Bustle & Sew Magazine Sampler Issue 112 May 2020

A (very) little history of knitting The Countryside in May and Country Diaries We’ll Gather Lilacs: A Little Look at the Lilac The Rainbow Colours of Felt Plus: May Almanac, Poetry Corner, Lovely Ideas, Tastes of the Season and more 1

A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2020 The right of Helen Challenor to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

First published 2020 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP www.bustleandsew.com

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Welcome to the May Magazine Hello everyone!

I began to assemble this issue of the magazine back in March, when the first sentence of this welcome would have read….”As you read this I will be beneath the hot skies of India enjoying our honeymoon, tigers and the Taj Mahal.” Sadly both our wedding and honeymoon had to be cancelled due to the current crisis and rather than beneath the hot skies of India, I am sitting typing this beneath the rather cloudy skies of Somerset. But still, our family is all well and safe at the moment, the garden is in bloom and Ted, our new young family member is settling in nicely, so there’s still plenty to be happy about!

There’s lots to enjoy between the covers this month too - I’m not sure if my favourite design is the “Don’t worry” hoop or “Our House” but I do know that as soon as the lockdown is lifted I will be off to support our local farmers’ market proudly carrying my Market Garden Tote Bag - I loved stitching the vegetable embroidery on the pocket.

I do hope you’ll enjoy this month’s issue - and who knows, perhaps the weather may even be warm and sunny enough for a little stitching in the garden!

Stay safe and well!

Helen xx

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Between this month’s covers …

May Almanac

Page 5

Market Garden Tote Bag

Page 41

Helston Furry Dance

Page 7

Tastes of the Season: May

Page 44

Be Happy Floral Hoop

Page 8

Three Cactus Cushions

Page 54

Lovely Idea: Fabric Covered Flower Pots

Page 13

Nature Notes: The Horse Chestnut

Page 58

Walk on the Wild Side

Page 14

We’ll Gather Lilacs

Page 59

A (very) Little Guide to Vintage Fabrics

Page 16

We’ll Gather Lilacs Hoop

Page 63

A Country Diary

Page 17

Embroidery Stitch Guide

Page 65

Sewing Machine Cover

Page 18

In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables

Page 66

A Rainbow of Felt

Page 21

Templates

Page 67

The Countryside in May

Page 24

Nature Notes: The Swallow

Page 27

“Our House” Hoop

Page 28

A (very) Little Guide to Embroidery Tools

Page 31

Home Pictures in May

Page 34

A Little History of Knitting

Page 35

The Customs of May

Page 37

Sumer is icumen in

Page 40

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May The coming of May has always been a time for celebration. If we welcome the warm weather now, with all the comfort of our centrally heated homes and thermal clothing to keep us snug during the winter months, then think how much more eagerly the month was welcomed when the only source of heating in a cottage would have been an open fire, and possibly a cooking range, around which drenched heavy woollen clothing and leather boots had to be dried out.

If not at the beginning of the month then certainly by its end it’s warm enough to sit outside in the garden enjoying the sights and scents as all around flowers are coming into bloom.

The evenings are lengthening daily and at dusk the swooping flight of swallows and house martins is replaced by the fluttering of bats hunting for insects in the night air. Swifts have also arrived after their long migration from their wintering grounds in Africa, and their characteristic screaming calls announce their presence as they wheel and dive

overhead.

These birds are astonishing aeronauts since, apart from the breeding season, they remain constantly airborne, even when sleeping!

In the sixteenth century it was still customary for the middle and humbler classes to go forth at an early hour of the morning, in order to gather flowers and hawthorn branches, which they brought home about sunrise, with accompaniments of horn and tabor, and all possible signs of joy and merriment. With these spoils they would decorate every door and window in the village. By a natural transition of ideas, they gave to the hawthorn bloom the name of the May; they called this ceremony “the bringing home the May;” they spoke of the expedition to the woods as “going-a-Maying.”

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It’s impossible to ignore our other garden birds this month, even supposing you wanted to, as by May the dawn chorus is at its peak with our resident birds joined by the migrants returning from their wintering grounds. Birds sing to defend their territory and to attract a mate. They put most effort into singing before the daylight fully arrives because the sound of birdsong will travel further on the still, quiet air and also because it isn’t light enough yet for them to begin their daily search for food.

Many birds are now coaxing their broods out of the nest and into the world - and it’s fun to watch them trying out their wings with wobbly test flights from bush to bush, zig-zagging across the garden.

They still can’t feed themselves though and their poor harassed parents have to work even harder to feed their scattered offspring until they finally become selfsufficient - when if the conditions are right, the parents may raise a second or even third brood of chicks during the summer months.

Bluebells are a commonplace sight across most of the UK in late April and early May, but globally these flowers are fairly scarce with a restricted range in those countries that border Europe’s Atlantic seaboard: north-west Spain, France, the Low Countries, Ireland and of course ourselves. Indeed our mild, damp climate supports more than half the total world population of this beautiful intense blue flower. Bluebells are a classic indicator species of ancient woodland, and have attracted a wide range of folk names, including fairy bells, bellflower, wild hyacinth and fairy thimble. The English bluebell is under threat though from hybridisation with a nonnative species, the Spanish bluebell. This is a popular garden flower that has spread into the wild where it crossbreeds with our native bluebells. These hybrids have taller, straighter stems and the flowers don’t droop in the same way as those of the native variety. They also have a less powerful scent.

Along the hedgerows now, the hawthorn is coming gloriously into bloom, creating billowing ribbons of may blossom as far as the eye can see. This beautiful event actually has its origins in our social history. The lines of white blossom mark what little remains of the 200,000 miles of hedgerows planted in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

The Enclosure Acts of that time created much of the patchwork of fields

and hedges that we recognise today as the quintessential English countryside - and hawthorn was its mainstay.

Quick-growing, tenacious, and covered in thorns, the tree was ideal to form part of a hedge intended to contain livestock and mark ownership.

May 19 is St Dunstan’s Day. Born here in Somerset in the early tenth century Dunstan studied at Glastonbury Abbey and became abbot there in 945.

“May brings with her the beauty and fragrance of hawthorn blossoms and the song of the nightingale. Our old poets delighted in describing her as a beautiful maiden, clothed in sunshine, and scattering flowers on the earth, while she danced to the music of birds and brooks. She has given a rich greenness to the young corn, and the grass is now tall enough for the flowers to play at hide and seek among, as they are chased by the wind. The grass also gives a softness to the dazzling white of the daisies and the glittering gold of the buttercups.”

Chambers Book of Days (1864) He is the patron saint of goldsmiths and his emblem is a pair of metalworker’s tongs. According to Devonshire legend he was also a keen brewer of beer who made a pact with the Devil to ensure the destruction of the apple crop on which his rivals, the cider makers,

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depended. In exchange for St Dunstan’s soul, the Devil agreed to blight the apple trees with frost on 17, 18 and 19 May at the height of their blossoming.

The US feminist, Amelia Jenks Bloomer was born on 27 May 1818.

She was a champion of women’s rights and the temperance movement, who is today primarily remembered for her contribution to the vocabulary of women’s underwear, her married surname being the origin of the word “bloomers which came to describe baggy, long-legged women’s knickers. The original garment favoured by Amelia (though not actually designed by her) was a pair of loose-fitting trousers, gathered at the ankle, which she wore as a gesture of equality with men.

And finally, the end of the month, May 29, brings Oak Apple Day commemorating the restoration of King Charles II to the British throne on 29 May 1660. The oak being celebrated was the one in which Charles had hidden for a whole day after losing a battle against the Commonwealth troopers in 1651.

For many years the anniversary of the Restoration was celebrated by the wearing of oak leaves or oak apples, and those who failed to display such a symbol were often pinched or kicked by way of punishment. Oak Apple Day is still marked in some towns by the carrying of oak branches in procession or the placing of an oak wreath on a statue of Charles II.

The Helston Furry Dance As I walked home on a summer night When stars in heav’n were shining bright Far away from the footlight’s glare Into the sweet and scented air Of a quaint old Cornish town Borne from afar on the gentle breeze Joining the murmur of the summer seas Distant tones of an old world dance Played by the village band perchance On the calm air came floating down I thought I could hear the curious tone Of the cornet, clarinet and big trombone Fiddle, cello, big bass drum Bassoon, flute and euphonium Far away as in a trance I heard the sound of the Floral Dance And soon I heard such a bustling and prancing And then I saw the whole village was dancing In and out of the houses they came Old folk, young folk, all the same In that quaint old Cornish town.

Song written by musician and composer Katie Moss in 1911. Perhaps the most famous version is that released by the late Sir Terry Wogan in 1978.

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Look!

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a lovely idea Fabric Covered Flower Pots

This is such a great idea for using up scrap fabric, and giving those ugly plastic plant pots a new lease of life too. Thanks so much to Kimberley Coffin of Sweet Red Poppy for sharing with us.

Free from Sweet Red Poppy : Fabric Covered Flower Pots 9

On the Wild Side ..

Cuddly Sock Sheep

Go foraging for wild garlic this spring 10

One of our favourite walks in Devon was along the River Avon at Loddiswell following the line of the old railway track - long since disappeared under Beeching’s cuts of the 1960’s. If we went at the right time of year the air would be full of a rather pungent smell - that of wild garlic, otherwise known as ransoms or wood garlic, bear leek or bear's garlic – is a wild relative of chives native to Europe and Asia. which, along with perhaps the better-known bluebells, carpets our English woodlands at this time of year.

The plant is very easy to identify by its smell, whilst its broad strap-like leaves leaves have the same delicious combination of sweetness and astringency that make leeks, onions, spring onions, chives and bulb garlic so useful in the kitchen. You’re unlikely to confuse it with poisonous Lily of the Valley, Lords and Ladies ad Dog’s Mercury that like to grow alongside the wild garlic, but do take care when picking not to include any of these rogue leaves by mistake. Always wash your haul carefully when you get home and remove any leaves that lack the distinctive pungent garlicky aroma.

Although edible, the bulbs of the wild garlic plant are usually too small to be of much use.

The pretty white flowers however, are perfectly edible although their opening is a sign that the plant is maturing when the flavour of the leaves becomes more bitter and the texture is tougher. The young leaves have by far the best flavour and at this time of year, when wild garlic is at its peak, you are more likely to find delicious tight buds than open flowers.

An added bonus is that wild garlic, like its cultivated relatives, is extremely good for you as well as delicious is an added boon. Eaten raw the leaves are at their most pungent and fiery, but they come into their own when cooked. In fact they are almost endlessly

versatile: quickly blanched or wilted in olive oil they make a delicately garlicky alternative to spinach (but bear in mind they perform the same trick that spinach does of turning a carrier bag stuffed full of leaves into a measly side portion for two).

You can also try drying the leaves and adding them to sea salt in your salt mill - a delicious alternative to commercially produced garlic salt. This combination will keep for ages and is wonderful sprinkled onto that other spring dish of roast lamb accompanied by a few new potatoes. The flowers can be used to make your healthy salad look super-pretty too!

The season for wild garlic leaves is short – they're gone by June – but they are one of the most abundant wild foods. Even so, it’s good practise as with all wild plants and fruits to take only what you will be able to use, leaving plenty behind for wildlife and other people.

And remember that it’s illegal to dig up a wild plant without the landowner’s permission.

Wild Garlic Pesto ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

120g/4oz wild garlic leaves, blanched 1 garlic clove, peeled and grated 20g/¾oz pine nuts, toasted 200ml/7fl oz olive oil ½ lemon, zest only 30g/1oz parmesan cheese, grated salt and pepper

For the wild garlic pesto, pick and wash the wild garlic leaves and blanch the leaves in a pan of boiling water for 30 seconds. Refresh in a bowl of ice-cold water. Squeeze out the excess water and roughly chop. Add the leaves, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, lemon zest and grated parmesan to the food processor and blend. Season with salt and pepper.

A (very) Little Guide to Reclaiming Vintage Fabrics Lovely pieces of old lace, monograms and vintage name tags of nobody knows who any more are great for embellishments, whilst embroidered flowers, snippets of ribbon and even the tiniest scraps of pretty fabrics can all be hoarded against future need.

You’ll be extremely lucky to find unused vintage fabric, either by the yard or still on the bolt, but are more likely to need to repurpose and recycle old curtains, clothes or other made up fabric items. Searching out and salvaging whatever you can is definitely the way to go.

You’ll probably find that vintage fabrics are best used for smaller projects that only need small pieces of cloth, as many vintage items are likely to have holes, tears or marks that cannot be removed - which again is likely to make them much more reasonably priced. If you’re looking for knitted or woven fabrics, try hunting down old jumpers (natural fibres are great for felting too) and tweed or woollen jackets and skirts. Cut them up carefully and you may be able to use some of the stitched features such as finished edges and buttonholes in some of your projects.

For bigger projects old linens, blankets and curtains offer the largest pieces of fabric. Again, wash them well before beginning to work with them and cut out any marks or areas to worn to use. Sites such as eBay are great for vintage blankets - which are often cheaper to purchase in the summer months when they are less in demand than in the winter.

Finally, don’t forget your own and your family’s cast-offs.

Pretty dresses and well-washed shirts, shrunken knitwear or old velvet skirts - today’s fashion is tomorrow’s vintage. Scour the rails of charity shops too - there may be some amazing finds that have only had one careful owner in a store near you!

Old fabrics may not be as colour-fast as modern equivalents, so be careful how you launder them. You can unpick the seams of clothes, but my preference is to cut alongside all the seams to produce usable flat pieces of fabric. Use pinking shears to stop fraying.

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A Country Diary This is a very busy day as we are going to have a party this evening something larger than usual. We had four to dinner and about fifty or sixty in the evening. The plan of manageing these parties are thus: - there are two men besides myself one opened the door and let the Company in, I shewed them into a parlour where there was three maidservants to make tea and give it to them and take off their cloaks and bonnets, and the other man shewed them up into the drawingroom and gave in their names as lowd as he can bawl in the drawing room. There is very good singing and music in their way. After they have been here some time we carrey them up some refreshments on trays and hand about amongst them. This is all kinds of sweet cakes and biscuits, lemonade, ashet, negros, orangade and many other pleasant drinks, but the best is the different kinds of ices. This is stuff made of ice pounded, mixed with cream and juice of strawberrey ,some of apricot and oranges - in short, there are many different kinds.

It’s quite as cold as eating ice alone. It’s eat out of glass saucers with a spoon. It’s from ten to sixteen shillings a quart, it depends upon what fruit it’s mad eof. The company comes jeneraly about ten or eleven o’clock and stays until one or two in the morning. Sweet hearting matches are very often made up at these parties.

Born in 1807, Tayler grew up on a farm in Grafton, Oxfordshire. He was the first of his family to go into gentlemen’s service and, at the beginning of 1837, decided to keep a diary, to practise his writing: “As I am a wretched bad writer, many of my friends have advised me to practise more, to do which I have made many attempts but allways forgot or got tired so that it was never atended to. I am now about to write a sort of journal, to note down some of the chief things that come under my observation each day.”

Felt: All the Colours of the Rainbow

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The Great British Cake

Cake baking has enjoyed something of a revival in recent years with the popularity of programmes such as The Great British Bake Off. Whether you’re stirring a classic Victoria Sandwich, melting chocolate for shortbreads or chopping cherries for a delicious rock cake these teatime treats are as popular now as they were when they were first served - often a century or more ago.

The idea of making something absolutely delicious out of basic store cupboard ingredients continues to be irresistible, and an affordable luxury for most of us.

in either camp - is a Lardy Cake (a fruity kind of bun made with lard) actually a cake or a bread for instance? They are made with yeasted bread dough, but mixing the lard with the sugar makes a kind of delicious toffee layer - very unlike your average loaf! The Welsh speciality, Bara Brith, is the cause of a similar dilemma as it can be made in two ways, one with yeast and the other with self-raising flour.

The direct translation is “speckled bread” but the loaf itself is moist and sweet the classic end of the week cake that used up anything sweet in the larder.

Depending on whereabouts in the country you are, your traditional cake could be anything from a Lincolnshire Hopper to a Lancashire Eccle, a London Bun or a Yorkshire Fat Rascal, all local specialities that have evolved over time. Cakes are indeed a window into the kitchens of the past! Our modern cakes, with their sweet, soft and spongy texture are less than 300 years old, but the word cake, or “kaka” is much older and used to describe sweetened breads, made with honey, fruit, nuts and spices. The addition of eggs and imported sugar in the eighteenth century and raising agents like bicarbonate of soda, along with the development of modern kitchen ranges in the nineteenth century led to a cake baking revolution and the development of the cake as we know it today.

Before frosted and decorated cupcakes crossed the Atlantic, the traditional British sweet treat was the bun - again every region had its speciality - think of Bath Buns, Pembrokeshires, Chelsea Buns and more. Georgian and Victorian London would have echoed to the cries of bun sellers offering their wares. First created in the 1700s by the Hands family at the Bun House in Pimlico Road near Sloane Square, the swirly-topped Chelsea Bun became popular after it was favoured by the Hanoverian Royal Family. Modern day Chelsea buns are quite light and fluffy, but the earlier versions would have been more like rock cakes or scones.

While all cake recipes have their roots in early breadmaking techniques, some still keep a foot

As kitchen equipment continued to improve through the nineteenth century, the Victorian era saw bakers and housewives inventing a huge variety of cakes, buns and biscuits. One of the most iconic was the Victoria Sponge, or Sandwich, famously invented for

Queen Victoria and the archetypal British cake. It’s most often associated with the WI, with a class dedicated to the recipe included in most fairs and competitions.

The “creaming method” when the sugar and softened butter is beaten until fluffy and light, and the eggs and flour are folded in separately is considered to be the most perfect method, though Mary Berry’s allin-one approach is the one that we favour here at Bustle & Sew HQ. The Battenburg cake was also said to have been created in honour of Queen Victoria, and in particular the marriage of her granddaughter to Prince Louis of Battenberg with the four brightly coloured squares representing the four princes - Louis, Alexander, Henry and Francis Joseph.

But not all cakes have retained their popularity over the years.

Seed cakes made with caraway seeds are now almost forgotten, as is the eggless Vinegar Cake, created during the Second World War and made to rise by the magic of milk, vinegar and bicarbonate of soda!

Whatever our favourite may be, it seems unlikely that our love for a sweet teatime treat will fade any time soon. For many of us they’re a sweet childhood memory, and recall the comforting presence of our mothers and grandmothers.

They help mark birthdays and weddings and form a special part of our family history. And the act of baking itself can give a great sense of achievement, brightening up your day.

We’ll Gather Lilacs

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We'll gather lilacs in the spring again And walk together down a British lane Until our hearts have learned to sing again When you come home once more And in the evening by the firelight's glow You'll hold me close and never let me go Your eyes will tell me all I long to know When you come home once more Although you're far away And life is sad and grey I have a scheme; a dream to try I'm thinking dear, of you And all I mean to do When we're together, you and I We'll soon forget our care and pain And find such lovely things to share again We'll gather lilacs in the spring again And walk together down a British lane Until our hearts have learned to sing again When you come home once more And in the evening by the firelight's glow You'll hold me close and never let me go Your eyes will tell me all I want to know When you come home once more

A Little Look at the Lilac Lilacs have a deep rooted history originating in ancient Greek mythology. It was said that Pan, the god of forests and fields was hopelessly in love with a nymph named Syringa. One day he was pursuing her through a forest and, afraid of his advances, she turned herself into a lilac shrub to disguise herself. To Pan’s surprise, he could not find Syringa, but he did find the shrub.

Because a lilac shrub consists of hollow reeds, he cut the reeds and created the first pan pipe. The scientific name for lilac is Syringa vulgaris, and the name is derived from the Greek word “syrinks” which means pipe.

White : purity and innocence.

The common name, lilac, was borrowed from the French and Spanish word of the same name. Similarly, the Arabic word for this flower is “lilak”. The word lilac refers to the light purple color of its flowers.

During the Victorian Age, the giving of a lilac was meant to be a reminder of an old love. In fact, widows were often seen wearing lilacs during this period.

Violet :spirituality.

Blue :happiness and tranquility.

Magenta : love and passion.

Lilac, the colour for which this flower is named, is a light purple that symbolizes a first love. .The Celtics regarded the lilac as “magical” due to their incredibly intoxicating fragrance.

In Russia, holding a sprig of lilac over the newborn would bring wisdom.

Because lilacs bloom early in the year they’ve often been considered to symbolize spring and renewal.

Additionally, the different colours of lilac have different meanings in the language of flowers:

In the United States, the lilac is the official state flower of New Hampshire and represents the ‘hardy’ nature of its people.

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A (very) Little Guide to Caring for your Handmade Quilt ● Wash your quilt rather than having it dry cleaned.

The chemicals used in dry cleaning are too harsh for the thread and fabrics typically used. ● Always wash your handmade quilt in warm or cold water using the delicate cycle on your washing machine. The individual blocks may be made up of slightly different fabrics which will shrink differently. Also, the vibrant colours may fade over time if the water is too hot. ● Use a gentle laundry detergent. An inexpensive alternative to special "quilt wash" crystals is baby shampoo. ● Spin using the gentle cycle. If you need to remove excess water, roll the quilt in an old blanket or large towels placed side by side before putting it into the dryer. ● Always use the low setting on your dryer. It is okay to hang your quilt outside for a short period of time, or you can spread it out flat to finish drying. Make sure it is completely dry before folding or storing. ● When you store your handmade quilt in a closet or drawer, if you feel the need to wrap it up in something, use tissue paper rather than a plastic bag. Storing it in a plastic bag for a long period of time may result in yellowing and discoloration.

● Be especially careful not to store your quilt in a place where there could be a problem with bugs or moths causing damage. Some brands of fabric softener sheets have been credited with repelling these pests. In addition, the fabric softener sheet will keep it smelling fresh. A cedar chest - cedar is a natural moth repellant - is an ideal storage place. ● By all means, display your lovely handmade quilt but do make sure that it isn’t exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time. This will eventually cause fading and deterioration of the delicate fabrics. ● Don't be afraid to use your handmade quilt. The layers and the warmth of the batting make it perfect for keeping you warm cold winter nights. ● Refold your quilt every few months. If it is folded the same way for long periods of time, the batting will become permanently creased and thinner where it is folded. A lovely handmade quilt is something you can show off with pride. It should be used, displayed and enjoyed. However, the many hours spent in its creation would be wasted if it became shabby due to lack of proper care.

Looking after your quilt well will ensure that it lasts a lifetime and may be passed down to your children and even your grandchildren.