ENGLISH
TRANSMANCHE England / La France / Belgium / Nederland
spring 2015
CLOSETOHOME
EDI TOR IAL
WELCOME TO EDITION ONE We aim to seduce you, cajole you, inform and excite you. And I confess. We aim to do it on your iphone, tablet and laptop. Furthermore, I feel no shame whatsoever telling you that we aim to do this four times a year.
And why are we doing it? To bring to your attention – through the medium of stunning photography, imagery and words – the local distinctiveness of the area that borders both sides of the Channel. Please, don’t switch off. This isn’t just another Lifestyle/ Tourism/ What’s On read.
This is a doorway to your own doorstep, a portal to the unusual, the original and relatively unknown that lies so close to home, whether on the same side of the Channel as you or across the water on the other side - but still close. Every edition of Transmanche Magazine is about the area: its people, food and its producers, heritage, where to stay (where not to stay) and, naturally, its culture. And by the end of the magazine we hope you feel excited, intrigued and motivated to find out for yourself what lies ‘on the other side’ or just down the road.
Jane Murrell / Editor
CONTENTS
Credits: Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui ofďŹ cia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Publisher: Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.
Culture: PG Wodehouse and La Cote d’Opale. Travel: Weekends in Bruge. Review: Gary Rhodes new restaurant. Travel: Discovering Canterbury. Review: Seasonal wines. Travel: Cycling to Brussels. Sign up: Spread the word.
CLOSE TO HOME FRANCE. ENGLAND. BELGIUM. NETHERLANDS.
The Transmanche Magazine area
P.G.WOD EHOUSE AND LA COTE D’OPALE
CULTURE
Since 1934, Wodehouse and his wife Ethel had been living in Le Touquet on the north coast of France. He was a rich man of 58 years old, leading a very sheltered life. When the Germans invaded France in May 1940, the Wodehouses' followed the British advise and stayed put in Le Touquet. However, like a lot of other people they were taken by surprise with the speed of the German invasion of France. Words John Smith Images Paul Jones
On 22 May 1940, Le Touquet was occupied by the German invasion forces. The Wodehouses', together with other British residents, were ordered to report to the German Authorities in Paris-Plage. Wodehouse continued working on his book "Money in the Bank", until 27 July 1940 when he was informed that he and other British residents of military age were being taken into custody. Wodehouse was first held in Lille, then moved via Liège and Huy in Belgium before arriving at Tost in Upper Silesia. Although he was an internationally renowned author, Wodehouse was treated no differently to the other inmates. He shared the same food, quarters and performed his share of the various jobs. Despite the shattering of his isolated existance, he was in a far more secure position than his other inmates. He was very wealthy through his written works, and he had a large following of fans in the still neutral USA. He also received many letters from his admirers in the USA. In 1941, the Germans allowed Wodehouse to write an article for the "Saturday Evening Post" titled "My War with Germany". This produced even more letters to be sent to Wodehouse. Also Wodehouse was cheered by the knowledge that when he reached 60 years old in 1941, he would be released as he was deemed to be passed military age; a policy that the Germans later scrapped in 1942.
In May 1941, a German Officer enquired whether Wodehouse would like to make a radio broadcast to the USA, and thank his many friends in the USA for all the letters he had received. Wodehouse was concerned that his friends would think it rude of him for not replying (as Wodehouse was only allowed to communicate with immediate family members), so Wodehouse rather foolishly accepted.From Calais by car, it took just minutes to reach the meandering coastal route that carried us past green fields, along picturesque switchback roads and cliff-top vantage points from which Dover is visible on a clear day. Seeing the white cliffs across a mere 21 miles of water really does remind you how close we are to our neighbours.
The popular resort of Le Touquet evolved from an isolated moor, inhabited only by wild animals, into one of the most chic of the northern seaside resorts which reached its peak in the 1920s.
Wodehouse made a total of 6 radio broadcasts from Berlin. The first was an interview conducted by Harry Flannery, a CBS employee based in Berlin. Flannery, who held strong anti-Nazi views, found Wodehouse to be either a dupe or a collaborator. The 6 radio broadcasts seemed to have been describing Wodehouse's own experiences in typical Wodehouse style. Wodehouse was surprised that his radio broadcasts, which he had intended to be well intended, had been viewed as propaganda broadcasts, and that he had been branded as a traitor. He decided that he would do no further broadcasts for the Germans. In September 1943, the Wodehouses' were moved to the Hotel Bristol in Paris, where they remained until Paris was liberated in August 1944.
Following a detailed MI5 investigation after the end of World War Two, it was felt that Wodehouse had acted very naively and foolishly, but no further action was taken. In 1955 he became an American citizen, and in the 1975 New Year's Honours List, he was knighted shortly before his death.
Todays visitors
The Côte d'Opale is studded with history and the first good chance to stretch your sea legs comes as the D940 carries you to Cap Blanc Nez, in about 20 minutes. Our children scrambled up to the breezy hilltop obelisk commemorating the Dover Patrol that kept the Channel free from U-boats during the First World War, while we peered through binoculars towards Blighty.
Fifteen minutes farther south, we drove into Wissant, conspicuous for its enormous sand-duned beach between the capes from which – the guidebooks tell us – Julius Caesar sailed in 55BC to conquer Britain. Now it's better known as a surfer's beach and on the day we chose, the conditions were perfect; scores of hardy souls were doing battle with the surf. If we had beaches like this in Britain, they'd be packed, but here, there's room for everyone.
Look at that map again and you'll see how our next stop – Cap Gris Nez – got its name. It's where France pokes its chalky off-white nose towards Dover and, as impressive remains of mighty bunkers that you can scramble over to this day testify, it's where the Germans sighted their guns on Britain during the Second World War. It's been renovated recently and its story is explained in engaging story boards in French and English. Windblown, isolated and perched high above the choppy waves bathed in the iridescent light which gave the Opal Coast its name, the headland was an exhilarating place to watch vessels ply the English Channel. But it's the beaches that most will seek out and we found our favourites another 15-minute hop south. Audresselles has fabulous, teeming rock pools, where local children were busy catching small green crabs, and – for lovers of fruits de mer –
the Le Retour des Flobards restaurant. If it's full (we mistimed it), there's no shortage of other restaurants around the market square and we still enjoyed our moules et frites and glass of wine. Unsophisticated, but satisfying.
After lunch we admired the vast beach at picturesque Ambleteuse, partly rocky, partly covered by dunes and distinguished by the austere 17th-century Fort Vauban on the sands. Our 10-year-old twins were in heaven and even the bracing wind – a price you sometimes pay on this exposed coast – didn't put them off and friendly lifeguards wandered up to chat as the children splashed in the waves. Family beach paradise. As we neared Boulogne, the winding D940 carried us into traditional, turn-of-the-century Wimereux, a slightly faded but elegant seaside resort with hotels, bars, cafés and restaurants, and an alternately sandy and rocky shore. Here, the sport of the day was windsurfing and we enjoyed the show while strolling along the cliffs.
We rounded off our trip at Boulogne, home to 1,000 shops, 200 restaurants, five traditional French markets a week, a historic town centre and, of course, the jewel in its crown, Nausicaa. Missing this world-class aquarium on a visit to the Côte d'Opale would be to miss the highlight of the region. "A close encounter with the sea" is how it styles itself and it's an apt description. Stressing its eco and educational credentials, the aquarium is entertaining, with wide-ranging and engaging exhibitions, as well as a stunning Coral Lagoon, home to 3,500 different animals. Most impressive of all are Nausicaa's living reef, its sea-lion pool and tropical lagoon, complete with vast sharks.
The beaches will never be as fashionable as those of the Côte d'Azur or enjoy the heat or cachet of the south of France. But on the Cap d'Opale there will always be space to lay out your towel and another restaurant or walk to discover. There's also fabulous swimming and breathtaking coastal views – and all within 20 minutes of Passport Control.
CLICK HERE FOR MAP OF LA COTE D’OPALE
Le Touquet became one of the smartest resorts in the then modern world. The crème of British High Society were regular visitors and the resort gained a reputation for being fashionable with the wealthy and powerful.
Pelham Grenville Wodehouse
P.G. Wodehouse was born in Guilford, England, in 1881. He was educated at Dulwich College. From 1903 to 1909 he edited the humorous "By the Way" column for the London Globe. His reputation as a humorous novelist was established with Psmith in the City (1910). He maintained his enormous popularity with nearly 100 novels depicting amusing characters in absurd and involved situations. Among them are Very Good Jeeves (1930), The Butler Did It (1957), and Bachelors Anonymous (1974). Perhaps best known of his ďŹ ctional creations are the hapless young gentleman Bertie Wooster and his efďŹ cient butler, Jeeves.
Le Touquet
The popular resort of Le Touquet evolved from an isolated moor, inhabited only by wild animals, into one of the most chic of the northern seaside resorts which reached its peak in the 1920s. In 1819, the state put up for sale 1,600 hectares of land. It was bought in 1837 by two Frenchmen, Alphonse Daloz and Alyon, who tried to make it profitable, initially with a distillery and a potato industry. After many attempts, Alphonse Daloz planted a pine forest in 1855 and in 1852, two lighthouses arrived, providing employment for six families of lighthouse keepers. This was the beginning of Le Touquet Paris-Plage. It was in 1874, however, that it occurred to Villemessant who owned the newspaper ‘Le Figaro’, that this could be the perfect situation for a seaside resort and the first villas were built in 1882. In the early days, however, Le Touquet was virtually deserted in the winter and it was only when John Whitley and Allen Stoneham decided to base the resort on sports, that Le Touquet finally grew up.
Leisure
In 1912 on 28th March Le Touquet became an independent town with the name Le Touquet Paris-Plage. Shortly afterwards, the First World War halted its development temporarily and the smart hotels became hospitals for a while. However, in the heady atmosphere of post war society, Le Touquet became one of the smartest resorts in the then modern world. The crème of British High Society were regular visitors and the resort gained a reputation for being fashionable with the wealthy and powerful, including potentates from as far away as the Orient and the East Indies. By 1927, the Casino was foremost of its kind in France. As a result of the town’s new-found prosperity, the Town hall was built with the proceeds of one year’s winnings. Villas and Hotels sprung up as well as a covered market, the International Airport, a racecourse and golf course. Many of these early 20th century villas are now listed, as indeed is the town hall, the covered market and the stands at the racecourse.
Since the mid-1990s, Le Touquet’s villas have become extremely fashionable amongst architecture lovers throughout Europe, rediscovering the “folie” of seaside architecture of both the Roaring Twenties and the 1930s.
Le Touquet Tourist OfďŹ ce, Palais de L'Europe, 62520. Tel 0033 (0)3 21 06 72 00 / Fax 0033 (0)3 21 06 72 19. www.letouquet.com
History
With the advent of the Second World War, the gaiety of Le Touquet evaporated and it gained new notoriety as the most mined town in France during the war (130,000 mines). After the war, a small port was created and the Le Touquet took up its position as a year round resort and premier seaside destination of the Cote d’Opale – a position it has retained to this day. This is a resort which offers sand yachting, sailing, riding, 3 golf courses, a thalassotherapy spa, the Aqualud water park and much else besides. Within very easy reach of the Channel Ports and the Channel Tunnel terminal, Le Touquet is also much frequented by Parisians and other Europeans. Its ‘year round ‘ appeal has encouraged stylish boutiques, luxurious hotels and a good choice of restaurants and bars as well as discotheques, night clubs and, of course, the Casino.
The Palais de l’Europe and the Tourist Office are at the entrance to the town and are built on the site of the castle which belonged to the notary, Daloz, who originally purchased the land on which the town is built in 1837. The racecourse is listed by Monuments Historiques, with one façade facing the gardens, the other facing the courses. Designed in the English Norman style, the architects were Paul Furiet and Georges Henry Pingusson. A Museum is housed in a typical villa in the forest, once the home of a doctor. The displays include many paintings from the 19th century to the present day, The area drew many artists in the late 19th and early 20th century, attracted by the exceptional light of the coast in this area. There are also fascinating photographs taken by Edouard Champion, a Parisian art editor, between 1880 and 1938. The main attraction is that these photos are signed by many of his famous subjects, including presidents, sportsmen, writers and other famous celebrities of that golden era. The heady days of the early 20th Century may be over, but Le Touquet has retained its reputation for ‘chic’. For good wine, visit Le Chais, 71 rue de Londres, tel 03 21 05 59 83.
TRAVEL
CLICK HERE FOR MAP OF BRUGES
WEEK ENDSIN BRUGES Belgium's loveliest city boasts canals, chocolatiers and medieval charm – all within easy reach for travellers seeking a romantic winter escape. Words John Smith Images Paul Jones
Getting there
From London and the south-east, the easiest way to reach Bruges is by train, via Brussels. Eurostar (08705 186 186; eurostar.com) runs up to 10 trains a day from London St Pancras to Brussels Midi. The Eurostar journey takes around two hours, and a ticket to Brussels (from £59 return) entitles you to connect to any other station in Belgium. Take one of the twice-hourly trains to Bruges, a trip of less than an hour.
Alternatively, fly to Brussels and complete the journey by rail, changing at Brussels Nord station (the return rail ticket costs €25.80). British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) flies from Heathrow; bmi (0870 6070 555.
Stay. This picturesque city of chocolates, cobbles and carillon chimes is poetic at any time of year, but Bruges still has a wintry air of romance, with veils of mist and lights twinkling from cosy cafés – so visit right now for bracing walks and fireside ambience. Spring will soon unfurl, with all the attendant attractions of spring flowers and greenery. Should you need an event to focus on, the Cinema Novo Festival takes place from 12-22 March, showing films from Asia, Africa and Latin America (cinemanovo.be).
Die Swaene Steenhouwersdijk 1, 8000 Brugge, Belgium t. +32 50 34 27 98 BOOK A ROOMOK
Getting your bearings
Bruges lies within a circle of canals and earth banks, the remains of centuries-old fortifications. At its heart are two squares: Markt, the medieval marketplace; and Burg, the ancient seat of government, dominated by the City Hall (1).
Bruges railway station (2) is just outside the south-western edge of the old town. It has a small tourist office, open 10am-5pm daily (weekends to 2pm), and a frequent bus service to Markt, fare €1.
The Hotel Die Swaene is ideally located in the heart of Bruges, which is surrounded by tranquil rivers.
Number 11 Peerdenstraat 11, 8000 Brugge, Belgium t. +32 50 33 06 75 BOOK A ROOM
A network of canals winds through the city, from Minnewater (literally the "Lake of Love"), a canal-lake in the south, to the BruggeDamme waterway lying beyond the fortifications in the north.
Though some cars twist their way around the narrow lanes of the old town, this is a place happily dominated by cyclists and pedestrians, and walking is one of the joys of being here. The main tourist office (3) is west of the city centre in the modern Concertgebouw (Concert Hall) at 't Zand 34 (open daily 10am6pm; 00 32 50 44 46 46; brugge.be/tourism)
The ’Number 11’ is situated in the heart of old Bruges, in a quiet traffic free street, nearby the beautiful canal "Groene Rei".
REVIEW
GARY RHODES W1 Rhodes W1 Brasserie and Bar, located at the front of the Cumberland Hotel, is a stylish venue to meet for a drink or light meal. It's a large space with a funky feel but it's not 'neon-modern'. There's excellent service and cuisine is Modern European with a British twist. Words John Smith Images Paul Jones
Rhodes W1 Great Cumberland Place, London W1H 7DL t. 020 7616 5930 BOOK A TABLE
In November 2009, Gary Rhodes launched a new bar and private dining room at Rhodes W1.
The Rhodes Patrón Bar is his "lighter eating Brasserie" and has been refurbished with a funky, airy look to form the dramatic centerpiece of the Rhodes W1 Brasserie. With its upbeat tempo and seductive ambience the bar is a perfect place to get you in the mood for a great evening out. Before sitting down for dinner, guests could indulge in cocktails such as the signature 'Patrón W1' which includes Patrón Silver, Patrón Citronge Orange Liqueur and Gran Marnier – Cuvee du Centenaire and Pomegranate juice. The house champagne is Lanson and there is also a wide selection of wines. Bottled and draft beers include Grolsch Blonde and Guinness, plus non-alcoholic alternatives too.
The modern European cuisine in the Brasserie includes mains such as '10oz Scotch dry rib eye steak', 'Buttered salmon with chorizo risotto and paella garnish' and 'Half a grilled lobster with a classic Caesar salad', and desserts feature a 'Hot chocolate soufflé' and a 'Sticky toffee pudding'.
Private dining room
The Rhodes W1 Private Dining Room offers menus selected either from the Michelin star fine dining Rhodes W1 or from Rhodes W1 Brasserie. Spotted Dick with custard is a firm favorite. The Rhodes W1 Private Dining Room has an art deco feel and is suitable for up to 40 guests. Highlights from the menu include: 'Beetroot cured salmon gravlax crème fraiche, horseradish and salad of baby beets' for starters, 'Pan fried black bream confit tomato, langoustine, samphire and shellfish bisque' for mains, and finish off with 'Carpaccio of pineapple, coconut sorbet and meringue'.
Gary Rhodes opened his successful Rhodes W1 Brasserie in partnership with Restaurant Associates, Compass Group UK & Ireland's executive dining business, in 2005.
TRAVEL
DISCO VERING CANTER BURY
CLICK HERE FOR MAP OF CANTERBURY
Canterbury's skyline is dominated by the stunning Cathedral, the oldest in England. But the cathedral is only part of the story; the ancient ruins of St Augustine's Abbey and St Martin's Church form Canterbury's UNESCO World Heritage Site while other ancient ruins such as the Castle are reminders of the city's history, heritage and culture. Words John Smith Images Paul Jones
Geoffrey Chaucer is the most famous writer of Medieval England. Geoffrey Chaucer immortalised Medieval England in the ‘Canterbury Tales’ – the stories of various people gravitating to Canterbury Cathedral at the end of a pilgrimage. Geoffrey Chaucer has to go down as one of Britain’s finest writers. A visit to Canterbury is not complete without experiencing Chaucer’s famous tales of medieval misadventures at one of the City’s most loved visitor attractions. www. canterburytales.org.uk
Pilgrims and visitors have made their way to Canterbury Cathedral since the Middle Ages. It remains one of the most visited places in the country.
ZOOM TO VIEW
Although Canterbury is a place steeped in tradition it is also a modern and vibrant city. Luxury hotels, fine restaurants serving food from across the globe, pulsating nightclubs and welcoming pubs combine to give a complete experience. For those who have a yearning for retail, Canterbury's array of shop windows beckon with a kaleidoscope of colours, inviting you to sample what's on offer. Many of the high street names are here as well as a delightful range of independent retailers. The King's Mile has an atmosphere all of its own while the city's St Dunstan's, West Gate Towers and Northgate areas have a range of specialist and individual outlets. Travelling on foot is always a good way to explore the city. Walking trails or guided walks will help you make the most of your time here and to enjoy the winding lanes and streets, all with their own unique identity. Alternatively you may wish to relax and absorb the wonder of the city with a boat trip along the River Stour. You will be able to appreciate Canterbury's finest and historical architecture set against outstanding, scenic views. The crystal clear waters offer a home to ducks, swans, fish and other wildlife while the river banks have an array of bending willow trees and wild flowers.
Whatever a visitor seeks, they will ďŹ nd it in Canterbury. It possesses a quality that is both timeless and inspiring. Creativity and culture combine to ensure that you return again and again.
Dining in Canterbury
Wondering where to eat in Canterbury and surrounding areas? Canterbury, Whitstable and Herne Bay offer a vast range of fantastic eateries. There is something to satisfy all taste buds; whether you want a Michelin star gourmet meal, a romantic meal for two or a meal with a party atmosphere, there is a venue to suit all desires. Or maybe you just want to sit down, relax and watch the world go by in one of our numerous cafĂŠs or tea shops serving home baked food and a cup of English tea. There is also the annual Canterbury Food Festival giving you the chance to try new things and enjoy fresh local produce. Whether you're after cheap eats or an upmarket special occasion restaurant, Canterbury has plenty of decent options for dining out. Elegant Deeson's, for example, serves up modern English food, bang on trend, while the cheap-and-cheerful Shake Shed nearby is a student institution. There are some charming old pubs within the city walls. The Parrot is a slice of living Canterbury history while The Dolphin has a beer garden you won't want to leave in a hurry.
EAT. Deesons 5 Sun Street Canterbury, CT1 3NG t. 01227 755333 BOOK A TABLE
We specialise in traditional and modern British dishes using locally sourced produce.
La Trappiste 1-2 Sun Street Canterbury, CT1 3NG t. 01227 755333 BOOK A TABLE
Check out www.coolplaces.co.uk for more great places to eat out in Canterbury.
This is the place in Canterbury to meet people, come in for a wonderful meal or just Coffee and cakes or a beer.
Punting in Canterbury in the form of guided historic river tours has been a favourite pastime on the River Stour for a number of years.
WHAT’S ON?
What’s on?
Canterbury events 2014 include; theatre, dance, week-long traditional festivals to day carnivals, classic car shows to international food fairs and live music to outdoor theatre, it's all here and awaiting your visit. Take a look through the events in Canterbury to find out what is coming up. April / May / June
STAY. Abode 30-33 High St, Canterbury, CT1 2RX t. 01227 766266 BOOK A ROOM
Accommodation
Wondering where to stay in Canterbury, Whitstable, Herne Bay and the surrounding countryside? There is accommodation in Canterbury and the surrounding areas to suit everyone's taste and budget, ranging from 4* Hotels to Hostels.
There are plenty of Canterbury Hotels, Bed & Breakfast, Canterbury Self Catering holiday cottages and Camping and Caravanning sites.
A number of accommodation featured on the website have either been quality assessed by Visit England or the AA and display a star rating which indicates the general quality of the facilities, furnishings, décor and ambience. Some properties have been quality assessed by independent external evaluators and audit systems or they subscribe to KAS (Kent Accommodation Scheme) or VCS (Visit Canterbury Scheme).
Bode Canterbury is a stylish boutique hotel that has been beautifully designed and refurbished.
Falstaff 8-10 St Dunstans St, Canterbury, CT2 8AF t. 01227 462138 BOOK A ROOM
Those subscribing to KAS or VCS abide by statutory obligations including health, safety, cleanliness and data protection.
Use our secure online booking facility to book your places to stay in Canterbury before you get here and don't forget to check late availability for last minute deals.
The Falstaff Hotel is the perfect base to explore Canterbury Cathedral and its local coast and countryside.
REVIEW
WINES OFTHE SEASON
There is no simple formula for wines being seasonal; instead, it's a question of what wines feel like and how a wine pairs not just with food, but also with the surrounding temperature or weather. Words John Smith Images Paul Jones
Rotherfield wine at Heath Stores Horsmonden, Kent TN12 8HT, t. 01892 722 221
Vinopolis 1 Bank End, SE1, information, t. 0870 241 4040
Perfect Partners 7 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 3HF, t. 01580 712 633
Planet Organic 42 Westbourne Grove London t. 020 7221 7171.
MORE INFORMATION
MORE INFORMATION
Brenchley Wine Company High Street, Brenchley, Kent TN12 7NQ, t. 01892 723094 MORE INFORMATION
MORE INFORMATION
MORE INFORMATION
Ask at any Waitrose, Sainsbury or Safeway store for organic wines – they will often order them for you if not in stock. Aldi has stores in Dover, Hythe, Margate, Ramsgate, Sittingbourne and Swanley.
Will Davenport offers tours for groups of 15 or more including a tasting of the wines. ÂŁ4 per head, allow about 2 hours. Groups must be pre-booked. Limney Farm, Castle Hill, RotherďŹ eld, East Sussex TN6 3RR, United Kingdom, tel: 01892 852 380. (No visits at Horsmonden.)
TRAVEL
CLICK HERE FOR MAP OF BRUSSELS
TOUR BRUSSEL SBYBIKE
I have had quite busy week-ends lately, taken up by work and/or by spending time with family, being on vacation, etc. So no longer rides since the Ronde Cyclo. But since we are doing the TilffBastogne-Tilff with a friend on 12 June, I still have to train. So I go to spinning classes during lunch time, to get some interval work down and keep up my ďŹ tness. And I have been going out for 90 minute rides outside, early in the morning on Sundays.
Words John Smith Images Paul Jones
The problem is that it takes some time to get out to my preferred riding area in Flanders, the Pajottenland, and then back. To get to Ruisbroek to the West of Brussels, it takes me about 20 minutes. So 40 minutes of not so pleasant riding time and just 50 minutes of riding in the country-side. But recently, I have come across the GPS track for a ride to the South-East of Brussels published by the Brussels Big Brackets cycling club, going through the hills of Brabant. I still have not had the time to ride it, but it inspired my shorter rides.
I first start in the Bois de La Cambre. Early in the morning, the park is still waking up and you can just zoom through. You then get to the Drève de Lorraine, with its cycling path going through the woods, straight as an arrow.
On the left goes the Avenue Dubois, still in the forest of Soignes. It is sort-of downhill, but actually feels almost flat. I always feel frustrated: I’m expecting to go super fast, like on a normal descent. But you have to go hard to get to 50 km/h and you sometimes get cars behind you, which I find stressful.
Anyway, once at the end of Dubois, you go across a big crossing. You can either use the cycling bridge and then the gravel road, or go right, up the steep road. Once you get to the petrol station, you turn into a small road on the left and pass underneath the Groenendaal train station. A nice and long descent later, you are in Hoeilaart. You just follow the road and at the end of the lake, you go right, up a nice steep hill.
The temperature has gone up again (around 5-7째C) and we had a beautiful weekend, especially on Sunday. I also had also taken Monday off, and took the opportunity to ride on a second nice day in a row.
From there, I just follow the Waversesteenweg, which becomes more rural as it waves along, with only very few cars.
I usually turn around once I get to Maleizen or even Rixensart. Last week-end, it was particularly frustrating, as I was crossing all the cyclists going to the Route du Muguet, an Audax organised by the Guidons La Hulpois cycling club. The whole route is really nice, and mixes forests, small towns, countryside, all while going up and down. It provides a good work-out.
But I really have to find the time to do the whole of the “Bosses brabançonnes!”
Bike on the train
On Monday, I had taken a day off and decided to go shopping for new pedals. I did not have access to a car, and was forced to rethink my route to Aalst. I decided to combine my two favourite modes of transportation and take my bike on the train.
It is actually quite easy to do so, here in Belgium. You just have to buy a ticket for your bike (on top of your normal train ticket). Of course, this being Belgium, you cannot buy the bike ticket at the machine, but have to wait in line at the counter. It costs 5 euros for a one-way ticket, 8 euros for a return ticket. You have to go to the ticket inspector when the train arrives at the station (they normally get out of the train). I experienced a conscientious flemish lady which locked up my bike in the dedicated compartment and let me stay in the 1st class section next to it (“It’s nicer to be close to the bike”). I also experienced a careless flemish guy who just told me to put it just outside the 1st class compartment, and let me sit on the floor.
You can use this system to go out biking further away from Brussels (or wherever you are in Belgium). This gives you a lot of freedom over using a car: you don’t have to do a loop and if you plan your trip well, you can stop at any train station and get back home. The fietsnet, combined with the website of the national train company (SNCB), should be all you need.
On Monday, my plan was to get to Aalst by train and cycle back to Brussels. In the end, the guy from Van Eyck Sport who sold me the pedals and was supposed to mount them for me was also selling a 7500 euro Look 695 at the same time. Guess who got priority‌ In the end, it took me too much time and I had to rush back to Brussels. So I rode only the 10 km to the Denderleuuw train station, along the Dender river. The weather was perfect and the landscape very nice. I will probably try this again some time, but this time all the way to Brussels!
TRANSMANCHE England / La France / Belgium / Nederland
FOLLOW US www.transmanchemagazine.com facebook.com/transmanchemagazine twitter/transmanchemagazine *Available in English, French and Dutch
TRANSMANCHE England / La France / Belgium / Nederland
SPREAD THEWO RDNOW
We hope you have enjoyed this sping edition of TRANSMANCHE. The only online magazine you you and your continental neighbours! If you would like to contribute to the content or have any suggestions that friends home and abroad may enjoy contact us on the link below. CONTACT US
TRANSMANCHE England / La France / Belgium / Nederland
CLOSETOHOME
Š HuttonDesign.com