Hotel - Napasai Orient Express

J ETSET

Paradise FOUND

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Regional Managing Editor, James McCarthy, on his recent tropical expedition to Thailand’s Koh Samui, discovers that the sound of the sweet-scented breeze blowing through groves and palm leaves of the island is whispering the last word in secluded luxury: “Napasai.”

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ike the jagged teeth of some ancient Kraken rearing its head from the glassy epidermis of the Gulf of Thailand, the rocky buttresses of the Ang Thong National Marine park recede into the distant haze. The late August sun beats down as we scythe effortlessly through the water, onwards to our tropical island getaway at the prow of a luxury power cruiser.

Before the boat is even clear of the bay, we are already walking up to the door of our private beach villa suite, one of the finest accommodations at the beautiful and exclusive Orient Express property, Napasai.

Miles of golden sand speeds past; beaches attached to the myriad opulent resorts offering a sumptuous slice of this tropical paradise. Eventually, in the shadow of a lush tree-lined hill, dotted with picturesque domiciles, the boat finally slows to a halt.

Nestled in several acres of prime real estate along Baan Tai beach on the small island of Koh Samui, Napasai resort and spa blends seamlessly into its unspoiled surroundings, with its rich dark wood construction and communal areas that are open to the elements, it invokes a wonderful Swiss Family Robinson feel. The main building, comprising a reception and bar, a library and the main restaurant, is built on three levels descending a steep hill, joined by timber bridges and staircases.

Like a scene from an Ian Fleming novel, or more precisely, one of the movies derivative of his work, featuring a jet-setting super spy, I alight from the tail of the cruiser, jumping into crystal clear water that reaches my knees. I offer a helping hand to my beautiful companion as she follows suit and we stride toward the sand as the sound of our transportation fades behind us.

A mile-long driveway from the main road and the surrounding natural environment of dense cashew and palm trees, coupled with green open spaces, offer a sense of privacy and adds perfectly to the impression of seclusion. Al the while, a palpable air of relaxation is all-consuming in the fragrant smell of the native flora mingling with the verbena being infused throughout the portals of this unique hotel.

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As the sun slips languidly below the horizon, flaming lamps light up the resort and the coziness of the villa suite embraces us. There is a main room with a dining area and twin "deng"-style sofas and a master bedroom replete with king-sized bed and panoramic views of the beach and the rippling ocean beyond. Attached is a palatial en-suite, fitted with a frankly immense tarazzo bathtub that’s bigger than some private pools.

While it is possible to swim in our bath, we can also float on a cloud of gazillion-thread count cotton in the vast bed; a vessel so comfortable, the effort expended extracting oneself from it at the crack of noon each day is the hardest work a guest is expected to do at the resort.

While our well-appointed billet is nothing short of sumptuous - every surface is covered in either fine marble, polished hardwood or exquisite silks - the hotel’s private pool residences are the last word in luxury, tucked away in a secluded natural setting right at the water’s edge, each one has a fabulous private swimming pool shimmering just outside the generous living quarters, which are all individually-designed with between one and four bedrooms.

Outside our villa, just beyond the front door and set in our private garden, a bamboo massage sala stands sentinel, secluded from prying eyes by tall hedgerows that enclose the villa on three sides and an ideal spot for some in-room pampering.

That, ultimately, is Napasai's raison d'être. The whole property is designed to make you feel pampered. Whether it is simply enjoying the lulling sound of waves lapping against the shore while you lay sunbathing under the shade of tall palm trees on untouched white sand, or sipping coloured drinks by the stunning, expansive infinity pool that looks out over the azure bay.

EXTRACTING ONESELF FROM THE VAST, COMFORTABLE BED EACH DAY IS THE MOST ENERGY A GUEST IS EXPECTED TO EXPEND AT THE RESORT...

NAPASAI'S RAISON D'ÊTRE IS TO MAKE YOU FEEL PAMPERED.

Of course, one of the major draws of a resort like Napasai is its spa.

Napasai is a sanctuary for those seeking to relax and restore body and mind. While my companion and I didn't need much more to relax than the beach and a comfy hammock, the spa offers a wide range of rejuvenating treatments, including many based on, as one would expect in a land famed for its massages, Thai traditional techniques and Oriental philosophies.

The hotel also offers its guests a wide range of complimentary activities, with a different itinerary each day ranging from yoga classes in the fresh tropical breeze on the outdoor deck, to kayaking lessons and even traditional Thai flower art.

We could choose to be as active or torpid as we liked at Napasai. For those of a more energetic persuasion, there is plenty to occupy your time. The resort, thanks to its ample size and location, is able to offer a plethora of sporting activities both in and around its environs, with full-sized, floodlit tennis courts nestled amongst the cashew trees, to golf on a hilltop course offering sensational vistas of the coast and surrounding area.

For water babies like myself, there is kayaking, windsurfing and sailing, allowing adventurous travellers to explore nearby islands and discover their own hidden coves and secluded vacation memories.

That said, the most active my companion and I got outside of the villa was

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to explore the resort's verdant interior; strolling through shaded copses, visiting the on-site farm and enjoying the curiosity of Napasai's resident water buffalo, before retiring to the pool to wallow in the cool water while enjoying some of the wonderful signature cocktails on offer.

As the sun goes down, thoughts turn to dinner, and the Napasai proffers some memorable dining experiences, particularly al-fresco delights in atmospheric, softly-lit settings that make the most of the resort’s seaside location. We enjoyed freshly grilled seafood and meat dishes by the beach under the light of the tiki torches lining the shore. For a more formal experience, the Lai Thai restaurant offers a choice of both traditional and innovative regional dishes, as mild or as daringly spicy as the palette will allow, prepared by the resort's army of traditional Thai chefs or a Mediterranean-style menu, with a focus on seafood caught straight out of the bay, which is lovingly prepared by the restaurant's resident French chef.

Whether we dressed for dinner or enjoyed casual, private dining in one of the beachside salas, the one constant was the produce. Every day, we were told, the chefs meet with local fishermen to select only the freshest and choicest of the day's catch straight from the boat, while herbs and vegetables are sourced either from the resort's fecund landscape itself, or from selected producers on Koh Samui.

As is my experience, though, a unique location alone does not a great hotel make. With many of the truly fine hotels in which I have been fortunate to reside, the luxury - as I have noted on many of these occasions - is in the details. Little things, like remembering a name, a regular order or going out of the way to cater to a guest's whim; a personal touch that makes one feel truly welcome. Napasai provides these qualities in spades. A "good morning, Mr McCarthy," from the pith helmet-clad bus

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boy each time I passed the reception, the spelling out of "welcome to Napasai" and other personalised greetings in exquisite flower buds on the bed, to knowing exactly how I like I my iced coffee in the mornings and predicting my companion's cocktail choice at the pool bar, all make for an experience that feels uniquely tailored to me.

That it is an experience in one of the most peaceful and beautiful places in Asia and I am sharing it with the woman I am hopelessly in love with, just makes it all the more special.

Perhaps, though, the most compelling argument in favour of the resort is that not once during our three days at Napasai has she or I yearned to find excitement or entertainment beyond the tree-lined borders of our island paradise. Sadly, the only time we will have to leave our romantic desert island haven is when our getaway reaches its inevitable denouement, and reality comes to collect its dues.

Thankfully, though, that will not be tonight. As is normal for the island at this time of year, we are to be treated to a natural light show that puts Dubai's or New Year's fireworks to shame. While I don't think the Napasai can take credit for the tempestuous romanticism of this particular attraction, they have anticipated our needs beautifully, nonetheless.

Swaying languorously together in a hammock tethered between two lofty palm trees, a stone's throw from our door and mere feet from the lapping waves, we drink in the sweet-smelling night air as the ink-black South Asian sky is lit up by snapping fingers of superheated static electricity, snaking across the edges of soon-to-be precipitous clouds.

As reality rides towards us on the rainfall of tomorrow, we use the time we have left in the light of flickering torches to craft a few more memories to sustain us until the next time we wash up on the shores of Napasai.

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