Dossier by Buyi_d

FEBRU ARY 20 1 5

A Life less Ordinary

JENA DOVER

F EATURING

EDITOR’S LETTER

TENT N O

W O M E N S FA S H I O N

T R AV E L

100

OPINION

SHOPPING

17 S PA

You haven’t heard about Salon 58 yet? You’re in for a pleasant surprise! It’s the brainchild of style icon Jackie Berger, and it’s about to hit the local scene…

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BOOKS Every month we will be sharing with you all sorts of gems from the world of words. You’ll be introduced to the titles you need on your bedside table (both new and not-so-new), and will also encounter great authors, bookshops and literary festivals.

DE RIGUEUR From luxury luggage to skin smoothing elixirs, Dossier makes a list of some of the most popular beauty products on the market.

ART

TENT N O

OUT OF TOWN

WA T C H E S

52 COVER STORY

60 INTERVIEW

86 BEAUTY

28 HAIR

Hair trends this spring /summer by David Gillson, director and master stylist at carlton hair.

C Elizabeth “Philee“ Donaldson has been putting words to paper for over two decades.

RIBUTO

ELIZABETH DONALDSON

TAT WOLFEN Writer, reviewer, lecturer and multimedia communicator, Tat Wolfen has spread his considered and sometimes unwelcome opinion over newsprint (e.g. The Star, Citizen, Saturday Star), magazine pages (e.g. Style, Mari Claire, Total Movie), Internet and radio (702 Talkradio, Kaya FM, Chai FM). Tat’s also a photographer and videographer, and his musings on film and theatre occasionally spill out into the Twittersphere @Wolfmantat

ALEXANDER MATTHEWS Alexander Matthews is a freelance writer and editor based in South Africa. He mostly covers culture, design, travel and food. He has written for magazines such as MONOCLE, House & Leisure, Wanted, Marie Claire SA and newspapers including the Mail & Guardian, South Africa’s Sunday Times and its daily sister paper, The Times.

COVER STORY

Matthews is editor of AERODROME, a showcase of words and people. Founded in July 2013, it features book reviews, extracts, interviews and original short stories and poetry. Visit ww.aerodrome.co.za for more.

Make up artist, Katelyn Hughes Gown created by Quiteria & George Quiteria Lebohang Kekana and George Malelu

ADRIAN FRUSTENBURG

DANIEL SCHEFFLER

BUYISIWE DLAMINI

A Jo’burg original since 1982. Fashion editor, stylist, designer, traveler and philanthropist who speaks fluent Fashion.

is a writer based between New York and Cape Town. He is currently working on his first novel.

is a Jo’burg based graphic designer

’S LE TT

R TO

MIA ZIERVOGEL

Alexander Matthews, book editor with Mia Ziervogel

I started writing my Ed’s letter about feminism. Before I knew it I had an opus scanning from the role of parents to photoshop. I listed my heroes: Christine Legarde and Christiane Amanpour, and my disappointments - Anna Wintour. I have read Vogue for more than four decades and cannot tell you one thing Anna Wintour stands for, I have not read her editor’s letter once, although I have tried on several occasions, and all I can tell you about this woman is that she is an unsmiling thin lady with a bob. Not a great role model. As I was rambling on, my thoughts kept going back to ISIS. I am a news junkie. It is how I start and end my days. CNN and BBC. I am addicted to info, and I am far more interested in politics than fashion trends. This week I am trying to figure out what is happening in Ukraine. I am not having any luck thus far. It was in the culmination of all these thoughts that I wanted to gather and put into a worthy editor’s letter that I realised that our country has not got a feminist problem. We have another all too serious problem that no one wants to tackle. For the past few months, I have been following the stories of young European( born and bred) men, who want to give up all the western world hold dear, and join a group of men bent on destroying the whole world. I have watched interviews with normal European moms, from places like Norway and Netherlands, trying to explain their son’s journey into the dark. It is hard to understand. This week a friend of mine was armed robbed, and he showed the CCTV photographs of the faces of the men on Facebook, asking if anyone knew any of the men. Of course no one did. Over and over, we see faces of young men in police line ups. On TV. In the newspapers. Faces we all loathe, dread and fear to see in our homes in the dead of night. Those faces belong to the problem no one wants to address. The young frustrated male. When people start charities, it is always with such zest to help babies, puppies and cats. We are so quick to post on social media about the injustices towards animals, and the problems with our weather patterns. The world has a much larger problem, and no one wants to be part of it. It is a bit like reaching out to a very wild and angry dog. Will it bite? Probably. Do we care about why it is biting us? Not really.

From Isis to bombing and killing in Paris/Copenhagen/Sydney … To all our high jackings, theft, tik murders. We have a global problem with young men. Men who have certainly been left out of the system. The system we have of the small percentage of individuals who own our world, and who will make sure their family and friends inherit their stake on this earth. It leaves a whole lot of men in the dark. A frustrated young man is a ticking time bomb. And I do not see many people reaching out to them. Frustrated, lonely and without hope, it is easy to see why Jihadist leaders can lure them in. Firstly they offer friendship and more- becoming father figures where there was none before. And in that process, turn them into the menace that can behead 21 men in the sand with triumphant glee. In our country, these are they guys going to jail, getting out, further turn to crime until they die for a twenty or fifty rand. As a single mom, I do not think I can at all be of any assistance to this group that the world has rejected. What can I do? How can I reach out without getting hurt? That is what makes this problem so intense. I can easily knit a blanket for my friends who run the Mandela Blanket charity. Easy peasy. I have taken toys to Cotlands, and even got quite close to opening an Aids baby home. But this problem fills me with terror. We all do it- tense up if we see two or three young black faces lurking near us or our cars, our homes. It is a problem fro Paris to Missouri. Not just here. It must be hard to be a young black man. There are far more questions than answers. But I think it is time we open up the dialogue to discuss what we can at least start doing. The safety of our world depends on us getting this right. We can start with more sports centres and sports coaching in squatter camps. Equipping teachers to be better role models. Building training centres to help men find jobs. Mentorship programmes whereby men go out and offer fatherly advice in so many homes that have no father figure. I guess we can all think of something. It is the doing that is so difficult. But I know for sure, that women would definitely not have so many in challenges in our country, if we can address this forgotten group. I am not keen on twitter, but open for chat on my Facebook at Mia Ziervogel or at mia@dossier.co.za

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M. MICALLEF

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Exclusive French fragrance brand, M. Micallef, produced with a French tradition of craft and luxury, is set to grace African shores. Mon Parfum Gold - will be the first of their assembly of fragrances from luxury fragrance and beauty importer, Prestige Luxury Brands. It pays homages to the artistry, tradition and unmatched craftsmanship of classic parfumerie.

A light weight, non greasy silicone infused formula is instantly absorbed into the hair to produce luminous shine and silky perfection. If ever there has been anything to fix split ends completely…This is it! They can get the products from INOAR Stockist Hair Salons OR they can order it directly from INOAR Office simply by calling +27 12 686 7067 or send a mail with order and delivery address to info@inoar.co.za OR online order www.inoar.co.za

Mon Parfum Gold is the most mysterious of the Mon Parfum Collection. It reveals a fruity fragrance, enhanced by warm notes of vanilla and musk. Yet all its character lies in the mystery surrounding its creation. The nose who worked on the fragrance, Geoffrey Newjman, will never unveil the secret ingredients that take you to the land of “Arabian nights”. Its sparkling bottle with a breathless design, is a precious keep-sake. The charming village of Grasse in France is where all the fragrance bottles are crafted using bohemian crystal, delicately decorated using Swarovski stones and filled by hand in M.Micallef ’s workshop. Close your eyes and let yourself be spellbound.

SH OPPI NG

RIGUEUR

(də rē-gœr′) adj. R e q u i r e d b y t h e c u r r e n t f a s h i o n o r c u s t o m ; s o c i a l l y o b l i g a t o r y.

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SCIENTIFIC SPLENDOUR YY YY YY YY

GENERATIONS FURNITURE HYDE PARK

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LUCIA SILVESTRI Lucia Silvestri was just 18 years old when she began her career in the Bulgari gemmological department. As often happens in the case of true love, she was instantly enamoured by the world of precious stones. She fell in love, she says, “with the colours, the variety and the energy that I felt emanating from the gems”. At that point she chose to leave her biology studies and dedicate all her passion and enthusiasm to gemstones. The Bulgari brothers quickly intuited Lucia’s great potential, a talent to be nurtured, and decided to teach her the trade. As Lucia tells it, “I was the right person, in the right place, at the right time!”. At the ripe old age of 20 she began travelling the world, meeting with the world’s foremost gemmological experts, not to mention countless others in the field of jewellery with the most refined aesthetic sensibilities handed down through generations. Geneva, New York, Antwerp, Jaipur, Colombo… every trip was filled with unforgettable discoveries that

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SH OPPI NG

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became experience and, over time, expertise. Before taking on the complex and delicate responsibility of acquiring gems, she spent years sorting and selecting the semi-precious stones purchased by the Bulgari family. This was the mid-‘80s, when there were only 5 Bulgari shops in the world and the entire process of creating a jewel involved only a tight circle of family insiders, to which Lucia gained access through her intelligence and skill, participating in the magic of the birth of Bulgari’s astounding jewels. “One of the first things I learned”, Lucia recounts, “is to select and then acquire gems only if I could see a possible use for them, which means that in the very act of purchasing, before the design and realization phases, I was imagining compositions of colours and forms that might suggest the pieces of jewellery that they would become”. A creativity that is expressed, then, in the first instant of contact with a given stone, one that gives rise to forms and chromatic combinations that are often unexpected; that become, through the work of Bulgari’s designers and expert craftsmen, the exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces of the brand’s luxurious high jewellery line. Over the years, Lucia consolidated her autonomy to the point where she was doing the job that only the Bulgari brothers had done in the past – Director aof Gem Acquisitions. She travelled extensively, sometimes with the brothers, sometimes alone, in which case she would describe to them the cut and colour of a given gem by phone, unthinkable unless she had earned their total trust and proven her affinity with their tastes, acquired after decades of working together on a daily basis. On June 1st 2013, Lucia realized her lifelong dream by becoming Bulgari’s Jewellery Creative Director, reaffirming yet again her passion for precious stones and her extraordinary creative flair.

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SH OPPI NG

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DOSSIER LOVES DOLCE & GABANNA

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Photography by Gerry Pelser

GENERATIONS FURNITURE HYDE PARK

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SH OPPI NG

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DOSSIER LOVES PRADA GLASSES FROM LUXOTTICA…

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DOSSIER LOVES PERSOL GLASSES A brand synonymous with Italian style, Persol continues its journey through the design of some of the most fascinating objects of our past. Today, the story has a new chapter: the Typewriter Edition collection. This time, the focus is an object from the very recent past – the magnificent typewriter. Sadly rendered obsolete by 20 years of technological progress, the typewriter has been replaced by the much less charming computer. Nonetheless, the evocative power of these old machines remains undimmed.

DOSSIER LOVES PERRIER-JOUËT Since its foundation in 1811, Perrier-Jouët Champagne has maintained a creative spirit and quest for perfection. The Champagne house founded by Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and his wife Adèle Jouët has become synonymous with crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a Chardonnay hallmark. Made from the same superlative vines - the Avize and Cramant vineyards in France’s Champagne region, nearly 200 years since its creation, the French house was the first to recognise the importance of their fine Chardonnay grapes and soon began to export. In 1815, the luxury Champagne’s first shipments went to Great Britain, and in 1837, straw-filled baskets carrying a cargo of 2,000 bottles of Perrier-Jouët arrived in New York - a delivery that was pivotal in introducing one of France’s greatest exports to the rest of the world. Two centuries on and the personal touch of the brand has not changed, with the sophisticated luxury Champagne preserving its secrets through only seven Cellar Masters. In 1993, Hervé Deschamps became the 7th Perrier-Jouët Cellar Master, after ten years spent at his predecessor’s side mastering the subtleties of the House style and its unique floral tonality. As a guardian of this knowledge, he has since perpetuated and cultivated this precious heritage, fashioning, sculpting and pruning each of the vines that comprise his creations during their composition, with craftsman-like skill.

OPI NI ON

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TOP OF THEIR GAME

A savvy bunch of financial experts help clients personalise their business portfolios. The result? Wealth management on a completely different level

Of course, it helps if you’re good looking, personable and have cachet. But that’s only a fraction of the reason that Nick Liebmann and Clayton Stewart have found success. Their acumen and experience in the banking industry has stood them in good stead. Add to that a list of loyal clients and it’s no wonder that Caleo Capital is on everybody’s radar. The company was formed four years ago when Nick and fellow broker Garth Wellman decided to go it alone and offer a level of personalised financial management service that is not available in a banking environment. Caleo Capital is a boutique independent wealth management business. Execution is the company’s aim, and being hands-on is their signature. Having earned their stripes in the banking environment, all of the partners in the business are well-equipped to offer a personalised solution to every client. Their ongoing relationship within the banking industry ensures their success, whilst offering a level of detail and personal service that banks are not equipped to provide. “It’s not about making money or selling products,” Clayton explains. “It’s understanding what our clients’ goals are, what their vision is for the long-term. We then structure solutions that will help them reach their goals and build their portfolio.” Basically, Nick explains, the company designs financial blueprints that are exclusive to a particular client. The clientele they attract is forwardthinking high net-worth individuals. This creates an exciting and

challenging dynamic and enables Caleo’s directors to be innovative in both local and international financial markets. “Our goal is to get our clients’ money to work for them, to help them realise their financial and life objectives using our knowledge and experience. It’s about diversifying their business so that they can enjoy the fruits of their production and live their life the way they want to live it.“ As the company works independently, Caleo Capital is not beholden to any financial institution, so it is able to offer its clients an objective management service to suit their specific requirements. “It’s all about what’s best for the client,” says Nick. “Our job is to take financial problems off people’s shoulders, whether it’s because they are retiring and want to leave a legacy, immigrating to another country or just wish to diversify their interests. We connect with our clients on a human level, which is something you cannot do in a financial environment. We are concerned with their personal financial directive. We are there to alleviate stress and create a proper, sound financial structure.” So what’s the secret to their success? “People like working with people they enjoy spending time with. We represent that,” says Nick with a charming smile. For further information please visit www.caleocapital.co.za or contact 011 483 1182

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ON THE SHELF WELCOME

Welcome to On the Shelf, Dossier’s new literary column. Every month, I’ll be sharing with you all sorts of gems from the world of words. You’ll be introduced to the titles you need on your bedside table (both new and not-so-new), and will also encounter great authors, bookshops and literary festivals. And each month I’ll ask an interesting and inspiring creative about the four books they think you should read before you die; this month we start off with Emma Vandermerwe, a curator at Everard Read gallery in Cape Town.

- EMMA VANDERMERWE – curator, Everard Read

Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen: This novel combines wit, truthful social commentary in the 19th century and observations of a young woman as she searches for her “self ”. There is sharp humour, scathing social judgment and unsavoury gentry. Nowadays in contemporary reality TV, music and movies these same human values unfold on a daily basis – the battle of the sexes, romantic love lost and won, class systems and the thin social veils hiding loyalty and dishonesty. But rarely are they captured and explored with Austen’s timeless freshness and integrity. The Shock of the New: Art and the Century of Change by Robert Hughes: This is one of the best introductions to the modern art history, clearly mapping a critical understanding of the course of modern art through the 20th century. Originally written to accompany the television series, Hughes’s informative and well balanced chapters contextualise the visual arts in the history of the period, and leaves the reader asking and debating questions long after the book is over.

A SPORTFUL MALICE - MICHIEL HEYNS Closer to home, Michiel Heyns’s A Sportful Malice (Jonathan Ball), is an altogether lighter affair. This hilarious novel takes the form of emails sent from Michael Marcussi, a South African academic of Italian descent, to his partner back in Johannesburg as he cavorts around Florence and Tuscany. Heyns’s witty and elegant prose paints a relationship that is at risk of becoming seriously undermined by the egotistical Marcussi’s own self-regard. Heyns conjures up a cast of eccentric characters – a posh art-loving elderly English couple; a lumbering Cockney bouncer and the beautiful art student Paolo; these keep on reappearing as Michael travels. Why do they keep on popping up? You’ll just have to read it to find out...

French Provincial Cooking by Elizabeth David: First published in 1962, this is a culinary pilgrimage through provincial France including the areas of Alsace, Brittany, Provence, and the Savoie. Considered to be the crowning achievement in David’s career, it amalgamates recipes and anecdotes from some of the great chefs alongside those gathered from local provincial cooks. With elegance and joy David explores the authentic flavours and textures is a vast selection of short stories. Cited during that period by the The Times as “arguably the most influential cookery book of our age”, this book it is an essential for any food lover’s cooking library. Beloved by Toni Morrison: A haunting, powerful, dense novel by the Nobel laureate and a matriarch of contemporary African-American literature. Here the spirit of a murdered child in the shape of a mysterious young woman haunts the Ohio home of a former slave, Sethe. Dazzling and raw, the poetic narrative builds to its unstoppable painful conclusion and I feel it is arguably her best work to date.

- COLM TÓIBÍN’S

The Irish novelist Colm Tóibín’s new novel, Nora Webster (Viking), is a case in point – an exquisitely subtle yet powerful story of a middle-aged woman as she grieves in the aftermath of her husband’s untimely death from cancer. Set in late 1960s Enniscorthy, Ireland, the novel charts Nora’s adjustments as she builds a life without her husband. With gentleness and wisdom, Tóibín’s illuminates both the grief she feels, as well as the incremental steps taken towards transcending it; in the process of doing so, a fascinating portrait of marriage emerges. By the time you’ve finished the novel, you feel you’ve known and cared about Nora and her family for ages – a character who is, perhaps, leading an ordinary and unremarkable life, and yet remains utterly unforgettable.

BY ALEXANDER MATTHEWS

FOUR BOOKS TO READ BEFORE YOU DIE

NORA WEBSTER

GONE GIRL

- NICK, GILLIAN FLYNN

I tend to avoid novels with “bestseller” emblazoned across the front – the ones invariably stacked in pyramids at the front of chain bookshops. However, with all the buzz around Gone Girl, released late last year and starring Rosamund Pike and Ben Affleck, I thought I’d better cast my snobbery aside for once and read the book it’s based on (published by Orion). I’m glad I did. Recounting the days following mysterious disappearance of beautiful Amy Dunne on the day of her fifth wedding anniversary to Nick, Gillian Flynn’s novel is smart, pacy and gripping. Against the backdrop of an America reeling from the financial crisis, and its print media in terminal decline, we discover – in painfully intricate and intimate detail – the dynamics of a dysfunctional relationship. But with conflicting narratives, though, who is telling the truth?

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T H E R E F R E S H M E N T S TAT I O N An iconic Cape Town eating spot is reborn

I was a little bit sad when I heard that the Madame Zingara won the tender to run the restaurant in Cape Town’s historical green lung – the Company’s Gardens. The tearoom, housed in a mid-century glass and wooden structure, had been going for decades. It was a bit tatty – sticky tablecloths, wonky plastic seats – and the fare was of the old-fashioned, eating-on-the-hoof sort: milkshakes and toasted sandwiches were a favourite. But the place had character, charm – an authenticity that remained impervious to time and fashion. Madame Zingara had taken over several classic Cape Town eateries – Don Pedro in Woodstock, Café Mozart in the CBD’s pedestrianised Church Street – and operated a few more – Sidewalk Café, Bombay Bicycle Club. Each were different, yes, but had the same cosy, camp and slightly sanitised whimsy in its DNA. What would the Madame do once this beloved institution was in “her” clutches?

ALEXANDER MATTHEWS

OP INION

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We found out late last year, when the tearoom reopened late last year as Haarlem & Hope restaurant. And what a restaurant! The mid-century aesthetic has been lovingly embraced, with comfy lounge chairs from the period placed in cosy nooks, and Skinny laMinx Scandi-inspired cushions scattered everywhere. Chairs and tables spill out under giant trees; there’s giant weaver nest-style baskets to hide in; chunky wooden benches to squat on and a giant chess set (as well as smaller sets to play with at tables). The effect is to encourage you to linger, to really enjoy the garden.

And happily, the service and food match the sublime surroundings. Every time I’ve been there, the staff proved more than equal to the demands of a bustling restaurant – they were friendly and efficient (a rarity for Cape Town). The toasted sandwiches are still on the menu (at twice the price, I bet), but there’s a host of other options for breakfast and lunch too – some which allude to the Cape’s culinary heritage (a bobotie roti and smoorsnoek sarmie, for example) as well as comforting classics. I had a tasty omelette with brie, mushrooms onion jam, along with a mean flat white for breakfast. At lunchtimes I’ve enjoyed the burger (which comes with emmental, bacon and caramelised onions) as well as a brilliant Caesar salad.

Not long after opening, the place was soon mired in controversy. The Haarlem in its name was a reference to the New Haarlem, a Dutch ship that was wrecked on the Cape’s coast in 1647; its survivors allegedly planted the first vegetables (although this is disputed by historian Dr Bruno Werz). Zackie Achmat – that exemplar of kneejerk politically correct outrage – threw a hissy fit on Twitter, threatening to boycott the Madame Zingara group because the name, he said, was “callous celebration of colonial power”. Madame Zingara quickly capitulated, apologising, and changing the name to the simpler, less poetic “Company’s Gardens Restaurant”. The great irony of all this is that the new name is perhaps a more overt reference to “colonialism” than the previous name was, because the “company” referred to, is, of course, the Dutch East India Company, which was responsible for establishing the refreshment station in the Cape and was the first European body to control land in this area (at the expense of the poor Khoikhoi who were already living in the area).

Judging from the popularity of the place, it seems that – happily for the Madame Zingara group – either the name change has warded off boycotts or Capetonians and visitors simply don’t share the misplaced ire Achmat has. Perhaps what matters more to those that come here is that this is the perfect spot to refresh and recharge after a day of exploring the central city – and a great place, too, to reflect on Cape Town’s complex, fraught and compulsively fascinating history. thecompanysgarden.com IN THE GARDEN: After a visit to the restaurant, be sure to visit the nearby VOC Vegetable Garden – a historically Dutch-inspired fruit, vegetable and herb garden created last year by the council opposite the rose section of the Company’s Garden. Slightly further away, the Oranjezicht City Farm (ozcf.co.za) is an inspiring food garden with a popular weekly Saturday market in the nearby grounds of the Premier’s residence, Leeuwenhof. Both gardens aim to inspire people to grow their own food, think more carefully about where their food comes from, and have a better understanding of the powerful role agricultural has in the history and heritage of the Mother City.

PIAGET ROSE COLLECTION

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A BAD KOREA MOVE? Tat Wolfen deconstructs the drama around Seth Rogan’s otherwise inconsequential comedy, The Interview, and how it became a hot international news item.

I Take Offence… Last month’s terror attack in Paris is a terrible reminder that there are people in the world who feel entitled to attack – and even kill – those who have caused them offence. In Paris, the attack came from Muslim zealots who took umbrage at a magazine’s satirical depiction of their prophet.

Digging the Dirt On August 7th last year, Sony/Columbia pushed the movie’s release date from October 10th to December 25th. It had been a simple business decision. In mid-December, however, things started unravelling in an astonishing way, when the news of the data breach hit headlines round the world.

Some weeks before that, in December, someone – and we still haven’t put a face to him or her – took offence at a Hollywood movie that was due to be released on Christmas day. Whoever this person or organisation was, he/she or it knew his/her or its way around hacking software. This hacker or hacking syndicate – funded by the North Korean regime? We still don’t know – accessed Sony’s computer data and turned Hollywood on its ear. The film was…

The hackers released private e-mails, which caused the Sony execs huge embarrassment: Amongst the private e-mailed conversations leaked were that of studio exec Clint Culpepper, who opined that actor Kevin Hart was a money-grubbing chancer (“I’m not saying he’s a whore, but he’s a whore”), while hot-shot producer Scott Rudin joked with Sony exec, Amy Pascal, about Barrack Obama having a weakness for movies about slavery, or starring black actors. He also referred to what he regarded to be Angelina Jolie’s “insanity and rampaging spoiled ego”, and went on to call her “minimally talented” – which are not the kinds of descriptors that one would want to escape into public scrutiny.

The Interview The Interview is a zany comedy co-written and co-directed by, and starring, Seth Rogan. It tells of a smug and very popular TV host, Dave Skylark (played by James Franco) whose stock in trade is having celebrities reveal shocking things about themselves (Eminem’s gay! Rob Lowe’s bald!). Skylark’s producer is his school buddy Aaron Rapaport (Seth Rogan). Aaron is troubled, deep-down, by the thought that, despite their show’s huge ratings, it lacks ‘serious news’ respectability. When the chums discover that the North Korean dictator, Kim Jong-un, is a fan of their show, they decide to go over to North Korea and interview the reclusive “Supreme Commander”. This would not only be a world scoop, but a quantum leap towards respectability! America’s secret service gets wind of their plans, and indicate their approval – on condition that our heroes agree to kill the North Korean leader…

The head of Tri-Star Pictures (a division of Sony Pictures), Tom Rothman, said of Will Smith’s actor-kids, Jaden and Willow, “they r home schooled: don’t let this family date your movies!!!” Now, while it’s a sentiment with which many of us would agree, it isn’t the sort of beast you’d want to let loose in Hollywood’s rarefied and incestuous climes. And there was producer Michael De Luca, who made some remarks about Michel Fassbender’s wedding tackle, although these were at least complimentary! Details of Sony staffers’ and movie actor’s salaries were also leaked to the ’net, which is going to give huge headaches to studio bosses going forward, when it comes to negotiating who gets paid what. You can be sure that there were many performers who were completely up in arms: “You mean that two-bit, B-rater got paid more than I did?” And Then There Were The Threats Accompanying these revelations of Sony’s private data, came the threat to Sony that more would follow. They were also told that, if they released the movie, they would be unleashing terror attacks of 9/11 proportions at the participating cinemas. Here is part of their message, with the crude English kept intact:

IN TE RVIE W

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“We will clearly show it to you at the very time and places The Interview be shown, including the premiere, how bitter fate those who seek fun in terror should be doomed to. Soon all the world will see what an awful movie Sony Pictures Entertainment has made. The world will be full of fear. Remember the 11th of September 2001. We recommend you to keep yourself distant from the places at that time. (If your house is nearby, you’d better leave.) Whatever comes in the coming days is called by the greed of Sony Pictures Entertainment. All the world will denounce the SONY”.

Real-life baddies James Franco and Seth Rogen play buddies in this wild comedy about an American TV talk show that’s invited to visit the North Korean dictator.

This garbled mess was not going to win any literary awards, though – not for reasons of linguistic clarity – the major movie theatre chains told Sony/Columbia that they wouldn’t exhibit the film. (You can hear the box office funeral dirge). Apart from the obvious reasons, cineplexes that were situated within malls were pressurised by their lease-holders, who didn’t want to have Christmas shoppers staying away because of possible terror attacks. Also, there was the threat of legal action that many

victims, or dependents of victims, could take, in the event of an attack. Unlike the violent occurrence in that Aurora, Colorado cinema in 2012 (remember the young shooter who went berserk during the Batman movie?), lawyers of victims could argue that the cinemas could’ve prevented the carnage by not showing the movie. The public and media were, understandably, incensed. Who were the Koreans to ban or censor American movies – American movies in particular, which have never been restrained in criticising or lampooning American culture, or even American politicians or presidents. It was one of those rare events that united Left-wing, Rightwing and Libertarian Americans alike. Official Reaction The US president, Barrack Obama, saw fit to weigh in on the controversy by condemning Sony/Columbia – albeit in very diplomatic terms – for caving in to the cyber-terrorists’ demands, and pointing out the sacrosanct nature of the First Amendment, which guarantees freedom of expression. Well, that sounded all very noble, but those of us whose memories stretch back three years will be aware of the hypocrisy of such a pronouncement. In 2012, the Obama administration made a big show of arresting a filmmaker who had posted an “anti-Islamic” video on YouTube. Obama’s then-Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton, blamed “an awful Internet video” for a deadly attack on the American diplomatic compound in Benghazi, Libya, adding that it was “totally unacceptable”. It turned out that the YouTube video didn’t even have anything to do with the attack on the US mission, but that’s inconsequential to this debate. Here’s the thing: you either have freedom of expression or you don’t. If a film, broadcast, or publication offends someone, who then decides to seek vengeance, the resultant attack is not the “fault” of that item of media that inflamed the terrorist. That principle is immutable, regardless of the media “offense”, the nature of the attack, or who’s being attacked. Sony responded to the president’s criticism by saying that it was the theatre chains that didn’t want to show the movie, and not they who didn’t want to release it. Well, this was also not entirely honest of them, as there had been some independent theatres that had asked to show the film, but Sony had turned down their requests. Some indie theatres, in a quest to celebrate the First Amendment, then scheduled screenings of Trey Parker’s outrageous 2004 puppet comedy, Team America: World Police, which satirised, amongst other things, Kim Jong-il, the father and political predecessor of Kim Jong-un. However, Paramount Pictures got cold feet at the eleventh hour and forbade those screenings, too. Behind the Scenes There then followed a period of secrecy. The US government had promised to react “in kind”, although they gave no details right away. Some weeks later, they announced increased sanctions against North Korea, which many interpreted as a token gesture to appease an angry public. North Korea’s internet went down for few days, and whilst many speculated that this was the work of US government saboteurs, it was denied in official US circles. (Don’t cry for the average North Korean, however, as only a selected few North Koreans are allowed to have access to the Internet.) I’m guessing that there was a lot of communication going on between the US government and Sony, which perhaps involved determining whether the Guardians of Peace (the name the hackers gave themselves) were as big a threat as they made themselves out to be. My conclusion is that it was decided that the hackers were small fry as, before the cancelled Christmas day release date rolled around, the cancellation of the film’s release was withdrawn.

The One That Got Away. The 2004 parody that took aim at North Korea long before The Interview, but that the then-dictator apparently hadn’t noticed. Open, Closed, Open for Business The big cinema chains were still not interested (theatre down-time – and renovations – after bomb explosions must be very costly), but the film was released to 300 independent theatres – who must’ve been thrilled to get the jump on the big cinema groups for a change. Their theatres were clearly crammed to the hilt, as the film pulled receipts in excess of a million dollars on the opening day. In an unprecedented move, Sony simultaneously released the film on various online sites, bringing in more than $15million in its first four days. This tops all of Sony’s previous online releases. The film’s total take (theatrical and online) has exceeded $30million thus far, which sounds wonderful, but still doesn’t approach the cost of producing the film, which was over $40million for the filmmaking alone, excluding the marketing and other ancillary expenses – which must’ve been exorbitant, given all the security and legal issues that must’ve sprung from the hacking leaks. And we haven’t even started with the damage control and relationship-mending that must’ve taken place over December… I’m guessing that Sony was dispatching some very expensive Christmas prezzies all around the Hollywood hills… …And What About the Movie Itself? Watching a film around which so much hype has been attached, isn’t really fair to it – but hey; it turned out to be a highly enjoyable romp! Rogan and Franco are real-life buddies, and this shows in their warm on-screen chemistry – even if the overall project has a smug, self-congratulatory and indulgent air about it. The movie looks as if it could actually have been shot in North Korea – not that it was, or that I’m any kind of expert on that particular dictatorship (I prefer holidaying t DisneyWorld). As satire – not only of the North Korean regime, but American media – it’s a smart and entertaining piece of work. I just can’t help feeling that Rogen sacrifices much of its keen humour at the altar of sophomoric humour. It isn’t that I’m prudish; it’s just that lavatorial jokes are a cheap-and-easy route to laughs, which this film didn’t require in order to amuse. Twitter: @Wolfmantat Ster-Kinekor releases The Interview on the South African circuit on April 17th.

T A S T E JACKIE BURGER

You haven’t heard about Salon 58 yet? You’re in for a pleasant surprise! It’s the brainchild of style icon Jackie Berger, and it’s about to hit the local scene… Jackie Berger’s Salon Privé is going to be reminiscent of Chanel’s enclave in Paris, she tells us. And with her inimitable sense of style, we have no doubt that she will offer the local market something as lasting, and iconic. After all, Jackie has long been a local style icon. For years she headed one of the most influential international fashion titles on our shores, and although she’s left Elle now for new ventures, her reputation precedes her. Don’t be misled. Jackie is as savvy about everything as she is fashion-forward. She has considered every single facet of her latest venture with the same meticulous attention to detail she has for everything she touches. “Women here associate a salon with beautiful hair,” she says with a smile. “In fact, Salon 58 is based on the 17th Century notion of salons, places where women got together to engage, to converse. That was an era of enlightenment, pivotal in the history of women. In those days, salons were a place where women writers, artists and thinkers could gather and talk about the issues of the day, share conversations and exchange ideas. “Those salons sparked the idea in my mind. Having been in publishing for so many years, I wanted to create a space where we could engage with an audience on a different dimension, on a more experiential level. “Salon 58 will host regular soirées to continue this tradition in a modern context. The events will be seasonal, for instance, upcoming is autumn/winter, and each will have a single-minded theme covering fashion, food, décor, beauty.”

But spurring good conversation isn’t the only thing that Jackie tends to do. She’s also going to have an Armoire, a collection of carefully chosen items, exquisitely crafted garments and accessories that are timeless and luxurious. “They will transcend trends,” she says. “I want people to come into my little space and play dress up, embrace why we love certain pieces of clothing - often it’s a memory, the drape or the weight of silk on our bodies. I want women to come and rekindle those memories that trigger strong emotions, and remember the sensuality of a piece of fabric, the joy of the structure of a garment… Through clothes, I want women to find their own language.” And that brings us to the third part of the Salon 58 concept, what Jackie calls the Tête-á-Tête, an opportunity for her to impart her knowledge and inimitable sense of style in her Petit Salon, in a way that enables a woman to cultivate her own personality and style with her clothes, what Jackie calls “a sense of identity that extends beyond clothes”. Jackie is emphatic that it’s a two-way relationship. “It’s not about me waving a magic wand,” she says. “It’s about the person finding their own creative voice. I will be there to help and facilitate, but it’s their journey, a journey we will initially walk together.” Jackie feels that the world has become infatuated with instant gratification. “We don’t linger anymore,” she says regretfully. So, in complete contrast, Salon 58, will be about slowing down, she says with a smile. With our frenetic 21st Century lifestyles, if she can teach us to do that, and can impart some of her iconic style in the process, local fashionistas have something to look forward to. Website www.salon58.co.za by Sharon Preston

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I N S E C TA M I R A B I L I S Hendrik Vermeulen Couture 2014 Collection Photo Shoot by Nathalie Bardin

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Q&A WITH HENDRIK VERMEULEN

How did your career start? After the passing of my father when I was 6, I spent a lot of time with my mother while she was sewing. She was a skilled seamstress and talented dressmaker. We lived in the Free State in a remote little town. That is where it all started for me.

Q Like most designers, did your mom influence you?

Q What has been the response Internationally? The response from the events organisers, fashion industry professionals and particularly from the public, has been phenomenal. Of course, in Italy every Italian has an accurate sense of style and have fashion embedded in their DNA, no matter if they are bus drivers or fashion editors. They just have to give a glimpse to your garments and the crucial verdict falls: “Si” or “No”

Well, in my case certainly… I was a “laat lammetjie” with 15 and 16 years difference with my siblings and since I was left with only one parent, I was strongly influenced by my mother. I wonder if my dad survived, I would have followed his steps and become Mayor of Fauresmith instead?

The fashion situation in South Africa is almost similar to that of other parts of the World; the big financial groups for the last 20 years have made use of opportunities by mass producing garments in Asia, this has lead to produce generic fashion all over the World lacking personality and identity. South Africa, with its incredible pool of creative designers, has a big role to play in the future of fashion in Africa and beyond; provided that full support and real financial means are given to entities like the South Africa Fashion Council to filter and select the right candidates to promote and/or launch on local and International platforms, as to give them visibility and to bring awareness to their brand/ products. With an annual global fashion industry revenue of ±US$1’200’000’000’000 (statistics Nov 2014), South Africa would be foolish not to want a piece of that pie to boost its economy.

You have been showing your work at International Fashion Weeks, how did that come about? Our first International showcase was in Mozambique; the producer of all shows for Mozambique Fashion Week, South African Anneliese Le-Breton, proposed for us to close the Pan African show in 2010. We were invited to MFW the following year again, as the audience really liked our previous presentation/collection. Perth Fashion Week in 2012 was an invitation from the organisers of the World Fashion Week where we represented South Africa. In 2013, The Vice-President of AltaRoma - AltaModa (Rome Fashion Week), Signora Valeria Mangani, discovered our Facebook page and complimented me on my creations; this was followed by a proposal to showcase our Couture Collection in June 2014 at World of Fashion, an initiative of AltaRoma. The showcase in Rome in July last year was a great success and under the umbrella of “Made in Italy” we have been invited to be part of the panel of designers selected by “La Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana” (The National Chamber of Italian Fashion) and will be presenting our first Autumn/Winter Prêta-Porter collection entitled “Smoke & Mirrors.” Successively at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York (15 February, 7pm EST at The Salon Lincoln Center) and Milan Fashion Week beginning of March.

How would you describe the current situation of fashion in SA?

Q Dossier is constantly contacted by young designers, asking for guidance. Do you have any ideas you could share? Sure… Be yourself, believe in yourself and in what you are creating. Enrol in a fashion institution to gain a good base and register with your local fashion council.

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CREDITS Photographer: Nathalie Bardin (Norwegian-French) MUA: David Sharp for Lanc么me Hair: Nadia Hearne Hair on a HVCreative Concept Jewels: Custom Made for the Collection by Ansia Jonck from Ansia Jonck Jewellery Design Art Direction & Styling: JD Meyer-Vermeulen for HVCreative Hendrik Vermeulen Couture 79 Hout Lane, Cape Town, CBD, 8000, South Africa info@hendrikvermeulen.com Tel: +27 21 424 1686 - 0861 LOVE HV (5683 48)

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L U I S A S PA G N O L I South African aficionados are abuzz with news of the arrival of a luxury women’s clothing brand – Lusia Spagnoli

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L U S I A S PA G N O L I Everyone associates Chanel with vintage European style, but Luisa Spagnoli was conceived many, many years before. It’s actually Europe’s oldest label. The Spagnoli family still runs the business today, with the founder’s great grandchild, Nicoletta Spagnoli as the current CEO. She has put her stylish creativity into designing a different line aimed at a younger clientele. The tailored clothing and knitwear products are a result of a mix of creative energy and high-quality workmanship. The Hyde Park Corner and V&A Waterfront stores join a pool of 200 stores worldwide, 152 being in Italy.

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“CALL IT SPRING is all about experimenting with your style and having fun with your friends,” explains Vanda Daftari, Art Director. “With this campaign, we wanted to explore how you could transform your environment in and around an urban site.” Season after season, the CALL IT SPRING campaign follows a group of friends on everyday adventures. Filled with idiosyncratic moments, these journeys help them carve out their identities and discover what it means to be unique. Always taking a personal and poetic angle, CALL IT SPRING’s campaigns play on the thoughts and dreams of this generation, catering to their need of individuality. Campaign Cheat Sheet Photographer: Tim Barber Senior Art Director: Reanna Evoy

Art Director: Vanda Daftari Stylist: Havana Laffitte Videographer: Peter Szollosi Location: Berlin, Germany About CALL IT SPRING The ultimate destination for killer shoes and accessories, CALL IT SPRING is the perfect go-to for today’s most coveted trends with equally pretty price-tags. lt’s the inspiration you feel when putting together a new look, the creativity of flirting with fresh styles. it’s about discovery and freedom and making your fashion a show-and-tell for who you are. You call it love, we CALL IT SPRING. CALL IT SPRING has a strong presence worldwide with close to 900 locations in 23 countries across North America, the Middle East, Europe and Asia. The brand also has widespread distribution as a shopin-shop concept in 510 JCPenney stores in the United States, and in 45 Debenhams stores in the U.K. For more Information or to shop the collection, visit callltsprlng.com, and for what’s new and cool, stay up-to-date via our new bios, blog.callitspring.com.

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CALL IT SPRING hits the road and lands in Berlin, where our cool kids are taking over the city. The Fall 2015 ad campaign is all about fun hacks that turn the old into the new, the static into the dynamic. One roll of coloured tape at a time, our cast of characters is changing the way we see our environment and turning our surroundings into a playground. What better way to show off the return of grunge classics and fun wardrobe staples than in this super colourful setting?

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CALL IT SPRING

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ART

ART IN 5 PHLEE DONALDSON

Is there something or someone who is changing the face of local art? I think that the growth of art fairs in South Africa is propelling us onto the international art scene. The FNB Art Fair has been running successfully for many years and now, the addition of the Turbine Art Fair, will provide an opening for South African art to an even wider audience.

MEGAN KIDD - IN TOTO What was the most interesting development in South African art this year? We experienced a settling in the art market. It’s taken six years to feel very secure after the crash in September 2008, but this year was a great year with fast-growing support from clients.

What do you hate about art or working in the world of art? I find it frustrating that art and culture is low on the list of priorities for government. I understand that we have severe economic, social and political urgencies, but without encouraging children to appreciate and understand art , we will create generations of South Africans who never come into contact with our visual heritage. Your favourite artists? Marion Boehm, Ilana Seati, Mary Sibande, Helmut Starke Best new artists? Nina Torr, Gawie Joubert, Danielle Hewlett, Gavin Wright, Leanne Shakenovsky

NEIL DUNDAS - GOODMAN GALLERY What was the most interesting development in South African art this year? The announcement of the new Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art being built at the Waterfront in Cape Town. At last; a really great museum with a contemporary collection of African works, in South Africa! Is there something or someone who is changing the face of local art? The growing interest in showing South African artwork in the international art world is causing many young artists to re-evaluate their work and how they see themselves in the wider context of the arts, not just in the parochial setting of their home city or this country. Kudzanai Chiurai was among a few local artists invited to participate in a programme of five exhibitions to reopen the Rotterdam Kunsthalle this year, with Simon Gush and Kemang Wa Lehulere.

Best new artists? Haroon Gunn-Salie and Nolan Dennis

ART

Your favourite artists? This does change from time to time as I’m always amazed by new works, but some favourites remain: David Goldblatt, Sam Nhlengethwa, Walter Oltmann, and both of the late Ezrom Legae and Robert Hodgins

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What do you hate about art or working in the world of art? I hate the fact that the fine arts play second fiddle to sports in our country. I also hate the increasing emphasis on art that is likely to appreciate the most and the quickest, rather than a focus on what is best or most deserving of support.

JULIA MEINTJIES - JULIA MEINTJIES FINE ART What was the most interesting development in South African art this year? The most exciting event is having Pieter Toerien and RMB bring War Horse to South African stages – a landmark vote of confidence in local creative talents. Also, the strategic positioning of the FNB Johannesburg Art Fair as an African Art Fair, evidence that ArtLogic is taking into consideration the international interest in our continent, added positive challenges and opportunities both from aesthetic and market perspectives. I also believe that the differences developing between the Turbine Art Fair, the Cape Town Art Fair and the FNB Johannesburg Art Fair are broadening the range of works and price points for viewers as well as offering wider opportunities to artists, especially emerging makers. Is there something or someone who is changing the face of local art? Hopefully there are too many faces in local art for one event or person to garner such power. One of the great attributes of South African art has always been its diversity. However, I am bothered by a current trend of depicting large images of faces – stylised, bland, good looking youths and rather sentimentally-portrayed children - that the market is lapping up. What do you hate about art or working in the world of art? The fact that professions in the arts are not considered as important to the functioning of society as, for instance, lawyers or teachers…. Also,

in a country as status-aware as ours, we work hard to convince people to spend even 10% of what they might spend on a prestige car, on a work of art. Fortunately there are some trail blazing art collectors who lead by example. They know that art provides interest for years (often on more than one level!) and it’s exciting to see how many younger collectors are following their lead and acquiring works by artists of their own generation, which makes an enormous difference to current artists. Your favourite artists? As always, my ‘favourites’ change depending on the projects and ideas with which I am involved with or the art collectors with whom I am working, and are usually works of art rather than artists. Currently, I’m researching the non-editioned woodblock print of a blind cat made by Cecil Skotnes in 1960 – of which he printed only about 9. It’s the cat which partly inspired William Kentridge’s cats. I’m also working with a 1943 oil by JH Pierneef of a camping scene of which we hope to locate the actual camp site, and the people in the painting as this is historically interesting. And then, Johannes Segogela’s sculptures standing on our office table give all of us at Julia Meintjes Fine Art immense pleasure. Best new artists? ‘Best artist’ is not part of my vocabulary – every artist working seriously with visual language has a different voice and every curator or collector looking at their works will respond in different subjective ways. Some of the artists whom I am encouraging to work and exhibit right now include Stephan Carstens, Cassandra Wilmot, Desmond Mnyila.

ART IN 5

D AW I D R A S - F I N E A R T C O N S U L TA N T What was the most interesting development in South African art this year? The rise in the awareness of art amongst the general population has gained momentum. Not only are there more young collectors, but there are more once-off buyers looking at ‘real’ art as opposed to ‘mall’ art.

(The Manifesto for The Superblur Art Movement. Superblur refers to a method of creating art using the definition of the word blur, thus the focus of the art will be to make the object or classification of the art unclear or less distinct. Superblur will also focus elements that cannot be seen or heard clearly. When photography is used with the elements of Superblur in mind, the camera will be manipulated or even be shaken to blur the picture and the aim is to produce images that are similar to abstract art in painting. Instead of creating art for the sake of art, elements of art movements such as Superflat, Superstroke, Cubism and so forth, will be blurred in an attempt to create art that will be known as Superblur art. The symbol for Superblur is the abstract bar code to differentiate it from other art movements such as Neo-Expressionism.)

Is there something or someone who is changing the face of local art? The Turbine Art Fair has brought a breath of fresh air to the art world. Visitors can decide for themselves what is ‘good’ art and what is ‘bad’ art.

Best new artists? Wilhelm Saayman. He’s not necessarily ‘a young upcoming’ artist, but he gets more and more dedicated and focused as he matures.

What was the most interesting development in South African art this year? The Superstroke Art Movement is still one of the most interesteing developments in South African art. It’s one of just a few art movements that exist in Africa, and is only preceded by Fook Island, an Art Movement whose originator was the well known South African artist Walter Batiss. The Superstroke Art Movement is a direct decedent of the concept of Generalism, and is also greatly influenced by the Superflat, the Japanese Art Movement founded by Takashi Murakami. Artist in the Superstroke movement use expressive or violent brush, pen, charcoal stroke Is there something or someone who is changing the face of local art? The Superblur Art Movement is definitely changing the face of local art. Its part of the Superstroke Movement but focuses specifically on the meanings of the word blur to create art. What do you hate about art or working in the world of art? I wish the art scene was producing more complex art, but I don’t really hate anything in particular. Favourite artists? Vincent Hloniphani Mbeje and Ayanda Nkosi are my favorite artists and are also the best new artists to have emerged this year.

ART

Your favourite artists? Anton Karstel and Zolile Phetshane are two of my favourite artists. I’ve seen the prices of both rising over the last few years – not that prices are the only way to measure the quality of art works.

CONRAD BO - FOUNDER OF SUPERSTROKE MOVEMENT

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What do you hate about art or working in the world of art? Working in the world of art is always fun: unique artists, fascinating buyers and wonderful artworks. But I find it sad to see how the art world often places obstacles between the public and art: unapproachable gallery curators, long academic speeches, long explanations of art works. The ideal should be to invite people in, guide them and let the art works speak for themselves

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ELLER W Y E

CHARLES GREIG Shot by Vanessa Lewis

Photography by Vanesa Lewis

J EW ELLERY

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CREDITS Model: Lana - Boss Models Jewels: Charles Greig Set Styling: Adrian Furstenberg

J EW ELLERY

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CREDITS Photography: Vanessa Lewis Model: Lana - Boss Models Jewels: Charles Greig Set Styling: Adrian Furstenberg

HORLOGERIE 1) 2) 3) 4)

Jaeger-LeCoultre REVERSO Ladies Watch in 18CT Rose Gold and Diamonds Jaeger-LeCoultre REVERSO Ladies Watch in 18CT Rose Gold and Brown Alligator Strap DuomĂ¨tre UNIQUE TRAVEL TIME in 18CT Rose Gold and Brown Alligator Strap Jaeger-LeCoultre RENDEZ-VOUS TOURBILLON in 18CT Rose Gold and Diamonds

WAT C H ES

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HORLOGERIE 1) Jaeger Le-Coultre - DUOMÉTRE À QUANTIÈME LUNIARE 18Ct White Gold with Black Aligator Leather Strap 2) Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in Titanium and Black Aligator Strap 3) Master Grande Tradition TOURBILLON Cylindrique à Quantième PERPÉTUEL in Platinum and Black Alligator Strap 4) Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in Titanium and Titanium Strap 5) Cartier

HORLOGERIE 1) 2) 3) 4) 5)

PIAGET LIMELIGHT AURA 18K white gold set with 26 emeraldcut diamonds and 14 baguette-cut diamonds. Dial set with 48 emerald-cut diamondS. Bracelet in 18K white gold set with 205 emerald-cut diamondS Jaeger-LeCoultre MASTER GRANDE ULTRA THIN in Steel and Black Alligator Leather Strap Jaeger-LeCoultre REVERSO SQUADRA LADIES DUETTO in 18Ct White Gold and White Alligator Leather Strap Jaeger-LeCoultre REVERSO SQUADRA LADIES DUETTO in 18Ct White Gold and White Alligator Leather Strap Jaeger-LeCoultre MASTER GRANDE ULTRA THIN in Steel and Black Alligator Leather Strap

WAT C H ES

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HORLOGERIE 1) Jaeger-LeCoultre 2) Paiget 3) Jaeger-LeCoultre RENDEZ-VOUS DATE in 18CT White Gold and Diamonds with Cream Alligator Leather Strap Layout by Marc Bernard

WAT C H ES

12 Fun and fearless designs produced with the latest and lightest collection of Irony products. Statement style is achieved with futuristic elements such as aluminum and brightly coloured plastics - to take these chronographs to a total new level of fun and functionality.

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S WA T C H I N T R O D U C E S A D Y N A M I C F U S I O N W I T H T H E XLITE COLLECTION

Known for creating accessories that re-imagine an African aesthetic, Pichulik worked with Henning and Paulsen to add a bold and unexpected dimension to their SS15 collection. The inclusion of PICHULIK’s jewellery furthermore served to mark Adriaan Kuiters’ larger and more cohesive womenswear collection. The designs were inspired by movements like Dadaism and Constructivism which pioneered collage as an art form in the ’20s and ’30s and rely on clean lines and colour-blocking. “The new prints we developed required new adornments to balance them and PICHULIK’s aesthetic perfectly complimented the on-trend sporty-meets-arty collection and fabrics,” says Henning.

Fabrics such as knits, crêpe, chiffon, neoprene, cotton, twill and abaya form the perfect backdrop for PICHULIK’s neckpieces, bracelets and earrings that were designed specifically for the various looks. Staying true to the PICHULIK aesthetic, handcrafted handbags were lined with vibrant prints to contrast with the striking black of the bag and decorated with the signature PICHULIK tassel. “I wanted to create pieces that excite and as always created these colourful and bold designs for women who push the boundaries and honour beauty,” says Pichulik. Photographs by: Nico Krinjo The collection is now available to shop online at www.pichulik.com

WAT C H ES

Award-winning accessories designer Katherine-Mary Pichulik has teamed up with designer Keith Henning of Adriaan Kuiters and artist Jody Paulsen on their S/S15 collection accessorised by PICHULIK.

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AK X JP X

R TREND I A PHOTOGRAPHY BY NACHO OOSTHUISEN

K-POP

S 0 9 0 ’s

A super funky, fresh pop look for the young rebels in the streets of the big city. This look originates from Japanese popular culture. The cut includes faux lines of pastel and bleach with a “let’s go for a cocktail downtown” look. Colour is best achieved by Davines Pure Colour.

Back from the 90s, a very trendy movement look inspired by dance crop tops and pants, but based on the punk rock star look. It’s all about cutting-edge sleek hair. Dust those irons off and get straightening! PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION: DAVINES ESSENTIALS OI/OIL

PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION: DAVINES ALCHEMIC RED CONDITIONER

50’S and 60’S (HONOLULU) With such a daring name as is above, we get to experience a look down memory lane in our great diva’s days a la Miss Monroe and Betty Page. It is elegance with well-refined looks utilising large crimps that add bounce and volume, yet brave with bright coppers and reds. PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION: DAVINES MORE INSIDE THIS IS A VOLUME BOOSTING MOUSSE

SURFER GIRL A much deconstructed look with textured messy buns, all side swept, or curls with a matt finished texture. Highlights are so passé, and one should rather opt for the Davines Flamboyage technique in which subtle highlights are added to emphasise tone and texture in such a way that it looks much more natural and flattering. PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION: DAVINES MORE INSIDE THIS IS A SEA SALT SPRAY

QUICK FIX BLOW DRY Born in the US, the latest trend is affordable luxury and efficiency of dry bars, such as Carlton Hair’s new Blow Dry Bar available at selected salons in Johannesburg and Cape Town. A quick but professional dry blow and off you go. No appointment needed and no fuss. Just walk in and in no time you’re ready for that important meeting or your special night out! Opening hours are extended to accommodate emergency blow dries from 7am to 7pm (or even 9pm at certain salons). PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION: It Factor® – the first haircare line formulated to save drying and styling time. It Factor ® products contain superior conditioning and detangling ingredients which allow for quicker styling. Drying time is reduced by VaporBoost which speeds up the natural process of evaporation. Furthermore, It Factor® products are safe for all hair types, free of all harsh alcohols, sulfates, sodium chloride and parabens. DAVID GILLSON, DIRECTOR AND MASTER STYLIST AT CARLTON HAIR

H AI R

by DAVID GILLSON, DIRECTOR AND MASTER STYLIST AT CARLTON HAIR

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HAIR TRENDS THIS SPRING /SUMMER

N AT U R A L T E C H REPLUMPING SHAMPOO

This no-rinse treatment compacts, tones and replumps hair structure. It gives hair longer lasting hold and excellent anti-humidity effect. Hair looks compact, voluminous and very shiny.

The selected active ingredients give elasticity, moisturize and protect hair during cleansing. The creamy texture produces thick, rich foam. It cleanses gently without altering hair structure. NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Essential petit grain oil - gives elasticity and compactness Gentle surfactants - to gently clean Plum phytoceutical - to prevent cell ageing

HOW TO USE: Apply Replumping Shampoo and, if needed, Replumping Conditioner; towel dry hair thoroughly and spray Hair Filler on (approximately 3 g all over hair). Do not rinse out. Hair is ready for styling. NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Hyaluronic acid - hydrate deeply

Price: R240 Quantity: 250ml

Price: R342 Quantity: 100ml

S E A S A L T S P R AY

REPLUMPING CONDITIONER Formulated to untangle, compact and give hair better elasticity. The selected active ingredients give moisturize and protect hair. HOW TO USE: Wash hair with Replumping Shampoo, remove excess water and apply product to lengths and ends. Leave on for 2-3 minutes then comb through. Rinse out thoroughly. NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Essential petit grain oil - gives elasticity and compactness Gentle surfactants - to gently clean Plum phytoceutical - to prevent cell ageing Price: R223 Quantity: 150ml Available countrywide. To locate your nearest stockist, please contact Davines South Africa on T +27 11 791 3385 | www.davines.com | davinessa

Styling spray made of sea salt that gives the hair colourings fullness and body with a matte finishing. Benefits: YY adds texture YY extreme volume YY light control YY dry effect: it gives an untidy and beachlike look YY gives body while minimizing the electrostatic effect The formula is paraben-free and with no added colourings. HOW TO USE: Spray to wet hair before styling to give body or to dry hair to increase the volume and the mat effect. Depending on hair density, length and desired effect, apply between 3g and 5g of product. Price: R245 Quantity: 250ml

S T R O N G D R Y WA X Forage cardigan brunch, literally meggings aesthetic 8-bit Williamsburg pop-up health goth actually before they sold out seitan +1 tattooed. Skateboard typewriter polaroid Banksy. Direct trade skateboard readymade, Tumblr drinking vinegar vinyl slow-carb mixtape vegan sartorial cronut. Forage brunch plaid, Portland Blue Bottle wolf fixie. Echo Park four dollar toast organic, mumblecore health goth hoodie banh mi biodiesel American Apparel fashion axe food truck Shoreditch four loko jean shorts direct trade. Bushwick narwhal Portland skateboard. Pork

belly Portland cred, single-origin coffee try-hard irony aesthetic master cleanse tattooed Pinterest. Stumptown meggings Pitchfork Kickstarter health goth. Fingerstache cornhole vinyl, lo-fi messenger bag lumbersexual typewriter leggings hoodie. Polaroid migas bicycle rights, McSweeney's master cleanse hoodie authentic Tumblr Etsy. Lo-fi stumptown aesthetic migas gentrify hoodie, four loko Portland Odd Future 8-bit Brooklyn Helvetica chambray. Street art pop-up chambray actually chia iPhone PBR four authentic Tumblr Etsy. Lo-fi stumptown aesthetic.

Available countrywide. To locate your nearest stockist, please contact Davines South Africa on T +27 11 791 3385 | www.davines.com | davinessa

H AI R

REPLUMPING HAIR FILLER SUPERACTIVE L E AV E - I N

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CHEVEUX

R STO R Y

THE COVER UNCOVERED Jena Dover – child star, lawyer, actress, model, news anchor– and our favourite cover girl.

C OVER ST ORY

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COVER STORY - JENA DOVER Enveloped in Lanvin Éclat perfume, Jena enters the studio,exuding drama and femininity, puts a smile on everyone’s face in the studio and is happy to wear an immaculate piece of art for our cover. Sitting down for makeup with the artist using products from the internationally acclaimed MAC brand, starts the process of trends in texture and the transformation begins on her flawless face. A blend of Natural Radiance Prep and Prime Base gives a dewy look, but doesn’t cover her freckles. The eye application is focused on texture, which was achieved by using netting to create a unique winged pattern to the eye with pops of Black Glitter and finished off with Extreme Dimension Mascara, Black Track Fluid line . The Reflex Gold pigment in the duct of the eye was the final touch for this magical look. Natural contours were created with Harmony Blush using Vanilla Pigment and Creme Colour Base in Hush and her lips were lined in Naked Lip Liner, covered with a clear lip gloss. The make up artist, Katelyn Hughes completed the look by taking her fierce red locks and like a poet built a beautiful poem with words and stanzas. The most exciting part of the shoot was most certainly the glorious gown created by Quiteria & George. These fabulous designers created a masterpiece out of black paper … yes, actual paper. Several days were spent cutting, folding, rolling and tearing several meters of paper that was combined with fine craftsmanship to create a piece of art that did not only blow our minds, it left us with tears in our eyes. Quiteria Lebohang Kekana and George Malelu have over 10 years experience in the South African Fashion Industry. With a formidable rap sheet in the local fashion industry, including design for South Africa’s celebrity A-list, being part of Young Designers Mzansi Initiative, Johannesburg Fashion Week 2009, and an Ambassador for Mpumalanga Fashion Week, Quiteria Lebohang Kekana, is infamous for his expressive and flamboyant designer wear. Quiteria is influenced by the diversity of South African Culture. He describes his work as architecture in motion. He approaches his designs with a genius that reconciles various eclectic elements, to produce an output, that makes the mundane - fantastic. Says Quitera, “Timeless fashion is achieved through intelligent design which accentuates individual style, yet still manages to keep abreast with current fashion trends.” George Malelu had never predicted that when he made the authentic decision of switching his career option from Political Science to Fashion, his work would have graced the Vodacom Durban July Young Designer Initiative (2009), The Royal Basotho Family as well as the stages of the Miss World pageant in London, Ordos and China. His success is due to his emphasis on classic silhouettes and design. Making use of unusual and modern fabrics, the wearer of the garments is ensured classic comfortable fits with a modern twist, that is expressed through the various fabric prints and textures used. “In today’s dynamic fashion environment, it takes a significant amount of creative genius to continuously re-invent a traditionally rigid yet sophisticated design theme into an evergreen style that draws heavily from the past but continues to be truly vanguard.” All of this is completed to perfection by master photographer Micheal Lewis, SA’s top commercial photographer.

LLECTIO GUCCI

CREDITS Photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott GUCCI collections are available exclusively at GUCCI Boutiques in Cape Town and Johannesburg in Southern Africa. For further information please contact their stores on 021-421 8800 (V&A Waterfront, Cape Town) or 011784 2597 (Nelson Mandela Square, Johannesburg) or visit www.gucci.com

LLECTIO G STAR

G - S T A R R AW

G-Star RAW has captured its brand essence of jeans for a perfect jean

“Apart from being sensual and feminine, my models are also strong,

for every body by enlisting Ellen von Unwerth to photograph the

persuasive, intense…

campaign, a natural fit in itself with her affinity for denim and forte with the female subject. Ellen von Unwerth was born in Germany in

G-Star has always has been on the raw, spontaneous, kind-of-young-and-

the mid 1950’s. She worked in a circus as assistant to the knife thrower

wild side – my work fits them in that way.” Ellen von Unwerth

and as a model after being discovered walking down the street in her native Munich. Von Unwerth’ first success at the other end of the

Using a slogan-hashtag combination, “Wear it #tightorwide” carries the

camera started when shooting Claudia Schiffler. As a photographer,

campaign into an online activation, encouraging one to voice their opinion

Von Unwerth could capture models in a fun, yet sexy way.

about how they wear their jeans; their preferred tightness, or wideness. With the industry’s current liking for all things “boyfriend”, baggy, or flared, vying against the much-loved skinny jean – #tightorwide

G - STAR

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G - STAR

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F O O D B Y D A N I E L S C H E F F L E R

TYPING ROOM Discreetly hiding in East London’s Town Hall Hotel the Typing Room manages to bring that innovative British cuisine and ingredients together with European magic. With an open kitchen and no fancy tablecloths the food here is first prize. A tasting menu includes raw venison with horseradish and turnip, lobster with dashi and lardo, yeasted cauliflower with raisins, mint and capers, smoked eel with orange duck and red cabbage, halibut with spices, Cumbrian shorthorn beef with hazelnut and watercress, a cheese selection, smoked apples with Jack Daniel’s and then unrepeated wines with every course. End it off with a cep brûlée, figs and condensed milk. typingroom.com

FO OD

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BLANCHETTE

A little French bistro paradise in the middle of SoHo – that’s Blanchette. Based on the concept of French family dishes, the three brothers – Maxime, Yannis and Malik – have created the ultimate dinner spot for the seekers of simple yet incredible French fare. Indulge in bake St Marcelin, duck rillettes, croquet monsieur, foie gras mi-cuit with piment d’espelette, daube of pig cheeks with Dauphinoise Croquette, braised lamb shoulder with anchovies and rosemary and frites of course. To close off the evening you’ll want to have the passion fruit vacherin with a noisette. blanchettesoho.co.uk

IN LONDON

FEAST FOR THE NEW YEAR Eating is one of those things that we have to do, it’s like breathing or drinking water – we can go without it for a little while (depending on how your reserves are) but eat we must. But besides for the absolute necessity of it there is also some of the greatest pleasure in a bite, a morsel, a meal, a feast – when the magical flavours come together in that one simple moment when time stops and the soundtrack starts to play. We do it three (or more) times a day, and we feel guilty about some of these and we arrange to do it again and again, sometimes alone and sometimes with friends – it’s inescapable. Even so food has changed radically. The GMO situation, the wellness uber organic movement and the renewed focus on all things retrospective (basically what our grannies ate) have all been on the plates of the world. Some of the most interesting (visually and beyond) food spots are in London and all over Asia. Let’s make a meal of them.

HUTONG High up in London’s new Shard, Hutong is a northern Chinese restaurant to embraces the traditional but brings a little unexpected to every meal. The dark woods, traditional reds and festive atmosphere is perfect when London’s clouds part and you want to sit in a beautiful

box above the city. The signature menu includes pork belly with cucumber, Peking duck rolls, deboned lamb ribs, spicy minced pork with string beans, hopeless amounts of amazing dim sum and a red bean paste pancake with lychee sorbet to close. hutong.co.uk

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In the absolute center of England’s capital is where Ten Room opened in the newly redone Hotel Café Royal. Regent Street’s pride hosts this informal dining all-day-restaurant with executive chef Andrew Turner carrying its flame. Known for their exquisite wine selection, the menus compliment both ways. Start with lobster and fresh water prawn, Loch Duart salmon ceviche with fennel and gluten free soy dressing and move on to Lobster “Pompadour” or Roast Côte de boeuf with bone marrow for two. Something sweet comes best in the form of an exotic fruit mousse with marshmallows. hotelcaferoyal.com

E M B E R YA R D With a no reservations policy Ember Yard, in the heart of SoHo, takes inspiration from both Spanish and Italian methods of cooking over charcoal. Decorated in woods, brown beautiful leathers and orange lead glass the underground haven is where to sit for your feast. A set menu often includes grilled flatbread with smoked butter, a selection of charcuterie and young Manchego cheese with Quince. The tapas range from buttermilk fried squid with capers, lemon, sage and smoked aioli, spiced and grilled chicken wings with Romesco, Iberico pork fat chips with chorizo ketchup and piquillo and smoked arancino with fennel aioli. If there is space for dessert try the chargrilled Williams pears with Amaretti, mascarpone, honey and thyme. emberyard.co.uk

AMETSA In London’s Como Hotel, Ametsa’s approach is rooted in the traditions of “New Basque Cuisine” what they call “pairing earthy flavours and technique of the region”. The interior, by Ab Rogers Design, has 7,000 glass receptacles filled with spices coming off the roof – encouraging you to sit down and give in to the food. The menus reflect the seasons but

always surprises with a twist: Parsley meringue with duck, cod truffle, sunflower seed cracker with black pudding as appetizers. Suckling pig on carob crumbs as a main and ending off with clove custard, toasted milk and pineapple ice cream. comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa

IN ASIA

PELHAM’S IN SHANGHAI Situated right on the famed Bund, the Waldorf Astoria Shanghai hosts some of the best dining in Asia’s ever-expanding city. In particular Pelham’s, a French fine dining extraordinaire, with a selection of over 500 fine wines and vintage champagnes. Chef Jean-Philippe Dupas puts “premium, seasonal ingredients in the spotlight”. And it looks something like this: fine cuts of meat and fresh seafood, foie gras terrine cigars, Wagyu beef tartare; asparagus and crawfish as appetizers. Mains include artichoke tortellini, whole Boston lobster, and Wagyu beef tenderloin. Dark chocolate soufflé, crème brulée and Fraisier Georges V are for before calling it a night and heading upstairs. waldorfastoriashanghai.com

Since its opening in 1953, Gaddi’s has been the spot in the city for French fine dining. Perfectly placed within the newly redone (and techsuperb) Peninsula Hotel the dining is perfection, but so are the beds. At Gaddi’s the signature dishes include creamy lobster soup with poached lobster, pigeon breast roasted with Muscovado sugar and end it off with French cheeses and a candied chestnut soufflé with cassis coulis and vanilla ice cream. hongkong.peninsula.com

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GADDI’S IN HONG KONG

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C A F É G R AY I N H O N G K O N G Whether you’re staying downstairs in the ever minimal, beautifully curated rooms of the Upper House or just wanting to come enjoy the quintessential Hong Kong view – Café Gray is where the city of Hong Kong come to meet. A market menu for summer looks like this: crab salad with watermelon, tomato and avocado topped with lemon verbena sorbet, chargrilled pork neck with sweet chili paste, grilled lamb T-bone steak with crushed peas and mint butter and could even finish off with lemon drizzle cake or chamomile bavaroise. cafegrayhk.com

SHERBAGH NEAR JAIPUR Near the Tiger reserve of Ranthambhore is where Sherbagh opened their luxury tents years before. The family-run camp has since 1974 worked on conservation in the area, and continues to do so with their tiger safaris. Here life is simple: early morning rises with game drives into the park followed by eating. And repeat. Menus are created daily and many

PETER IN TOKYO Overlooking Tokyo’s famed Imperial Gardens, the restaurant Peter caters for the lovers of Paris. With chandeliers and fun Paris night scenes reflected on the walls the restaurant brings the French capital to the Japanese capital for some fun. But the food is ever serious with some of the best meat in the city. Start off with crispy turkey, fresh berries, endive and tomato salad with crab cakes and then tuck into the Japanese beef Gifu “Hidagyu” A5 tenderloin or loin, or of course Kobe beef that’s on offer. The cheese platter ends this off on a very, very high note. tokyo. peninsula.com

ingredients come straight off the vegetable gardens on site. An al fresco Thali dinner around the campfire is a highlight with offerings of coconut inspired southern Indian curries or heavy Masala chicken dishes. Before bed a chocolate tart and some sherry at the pool with tiger roars in the background is the perfect way to end a long day. sujanluxury.com

CITY SOCIAL A modern British number from wunderkind Jason Atherton, City Social in Tower 42 off Old Broad Street in London is where the only thing that could distract you from the food is the view across East London. In dark Gatsby-deco the shimmer comes off golden wine bottles and polished surfaces – ready to dazzle. The a la carte Menu includes: violet artichoke and black truffle, chervil root, sweet cicely, cashew and celeriac juice to start, with Cornish sea bass, deep fried oyster, cucumber, cauliflower and oyster velouté as a main. Finish off with Christmas pudding ice cream and some fresh mint tea. citysociallondon.com

We interviewed Dan Sabo, from ACE DTLA on what’s hot on the libation menus:

at the time. The future of what we do is in finding the happy place where service and quality, tender and guest, all exist contently together.

What are people guzzling right now?

What are the ingredients that make up drinks for this upcoming season?

The current trends seem to be, in no particular order: tiki drinks, large format service like punch, and a move toward some lesserknown spirits as a cocktail base. My favorite is the tiki resurgence. It’s been lurking for a while, but now it’s gone full-blown. With tiki, you bring back a bit of fun and levity, which is really welcome at this point. Things aren’t quite so precious with tiki drinks, and although there are a lot of ingredients in small measure, you’re dealing with big, bold flavors, along with fun glassware and a super fun vibe. It’s really hard for a tender to be snarky when he or she is serving someone a flaming over-proof coconut drink in a mug that looks like an Easter Island head.

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Have we seen enough retrospective, bootlegging hooch and when will that change?

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I think so. The industry seems to be looking forward, finding ways to take what we’ve learned over the last few years, and create something new while still paying homage to the past. Bars are steeped in history, and being a part of that lineage is a wonderful part of tending bar, but at this point I think we’ve exhausted all the variations possible on the Last Word, if that makes sense. I think we’re becoming less focused on optics, and more interested in our ability to serve more efficiently. At the Ace Hotel DTLA, we utilize a draft system, we have large format drinks, a frozen drink machine, and we prebatch stable cocktail ingredients. These are all concepts that a few years ago a lot of us (including myself) would probably have scoffed at because they didn’t fit into what was happening

There seems to be an uptick in lesser-known (to the American audience) base ingredients: pisco, cachaça, aquavit. I hope we’ll see more of those on drink menus instead of just the usual big four. Again, the surge in tiki drinks brings in some fun stuff: all spice, orgeat, and falernum. Also, savory seems to be popping up a lot, and I think tenders are playing a lot with the idea of vegetables as a mixer, which is, of course, facilitated by the cold pressed juice movement. So I think we’ll be seeing lots of interesting combinations this winter, like gin and celery, black pepper with citrus, brandy and beets, etc., and maybe dodge the winter bullet of “brown and stirred menus”.

Why be a bar man, what’s the ultimate perk? So many perks! On a local level, you get to interact with people every day in new and interesting ways. Every day is a little different, and it always keeps you on your toes. You’re certainly never bored. The people I’ve met in the industry are all kindred spirits as well, and the idea of competition is disappearing. Recipes are shared, along with techniques and ideas, and it’s become this really great community. There’s also the feeling of taking good care of people that can’t be beat. The goal is that every person leaves our bar a little bit happier than they were when they arrived. And to accomplish that goal is really fulfilling. You create relationships with your guests that are more than just a business relationship, and that’s something that’s pretty unique. And, on a much grander scale, there’s great events, the opportunity to see the world, and, of course, a ton of booze.

A v a i l a b l e a t L A C O S T E b o u t i q u e s | w w w. s u r t e e g r o u p . c o m | 0 1 1 8 8 4 1 4 2 5

T R AV E L DANIEL SCHEFFLER

A LITTLE LOS ANGELES – T H E N E X T G R E AT C I T Y O F T H E W O R L D

A LITTLE LOS ANGELES

The city of angels is changing, again. It’s eastern rival New York may never sleep but what Los Angeles has that no other city in the world has is real luxury – endless amounts of space and on top of that a lifestyle factor that simply cannot be replicated anywhere else. No wonder the artists, designers, actors and fashion knights have (and are still) moved out west to pillage the sun and find a moment for themselves and others very much under the proverbial sun. Kelly Wearstler, design goddess of the west coast, told me that one of her favourite things about the city is that it just isn’t entrenched in any one tradition. And that’s exactly the appeal. Wearstler is of course is the designer of the Viceroy hotels that brought Hollywood Regency back from the 30s and into current day – The Avalon in Beverly Hills complete with kidney shaped pool embodying all that ultra coolness. “L.A. embraces change and has an affinity for risk takers. The old is respected while the new is welcome,” she says. “The city embodies a lifestyle that is youthful, stylish and sophisticated. The vibe is soulful, laid back cool”. And that’s exactly what the world is coming here for: some of the new world freedom of being able to unbutton the confides of Europe and escape the too-fast-expansiveness of Asia. As much as L.A. is always evolving, always offering the world something new one of the most exciting developments has been spearheaded by the Ace hotel and that’s all happening downtown (DTLA) – complete with a website garnishing support at www.bringingbackbroadway.com. And so in early 2014 the historic United Artists building in Downtown LA was taken over (after a serious and meticulous renovation) by hipster-friendly Ace Hotel. Built in 1927 the theatre and its tower stand as “monuments to a group of seminal American artists pushing out on their own” – pretty much perfectly in line with the great Ace brand that bowled New York over. Ace DTLA partnered with Commune Design to transform the lush design, - complete with the charming and surprising Spanish Gothic style - into a hotel perfect for a contemporary world filled with nomads

seeking shelter but also a place to plug in – and then of course plug out when the day’s work is over. The hotel in order words is “so L.A.” and has guest rooms inspired by Rudolph Schindler’s residence in West Hollywood with a great deal of attention placed on efficiency – “there’s a place for everything, and an outlet near at hand no matter where you are”. There is also a rooftop lounge inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s Ennis House and the legendary Hollywood night spot Les Deux Café and pool inspired by Donald Judd’s pool in Marfa – a perfect spot to look out to the hills and admire the new developments happening in front of your eyes right below. And for feasting Ace Hotel partnered with Restaurateur Jud Mongell for “L.A. Chapter” with that ‘so-now-so L.A.-appropriate’ locally sourced home-style menus. But downstairs is one of the most thrilling L.A. things about the hotel – a Moon Juice booth that serves every super food snack or glug you could imagine. The Moon Juice founder, Amanda Chantal Bacon, believes that “food is equal part art and medicine; as much about pleasure as healing” and somehow this is what exemplifies L.A. brand new attitude. The city plays but uses moment to moment to heal its wounds. The area around the hotel forms part of what they call the “Broadway Renaissance” where the city’s creative spirit has come to develop their love and passion. According to the Ace Hotel, United Artists’ founders arrived nearly a century ago and this time around the “change started small with tenants moving into creative lofts and offices, party-goers found their way to underground events, and diners in search of the next thing found it at restaurants like Alma, Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa and Winston, or at the newly-renovated Grand Central Market”. Then there is of course the Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles (MOCA) that pump out world-class exhibits with the Broad Museum joining the hood soon. But besides for all the developments the lifestyle here is what is so interesting – for a city that never walks, suddenly downtowners have put on their sneakers and now walk to dinner, their

A LITTLE LOS ANGELES

ACE DTLA HAS THE PERFECT GIFTS FOR THE NEW YEAR: • • • • • • • • • • •

Atelier de Troupe Desk Lamp Rudy’s Barbershop Shampoo, Conditioner and Bodywash Ace Hotel x SuiteSleep Mattress Accessory Bags Pearl+ Detox Soaps Ace Hotel x Revo Heritage Internet Radio Ace Hotel x Rega RP1 Turntable Ace Hotel x wings+horns Robe Ace DTLA x Atelier de Troupe Lamp Rudy’s Barbershop x Davines Suite Sleep x Ace Hotel Mattress

Atelier Ace’s first art edition series, Ace Issue.

How to get there Cathay Pacific flies from Johannesburg to Los Angeles every day via Hong Kong. Where to stay, besides for DTLA: For something more classic: Four Seasons Beverly Wilshire is where the movie Pretty Women all took place. Worth spending a few nights and then doing Rodeo drive in a Julia Roberts kind of way. http://www. fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire/ For pared back casual glam: The Viceroy Avalon has poolside yoga in the mornings and fantastic dining at Oliverio - a perfect retreat in the heart of LA. http://www.viceroyhotelgroup.com/en/avalon

For a West Hollywood hideout: Besides for the secret cabana style rooms, the restaurant, Cavatina (in the Sunset Marquis Hotel in WeHo) has the perfect combination of discretion and over the top amazingness. Try the Cauliflower Panna Cotta with Lobster and Caviar and a skinny-dip in the pool. http://www. sunsetmarquis.com

Peter Sutherland is an internationally acclaimed, NYC-based artist mixing photography, collage, painting and sculpture into a distinctively new kind of visual language, one that captures the fleeting moods of now, nostalgia and memory.

About Anthony Gerace Anthony Gerace is a multidisciplinary creative currently based in London, working in photography, collage, and graphic design. Gerace created largescale collages for Ace London’s guest rooms last fall.

TRAVE L

But this isn’t New York – this is Los Angeles. Here it’s sunshine, beautiful traffic and endless space – just the way Angelinos like it.

About Peter Sutherland

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yoga classes, art galleries, or even the supermarket with a little of New York smudging off.

Available exclusively through Ace’s online shop, these art prints will be released periodically in editions of 100, each one signed and numbered by the artist. Every artist included in this series is uniquely linked to one of the cities where Ace Hotel lives. Curated in the spirit of carving a space for the artists we admire, this initiative hopes to incite new conversations about art and practice. The series launches with Peter Sutherland, an internationally acclaimed, NYCbased artist mixing photography, collage, painting and sculpture into a distinctively new kind of visual language, one that captures the fleeting moods of now, nostalgia and memory.

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OUT OF TOWN Sometimes what you need to do is find your way at a distance from the bright lights. The heave and arrest of life in the city thrills with energy and a sense of doing, but the idea of pursuing and taking needs to balance with something much more rare â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a celebration of nothingness, of stillness, of peace. Located across the globe there are some resorts and hotels that honour and observe this effusion. Places where time, space and freedom are the commandments of the day. Blessed are these who see its value and gentle reach for its offering.

OUT OF TOWN

LIME WOOD, ENGLAND A M A N K O R A , B H U TA N Quietly placed in the central and western valleys, this rare circuit of 5 graceful lodges revealing 24 suites serves as a pilgrimage within the Kingdom of Bhutan. An intimate, unobtrusive experience that realizes the pinnacle in the discovery of unharmed nature. amanresorts.com/amankora/home.aspx

As part of the foodie revival of the UK, Lime Wood offers fresh country fare in a rustic, yet lux, farm setting. A short drive out of London, this new lodge brings a relaxed atmosphere to Hampshire and peels away the stuffiness of the city with playfulness, great dining (including raw, cured with a smoke house on the grounds) and a degree of ease. The new forest lodges come with log fires and enough space for yoga of course. limewoodhotel.co.uk/home/

H O A N I B S K E L E T O N C O A S T C A M P, N A M I B I A Stark lunar landscapes and forever skies on this iconic coast is where this camp with seven twin-bedded luxury tents (plus a family unit) is situated. Accessed only by light aircraft the camp is a celebration of the

point where meditation meets beauty. wilderness-safaris.com/camps/ hoanib-skeleton-coast

AMANSARA, CAMBODIA D U N T O N R I V E R C A M P, U S

OU T OF TOWN

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Set on the Dolores River in Colorado, this river camp comprises of eight luxurious tents and a main farmhouse style lodge in an elegant pared down aesthetic. With access to horseback riding, fly fishing and hiking the latest edition to the Ranch is the outdoor fantasy, complete. duntonhotsprings.com/cabins/dunton-river-camp.html

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In the land of temples and spirituality it is no wonder that the Aman has built a sanctuary out of respect. This 24-suite lodge, close to the Angkor Wat temple, has captured the spirit of the little city of Seam Reap and remained courteous in its elegant design. With healing wellness at the spa, bright smiles from everyone the resort is where the apsara (the heavenly nymphs of ancient Hindu mythology) come to retreat. amanresorts.com/amansara/home.aspx

GOTHICS LODGE, CANADA Redone, very recently, this uber chilled mountain lodge is where the snow junkies come for unchartered snow and inaccessible slopes. Far from the hustle of the cities in Canada, Gothics prides itself in

private helicopters, communal family style dining and the best heli snowboarding you could find. canadianmountainholidays.com

I N K AT E R R A , P E R U The way to experience the majestic country of Peru is through Inkaterra â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a luxury, but low-key series of hotels across the land that conserves the environment but doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lack on everything splendid. In the south it is Reserva Amazonica (inkaterra.com/inkaterra/reserva-amazonica/) just a boat ride away from the small village of Tambopata and takes guests on nature walks and night boat safaris to see the wild. The cottages, all ecofriendly, overlook the great Madre de dios River and allows for lights out quiet time. In Cuzco, one of the highest points in the country, the finest

hotel La Casona (inkaterra.com/inkaterra/la-casona/) is where seekers of an ancient world come to retreat away from the lamas and village life. Here big beds and fine dining await guests in the small Spanish styled hotel. And then on route to the famed Machu Picchu is the Pueblo Hotel (inkaterra.com/inkaterra/inkaterra-machu-picchu-pueblo-hotel/) in the tiny hamlet below the life changing trek. Located on the beautiful river it is the perfect place to meditate before and after seeing one of the most ancient structures in the world. inkaterra.com

S U J A N J AWA I L E O P A R D C A M P, I N D I A Far from civilization is where the latest luxury camp from Sujan has found its home, in the west of India in Rajasthan. It is the ultimate privilege of access to a nature reserve combined with the most luxurious service and design that ultimate enthralls with privacy that the camp

gets perfectly right. Just eight tents surrounded by riverbeds and endless stars, the camp brings luxury and conservation into an unmarred romance. sujanluxury.com/jawaileopard-camp/index.html

GURNEYS, US At the end of Long Island is where this four-season resort brings the waves and crash of ocean closer and closer. The seawater spa, cottages on the sand and views across the ocean is where lovers of tranquility

come, leaving the fever of New York behind, even for a few days. gurneysinn.com

GREENBRIER, US OU T OF TOWN

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A M A N TA K A , L A O S

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This Dorothy Draper designed Presidential classic is where the cognoscenti come to release their city demise. The hotel, with suites with up to seven rooms, invites guests to â&#x20AC;&#x153;take to the watersâ&#x20AC;? and find relaxation all around. The spa has attracted seekers of white sulfur mineral water since 1778 and continues to pamper guests in the same palatial way. greenbrier.com

Elephant riding into the ancient country of Laos is just the way to see this incredible landlocked kingdom, and the Amantaka captures this magical spirit with its contemplative motif and ethos. Buddha is said to have lived in these parts of Laos and the peaceful nature of this French colonial lodge is evident as you stroll under trees and watch the monks strut by. amanresorts.com/amantaka/home.aspx

JOHANNESBURG

| www.getcariedaway.co.za

011 477 8008

S P A M E AWAY

SPA

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From pamper to wellness, the whole industry is shifting By Daniel Scheffler

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The realm of spa is changing. For too long it has been purely superficial: massages that tinker but not tailor, products that are overly expensive yet refined in the wrong way and so the list continues. With the wellness industry booming (according to Euromonitor - a trillion dollar industry by 2017) the shift towards something more than just conventional spa was just waiting to happen. Murli Rao, General Manager of Sanchaya Resort in Indonesia believes “destress is the need of the day and that re-calibration is another term that we would use. Consumers want to take a break from their stressful lives, and experience authenticity in terms of the oils, and techniques: Tai chi, are more in demand than ever. At the same time, more emphasis is placed on the consistent delivery of the spa experience, in terms of the techniques, and the overall spa experience to include a calming and peaceful ambience, uncluttered and soothing; almost spiritual in terms of the peace”. At the new island resort Sanchaya, the offering is uncomplicated and as Rao says “the spa experience does not start with the stress of deciding the treatment”. They have a back to basics approach for guests with a focus on essentials of feeling good and relaxed and more in tune with their body and so they can embark on a journey of rediscovering what has been ignored or lost. “The Millennial generations view spa visits almost as a necessity, as opposed to the silver market, who viewed it more as an indulgence; and like the trappings of technology, Rao explains. “The travel industry as a whole is moving more into focusing on overall wellness, especially with energy, dietary trends and spiritual elements” says Kim Kessler, Director of Public Relations at the Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. At the hotel the importance of bringing on a gifted Biomeditation energy healer Jeannette von Johnsbach, introducing healthy menu items (including a customized juice menu, LA’s only crudo bar, gluten-free and vegan options throughout) was evident in the Los Angeles clientele’s needs. “The offering throughout the hotel is a long term important initiative,” Kessler explains and they now also offer more than 200 workout videos by celebrity trainers Blue Clay Fitness through our in room iPads and five videos by celebrity nutritionist Kimberly Snyder. Deirdre Bradford, Director of Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles

at Beverly Hills agrees, “our spa has always been focused on relaxation and rejuvenation and we will look in the next few years to introduce more specialized modalities on the menu for a deeper experience”. And with this seismic (but slow) shift customization is becoming more important, beyond using the word “bespoke” the need for a true individualized well assessed wellness experience is absolutely evident. According to Megan Eakins, a Senior Brand Manager at Andaz, hotels guests are after a hotel stay that reflects their personal style and that equally applies to their spa experiences. “We see that guests aren’t just interested in a massage or facial, rather they are looking for a true, local,

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stress levels, control weaknesses, to know more about themselves and reconnect with their inner self ”. Parrilla explains, “guests come for a physical need, which is “I want to lose weight” - for example - and moreover, the mental aspect is to say and recognize gaps and needs on a personal level through awareness. The third step is to maintain it in the long term”. Where the trend may have been that people come to slim down and then leave, now people learn how to apply these techniques and habits in their personal life: hopefully to achieve spiritual, mental and physical stability over time. The notion of wellness is seemingly global: from Europe, particularly in the US and evident in the place where wellness originated perhaps, Asia. Jazreel Low, CEO at Asmara Lifestyle that runs Spa Artisan inside Singapore’s Fullerton Hotel, sees it as follows: “The wellness industry in Singapore has evolved so much throughout the years, it is now considered more of a primary concern as compared to previous years when it took a backseat to other needs”. Low explains that the clientele are looking beyond just a service, but rather for a “total spa experience” that she describes as “a much needed escape from their daily routine and some ‘me time’ to take a pause from their busy schedule and rejuvenate themselves”. The very notion of achieving all three factors (spiritual, mental and physical) is what we know to be the full wellness experience. Sara Putto Caussono, Rooms Division and Spa Manager at Castiglion Del Bosco in Tuscany agrees, “the wellness world follows nothing else but the evolution of what we strongly require to our lives in our era. We are more and more understanding that no money can buy time, so the only thing we can do is investing in having the best time possible, translating this in the word ‘Experience’. Experience is what leaves a track inside, a track that stays forever. We look for something authentic and unique in every situation we find ourselves in”. Putto Casussono believes this is why the wellness industry is expanding and developing as a link between body and soul and goes beyond just the five senses.

and personalized spa experience,” says Eakins. “That’s why we aim to provide treatments that reflect the local culture, whether that be using local ingredients to make a body scrub or incorporating locally-relevant philosophies and traditions into those treatments”. Once customization has taken place, the next step towards wellness is a holistic approach that goes way beyond just physical needs. According to Erika Parrilla, Clinic Operations Manager at SHA Wellness Clinic in Spain, most people come to SHA because of a need to improve some aspect of physical health but adds that, “there is a new trend, which is people who come to reach some spiritual and mental strength, everything that has to do with confidence and control

Spa junkies have wizened up and more than ever have an interest in exactly what makes up the entire spa experience. Ana Silva, the Spa Director at Rosewood London, believes that about sixty percent of what is applied to the skin enters the blood stream, and increasingly people understand the need to make skincare choices that support their internal health. “For this reason, Sense Spa at Rosewood London has partnered with Sodashi who are pioneers in clean beauty. Sodashi products and spa treatments are unparalleled in performance and purity, employing only therapeutic-grade, ethically-sourced essential oils and plant actives to effectively heal and nurture,” says Silva. Putto Casussono adds, “The contact with the elements the products are made with is as important as exchanging energies with the therapist – and becoming more important”.

OGRAP

H Y

TRISTAN HOLMES

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I live in Johannesburg and whilst I have travelled quite a bit and lived in several other cites I always seem to find my way back here. Photography is a new discovery for me, something that I have always been interested in but only pursued with focus on this last trip to the States. I love faces. Big ones, small ones, frowning ones, smiling ones. There is something about face when caught in the right moment that says a lot not only about a person, but about the place they live in. I enjoy finding faces in moments of introspection. That vulnerable moment where people seem to have forgotten where they are and have gotten lost in thought. In these moments, their true selves seem to brim to the surface for a brief second and this is something so exciting to me, its very moving. I enjoy faces that carry with them a sense of a life lived. This is way older people are so attractive to me. History seems etched in

their crevices and wrinkles on their faces and it seems that the more we accumulate experience, the more our faces ring with a quiet dignity. A sense of overcoming. I also find this very moving. Seeing people put on a brave face, or an honest face in spite of lifeÂšs hardships, disappointments, losses is something I am obsessed by. I am a filmmaker by trade focusing mainly on commercials. I work at StarFilms/Creative Content (starfilms.tv). I love my job, (if you can even call it that) but sometimes it takes a lot to get something to screen. Photography for me has been a liberating discovery thus far, allowing me to make without the hassle of a giant engine. It has been a surprising, unexpected step into the intimacies, complexities and vulnerabilities that colour our collective humanity. And that is a tremendous gift. I love it.â&#x20AC;?

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