Bustle & Sew Magazine Issue 167 December 2024

Page 1


A Bustle & Sew Publication

Copyright © Bustle & Sew Limited 2024

The right of Helen Grimes to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

First published 2024 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP

www.bustleandsew.com

WelcometotheDecemberMagazine

A very special welcome to this, the festive edition (and the last edition of 2024 - wherever did that year go?) of the Bustle & Sew Magazine.

Between the covers, as well as all the excitement of the season, there are some lovely stitching projects to offer you some more tranquil moments in the midst of the countdown to the “Big Day” itself. We look at the history of some decorations, consider the impact of AI on embroidery and bake very tasty mince pies as well as enjoy some Christmas and winter-themed projects. This is such a magical time to spend with friends and family, and the quiet “between time” between Christmas and New Year offers us all a much-needed moment to pause and rest, reflect or make resolutions and plans for the year ahead. (As well as indulge in some peaceful stitching times)

I hope you’ll enjoy this edition, and the January magazine will be published on Thursday 26 December, in four weeks time. Until then…

Very best wishes for a wonderful Christmas wherever you may be and whatever you are planning

Wishingyouavery merryChristmas

December

December is the month for good old-fashioned nostalgia and for making brand-new resolutions. The winter solstice, when the nights are longest and the sun appears above the horizon for the shortest time, usually falls on December 22 and is followed by Christmas Day three days later. But this wasn’t always the case.

When the calendar changed from the Julian to the new Gregorian in 1752 a total of eleven days was lost. Prior to this, Christmas was celebrated almost two weeks later in the winter. A confused Protestant population, still resentful that this change had come from Rome, waited to see if nature would adjust. People flocked to Glastonbury Hill, that rises above the Somerset Level, to see if the famed thorn tree would oblige by advancing its unique mid-winter flowering to the new date of Christmas Day.

Believed to have taken root from a staff thrust into the summit of the hill by Joseph of Arimathea, this legendary landmark of early Christendom in this country is botanically a genetic variant of our familiar hawthorn tree, quite possibly imported at some time from the Middle East where it would indeed flower in their mild midwinter. Over here it still produces some blossom and foliage at this time, and again in late April, the more familiar time for hawthorns to glower in this country. For many years after the national change of calendar, crowds would gather at Glastonbury wanting the thorn tree to give them a sign. Disappointingly it seldom produced flowers before 5 January - exactly eleven days late.

Over the last 250 years it seems that our seasons have shifted still further. Although past the shortest day, Christmas arrives too early for those who would love a white yuletide. True mid-winter, when snow and ice grip the countryside, now arrives in late January or February, if indeed it arrives at all.

Winter brings wildlife and people together. The cold and lack of food and shelter in the countryside brings many species into gardens and parklands and to the protection afforded by the buildings of towns and cities across the land.

ASongforChristmas…

Thiscaroloriginatedin France,butwasknownin Englandfromthetwelfth century,thoughthisisamore modernformofwords. The animalsinthestabletelltheir ownstoryoftheNativity….

“I”saidthedonkey,shaggyandbrown, “Icarriedhismotheruphillanddown; IcarriedhismothertoBethlehemtown.”

“I”saidthedonkey,shaggyandbrown.

“I”saidthecow,allwhiteandred

“Igavehimmymangerforhisbed; Igavehimmyhaytopillowhishead.”

“I”saidthecow,allwhiteandred.

“I”saidthesheepwithcurlyhorn, “Igavehimmywoolforblanketwarm;

HeworemycoatonChristmasmorn.”

“I”saidthesheepwithcurlyhorn.

“I”saidthedovefromtheraftershigh, “Icooedhimtosleepsohewouldnotcry; Wecooedhimtosleep,mymateandI.”

“I”saidthedovefromtheraftershigh.

Thuseverybeastbysomegoodspell

Inthestabledarkwasgladtotell OfthegifthegaveEmmanuel, ThegifthegaveEmmanuel.

TheHollyandtheIvy…

DecemberandJanuaryarethebaremonths. Ourgrandmothers,whentheycompiled theirfloralcalendar,couldnotfindaflowerforDecemberatallandtooktheholly berryinstead. Theirchoiceisunderstandable. Christmasandholly,hollyand Christmas. Whocouldthinkofonewithouttheother? ButDecemberhasitsown flower,theivy,whichtheyoverlooked.

Thisyearitisfloweringasneverbefore. Everywreathinggarlandinthewoodsand uponthehedgerowtreetrunksisthickwiththepale,mealyyellowcorymbs. Thereis aglamourabouttheivybloom. Itisoneofthoseflowersoneisnottaughttolove,but todiscoverforoneself. Inchildhood,itsimplydoesnotexistformostofus;wepassit yearafteryear,unseeing. Then,oneseason,ourattentionisdrawntoitbyaccident, andwelookcloser,andseehowexquisitelyfashionedthefloretsare,howbeautifully thegreenish-yellowclustersharmonizewiththedarkleaves;andeverywinterafterit meetsoureyewhereverwegoandmakesamildsunlightupongloomydays.

Floral Thompson: extracts from The Peverell Papers and other writings

Transferringyour DesigntoFabric

AGardener’sChristmas

IamverybusypreparingforChristmas,buthaveoftenlockedmyselfupina roomalone,shuttingoutmyunfinishedduties,tostudytheflowercatalogues andmakemylistsofseedsandshrubsandtreesforthespring. Itisafascinating occupation,andacquiresanadditionalcharmwhenyouknowyououghttobe doingsomethingelse,thatChristmasisatthedoor,thatchildrenandservants andfarmhandsdependonyoufortheirpleasure,andthat,ifyoudon’tseeto thedecorationofthetreesandhouse,andthebuyingofthepresents,nobody elsewill.

ThehoursflybyshutupwiththosecataloguesandwithDutysnarlingonthe othersideofthedoor. Idon’tlikeDuty-everythingintheleastdisagreeableis alwaysone’sduty. Whycannotitbemydutytomakelistsandplansforthe deargarden. “Andsoitis,”IinsistedtotheManofWrath,whenheprotested againstwhathecalledwastingmytimeupstairs. “No,”herepliedsagely; “yourgardenisnotyourDuty,becauseitisyourPleasure.”

From Elizabeth and her German Garden, 1898
Elizabeth van Arnim (1866-1941)

Old,vintageandnew …what’syourperfect seasonalcombination>

The headlong rush towards the shortest day is cheered by the prospect of Christmas and other festivities across the globe. The central heating is on, we’re wearing our big coats when we go out and about, and decided that, whether they’re in fashion this year or not, we’re definitely going to be wearing mittens too! The last of the leaves have lost their battle against cold, wind and rain this month, and frosts are beginning to become a regular occurrence. Autumn’s mellow fruitfulness has definitely given way to the chill of winter, but that doesn’t mean there’s a shortage of good local produce to enjoy.

The frosty weather means there’s not much point in trying to get outside to work in the vegetable garden, but as a bonus, many of the vegetables that have made it this far will happily sit tight, fresh and full of flavour, for the rest of the season. From my own Kitchen Garden we’re still enjoying parsnips, carrots, cabbages and sprouts, supplemented by turnips, swedes, celeriac and more from our local farm shop. And for Christmas, herbs that enhance the gravy, bay leaves to flavour the bread sauce, rosemary and thyme for stuffing. If we’re lucky, the chickens will still be laying a few eggs which will add

their golden richness to custards and tarts. Then we hope in years to come to have walnuts (our tree is still very small and young) to pass around after the meal, and I promise myself that one day I will have time to make fruit-flavoured gins and liqueurs, glowing jellies and spicy piquant chutneys in abundance to enjoy at this time of year - one day perhaps?

Clementines are also in season at this time of year and it has been suggested that clementines are used as an allegory for gold in medieval paintings of St Nicholas of Myra (the fourth century Christian bishop known for his generosity who was the basis for the legend of Santa Claus). It’s just as likely though that these vibrant seedless fruits just provide a welcome burst of zesty taste at a quiet time of year for our own fruits. Of course Clementines were once seen as a particularly exotic fruit in this country, and a rare treat for many of the population - a reminder perhaps of how the global food trade has changed the way we eat. Something that hasn’t changed of course is using up the leftovers from our Christmas lunch - and you’ll find some ideas to help you do this in the next few pages.

ParsnipTarte

Tatin

Ingredients

● 500g ready made puff pastry

● 50g butter

● 3 parsnips, trimmed, peeled and sliced lengthways

● 3 banana shallots, peeled and halved lengthways

● 2 tbspns honey

● 3 tbspns fresh thyme leaves plus extra for garnish

● 100g crème fraiche

● 30g wholegrain mustard

● Method

● Place the parsnips in a saucepan and cover them with boiling water. Bring to the boil, then allow them to simmer for 5 mins. Drain and set aside.

● Pre-heat your oven to 200C/gas mark 6.

● Place a 22cm ovenproof frying pan on the heat and add the butter. Once it has melted, add the shallots and drained parsnips, and fry for 4-5 mins until golden. Stir in the honey and thyme and season to taste. Remove the pan from the heat.

● Roll out your pastry to fit the top of the frying pan, then place on top of the parsnips in the pan and tuck in the sides. Bake for 20 mins until the pastry is golden. Allow to cool for 5 mins.

● Meanwhile make the sauce by mixing together the crème fraiche and wholegrain mustard.

● Place a serving plate on top of the frying pan and turn both over together so the tarte sits on the plate. Garnish with thyme and serve with the mustard crème fraiche.

You can make this with leftover roast parsnips too - simply add to the pan when the shallots are golden and warm gently before continuing.

“Iwillnormallyeatabout sevenoreightmincepiesinone sitting.Sometimes,Icangetto doublefigures.Myfriends,and probablymostpeople,stopat two,sotheyprobablydislike meabitforit.”

Tamsin Egerton

Countingdownthedays….

Christmasisaveryspecialtimeforchildren-anddoyourememberhowthedaysseemedtopassmoreand moreslowlyastheBigDaygrewcloser?SometimesitusedtofeelasthoughDecemberwasaslongasthewhole oftherestoftheyearputtogether!Thesedays,thereverseistrue-atleastforme-Decemberseemstorush pastateverincreasingspeed,especiallywhenI’mtryingtoco-ordinateallmyChristmaspreparations!

AfavouritewayforchildrentocountdowntothebigdayisforthemtoenjoyanAdventcalendar.Todaythese areavailableinallsortsofshapesandsizes,includingthosewhichincludeadailygift,perhapsasmall chocolate,super-enjoyableifeatenbreakfast,whichwouldn’tbeallowedatanyothertimeofyearofcourse! We’reallsousedtotheideaofAdventcalendars,thatwedon’tstoptothinkwheretheycamefrom.Infact theyoriginatedinGermanyinthenineteenthcentury.

ThefirsthandmadeAdventCalendarappearedinthe1850s,whilstthefirstprintedversionwaspublished between1900and1910-they’renotsoveryoldafterall.ButtheywereinstantlyseenasaVeryGoodIdeathat quicklycaughtonandspreadaroundtheworld.ButthenalongcameWorldWar2withitsassociatedpaper shortages,strictrationingandtherequirementforfactoryproductiontobeconcentratedonhelpingthewar effortratherthanproducingnon-essentialconsumeritems.

Adventcalendarsdisappearedfromsaleanddidn’treappearagainuntilthewarhadended.Myparentswere bothbroughtupduringthewarandsotheconceptsofshortages,rationingandrecyclingweresecondnatureto them.Thismeantthattheysimplywouldn’tentertainthethoughtofpurchasinganewAdventcalendarevery year.So,ratherthanbuyingnewIrememberthesamecalendarappearingthroughoutmychildhood,withthe cardboardwindowscarefullypushedbackintoplaceinthevainhopethattheywouldstayputforawhile-afar cryfromtoday’sversionsfilledwithallkindsofgoodies.

TheBalladeofChristmasGhosts

Betweenthemoonlightandthefire

Inwintertwilightslongago

Whatghostsweraisedforyourdesire

Tomakeyourmerrybloodrunslow! Howold,howgrave,howwisewegrow! NoChristmasghostcanmakeuschill, Savethosethattroupein,mournfulnow, Theghostsweallcanraiseatwill.

Thebeastscantalkinbarnandbyre

OnChristmasEve,oldlegendsknow, Asyearbyyeartheyearsretire, Wemenfallsilentthen,Itrow. Suchsightshavememorytoshow, Suchvoicesfromthesilencethrill, SuchshapesreturnwithChristmassnow; Theghostsweallcanraiseatwill.

Oh,childrenofthevillagechoir, Yourcarolsonthemidnightthrow! Oh!Brightacrossthemistandmire YeruddyhearthsofChristmasglow! Beatbackthedread,beatdownthewoe, Let’scheerilydescendthehill; Bewelcomealltocomeorgo, Theghostsweallcanraiseatwill!

Andrew Lang 1907

TheRoyalSchoolofNeedleworkwasfoundedin1872witha missiontopreservetheartofhandembroidery.

Tomarkits150thanniversarytheRSNlaunchedtheRSN StitchBanktocontinuethismission.

TheRSNStitchBankaimstodigitallyconserveandshowcase thewidevarietyoftheworld’sembroiderystitchesandthe waysinwhichtheyhavebeenusedindifferentculturesand times.

TheRSNStitchBankisanongoingprojectandnewstitches areaddedregularly.TheRSNwillbeworkingwithpartners aroundtheworldtoincludestitchesfromdifferenttraditions.

Everyyearwelosehistorictextilesthroughwear,age,andthemoreaggressiveroutesofwar,neglectand destruction.

Weknowthatstitchesfromhistoryhavebeenlostbecausetheyfalloutofuse.Then,whenanolder embroideredpieceisdiscovered,curatorsandmuseumstaffcannotrecognisethestitches.Textilesandthe knowledgeofstitchesthroughouttheworldcontinuetobethreatenedbywarsandotherdisturbances,aswell aschangesinmanufacturingprocesses.

StitcherscanusetheRSNStitchBanktofindanewstitchtouseinaprojectandlearnhowtomakeitusing videos,writteninstructions,illustrationsandphotographsforeachstitch.Researchers,curators,historians andstudentscanusethesitetolearnabouttheuse,structureandhistoryofeachstitchinarangeof embroiderytechniquesandtoidentifyastitchonatextile.

Youcanbrowsethestitchwallhere

Youcanalsocreateyourownfolderandsavethestitchesyouaremostinterestedin. Itisallcompletelyfree andanamazingresourceforstitchers!

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