Buyer A/W 2017-18 (English)

A / W

2 017-18

A R M A N D H A D I DA A u t u m n / W i n t e r 2 017-18 : s t r a t e g i e s , t r e n d s , c o l l e c t i o n s , d e s i g n e r s

SEBASTIAN JONDEAU Personal Assistent to Karl Lagerfeld photographed by Karl Lagerfeld

SHOWROOM MOSCOW Mobil: +79645080046 eMail: svetlana.novikova@karl-lagerfeld.de

www.seamoremoscow.com seamoremoscow

BUYER

CONTENTS

80 14

FASHION NEWS The latest from the fashion industry

20

ARMAND HADIDA The legendary French buyer shares his thoughts on the future of fashion retail

26

LILY-ROSE DEPP Passionate about cinema and Chanel

DESIGNERS 32

36

DELPOZO Josep Font on striking the perfect balance between tradition and innovation WOMENSWEAR TRENDS Checks and padded coats for all occasions 8

38

ERDEM Erdem Moralioglu on strong women and future plans

42

WORN A young Swiss brand and its timeless bags

48

DETAILS The newest accessories for an on-point look

50

SEAMORE The label that made versatility its trademark feature

52

MADE IN GEORGIA Three promising designers from the country that gave us Demna Gvasalia

58

YOUNG TALENTS Three emerging designers on their way to the top

68

MENSWEAR TRENDS For everyone from free-spirited artists to no-nonsense businessmen

72

TOMBOLINI Menswear classics with a fresh twist

80

BUYER’S WORD Buyers on their best-selling clothes and their favourite autumn 2017 collections

BUYER

CONTENTS 98

LIFESTYLE STORE The Dreslyn online specialty store: horoscope included

102 LET THERE BE LIGHT NLT on how to light the way for your store’s success 104

SHOWROOMS Major European showrooms and the secrets of their success

EVENTS 114

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK In the eco mood: reports from Scandinavia’s leading fashion week

116

FASHION WEEKS Reviews and dates of the main fashion events

118

SHOWS A new generation of designers conquers the catwalks

122

EXHIBITIONS Your complete guide to this spring’s exhibitions dates

128

TRANOI Top tips for buyers on one of the biggest fashion trade shows

130

PITTI UOMO Highlights of the 91st edition

ECOMMERCE Kick Pleat on the importance of being first

132

CAPSULE Six trade shows on both sides of the Atlantic

THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION New opportunities for Russian boutiques

134

THE BEST LUXURY STORES The awards ceremony report

114 STRATEGIES 88

THE MIDDLE EAST Etoile Group’s fashion empire

90

SHOPPING LIVE The Grayson Company advises on using digital technologies in the brickand-mortar world

92

96

10

11

BUYER

BUYER A/W 2017-18 F/ W

2 017-18

№ 3 February 2017

B u y e r • F/ W 2 0 17- 1 8

Editor in chief Marina Bugranova

CONTACTS

Direttore responsabile Michela Zio Executive editor Galia Milovzorova A R M A N D H A D I DA A u t u m n / W i n t e r 2 017-18 : s t r a t e g i e s , t r e n d s , c o l l e c t i o n s , d e s i g n e r s

Armand Hadida Photo Lior Susana Photo assistant Dan Spigelman, Misato Matsuo

Fashion editor Anastasia Khvatova Art director Lior Susana

For advertising inquiries Commercial director Asya Tatevosyan asya@buyer.world For editorial and other inquiries Administrative director Maria Sakharchuk maria@buyer.world Publishing house Alate Media s.r.l.

P.Iva 08307120967

Graphic designer Daria Elagina

Via Mauro Macchi, 65, 20124 Milan

Copy editors Jen Rouse Laura Hayward Maya Svetlova

www.buyer.world

Translators Anastasia Statueva Andrey Shumilov Contributors Alisa Nesterova Marta Topolskaya Tatiana Rosenstein Natalia Melyukh

Registration № 249, 19.07.13, tribunal of Milan Print Radin print d.o.o.

Gospodarska 9, HR 10431 Sveta Nadelja

12

WEB

tranoi.com

TWITTER

BUYER

CREATED WITH SOUL Some of the most bold and memorable companies are the ones that reflect the vision and individuality of their creators. Preparing this issue once again reminded me of this simple truth, seeing charismatic people who successfully express themselves and their unique personalities in their work. The buyers sharing their passion for their jobs in this issue are Armand Hadida, founder of LECLAIREUR and art-director of Tranoi, Ingie Chalhoub, who created the fashion empire Etoile in the Middle East and Wendi Koletar Martin, founder of American online store Kick Pleat.

For this issue we’ve continued selecting promising designers from all over the world, starting with young designers from Georgia and travelling through to talented producers of accessories from Spain to Korea. Delpozo and Erdem, who’ve already achieved international success, tell us about their unique approaches to creating collections and the models that brought their brands to where they are.

The companies created by this issue’s protagonists are different from the majority. They don’t fit everyone, aiming instead towards the like-minded individuals who share their taste and interests. To find and realise your vision, and to artfully place it in the market are the two key aspects of building an amazing business. On these pages we’ve collected ideas that balance between proven and tested knowledge, and creativity — the reason why all of us chose to work in fashion.

M.Bugranova

Marina Bugranova Buyer and editor in chief

14

BUYER

FASHION NEWS No to couture The executives of Versace, the Italian luxury brand, have decided to hold fewer fashion shows per year and to discontinue the Atelier Versace show, which takes place during the Haute Couture Week in Paris. According to their chief executive officer, Jonathan Akeroyd, the discontinuation of the couture program has nothing to do with finances, but is instead a response to the stress experienced by the Versace design team in having to arrange eight shows a year. Only six shows are left now, and the catwalk will be replaced by the red carpet show, where Atelier Versace outfits have long been immensely successful.

New age for Chloé Chloé, the Paris fashion house so beloved by bohemian fashion lovers, also has some changes coming. As the Englishwoman Clare Waight Keller decided not to renew her contract for personal reasons, the autumn collection featured in Paris this March will be her final one as creative director of the brand. However, the internet is already abuzz with rumours of her possible successor. Business of Fashion, a resource of authority, has their money on Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Nicolas Ghesquière’s right hand, who has worked with him in Balenciaga and in Louis Vuitton. Chloé has not officially confirmed this yet.

Reed Krakoff, the designer best known for working as creative director for Coach, joined the Tiffany & Co. team on February 1. Together with its design director Francesca Amfitheatrof leaving, this appointment is expected to usher in a new era in the history of the cult American brand, increasing its sales in the USA, strengthening its position globally, and appealing to a younger generation of customers. As artistic director, Krakoff will be responsible not only for designing Tiffany & Co.’s jewellery and accessories but also for marketing, online sales and designing its brand boutiques.

16

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

Tiffany rings the changes

BUYER

FASHION NEWS

Protective steps PETA, the world-famous animal rights organisation, has bought a share in Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), hoping to influence the brands that make up the corporation and to restrict sales of bags, footwear and other products made of exotic animal leather. PETA is particularly concerned about the state of affairs at several crocodile farms in Vietnam which supply raw materials for a number of brands in LVMH’s portfolio. The precise amount of the shares now belonging to the animal protectors is unknown, but it is certainly large enough for their owners to attend shareholder meetings and submit the matters in question for consideration, and thus affect the decision-making process.

Fashion in Toronto The July 2016 Toronto Fashion Week might have been called off, but here is some news that Canadian designers will love: it’s back on. The shows will begin on March 9, right after Paris Fashion Week, and run until March 14. The new development strategy centres around digital support, live show broadcasts, and a competition of young designers, powered by the Toronto Fashion Incubator. The winner of the competition will have an opportunity to present their future collection at the Toronto Fashion Week, with all organisational costs covered by the Toronto Fashion Incubator.

Marni’s debut show The men’s fashion week that took place in January was particularly full of excitement for designer Francesco Risso, as he presented his debut collection for Marni. Readers will remember Consuelo Castiglioni, its founder and designer since the very beginning, left the company last year. Despite these very significant changes in Marni’s management, the new collection retained the brand’s distinctive style and humour, although it was not so avant-garde as those from Consuelo’s times. With all the geometric prints that you would expect from Marni, plus a bright colour palette and dense fabrics, Risso also made an effort to attract a new, younger audience.

18

FEBRUARY 25.26.27, 2017 W

O

M

E

N

’

S

C O L L E C T I O N S

+

A C C E S S O R I E S

F A L L

O U R

con il patrocinio di

W I N T E R

1 7 | 1 8

L O C A T I O N S

FOLLOW US WWW.WHITESHOW.IT

WHITESHOW

WHITESHOWOFFICIAL

WHITESHOW

BUYER

FASHION NEWS A new CEO for Burberry Diane von Furstenberg rebranded

This July, Christopher Bailey is to leave his office as chief executive officer of the British Burberry Group to be replaced by Italian businessman Marco Gobbetti. However, Burberry won’t be losing Bailey altogether, as he will be stepping up to his new role as president of the company, while also retaining his post as the chief creative officer. As for Gobbetti, his portfolio includes working for Bottega Veneta (1984–1989), Moschino (1993–2004) and Givenchy. Before he was appointed at Burberry in 2016, the Italian fashion veteran also worked at Céline together with Phoebe Philo.

The designer Jonathan Saunders, appointed as creative director for Diane von Furstenberg, continues to ring the changes in this American fashion house. This time, DVF’s logo, monogram and corporate colours have all been rebranded. As Saunders reveals, the new promotional campaign will not be centred on the image of a model but will be based on using the logo against a background of corporate colours which will change from season to season. Three key colours were chosen for this spring: red, yellow and blue. The combination of these colours and graphic elements will be featured in labels, merchandising and products, and in the promotional campaign.

Back in the USSR To launch his autumn collection, Gosha Rubchinskiy has invited fashion lovers to Kaliningrad. Having been a German town before World War II, it’s the perfect venue for the designer to showcase the fruits of his cooperation with Adidas, the German sport corporation. They will be working together until the FIFA World Cup in 2018, which will take place in several Russian cities. Sport is a key theme for the Gosha Rubchinskiy Autumn 2017 collection. Sporty trousers with Adidas’ legendary three-stripe design, T-shirts with inscriptions, raincoats and suits: everything that makes up the wardrobe of an ordinary football player from a typical Russian city.

20

Maria Grazia Chiuri on the jury for LVMH Prize The jury for the prestigious young fashion designers’ competition, held with support of the LVMH corporation, has been joined by Maria Grazia Chiuri from Dior. The LVMH Prize is a unique competition. Young designers apply online, and the jury of experts chooses the winner out of over 1,000 contestants.

Besides Chiuri, the jury boasts Karl Lagerfeld, Jonathan Anderson, Nicolas Ghesquière and other designers and journalists. The winner gets a cash prize of €300,000 and 12 months of personal support to develop the company they set up.

BUYER

High society

The height of popularity

Two newcomers have joined the elite circle of brands entitled to call themselves haute couture fashion houses. Schiaparelli and Julien Fournié bring the total up to 15 now. Other members include veterans Chanel and Christian Dior, and more recent additions Alexander Vauthier and Alexis Mabille. The decision to admit Schiaparelli and Julien Fournié to this elite society was taken by the French Federation of Couture, based on three strict conditions: every outfit must be handmade, the brand must have studios in France, and they must hold two haute couture shows each year.

Search engine Google has summed up its statistics and revealed the most popular search queries submitted by internet users.

The top fashion-related queries are not the designers who presented the best dresses, but rather those noticed for their star profiles and scandals. So, the top ten queries include Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Kanye West, Beyoncé, the singer Zendaya, and Ivanka Trump. The very top one searched for is the designer Rachel Roy, all because of the rumours that she was the other woman Beyoncé refers to in her songs about her husband cheating on her. Users also googled Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, actresses who became successful designers, and Sonia Rykiel, who died in 2016.

Carven revitalised From February 1 when he takes up his new appointment, Swiss designer Serge Ruffieux is set to return Paris fashion house Carven to its former glory. Ruffieux has closely worked with Sonia Rykiel and Raf Simons. When the latter left Christian Dior to be replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Ruffieux was head of the legendary fashion house for two years alongside Lucie Meier, even producing his own fashion collection. He is now starting on a new, independent chapter in his career. His debut for Carven will be a lookbook for the Cruise 2018 collection, which we are going to see showcased for the Spring/Summer 2018 season at Paris Fashion Week this October.

Simkhai’s sporting success Jonathan Simkhai, the young and promising American designer, winner of the CFDA/Fashion Fund Awards and a favourite of the Kardashian and Jenner sisters, has created a collection together with Carbon38, a popular brand of sport clothes. As expected, the results are brilliant. The 16 co-created items include flounced sport jackets, leggings with lacing, jackets with puff sleeves and other stylish pieces that blur the distinction between fashion and sport clothes. The collection is already on sale, with items priced from $125 to $465.

The magic touch Kevin Kerrigan, ex-global creative director for CK Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein White Label spent 18 years creating those legendary CK jeans, but now he’s joined American fashion house Ralph Lauren. He’ll take up the roles of senior vice president and creative director, working his magic on their women’s range and on Chaps, their sport line.

21

BUYER

‘IT’S TIME FOR A REVOLUTION IN BOUTIQUES’ BUYER TALKS OVER THE FUTURE OF OFFLINE RETAIL WITH ARMAND HADIDA, ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST INFLUENTIAL BUYERS, THE OWNER OF LECLAIREUR CONCEPT STORES AND THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF THE TRANOÏ TRADE SHOW INTERVIEW: Alisa Nesterova PHOTO: Lior Susana

How would you explain the success of LECLAIREUR? I’d say LECLAIREUR is a success because each of our shops has a distinct style, design and set of goods.

We don’t want customers to feel that if they’ve seen one, they’ve seen ‘em all. Quite the opposite: we give shoppers a reason to visit each boutique because there’s a new hidden gem to be unearthed in every one of them.

wander around the ground floor and occasionally enter one of the fragrance stores you find there, because I like it when you open the doors and the aromas carry you to a dream world.

But I will never go to the upper floors – there are too many things there, too many options. As I see it, today’s customers need more space in the shops, which requires different merchandising strategies.

The selection of brands in your shops has always set LECLAIREUR apart. How do you decide what to include in your stock and who does the buying?

My wife, Martine, helps me. She takes responsibility for womenswear, and I am responsible for menswear. We also have an assistant, which makes three of us.

When we just started we made a point of bringing our customers something special, something singular, something not to be found anywhere else. We travel a lot looking for lesser-known fashion exhibitions, remarkable showrooms and talented designers. So essentially we are searching for something new and unseen in the Parisian and French markets. This was how we conceived the idea of Tranoï, as a place where we could present budding brands and bring new names to buyers. Buyers must always be on the move and constantly on the lookout. I visit European cities regularly and I’m also often in Asia, visiting cities like Shanghai, Tokyo and Seoul.

In your shops you sell design pieces along with clothes.

Was this concept easy to implement?

It wasn’t easy at first. The customers took a while to get used to these pieces being part of our stock, rather than mere elements of design. Many of them couldn't understand how you could mix fashion and design.

But fashion is one of many manifestations of creativity, and creativity and style are everywhere – in furniture, in glasswork, in silverwork. All these things are parts of a larger whole.

What is the buyer’s role in fashion network?

Buyers are for fashion what chefs are for cooking. They are crucial to the whole operation. Just like a chef, a buyer chooses ingredients and turns them into an appetising collection. The result is like a dish, like a musical piece.

The success of your business rests on a good buyer: if the shop can’t sell what a buyer has purchased, you have to put it on sale and lose your profit. When a crisis strikes and you have to cut your budget such mistakes may cost too much. It’s a risky business. You only have a few months to sell products at full price. Make the

Do you ever visit multibrand stores when you travel, out of sheer curiosity?

Almost never. I always try to avoid department stores. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say I’m practically allergic to them! Sometimes, though, when in a mall, I may 22

BUYER

BUYER

them realise: this is it! A good buyer knows how to build the perfect image and conjure the perfect atmosphere for a boutique. S/he always brings something new. You know what mistake most buyers make? They all buy the same things. It doesn't help assert their originality. When the same tired items are on sale everywhere, it’s plain boring. But if you offer something unusual, and your shop is the only place where customers can get it, that means that you’ve done a great job.

How has the notion of luxe changed?

I think that luxe today is about distribution, not prices.

By choosing where to have your products sold you yourself determine their worth and value. Many major brands now have their shops at airports and soon I think they’ll start putting their shop-in-shops in railway stations.

They do it for the sake of the numbers. But these brands have lost their aura of exclusiveness. I can name only two fashion houses that are still sticking to their principles and manage to keep their identity: Hermès and Goyard, though Hermès also has its stores at the airports, but sells only travel accessories there.

What is your vision of the future of the offline retail in the age of ecommerce?

Brick-and-mortar stores enjoyed enormous advantages in the 20th century, but advances in technology has made it harder for them to stay on top and to provide their customers with all the services they expect. I think that offline retail as we know it is behind the times. It’s time to change. You can’t cling to the old methods anymore – customers are different nowadays, and so they need a different approach. Boutiques haven’t much changed since the 18th century, when the first one was opened in France. Later came department stores, but there was nothing dramatically new. They didn't have any individuality, and customers are looking for something unique, made-to-measure, figuratively speaking. They feel more at ease buying online, via their mobile phones or basing their choice on what they see on social media.

WHEN THE SAME TIRED ITEMS ARE ON SALE EVERYWHERE, IT’S PLAIN BORING. BUT IF YOU OFFER SOMETHING UNUSUAL, AND YOUR SHOP IS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE CUSTOMERS CAN GET IT, THAT MEANS THAT YOU’VE DONE A GREAT JOB

wrong decision, and you’ll have a hard time trying to shift them at half-price. The competition is too fierce.

Here, in France, we're starting to see shops taking on the tradition of Black Friday. These campaigns are very bad for business. They stem from American retail models and it’s department stores that are to blame, purchasing more than they can sell. Under such tough circumstances mere intuition is not enough. To succeed you must be creative and know how to make people’s dreams a reality.

The customer might not even know exactly what it is that they’re looking for, but the buyer should be able to make 24

How do you compete with online shops?

We worked it out long ago. Back in the 90s, when nobody did it, we already collaborated with artists and other creative people. For instance, we have recently asked Alain Ducasse to give some training sessions and a series of special suppers. We built a professional kitchen just for him, and now we rent it out for parties and other events. A successful businessperson knows that you can’t stand still, you must always keep moving.

We’re always trying to reach out to our customers, to answer their needs, to win their attention and interest, to develop a kind of a new language, a new means of communication between the concept store and the customer. For example, in 2001 we broke the mould

BUYER

25

BUYER

in terms of marketing and opened a new shop, Hérold, on a very tranquil, secluded street, no outdoor sign, no shop windows. A hideaway, a secret place only for those in the know. And a world of light, beauty and style behind the door. Goldman Sachs once named Hérold #1 luxury shopping experience in the world.

Your website still doesn’t have an online store. Is this a matter of principle?

In fact, we’re about to relaunch our website, as it’s rather old, and we’ll have our online store there, but, as usual, we want to make it something special. Modern websites are built on a common model, with the same set of functions and options. So now we are thinking about how to revolutionise online stores. When we opened our first website 15 years ago I put a picture of myself on the home page. I hadn’t shaved for a week to achieve the desired effect! Then there were 10 pictures with questions on fashion, design and photography, and to enter the website a user first had to answer at least five of them. It was a bold move away from the mainstream web idiom. We wouldn’t get away with it now, of course!

It would be madness. But we will certainly come up with something unconventional...

How do you promote LECLAIREUR on social media?

We have a team handling online promotion. Instagram is our leading tool, it’s much more important than Facebook now. Our strategy is giving people more than just a discourse on fashion. We talk about lifestyle, we share our philosophy, exchange points of view, and establish a dialogue with like-minded people.

What does it mean to be your customer?

We want to offer our customers a different perspective, to help them feel in a new way. Every person is multisided, and we help to discover these sides. It may be confusing and even uncomfortable at first, because you learn to look at yourself in a way you’ve never done before, and yet such changes may prove beneficial. Every person is like a diamond, each side of which reflects the light differently. The power of fashion is tremendous because it gives you an opportunity to change. Our shop assistants' mission is to help customers to construct a new image, which would bring out the best in them. Think of it like a magic personality cocktail!

a sentence, but repeating the same letter will get you nowhere. It won't make a language. In Los Angeles we use the whole alphabet – we have both art objects and exclusive pieces of clothing. We are the only retail shop in America that carries garments by Carol Christian Poell.

Only a few shops in the world have them, and we’ve fought for the right to bring his collections to American customers. The way we display them is also in a new language. But wait and see.

Why LA, not New York?

I am in love with this city and its incredible atmosphere.

LA is all about cinema, music and design. It attracts talents from all over the world. To be honest, I’ve never studied this market on purpose. I am not American and I am not going to teach the Americans anything, I just want to offer them my view and my philosophy.

What new developments will the customers find in your Paris stores?

I mix with so many creative people. I am going to keep collaborating with chefs. We want to give a series of thematic suppers with the menus built around truffles, as well as giving wine tastings and invite well-known sommeliers. Customers will get it all for free, naturally.

They just come and have a good time and buy a bottle of fine wine if they wish. That’s how I see it. When you live in a big buzzing city like Paris it's important to know that you can go to an event where all you have to do is relax and enjoy some time out. We have never looked on what we do as a commercial enterprise. We strive to set up a nice place which feels like home.

But still, it all boils down to sales?

I always instruct my staff to never pay compliments to customers just to flatter them. They’re likely to feel that you are being insincere and doing it just to make them buy something. My staff's job is not to sell, but to offer. A customer must make his or her own mind and say: yes, this looks great on me. To make a decision is all up to the customer, and to confirm this decision is up to the shop assistant.

As the creative director of Tranoï, what can you say about the way it has changed over the years and its future?

Tranoï has come a long way since its launch in 2003.

When we began it featured only womenswear brands.

Menswear collections and pre-collections have been added little by little. A few years ago we expanded outside of France and brought the show to New York.

Now we are planning to introduce Tranoï to a Shanghai audience. We will showcase the works of both European and Asian designers there. And we will keep on developing our presence in the USA, which gives us a fantastic potential for growth.

What is the concept of your first American store and how is it different from your shops in France?

It’s not a store. I think that a store in a traditional sense is giving way to something new. You can open a boutique but you won’t bring anything original onto the market.

What customers need today is a new language, a new means of communication. If you use all the letters of the alphabet, A, B, C, D and so on, you can make a word or 26

BUYER

27

BUYER

“I ALWAYS WANTED TO BE A CHANEL GIRL” CURRENTLY BUSY PROMOTING HER LATEST FILM “PLANETARIUM” THE TEENAGE DAUGHTER OF JOHNNY DEPP AND VANESSA PARADIS, LILY-ROSE DEPP, IS PROVING TO THE WORLD THAT SHE NOT ONLY HAS THE FACE OF AN ANGEL BUT A MATURE ON SCREEN PRESENCE TO MATCH; AND ALL IN THE SAME YEAR THAT SHE WAS PICKED AS THE FACE OF CHANEL’S NEW AROMA N5 L’EAU

INTERVIEW: Tatiana Rosenstein PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 28

BUYER

“Planetarium” is about siblings with supernatural abilities.

What do you think about your heroine?

The film shows my character Kate living just before the outbreak of the second world war and it is never clear if she actually has a supernatural gift or if she’s faking it just to survive in those tough economic times. As I couldn’t know for sure whether she was truly gifted or just pretending to be I chose to play her in an uncertain way. It was interesting just to put myself into the role without judging or thinking too much.

How did you come to the project?

Natalie Portman sent a photo of me to the director Rebecca Zlotowski when she was looking for the actress to play her sister, so I was able to meet Rebecca for coffee without going through dozens of middlemen. I was living in Los Angeles at the time and had barely made one film. My role in “The Dancer” would come later. I liked Rebecca very much and I liked the fact that she was very clear about what she wanted.

Kate’s character touched me because many of her personality traits resounded in me. I have a cheerful, sunny side, but I also have a shy side when I’m just stuck in my own world. Kate is not very grounded; sometimes she seems to float between life and death.

What was the most challenging aspect of this project?

It was the first time I’d read a script in French. I’m bilingual, but I studied in English and so reading in French was more of a challenge for me. During the shooting the most difficult scene was the one where I had to cry. I put myself into the character’s emotional state and looked up at the sun to help me a bit. The tears came and once they flowed I couldn’t stop myself.

Which scene was the most fun?

The most joyful scene to shoot was the one of the party, when it’s snowing at night. Emmanuel, who played the French film producer, carried me on his shoulders. We drank champagne and were intoxicated. I hurt my leg during this scene but despite the blood and the cold, I still didn’t want to stop.

Although the story is sad, the set was very joyous.

How do you manage to feel so confident at the age of just 17?

I don’t always feel confident. I have those moments when I feel lost or I like I’m not good enough, just like everybody else, and I’m intimidated by of all of the expectation. I think it’s important to put yourself out there for roles and do the best job that you can in order to create confidence. The results will come naturally.

How do you approach acting?

I don’t have a wealth of experience yet so I need to listen to my gut. I think that the ability to let go is paramount in an acting career. When shooting “The Dancer” in the Paris Opera I was playing this great artist, Isadora Duncan. She’s genuinely natural and I learned so much from her. I love playing characters that are free, seductive, shocking; maybe a little manipulative.

‘PLANETARIUM’ 2016

How was it to work with Natalie Portman?

Natalie is an incredible actress, she’s icon for me and I’ve seen almost all of her films. I’d been told there was a resemblance between us and when I see images of the film today, I can see that we look like sisters. Natalie was so protective and caring towards me that it was easy to play her younger sibling and look up to her, the feelings of respect were sincere.

“Planetarium” is set in Paris. How was for you to come back to Paris?

I love Paris. I was born there and throughout my whole life I’ve gone there to meet my parents. Paris is and will always be a place which I associate with seeing my family. It was interesting to see the city in a whole new light and shoot in the streets that I used to walk through when I was a child. Now I was there with my film crew and it all felt very surreal, especially in period dress surrounded by horses.

Do you believe in supernatural forces?

I do. Although of course I can’t be sure, I haven’t personally experienced something like that, but I believe something is there, some energy around us. Playing the role of a medium inspired me, as I’m not an entirely rational person and I like the idea that spirits stay with us after our death. I believe in horoscopes. I’m a Gemini, which is a very spontaneous sign and I’m definitely spontaneous.

Do you feel that you had a childhood being a daughter of celebrities?

It’s difficult trying to do regular kid’s stuff when you’re constantly in the spotlight. On the other hand, though I feel privileged knowing people like Karl Lagerfeld whom I met for the first time when I was just eight years old. I’ve now known him for over half of my life.

What is fashion for you?

Fashion was always a big thing for my mother and for me. I remember seeing pictures of myself when I was a baby wearing my mum’s Chanel pumps or proudly carrying her Chanel bag.

I always wanted to be a Chanel girl, I felt very special in those outfits.

29

BUYER

‘PLANETARIUM’ 2016

Do you think that kids can appreciate fashion?

It’s not about being a kid or an adult. Fashion is about experimenting, taking risks, and having adventure at any age. The best phase for experiments is childhood.

Do you prefer acting or modeling?

I think acting, it feels more emotional.

Is acting something you always wanted to do?

No, first I thought about a career as a singer. I like singing. But once I started acting I lost myself in acting and now all I want is to act.

What do you especially like in Chanel?

For me Chanel is Karl Lagerfeld and what I love in Karl is that he really knows how to bring out the best in you. No matter how you feel or look, in his hands you’re going to look amazing.

Have your parents ever tried to influence your choices?

No, I don’t think so. They’ve been very supportive since my first steps and they leave me to create my own experiences.

What is your favorite piece of clothing?

Probably the top.

How was it to play together with your father?

We played together in “Yoga Hosers”. It was very cool to be able to see him not as my dad, but as a professional. I was excited to finally work with him on set, even if only for a week,

How do you like your make-up?

I like blush as eye shadow, and emphasized eyes.

30

BUYER

and we had a good time together. I was amazed how confident he was about his role and how he would communicate it to the film director.

What do you think about your popularity?

Even though I grew up with the media circus, I don’t like the pressure of being constantly photographed. I always wonder who would want to see me so often or to read what I eat or wear. It’s weird. I don’t think I deserve this attention.

What are you going to do about it?

No matter what happens the circus seems to keep going and it was never my choice to participate in it. I’m sort of a home buddy, quite a chilled person and definitely not a club-goer. When I’m working I don’t have time for anything else. If I have a break, which can be two or three months I normally like staying home, relaxing or going to the gym.

I’m not going to take this media circus too seriously. I want to live my life, stay calm, have time for myself, and to meet my friends. My friends keep me grounded.

‘PLANETARIUM’ 2016

31

Promoted by

Associazione Pellettieri Italiani

Photo: courtesy of Delpozo press office

D E S I G N E RS

'Nature and ar t would be my fundamental sources of inspiration. Nature is my escape.

I find peace being in the countr yside and ever y collection I make is inspired by nature: m y d e s i g n s a r e v e r y o r g a n i c .'

Josep Font, Delpozo

BUYER

HANDCRAFTED TRADITIONS IN AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW FOR BUYER THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF DELPOZO, JOSEP FONT SPOKE ABOUT HIS LOVE OF TRADITIONS, HIS FAVOURITE SOCIAL MEDIA AND THE IMPORTANCE OF E-COMMERCE INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

34

BUYER

Coco Chanel once said: ‘Fashion is architecture. It is a matter of proportion’. Do you agree? Do you think it would be somehow different for you to work as a designer if you didn’t have a degree in architecture?

I really can’t say how it would have been for me to design without my background in architecture. Of course, due to my training, I did develop a sense of proportion.

Everything needs to be balanced in order to achieve a harmony between volume, silhouette, colour and texture.

This not only applies to every piece I design, but also to each collection as a whole.

DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017

DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017

Where do you draw your inspiration? Is there something that always works even if you are not in the mood?

Nature and art would be my fundamental sources of inspiration. Nature is my escape. I find peace being in the countryside and every collection I make is inspired by nature: my designs are very organic. And I also love art. I often take inspiration from an exhibition I visit or a ballet or opera I attend. Sometimes it’s as simple as discovering a new artist in an art gallery, or focusing on a particular painter or architect I am fond of.

DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017

35

BUYER

DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017

All of your creations are extremely feminine. Tell us about the Delpozo woman. What’s it like to be her?

How does she think of herself and of the world?

I envision a woman who has no defined nationality, age, profession or background. She is a citizen of the world; and she understands fashion and what suits her best, that’s why she dresses for herself, not for others. She is delicate yet strong, modern yet timeless, feminine yet bold.

embroidery piece is designed by Delpozo and made in house – we have a great embroidery team trained

by Lesage in Paris. I believe in protecting our craftsmanship, it’s key to our future. That said, I feel we have to continue innovating and looking for new ways to translate this craftsmanship into a modern aesthetic.

I like combining traditional materials like Swarovski crystals, sequins and pailletes, and mixing them with natural shells and PVC, or creating embroideries out of textures and elements that you don’t usually think of: wool, raffia threads etc.

Embroidery and other traditional hand-working techniques are essential elements of the Delpozo aesthetic. How do you combine tradition and innovation in your creations? What avant-garde materials do you use?

I try to reclaim artisanal techniques and combine them with fresh designs to create timeless collections. Every

How much do your collections respond to the needs of buyers and final customers and how much to your own creative vision?

The collection is bigger than the pieces seen during the show, we have a ‘more commercial’ side. Gar36

BUYER

ments range from white poplin shirts to embroidered gowns so our customers have a wide selection of options for different occasions. We cater to different styles of customers – ones who are looking for a special piece or others who want to fill their daywear wardrobe with Delpozo. I’m about to present my second pre-fall collection as we entered pre-collections last year with pre-fall and resort offerings, and these collections offer more day options which of course is what customers and buyers are increasingly looking for. However, I am always true to my vision. It’s something that cannot be compromised.

One of your first moves as creative director of Delpozo was to bring its collections to New York Fashion Week. Was it difficult to establish yourself as an important part of the event and of the industry?

This project was very challenging for me. When I arrived in 2012 my goal was to start a new chapter for the brand. I wanted a new language with a fresh and modern vision for the house, while also respecting its legacy. Of course it was difficult to establish the brand, but we are so happy with the decision we made when we decided to go to New York, we have had a wonderful welcoming and almost five years later I couldn’t be more proud of the whole team, who have worked so hard to get us where we are. The great part of NYFW is that they are always so hungry for newness, so the first couple of seasons we were really being looked at to see what we had to say in the fashion

DELPOZO SS 2017

market. February will mark my 10th collection under the creative direction of Delpozo, and we have come so far from the first show.

Your creations are represented on some of the most famous e-commerce websites. Do you think websites convey the same value for a luxury product as physical stores do?

Moda Operandi and Net-a-Porter have supported us from the very beginning, and it was so helpful for us to have such great partners from the get-go. I think e-commerce is growing more and more everyday and it’s important for an international brand to have an online presence. The real challenge for a luxury brand is to offer the same seamless shopping experience via e-commerce as in store.

How important is for you to connect with your audience through social media channels? Which of them do you use?

It’s the new way of communicating, not only between businesses and customers, but also with your friends.

Instagram is my favourite, and also the fashion favourite. I really enjoy using it as I have discovered many artists to collaborate with and it gives us brands and creatives new ways to get in touch with clients and followers.

DELPOZO SS 2017

What do you think about the ‘see now, buy now’ fashion model? Would Delpozo consider adopting it in the future?

For now, it is totally impossible for us to adopt this new model. The way we work and our timings are too complicated to make this change possible. Almost all my designs have a little handmade something, and some intricate pieces can take over 60 hours of embroidery work, but I am curious to see where this is going.

37

Prabal Gurung

Missoni

MM6

Fendi

BUYER

LET THERE BE FLARES

See by Chloé

Formal and casual, wide-leg and slim-fit — cropped trousers flared at an ankle level are featured in almost every collection, providing options for corporate clothing as well as leisure wear. If you fear that they may be tricky to style – don’t. Teamed with a classic jacket, sweater or jumper, or paired with a romantic blouse, they’re a versatile, wearable item. The rule of thumb here is to avoid vibrant colours and splashy prints.

However, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has proved that there is an exception to every rule.

Cropped trousers may have front slits, as in Versace and Fendi’s collections, or be adorned with rivets on the side seams, as shown by Prabal Gurung, while Frame and 38

Missoni prefer theirs plain and pareddown to retain their edgy appeal.

A two-piece suit is another must. Piazza Sempione puts a retro touch on it, Missoni thinks preppy, and №21 makes it extra vogue by replacing standard trousers with culottes. To tap into the trend why not add cropped jeans to your collection? As MM6 and Frame prove, they can be surprisingly stylish.

Cropped trousers are best teamed with elegant and feminine high-heeled shoes or sandals, to balance body proportions. Flats are still a no go as they make legs seem short and stumpy, but if you really want to shake it up try wedges as a refreshing alternative.

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

YES, CROPPED PANTS, CULOTTES AND FLARES ARE BACK, ALIVE AND KICKING. WHAT STARTED AS A BIZARRE STREET TREND HAS MADE IT INTO THE WARDROBES OF THE MOST WITH-IT FASHIONISTAS AND IS SET TO BE IN FASHION FOR MANY SEASONS TO COME

3.1 Phillip Lim

Rag & Bone

Public School

Sonia By Sonia Rykiel

BUYER

CHECK YOUR CHECKS If check makes you think about a demure schoolteacher in a double-breasted twopiece, then think again. In the upcoming season plaids, stylish and cosy just like your favourite blanket, will be sought-after by the most fashion-conscious. While these patterns have a strong retro feel about them, due to their popularity in the 70s and 80s, they have been reinvigorated and fit perfectly into contemporary fashion.

Forget dull browns and behind-the-times red tartan, today’s designers know that for fashionable clothes it's vivid colours and colour blocking that’s needed.

A long straight-cut plaid coat, like the ones offered by Carolina Herrera and 3.1 Phillip Lim, is a must-have for any collection. It’s

bound to become an autumn wardrobe staple and a canvas for experiments in style. It is also a great investment piece; a streamlined and strict plaid coat can suit a woman of any age. Those who are even more fashion-forward and want to mixand-match patterns and colours can pull inspiration from Diane von Furstenberg, Rag&Bone and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel.

Looking for something checked in youth clothing? №21’s Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Public School design garments that convey the most progressive street fashion trends. And for classic clothes enthusiasts, I’m Isola Marras, Rosetta Getty and Carolina Herrera offer a plethora of looks for romantic ladies with a penchant for the 70s and 80s.

39

Carolina Herrera

CHECKS AND PLAIDS ARE MAKING A HUGE COMEBACK, WITH TRADITIONAL TARTANS, GINGHAMS OR WINDOWPANE CHECKS LEADING THE FASHION PARADE

BUYER

“THE HEART OF FEMININITY IS STRENGTH” HE DESIGNED HIS FIRST GARMENT – A BLUE STRAPLESS DRESS, IF YOU WANT TO KNOW – FOR HIS SISTER’S BARBIE. BUT EVEN AS A CHILD, ERDEM MORALIOGLU KNEW HIS LOVE FOR FASHION WASN’T ABOUT TO STOP THERE. WE ASKED THE LONDON-BASED DESIGNER ABOUT HIS CANADIAN ROOTS, THE ERDEM WOMAN AND FUTURE PLANS

ERDEM PRE-FALL 2017

You grew up in a suburb of Montreal before moving to London. Have your Canadian roots influenced you as a designer at all?

I think that maybe with growing up in Canada I gained an appreciation for nature. I grew up near a very large, very beautiful lake. But when it comes to finding inspiration it’s not just nature that gets me going. I look at everything around me; art, music, books, films, travel, my friends, everything.

London is my home now, and as a city it is endlessly inspiring.

What most inspires your creative process?

When I start a collection I'm always looking for a narrative or a story… I love the idea of something that feels cinematic, of approaching fashion like a 40

BUYER

I’m interested in clothes that make you feel beautiful and that you want to keep forever, no matter what size. The most important thing is to create something that fits.

How much do your collections respond to the needs of buyers and final customers and how much to your own creative vision? Do you ever follow trends in terms of colours, cuts etc.?

Ultimately I just follow the story of what I am exploring in my head, but there comes a point when you have to understand your customer and her needs. I think opening my first store in London helped with the process, helped me understand my clients.

You’ve recently opened your first monobrand store in London. Do you have any new openings coming up, and if so, where?

I am excited to grow, I would love to open a store in New York next. We’ll see!

ERDEM PRE-FALL 2017

Last year you celebrated your brand’s 10th anniversary. Did you expect your brand would become such a success? How do you see Erdem growing in the next 10 years?

In 10 years time I’d love to have stores in different parts of the world. But ultimately, in a strange way I hope to be doing exactly what I’m doing now.

I think longevity is everyone’s goal and I love doing what I do.

film. I think it has something to do with my childhood and spending so much time in my basement watching film after film and daydreaming. I was obsessed with old movies: Visconti and Hitchcock.

Your collections could be described as odes to femininity. What does femininity mean to you? Do you think it’s easy to stay truly feminine nowadays?

I think the heart of femininity is strength. I love to explore the codes of femininity, unpicking what makes something feminine.

Is there a particular ‘Erdem woman’ you always keep in mind while creating a collection or does she evolve along with your collections?

She is so many different people. Ultimately she exists in my sketchbooks, in my imagination… In reality she’s beautiful, intelligent and marches to the beat of her own drum. In every collection she is different.

Unlike many of your colleagues your designs go up to a women’s UK size 16. Why do you think so many brands ignore this segment of the market and why did you decide to make a difference?

ERDEM PRE-FALL 2017

41

Fendi

Chanel

Gucci

Just Cavalligs

BUYER

ON TOP The vogue for padded jackets – once just a utilitarian piece of winter sportswear – is all thanks to Demna Gvasalia. The designer started the trend with his collections for Vetements and Balenciaga, and soon alloccasion women’s quilted coats and jackets were ruling the catwalks at Nina Ricci, Versace, Emilio Pucci and Pringle of Scotland, to name just a few. But what makes A/W 17 pieces so special is their versatility. Instead of pairing padded jackets with jeans or leggings designers are thinking outside the box. Pringle of Scotland teams them with classic white 42

trousers, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel puts them with a girly dress and fishnet tights, and Iceberg and Nina Ricci’s lookbooks even featured padded jackets styled over an evening dress. The truly fashion-forward could follow the expert guidance of Alessandro Dell’Acqua, who puts padded jackets with feather-adorned garments and gem-encrusted belts. But jeans, as per Cividini, or leather trousers, as seen at Versace, are also excellent partners for this versatile outerwear. That’s the magic of padded jackets: they suit any style and dress code, be it casual, cocktail or even white tie.

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

See by Chloé

AS THE COLDER MONTHS APPROACH, IT’S TIME TO STOCK UP ON OUTERWEAR. FOR AW 17 INVEST IN PADDED JACKETS AND CAPES: THEY’RE INSPIRED BY STREET FASHION, ACCESSIBLE AND CASUAL, AND VERY, VERY IN

Pringle of Scotland

Versace

Emilio Pucci

Iceberg

BUYER

If you still feel that a padded coat is too informal for your collection, then drape yourself in capes.

This sleeveless garment with slits for arms is a signature of British style, but love for it in the fashion world knows no borders. This autumn capes are made of wool and silk, with colours ranging from pitch black to camel. See by Chloé and Piazza Sempione offer loose and cosy pieces for the first crisp autumn days, and if you are looking for something for your eveningwear section, then an elegant black cape, as seen at Fendi and Chanel, is just the ticket. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele also delivers

a fresh take on the classic cape design. Some pieces, embroidered with tiny flowers, are guaranteed crowd-pleasers, but he also stays true to himself with some louder and more audacious interpretations. Dare you to stock the one with the panther head print. As a nice alternative you could opt for jackets or trench coats with slit sleeves, like the one featured in Neil Barrett’s collection. The designer presents a chic office look by pairing it with trendy cropped trousers for an ensemble that is both classic and up to date. Using the same trick, See by Chloé also puts a lively spin on the classic beige trench coat.

43

Nina Ricci

WHAT MAKES A/W 17 PIECES SO SPECIAL IS THEIR VERSATILITY. INSTEAD OF PAIRING PADDED JACKETS WITH JEANS OR LEGGINGS DESIGNERS ARE THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX. PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND TEAMS THEM WITH CLASSIC WHITE TROUSERS, SONIA BY SONIA RYKIEL PUTS THEM WITH A GIRLY DRESS AND FISHNET TIGHTS, AND ICEBERG AND NINA RICCI’S LOOKBOOKS EVEN FEATURED PADDED JACKETS STYLED OVER AN EVENING DRESS

BUYER

"OUR CLIENTS ARE COLLECTORS" THE STRONG IDENTITY OF THE GENEVA-BASED LABEL WORN HAS A SPUNKY AND SUBVERSIVE UNDERCURRENT. THE BRAINCHILD OF MAGDALENA BROZDA AND PAULINE FAMY, WORN HAVE TRANSFORMED THE NOTION OF A FASHION-FORWARD BAG, DELIVERING PRODUCTS OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY AND LIVING UP TO THE STANDARD THAT ‘SWISS MADE’ IMPLIES INTERVIEW: Anastasia Khvatova

You say that you don't create anything new, you just reinterpret. Who and what are your current objects of reinterpretation?

We’re inspired by the small things, that we use every day and can sometimes be so banal that we forget that they exist and how strong they are.

In every collection, we reinterpret and reuse the basics that everybody has, knows, and uses: the plastic bag, shoe bag, freezer bag, envelope etc.

We try to give them a sublime new lease of life through leather craft and artisanal work.

How many people work in your atelier and how quickly do you produce the collections?

We have a small but very efficient team. We collaborate with a Swiss artisanal atelier, who produce all our collections. We produce two collections each year plus the special projects that we work on in collaboration with other designers.

Our time of production is between one and two months after the client order has been placed.

You use high quality leather for your bags. Where do you source your leather from and what kind of bag furniture do you use?

We use the highest quality Italian leather that we source in Tuscany. The design of our bags is very pure and minimalist. We don't use any jewellery or metal elements. All the pieces are listed and numbered (they have a serial number, name of the artisan and date of production on the label). The tracing is very important for us. We also defend the Swiss quality; our bags are 100% Swiss made and we’re very proud of this!

As a young brand, what do you do to attract buyers and customers?

We attract buyers and customers with the quality, 44

BUYER

lieve that they can bring the perfect final touch to any simple look. The Worn client is self-confident, strong and refined. The bags are the statement, especially when teamed with the individual who wears them.

Following the eco trend, do you feel the need to create something from eco leather in the future?

We use the best quality of Italian leather and we collaborate with companies who respect the environmental aspects of production. We make our bags with the objective of zero waste. After we cut the bags, all the leftovers are used in the production of our small leather goods. Real leather is the heart of the artisanal way, but we would never use exotic leather or fur.

What's your future strategy for Worn? Where do you hope to be in 5 years?

Our strategy is to continue to develop the company, to keep working with passion and to raise the profile of the artisanal way of making leather goods. We strongly believe that the market is looking for new values and new solutions, which our products offer.

design, and creative identity of our products. We have also a strong visual image to the brand, which is the basis of our communication via Instagram and Facebook. The artistic aspect of our work is the heart of our project. We draw attention to the artisanal skill and the handcrafting, which adds value to our products.

How do you manage to combine your artistic approach to design and the financial stability of the company?

We try to find the balance between creativity, and the reality of the market. Our clients appreciate the artistic aspect of our products as well as the artisanal production. We produce a range of products, from basic to more complicated pieces, it’s this variety of products that helps us to maintain the stability of the company. We adapt to the needs and desires of our clients.

It is said that a well-chosen accessory can upgrade a very simple look, making it chic and unique. How do Worn bags change the look of a woman?

Our bags have strong creative identity and we beTHE NEW WORN COLLECTION IS

45

AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

Ioanna Solea The look

The principle is to create pieces that are stand-alone objects and not just accessories, so the “wow” factor is vital to the aesthetic of the brand. I design handbags as beautiful objects with the function to carry other objects.

Inspiration The natural world is always present in my collections. Nature is the starting point for everything in life, hence the brass beetle leitmotiv in all the collections. From its tough shell and beautiful jewel-like colours to its extraordinary metamorphosis, the beetle has great resonance with the style of the brand.

Country Italy

Year of founding 2013

Top stores La Tenda, Verde Lilla, The Place London, BS Moda, Cashmere and Silk, Isetan

Collections per year Two collections of handbags and necklaces

Upcoming selling dates February-March 2017

Key pieces The Beetle bag and the Dragonfly bag are the key pieces of the collection; they’ve been the staple pieces since the inception of the brand. They’re both small to medium sized, satchel-style bags which transform into new little “creatures” each season.

Signatures

adorn the bags and then work with carefully selected artisanal experts to create the final pieces.

The client Women who smile and read poetry! I think that my customers can be divided into two groups: women who like to be noticed, and women with a more understated classic style who love to carry a complimentary strong accessory.

Style icons I admire the energetic modern women of the past, and of today. I like women who are not afraid to be who they want, who play a strong role in their personal circle and in wider society; women with a strong voice and a unique personal style.

Highlights A year ago I was selected as one of the emerging designers to watch during the Mipel tradeshow. Then, in July 2016, I was one of the finalists in the Vogue Talents and Alta Roma Who is on Next? competition.

Autumn/Winter 2017-18 preview

The muted simplicity of the form of my handbags leaves space for the materials to dazzle. I like to play with and mix various contrasting materials and these are what I spend the most time researching; achieving a riot of results from refined to rustic, shiny to matt, luxurious to simple. I design the bespoke embroideries, and fur pieces that 46

I don’t usually talk about my future collections. All I will say about is that it’s inspired by the oriental erotic.

THE NEW IOANNA SOLEA COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

Juhree Erba The look We offer a taste of wellness and luxury honouring nature’s creative spirit and Korean heritage.

Inspiration All of nature’s most beautiful gifts are the sources and ingredients of my inspiration, coupled with my Korean heritage. Nature is full of creative energy and life force.

Key pieces The iconic ‘Navis’ bag represents the best new aesthetic in accessories. And it’s a perfect globetrotter essential, as ‘Navis’ means ‘ship’ in Latin.

Signatures Our signature feature as a vegetable-tanned leather bag is that all of our products are handcrafted with eco-friendly processes.

All of our products bear the much soughtafter ‘Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana’, Italy-certified tags. Our bags’ elegant lines

and forms grab the attention of the public while subtle details, such as the botanic print linings, offer a personal touch.

The client Juhree Erba is for conscious souls who are in pursuit of both inner and outer beauty.

Country

Style icons

Designed in Seoul, South Korea.

Made in Italy

Our brand’s style icon is Audrey Hepburn, who boasted both true inner beauty and outer elegance. She captivated the crowd with her natural elegance and humble beauty.

Year of founding

Highlights

Collections per year

2015

Top stores Galleria, My Boon (Sinsaegae)

2-4 Our brand has been on the market for less than a year, so everything we do is a monumental step toward the future: setting up the brand, being funded, designing and producing for the very first time, participating in multiple trade shows and so on. Most recently, Juhree Erba was selected as one of the five handbag designers to watch in Vogue Italia.

47

Upcoming selling dates 25.02.2017 – 01.05.2017

THE NEW JUHREE ERBA COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

The look

Signatures

Isalda is a Spanish brand making premium bags with a firm commitment to contemporary craftsmanship. The fusion of traditional techniques with abstract concepts is a recurrent theme of the designs.

Unique patterns, precise hand-painted cuts, invisible needlework and polished gold settings endow our products with the perfect balance between minimalism and sophistication.

The client Our customers seek exclusivity, uniqueness and quality both in the materials and in the manufacturing processes used in the production of their accessories.

Style icons Isalda is made for women who like to be the masters of their own lives; positive and independent women who seek a natural rhythm in everything they do.

Country Spain

Year of founding

Isalda

THE NEW ISALDA COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

2016

Inspiration

Highlights

Top stores El Paracaidista, Barei Shop, Not Just a Label, Qrator, Nass Boutique, Lola MuĂąoz Store, D2D

Drawing inspiration from a range of real world three dimensional objects from sculptural origami, architecture, industrial design and even the shadows cast by things, each piece is an homage to geometry.

Despite being still in its infancy, last autumn our brand was invited to participate in Premiere Classe Tuileries, the most recognized fashion fair within the accessory sector.

Collections per year

Key pieces

Autumn/Winter 2017-18 preview

The first timeless collection from Isalda is comprised of four unique cuts of bag and one wallet. Available in three distinctive tones: deep black, ice grey and carmine red.

At Isalda we don’t believe in collections, but instead release new colourful editions of our high-quality leather each season and one new bag per year.

2

Upcoming selling dates Every month of the year

48

BUYER

Gladstone The look

Signatures

Highlights

Understated timeless design for the urbanite, handcrafted to the highest standards. Clean lines and functional pieces offered in colours for the most refined of tastes.

The hardware, diamond cut to reflect the rough and smooth influences of the brand, is handcrafted on a lathe in Como in the north of Italy. All the bags feature our luxurious, stain-resistant, grey melange, Alcantara lining. Only grade A skins are selected and the shapes used are all influenced by original vintage pieces from the London Made era.

The brand aims to deliver luxury goods at premium prices by building business with modest margins, whilst maintaining retailer revenue. Having seen it, Harrods immediately launched the collection.

The designers and team have decades of luxury experience having worked at the likes of Bottega Veneta, Chanel and Tanner Krolle. GQ Style voted Gladstone the number one brand to watch AW16.

Inspiration With its contemporary aesthetic, the Gladstone London range pays homage to lost designs, and the craftsmanship of the golden era of London Made. Using world renowned skilled artisans, our young designers gain inspiration and hone their skills working alongside retired craftsmen.

Fusing the quality and craftsmanship of the past with the needs of the future.

Key pieces The iconic Diamond Cut Bolt Lock collection, the brand's strongest and most recognized, is being expanded: pieces include The G14 tablet case, G48 Travel bag and G21 Tote.

For those wanting designs that have less vocabulary, who prefer the craftsmanship to shine, then the G23 Backpack is streamlined like no other and the G8 overnight offers pared back versatility, flipping from an overnight to a city tote with a simple zip.

The client The intellectually minded with unique personal styles who remain under the radar. City dwellers who wear pieces from small artisan brands to reflect their own values. Opinion formers, not followers, with a unique way of collecting and mixing things up.

Country United Kingdom

Year of founding 2015

The stores Harrods exclusive launch, Harvey Nichols, Wonderland Magazine shop

Style icons Tina Chow, Lauren Hutton, Paul Newman, James Dean, Marissa Berenson, Eileen Grey, Steve McQueen, Iman, Johnny Depp, Constantin Brâncuși, Millicent Rogers, Richard Gere, Bryan Ferry, Loulou de la Falaise.

Collections per year 2

THE NEW GLADSTONE COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT

49

VIADELBUYER.COM

Carven

See by Chloé

Michael Kors

Diane von Furstenberg

BUYER

Victoria Beckham

IN FASHION, IF CLOTHES ARE THE CAKE, THEN ACCESSORIES ARE DEFINITELY THE ICING. BUYER REVIEWS THE LATEST ACCESSORIES TRENDS AND LEARNS MORE ABOUT THE FINISHING TOUCHES THAT WILL TAKE THIS SEASON’S STYLE TO THE NEXT LEVEL ALL THAT JAZZ Be it the Jazz Era or the Age of Aquarius, fringe rules the roost in Roaring ‘20s-inspired ensembles and 70s hippie chic. Not many can pull off full-on fringe with the head-to-toe look, but thankfully a bag is enough. Inspiration can be found in Michael Kors’ reimagining of the 20s, or Diane Von Furstenberg who evokes the bohemian spirit of the 70s.

LEG WARMERS TAKE OVER Gone are the days when leg warmers were 50

only seen in dance classes: now this simple accessory is making a huge catwalk comeback. And what’s even better, they go with everything: sneakers, flats and even heels, as advised by Carolina Herrera.

VOLUME WARS Either miniscule or massive, tiny or titanic – there really is no middle ground when it comes to bags this autumn. Go big with oversized shopper bags, drawstring bags and furry handbags, or add an in-vogue edge to

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

GOING INTO DETAIL

your collection with classic micro bags à la minaudière, with just enough room for lipstick and phone.

this season they’re perfect accessories for any look thanks to their on-trend versatility.

A STATEMENT BAG This season t-shirts with rebellious slogans move over and let the bags do the talking. These statement pieces say it loud and say it proud. Coach has bags adorned with a NASA pendant to send a love letter to space, while Gucci and Tory Burch offer items emblazoned with the romantic messages ‘Loved’ and ‘We belong to each other’.

A MATTER OF HAT No one goes unnoticed wearing a straw or felt hat, especially if it’s a hat from Patrizia Fabri. Based in Rome, this 80-year-old Italian brand is renowned for its hats, handmade with traditional methods but following the latest trends.

The result is irresistible and versatile millinery, perfect for promenading on the French Riviera or attending Royal Ascot. Hats off to them!

Tory Burch

Gucci

Fendi

MM6

BUYER

WALK THE WALK Forget skin-tight thigh boots and stocking boots: they’re last year’s news.

Now it’s time for wide calf boots to have their day. Yes, they might be clunky, with something of a Robin Hood vibe, but

THE NE W PATRIZIA FABRI COLLEC TION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER

Patrizia Fabri

AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

SEAMORE: A NEW VISION FROM RUSSIA

SEAMORE AW17

CLOTHES SHOULD BE AS MULTIFACETED AS A MODERN WOMAN’S LIFESTYLE. THIS WAS THE THOUGHT THAT PROMPTED FOUR RUSSIAN WOMEN – AN ENTREPRENEUR, A BUYER, A STYLIST AND A DESIGNER – TO FOUND SEAMORE

52

BUYER

but to find it you need to walk a long way.” Interestingly, Seamore’s founders prefer not to focus attention on themselves but rather on the real protagonists of the brand – the women who wear its collections.

The brand launched for the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 season, and is already collaborating with a few Russian multi-brand boutiques operating in the luxury sector. Starting in S/S 2018 the brand is planning to enter the international market, maintaining its production in Russia. ‘You won’t find overt elements of Russian style in our collections, but more subtle references to Russia are always there. We’re inspired by Russian women who are incredibly multifaceted and strong – able to maintain a brilliant career and a happy family.’

SEAMORE AW17

The name of the brand reveals both the life vision of women who choose to see more, and it’s also a reference to the characteristic of the dresses – they are more than they first appear to be. But we’re only just starting – the name is also a clever multilingual pun, where sea is an English word and ‘more’ is actually a transcription of the word ‘sea’ in Russian. Just to add a pinch of romance, the name also hides the word ‘amore’. Seamore collections take inspiration from the love stories of great artists and their muses.

With ten years’ experience of buying and customers relations under their belts this all-women team had a unique approach to creating a brand that set them apart from many designers. Their first priority was to offer cuts that would flatter every body shape, and designs that would fit every lifestyle.

With this in mind, the young brand chose an unconventional concept when they started creating their collection: multiway dresses. Each design can be worn in more than one way. Some pieces, for example, offer a reversible design so you can turn them inside out for a fresh look, while others magically transform from maxi to mini.

Some of the most interesting looks have detachable elements that make the dress perfect both for evening occasions and for a day in the office. The brand’s creators think that this ‘2-in-1’ or even ‘3-in-1’ approach will be perfect for busy women who’re always on the go.

SEAMORE AW17

These double dresses have a lot of thought put into them – in fact it’s almost impossible to find the trick unless you’re in the know. But developing the dresses wasn’t straightforward, as the Seamore team elaborate. ‘It wasn’t easy to bring our vision to life so that the garments looked balanced, fitted nicely and had the right price point. We collaborated with a number of Italian factories until we found a professional team of pattern makers in the heart of Moscow. Sometimes the answer is right in front of you, 53

BUYER

MADE IN GEORGIA GEORGIAN BRANDS HAVE BEEN CAUSING A STIR WORLDWIDE, ATTRACTING THE ATTENTION OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION EDITORS WITH THEIR FASCINATING DESIGNS. WITH BUYERS' NEEDS IN MIND WE'VE SELECTED THREE BRANDS THAT COMBINE A UNIQUE AESTHETIC WITH GREAT FIT AND QUALITY

Gvantsa Janashia JANASHIA

54

BUYER

Where do you draw inspiration?

It’s something different for every season, and it’s always something new. A gripping film, a talented actor or musician, or a country and its culture.

What are the key elements of your collections?

Asymmetric lines, intricate and diverse shapes, and the painstaking treatment of details. I love working at each single detail, I’m meticulous about it.

What woman would wear your clothes?

She is an unconventional-thinking, bohemian type, but the main thing is her strong individuality and sense of style. Her age doesn't matter. I make clothes for women of all ages.

At Janashia we want to bring masculinity and femininity together in harmony in our garments. We value freedom and beauty more than anything, and this is what we’re trying to express through our clothes. All our collections channel elegance and blend a graceful femininity with an underlying masculinity.

Where are your garments made and what are your favourite materials?

My team and I make our clothes in Georgia. My team are highly professional and work from a lab with all the necessary tools and equipment for the most large and complex assignments. My favourite materials? Silk and all kinds of silk fabrics — taffeta, organza, georgette crepe. I also love working with cashmere, cotton and velvet.

What do you plan next? How do you see the future of your brand?

We are working to make Janashia instantly recognizable and we want more people to know about it, so we hope to reach out to more foreign customers. We are going to participate in all seasons of Tbilisi Fashion Week and work closer with online platforms like Via del Buyer.

Georgian fashion is increasingly popular abroad. How do you explain this growing interest?

I’ve been studying Georgian fashion for years and I think that it’s a strong individuality that makes our designers so unique.

There is something very particular about the way we perceive and use colour. It has been our trademark feature since the Soviet period. Our collections have always stood out among those of other Soviet designers, and today two of our designers are famous internationally: Demna Gvasalia, who is the Creative Director at Balenciaga, and David Koma, who is the Creative Director at Thierry Mugler.

What have Georgian designers learnt over recent years and what are they yet to master?

We are becoming a part of the global fashion industry and we now know how to operate on foreign markets, but we still need to make ourselves more recognisable.

THE NEW JANASHIA COLLECTION IS

55

AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

Lado Bokuchava ATELIER KIKALA

BUYER

What inspires you when creating collections?

Personally I have never experienced these flashes of insight when an idea suddenly hits you and everything clicks logically.

With me, preparing a collection doesn’t happen the way musical masterpieces are born. I like it when everything is under control and going according to plan: I know what I have to do today and what can be left until tomorrow. I stick to deadlines, so I deliberately sit myself down and start working, without waiting for inspiration. It is not that all the ideas I need arrive on a single day; rather, they accumulate in my mind over time. I watch new movies, listen to music, follow the theatre, keep my eyes open, and this provides the raw material. When the moment to create a collection comes, I channel these experiences into sketches and try to bring them together into a single picture.

What kind of woman do you design your clothes for?

I have no specific kind of an ideal woman I create my clothes for, as I do not separate people by their type of appearance.

For me, there are no limits to beauty. To be honest, I am not fond of perfect people.

Where are your collections produced, and what materials do you favour?

Our clothes are made in Georgia. Working with silk organza, silk and wool is what I like best of all.

The Georgian fashion is being increasingly discussed abroad in the recent years. What do you think has caused this growing interest?

I find this one hard to answer as I am, of course, part of that industry!. Perhaps someone looking from the outside, some impartial expert would find it easier to expand on this. Every person has their own roots, and my work is a complete reflection of me and my vision of fashion. Probably what distinguishes the Georgian fashion industry from others is this traditionalism and a sense of rootedness: a connection for designers to where they grew up.

What have Georgian designers learnt in the recent years, and what do they still have to learn?

Looking over the past year, I would say the Georgian fashion industry is doing well – nowadays foreign media and buyers are starting to become very interested. They consider the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi to be worth their attention. This event is attended by major trendsetters, both locally and internationally speaking. So perhaps we cannot say yet that we have climbed any major peaks but we are definitely going in the right direction!

The two most recent seasons have turned out to be really significant, and this is a good beginning.

THE NE W ATELIER KIK AL A COLLEC TION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

57

BUYER

Where do you draw your inspiration?

From films, music, modern art, travelling and just meeting interesting people. I love walking around the streets of old Tbilisi or sitting in one of my favourite cafés with my friends. All these things can affect the way I feel. I’m also inspired by Paris and its museums.

What woman would wear your clothes?

I don’t have a particular woman in mind. Every woman has many sides to her, many aspects of femininity – romantic, or edgily stylish, or just simple. Individuality is what matters most for me. I sometimes joke that having worked with so many private clients I’m a kind of psychologist now. I enjoy meeting different people and learning about their personalities and views.

Where are your garments made and what are your favourite materials?

When we say we ‘make’ our clothes we really mean it! We do almost everything by hand. ‘We’ means me and my team of craftspeople. It’s

What foreign designers have influenced you the most?

I can’t say I am strongly influenced as such, but I do have designers and brands I adore: Nicolas Ghesquière, Miuccia Prada, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli.

Georgian fashion is increasingly popular abroad. How would you explain this growing interest?

I think it all began after Demna Gvasalia emerged. He really revolutionised fashion. The global fashion industry was waiting for something new, and Demna gave them exactly what they wanted.

Some people couldn’t even find Georgia on a map, and now, after so many years, everybody’s finally talking about us.

a very limited production. As for my favourite materials, it’s silk. It's like my signature fabric. You can often say that these are my clothes if they are made of silk. For example, I often use double silk for trousers, suits and overcoats. I also like silk muslin, cashmere, silk/cotton fabric and leather. But I use leather so soft it looks and feels like silk.

What plans do you have for the future? Where is your brand headed?

We are going to grow but we want to keep what makes us unique. We won’t compromise quality and we will keep our clothes handmade.

Buyers already recognise our garments at first glance, and we are constantly expanding our client base and getting more and more orders. So we are keen on developing but we are not going to shift to mass production. Preserving our individuality is the most important thing for us.

58

What have Georgian designers learnt over the last few years and what are they yet to master?

I can see only positive developments. Georgian brands now know how to design collections and produce clothes on a larger scale.

Everybody used to present their collections whenever they wanted, and now they showcase them twice a year, as is common in fashion.

And since Georgian labels now operate at a steady pace buyers have confidence in them. Every brand knows this and does its best to maintain its good reputation.

What makes Eastern European brands on the whole and Georgian brands in particular different from Western European ones?

I don't think we are that much different. Each country is special and unique in its own way. It’s something about the nation's DNA, something that is very hard to put into words. As for Georgian brands, I think we have this strong and even rebellious character which we communicate with our fashion.

THE NE W TAMUNA INGOROK VA COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

Tamuna Ingorokva TAMUNA INGOROKVA

BUYER

NEW HEROES OF FASHION SCENE WE ASKED THREE UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ABOUT THEIR INSPIRATION, CREATIVE VISION, AND THE AESTHETIC OF THEIR COLLECTIONS How do you manage to combine creative vision with market demands in your collections?

Working in the field of design allows me to develop and launch my ideas into the world but always in the pursuit of beauty. Great design uses innovative concepts to cleverly pull together the creativity of the artist and the desires of the market. The two forces can be delicately balanced.

JOLIN WU Tell us about your background.

I studied womenswear in fashion design at the Central Saint Martin’s College and the Royal College of Art. What led to the creation of your own fashion brand?

I suppose that some things just come naturally. It was during my teenage years that I first fell in love with fashion design and I just felt, from then onwards, that this was what I wanted to do.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I’m a life-long devotee of fine art, installation art, and photography.

All my expressiveness originates from my adoration of these art forms.

MARIA PIANKOV Give us a glimpse of what to expect from your AW17 collection.

Feminine attitude and a new narrative. I’m dedicating the new collection to my grandfather, he has always been a great inspiration to me.

What makes your brand’s vision and style unique, and what sets your collections apart?

Each season I tell a story and sell a dream to every woman, through fabric and design. I make clothing that people can cherish and be proud to own as part of an everlasting collection in their wardrobe.

With high-end quality materials, unique design, and delicate crafting: every piece of clothing I produce is exclusive and has its own aesthetic.

What do you think about collaborating with buyers online?

I’m thrilled with the collaboration. I’m especially looking forward to seeing Jolin Wu collections online, and making the brand available to a wider audience.

What signature elements of your brand can be found in every collection?

Unique handcrafting, boyish feminine styles, pleats, and original prints.

Describe the woman you design your pieces for.

My mother! I design for independent women with a passion for life, uninhibited by age.

What is the process of creating a new collection like for you?

Every new collection is a journey.

You start in one place and end up somewhere completely different.

How do you manage to combine creative vision with market demands in your collections?

There is nothing that demands creativity more than the limiting factor of the customer`s wants and needs. Being creative within a given frame is a constant challenge, which makes my job more interesting.

What makes your brand’s vision and style unique, and what sets your collections apart?

The collections reflect my fascination with both technology and couture. The brand is fresh and easy to wear, but uses labour intensive workmanship and traditional needlework techniques.

I like to make a statement by using clever cutting and innovative product development processes, this gives the garments an entirely new feel.

What signature elements of your brand can be found in every

60

BUYER

market will always surprise you. One thing I can be sure of, is that consumers are always looking for something different. Once you’ve transformed an abstract concept into a product, you’ve found the balance between creative vision and market demand.

PERCY LAU Tell us about your background and what led to the creation of your own fashion brand?

I studied jewellery design at Central Saint Martins in London. After entering the international talent support accessories competition, back in 2013, I won the YKK award and this put me in contact with a lot of inspiring people in the industry. Their support and advice gave me the courage to continue to express my ideas through eyewear and accessory designs by starting my own brand. collection?

I like exploring the idea of movement, I often think of Michail Baryschnikov dancing.

I’m intrigued by sportswear and new technologies, that’s why my pieces are quite sporty and have very technical finishes. I trained in the Haute Couture atelier of Valentin Yudashkin, so I understand the value of haute couture. This experience gave me a natural inclination towards exquisiteness and a respectful approach to working with garments using labour intensive processes.

Describe the woman you design your pieces for.

I like to think of a girl in a body

of a goddess. She’s elegant and full of charm, yet in her heart she’s playful and bold. Frank Sinatra describes her perfectly when he sings “The lady is a tramp”.

What is the process of creating a new collection like for you?

It’s exciting and nerve-racking at the same time. It would be better if there was less pressure. What with the fashion weeks, sampling, production and all the press demands, designers have too many deadlines to meet.

Give us a glimpse of what to expect from your AW17 collection.

The collection takes threads of the past season, but we’ve added new angles and explored new ways to express the brand’s identity. I travelled quite a lot whilst working on AW17, so I had to work from many new places and surroundings, which stirred up lots of different interesting emotions. This has certainly influenced the line.

What makes your brand’s vision and style unique, and what sets your collections apart?

There are connections on the theory behind my designs, but each collection looks completely different, right through from the initial concept to final product.

What signature elements of your brand can be found in every collection?

Recreation and transformation feature in every collection, but my designs always challenge what you think you know. I like to surprise.

What do you think about collaborating with buyers online?

It’s a fantastic opportunity for designers to engage with their audiences.

How do you manage to combine creative vision with market demands in your collections?

Combining the two aspects is always a challenge. It’s hard to make a precise prediction on the market demands; the JOLIN WU, MARIA PIANKOV AND PERCY L AU

61

COLLECTIONS ARE AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

THE FEMALE PRINCIPLE HOWEVER FIERCE WE MIGHT APPEAR IN THE BOARDROOM, THE TOUGH BUSINESSWOMAN ACT IS ONLY THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG WHEN IN COMES TO A WOMAN’S FEMININITY. TENDER AND DELICATE YET STRONG AND PASSIONATE – THESE SEEMING CONTRADICTIONS ARE TESTIMONY TO THE TRUE DEPTHS OF A WOMAN’S NATURE. NOW EVERY WOMAN CAN REVEAL HER INNERMOST SPIRIT WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM ELEGANCEALLURE, WITH GARMENTS THAT REFLECT THESE SOMETIMES SECRETIVE BUT UNIVERSAL QUALITIES OF FEMININITY

The Eleganceallure designers draw inspiration for their AW 2017/2018 collection from dreams, blending fantasy and reality, exploring the movements of the mind and workings of the subconscious, and infusing Western culture with Eastern influences. The brand’s clothes evoke surreal visions and free associations that let your imagination run wild. A recurrent theme is the diversity and sensuality of nature, a strange yet familiar world of languorous girls and enchanted gardens lush with dazzling flowers and exotic birds, a mysterious world of secret desires.

Magnificent floor-sweeping evening dresses form a major part of the collection. Elegant shapes, asymmetric cuts and multilayering emphasise the grace and fragility of the woman wearing these art pieces, and rich colours – black, violet, berry, carmine, canary yellow and pearl grey – add a sensual note to the vibrant sartorial chord.

With opulent fabrics like velvet, silk, lace, organza and chiffon, the dresses feature beautiful lace insets and handcrafted belts. Other decorative elements include raw edges drawing attention to 62

the fabric handle and intricate leaves made from layers of air-light veiling and chiffon and embroidered with metallic threads, beads and sequins. Such strong elements alone are enough for the dress to speak for itself and there is no need for accessories to finalise the look.

And this, as any Eleganceallure girl knows, is the secret of her charm: to build a look that channels her individuality and transmits an air of self-confidence, harmony and inner freedom.

blickdesign.it

MЕЖДУНАРОДНАЯ ВЫСТАВКА OБУВИ И ГOТOВЫX ИЗДЕЛИЙ ИЗ КОЖИ INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION FOR SHOES AND LEATHER PRODUCTS

21–24 МАРТА MARCH 2017 24–27 ОКТЯБРЯ OCTOBER 2017 PОССИЯ, MOCКВА, ЦBK «Экспоцентр» | Expocentre Fairgrounds, MOSCOW, RUSSIA

Opгaнизаторы | Organized by

Итальянское участие при официальной поддержке | Italian participation officially supported by

Для получения дополнительной информации обращаться | For more information please contact

АО «Экспоцентр» Expocentre AO При поддержке | Supported by

Bologna, Italy e-mail: fairsystem@fairsystem.it Tел. | Phone: +39 051 282848

Mocква, Pоссия | Moscow, Russia e-mail: centr@expocentr.ru Tел. | Phone: +7 (499) 795-37-99

www.obuv-expo.ru

Реклама

Chanel

Stella McCartney

Gucci

Givenchy

BUYER

Reem Acra

THINK BIG Designers are never shy to add a splash of theatrics to their shows. Not content with limiting themselves to the clothes or runway scenery, accessories and fashion jewellery, in particular, are essential for a costume drama.

The short-lived enthusiasm for minimalistic pieces — ear cuffs, chokers and thin chains with pendants — is officially over. Now largerthan-life fashion jewellery steps back into the limelight.

Earrings are the main accessory of the season. They are large, but not massive as

Alexander McQueen

64

in previous seasons, and shaped into wire splodges as at Edun shows or into large drops as per Victoria Beckham. Pearls, a delicate symbol of femininity, are also back from a long exile. They add up to ornamental stones in Etro’s colourful earrings while Stella McCartney assembles them like grapes. The evergreen floral motifs also make it onto the catwalks, and here Reem Acra and Erdem pieces are in full bloom. Single earrings will also sparkle their way into the next season, shining bright and stylish in the 3.1 Phillip Lim pre-fall lookbook.

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

THE LEADING AUTUMN TREND IS IMPRESSIVE EARRINGS, LARGE BUT ELEGANT. WORN PAIRED WITH HEADPIECES AND PEARL JEWELLERY FOR THE BEST EFFECT

Erdem

Fendi

Another stalwart for the upcoming season are headpieces. Fine crystal-encrusted flower headbands were spotted on Reem Acra models, while Fendi designers assembled theirs from hair clips with plastic embellishments. Riccardo Tisci took the eccentricity even further. His daring experiment of a giant plastic chain with a stone that he designed for Givenchy will not bring you down but will raise you to the highest fashion ranks. The classic-minded will find their favourite layered necklaces made of chains and strings of pearls in Chanel’s collection.

One more thing. “Thou shalt wear standout accessories with neutral clothes”, says the unspoken rule of styling. Not this time: today’s statement bijoux calls for statement apparel. Gucci, Marco di Vincenzo and Erdem totally agree.

Fendi

Gucci

Chloé

Edun

Chanel

BUYER

Kenneth Jay Lane 65

BUYER

PLAYING WITH CONTRASTS Shourouk established her eponymous company in 2008. While of Tunisian descent she’s a true Parisian and graduated at Studio Berçot before honing her techniques within the most prestigious fashion houses of Chloé, Galliano, and Roberto Cavalli. “My love affair with Jewellery began early. In childhood, I was already playing with my grandmother’s diamond bracelets. Later, my different experiences in fashion houses, made me understand that jewellery was my vehicle for artistic expression. For me it's more than just jewellery, it’s all about the details and creating a piece that is perfect from all angles. Creating jewellery makes me feel like a sculptor”.

The main components of Shourouk’s creations are Swarovski crystals. By combining them with contrasting materials,

such as PVC and climbing rope, the designer creates playful, contemporary pieces. She travels through fashion history, mashing up different inspirations like Bollywood movies, with those of the 80’s, or the Russian aristocracy.

In 2008, Shourouk accessorized the Hollywood heroines of Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture fashion show. She’s also collaborated with Hiroko Koshino, the leading Chinese luxury brand ShanghaiTang and is currently working on a new contribution for Swarovski.

The brand’s accessories have been spotted on many celebrities including Sarah Jessica Parker, Blake Lively, Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Miroslava Duma and Michelle Obama.

THE NEW SHOUROUK COLLECTION IS

66

AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

THE BEAUTY OF IMPERFECTION German jewellery designer Simone Vera Bath, takes irregularly surfaced, vintage inspired materials, and moulds them into one-off pieces that breathe with the spirit of the olden days. Designing collections for both men and women, her high fashion lines rely on staples of silver, bronze and wood, while her fine jewellery features precious and semi-precious stones exhibited in an assortment of golds.

Each item produced by the brand is unique and carries a message, as Simone explains:

“My most popular creation is the Fedone. It’s a ring to give to yourself and no one else: to make a pact with yourself to accept who you are and how you choose to live your life.

It’s like a wedding ring that represents you being faithful to yourself.” Other innovative creations by Simone include Town: a line of rings depicting iconic sights of Rome, New York, Paris, and Berlin. The planets and most prominently Earth are the heavenly inspiration for the new AW 2017 collection.

THE NE W SIMONE VER A BATH COLLEC TION

68

IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

Prada

Marni

Chalayan

Tim Coppens

BUYER

A TENDER AGE

Joseph

The modern man can afford to stay between boyhood and adulthood for much longer than his forefathers. He doesn’t have to conform to society’s expectations and he can build a creative career – or no career at all. He can search for his own path, knowing age is just a number. Naturally, this free spirit dresses just the way you’d expect of an eternal boy.

So what are Peter Pan and friends wearing this season? Thick real fur, faux fur and even patchwork fur make an appearance as oversized coats, along with sheepskin. The focus is feeling warm and cosy, rather than looking lean and sharp, but thanks to 70

their cuddly silhouettes these pieces are perfect for beating the winter chill.

In fact, clothes that warm the body and soothe the soul are just the thing to reach for as autumn rolls in this year. Chunky sweaters, long scarves and comfy cardigans have all snuggled down in our wardrobes.

These knitwear pieces have a strong ethnic feel about them, many with a hand-knit aesthetic.

J.W.Anderson and Chalayan follow the oversized trend by bringing in maxi sweaters with elongated sleeves thrown over cropped wide-leg trousers with a high waist.

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

HERE THEY COME: ARTISTS, INTELLECTUALS, FREELANCERS, THE WHOLE CREATIVE CROWD. REFUSING TO GROW UP AND UNAFRAID TO EXPERIMENT, THEY CHOOSE CLOTHES AS UNCONVENTIONAL AS THE TIMES WE ARE LIVING IN

Christopher Raeburn

Gosha Rubchinskiy

Neil Barrett

Versace

BUYER

JUST WEARING ATHLEISURE MAKES YOU FEEL YOUNGER, FITTER AND MORE ENERGETIC. STILL WONDER WHY THIS URBAN TREND IS WINNING HEARTS AND MINDS? Like the men’s three-piece suit, athleisure is already an established classic in the fashion world. Designers have been borrowing ideas from professional sportswear for many seasons in a row and have so succeeded in reimagining it for everyday life that it is now totally acceptable to wear a suit and trainers to a restaurant, or a bomber jacket and a polo shirt to the office.

Gosha Rubchinskiy, the leading advocate of post-Soviet influences in fashion, has collaborated with Adidas for his latest collection and brings us tracksuits, t-shirts with giant Cyrillic slogans and side stripe trousers, thus turning the wardrobe staples of 90’s Russian youth

into the uniform of the most style-savvy men of today.

Tracksuits effortlessly teamed with elegant outerwear is an ideal everyday look, according to Tim Coppens and Z Zegna. Who would have thought that red trousers and a sweatshirt with a white sheepskin coat would make such a perfect match?

Padded coats also rule this season, sported with a ski mask as per Z Zegna instead of traditional headwear.

Plein Sport and Christopher Raeburn give us plenty of looks to move effortlessly between the football field, the gym or the street, and Versace and Ports 1961 propose some more excellent ideas.

71

Z Zegna

A THIRST FOR SPORTS

Ermenegildo Zegna

Dolce&Gabbana

Dirk Bikkembergs

Chalayan

BUYER

STRICTLY BUSINESS Many men eschew fashion trends for a more classic look, and treat personal style like professional reputation: something that should be slowly built up over many years. Designers might disagree with this orthodox approach but they know better than to rock the boat, and so they introduce changes slowly and subtly. A turtleneck worn instead of a shirt under a formal suit jacket is one of the latest updates to the classic look. The season’s hottest combo dominates the catwalks at Ermenegildo Zegna, Neil Barrett, Versace and others.

72

Unlike last season, when designers revisited the 1930s and brought us suits consisting of a jacket and a pair of straight-cut, often loose-fit trousers, autumn 2017 sees suits given an upgrade and tailored much closer to the body. The tide has turned, and men’s suits are generally reserved and moderate, although Chalayan and Neil Barrett provide an exception to the rule with their bulkier jackets and ankle-baring cropped trousers.

The number one pattern in men’s fashion this season is undoubtedly checks. Large

TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

Markus Lupfer

WITH ITS TWO-PIECE SUITS, TAILORED COATS AND STARCHED SHIRTS A CLASSIC MEN'S WARDROBE IS A NO-NONSENSE AFFAIR, BUT IN THE UPCOMING SEASON A BIT OF TIE-LOOSENING IS MORE THAN WELCOME

Ports 1961

Neil Barrett

Versace

Ermenegildo Zegna

BUYER

and small, bright and restrained, tartan and Windsor – checks abound in the Canali, Markus Lupfer and Versace shows. But they’re not limited to suits – a long straight-cut plaid coat is a must.

For a serious business look stay away from bolder cuts and experiment with offbeat elements instead: think a camel coat with appliques or embroidery, as per Dolce&Gabbana, or a jacket with a contrasting inset, as seen at Ports 1961.

2)

The go-to accessory to team with men’s suiting is a spacious bag – say, a carpet bag or a backpack – with plenty of space for necessities.

Don’t be afraid to add a splash of colour. Grey suits can be styled with a red turtleneck as spotted at Versace.

73

Canali

1)

Salvatore Ferragamo

Style tips

BUYER

“THE FUTURE HAS ANCIENT ROOTS”

TOMBOLINI SS17

SUCH IS THE MOTTO OF TOMBOLINI, THE ITALIAN BRAND OF MEN’S CLOTHES, FOUNDED

BY EUGENIO TOMBOLINI IN HIS NATIVE TOWN OF URBISAGLIA IN 1964. THE BRAND HIT THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET IN THE EARLY 1970S AND BEGAN SELLING ITS COLLECTIONS IN THE USA. WE SPOKE TO FABRIZIO PISANI, EXPORT MANAGER OF THE COMPANY, ABOUT THE TRADITIONAL VALUES AND INNOVATIONS, OF WHICH TOMBOLINI IS EQUALLY PROUD

Please tell us about Zero Gravity, your breakthrough line of suits — they don’t crease and you can fit one in your pocket!

We use super-lightweight fabrics to produce suits that weigh almost nothing, about 400 g. No doubt, these are the most lightweight suits in the world.

They fit the shape perfectly, and they are made of the purest wool, cashmere, silk, linen and cotton.

TOMBOLINI SS17

74

BUYER

Do you follow seasonal trends?

It is important for us to go with the times and to do research, so we combine various styles within each collection and use innovative fabrics to create classic images.

What does your Autumn–Winter 2017/18 collection feature?

It has a lot of graphic and visual patterns, and its colour range includes various shades of grey, from lighter ones to a very dark shade which is almost black. The Zero Gravity line features quite a bit of bouclé fabric, a mix of wool, cashmere, and mohair we have a bouclé coat made of jersey. Its colour palette is mostly made up of beige shades. The new season also features our classic aubergine colour as well as a bit of blue and purple - a nod to the traditional winter berries. We’ve expanded in the direction of “Innovation for Growth”. The key piece is a super-lightweight coat with a natural down filling.

Dynamic Blue, another line of ours, is distinguished by a mixture of wool and stretch fabric with regimental patterns, while our men’s suits feature large Prince of Wales checks in tartan-red.

Tombolini mainly deals in men’s clothes, but you also create women’s collections. Could you tell us more about these?

Our women’s line reflects the same philosophy. We pay special attention to research in materials, take care of every detail, and come up with timeless pieces, which are also on trend. Our jackets and trouser suits have a certain “architecture” about them, and they tailor themselves to your shape. We find inspiration in true women, who are sensual and keep up with the times. They appreciate the refined style and quality of Italian made products, care about the details, and never go unnoticed.

TOMBOLINI SS17

You recently debuted with the Zero Gravity perfume for men. Are there any other fragrances coming?

The Zero Gravity fragrance has a lot to do with Eugenio Tombolini’s native home and with the brand’s own history, which is 50 years long. Coming up with this eau de toilette was a way to remind our customers once again of the company’s background, of the elegance and nobility that have always been the hallmark of our collections. This fragrance was a real success in the market, so we plan to launch another, which will be just as modern and light.

launched new shops in Berlin, Astana and Beirut.

Now we’re going to focus on the markets of North America, the Middle East and Russia. We intend to come to the key cities in those regions, and we’re currently looking for partners in those areas.

What do social media and e-commerce mean for your business?

It is very important for us to keep abreast of the times, so Instagram and Facebook are crucial for us. We run pages on these sites, and they allow us to reach our customers anywhere in the world. As for e-commerce, we’re currently in cooperation with several major online boutiques, but we’re looking to launch our own e-commerce platform very soon to directly interact with our customers.

You have launched a whole set of monobrand boutiques all over the world in the recent years. How do you plan to further expand your network?

We intend to bring our total to 50 monobrand boutiques within the next two years. Last year, we

THE NEW TOMBOLINI COLLECTION IS

75

AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

Autumn/winter 17/18

TREND FORECASTING

BUYER CAUGHT UP WITH GALINA KRAVCHENKO, MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR AT THE FASHION CONSULTING GROUP AND HEAD OF THE REPRESENTATIVE OFFICE OF THE INTERNATIONAL TREND FORECASTING AGENCY FCG/FASHIONSNOOPS.COM, TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE WOMENSWEAR STAPLES FOR AW 2017/18

76

THE BOMBER Decorative elements and metallic fabrics add a glamorous touch to bomber jackets.

PHOTO: courtesy of FCG/fashionsnoops.com

THE COAT Coats, dusters and robes – all maxi – are essentials for the upcoming season.

BUYER

THE MIDI DRESS Midi dresses channel a distinctly feminine feel for women's wardrobes. AW 2017/18 sees plenty to choose from, from velvet garments and items in metallic tones to floral pieces.

THE PUSSY-BOW BLOUSE A bow blouse puts a romantic spin on any style, whether you prefer casual denim or stick to something formal and classic.

THE TURTLENECK Turtleneck sweaters and jumpers will be the most sought-after knitwear items in cold countries: they’re in (again), and they come in all shapes and sizes.

BUYER

THE OVERSIZED KNIT Oversized sweaters aren’t just about warmth. With an abundance of designs, stitches, and adornments like sequins and embroidery, they could easily become the feature piece of the AW look.

THE PLEATED SKIRT Another trend that evokes femininity: pleated skirts are a must-have for AW 2017/18 so buyers should take note. Knife pleats, accordion pleats, box pleats – there’s plenty to choose from.

THE SWEATSHIRT The popularity of the athleisure style has made the jersey sweatshirt a go-to item for all fans of cut-and-sew knitwear.

78

BUYER

THE MIDI SKIRT Cherchez la femme with the length of the season: the midi is the style to look for in AW 2017/18.

Look out for skirts of all textures and styles for all occasions.

THE BAGGY TROUSERS Clean-cut and austere, with a classic feel: this is the feel for baggy trousers in AW 2017/18. Designers have made them high-waisted and chosen rich hues, particularly camel.

79

BUYER

THE ANKLE BOOT What makes ankle boots fashion-forward in AW 17/18? Perfect fit, supreme comfort and mid heels.

They’ll walk right off the catwalk and into your heart.

THE BOOT Thigh-high boots are still in vogue, but as midi skirts make a comeback we’ll see more classic models stopping just under the knee.

THE SNEAKER Athleisure enthusiasts rejoice: sneakers are kicking out classic shoes and boots and AW 17/18 offers models to satisfy every taste.

THE SHOE Elegantly shaped and high-heeled: no wonder many women have a fetish for shoes.

Materials and colours are what matter in AW 17/18.

80

24-27 February 2017 fieramilanocity hall 3/4

Photo: Gautier Pellegrin – Styling: Luca Termine – Make up and hair: Cassandra Frua de Angeli – Creative idea: Matteo Antonielli – Coordination: Elena Rizzo – Layout: PaperPlane Factory

BUYER

Autumn/winter 17/18

WHAT BUYERS THINK

WE GATHERED A GROUP OF BUYERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD – FROM GERMANY TO CANADA – TO GRILL THEM ON WHICH AW 2017/18 COLLECTIONS THEY ARE DYING TO SEE, AS WELL AS DISCOVERING THEIR ABSOLUTE BESTSELLERS

WHAT FASHION WEEKS ARE YOU PLANNING TO ATTEND THIS SEASON?

and Paul Smith. We would like also to visit MAN and Tranoï while we’re there.

Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maastricht (Netherlands): We will be attending Fashion Week in Paris where we will be at the presentations of OAMC, Dries van Noten, Comme des Garçons, AMI

Nicole Mohrmann, nicolemohrmann.com, Munich (Germany): We’re going to Paris, Milan and NY. Tricia Kuo, Then and Now shop, London (UK): I'm only

attending London Fashion Week in person this year, but I will also follow the latest news for all other fashion weeks.

Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept Store, Shanghai (China): In Europe this season we are only going to Paris. We have our own

Alter Style 82

in-house brand Rolling Acid which is presenting its AW17 collection during Paris Fashion Week, which is why we’re focusing all our attention on Paris.

After Europe we will be at Shanghai Fashion Week and Tbilisi Fashion Week in early and mid April respectively.

BUYER

Wendy Bannerman, North 42, Toronto (Canada): Milan and Paris fashion weeks.

WHICH FASHION SHOWS AND COLLECTIONS AW 2017/18 CAN’T YOU WAIT TO SEE AND WHY?

We are dying to see what Francesco Risso will show at the first creative change Marni has ever seen. OAMC is gradually making a name for itself, and will be showing their AW17 collection on the runway for the first time. Always heavy with inspirational story-driven collections, we are excited to see what they will bring this time. Then we always love the extravagance of Dries van Noten catwalk silhouettes. Apart from the brands we carry in store ourselves, we are excited about a streetwear explosion from Raf Simons and Balenciaga. I’m also interested to see if Junya Watanabe will make a 180-degree turn again...

Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maastricht (Netherlands):

Joanna Davies, Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow

Joost van Dongen, Hunting Ensemble, Hertogenbosch (Netherlands): I will focus on Paris fashion week and maybe take in Copenhagen’s as well. It's a great way to visit all of our brands and partners. The trips aren't just for buying. It's great to catch up with all the brands, grab dinner together and have a few drinks. These cities are full of fashion-minded people which I find so inspiring.

(UK): DVF now that Jonathan Saunders is at the helm, always love Preen, Topshop Unique, House of Holland, Céline, Stella McCartney.

street. Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip Lim – these two, in my opinion, are the major brands leading sports trends.

Nicole Mohrmann, nicolemohrmann.com, Munich (Germany): Vivetta is my favourite collection.

It's always a very unique collection with lovely details and its own story –definitely a leader, not a follower, when it comes to fashion trends!

Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept Store, Shanghai (China): I’m awaiting with particular anticipation Y/ PROJECT’s show. Glenn Martens, the talented designer behind the brand, is full of imagination and creativity. Another collection that I am excited to see is FACETASM presented

by Hiromichi. His work represents both a remix of sportswear and laces, and a controlled punk aesthetic.

He was also shortlisted for the LVMH prize. Another LVMH award contestant (and previous winner) is Marques’Almeida. This label is bound to present some

Tricia Kuo, Then and Now shop, London (UK): Jeremy Scott, House of Holland and Moschino – I personally like the fun, excitement and unpredictability these brands bring each season.

Chanel – always brings the biggest influences to both haute couture and the high

83

BUYER

great pieces and I can’t wait to discover them too. I am also excited about Parisbased designer Esteban Cortazar.

Wendy Bannerman, North 42, Toronto (Canada): Dsquared2 – I love their unlimited creativity.

Joost van Dongen, Hunting Ensemble, Hertogenbosch (Netherlands): I always look forward to seeing the new collections from Our Legacy, Norse Projects and A.P.C., because they form the basis for our store’s collection.

One brand which has a special place in my heart is the Portuguese label La Paz; they make beautiful fishermen-inspired garments

which are all produced by hand in Portugal. Last but not least I'm looking forward seeing the collection from Japanese label nanamica. It focuses on technical gear like Goretex trenchcoats, woollen windbreakers and Coolmax sweats. Every item has a story to tell and is designed with nifty features.

The whole collection is based on layering so it looks so nice together.

WHICH TRENDS FROM THE PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS DO YOU THINK WILL SURVIVE IN THE UPCOMING AW 2017 SEASON? Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maastricht (Netherlands): Oversized and destroyed

Hunting Ensemble

84

garments, text print, embroidery, shearling, androgynous.

Joanna Davies, Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow (UK): Denim, comfort, texture, clashing prints, Gucci-inspired prints, oversized tailoring and luxeleisure.

Nicole Mohrmann, Nicolemohrmann.com, Munich (Germany): Definitely all kinds of patterns influenced by the seventies!

Tricia Kuo, Then and now shop, London (UK): Sports, metallic colours, animal prints, pleats, fun fur, shearling, embroidery.

Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept Store, Shanghai (China): Without a doubt we’re going to see plenty of sportswear again this season. Oversized bombers, sweatshirts and hoodies are here to stay. We will also see quite a few relaxed knits and flared trousers. I also think it will be a good time to suit up; strong shoulder suit sets and suit-style oversized blazers.

Wendy Bannerman, North 42, Toronto (Canada): In footwear the block heel as it can offer elongation of the leg without compromising your comfort or balance. In ready-to-wear it’s dresses dresses dresses!

Maxi, mini, architectural shapes. The exaggerated sleeve.

BUYER

Joost van Dongen, Hunting Ensemble, Hertogenbosch (Netherlands): I think we'll see a lot of technical inspired items with a minimalistic and functional approach. Good solid gear that will last. It's a strong trend which (in my opinion) is not bound to any season.

It's something that is becoming very important in the whole menswear industry; and is bringing it to a higher level.

WHAT ITEMS DO YOU ALWAYS SELL WELL INDEPENDENTLY OF TRENDS? Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maastricht (Netherlands): Wardrobe staples like classic

coats and waterproofs, suits, denim, parkas. Everything navy, anthracite and black.

Joanna Davies, Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow (UK): The eternal classics: Denim, tailored jackets, crisp white shirts, silk camisoles, lightweight cotton tees, jumpsuits.

Nicole Mohrmann, nicolemohrmann.com, Munich (Germany): All kind of accessories, especially scarves.

Tricia Kuo, Then and Now shop, London (UK): Black clothes and bags are still our bestselling items most of the time.

Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept Store, Shanghai (China): Basic pieces like sweatshirts and jeans always sell well regardless of seasonal trends. Basic tees and jerseys sell well too. If we’re talking specifically about the market we operate in, China, pink items are always in demand.

Wendy Bannerman, North 42, Toronto (Canada): Figure-fitting shaped dresses.

Joost van Dongen, Hunting Ensemble, Hertogenbosch (Netherlands): Good, highquality accessories such as bags, socks, leather goods and sunglasses. Japanese denim from A.P.C is also

Mohrmann Basics 85

something that we stock year round and sell around the globe.

WHAT ARE CUSTOMERS IN YOUR COUNTRY SEARCHING FOR TODAY IN TERMS OF TRENDS, QUALITY AND LOOK? Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maastricht (Netherlands): We tend to attract lots of clients in the creative industries. Sometimes not very trend focused, but always looking for quality, authenticity, originality and craftsmanship. Identity is key!

Joanna Davies, Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow (UK): Quality, great fit,

BUYER

longevity and something that has a unique feel about it. Customers want comfort, versatility and style: more than a one hit wonder!

Nicole Mohrmann, nicolemohrmann.com, Munich (Germany): I can’t speak for the country, but as for my customers, they are looking for unusual brands, designers and fashion pieces. They want something you can't find in every city and all over the internet!

They’re getting back to a more individual look.

Tricia Kuo, Then and Now shop, London (UK): In London, people are seeking to push the boundaries and experimenting with mix and match to create the most unique personalised look.

This includes vintage clothes, streetwear, affordable high street and haute couture. People are not afraid of expressing their personalities by wearing clothes that represent them the best.

Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept Store, Shanghai

(China): With the development of Shanghai Fashion Week and the rise of buyer boutiques in China, customers are engaging more and more with the fashion industry and are showing a strong interest.

They anticipate upcoming trends and embrace modern approaches to dressing as a way to express themselves.

In this regard people in Shanghai and wider China tend to always look out for trends. But regarding quality, Chinese customers still care strongly for the

traditional Chinese adage ‘thriftiness is a solid virtue’.

High quality designs built to last will always win over cheap, shoddy workmanship, no matter how great the design. As for the look, China’s younger generation from the 80s, 90s and 00s prefer to express more individualism and uniqueness, whilst still remaining sophisticated.

Wendy Bannerman, North 42, Toronto (Canada): A more sophisticated but urban look.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Vivetta

Facetasm 86

BUYER

Joost van Dongen, Hunting Ensemble, Hertogenbosch (Netherlands): We see a strong focus on well-made garments which exude quality and have a strong focus on detail and fit. All our brands are good examples of that.

Most of our customers make an informed choice and do not buy just a t-shirt or sweater, but a unique item which will last for seasons to come. Our customer appreciates quality but doesn't have to show that his clothes are more expensive than average. So no big logos, but keeping it clean.

ARE THERE ANY PROMISING DESIGNERS IN YOUR COUNTRY THAT INTERNATIONAL BUYERS SHOULD KEEP AN EYE ON? Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maastricht (Netherlands): You should definitely visit the Fashionclash Festival in Maastricht. The interdisciplinary festival is attracting good press and talent is discovered there on a regular basis.

Joanna Davies, Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow (UK): Rixo London is certain to be a success. We were the first stockist outside of

London and approached them as we could see the potential.

They are just about to be stocked on Net-A-Porter for the first time. It's nice to know we got there first!

Nicole Mohrmann, nicolemohrmann.com, Munich (Germany): I think Antonia Zander is doing a great job. She always designs the nicest cashmere collections!

Tricia Kuo, Then and Now shop, London (UK): Schrimps. I like the design of this brand as it has the fun elements of street styles in London.

Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept Store, Shanghai (China): I believe Rolling Acid has a lot of potential and buyers should definitely keep an eye on it. Other brands that are definitely worth noting are Chrisou By Dan, Xander Zhou, and Shushu/Tong.

Joost van Dongen, Hunting Ensemble, Hertogenbosch (Netherlands): I came across a brand called Separaet. It's still in the startup phase but they design beautiful belts and leather goods such as wallets and keychains. Everything is made by hand in the Netherlands and Europe. They plan to expand with clothing as well.

Dsquared2

Diane von Furstenberg 87

Stella McCartney

Photo: courtesy of Kick Pleat press office

S T R AT E G I E S

'I want to promote good designers and elevate them as their success will do the same for m y b u s i n e s s i n r e t u r n .'

We n d i Ko l e t a r M a r t i n , K i c k P l e a t

BUYER

THE STAR OF THE MIDDLE EAST INGIE CHALHOUB OPENED THE FIRST EVER CHANEL BOUTIQUE IN THE MIDDLE EAST IN 1983. SINCE THEN SHE’S EXPERIENCED A METEORIC RISE AS HER FASHION EMPIRE, THE ETOILE GROUP HAS EXPANDED TO OVER 80 LUXURY STORES IN THE REGION. IN 2005 SHE LAUNCHED ETOILE ‘LA BOUTIQUE’, REVOLUTIONISING THE APPAREL INDUSTRY AND INTRODUCING A GALAXY OF THE LATEST FASHION NAMES. A FEW YEARS LATER CHALHOUB STARTED HER OWN DEMI-COUTURE LINE, ‘INGIE PARIS’ WHICH COMBINES FRENCH CRAFTSMANSHIP AND MIDDLE EASTERN GLAMOUR

INTERVIEW: Michela Zio PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

You feature a lot of new names in your stores. Why did you initially choose to focus on emerging designers?

I definitely believe in the importance of focusing on emerging designers because they are the future of the fashion industry.

I see so much talent around me and it makes me proud to support it and watch it grow. Our customers and fashion shoppers in general are looking for creations that are unique, different and personal. Emerging designers are not only bringing that to the table but also receiving considerable international recognition for their efforts.

Being a pioneer of fashion-forward brands for your region, has it ever been difficult for you to educate your clients on new labels and on the latest trends?

Middle Eastern clients are very sophisticated, worldly and cultured. They are jetsetters and fashionistas, travelling the world not only to be inspired by international fashion but most likely to influence it. In other words, they are either keenly aware of the latest international trends or very likely to be the trendsetters themselves! In addition to this, the reputation of Etoile ‘La boutique’ has meant our loyal clients have always been receptive to the new fashion labels and trends that our various stores explore. We are very aware of our customers’

INGIE CHALHOUB

ETOILE ‘LA BOUTIQUE’

90

BUYER

brand name of INGIE Paris. Now, INGIE Paris collections are part of the Chambre Syndical de la Mode’s official calendar and we have three boutiques, in Saudi Arabia, Abu Dhabi and Kuwait as well as a collection within Le Bon Marché and Luisa Via Roma.

How do you think the fashion industry will develop in the Middle East in the near future?

Fashion is becoming international: accessible and individual at the same time. I can definitely see that Middle Eastern fashion is developing to international standards as customers become more and more exposed to the global fashion scene. The Middle Eastern woman also demands individuality and is always looking for unique and one-of-a-kind items, and I don’t see that changing in the near future.

What’s next for your business?

We continue to drive forward with international expansion but our vision remains the same: to be the Middle Eastern leader in luxury retail and creativity, for our brand partners, for our multibrand concept Etoile ‘La boutique’ and for our own luxury line INGIE Paris.

needs and tastes and we tailor our collections to them. Each Etoile ‘La boutique’ is unique to each city.

How have the your customers’ tastes changed in recent years?

With globalisation and the wide spread of digital and e-commerce, customers are now exposed to international trends and happenings as they take place anywhere in the world. This also means that their tastes are now completely international. Time and distance are no barrier now, which means that customers are more demanding and more sophisticated than ever. If you don’t have all the latest trends and hottest brands available for them, they are now able to order them from anywhere else in the world.

Why did you decide to start your own brand INGIE Paris?

I have always had fashion and creativity running in my veins. As I ventured further into the luxury fashion business, I took the next step of creating a few designs and actually producing and showcasing them at Etoile ‘La boutique’. Based on great feedback from my customers and commercial success, I started introducing more and more looks into my collection under the INGIE PARIS

91

BUYER

HOW TECHNOLOGY HAS CHANGED THE FACE OF RETAIL IN OUR TECHNOLOGICAL AGE, BRICK-AND-MORTAR STORES ALL AROUND THE WORLD ARE STRUGGLING TO DELIVER THE FLAWLESS SHOPPING EXPERIENCE CUSTOMERS INCREASINGLY EXPECT. STEVE GOLDBERG, PRESIDENT OF RETAIL CONSULTANCY FIRM THE GRAYSON COMPANY, WHOSE CLIENT LIST INCLUDES TOMMY HILFIGER, COLE HAAN AND UGG AUSTRALIA, HAS SOME TRICKS UP HIS SLEEVE. WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM TO LEARN MORE

92

BUYER

Customers have less and less time to shop. How should luxury multibrand stores adapt in terms of visual merchandising, product offering and back office support?

Our advice is to make sure that your visual presentation is extremely clear and really emphasises key products.

Don’t try to show too much at once. Today less is more.

It is also incredibly important to ensure that key items are in stock. Customers become very frustrated when they spot items they love but you can’t provide them in their favourite colours and in the right sizes. This seems like such basic thing but it’s become more important than ever.

What can retailers do to meet or even excel shoppers’ expectations? Private events, pop-up shops maybe?

Initiatives like ‘clientelling’ are great for establishing longterm relationships with key customers, especially when the retailer has collected data about their preferences and likes. True one-to-one customer relationships help you to get to know your customers better and offer them something special that goes beyond just shopping.

Private events are especially important if they support a social cause – a charity fundraiser, or an event organised in response to some other issue which is important to the community or to your key customer group. As for pop-up shops, of course, they can create excitement but they don’t always have much of a lasting impact. Moreover these initiatives are expensive for a

store and can be distracting for customers so they need to be well thought out and precisely targeted with your business goals and your clientele in mind.

How can small multibrand stores create a functional and effective omnichannel strategy?

I think the key is the staff, particularly for these sorts of shops. Smaller stores need staff who are really savvy and aware of what’s on the website before customers visit. There needs to be a perfect alignment between the web content and what’s in the store. Both need equal care and attention. Of course, building an effective mobile strategy is extremely important for every retailer whether big or small. If your website doesn’t have a mobile-enabled design, you’re going to lose out. All your customers are on mobiles, so you can’t ignore it.

Some shops are trying to create a completely new shopping experience using technologies such as digital mirrors, outfit suggestions etc. Does this always add more value to the customer journey?

These things are very nice to have and they certainly appear attractive for the customers. It makes the clients’ experience more interesting and impactful, but these technologies also have to provide a meaningful experience for the customer.

Shopping technology has to be a full investment, not only of money but also of time.

You have to train your staff to be totally comfortable with these technologies if they

are to become really useful to clients. Retailers who are new to technology can start with easier and less complicated technologies to see how their core clients respond to a digital experience: for example, using iPads instead of a traditional cash register.

This doesn’t work in every type of environment, but it can be a terrific experience.

What, in your opinion, is the right balance between live and digital shopping experiences?

For the moment 90% of retail sales are still occurring in physical stores, but the balance is changing, and merchants should be aware that these changes are not going to go away. They have to work on both shopping experiences: offline and online. Store owners should remember that the presentation of products in the store needs to be expressed in the same way digitally. Two different identities will confuse your customers. Clarity and consistency is the key. Your website should hold up a mirror to your brick-and-mortar identity, in order to impart a strong brand message and build customer loyalty.

What do you think the brick-and-mortar multibrand stores of the future will look like?

In the future (which, by the way, is here today) there will be more and more sophisticated technologies and ways for the customer to shop. We think there will be fewer 93

STEVE GOLDBERG

registers and more tablets, less engagement with store assistants and more digital services. Right now you can buy online and have your purchase delivered in store, and we will see more of that.

There will also be scenarios where customers can request and order things directly in the store and have them delivered to them before they leave the store. In this new retail environment the most important thing will be to train the staff properly to guarantee the system runs like clockwork.

Stores will increasingly use digital beacons which helps gather data and give more information about the customers coming in. And just as the customer service teams of the big mobile phone companies know who you are as soon as you call, so too will shops. It might feel intrusive at first, but it will become normal quite quickly.

BUYER

“BE EARLY, DON’T BE LATE” KICK PLEAT WAS BORN IN TEXAS AS A BRICK AND MORTAR STORE 13 YEARS AGO. NOW THE BRAND HAS SHOPS IN AUSTIN AND HOUSTON AND A THRIVING WEBSITE WHICH WAS FIRST LAUNCHED IN 2008. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE OWNER, WENDI KOLETAR MARTIN, ABOUT HER ONLINE STRATEGY AND THE IMPORTANCE OF STAYING UP TO DATE INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

How much is the e-commerce project linked to the physical stores?

The website is its own entity but it’s closely connected to the physical stores: the designers, prices and products are the same. It all cohesively represents the Kick Pleat brand.

Were there any difficulties that you ran into when building up the e-commerce version of your store?

There are always challenges when it comes to an e-commerce store, just like any business. The website is a different platform where a different skill set is needed. I work continuously with programmers, stylists, photographers and models to make the visual aspects work but the back-end specifics like search engine optimisation offer continually changing challenges where there is always more to learn.

How do you continue to engage with your original customers from the physical stores and how do you attract the new ones?

We have a very personal relationship with our customers. We know their names and their style and lead them to the pieces that we know they’ll love.

Service is a top priority in my business.

Whether it’s a customer who has shopped with us a while or someone just walking in the door, we aim to deliver 94

BUYER

the very best service as this is what brings people back (along with beautiful garments). Attracting new customers is always a consideration. I personally think that people are attracted to beauty and branding that is done well. Having all of our social media, images and anything that the public can see or experience, maintain consistency with our branding is very important. When a new customer sees the brand the goal is that they would want to know more. We take pride in hosting great events in the store.

“Journal” is a section on your website where you introduce new designers to your customers. Is researching new designers crucial for you and how do you select them?

I always have my eye out for great new designers. Finding great designers early and growing together is key to our concept. I research in all different kinds of ways – magazines, blogs, recommendations, searching the market. I keep my eyes and ears open and I always take the time to look when 95

someone sends me details of their line.

You never know, it may be something great! With regards to Journal, I think that a lot of our customers want to know more about our designers and find it interesting to hear about their inspiration and processes. It’s not just a shopping transaction. It’s a series of personal relationships, from the customer to Kick Pleat to the designer.

I want to promote good designers and elevate them as their success will do the same for my business in return.

BUYER

How would you define your target audience? Are you planning to expand it and how?

My target audience is the woman who independently dresses for herself. She is well travelled, educated, and has her own sense of style. She is looking for timeless, superior, comfortable pieces.

She invests in her clothing, shoes, and accessories as she wants to keep her pieces forever. She is looking for quality, not quantity. I am inspired by my customers all the time. I just opened a second location in Houston, Texas, so we now have two physical locations as well as our online platform. I am always wondering how we can expand our audience, it’s so hard to predict what will work. Ultimately making sure that your brand is always creating great content and staying true to the ethos of the brand is most important. People are drawn to beauty and will be more interested in your business for it.

Is there a best way to receive feedback from customers?

I’ll take it anyway they want to give it to us – email, phone, in person. Everyone prefers something different and we always want to learn and grow from what our customers have to say. As building personal relationships with our customers is so important to us, hearing feedback is always welcome.

What is the role of social networks in your business and how, in your opinion, are sites such as Facebook and Instagram transforming fashion retail? Do you like these changes?

I resisted these changes at first but quickly discovered that that was a mistake. A successful friend once told me, “be early, don’t be late”, and that’s great advice. There are so many ways to get your brand out there now. The challenge is making sure that your brand continues to look consistent on all of these different social channels.

You can’t just give fifty percent to any of them as it’ll hurt your business. I think that they’re transforming fashion retail because people are so informed and connected now. It’s a very good thing.

96

BUYER

How do you stay up-to-date in a market that is constantly changing?

It is a never-ending process and there is never a moment where you can say 'I'm done' and stop. Not only is the market constantly changing but the methods that you have to use to stay on top of the market are constantly changing too.

I concentrate more on keeping my brand fresh and consistent. Doing what we do well and staying very clear on what that is.

What is your approach to your staff?

What are the essential skills you care about?

I approach my staff openly and with humor, I ask questions to get their perspective and take it into consideration when making decisions about the brand.

I have high standards for my staff. I expect professionalism and for everyone to do their job well. If that’s happening, we have fun and laugh a lot. If not, an honest conversation is had and hopefully we all move on. The goal is that people are inspired by working at Kick Pleat and that we do great things together for the good of both the brand and our customers.

MY TARGET AUDIENCE IS THE WOMAN WHO INDEPENDENTLY DRESSES FOR HERSELF. SHE IS WELL TRAVELLED, EDUCATED, AND HAS HER OWN SENSE OF STYLE. SHE IS LOOKING FOR TIMELESS, SUPERIOR, COMFORTABLE PIECES. SHE INVESTS IN HER CLOTHING, SHOES, AND ACCESSORIES AS SHE WANTS TO KEEP HER PIECES FOREVER. SHE IS LOOKING FOR QUALITY, NOT QUANTITY. I AM INSPIRED BY MY CUSTOMERS ALL THE TIME

97

BUYER

GREAT OPPORTUNITIES THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION LAUNCHED RUSSIA’S FIRST QUALITY MARK FOR FASHION RETAIL STORES — THE BEST LUXURY STORES — IN 2016. NOW THE UNION PLANS TO CONTINUE SUPPORTING HIGH-END MULTIBRAND BOUTIQUES AS WELL AS GENERATING LUCRATIVE OPPORTUNITIES FOR BUYERS IN ALL SEGMENTS OF THE MARKET. THE UNION’S PRESIDENT ELENA BUGRANOVA TALKS OVER THEIR PLANS AND DEVELOPMENTS

At the end of 2016 The Best Luxury Stores Award ceremony was held in the Lotte Hotel Moscow, accompanied by a professional forum. Tell us more about these events.

They were, first of all, a celebration, both for us and for all the buyers who came there to attend workshops and receive the welldeserved Best Luxury Stores Award. You see, buyers usually stay behind the scenes.

Even though they are an important link in the fashion supply chain, they are seldom given any limelight. We have tried to help them gain recognition and to establish a platform where they can share their experiences and love of their job with their colleagues, as well as exchange ideas. Of course, to organise it all was a tremendous task, but that is true of any grand celebration. We invited both Russian and overseas experts to give lectures, organised a dinner party for 200 people and ran an entertainment programme with star performances, fashion shows and speeches from Russia's leading buyers.

What will The Best Luxury Stores project see in 2017?

Last year we awarded the best womenswear stores, and this year we are going to expand our scope and include buyers who deal in menswear and children’s clothing. Our annual Best Luxury Stores Awards ceremony, which takes place in November, will encompass all three segments, but for each one we are going to publish a separate book entitled ‘Russia's Top 100 Fashion Boutiques’ listing the best high-end stores.

How are you going to reach out to stores that work in other segments?

The Best Luxury Stores forum was a success, and using this experience we are going to develop an educational and training programme for buyers. In May there will be workshops as part of the Kids’ Fashion Awards 98

BUYER

event for buyers working in the children's clothes segment. Besides live lectures and seminars we are going to start running online courses which will make the project available for buyers from any region. We are also launching an updated version of our website soon, where every union member will have a personal account and be able to access special content, training courses and the market’s best offers.

The Russian Buyers Union collaborates with the Via Del Buyer online platform.

How can buyers benefit from using it?

As the job of a buyer is becoming more

and more complex and diverse, Via Del Buyer helps to make the buying process simpler and easier. When I was looking for new brands for my own boutiques and ordering from them online it struck me how much time and effort I could save by using the internet and not having to travel everywhere myself. We believe that the future lies with technology. They won’t replace brick-and-mortar stores but will facilitate their development. It fashion world is changing, there are new ways to make your performance more efficient, and we are happy to help Russian buyers become more successful and productive.

EVEN THOUGH BUYERS ARE AN IMPORTANT LINK IN THE FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN, THEY ARE SELDOM GIVEN ANY LIMELIGHT. WE HAVE TRIED TO HELP THEM GAIN RECOGNITION AND TO ESTABLISH A PLATFORM WHERE THEY CAN SHARE EXPERIENCES WITH THEIR COLLEAGUES, AS WELL AS EXCHANGE IDEAS

99

BUYER

STYLE BEFORE FASHION

A LOS ANGELES BASED E-COMMERCE PROJECT, THE DRESLYN GOES FAR BEYOND JUST FASHION, ALSO OFFERING CLIENTS BEAUTY PRODUCTS, HOME DÉCOR PIECES AND GIFT IDEAS. WE ASKED THE CEO AND FOUNDER OF THE ONLINE BOUTIQUE, BROOKE TAYLOR CORCIA, HOW SHE BUILT UP SUCH A COMPLEX WEBSITE INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

The Dreslyn is a lifestyle project with many sections. What were the main difficulties you ran into when building it up?

The growth into multiple departments was always planned into our trajectory.

Tell us about your target audience.

Our core audience consists of confident, tech-savvy, urban, educated women aged 25-45, who have a strong sense of self and appreciate timeless, quality goods.

How do you engage with the customers who already know you and how do you attract new ones?

We host local pop-up warehouse sales biannually at the end of each season, as well as select press events as projects dictate, but we don’t generally invest in offline events.

All the initiatives we host are attended by clients who interact with our brand through our online platform first. We capture most our traffic organically but we do invest in online advertising, social media, press and newsletter marketing to attract new users.

Is this your first e-commerce website and how it was born?

I was first introduced to e-commerce in 2008 when, as the Senior Buyer for Canadian retailer SSENSE, I launched and developed the womenswear department and fell in love with online retail. With the rise of social media, I noticed a shift in consumer behaviour and saw an opportunity in the market for a focused, specialty store model with a west-coast perspective. In 2013 The Dreslyn was born and the rest is history.

How strategic are channels such as newsletter and social networks for you?

Marketing channels like newsletters and social media are extremely important for our business and for furthering the conversation between our brand and our clients. The Dreslyn emerged as a complement to evolving social media and shopping behaviour online, so we use these tools to capture our audience’s needs.

Every day brings new challenges, so being flexible and finding opportunity in adversity is critical. Communicating, listening, and leaning on one another is what defines our success.

100

Which is the best way for you to receive feedback from your customers?

Personally! Our foundation is built upon having an engaging dialogue with our audience. We love to hear from clients by phone, email and social media.

You also communicate with your clients through the stars. Tell us more about the

BUYER

Our foundation is built upon having an engaging dialogue with our audience.

We love to hear from clients by phone, email and social.

unusual section, 'Horoscopes', where you also suggest a look for each astrological sign.

The AstroTwins are the official astrologers of ELLE.com and Elle Australia. We collaborate with them to deliver credible, professional readings each month. It's a way to entertain our audience and deliver content that is beyond the typical shopping channels. They also have features in the New York Times Sunday Styles section, People Magazine and Vogue.

Do you see growth in orders from mobile users? How do you think customer behaviour will change in the near future?

We’ve seen an incredible increase in mobile traffic and conversions, and design the site with mobile in mind. I think we will see continued growth in mobile shopping as these devices become even more ubiquitous.

Is research of new designers and brands crucial for you and how do you select them?

Supporting new talent is crucial for our business, both as a point of differentiation and a way to excite and inspire our audience.

Our site presents a focused point-of-view so I look for lines that can sit within The Dreslyn aesthetic while offering a new, unique perspective that adds value to our offering.

What is your approach to building your team?

My approach is to find talented individuals who will contribute to a positive culture first and foremost. Skills are teachable, talent; personality and humility are not. I look for people with passion and initiative who can lead and problem-solve on a high level.

We run the office with a significant amount of trust and freedom and this requires individuals who are comfortable making decisions, and taking responsibility for successes and failures equally.

101

MY APPROACH IS TO FIND TALENTED INDIVIDUALS WHO WILL CONTRIBUTE TO A POSITIVE CULTURE FIRST AND FOREMOST. SKILLS ARE TEACHABLE; TALENT, PERSONALITY AND HUMILITY ARE NOT

BUY FOR YOUR SHOP AS EASY AS FOR YOURSELF FINDING AMAZING NEW BRANDS FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND PL ACING ORDERS WITH JUST FEW CLICKS BRINGS BU Y ING TO A WHOLE NE W LE V EL .

H E R E I S H O W TO G E T S TA R T E D

1.

Regis ter at w w w.viadelbuyer.com

Tip:Do you have any question?

Tex t the brand about it!

3.

Send connection requests to brands you choose

Tip: Find the most relevant articles for buyers in the Weekly Digest

2.

Browse the Journal to study trends and discover new designers

Tip: Find conditions, delivery dates and other details on the side

4.

Place orders of what you love!

BUYER

ON THE LIGHT SIDE THERE ARE MANY ELEMENTS THAT CONTRIBUTE TO THE BEST POSSIBLE DISPLAY OF THE GOODS IN A STORE, AND ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ROLES IS PLAYED BY THE ILLUMINATION. EXPERT ON THE SUBJECT, FOUNDER OF NLT COMPANY MIKHAIL GUSMANOV, GIVES A FULL TECHNICAL GUIDE TO CHOOSING THE BEST LIGHTING OPTIONS FOR HIGHLIGHTING FASHION GOODS

In today's boutiques, LED lights are supplanting metal halide lamps. Whilst LEDs ensure a high colour rendering index (CRI) and a powerful flow of light, they also emit infrared and

ultraviolet rays. This can have an adverse impact on leather and fur items as well as on fabrics of a delicate texture, such as silk or velvet.

Leather footwear can fade and dry, and bright-coloured 104

fabrics may have their shades altered. Thankfully today’s LED technologies have minimized this influence.

LED lights are minimalistic, environmentally-friendly, and powerful. They have a high

colour rendering index and energy efficiency. However, not all LEDs are up to the requirements of the premium retailer. There are a few parameters that need special attention:

BUYER

• To ensure high illumination intensity, a lamp must have a luminous flux of at least 3,500–4,000 lm/W. • To avoid altering the colours of clothes, the colour rendering index (CRI) must be over 90. CRI standards of 80+ are in wide use in the mass market and middle segments.

• The luminous flux distribution angle must be selected wisely. If the shop has very high ceilings, the angle must be kept below 50–60 degrees. If the light is installed at a height of 3–3.5 metres, angles of 38–40 degrees are best. To ensure spot lighting and high illumination intensity in shop windows, narrower angles, such as 24 degrees, can be used.

• Avoid using cold light for illumination in shops of clothes and footwear. It may seem brighter but it also alters the perception of colors and quickly tires the eyes. If the collections in the shop feature bright coloured prints, use warm white light of color temperatures of 2,700–3,000 K. If a range features furs, as well as black, white, blue, grey, or dark grey shades, white light (4,000 K) is best, as it does not alter any colours.

• The lighting levels in premium segment shops must be 1,200 to 1,500 lx (lux), and in mass market and middle segment shops, up to 800 lux on the sales surface, 1.6–1.7 m above the floor.

This is the level for a customer of average height to see items in front of them. The higher the class of a shop is, the higher the lights should be positioned.

The most important thing is to create the cosy atmosphere of a home in a boutique. This is achieved by using soft lighting and ensures that nothing will distract the customer and they can fully concentrate on the products. Many luxury shops employ lighting of individual items, which means having a separate light for each bag and each pair of footwear.

Today, LED lights can be easily mounted into the ceiling, walls, and built-in recesses, so that they occupy minimum space and become inconspicuous within the design of the shop. Today’s track lightings are also easy to make invisible by installing them onto a busbar hidden in the suspended ceiling or in special recesses in the ceiling. An LED strip, used to illuminate items on shelves, can also be hidden from view. It must have a power of at least 10 W per linear metre. A power of 4–5 W is just not enough for the lamps to supply the luminous flux needed. Most strips offered in today’s market have a low colour rendering index.

While general illumination in boutiques has a high CRI standard of 90 and above, LED strips usually have a CRI of 60–70. This, in practice, causes footwear and accessories to have one colour when on the shelf, and a completely different one in the room.

MIKHAIL GUSMANOV

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO CREATE THE COSY ATMOSPHERE OF A HOME IN A BOUTIQUE. THIS IS ACHIEVED BY USING SOFT LIGHTING AND ENSURES THAT NOTHING WILL DISTRACT THE CUSTOMER AND THEY CAN FULLY CONCENTRATE ON THE PRODUCTS. MANY LUXURY SHOPS EMPLOY LIGHTING OF INDIVIDUAL ITEMS, WHICH MEANS HAVING A SEPARATE LIGHT FOR EACH BAG AND EACH PAIR OF FOOTWEAR

The correct illumination of fitting rooms is also important.

This is can be ensured by using sources of lights installed above, such as downlights or wall-mounted sconces. In many cases, such lights don’t supply enough

light and alter the overall look, which can lead the customer to make a wrong decision. It’s best, therefore, to use LED lamps in fitting rooms as well.

To avoid errors when positioning and designing illumination, buyers can

105

employ a specialist company with relevant experience.

These companies can use 3D modelling systems to plan the illumination levels in a sales area, optimize the number of lights and determine their specifications.

BUYER

T H E FA S H I O N VA N G UA R D THE OWNERS OF FOUR MA JOR EUROPE AN SHOWROOMS DISCUSS THEIR KE Y BR ANDS AND MARKE TS, REC ALL HOW IT ALL STARTED, AND SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS FOR THE FUTURE

RICCARDO GRASSI RICCARDO GRASSI, WHO OWNS ONE OF ITALY'S FINEST CONCEPT SHOWROOMS, TELLS BUYER ABOUT HIS FIRST STEPS INTO THE FASHION WORLD AND THE INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS THAT FOLLOWED INTERVIEW: Michela Zio

RICCARDO GRASSI

How did you start your career?

It all began 35 years ago in Florence. I would take a big bag and shuttle between Aosta and Palermo to offer my clothes directly to the stores.

and secured our international image as a showroom offering rare products.

And what was next?

I had success in Florence where I worked in Studio Zeta with Mauro Galligari, and then moved to a temporary showroom in Milan.

You made this big leap then, at the same time that you moved to the former storage building at Via Friuli. What new names did you bring onto the market from there?

Neil Barrett, Kathrine Hamnett, Antonio Marras, Albino and many more.

What made you unique?

In a time when every store sold diffusion lines of major brands I focused on young designers. In Italy in the second half of the 1980s there were 300 high-end stores at most. We arranged a distribution system with them and began launching new names. In the early 90s we settled in Milan 106

For example?

We represented Martin Margiela.

Five years later your career took another turn. Tell us more about that.

I left Studio Zeta to focus on my own showroom. I built contacts with the best retailers and set up several services, like e-land for online sales.

BUYER

Your showroom in the Porta Vittoria district in Milan covers 5000m2 and you also have a Paris division. How many brands do you represent?

We work with brands from A to W, from Adam Lippes to Walk of shame. Overall, there are about 30 brands.

Who are the most renowned designers that your showroom helped to launch?

Marco de Vincenzo, Fausto Puglisi and Giambattista Valli.

107

Where do you search for young talent?

My core staff is only 35 people, which becomes 120 during the selling season. Twenty-five of them are constantly travelling around the world to find out what the retailers are seeking and tap the mood of the market. I’m lucky to continue to grow, and work at wonderful projects and launch superb brands like Vilshenko from Russia or Goen J from Korea.

BUYER

RAINBOWWAVE MARIA LEMOS LAUNCHED RAINBOWWAVE IN 2002. TODAY THE LONDON-BASED MULTIBRAND SHOWROOM HAS BRANCHES IN PARIS AND NEW YORK, AND A PR DIVISION THAT HELPS BRANDS TO DEVELOP AN EFFICIENT PROMOTION STRATEGY INTERVIEW: Alisa Nesterova You’ve introduced a lot of names onto the international market. Who are your clients?

Since launching Rainbowwave we have represented many designers, some of whom are now highly successful and renowned, like J.W.Anderson, or Peter Pilotto. It’s a pleasure to watch these brands growing and bring their performance to a new level every season. We began collaborating with American designers when we opened a showroom in New York two and a half years ago. We’re working with Gabriela Hearst, a very promising young label, and Rosetta Grey. We brought both to the attention of the international fashion circles. We also represent Re/Done, one of the most fascinating contemporary denim labels. But you can never tell how things will turn out. J.W.Anderson was an instant

success, it simply rocketed. Now we are keeping an eye on Koché, another client of ours. Its founder Christelle Koche makes mind-blowing street couture pieces, and she’s also the Artistic Director of Maison D'art Lemarié.

Where should one look for bright young talents?

In Russia, Eastern Europe in general, and in Asia. But you can find them anywhere. The fashion world has dropped the stereotype that the best designers come from and study in the UK, the USA or Italy.

Speaking about the UK — there are a lot of prominent talents there. Which are your personal favourites?

Peter Pilotto! And J.W.Anderson, Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Roksanda who are 108

all flourishing. Then there is Michael Halpern, he’s a young designer, but he is already much talked of. I think he has great potential. One of my personal favourites is Toogood. Its founder worked in design before she started the label, so she mixes design and fashion and her view of fashion is very fresh. I think that we’re living in a world where art, fashion and design are parts of a whole, and brands that can switch between these are particularly interesting.

What are your criteria for selecting a brand?

In the beginning, we simply had to love the products to take on a designer, but today we consider many factors. Do they have enough money to make collections? Because it is an expensive thing. Is the com-

BUYER

MARIA LEMOS

pany well-organised? Does it know how to do business? Manufacturing is a crucial aspect: It must run smoothly for us to take on a brand. We work with designers whose collections are already on the market, but it’s not a mandatory requirement.

We have labels — Ancient Greek Sandals, or Gabriela Hearst — that we picked and built onto the market from scratch.

How do you manage to cater to the tastes of clients from different countries?

I used to think of the American market as not so different from ours, since we all speak English, but when we were preparing to open our New York showroom, there turned out to be a whole lot of differences. The US buyers are much more conservative when selecting designers. In Europe, each country also has its own ways. For example, you do buying differently in France than in the UK. Even in our own country, the way things are done in London is very different from the rest of England. That’s why we have a client relationship manager for every area. These executives are responsible for different countries, where they regularly go and conduct business. So, when we start working with a new brand they can either say, yes, it will sell well in my part of the world, or no, it won't do very well.

What countries have the most active buyers?

Online shops are the most active, and with respect to offline retailers, we have been working steadily with buyers from Korea, Japan, China, and Eastern Europe. Australian buyers are increasingly eager to work with us, and we are also monitoring India. Indian buyers haven’t shown much interest yet, but it’s likely to happen very soon. The situation is more complicated in the USA. There are many brands offering similar collections and 109

the sales start very early, which is not favourable for stores there.

What are your plans for the business?

We position ourselves as a show-room boutique that stocks an eclectic mix of products, dealing in jewellery, menswear, and contemporary fashion, to name a few.

We have recently opened our branch in New York, so we are still beginners on the American market and our primary goal is to get ourselves established there, and only then start growing.

BUYER

STUDIO ZETA MAURO GALLIGARI STARTED HIS CAREER IN FASHION IN FLORENCE. LITTLE DID HE KNOW THIS CAREER WOULD LEAD HIM TO FOUND STUDIO ZETA, ONE OF THE EUROPE’S MOST INFLUENTIAL SHOWROOMS INTERVIEW: Michela Zio

Why Florence? What were the first brands you worked with?

Florence is my home town. Back then, the Pitti Trend exhibition was held there.

It was a real hothouse for talented emerging designers. I presented their work to my first clients — Luisa Via Roma, Bonvicini from Montecatini, Sugar from Arezzo. I would approach each of them with collections from Fabrizio del Carlo,

Emilio Cavallini and Roberto Tirelli.

These are the legends of Italian fashion.

40 womenswear collections, as well as accessories.

When did you decide it was time to move to Milan?

In 1988. We had our small headquarters in Via Spartaco, then moved to Via Friuli 64, and in 1997 settled where we are now. Our showroom covers 3500m2 and offers 20 menswear collections and

How has your job changed over the years?

Things were much simpler 30 years ago.

All you had to do was to know how to represent your clients and to have an eye for beautiful things. Now I must be an all-round professional, an expert

110

BUYER

YOU MUST BE ABLE TO RECOGNISE TRUE TALENT WHEN YOU SEE IT, AND BE ABLE TO IDENTIFY EXACTLY WHAT DIFFERENT MARKETS WILL WANT. YOU MUST ALWAYS BE READY TO OFFER THEM SOMETHING NEW. SO WE ARE CONSTANTLY ON THE LOOKOUT FOR THE NEXT BIG THING, VISITING INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS, PARTICULARLY LARGE TEXTILE TRADE SHOWS

on materials and manufacturing, and a sophisticated retailer.

The Studio Zeta showroom has always been renowned for its unique selection of brands and its penchant for young designers. How do you hunt for new names?

You must be able to recognise true talent when you see it, and be able to identify exactly what different markets will want.

You must always be ready to offer them something new. So we are constantly on the lookout for the next big thing, visiting international exhibitions, particularly large textile trade shows.

Studio Zeta offers its clients a special service that starts with fabrics. How does that work?

When we develop trends for upcoming seasons we first choose the hottest colours and then we move on to

materials, shapes and styling. We pass all of this information on to our brands’ designers, so they can tailor their new collections to our clientele’s tastes much more effectively.

Which markets show the greatest demand for your products?

Our major market is Russia and most of the former Soviet states, then Southeast Asia, China, Italy, the Middle East, Europe, Japan and the USA. In total we have more than 1300 clients all over the world.

What prominent names have you introduced to the market?

Martin Margiela, Antonio Marras, Giambattista Valli and MSGM. These are already established brands. As for today, I think Daizy Shely, Christian Pellizzari, Stefano De Lellis and Daniele Carlotta are the ones to watch.

111

MAURO GALLIGARI

BUYER

THE ALPHABET THE ALPHABET, FOUNDED BY ELLEN LEUNG, SPECIALISES IN FINDING AND FOSTERING INDEPENDENT BRANDS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. ITS CLIENTS INCLUDE SINGLE BOUTIQUES AS WELL AS LARGER CHAINS AND DEPARTMENT STORES INTERVIEW: Alisa Nesterova

Your company has offices in London and Paris. How are the different functions distributed?

Our London office mainly deals with the routine matters necessary to operate the company, while the one in Paris has the showroom. We believe that Paris is the right city for the showroom as most buyers still go there to make their purchases. The French capital hosts numerous fashion exhibitions, so it’s a strategically important location for us. We also exhibit a section of our collections in London, as part of the Designer Showrooms project that takes place during the fashion week there.

ELLEN LEUNG

Where and how do you select brands for your showroom?

We look for them everywhere. There are no set locations. All we need is for a brand to interest us, whether it be with its quality, colour range or some particularities. We do not rely on any 112

single style as we strive to offer diverse collections to buyers. We travel the world to find our collections. We might get a recommendation of a promising brand, but we follow our feelings. If we believe in a designer, then they’re a good fit for us.

What brands would you recommend buyers to pay attention to?

Remain Studio, Zayan The Label, Vatanika. There is also Steven Tai, a very interesting Canadian designer residing in London.

How is the buyer’s role changing in the fashion retail market?

The market is certainly changing; some brands sell their collections to end clients directly, while others set up a see-and-buy express ordering system.

The buyer’s role is still key though. Every collection is huge, and it’s the buyer who selects the items for their market, the

BUYER

Do you follow current trends? What will be in fashion this coming autumn?

I think that designers will still be keen on anti-fashion, the 90s style and minimalism. It would be great to see what Raf Simons’ collection for Calvin Klein will look like. As to our own showroom, we do not always watch trends, far from it. Our customers want something unique and rare, so the first thing we look at in a collection is how distinctive it is.

What are your plans for the future?

We mostly work with brands that produce ready-to-wear clothes. We’d like to offer more accessories, like jewellery, bags, and footwear, so we’re looking to expand in that direction.

ones that their customers will appreciate.

The buyer knows their tastes and preferences very well and can, therefore, pick out the most successful models from the variety.

Which markets are the most promising these days?

For us, I would say the Asian markets.

They’re still enjoying the economic boom, and the local customers are more open to new names than, say, European buyers, who are much more cautious when selecting brands.

In which countries are there promising designers to be found today?

In Asia, as well. Particularly in Shanghai and Seoul where the fashion weeks are producing increasing numbers of interesting designers every season. You could also go to Georgia: their brands have quite a distinctive style that is very different from everything else in the market.

Which countries bring you the buyers that you cooperate most with?

Our customers come from everywhere. I couldn’t pick out any single region. Every time we begin working together with a new brand, we think about how well it will sell in all the countries we work with.

THE MARKET IS CERTAINLY CHANGING; SOME BRANDS SELL THEIR COLLECTIONS TO END CLIENTS DIRECTLY, WHILE OTHERS SET UP A SEE-AND-BUY EXPRESS ORDERING SYSTEM. THE BUYER’S ROLE IS STILL KEY THOUGH. EVERY COLLECTION IS HUGE, AND IT’S THE BUYER WHO SELECTS THE ITEMS FOR THEIR MARKET, THE ONES THAT THEIR CUSTOMERS WILL APPRECIATE

113

THE BEST LUXURY STORES AWARDS WOMEN, MEN & KIDS

— ’ R U S S I A’ S TO P 10 0 FA S H I O N B O U T I Q U E S’ B O O K P R E S E N TAT I O N — BUSINESS FORUM FOR BUYERS WITH ACCL AIMED INDUSTRY EXPERTS — CEREMONY AWARDING THE BEST LUXURY STORES — GA L A DINNER W I T H PERFORM A NCES BY FA MOUS SINGERS — FA S H I O N S H O W S F E AT U R I N G R U S S I A N A N D I N T E R N AT I O N A L BRANDS

M O S C O W N O V E M B E R 2 017 INFO@BUYERSUNION.RU M O S C O W, 15 R O C H D E L S K AYA S T R ., B L D. 41 W W W.BU Y ERSUNION.RU

Phot o: c our t es y of Cope nhage n Fas hion We ek pres s of f ic e

EVENTS

'Denmark is positioning itself as a global leader for sustainable development in t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. O v e r t h e p a s t f e w y e a r s , w e ’v e w a n t e d t o l e t f a s h i o n w e e k reflect this focus on sustainabilit y and have highlighted "green" designers such as F o n n e s b e c h , B a r b a r a í G o n g i n i a n d T r i n e L i n d e g a a r d i n o u r r o s t e r.'

C a m i l l a F r a n k , C o p e n h a g e n F a s h i o n We e k

BUYER

GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK WE CAUGHT UP WITH CAMILLA FRANK, WHO WAS JUST APPOINTED AS THE NEW CEO OF COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK, TO CHAT ABOUT THE NEW NORDIC NAMES IN FASHION, ECOLOGICAL DESIGN AND THE FUTURE PLANS OF THE GREENEST FASHION EVENT IN EUROPE

Copenhagen Fashion Week is often seen as a platform for fresh young talent. Who are the emerging Danish and Nordic designers to watch today?

We take great pride in having created a platform that allows young, talented designers to showcase their designs and share their visions alongside more established fashion labels. Some of the most recent design talents who have showcased at Copenhagen Fashion Week include Freya Dalsjø, Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Saks Potts, Asger Juel Larsen, Tonsure, Tatiana Andersen Camre and many more. Make sure to look out for this year’s winner of the DANSK Design Talent award, Cecilie Bahnsen, who will present her collection this upcoming fashion week.

Photo: Elisabeth Eibye

Copenhagen is a pioneer of green fashion, particularly as host to the world’s largest event on sustainability in fashion, the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Copenhagen Fashion Week also boasts an eco-friendly agenda. Tell us more about initiatives such as The Green Walk.

Denmark is positioning itself as a global leader for sustainable development in the fashion industry. Over the past few years, we’ve wanted to let fashion week reflect this focus on sustainability and have highlighted ‘green’ designers such as Fonnesbech, Barbara í Gongini and Trine Lindegaard in our roster, leading the Financial Times to praise Copenhagen Fashion Week as ‘the greenest fashion week around’. Other initiatives include green

GANNI

116

BUYER

fashion exhibitions, showcasing designs made from sustainable materials – e.g. recycled plastic bottles, seaweed, even milk fibres – and The Green Walk, a shopping route through Copenhagen that maps out the shops and boutiques that carry environmentally conscious fashion brands.

To take part in your event, designers must sign the Danish Ethical Fashion Charter, which bans them from using under-16s as models if not accompanied by an adult. What other important issues, in your opinion, should be addressed in order to make the fashion industry more ethical?

It is important for us that the designers of Copenhagen Fashion Week promote a healthy body image, and we created the ethical charter because we want designers to provide the best and healthiest working conditions for the models. This is why we have banned models younger than 15, and require that models younger than 16 are accompanied by an adult. We also require

GANNI

SOME OF THE MOST RECENT DESIGN TALENTS WHO HAVE SHOWCASED AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK INCLUDE FREYA DALSJØ, MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN, SAKS POTTS, ASGER JUEL LARSEN, TONSURE, TATIANA ANDERSEN CAMRE AND MANY MORE

BY MALENE BIRGER

SAKS POTTS

clients to provide healthy and nourishing food backstage. Equally importantly, we believe models should be properly compensated for their work so we don’t allow designers to pay their models in clothes, goody bags, etc.

What are your plans for the future of Copenhagen Fashion Week?

We are currently in the process of mapping out a strategy for the future of Copenhagen Fashion Week. We are of course closely following current developments in the fashion world such as the see-now/buy-now trend, increasing consumer demand for environmentally responsible fashion, and rapid digitalisation.

What is most important for us is that we continue to secure Copenhagen’s position as the leading fashion week in the Nordic region and as one of the biggest fashion destinations in Northern Europe. We believe digital development is vital to our success, so this is one of the aspects we are exploring. We would like to be first-movers in the digital area and combine a digital fashion experience with the physical events and networking in Copenhagen that we still strongly believe in.

117

BUYER

February-July 2017

FASHION WEEKS

DON’T FORGET TO ADD THESE NEW EXCITING DESTINATIONS TO YOUR DIARY. THE FASHION CALENDAR IS MORE INTENSE THAN EVER WITH DESIGNERS’ SHOWS SCHEDULED ALL OVER THE GLOBE

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Copenhagen, Denmark

New York City, USA

31 January - 3 February 2017

9-16 February 2017

copenhagenfashionweek.com

nyfw.com

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION DAYS KIEV Kiev, Ukraine,1-5 February 2017 mbkievfashiondays.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK

MILANO MODA DONNA

London, England

Milan, Italy

17-21 February 2017

22-28 February 2017

londonfashionweek.co.uk

milanomodadonna.it/en

UKRAINIAN FASHION WEEK Kiev, Ukraine

PARIS FASHION WEEK

4-8 February 2017

Paris, France

fashionweek.ua

28 February - 8 March 2017 modeaparis.com/en

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID Madrid, Spain, 16-21 February 2017 ifema.es/mercedesbenzfwm_06 ARAB FASHION WEEK Dubai, UAE 8-13 March 2017 arabfashionweek.org

Elena Reva

Carven

118

BUYER MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA Moscow, Russia 12-16 March 2017 mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru/en

CHINA FASHION WEEK Beijing, China 25-31 March 2017 english.chinafashionweek.org

SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK Shanghai, China 7-13 April 2017 shanghaifashionweek.com AMAZON FASHION WEEK Tokyo, Japan 20-25 March 2017 amazonfashionweektokyo.com/en

M E RC E D E S - B E N Z FA S H I O N W E E K AU S T R A L I A Sydney, Australia 14-19 May 2017 mbfashionweek.com/australia

HERA SEOUL FASHION WEEK

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK MEN’S

MILANO MODA UOMO

Seoul, Korea

London, England

New York, USA

Milan, Italy

27 March - 1 April 2017

9-12 June 2017

10-13 July 2017

17-20 June 2017

seoulfashionweek.org

londonfashionweekmens.com

cfda.com

milanomodauomo.it/en

PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK Paris, France 21-25 June 2017 modeaparis.com/en

Kenzo

119

BUYER

SHOWING OFF THERE’S A NEW GENERATION OF TALENTED DESIGNERS WITH DISTINCTIVE CREATIVE AND COMMERCIAL POTENTIAL, MAKING BOLD ADVANCES INTO FASHION WEEKS ALL OVER THE WORLD. WE'VE SELECTED SOME OF THE MOST PROMISING SHOWS OF THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SEASON THAT YOU WILL NOT WANT TO MISS AILANTO Ailanto is the creative union of twin brothers, Iñaki and Aitor Muñoz. Originally from Bilbao, the pair moved to study Fine Art at the University College Barcelona. The brothers set up their own brand after graduating in 1995 and with an inclination towards geometric shapes, mixing colours and the avantgarde, their pieces quickly became recognisable. 2010 saw the opening of their first monobrand boutique in Barcelona, and in 2012 they threw open the doors of a second Ailanto shop, in Madrid.

'The stress is on the details and finishings. We use fine materials such as linen, silk and wool which bring the softness necessary to counter-balance an industrial rigidity and an asserted ultramodern aestheticism,' say the designers. Other hallmarks of their collection include skilful embroidery, complex texture combinations, and the use of their own prints. Examples of the brand’s work have been exhibited at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

In the coming autumn/winter season, the brand will feature midi dresses, oversized coats, cosy knits and fitted shapes as its key shapes. Above all, this season’s collection from the Muñoz brothers draws inspiration from art and nature using flower patterns on dark background fabrics reminiscent of botanical gardens.

MERCEDES—BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID THE NEW AILANTO COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

BUYER

PARIS FASHION WEEK MASHA MA It didn't take Masha Ma long to get herself known as one of the most promising young Chinese designers. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Ma worked for Alexander McQueen before launching her namesake label in 2011. Today the designer divides her time between her Shanghai studio and her office in Paris where she is regularly shows at the fashion week.

'I have a strong bent for eccentric minimalism, which is becoming part of my brand’s DNA, and I'm also interested in youth subcultures which are a rich source of inspiration for my team and I' says Masha.

The designer describes her target audience as independent and intelligent women with a strong sense of individuality. A Masha Ma woman loves life and has a rebellious streak in her.

Masha's collections are about futuristic prints and focus on materials, but the key element of her designs is the cut. The brand is renowned for its two-piece suits with slim-fit trousers as well as its oversized suits. ' We are going to further explore and experiment on tailoring.

Our collection will feature a sophisticated day-to-night dress and a padded oversized unisex Duffle coat made of washed denim' says Masha. The designer prefers not to reveal the details of her A/W 2017 collection, but promises that there will be experiments in shape and volume and a ‘rebellious’ cut.

THE NEW MASHA MA COLLECTION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BUYERS TO ORDER AT VIADELBUYER.COM

121

BUYER

JUAN HERNANDEZ DAELS Argentina-born designer Juan Hernandez Daels launched his eponymous label in 2009 after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Before making a name for himself in the fashion industry, Daels gained experience at Dries van Noten and Raf Simons. Describing his brand’s aesthetic as a cross between Antwerp-inspired experiments in antifashion and Latino sensuality, Daels’s unique life story is central to the brand. As he says, ‘We focus on tailoring savoir-faire with continuous innovation.

My multicultural background constitutes an enormous source of inspiration, with my clothes combining Flemish heritage with my Argentinean upbringing.’

One signature style from Daels’ collections is oversized suits adorned with giant bows.

His spring-summer 2017 collection saw lightweight fabrics, like organic silk and chiffon, married with industrial materials. This combination of soft and stiff materials gives volume to his garments and helps him to build geometric shapes.

For his autumn-winter 2017 collection Daels plans to reinvent the language of tailoring. As he puts it, ‘The idea of the collection is to rethink the convention of the suit, to rethink the convention of tailoring. What would suits be like on a different planet, with different social conventions or a different force of gravity?’ He will incorporate elements and features of the suit into each item from his upcoming collection.

BUENOS AIRES FASHION WEEK

THE NEW JUAN HERNANDEZ DAELS

122

COLLEC TION IS AVAIL ABLE FOR BU YERS TO O R D E R AT V I A D E L B U Y E R .CO M

BUYER

February-March 2017

EXHIBITION CALENDAR

GET THE MOST OUT OF THE TRADE SHOWS WITH THIS HANDY GUIDE TO FINDING NEW COLLECTIONS OF CLOTHES, FOOTWEAR, AND ACCESSORIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD, ENRICHING YOUR SHOP’S RANGE WITH NEW LABELS, AND PLACING ORDERS FOR NEXT SEASON

1–3 FEBRUARY 2017

10–12 FEBRUARY

11–14 FEBRUARY

12–14 FEBRUARY

COPENHAGEN

MUNICH

MUNICH

LONDON

CIFF

PREMIUM ORDER

SUPREME WOMEN&MEN

SCOOP

The largest and most innovative

Premium Order is Germany’s

Supreme is celebrating its 10th anniversary

Scoop will feature 250 carefully

fashion fair in Northern Europe, CIFF

most important fashion exhibition,

season by expanding both its exhibition

curated collections of premium women’s

was established in 1993 and has

featuring about 600 collections

space and its selection of labels. The

clothes and accessories from young

been growing ever since. It features

of women’s and men’s clothes,

exhibition features 750 collections, including

designers from all over the world. Since

men’s and women’s designers from

footwear and accessories. This is

both women’s and men’s brands of ready-

its inception six years ago the exhibition

a number of countries. If you’re

a great opportunity for those who

to-wear clothes, as well as footwear and

has confidently established itself as a

looking for children’s collections,

missed out on Premium in Berlin to

accessories.

leading show for its sector.

CIFF KIDS is held elsewhere in

discover some attractive brands.

MTC House of Fashion, Ingolstädter

Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York's

Zenith Gelände, Lilienthalallee

Straße/Taunusstraße 45, Munich

HQ, King's Road, London

CIFF & Raven: Centre Boulevard

29, Munich

munichfashioncompany.co

scoop-international.com

5, Copenhagen

premiumexhibitions.com

Copenhagen at the same time.

CIFF Kids: Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Copenhagen ciff.dk

3–5 FEBRUARY

12–14 FEBRUARY

MADRID

LONDON

MOMAD METROPOLIS

PURE LONDON

Momad offers 900 brands of clothes and

Pure, a London exhibition, features

accessories, also featuring fashion shows

over 700 brands of women’s and

and a trade business forum. Besides the

men’s clothes, 60% of which are from

classic sections, there are also separate

overseas. See new collections, place

categories featuring evening wear, eco

orders, and enjoy this opportunity to

fashion and fast fashion, where buyers

visit fashion shows and attend trade

can get a head start and order from the

lectures.

current SS 2017 collection.

Olympia London, Hammersmith Feria de Madrid, Avenida del

Road, Kensington, London

Partenón 5, Madrid

purelondon.com

momad.metropolis.ifema.es

124

BUYER

12–15 FEBRUARY

17–21 FEBRUARY

MILAN

LONDON

THE MICAM

DESIGNER SHOWROOMS

The largest trade show for the footwear

London is the only fashion capital

industry opens its 83rd season this

where you can attend a fashion

year. Featuring a broad panorama of

show for an established brand and

Italian producers, from major brands

also sneak a peek at new collections

to small family factories, it also offers

from 150 young and promising

brands from other countries. Don’t miss

designers, from the UK and from

the fashion shows and workshops,

global destination as diverse as

where you can learn about the

Taiwan and Egypt. This fashion

industry’s latest trends and innovations.

venue, just like London Fashion

16–18 FEBRUARY

Week itself, is directly organised

NEW YORK

Rho Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del

by the British Fashion Council and

Sempione 28, Milan

comprises collections of women’s

TRANOÏ WOMEN'S & PARFUMS

themicam.com

clothes, footwear, bags and

Tranoï is the most prestigious European fashion venue, featuring collections from premium

accessories.

class brands. If you are not attending the show in Paris, be sure to catch it in New York. The exhibition also offers a selection of perfumes, which will be of special interest to concept

The Store Studios, 180 The Strand,

stores.

London londonfashionweek.co.uk/designer-

The Tunnel, Chelsea, 269 11th Avenue, New York

showrooms

tranoi.com

12–15 FEBRUARY MILAN MIPEL MICAM’s exhibition space is shared by MIPEL, an exhibition of bags and accessories focusing on Italian brands. Don’t miss the section dedicated to young designers, located in the centre of the fair.

Rho Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione 28, Milan mipel.com 20–23 FEBRUARY MOSCOW COLLECTION PREMIÈRE MOSCOW (CPM) Eastern Europe and Russia’s leading fashion exhibition features international brands of men’s and women’s clothes, accessories, underwear and swimsuits, all targeted at the Russian market. There is a separate section dedicated to children’s fashion. This season, CPM will feature almost 1000 collections from 30 countries, including exciting offerings from newcomers like Indonesia, India, Colombia and Romania.

Expocentre Central Exhibition Complex: 14, Krasnopresnenskaya nab., Moscow cpm-moscow.ru

125

BUYER

20–22 FEBRUARY

23-25 FEBRUARY

LAS VEGAS

NEW YORK

AGENDA, CAPSULE AND LIBERTY

WOMAN

The Venetian’s exposition space Sands

This emerging exhibition was first

will host three fashion exhibitions at once,

held in 2012 and is marked by a

offering buyers and boutique owners a

unique selection of stylish modern

wide choice of items. Featuring carefully

clothing and accessories brands.

selected talented young designers from

About 100 designers from various

the USA and other countries, it focuses on

countries around the world will

stylish and high-quality youth brands.

present their collections this season.

Sands Expo, The Venetian, 201

Spring Studios, 50 Varick St,

Sands Avenue, Las Vegas

New York

agendacapsulelibertyreg.com

man-woman.co

21–23 FEBRUARY

24–27 FEBRUARY

24–26 FEBRUARY

LAS VEGAS

MILAN

NEW YORK

MAGIC

THE ONE MILANO

CAPSULE WOMEN’S AND CAPSULE ACCESSORIES

This exhibition, one of the largest

The One will be held for the first

This exhibition will be of particular interest to the owners of upmarket youth

in the USA, is held biannually in

time this year, combining two

boutiques, as it focuses on emerging brands from talented designers. New

February and August. It features a

of Milan’s exhibitions: MIPAP,

sections will welcome buyers this February: Axis, focused on active lifestyle

wide choice of brands from the mid-

featuring women’s clothes and

brands, and Beauty Lab, featuring independent makeup producers.

range to luxury segments in a number

accessories, and MIFUR, offering

of categories: men’s, women’s

fur and leather items. The One

Skylight Clarkson Sq, 550 Washington Street, New York

and children’s clothes, footwear,

features about 300 brands and

capsuleshow.com

accessories and underwear. Magic

offers a particularly wide selection

takes place in two exhibition

of outerwear.

centres concurrently: Las Vegas and Mandalay Bay.

Fiera Milano City, Viale Scarampo, Milan

Las Vegas Convention Centre,

theonemilano.com

3150 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas Mandalay Bay Convention Centre, 3950 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas ubmfashion.com

126

BUYER

25–27 FEBRUARY

27 FEBRUARY–1 MARCH

13–14 MARCH

MILAN

NEW YORK

LOS ANGELES

THE WHITE SHOW

COTERIE, EDIT AND

CAPSULE

Milan’s largest fashion trade show

ACCESSORIESTHESHOW

This renowned trade exhibition,

enjoys greater success every season.

The Javits Centre holds several

focusing on talented designers from

It features numerous brands of

exhibitions at the same time,

the youth sector, will be held in Los

women’s clothes and accessories

arranged by the organisers of

Angeles for the second time this year.

from both Italy and abroad.

Magic in Las Vegas. Coterie

It will feature new collections from

features a wide choice of women’s

California brands.

Via Tortona 27 – 35 – 54, Milan

clothes and accessories, Edit shows

whiteshow.it

carefully selected collections

Penthouse 13C, California Market

of ready-to-wear clothes, while

Centre, 110 East 9th Street, Downtown LA

AccessoriesTheShow focuses on accessories, from fashionable bags

3–5 MARCH

to quality costume jewellery.

PARIS

The Javits Centre, 11th Ave at 37th

WOMAN

St, Las Vegas

Woman Paris focuses on independent

ubmfashion.com

designers and emerging brands from

capsuleshow.com

a number of countries. You will find carefully selected youth collections from international designers here, all of high quality and stylish design.

25 rue Yves Toudic, Paris man-woman.co con il patrocinio di

FOLLOW US WWW.WHITESHOW.IT

WHITESHOW

WHITESHOWOFFICIAL

WHITESHOW

2–5 MARCH

3-6 MARCH

21–24 MARCH

PARIS

PARIS

MOSCOW

PREMIÈRE CLASSE, PARIS SUR

TRANOÏ

OBUV. MIR KOZHI (SHOES AND

MODE TUILERIES AND CAPSULE

Europe’s largest and best attended

LEATHER PRODUCTS)

All held in the Tuileries Garden during

fashion exhibition: Tranoï’s quality

This exhibition of footwear and

women’s fashion week, these three

brand selection has earned it

accessories is the leader in Russia

exhibitions will delight buyers with a wide

worldwide success. The exhibition

and the CIS. Each year, it features

25–27 FEBRUARY

choice of brands. Traditionally, Première

takes place in two major venues

about 200 producers from a number

MILAN

Classe focuses on accessories, while

and features new collections of

of countries. It offers collections

Paris sur Mode Tuileries and Capsule

women's clothes, accessories and

of women’s, men’s and children’s

SUPER

feature clothes collections, including

costume jewellery.

footwear, bags, gloves and other

The Pitti Immagine project, an

those from young designers.

leather items. There is a particularly

exhibition of women’s clothes and

Palais de la Bourse, Paris

wide range of Italian middle and upper level brands.

accessories, is held in The Mall

Jardin des Tuileries, Entrée Place

Carrousel du Louvre, Paris

exhibition centre. It features fashion

de la Concorde, Paris

tranoi.com

brands from around the world,

premiere-classe.com

Expocentre Central Exhibition

shining a spotlight on promising

Complex: 14, Krasnopresnenskaya

young designers.

nab., Moscow obuv-expo.ru

The Mall, Porta Nuova Varesine, Piazza Lina Bo Bardi, Milan pittimmagine.com

127

BUYER

PREVIEWS AND TRENDS BRIGHTENING UP THE FIERA MILANO RHO TRADE FAIR CENTRE FROM 12-15 FEBRUARY 2017, THE MICAM OFFERS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO STAY ONE STEP AHEAD OF THE PACK AND LEARN ABOUT THE MATERIALS AND INSPIRATIONS THAT WILL DISTINGUISH NEXT AUTUMN/WINTER SHOES COLLECTIONS. FOUR TRENDS REIGN SUPREME, OFFERING BOLD FASHION VISIONS AND INSIGHTS INTO THE MOODS AND COLOURS THAT WILL RULE COME AUTUMN

DESIGN MATTERS – SUSTAINABLE DESIGN WITH BALANCED HUES WOMEN This trend focuses on the impact of sustainable practices on design: sophisticated sustainability, choice of materials, minimalist items, couture and comfort. The colour palette is versatile, with soft hues coupled with greys for a modern look.

EARTHED – THE VIGOUR OF LAND AND NATURE

MEN There are two watchwords here: craftsmanship and quality. The colour palette is balanced with grey and plum hues offset by warmer tones.

WOMEN Earthed explores our increasingly visceral need for contact with nature.

Fabrics are soft, colours deep. The fabrics are inspired by natural elements, such as geological formations or wood grains.

MEN For men, outdoor wear fuses with urban streetwear and couture, creating a versatile look for the modern man about town. The palette evokes early autumn colours, when the leaves begin to turn, but these shades are more vibrant, with a texture you can almost feel.

128

BUYER

NOCTURNE - THE DARKEST ATMOSPHERES WOMEN Explore the wonders of the dark. The night comes to life thanks to this trend, focusing on dream states and mysticism.

The palette draws inspiration from the evening, with dark shades like midnight blue, forest green and viridian.

MEN Urban themes permeate men’s footwear, bringing street style to the younger market sector, while sophisticated textures create items for upmarket consumers. Colours range between bright accents and darker hues.

INFUSION – OPPOSITES ATTRACT WOMEN This trend explores the growing interdependence between man and technology and the resulting convergence of reality and the virtual world, the tangible and the technological, the past and the present. With vibrant pops of colour and soft pastel hues, the palette for Infusion has an air of luxury.

MEN In men’s footwear, minimalist and maximalist styles collide, resulting in models with simple shapes but in classic men’s style. The colour palette offers a new balance, with unconventional retro colour combinations.

129

BUYER

BETWEEN YOU, ME, AND TRANOÏ TRANOÏ REPRESENTS A RENDEZVOUS OF DESIGNERS AND BUYERS, AND AS THE NAME SUGGESTS – TRANOÏ MEANS ‘BETWEEN US’ IN ITALIAN – IT’S A CHANCE TO GET THE INSIDE WORD ON THE LATEST TRENDS. ONE OF THE LARGEST FASHION EXHIBITIONS OF THE SEASON, TRANOÏ WILL ONCE AGAIN GATHER THE LEADING PLAYERS OF THE INDUSTRY IN PARIS THIS MARCH TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

TRANOÏ throws open its doors to buyers and fashion market specialists six times a year. It showcases collections from both world famous brands and new designers competing to get into that fashion elite.

Whether long-established or young and hungry, all the labels featured present their best items, which is what has TRANOÏ’s reputation as a home for creativity and high quality products, and this year will be no different.

When TRANOÏ was first founded it was only held in

Paris, where it formed part of the fashion week roster.

However, as its range of participating brands grew to international levels it became so successful with buyers that it crossed the ocean and launched in New York in 2015.

While 2016 saw the launch of TRANOÏ Paris: Parfums, presenting the best perfume innovations. Women’s precollections are also shown in Paris.

This March’s programme includes holding a flagship exhibition, TRANOÏ Paris:

Women’s, deservedly considered to be one of the key exhibitions of the season. It will be held in two major venues in central Paris: Palais de la Bourse (Palace of the Stock Exchange) in the Presqu'île area, and Carrousel du Louvre, a major shopping centre. Carrousel du Louvre will host winter collections, including both fashionable clothes and fur items, outerwear, knitwear, and household things. There will be a special zone in the lobby featuring accessories brands with dedicated sections for footwear and jewellery producers.

130

This season, the organisers are focusing on new brands set to showcase their collections at the exhibition for the first time, such as ALBA KNITWEAR, BESFXXK, DON’T CRY, EVOLG GLOVES, GIA COUTURE, LA REVEUSE, LAURENCE BRAS, SYLVIA CORRETTE, THAIS BERNARDES MILANO and THE GIGI. But the muchloved TRANOÏ Paris regulars are also all back for another season, including AS65, BELTZ, BJØRG, BLANCHA, BMUET(TE), FURLAND & ANGELSSHARE, GIANCARLO PETRIGLIA, HARRIS WHARF LONDON, PB0110, PEECH and SOFIE D’HOORE.

BUYER

The Paris exhibition traditionally attracts over 650 participants from across the world. This season’s show will particularly highlight the work of local participants, whose clothes and accessories proudly bear labels saying ‘Made in Paris.’ It is notable that special attention will be paid to brands presenting ‘evergreens’: classic form-fitting silhouettes showcasing the art of Italian tailoring.

THE PARIS EXHIBITION TRADITIONALLY ATTRACTS OVER 650 PARTICIPANTS FROM ACROSS THE WORLD. THIS SEASON’S SHOW WILL PARTICULARLY HIGHLIGHT THE WORK OF LOCAL PARTICIPANTS, WHOSE CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES PROUDLY BEAR LABELS SAYING ‘MADE IN PARIS’

Otherwise, the programme of TRANOÏ Paris in March will be, as always, packed with shows, trade meetings and concluded deals, as well as art exhibitions, parties and fashion shows. Add to this the Paris Fashion Week buzz – the event takes place during the same period – and you should book your flight to Paris right now.

131

BUYER

THE HIGHLIGHTS OF PITTI UOMO 91 IN JANUARY BUYERS AND JOURNALISTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD GATHERED IN FLORENCE FOR THE 91ST EDITION OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY FASHION EVENT TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices Each January the streets of Florence are transformed into catwalks featuring the hottest trends in men’s street fashion, as journalists, buyers, stylists and models flood the city. This edition of Pitti Uomo saw over 36,000 visitors, the majority of whom were buyers – some 24,300 of them to be precise, hailing from more than 100 countries. In their honour the 60,000 m2 historic site of Fortezza da Basso was

turned into a fashion venue, featuring 16 pavilions. Each was divided into sections hosting various trends and styles in men's fashion: Pitti Uomo, Make, Pop Up Stores, Eye Pop, Fashion At Work, Futuro Maschile, Touch!, l’Altro Uomo, Born in the USA, Unconventional, Open, The Latest Fashion Buzz, I Play, Urban Panorama, and My Factory. This year also saw the addition of a brand new 132

section: HI Beauty, dedicated to fragrances, cosmetics and body care products.

Pitti Uomo has established a unique position for itself as a cross between a fashion week and a traditional trade fair, with star-studded runway shows and the biggest fashion names presenting their collections in the pavilions.

As special guest of the 91st edition, British style icon Sir

Paul Smith brought the latest collection of contemporary and technical pieces from his ‘PS by Paul Smith’ line.

Alessandro Sartori, the new artistic director at internationally acclaimed Italian brand Z Zegna, showcased his debut collection for the renowned label, and Belgian-born Tim Coppens showed his AW 2017 collection. These designers were joined by Tommy Hilfiger, featured at

BUYER

ART EXHIBITIONS, INSTALLATIONS, SHOWS AND COCKTAIL PARTIES WERE ONLY A FRACTION OF THE EVENTS ENJOYED BY ATTENDEES. THE SHEER SCALE OF THE EVENT WAS SO IMPRESSIVE THAT PITTI UOMO 92 IS ALREADY BEING SLATED AS THE MOST HOTLY ANTICIPATED FASHION EVENT OF THE SUMMER

abroad. Along with buyers from Germany, Japan, Spain, Great Britain, Turkey, China, Switzerland, the USA, Belgium and South Korea, whose attendance figures were traditionally high, Russian and Ukrainian buyers re-established their presence after the last year's drop in numbers.

Art exhibitions, installations, shows and cocktail parties were only a fraction of the events enjoyed by attendees.

The sheer scale of the event was so impressive that Pitti Uomo 92 is already being slated as the most hotly anticipated fashion event of the summer.

Pitti Uomo for the first time.

He presented his newest autumn 2017 collection, with a dazzling installation inspired by innovation and digital technology. Golden Goose Deluxe, which launched its iconic sneakers model ten years ago, also brought an exciting new project to Pitti.

Carlo Volpi, Lucio Vanotti and Sansovino 6 unveiled their collections as part of Pitti Italics, a programme started

by Pitti Immagine to promote

and support young talent, and special events were also held by Japanese and South Korean designers. Fausto Puglisi showcased his men's footwear line, and Wrangler, the legendary denim brand that celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, brought an exclusive collection made in collaboration with contemporary artists and designers.

Of more than 1,220 brands exhibited at this edition of Pitti Uomo, 540 were from 133

BUYER

THE FUTURE ENCAPSULATED CAPSULE, ONE OF THE MOST PROGRESSIVE FASHION TRADE SHOWS IN THE WORLD, IS GETTING READY FOR AW 17. THIS MEANS THAT EVERY FASHION PROFESSIONAL ON BOTH SIDES OF THE ATLANTIC MUST ATTEND AT LEAST ONE OF THE SIX CAPSULE EEVENTS, TAKING PLACE FROM LATE JANUARY TO MID MARCH TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

Each of the Capsule trade shows is an opportunity for buyers to get up close with new collections from around the world. Starting off with a menswear show in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week, Capsule then heads over the pond: first to New York and then to Las Vegas. The gambling capital hosts both men’s and women’s shows and from then on the women’s shows take over, lighting up New York (again during Fashion Week), Paris and Los Angeles. LA is the most recent addition to the show’s calendar, and, as Capsule co-founder Deirdre Maloney says, it was an exceptionally

coveted slot, since the city already boasts a cornucopia of boutiques. ‘Demand for our niche of progressive and advanced contemporary labels is growing right now, especially on the West Coast, and we're launching there in order to meet that demand,’ she says. ‘Downtown LA is a great, revitalised destination for shopping and culture right now; we're excited to be adding presence there to our calendar, in addition to our shows in New York, Paris and Las Vegas.’

its first concept store in LA, called Capsule Concept. It’s a rotating-concept shop where month-long themes shape the offer. The store lives up to the original event’s principles, displaying of-the-moment independent brands in

Capsule followed up its 2016 West Coast debut by opening 134

menswear and womenswear, along with accessories and beauty and lifestyle products.

So, what makes a Capsule show an unmissable event?

Unlike many fashion trade shows, Capsule was conceived

BUYER

with quality, not quantity, in mind. Its creators have been building an intimate community of brands and participants from the very first New York edition of Capsule in 2007. That first show selected and showcased just 50 menswear brands, chosen by the curators to represent everything that was fashionable and up to date. The principle of handpicking brands has remained unchanged ever since. The shows have incorporated new participants, covered new cities and expanded to include womenswear, but the advisory board holds the bar high as ever, checking whether each new brand meets Capsule’s exacting standards. Buyers from the world’s biggest shops and boutiques as well as industry leaders make up Capsule’s target audience.

This choice of building business relations rather than presenting collections to public at large has helped cement Capsule’s reputation as the epitome of fashionforwardness and quality.

What will this edition of Capsule bring to buyers?

First, Capsule launches new platforms in New York and teams up with Highsnobiety

BUYERS FROM THE WORLD’S BIGGEST SHOPS AND BOUTIQUES AS WELL AS INDUSTRY LEADERS MAKE UP CAPSULE’S TARGET AUDIENCE. THIS CHOICE OF BUILDING BUSINESS RELATIONS RATHER THAN PRESENTING COLLECTIONS TO PUBLIC AT LARGE HAS HELPED CEMENT CAPSULE’S REPUTATION AS THE EPITOME OF FASHIONFORWARDNESS AND QUALITY

for a range of men’s shows.

The influential online publication will recognise the best brands during their Highsnobiety Crown Awards Ceremony. Next, a special ‘Poli-Sci by Capsule’ collection inspired by the recent US election will be shown to attendees in NY and Las Vegas.

Capsule New York women’s shows will see a recordbreaking number of brands, 135

with about 750 labels covering apparel, accessories and beauty on the agenda. The Paris edition of Capsule will take place during Women's Fashion Week as part of the major European exhibitions Paris Sur Mode and Premiere Classe. Whichever Capsule you attend you’ll discover some of the world’s freshest brands and most influential new directions in fashion today.

BUYER

RECOGNIZING THE VERY BEST ON NOVEMBER 15, 2016, THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION PRESENTED THE RUSSIA'S TOP 100 FASHION BOUTIQUES BOOK TO EACH OF THE RETAILERS IT HONOURED. THE EVENT TOOK PLACE IN THE LOTTE HOTEL MOSCOW AND WAS FOLLOWED BY A FORUM ON THE LATEST IN RETAIL, AND THE BEST LUXURY STORES AWARD CEREMONY. IT WAS HERE THAT SOME OF THE OWNERS AND BUYERS OF RUSSIA’S TOP MULTIBRAND STORES WERE RECOGNISED FOR THEIR WORK TEXT: FashionUnited

'We wanted to offer something that would benefit both buyers and boutique owners. Russia is so big and diverse that it naturally has a variety of remarkable stores. They can be very different, and yet they all bring fashion and style to customers and help to cultivate good taste'says Elena Bugranova, President of the Union. 'I’ve been to many countries and what always puzzles me is that people abroad only know about the boutiques of Moscow and St Petersburg.

There are many wonderful stores in other cities and regions, and I've long wanted to bring them into the spotlight.

So, we started this project and published the Russia's Top 100 Fashion Boutiques book, presenting stores in 47 cities.'

Among the experts sharing their experience with the participants, were

Jonathan Brenton (Minister Counsellor at the British Embassy in Moscow), Frances Lindesay (fashion print and textile designer who has worked for Céline, Preen and Diane Von Furstenberg), Andrea Salvadori (TRANOI), Kasper Scott (Kopenhagen Fur), Natalia Chinenova (Fashion Consulting Group), Matteo Scarparo (Assocalzaturifici) and Lior Susana (viadelbuyer.com).

As Jonathan Brenton noted, 'In the UK, £50 billion worth of luxury goods are sold annually. This is a huge sector of the industry which employs 160,000 people. What's more, this market brings us together. While current relations between our countries may be somewhat strained, we still have a lot in common in terms of tastes and preferences. Russians love British

fashion, just as the British are developing an interest in Russian brands such as Olga Vilshenko, Ulyana Sergeenko and Vika Gazinskaya' Natalia Chinenova, Chief Business Development Consultant at the Fashion Consulting Group, spoke on efficient purchase and sale, and on the new forms of consumption. She identified three main trends that have emerged in the Russian market over recent years: people are switching to less expensive brands, shopping more during sales campaigns, and are making fewer impulse purchases and buying less for the future.

136

BUYER

Following the forum, the attendees were invited to the invitation-only The Best Luxury Stores Award Ceremony.

The Moscow Central Department Store (TSUM) won two trophies. The first went to Fashion Director and Vice President of Mercury Russia, Alla Verber, for her creative approach to selecting luxury brands, and Daniil Berg, Creative Director of TSUM, collected the second for the best shop windows. The Podium Market company (Moscow) and its Creative Director, Polina Kitsenko, won prizes for promoting fashion, bringing affordable luxury to young people and supporting Russian designers

137

BUYER

and emerging talents. Constantine Andrikopulos, Director for Development at Bosco Di Ciliegi, picked up the award for the best family shopping experience, on behalf of the Moscow-based Vesna shopping centre. The list of awardees also included Aizel boutique and online shop Aizel.ru (Moscow), Babochka (St Petersburg), Boutique No. 7 (Moscow), VIP GROUP (Kazan), Volna and ART boutiques (both in Samara), Sobranie prĂŞt-a-porter (Krasnoyarsk), and many others.

Between announcements, the attendees enjoyed seeing collections by the Italian brand Via Delle Perle and rising Russian label Seamore, with the latter showcasing double-sided outfits and garments with detachable parts. Kopenhagen Fur, the world’s largest fur auction house and main sponsor of the ceremony, treated the guests to a fur fashion show featuring items by Avanti, Bourtsos, Manakas, PKZ and Manzari.

The extraordinary event ended sweetly as a celebration cake, made in the shape of Russia's Top 100 Fashion Boutiques book, was shared amongst all the attendees and winners.

The official partners to the ceremony were Porsche Centre Taganka, SDG, Revlon Professional Brands, New Light Technology and Gala Khachaturova.

138

BUYER

"RUSSIA IS SO BIG AND DIVERSE THAT IT NATURALLY HAS A VARIETY OF REMARKABLE STORES. THEY CAN BE VERY DIFFERENT, AND YET THEY ALL BRING FASHION AND STYLE TO CUSTOMERS AND HELP TO CULTIVATE GOOD TASTE.” ELENA BUGRANOVA

139

BUYER

THE WIND OF CHANGE PUBLISHED AT THE END OF 2016, THE BEST LUXURY STORES BOOK FEATURES RUSSIA'S MOST PROMINENT RETAIL PLAYERS, FROM MOSCOW TO VLADIVOSTOK. WE ASKED FASHION EXPERTS FROM ITALY AND FRANCE INCLUDED IN THE PANEL OF JUDGES HOW THE RUSSIAN FASHION BUSINESS HAS CHANGED OVER RECENT YEARS AND WHAT MAKES A SUCCESSFUL MULTIBRAND STORE

INNA ALDUSHENKOVA EVEREST ATTITUDE, FRANCE

What are your criteria for assessing the quality of a boutique?

Well, it is extremely important to select brands correctly. A shop has to decide what it wants its customers to see and who makes up its target audience, be it young people, connoisseurs of classic style, or fans of the latest trends. Taken as a whole, the range of brands should satisfy the needs of the boutique’s clients as much as possible. The presentation of the goods and How is the Russian fashion market merchandising is just as imporchanging today? tant, since so much depends on For the better! At some point, how much insight the buyer can every client will move from wantgain into the collection and how ing to buy every luxury item on well they can convey the designoffer to a more scrupulous, picky er’s idea without altering it. form of consumption. They become wiser, and I am very happy Tell us about the importance that the Russian fashion market is of range for a multibrand ready for the more sophisticated boutique. requirements of an educated The range must be consistent clientele. Many say that people within a certain style. But it’s a are now buying less, but I respond balance: the items can’t be mothat they are buying better. To notonous. You need a selection me, quality is always preferable to of pieces that complement one quantity. another.

140

How is the Russian fashion market changing today?

The real experts of the industry have led boutique clients to abandon the idea that everything is much better and cheaper in the West. Expanding boutique concepts and the unique tastes of Russian buyers now mean that offers to the consumer are actually more interesting and profitable in Russia.

However, today's customers are already so knowledgeable in the matters of fashion that shops are forced to constantly seek new ways of attracting clients. It’s no longer enough simply to launch a nice boutique in the centre of a city; you have to keep surprising your clients and finding new and special ways to communicate with them. This is why we’re seeing a rise in fashion parties and events, collaborations with young designers, and shop-inshops launches. Russian fashion labels are also flourishing.

Names like Terekhov, A la Russe and Chapurin have shot to success overseas and have quickly become prominent brands in Europe.

What are your criteria for assessing the quality of a boutique?

For me, the most important thing about a boutique is its owners.

Their attitude and their passion for the fashion industry not only determines the store’s atmosphere, but also its buying power.

Fashion purchases mean more to clients than merely acquiring a useful object. Fashion is a symbolic language that speaks of belonging to a style or trend; it is a dream that we create for ourselves. This is why it is crucial that everything clients encounter in their search for that dream should only strengthen their desire to pursue it. So a modern-day boutique should not be overburdened with colour or detail. The focus should be on

NATACHA GANIVET SOCIÉTÉ D'ORA, FRANCE

the products, and everything else should frame and enhance them with crystalline clarity. It is also paramount to correctly distribute the labels around the shop. First, boutiques must choose the socalled leading brands that will set the tone and determine the target audience, and then decide on the accompanying brands that will complement the range on offer.

Tell us about the importance of range for a multibrand boutique.

It all depends on what goals its owners have and what target audience they rely on. In case of a multibrand shop featuring top brands, the range should be made up of nothing but worldclass names: Saint Laurent, Céline, Chloé, Givenchy, Valentino, etc.

High status always means high costs, so when some boutiques partition their space into zones, some with prominent brands and others with less influential or second-line ones, this often creates internal competition and confusion.

Therefore, we do not recommend featuring brands from different categories in the same space on the same floor. Now, if we’re talking about a shop with second-line luxury or designer brands, about 50% of the space should be dedicated to basic clothing items that bring in the income. The other 50% should be occupied by the so-called ‘shop window’– display items that attract attention– as well as supporting products like accessories and footwear.

BUYER

they come to the showroom, every buyer sort of becomes a co-participant in the creative process.

They receive a collection from the designer’s hands and then create a certain mosaic. Aside from this, skilful merchandising, the design of the interior, lighting and the sales equipment used in the shop all matter quite a bit.

MARINA PLISOVA AND VITALY PLISOV CREATIVEST, FRANCE

How is the Russian fashion market changing today?

The market is indeed changing, driven by both the economic situation and the influence of new phenomena in fashion. People are travelling and visiting other shops more often these days. But online boutiques are really at the heart of the new way of shopping, offering clients a chance to compare things, which then allows offline shops to feature more advanced selections as a result of learning about customer choices.

People’s motivation for buying is also changing. While the goal for end customers used to be that

they followed seasonal fashion developments in order to show others that they were on trend, there are now certain timeless values replacing that. People no longer want something shortlived, flashing across the catwalk like a comet, worn once or twice for a social media selfie and then handed over to a second-hand store. Customers want to build up their wardrobe, so as to have items that will be fashionable during any season. This does not mean that their overall buying power has reduced. But this does mean that there are some dramatic changes taking place in

their system of values. People’s attitude towards shopping is more responsible now.

What are your criteria for assessing the quality of a boutique?

Just as the theatre, as they say, begins with the cloakroom, so a fashion boutique experience begins with the shop window. It’s effectively the hallmark of the boutique, conveying what the shop is all about. For me, the main sign of success is in having a single pivot, a single idea that brings together both the selection of brands and the skill of its buyers in selecting and presenting collections. When 141

Tell us about the importance of range for a multibrand boutique.

On the one hand, the wider the better, but on the other, quality is more important than quantity.

The selection must match the original concept of the shop, its location, and its target audience perfectly. Do not limit yourself to offering just basic, safe, profitable items. Try to introduce your client to more sophisticated things, to help them develop their image. In this respect, it becomes especially important to work with your clients closely. Then, of course, it’s also a good idea to let your audience create a complete look using items from the same designer, which means the collection should feature not only clothes but also footwear and accessories from each brand on offer.

BUYER

RECENTLY, RUSSIAN FASHION HAS REACHED A WHOLE NEW LEVEL, AND ‘MADE IN RUSSIA’ NOW BRINGS UP NOTIONS OF QUALITY CONTROL, CREATIVE WORK AND A DISTINCT PHILOSOPHY

ROBERTO CHINELLO SOCIETÀ ITALIA, ITALY

of choice. But customers should not feel as if they are in some kind of luxury bazaar, and so presenting collections deserves painstaking attention.

When working out an effective merchandising concept, the shops should aim at linking the elusive, inspired beauty of the fashion world with an analytical, logical approach How is the Russian fashion based on customer behaviour market changing today? when they choose items The first thing that springs to for their wardrobe. It is my mind is that there have been opinion that many multibrand really major changes in how shops attempt to emulate Russian brands work. Recently, monobrand ones, and that Russian fashion has reached a is a big mistake. Multibrand whole new level, and ‘made in boutiques are capable of Russia’ now brings up notions of giving the client a totally quality control, creative work and different shopping experience a distinct philosophy. Personally, by taking them on a ‘fashion I really love many of the Russian journey’ through collections brands as well as the style of from a number of brands, their collections. and thus show them a more complete panorama of the What are your criteria for fashion world. assessing the quality of a boutique?

Tell us about the importance Multibrand boutiques should of range for a multibrand provide a wide range of goods boutique. that are in line with current It has to be wide and diverse, trends and consumer tastes. logical and attractive, and it Likewise, visual merchandising must also match the tastes of should also reflect this diversity the target audience.

142

IRINA GUDKOVA IFD, ITALY

How is the Russian fashion market changing today?

The consumption behaviour of end clients and the distribution policies of brands of all categories, from the pinnacle of luxury to more affordable labels, have been strongly affected by the economic crisis, sanctions and the depreciation of the rouble. So today’s situation for the fashion industry in the former USSR countries has followed the recent global downturn.

What are your criteria for assessing the quality of a boutique?

Multibrand boutiques have a unique opportunity to satisfy the needs of several consumer groups at once, by offering a wide range of brands united by a single concept. A profitable multibrand shop attracts its clients with its special

atmosphere and its wide choice. The selection of the brands, of course, has to conform to the expectations of various target groups. Every client should feel special and welcomed here. Another important aspect is that boutiques offer a chance to create new images every day, using the collections on display and individual items to help supplement the image.

Tell us about the importance of range for a multibrand boutique.

These boutiques have to offer several similar items from competing designers, who are in a constant struggle to win clients in their monobrand shops. This strategy gives multibrand boutiques a chance to satisfy a greater number of customers and to offer a choice to those who are willing to experiment with a number of brands.

Via Giandomenico Romagnosi 4, Milano T. (+39) 02 36517680 E. info@derosmilano.com www.derosmilano.com

BUYER

E XCEEDING E X P E C TAT I O N S THE SE T TING FOR T WO FASHION WEEKS (MERCEDES - BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA AND MOSCOW FASHION WEEK) AND THE BASE FOR SHOWROOMS OF MA JOR RUSSIAN AND FOREIGN BR ANDS, MOSCOW HAS SECURED ITS STATUS AS A PERMANENT DESTINATION FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY. BUYER ADVISES ON WHERE TO STAY ON YOUR BUSINESS TRIP

The Lotte Hotel Moscow offers six conference halls for your business events, while the modern and wellequipped fitness centre and the world-famous Mandara Spa with its luxurious Balinese spa rituals cater to the leisure needs of the hotel's guests.

The five-star Lotte Hotel Moscow opened in 2010. It was the first hotel that the luxurious South Korean Lotte Hotels and Resorts hotel group opened in Russia, adding it to their list of 20 hotels in South Korea, Vietnam, Uzbekistan and the USA. The company now has plans to open its branches in St. Petersburg and Yangon (Myanmar).

Located on Novinsky Boulevard in the city centre, just a few minutes' walk from New Arbat Avenue, the Lotte Hotel Moscow offers 300 spacious rooms and suites, including Russia’s largest Royal Suite (490m2) boasting a spacious bedroom, bathroom with a jacuzzi, private sauna, sitting room with piano and bar, conference hall seating 14, study, kitchen and guest room. Among those who’ve stayed in this gorgeous suite are heads of state, politicians, members of diplomatic missions and celebrities.

Even if you don’t plan to stay in Moscow overnight, consider visiting the Lotte Hotel Moscow to sample Carlo Cracco contemporary Italian cuisine in OVO, the famous chef's first restaurant outside Italy which boasts two Michelin stars. Carlo also balances this with running his own Milan-based Ristorante Cracco with hosting Hell’s Kitchen Italia and being a Master Chef judge.

OVO’s executive chef and Carlo’s right hand is Emanuele Pollini. The restaurant's name means ‘egg’ in Italian, and as you might expect eggs are a signature ingredient of Cracco. In OVO’s kitchen Italian and Russian products are masterfully combined, with Pollini arriving in Moscow a few months before the restaurant opened to find the best suppliers. Among the dishes OVO offers are crunchy cannelloni salad with Kamchatka crab and puttanesca sauce, spaghetti with sea urchin and coffee, and Jerusalem artichoke soup with parsley and smoked sour curd.

144

BUYER

A special menu for weddings and other events and celebrations from the OVO team is available on request, as part of the services of the Lotte Wedding and Event Bureau. This service organises weddings and other events in collaboration with the best Moscow-based professionals, including interior decorators, wedding ateliers, make-up artists and photographers. Six versatile halls and the large lobby are used for celebrations. The service’s professionals can also develop the concept and script for your event, organise an entertainment programme and take on logistics tasks.

All this makes the Lotte Hotel Moscow more than a deluxe hotel – it’s your dependable partner in arranging your most important events.

2 Bld., 8 Novinskiy Blvd. +7 495 745 1000 www.lottehotel.ru 145

BUYER

BEING A BUYER Gianni Peroni

GIANNI PERONI IS THE FOUNDER OF G&B, A FASHION GROUP COMPRISING OF UPSCALE MULTIBRAND AND MONOBRAND BOUTIQUES IN THE NORTH OF ITALY. THE GROUP INCLUDES BOUTIQUES IN BRESCIA, COURMAYEUR, TURIN, AOSTA, PONTE DI LEGNO AND FLERO

TEXT: Michela Zio

1 2

As with any expert, a good buyer must be determined, and prepared to learn and work relentlessly, to achieve their goals.

The work of buyers won’t change considerably in the future. At most, their functions will expand, meaning that they’ll have to work more closely with the staff of the stores they’re buying for.

ITALIAN STYLE IS UNIQUE BECAUSE OF ITS REGARD FOR THE MOST MINUTE DETAILS. WE’RE VERY METICULOUS, CREATIVE, AND INNOVATIVE, AND WE VALUE OUR HISTORY

146

3 4 5 6

7

Online stores will never replace offline shopping completely. The essence of offline boutiques may change, as they will be able to offer exclusive items.

What makes a boutique unique is having the right approach to the customers and offering them the service of their own personal-shopping venue.

What inspires me most about my job is people: the way they behave and the way they spend money.

Sport connects my work and personal life.

Italian style is unique because of its regard for the most minute details. We’re very meticulous, creative, and innovative, and we value our history.

VIA DE L BU Y E R . C OM MAKING IT E ASIER FOR BUYERS TO FIND NE W LUXURY BR ANDS AND PL ACE ORDERS ONLINE

• Discover brands selected for quality, design and sales potential • Get access to digital trend reports and buying tips • Place orders of trend-setting collections from around the world on one platform

Request your free buyer access at www.viadelbuyer.com