Sur la Terre Arabia 33 - Pre-Fall 2014

ARABIA

ICONS OF LUXURY

From Steve McQueen's Tag Heuer to Grace Kelly's Hermès bag, SLT looks at truly timeless elegance

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The 'Icons Of Luxury' Issue a l l f o u r Co l l eC to r ' s e d i t i o n s ava i l a b l e n ow !

Editorial icon:

A person or thing regarded as a representative symbol or as worthy of veneration.

So often in the luxury sector, phrases like “timeless elegance” and “modern classic” are bandied about a lot whenever something new hits the market, and yet, so often such things fail to live up to the hype.

There are exceptions, of course, like the new Ferrari California T, which I drove in Italy last month. The modern California has always suffered comparisons to its iconic 1950s namesake, often unfavourably, but this new iteration, as you will read on page 88, is, in my opinion, a near perfect Grand Tourer.

It did, however, get me thinking about truly iconic luxury brands and products that have stood the test of time; things that remain soughtafter now, or, in some cases, like that of Concorde, long retired, but still casting a Titanic shadow over its industry today.

As such, welcome to Sur la Terre’s “Icons Issue,” where we revel in luxury that truly does offer timeless elegance, like Chanel’s “LBD,” or Diane Von Furstenberg’s “Wrap Dress,” both of which live on, adapting to modern fashion trends but never compromising their signature style.

Equally iconic are lusted-after handbags, such as the Hermès “Kelly,” for which a 12-month waiting list ensures exclusivity, or that Little Blue Box, which holds such promise. For men, of course, there is the ageless dinner jacket, or tuxedo, complemented by a genuine modern classic like Omega’s Speedmaster watch, which, on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin, became the first (and only) watch ever worn on the moon.

Then, there are the iconic people; Sur la Terre International interviews Hollywood leading lady, Charlize Theron, while I enjoy an afternoon in the company of a paragon of British style, the ebullient Jeremy Hackett. Qatari dune-bashing daredevil and quad-biking sensation, Mohamed AbuIssa, also chats to us about his Dakar 2015 challenge, while showing off his new Cartier Calibre Diver watch.

Finally, I would like to say a thank you to someone who I consider to be an icon of luxury journalism, and with whom it has been a pleasure to serve alongside this past five and a half years: Steven Paugh, who, sadly, is leaving the permanent staff here at SLT. Fortunately, though, you will still be able to enjoy his witty wordsmithery within the pages of this venerable organ from time to time, as he’ll continue to bring a global touch of “ridiculux” as a contributing editor.

With that, and no further ado, turn the page and luxuriate in all the classic cool you’ll need to beat the sizzling summer heat.

James McCarthy

regional managing Editor

. sur la terre . editor’s letter .

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CONTENTS

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arabia

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the list

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the scene

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f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly

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rev ue

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st y le con fidenti a l

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gl obe tro t ter

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up close

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jetset

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or igi ns

Art, culture, lifestyle

Were you seen on the scene?

The things you need to own

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi and Ritz-Carlton DIFC

The Seasonal Swing

Your guide to global luxury

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per son a l

Passionate and talented people

Flight of Fancy: the iconic luxury of Concorde

The magic of the Tiffany Little Blue Box

. sur la terre . contents .

CONTENTS

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ac c e s s o r i e s

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fa s h i o n

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i n mo tion

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o u t o f t h e b ox

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tr en ds con fiden ti a l

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look book

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b e au t y

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m a r k e t p l ac e

Modern Classics: icons that stood the test of time

Times change, but style endures

The Ferrari California T

Mohamed AbuIssa and his Cartier Calibre Diver

Future Modern Classics

The best of the season's looks for guys & girls

Amouage unveils its latest fragrance

Products available regionally

. sur la terre . contents .

fotoarabia .com

the list arts and culture

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Mughal and Safavid Album Exhibition

Arsha Kaviani & The World Classical Music Series

Macbeth: The Opera

WHEN: 21 September 2014 - 21 February 2015 WHERE: Museum of Islamic Art, Doha WHAT: Art Exhibition In the late 16th century, the Mughal emperor Humayun was busy travelling around the world, building an army to retake the throne he lost to Pashtun noble, Sher Shah Suri, over a decade prior. Seeking aid from the Safavid Dynasty of Persia - a decision which would see Humayun returned to his former glory - also brought about an equally historic development in art, marking an interchange between the two cultures that began with the development of a Mughal school of painting and has lasted as a fascinating marriage of form since. The Mughal and Safavid Album exhibition at Doha’s Museum of Islamic Art is sure to be a fascinating treatise into the region’s dynamic and evolutionary art history, and will be great for anyone who wants to see the evidence of a real-life Game of Thrones. www.mia.org.qa

WHEN: 16 October WHERE: The One & Only Royal Mirage, Dubai WHAT: Classical Music Concert Officially recognised for his prodigious ability by such international institutions as the Royal College of Music, Dubai-born Iranian prodigy, Arsha Kaviani, is singularly one of the most incredible up-and-coming pianists in the world today. Having started following his passion for playing at the tender age of six, Kaviani has since toured the Middle East and Europe, employing his virtuosity to great effect throughout the entire world, wowing all audiences along the way. Returning to his hometown this October as part of The World Classical Music Series (a joint effort by the Dubai Concert Committee and M Premiere), Kaviani is sure to deliver yet another incredible performance that should not be missed by anyone with true musical taste. www.dcc.ae

WHEN: 18, 20 & 22 September WHERE: Royal Opera House Muscat WHAT: Opera Given its melancholy timbre, nigh-orchestral grandstanding and haunting resonance, it is no surprise, really, that someone would adapt arguably William Shakespeare’s most famous tragedy, Macbeth, into an opera. Produced and first given in 1847 by famed Italian composer, Giuseppe Verdi, this adaptation of the Bard’s gripping play about the caustic nature of power and politics is inarguably the world’s most famous. Told in four acts, the opera has, since its creation, been noted not just for its intriguing translation, but also for its astute musical timing, which complements Shakespeare’s original plot with further tension and grandiose presentation. Brought to Oman’s Royal Opera House by Verdi’s namesake theatre from Trieste, Italy, this performance is set to be an unforgettable one for any fan of music and theatre.  www.rohmuscat.org

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the list ENTERTAINMENT

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10 sep 16 sep

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Bellamy Brothers

Lady Gaga Does the Middle East

David Blaine in Abu Dhabi

WHEN:4 September WHERE: Qatar National Convention Centre WHAT: Country Music Show It’s not often that our little Arabian enclave gets a reprieve from the incessant storm of House “music” that infects every aspect of our lives, but thanks to the globe-wonderin’ good ol’ boys, The Bellamy Brothers, we are finally getting just that! Appearing for the first time ever in the Gulf from their hometown of Nashville, Tennessee, the Bellamys are set to impress with all of their world-famous country hits, like “Let Your Love Flow,” “Lovers Live Longer,” “If I Said You Have a Beautiful Body” and much more! Having sold out arenas around the globe, performed with the likes of The Doobie Brothers and The Beach Boys, and having been several times acclaimed by both the Academy of Country Music (ACM) and the Country Music Association Awards (CMA), the Bellamy Brothers are uncontested crooners of the highest calibre. www.qatarconvention.com

WHEN: 10 September (Dubai), 16 September (Istanbul) WHERE: Istanbul & Dubai WHAT: Pop Concert At this point, the singer/songwriter/pop artist known to the world as Lady Gaga really needs no introduction. Ever since her breakout debut album The Fame hit the shelves in 2008, she was an established household name throughout the known galaxy. Love her or hate her, there simply is no denying how much this one recording artist has affected pop culture, art, fashion and even - it must be said - tolerance. As part of the world tour known as ArtRave: The Artpop Ball, which has been put together to promote and celebrate her newest album, Artpop, Lady Gaga will make two stops in the Middle East: Istanbul and Dubai. Both shows promise to be a multimedia absurdist extravaganza and, even if you don’t dig her music, you should go for the circus-like spectacle that only Lady Gaga can deliver. www.ticketmaster.ae

WHEN: 21- 23 August WHERE: Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi WHAT: Magic Show Successful street musician? Intrepid purveyor of superhuman endurance? Idiot with a deck of cards, a death wish and a camera? No one really knows who, or indeed what, David Blaine really is. One thing that is certain, however, is his legacy as one of the most intriguing performers in the world today. Ever since he appeared on our televisions back in 1997, Blaine has mystified his audiences, first with seemingly impossible magic tricks and then feats of strength, like encasing himself in a block of ice for over 63 hours, being buried alive for seven days and setting a new world record for holding his breath under water. His new tour, David Blaine: Real or Illusion, will be his debut performance in the Middle East and will undoubtedly make its Abu Dhabi attendees question the nature of reality.  www.ticketmaster.ae

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. sur la terre . the list .

aug

An Introduction to the best view in Golf

26 Apartments Available FOR SALE OR LEASE

With an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green and fairway of the world's most famous Golf Course, Hamilton Grand has been sensitively restored with an ‘Art Deco’ interior. Offering a truly exhilarating and uniquely Scottish experience.

This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a premier destination that is rich in history.

CONTACT:

Helen.Parker@oldcoursehotel.co.uk Managed and serviced by The Old Course Hotel Ltd

ST ANDREWS | KINGDOM OF FIFE | SCOTLAND KY16 9SP | +44 (0) 1334 474 371 | WWW.HAMILTONGRAND.CO.UK

the list Lifestyle

27 sep 4 oct

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31 oct 1 nov

GITEX Shopper Dubai

Big Boys Toys 2014

Paul McKenna: Change Your Life (in 2 Days)

WHEN: 27 September - 4 October WHERE: Dubai World Trade Centre WHAT: Electronic Consumer Show There’s a certain electricity in the air this coming autumn, as the adrenaline of all the region’s assembled tech wizards and cuttingedge gadget junkies will accumulate and descend upon yet another iteration of GITEX Shopper Dubai! Luring consumers of every description, GITEX brings to you the coolest bits and best offers on a veritable smorgasbord of the world’s newest, best and brightest technologies for communication, education and entertainment. The GITEX website calls its autumnal affair a “shopping bonanza,” and we are not quick to argue the point. Not only will you experience incredible sales and see what’s next for the future of the Middle East, but every attendee has a chance to win a car for each of the eight days of the event.

Much indeed like the lifeless automatons that shall soon rule the planet, attending GITEX Shopper Dubai 2014 is a no-brainer! www.gitexshopperdubai.com

WHEN: 3 - 5 October WHERE: Burj Park, Dubai WHAT: Lifestyle Consumer Show Despite the gender exclusivity implied by its name, the annual Big Boys Toys exhibition is the Gulf’s premier lifestyle extravaganza, and is well-suited for anyone interested in perusing and/or purchasing the best products the world of high-tech luxury has to offer. Whether it’s sci-fi supercar concepts, subaquatic James Bond-esque spy gear, revolutionary sound systems, the newest advancements across multiple media platforms or bits of automotive arcana inspired by the big screen, Big Boys Toys is a showcase of ingenuity the like of which simply cannot be experienced anywhere else in the region.

As anyone who attended the 2013 exhibit can attest, it was one for the ages, but even it is set to be eclipsed by this year’s show. See you at the cutting edge! www.bigboystoysuae.com

WHEN: 31 October - 1 November WHERE: Dubai World Trade Centre WHAT: Lifestyle Improvement Seminar These days, self-affirmation is usually relegated to punchy Facebook status updates using endearing and often misquoted words of fortune cookie-like wisdom. However, for true transcendence, one must look not to long-lost relatives or fleeting high school acquaintances, but rather the true professionals of personal evolutionary development. English hypnotist and self-help author Paul McKenna has been a student of that human condition for the past 25 years, and throughout his prolific career has helped others achieve a smarter, happier, richer and healthier existence through his vast catalogue of books, DVDs and CDs. His seminar, Change Your Life in 2 Days is perfect for anyone in need of a personal paradigm shift or simply those wanting to enhance their already meaningful lives. www.paulmckenna.com

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Cardon Comes to Qatar —

Premium Argentine clothing brand, Cardon, inaugurated its first exclusive store in the Middle East

Bringing Argentine style, class, and fine quality to the GCC, the prestigious red carpet event was held at the new Cardon boutique in Doha’s Lagoona Mall. Cardon celebrated its Doha grand opening alongside Her Excellency, the Ambassador of the Republic of Argentina, Rossana Cecilia Surballe and Cardon’s Founder and Chairman Gabo Nazar.

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Iftar & Souhour —

Burj Al Arab

Throughout Ramadan, the region’s finest hotels welcomed — guests for opulent Iftars & sumptuous Souhours.

People came together to break fast and celebrate the Holy Month deep into the night at Iftars and Souhours at the region’s top hotels. Sur la Terre brings you a selection of the most luxurious Ramadan tents from the Burj Al Arab in Dubai, to the Qatar-based RitzCarlton, Sharq Village & Spa and the W Doha. 

Burj Al Arab

Burj Al Arab

W Doha

W Doha

W Doha

W Doha

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Burj Al Arab

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Iftar & Souhour Ritz Carlton Doha

Ritz Carlton Doha

Ritz Carlton Doha

Ritz Carlton Doha

Sharq Village

Sharq Village

Sharq Village

Sharq Village ď‚„

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Ferrari California T Arrives In Qatar —

Alfardan Sports Motors launched its newest Ferrari offering

Ice sculptures, sand art and opera helped attendees of Alfardan Sports Motors’ launch of the the new Ferrari California T at Katara Hall understand the car’s origins.

The car was revealed following a spectacular video presentation featuring world renowned sand artist, Kseniya Simonova, and accompanied by a breathtaking performance by Viennese singer, Domino Blue.

Read more about the Ferrari California T on page 88.

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arabia

The 'Icons Of Luxury' Issue a l l f o u r Co l l eC to r ' s e d i t i o n s ava i l a b l e n ow !

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WELCOME To a world where money is no object and Cool comes at a price. FYEO is A millionaire’s shopping list that gives you an iNSIDE track to the things you need to own.

Bike to the Future

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The future is here, ladies and gentlemen, and just like we were promised in bygone documentaries like Back to the Future Part II, it hovers! Behold, the future-fortified power of the Aero-X, which despite its name is neither a crime-fighting mutant, nor a robot programmed for adult entertainment.

But don’t be disappointed, future-philes, because the Aero-X is nothing less than a flying motorcycle! If that doesn’t make you want to give the closest person next to you an earth-shattering high-five, you may be dead inside. Seating up to two non-abnormally obese sky-riders, this wondrous “bicyclone” (available for delivery in 2017) is powered by an aspirated rotary engine vetted through a sultry pair of carbon fibre propellers,

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which together lift you up to 10 feet in the air and hurl you headlong into tomorrow at a cool 45 miles an hour. Sure, we were upset it couldn’t hit 88 mph, too, but let’s not lose sight of the fact that we are one step closer to gravity-defying vehicular conveyance, okay? Developer Aerofex promises that its invention will allow unfettered access across the uppermost winds of change, thus benefitting things like rescue, disaster relief, aerial agricultural, ranching and ... border patrol. Okay, the implications of that last one are a bit worrying, but if you truly want to make your inner “Marty” truly McFLY, accept no substitutes! www.aerofex.com

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All Hail the Glow Cloud

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Call us traditional, but like most reasonably intelligent carbon-based lifeforms, we here at Sur la Terre Arabia have long been taught to both fear and respect ominous, light-emitting (and possibly sentient) “glow clouds” of indeterminate origin and supernatural ability.

Fortunately for us, the appropriately named Cloud - a project by artist Richard Clarkson - is less a nefarious portent of doom, and more an insanely cool audiovisual experience filled with sound and fury. In the words of its collaterals, the Cloud is, “on one hand an Arduino-controlled, motiontriggered lightning & thunder performance, and on the other, a music-activated visualizer and suspended speaker unit.” Perfect for those who enjoy the song of a low-rumbling rainstorm, as well as the dropping of sick beats, the Cloud can be infinitely catered to delivering an organic sound and light show all in the comfort of your home.

Wrapped in an aesthetically-arresting plume of cloudlike hypoallergenic billowiness that reacts to movement and music, the Bluetooth-enabled Cloud will shower your party in true clout. Of course, even though this cool objet d'art appears benevolent, we still don’t recommend that you run directly at the Cloud, shrieking and waving your arms just to see what it does. That sort of action usually ends in folly. www.richardclarkson.com/cloud

Pedal to the (Precious) Metal >>> What would you do with a vat of liquified gold? Personally, we’d build and gild a mechanised suit of armour and start fighting crime under the code name “Merry Gold.” Luckily for criminals everywhere, we don’t have a big tub of precious metal, but guess who does: the well-named The House of Solid Gold (THSG). These fine purveyors regularly drizzle that gilded sizzle over a bevy of various, often random objects, transforming them with their midas touch into things of shiny beauty. The latest (potentially greatest) beneficiary of THSG’s flaxen machinations is what has been dubbed both “The Beverly Hills Edition” and, more tellingly, “The Most Expensive Extreme Mountain Bike in the World.” A collaboration between THSG founder Hugh Power, and international sportsman Dan Bull, this 24k-dipped “fat bike” took over 750 hours to complete and only 13 of them will ever be made, customised to each buyer’s specific set of golden rules. The bike also comes with the emblem of THSG, which itself is an exercise in excess, hewn as it is with 600 black diamonds and 500 golden sapphires. Possibly the most precious thing about this bike, however, is that 90% of the proceeds from its sale (at $1 million each) will go to the Way to Happiness Foundation International, a charitable non-profit organisation. We still don’t see a useful application for a golden bike, but when has something so trivial as “practicality” ever concerned us?  www.thehouseofsolidgold.com

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Maybe it’s evident in our name, but we here at Sur la Terre have a certain affinity for luxury which highlights and celebrates the ethically-sourced; those products and pieces of art that tap into, but take nothing away from, the bounty of our planet. Sure, we love the gold-coated, jewel-festooned and intricately-laced, but our real bread and butter is haute sustainability. That’s why we’ve fallen in love with the ecological renderings of artist and furniture maker, Greg Klassen. His “River Collection” is, to us, of paramount beauty and heart. Inspired as it is by the natural allure found within his beloved Pacific Northwest environs, Klassen’s series is created by collecting the various

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felled trees that previously languished on the banks of the Nooksack River adjacent to his studio, and turning them into stunning yet functional works of art. Without otherwise intruding on the environment, the artist hand cuts and smooths a variety of woods such as maple, walnut and Western Red Cedar, before rendering them into naturally evocative scenes of serenity. The way he frames sheets of blue glass, which reflect the image of undulating rivers and brooks, affords each table or sculpture in his collection a rustic and robust quality that looks great in everything from a coffee to a conference table. www.gregklassen.bigcartel.com

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We expect that most Sur la Terre readers have, to turn a popular phrase, been born with a silver spoon in their mouths, but how many have been born into a solid gold crib? While our current readership may not have been blessed with such a golden opportunity, the next generation of Sur la Terrans will now not have to suffer the indignities of a banal childhood.

Luxuriating beneath a fine coating of 18-carat gold, the appropriately-named Dodo Bassinet “Gold Edition” was designed by Suommo Head Designer and CEO, Ximo Talamantes, to allow parents with the means to swaddle the yolk of their loins in gilded finery. With add-ons and variants including rose gold accents, gold yarn embroidery, wild raw silk bedding and other bespoke changes, just one of these cribs has reportedly been appraised at around $18 million! Of course, the backsplash drop look of the eggshaped crib does not necessarily need to be enshrined in gold, and Suommo has many other material options throughout the collection, which they are proud to announce as the company’s “most genuine crib” as “a real ode to mother love.” If you want the complete Gold Edition set, don’t forget to pick up Suommo’s golden baby earrings, golden crib and golden pacifier. www.suommo.com

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t the end of the corniche is the St Regis Abu Dhabi, a stunning two tower edifice joined at the apex. You may think that with the St Regis Al Saadiyat, the majestic resort on the other side of the water, there is no need for a second venture. This is a slightly different affair. As with all St Regis', the theme is marble, the customer service exemplary and the clientele exclusive. This iteration if St Regis has three slight variations: firstly, it is tailored more towards the business guest rather than the jet setter (Abu Dhabi is the finance capital of the UAE), secondly, there are apartments in the second tower available to rent; and thirdly, the hotel’s newly unveiled luxurious Abu Dhabi Suite.

The Suite life There is a new St Regis in Abu Dhabi, but this one is slightly unusual.

Words: Laura Hamilton Images: St Regis Abu Dhabi

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I had a private tour around the highest suspended suite in the world, in which I felt I was being shown round a super yacht. With stunning views of the water, it’s hard to wrench your eyes back to the luxurious suite, but when I did I was amazed. Split over two levels, decorated in the Arabian style, the suite is so expansive you need never leave. It has a private cinema, a spa area, a spacious living room that connects the two wings in which I imagine important business affairs are discussed, or private, glamorous parties held.

Looking down, however, is dizzying, as is the price of the majestic suite. This is the suite you want to stay in (and perhaps never want to leave).

Back in my slightly more modest suite, I contemplated how to spend my day. Luckily, even though the hotel is primarily suited to business travelers, there is access to the beach. As the highway divides the sea from the St Regis, the access point is a heavily guarded tunnel that takes you to a private beach. Walking through the rather long stretch of underground architecture is akin to air travel; it gives off the impression you're in an airport terminal or a subway, minus the grime and graffiti. On being released, blinking, into the sun, you feel like you've travelled to another country. When I visited, the club house wasn't fully operational, but I had a peek around and then sauntered down to the beach and relaxed for an hour or two, slightly self conscious in my bikini. On my „

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way back, the Russian family who had imprinted themselves on me like ducklings were led astray as I got a wee bit lost, so perhaps some signs might be in order to decrease Scottish/Russian tensions.

Then I freshened up and headed to dinner. The restaurant had a lovely intimate balcony, which I ruined for all the couples by turning up in my new statuesque heels, a book and no one to accompany me. The staff made me feel most welcome, which makes it harder to admit that even though I adore Italian cuisine, I didn't really enjoy the meal at Villa Toscana. Azura, the rooftop bar had a far better atmosphere, with a panoramic view of the corniche and the bright lights of Abu Dhabi, as well as some delicious cocktails, and I heartily regret not eating there for dinner. However, when I return to Abu Dhabi, that's the one place that's stuck in my mind as a great way to while a few hours away gossiping.

Remede Spa was by far my favourite part of the St Regis. The spa itself is huge over 3,200 sq metres of white marble, with beautiful views over the water. After my invigorating massage, which woke me up out of the dream state I had been in after wandering around the hotel for a few days, I reclined in the relaxation room and merely looked out into the bay and felt the calm wash over me.

Later that afternoon, I had a high tea with Oliver Key, the General Manager, by which I mean I pigged out on scones and clotted cream while Oliver stuck to his guns and declined every offering with nerves of steel. When you work in hospitality, the sheer amount of food available to you must keep fitting into your clothes a daily struggle; one I would happily give up when confronted with Gary Rhodes' cream tea.

If you’re a business traveller and are making your way to Abu Dhabi any time soon, this is where I suggest you lay your weary head. On the flip side, if you’re looking for a good hangout spot in the UAE’s capital, Azura is the place you want. As I left the hotel later that day to head out to the small airport in Abu Dhabi, mulling over the several identities that the St Regis manages to inhabit without hurtng its authenticity, I realised that the St Regis Abu Dhabi is the most Arabian five star hotel I have been in that isn’t actually a homegrown brand; a feat that does credit to the St Regis. I’m not sure if it’s the atmosphere, quiet but grand, or the majesty of the interior, or perhaps just the location, but this St Regis is something else entirely.

Clockwise; The luxurious Crystal Lounge is the perfect place for afternoon tea; The marble bathrooms are marvellous to behold; Dessert is a delicious affair; The pool is a good place to see and be seen; Remede Spa will relax you and The St Regis Bar is a good place to round off a night.

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The Ritz-Carlton DIFC

Ritz-Carlton of the Opera The Ritz-Carlton in Dubai International Financial District (DIFC) is unlike any other.

Words: Laura Hamilton Images: The Ritz-Carlton DIFC and Laura Hamilton

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t this point in my vastly overprivileged life, I’ve stayed in many a Ritz. There are certain things you can count on; a majestic building, the attentive staff (it was Cesar Ritz, the Swiss hotelier who said the immortal words, “The customer is always right!”), the easy elegance and sumptuous quarters in which to rest your heavy head. The Ritz-Carlton DIFC however, located in the heart of Dubai’s bustling financial centre, is clearly one of a kind. 

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On entering the domain you are confronted with a shark. Metallic and dangling ominously under a waterfall that glides down the glass exterior of the several storey high facade, it is certainly an unforgettable entrance. Hotel art is often hugely unadventurous, poorly chosen and unmemorable, but not in Lothar Quarz’s domain.

The GM of the Ritz-Carlton DIFC works closely with Opera Gallery, which is handily located just next door in the DIFC, to populate the hotel with unique artworks. Mostly sculptural works, peppered round corners, the art is a talking point amongst guests, and in this era of the selfie, taking a photo with a fuscia dog is definitely going to be an instant hit on Instagram. Opera Gallery and the hotel often host parties together; and everyone who is anyone is invited. Art may seem like a niche interest, but it elevates the hotel from elegant gateway to the DIFC to standalone knockout.

First on the agenda was a dinner at the newly opened Belgian offering, where the itinerary promised something quite unique for the UAE; a beer tasting. This latest trend in the culinary world has caught on fire in the last few years. My younger brother has been infected by the beer bug, even venturing into the Highlands of Scotland to attend a beer tasting; a curious event that piqued my interest. Surely there isn’t that much to beer? Ah, but how I was wrong. At the Cafe Belge, a beautiful art deco restaurant on the ground floor, held a beer tasting for us journos, pairing the various brews with delicacies from the kitchen.

The beer sommelier, or cicerone, explained how meat complemented the darker beers, as you would expect, and the lighter beers went well with seafood; which I took as licence to scarf as many oysters as possible. We shared starters of oxtail cromesquis, warm king crab, warm goats cheese toast and a spectacular seafood platter, and then I chose the Moules with Hoegaarden white beer, which is my staple when holidaying in Europe. To finish, we all indulged in a Belgian waffle - it had to be done - drenched in chocolate sauce and ice cream.

It’s hard to tell what I was the most impressed by, the stylish decoration or the delicious Belgian fare. It was clear, however, that this restaurant was going to be a big hit amongst the trendy Dubai crowd. Bone tired, I dragged myself back to my new apartment, sorry, gigantic hotel “room,” where I wrapped myself in the soft duvet and drifted into sleep.

In the morning, I gave myself proper leave to explore the Ambassador Room in which I found myself. Ostensibly a small apartment, the living room curved out into an L shape (the bedroom tucked away to the left), with French doors that opened out into a rather large private balcony with two sun loungers. The ensuite was larger than the bedroom (of which I heartily approve), a masterpiece of marble and glass. The current vogue seems to be baths and showers encased in glass, a curious development in interior design that I feel raises many questions as to how other people observe bathroom etiquette.

I spent most of the morning at the desk, laptop poised and back straight, pretending I was the CEO of a Fortune 500, when in reality I was frantically answering emails. Luckily, the position of the desk enabled me a good view of the rest of the room, so when there was a lull, I sat down on the arm chairs in front of the tv and put my feet up. It’s the sort of hotel room which you won’t find yourself bored of immediately; it’s far too big.

Time stole away from me, and by the time I sauntered up to the Club Level to look for coffee, breakfast was long over. Standing looking at the empty trays, bereft and heartbroken, the lovely manager of the Club took me under her wing and made me a soy latte to cheer me up, and then ordered me eggs benedict from room service as the chef had already left. Feeling grateful, I tucked in and basked in my good fortune.

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. sur la terre . revue .

As the summer sun flares on, my skin has slowly turned into sandpaper, so I took a trip to the spa in the afternoon in order to get some much needed rejuvenation. The entrance to the spa is guarded by a wolf, another of the many sculptures that occupy the hotel’s nooks and crannies. Inside the cool marble labyrinth, a beautician scraped away at my weather beaten face, to produce soft skin I never knew I had. I regret to inform you that the facial was so relaxing, despite the scraping, that I was woken up by my own snoring.

Wandering round the DIFC later, I contemplated what it would be like to work there. Sipping my coffee from my perch in a cafe, I watched the workers buzz around, clad in black jackets, crisp white shirts, pearls and brogues, talking business, pitching ideas and name dropping. I may never carry a briefcase (except for sartorial reasons), but I can always drop in on the Ritz Carlton DIFC and pretend I’m a businesswoman for the day.

The Ritz-Carlton DIFC has the most spacious suites I've ever seen., while its bars and restaurants elevate it to a whole other level.

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style confidential

the seasonal swing

Shutterstock

Make a seamless style shift from summer to autumn thanks to fashion’s new head honchos, The latest must-have cover-ups and an urban hub of chic whites.

PARIS - BLANC ET MINIMAL Flee the heat of the Middle East and plan a balmy autumn breather in Paris to soak up a city oozing with culture, style and architecture on every boulevard, Grand Avenue and cobbled courtyard. A capsule wardrobe of white and neutrals will suit your every fashion demand, taking you from macaroons at Ladurée to pin crunching on Rue Faubourg St Honoré and onto dinner al fresco at Laurent. And while Paris may be an ancient city bursting with history, colour and richness, modern Paris is also home to some of the most chic and minimalist sights, sounds and sleeps.

Dress by

What to pack

An effortless white dress, chic yet comfy flats, heels for after dark, a statement necklace and a versatile carry all handbag screams Parisian grace.

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Sandals Givenchy

Heels Jimmy Choo

Bag Chloé

Victoria Beckham Necklace J.Crew at Net-a-Porter.com

. sur la terre . style confidential .

A chic slumber

Hôtel de Nell, 9 Rue du Conservatoire 75009 – This is understated chic at its best: dreamy white-on-white rooms filled with natural light, clean lines, custom made furniture and Bulgari toiletries as well as a top notch in-house restaurant La Régalade Conservatoire and spa.

Minimalist foodie heaven

Agapé Substance, 66 Rue Mazarine, St Germain – This former art gallery turned restaurant serves stylish contemporary French cuisine. Try the tasting menu and accompanying organic wines.

Toyo, 17, rue Jules Chaplain, 6eme – Opened by former chef to fashion designer Kenzo, Toyo Nakayama, this Japanese fusion restaurant oozes elegance and is the epitome of refined gastronomic delicacies.

House of Holland at Net-A-Porter.com

Le Specs at Net-A-Porter.com

Maison Martin Margiela at Net-A-Porter.com

Accessorize

ChloĂŠ at My Optique Group

Le Specs at My Optique Group

Miu Miu at My Optique Group

Ralph Lauren at My Optique Group

Superdry at My Optique Group

Oliver Goldsmith

Oliver Goldsmith

Shutterstock

The Row at Net-A-Porter.com

Topshop

Sunny side up

Rachel Zoe

Nothing gives your everyday look an instant style injection than a pair of sunglasses, and nothing screams street chic cool like a pair of round sunnies. Hollywood stylist Rachel Zoe gives her boho chic style a cool retro vibe with her oversized Salvatore Ferragamo frames, or why not channel off-duty pop star cool with a pair of playfully coloured or patterned frames. ď‚„

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Fashion flashback Keep your eye on your flares and florals next summer, ladies. If Topman Design’s SS 15 collection is anything to go by, the boys will be honing a distinct seventies vibe with bold florals, wide-spread collared shirts, washed out pastels and bell bottomed trousers. Entitled “Seventies Nineties,” there was also a clear Grunge feel to the collection – the oversized parkas were very Oasis circa 1997. Think the boys of Oasis and Blur raving at a Seventies party in a very big house in the country.

Men’s designer watch:

OLIVER SPENCER

Too cool for Gieves & Hawkes, but not street enough for Sibling? Then Oliver Spencer is the brand for you. The British designer, who has nailed the perfect balance of street wear and tailoring, is a favourite among musos and movie stars including Orlando Bloom and the Rolling Stones. Renowned for his unstructured blazers, impeccably cut trousers, statement knitwear and refined shirts, Oliver Spencer is the go-to brand for the modern gentleman.

Oliver Spencer’s three must haves: 1. Oxford shirt 2. Oliver Spencer mac 3. A great pair of Goodyear-welted shoes Oliver’s style advice: “Start your outfit at the shoes and consider the way you hold yourself.”

Oliver Spencer is available at MrPorter.com

Online style With a recent British report stating that the male fashion market grew by 4.8% in 2013 to reach £12.9bn (Mintel), there is no surprise that more and more male friendly fashion websites are popping up. And it isn’t just for the ease of online shopping or personal shopping advice that men are logging on. Today’s style driven gent wants chat, news and insight. So for testosterone worthy style inspiration take a look at www.highsnobiety.com, www.theurbangent.com, www.fashionbeans.com and www.hypebeast.com.

Shopping made easy

When it comes to online shopping, the newly launched www.theidleman.com (from ex head of menswear at ASOS) is a one-stop online shopping destination designed for the credible man to find what he wants as easily as possible, from a range of brands including Supremebeing, Vans, Farah Vintage and Religion.

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. sur la terre . style confidential .

AUTUMN ALERT New faces

Louis Vuitton

Bag envy: If you’re looking for the ultimate new arm candy, Louis Vuitton’s latest bowling bag knocks down more than ten pins. The cool retro swirls, classic monogram and eye catching azure blue is a strike in one.

Louis Vuitton

It’s all change at the big fashion houses for the coming AW 14 season with Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jeremy Scott at Moschino and Alessandro Dell’Acqua at Rochas. The most anticipated highlights were Nicolas Ghesquiere and his first collection for Louis Vuitton. On what he called a “quest for authenticity and innovation,” the ex-Balenciaga designer created an elegantly chic, yet understated collection with a subtle sixties influence, featuring belted A-line dresses and skirts, narrow coats and skin tight glossy trousers: a fresh and contemporary start for the Parisian powerhouse of haute. We look forward to what Mr. Ghesquiere has in store for SS 2015.

Effortless additions...

Ploughing through the new season trends can get tiresome, not to mention pricey, so why not start with an accessory update for an instant autumn boost. When it comes to footwear, knee high boots will add a subtle sixties swing to your step, while for a more austere finish, a sumptuous fur stole oozes new season elegance. For a simple addition to every day separates, a tough luxe statement necklace will inject the required urban appeal.

Wrap up Make sure an all-encompassing yet lightweight cloak, cape or even a coatigan (yes that is a mix of a coat and a cardigan) is on your wish list for autumn, as these stylish cover ups were all over the AW 14 catwalks.

We particularly love Ralph Lauren’s blanket coat, Chloé’s dressing gown coat, Burberry’s watercolour wrap and Valentino’s soft leather cape. For a new season steal, this pale pink coatigan from Hobbs is just the ticket to transport your look.

Fur stole Lanvin, Boots Maison Martin Margiela at Net-A-Porter.com, Necklace Etro at Net-A-Porter.com

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GLOBETROTTER

Where: EDINBURGH. What: EDINBURGH FRINGE FESTIVAL When: 5 – 25 AUGUST

www.edfringe.com The biggest festival in the world encompasses everything arty. The best musicians and orchestras, opera singers and comedians, writers and dancers all gather in Scotland’s capital for a three week sojourn.

Where: MIAMI What: ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH When: 4TH – 7TH DECEMBER

www.artbasel.com One of the most important art fairs in the world, Art Basel Miami Beach boasts the most luxurious and funky location. Expect huge bursts of vivid colour!

Where: MILAN What: FASHION WEEK When: 23RD SEPTEMBER

www.fashionweekdates.com The Italians know fashion. Forget Paris, New York and London, all the fashion insiders head to Milan, Italy’s fashion capital to discover the latest trends for the upcoming year.

Global Gatherings Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance

map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, “sur la terre”) over the coming months.

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. sur la terre . globetrotter .

Where: Tokyo What: International Film Festival When: 23rd - 31st October 2014

www.tiff-jp.net In its 29th year, this nine-day event offers film fans of all ages seminars, symposiums and workshops as well as, of course, great movies. This year, there will be a special focus on animated movies, with a showcase of the works of Anime legend, Hideaki Anno.

Where: SHANGHAI What: SHANGHAI ROLEX MASTERS When: 5TH – 12TH OCTOBER

www.shanghairolexmasters.com Sporting white and thrashing raquets, tennis players will battle it out in the heat of the Chinese sun to win the Shanhai Rolex Masters.

Where: HONG KONG What: FINE ART ASIA When: 4TH – 7TH OCTOBER Where: NEW DELHI What: DIWALI, FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS When: 23RD OCTOBER

www.fineartasia.com Head to Hong Kong for Asia’s leading art fair. The cosmopolitan city boasts some of the finest living artists today, as well as attracting contemporary artists from all over the world to sell their wares to patrons with deep pockets.

www.diwali.nl One of the most beautiful cultural festivals in the world, Diwali is celebrated all over the globe, but the best place to experience it is in New Dehli.

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GLOBETROTTER

where i n the world . . .

SLT endeavours to bring you the hidden gems from around the world.

Since we can now fly from the GCC to more than ten Japanese cities we take a look at the best of what the Land Of The Rising Sun has to offer.

nightlife - two rooms Where: Tokyo GPS: 35 ˚ 40' 04.32" N, 139 ˚ 42' 45.59" E With its generous cocktail list including the tempting Two Rooms Spicy Bloody Mary, as well as the extensive whisky list (as expected in a Japanese bar), Two Rooms is a seriously potent place to sip your favourite tipple. Not content to keep the bar menu limited to

cocktails and spirits, the good people at Two Bars have concocted an international wine list consisting of an 1,800-strong bottle glass cellar, which travellers must pass through to reach the private dining room.

Decorated with plush leather and swamp kauri (prehistoric trees from New Zealand which have been preserved in peat for 50,000 years and have a distinctive yellow hue), the bar has a unique ambience. There is also a rooftop bar, where you can appreciate Tokyo’s fantastic skyline, as well as the iconic art by Masashi Ozawa, a famous local artist. www.tworooms.jp

shopping - kenzo Where: Osaka GPS: 34 ˚ °40' 25.45" N, 135 ˚ °29' 49.65" E This luxury label was founded by Kenzo Takada in the style capital of the world, Paris, in 1970, but still retains a very Japanese feel to it. Mixing Asian style with European high fashion, Kenzo has proved popular with the edgier fashionistas, from Lorde to Rihanna. The cutting edge and often in-your-face style is now run by Californian natives Carol Lim and Humberto Leon after Takada retired from fashion in 1999. The Kenzo look is epitomised by the mash-up of bold colours and print, something Takada started doing when he was in his youth, buying mismatched clothes from flea markets, and has now become the Kenzo signature. Underneath the strong sartorial presence is an equally strong sense of humour and fun in fashion; something the fashion world often lacks. Kenzo is one of the few labels that distinguishes people who like fashion from people who like style, and remains a byword for avant-garde and is the door to the intense Japanese world of fashion. kenzo.com

Kenzo

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. sur la terre . globetrotter .

hotel - claska Where: Tokyo GPS: 35 ˚ 37' 53.14" N, 139 ˚ °41' 42.76" E This boutique hotel only has twenty rooms, but the attention to detail in each is extraordinary. There are four types of rooms, each with its own distinct style conceptualised by a different architect. The first of which is “Japanese Modern” produced by Intentionallies; akin to being invited into a friend’s house (albeit, one with incredibly good taste), the room is decorated with carefully chosen antiques from all over Asia. The second is named “Tatami,” after the mats that line the floor in traditional Japanese houses. Designed by Kaname Okajima, these rooms are a case of east meeting west, lined with tatami mats but also encompassing a bed.

Each room in “Contemporary” is completely unique and has been constructed by a bevvy of architects, and finally, “The Weekly Residence” which was designed

by TORAFU ARCHITECTS. The conceptual space has curved holes in the walls which provide space for everything from clothes, to artwork to speaker systems, making a unique area in which to rest a weary head or stage a high powered business meeting. claska.com

restaurant - kozou Where: TOKYO GPS: 35 ˚ °41' 09.71" N, 139 ˚ °40' 53.61" E Could there be anything more Japanese than indulging in authentic and hearty Japanese fare while lounging in the restaurant with a view of Mount Fuji? The answer, of course, is, Kozou! With the amber wood and handmade pottery dishes that the kimono-clad waitresses carry to

your table, you might be led into thinking that you had walked into a scene from a hundred years ago. Kozou, indeed, forgoes any “twists” on traditional food, but for those unused to Japanese cuisine, the dishes are still accessible. The sashimi, sesame flavoured tofu and yonezawa sirloin wrapped in hoba leaf are must-haves; succulent and moreish, the perfect food to slowly eat while gazing at one of the biggest mountains in the world, as well as one of the most exciting cities out of the floor-to-ceiling windows. tokyo.park.hyatt.com

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fotoarabia .com

u p close a n d per so n a l

Mother Daughter In introducing new movie A Million Ways to Die in the West, actress Charlize Theron reveals to Sur la Terre International the unique bond she has with her mother, and how the pair have overcome considerable adversity in their lives.

Words: Eva Steen

C

harlize Theron is not quick to complain about her lot. As a beautiful, stylish, successful Oscar-winning Hollywood actress, the face of Dior and new mother to the adopted Jackson, such ingratitude would be churlish in the extreme.

The 38-year-old knows as much, so when discussing her new film A Million Ways to Die in the West, the South African-born actress is keen, as she so often has been over her sporadically difficult life, to accentuate the positives.

Comedy has not been a genre that Theron has granted herself too much access to, but rather than bemoan a lack of experience, she chooses instead to focus on and celebrate the opportunities that have made her one of LA’s leading ladies. “I always say this, but I am in no position to complain,” she begins, keen to lay a foundation to our interview from the very start. “Let’s be clear - I work a lot and I work on things that I really want to work on. And if you consider that, then I am a very, very blessed human being. So, for me to complain about anything is silly.

"I don’t do a lot of comedy,” she continues, “but I don’t necessarily complain about that because it has to be a very specific thing. I get a lot of stuff offered to me, but it’s not just necessarily stuff that I feel is funny. And if I do want to jump into comedy, then it absolutely has to be the right comedy.” 

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"I h av e nev er he a r d of a n ac t or w ho just wa n ted t o be a ble t o pay t he bill s a n d no t h av e t o a wa it ta bles on t he side . The a im is a lways f or t he t op."

A Million Ways to Die in the West, directed and written by Family Guy creator Seth MacFarlane, certainly feels like the “right” comedy. A humorous take on the Wild West genre set in 1882 Arizona, it takes Theron out of her comfort zone, but willingly. So much so, that the initial meeting with MacFarlane turned out so unproductively, she had to chase him in order to restate the case for her involvement. “When this came to me, I saw the potential, and I really screwed up the first meeting with Seth,” she laughs. “So I fought for it. The first time I met him I had a 104-degree fever and had just come back from Namibia after shooting in the desert. Believe me, I was a wreck. I literally got off the plane and I met him - I was in a winter coat shivering and I had no hair, and he was just like ‘who are you?!’

of an actor who just wanted to be able to pay the bills and not have to a wait tables on the side. The aim is always for the top.”

The next 12 months will see Theron in three films – her Western comedy adventure, Mad Max, plus Dark Places. It marks her busiest period of onscreen activity for several years. Part of the reason for a slowdown in activity over the past few years has been down to the adoption of son Jackson in March 2012. Like any working mother with a young child, routine changes dramatically. How has that affected the way in which she works? “The routine begins and ends with sleep preservation,” she laughs. “But really, life now is all about having to organise things better. That’s been the big thing for me.

“For days afterwards all I could think was ‘God, I really messed that up,’ so I called him and told him I wanted to meet with him again. When this stuff comes around now I fight for it.”

“Creatively, I have heard people say that once they have children they don’t want to work on dark material, but that hasn’t happened for me.

If anything, having a child has just made me want to be more creative, ask bigger questions and have more interests in things that might be uncomfortable. I think we all have different responses, but for me it’s definitely been like that. I didn’t look at my slate and go, ‘No, I can’t do that movie now that I have a kid.’ Jackson just gives me energy to want to do more and explore more.”

Learning how to handle a gun was nothing new to the versatile Theron. “I’ve had to do stuff like that in movies all the time so there’s a sense of learning that one carries onto the next one.” she says. Nonetheless, the actress had a few arduous days on set with weapon in hand. “Seth and I went and practised together,” she offers. “I think one day we shot something, which was awful.

Then the temperature dropped to freezing and we looked at each other and we were like, ‘This isn’t fun.’ It got so cold. It was testing!”

Theron’s rise to prominence, the start of which can be accurately pinpointed to 1997’s The Devil’s Advocate, where she starred alongside Al Pacino and Keanu Reeves, came against a backdrop of a tumultuous and heartbreaking upbringing in her native South Africa. Born in Johannesburg, Theron suffered while her alcoholic father physically abused both her and her mother.

The abuse became so unbearable that, one night, Theron’s mother shot her father dead in self defence. No charges forthcoming, but an early die had been cast as to the sort of resilience the actress would need to display in later life where her career was concerned. Theron overcame the anguish. In fact, some might even suppose she flourished against a backdrop of pain and adversity. Today, she is one of the most talented and recognisable faces in Hollywood. It’s a history that perhaps explains the kinship she feels with fellow African and Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o, who marked her own reference to a testing legacy by stating that “every little girl’s dream is valid”.

“That was a very lovely moment,” says Theron, “because a lot of people don’t acknowledge that I am African – they don’t see me like that. I ran into her parents backstage at the Oscars and they said, ‘Our African sister!’ That was lovely.”

Positivity is one thing, but all the optimistic thoughts in the world could not have taken Theron on the career path she has enjoyed. Could she ever have imagined breaking through the adversity of her childhood to claim Oscar success herself (for her portrayal of Aileen Wuornos in 2003’s Monster)? “No, I don’t think anybody can dream that big,” she returns, modestly. “I don’t think anybody who has gone through that experience will tell you that they believe they could aspire to that sort of level - it would be grandiose to sit around and expect those things to come to you. But look, I have never heard

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Given the closeness to her mother and the traumatic experience they both went through all those years ago, Theron, perhaps more than anybody else, knows the value of a strong, committed family unit, given that safety had to be fought for when she was growing up. The connection she feels with her own mother, while different to relationship with friends, is one she therefore values intensely. “I think people are there for different reasons. I mean I think I have a closeness to my mum, we are friends, but she’s my mother first and foremost and that’s how I was raised. That’s why I think we are so close, because she never tried to just be my friend.

She’s my mum.

“I think that’s why we have had the relationship that we have always had, because it’s a healthy one. She’s not just my girlfriend; she just happens to be a person that I actually really like. But she’s the first person to put me in line, the way a parent does!”

Does that still happen, in spite of the actress’ fame and fortune? “Yes, of course,” she laughs. “I mean, in a way where she treats me like I am an adult. She doesn’t treat me like I am 12 anymore, but we have a very healthy relationship in that sense, and I value that so highly.”

So there it is: even a woman as successful as Charlize Theron, with an Oscar for best actress to her name, can still receive a telling off from her mum.

“Every child wants their parent to be proud of them, and I think anybody who won’t admit that is secretly hiding something. I feel there’s definitely a sense when it comes to a child and their parent, and I think we are all human beings and it can sometimes be harder to take criticism from a parent. I have had moments with mum where she’s like, ‘That movie is a piece of crap!’” she laughs. “But I would rather her be incredibly honest, because when she says that movie is really good, I really believe it!”

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

Words: James McCarthy Pictures: Herbert Villadelrey / Hackett London

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great Briton Regional Managing Editor, James McCarthy, gets some sartorial tips from A quintessentially British style icon: Jeremy Hackett ď‚„

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H

ackett is as British as fish & chips, Big Ben and talking about the weather. Along with the likes of Aston Martin, the brand is a global flag bearer for the nation. What do you think it is about the British style - which you and these other brands epitomise that makes it so appealing to the rest of the world?

Well, from a man’s point of view, I think that they look to Britain to show their success, it’s where they have their suits made, where they have their shoes made, where they have their shirts made. Britain is that sort of place. I think it is partly because there is a heritage; there is a sense of occasion with the way that we dress for so many events that doesn’t exist in a great deal of other countries in the way that it does in England.

If you are going to the country, you dress for the country, if you are going shooting, you dress for shooting, if you are going racing, you dress for racing, etc. Other countries, perhaps, do something similar, but there is something about the British way of doing it. It possibly goes back to the day of the Empire - we left a footprint on a large portion of the world and while in some respects it was dreadful, in others, I think that we left behind a legacy of certain things that people actually admired.

I read a lot about the Chinese billionaires that build their homes brick for brick to look like Blenheim Palace; it seems as though there is something quintessentially ingrained in the foreign psyche about what a British gentleman is. Hollywood seems to just see us as bad guys, but everyone else strives to reach that ideal.

Exactly, the funny thing, of course, is that in Britain, nobody ever talks about themselves being a gentleman, it sounds a bit crass. But I do think that distance lends enchantment. There is this whole romantic notion of an English gentleman.

Look at Downton Abbey, it has become absolutely massive around the world.

An American friend of mine has an estate near Highclere Castle, where they film it, and he is absolutely mad about it. I told him that I had never seen it, and he sent me a box set straight away. It is still wrapped up, I haven’t got

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around to watching it. I saw Gosford Park and that was enough. But yes, that is how they see us, or rather, how they want to see us.

As such a quintessentially British tailor, you don’t seem to be as stuffy as some of your Savile Row counterparts. Your stores are also quite funky places to visit.

How do you keep the brand energised?

We have a lot of young guys who work for us and it is about marrying the tradition while embracing a sort of younger way of putting it together, really. I think, even from the beginning with Hackett, we put the British ideals together, if you will, in a way that seemed to have embraced the way that Italians, or the Spanish, view Britain. Hackett generally represents British ideals but it is British in a European sense. That makes it more accessible generally around the world, rather than just trying to sell the original British clothing ideals.

You mean the Savile Row ways of tailoring?

In a way, but you do get the best suits in the world from there. Personally, I am not in a least bit intimidated by it, because I know the ins and outs of it. I worked in Savile Row in the 1970s for about three years, but I was in a shop that was a complete contrast from any of the others. It was covered in chrome and shag pile carpet, all brown furniture with brown leathers and it was incredibly avant-garde for its day, but what we made in the shop was incredibly traditional.

In Britain, nobody talks about themselves being a gentleman, it’s a bit crass, but distance lends enchantment.

There is this whole romantic notion of an English gentleman.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

I think people find that the atmosphere in Hackett is far more welcoming. You embrace the customer as they come in, regardless of their means.

I have always found that the person that comes into the shop who looks the least likely to spend money often turns out to be the best customer.

I will always say that to everyone who works in the shop. I had a man who came in when I was in the Sloane Street branch, it was a Saturday morning, and he was a scruffy looking bloke and quite a large man. He said that he wanted a cardigan. So, I found him a cardigan to put on, and then he said he needed some trousers and I knew straight away that we didn’t have his size, but told him that we could make a pair. So, I took him upstairs to our tailor, and from that day, until the end of the year, he spent forty thousand pounds with us having stuff made. When he walked in the door you wouldn’t have thought that this guy was going to buy a thing.

fashion. Most of men’s clothing comes from a practical purpose. But you don’t often see turned-back cuffs, because it’s difficult to do on a readymade suit. I like it, particularly on a suit that’s quite plain, it just stops it looking like an average, off-the-peg suit.

A double-cuff shirt is also a must too, in my opinion. Men get so few opportunities to wear jewellery, and a nice pair of cufflinks, matched to the watch, obviously - silver cufflinks, steel bracelet, just looks great.

What are your sartorial pet peeves?

Something that really annoys me is seeing men with the wrong buttons done up on their suit's jacket. So often, you'll see a chap with a three-button suit and all of the three buttons are 

Let’s talk a little bit about your style. You are a sartorial icon, so I want to take this rare opportunity to ask you for a few tips. What are the staple items that every man should have in his sartorial armoury, what is the best way to use them and what should you consider when shopping for them?

I am going to say what I always say, every guy should have a navy blue blazer. I have probably written that on my Mr Classic blog a couple of times. Navy blue is probably my favourite colour, not that I am wearing it now. It doesn’t have to be a double breasted, brass-buttoned number.

It just has to be some sort of blue tailored jacket.

It could be cotton, unstructured, one button, two buttons, three buttons, patch pockets, but as long as it is navy blue and something you can dress up or down with a pair of jeans or grey flannels. As I have said before, it is the man’s fashion equivalent of a lady’s black dress. It can take you anywhere and it’s the easiest jacket to wear. Every guy should have one.

The other thing, if you are only going to have one suit, it should probably be navy blue. Buy one good suit instead of three cheap ones, as well, and always buy good shoes. I have an expression that my father gave me, which was: “I am too poor to buy cheap shoes.” I think that is a really good line. [laughs] I think it was just his excuse for buying expensive shoes, actually.

What should a man look for when buying a suit?

A decent suit starts with the shoulder. If the shoulder’s right, everything else follows.

It’s about getting the right silhouette. It’s the hardest part of a suit to construct; the sort of padding you use makes a great deal of difference, as does how you set the sleeve into the shoulder. It’s pretty skilled work, actually.

Obviously, the cloth has to be decent, but it’s also about making sure you’ve got good buttons.

Well, it’s all of the little details, really, like working buttons on the cuff of the jacket, that kind of thing. It’s mostly about going for something that’s not obviously a fashion statement. I’m pretty old fashioned about suits.

I grew up selling them in the 70s and Savile Row taught me a lot about a good suit.

I’m admiring your turn-back cuffs.

It comes from quite an old English thing. You used to see a lot of chaps from the horse racing fraternity wearing jackets with them. I think its military in origin, like so much else in men’s

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Hackett has stores all over the region, with the most recent opening in Qatar.

done up. Either that or they have a two-button suit and both buttons, or just the bottom one, is done up. It just irritates me and I see it so often television with newscasters and politicians who should really know better.

Also, logo t-shirts on men who are too old to wear them. Band t-shirts, or those with some ironic or witty statement on them. It’s fine if you’re a skater kid, or in your 20s, but on a grown-up man, I think it’s time to put them away. The odd person can get away with it, but on the whole, I don’t think most guys should do it. Don’t tell me, [laughing] you have a wardrobe full of Black Sabbath t-shirts?

I certainly wouldn’t wear one to interview Jeremy Hackett, my mother would kill me!

A funny story about the Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, who today is considered quite a stylish dresser, but in his day was quite a cad, you know? Breaking all the rules and so forth. He went to see his father, George V, by appointment of course, and went into his office, and his trousers had turn-ups. The King looked at him and said: “Come back when you’re properly dressed!” [laughing] Can you imagine that today? Turned away for having turnups? These days, I’d be thinking, “Thank god! He’s got turn-ups on his trousers, come and sit down.”

Of course, his grandfather, Edward VII, was quite the sartorial pioneer too. Didn’t he single-handedly invent the dinner jacket by lopping off the tails of his coat at a dinner party?

He was also the chap who instigated the tradition of undoing the bottom button of a waistcoat. After a big dinner, he undid his, and everybody else in the room followed suit. It has since become the rule.

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A decent suit starts with the shoulder. If the shoulder’s right, everything else follows. It’s about getting the right silhouette.

Talking about dinner jackets, a couple of months back I was invited to go on the radio by the BBC, and I remember reading somewhere that, back in the old days, all the presenters would wear black tie and tails, even though they were only on the radio. So, for a the hell of it, I turned up in full evening dress. Of course, everyone else was just sitting around in jeans and t-shirts. I acted surprised, exclaiming, “I thought this was how you were supposed to dress for radio!” It raised a laugh and broke the ice.

I was asked recently, “If you were stranded on a desert island, what couldn’t you live without?” Or some such thing, and I think I said, [in a mock-haughty voice] “my dinner jacket, of course, because it doesn’t matter where one is, one must maintain standards.” [laughs] Joking aside, though, I wonder whether, despite being on the radio, if wearing a dinner jacket ecouraged a certain air of gravitas in the way they delivered the news than if they had been slouching around in a battered cardigan and corduroys? I believe it probably did, because clothes, especially well made clothes, do have a way of increasing confidence and making you behave differently.

For more style tips, read the Mr. Classic blog at www.jeremyhackett.com

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j e ts e t

Flight of Fancy Once, it was the only way to travel for both constitutional monarchs and Hollywood royalty, alike.

James McCarthy recalls the rise and fall of a true luxury icon: Concorde. ď‚„

Words: James McCarthy Pictures: Dennis Gooch / Getty / Corbis

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This page; Concorde 002 takes off from Filton Airbase in Bristol on its maiden flight in 1969; opposite left, Queen Elizabeth II is given a tour of the cockpit; opposite right, Pilots, Brian Trubshaw (left) and John Cochrane (right), prepare for the mainden flight of Concorde 002.

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W

hen the mighty Concorde was finally grounded in 2003, the era of supersonic passenger aircraft fell to earth with it. Since the legendary aircraft’s final touchdown at Heathrow Airport eleven long years ago, humanity’s airborne ambition has devolved, once again, into bloated, subsonic airliners. Where man once soared, skirting the stratosphere, we now cruise lethargically at a paltry 30,000 feet, developing deep vein thrombosis alongside 299 other disgruntled souls.

Like the art-deco elegance of the Zeppelin age before it, the jet-set exclusivity of travel on the wave of a sonic boom, the excitement of record breaking flights between London and New York and the promise of bringing hemispheres within a day’s flying time have since been parked on the runways of history.

While the status quo with man’s airborne ambition is likely to remain unchanged, as airlines opt for volume over velocity, Concorde will always remain a true icon of luxury travel. It was unadulterated excess. With a round-trip ticket from Heathrow to JFK costing up to $13,000, there was no greater status symbol for the international jet-set.

Yes, it was loud inside the cabin; so loud, in fact, that you had to shout to order your Châteauneuf-du-Pape and, yes, it was cramped and hot, but then, so was the Lamborghini Countach, and a significant number of Concorde passengers drove those. People weren’t paying for the comfort, they were paying for the prestige.

Caribbean, but as much for the experience itself. Long before Emirates, Etihad and Qatar Airways started flaunting their respective VVVIP services (long before some of them even started operating, in fact), Concorde passengers were automatically considered “First Class” and had their own check-in desks and a separate lounge in which to relax before flying. The food served on-board was widely considered to be the finest in the air; passengers could enjoy, for instance, a freshly prepared whole lobster on specially-manufactured china plates, eaten with custom-made cutlery and all washed down with fine vintage champagne.

This was all done at 60,000 feet, skirting the edge of space and at Mach 2.2, twice the speed of sound.

There was a romance to it, a feeling of being part of something pioneering.

Concorde had recaptured the public’s imagination for air travel like no other aircraft ever could, consistently setting records that will never be matched. In 1996, a British Airways Concorde, piloted by Captain Leslie Scott, completed the run between London and New York in 2 hours, 52 minutes and 59 seconds from takeoff to touchdown, the fastest crossing of the Atlantic ever. A few years later, in 1999, Spain's Jose Maria Olazabal set a world record for a golf putt during the Concorde flight which was taking the European Ryder Cup team to the USA on the eve of the tournament. He not only holed his 150-foot putt down the length of Concorde’s cabin on his first attempt, but with Concorde travelling at 1,270mph, the ball was actually in motion for 9.232 miles.

Concorde could make the Atlantic crossing in under three hours and was jokingly referred to as a time machine. Flying west, passengers would arrive at JFK a full hour (locally) earlier than when they had taken off at Heathrow. Essentially, you were able to enjoy breakfast at Harrod’s, lunch on Madison Avenue and still be back home in time for supper. For trans-Atlantic business, it was a revelation.

The most elegant and recognisable of airborne silhouettes, Concorde became a global symbol of Britishness, taking part in flypasts with The Red Arrows and, occasionally, Spitfires and Lancaster Bombers at state occasions. The public lapped it up. One famous British Airways poster of my youth had an aerial shot of Concorde flying alongside The Red Arrows in a “V” formation while below them, in the middle of the ocean, the Queen Elizabeth II luxury cruise liner sailed serenely past. It was jingoistic advertising at its finest.

It was the only way for the well-heeled to travel, not only for its speedy transit to opulent destinations such as New York, Rio de Janeiro and the

Such campaigns were driven by then Managing Director of British Airways and shrewd businessman, Sir John King. He recognised the 

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While the entire Concorde fleet has been grounded and their airworthiness certificates withdrawn, they are still owned by BA and Air France. The fleet has since taken up residence at museums and permanent exhibitions around the globe.

potential of Concorde as an under-exploited and under-priced premium product in the hands of the British Government. When BA bought the fleet outright from the state in 1983, his research showed that the public believed Concorde’s ticket prices to be much more expensive than they actually were. Ticket prices were gradually raised to match the public perception and, after years of running Concorde at a mammoth loss, British Airways started turning a healthy profit.

High ticket prices created an air of exclusivity akin to the hedonistic jet-age of the 1950s and ‘60s. It was a time when you weren’t anyone unless you flew Concorde to the US. As well as the supermodels, rock stars, Hollywood idols, sports icons and business leaders, Concorde became the British equivalent of “Airforce One” on occasion, an airborne ambassador carrying the Queen and numerous Prime Ministers world-wide on official business.

Both the French President and the British Prime Minister each flew their respective countries’ Concorde to the second G6 Economic Summit, held in Puerto Rico in 1976, while the Queen chartered Concorde for her trips to Barbados on her Silver Jubilee in 1977, as well as again in 1987 and 2003; for her visit to the Middle East in 1984, and for her appearances in the US in 1991.

and intermittently throughout the day, as more of the sleek, arrowshaped “Speedbirds” would plough their way gracefully through sky. As I watched them recede, the fiery orange glow of its four afterburners leaving me in their wake, I would daydream about the day that I would fly Concorde.

Sadly, though, that day would never come. After 24 years of faultless service, on the morning of July 25th, 2000, tragedy struck as Air France flight 4590 caught fire upon take-off due to a ruptured fuel tank and crashed into a hotel in Gonesse, killing all 100 passengers and nine crew members on-board the flight, as well as four people on the ground. It was the only fatal accident involving Concorde, but it was the death knell for the iconic jet.

After a suspension of service for investigations and subsequent modifications to the shielding of the fuel tanks, Concorde resumed service on the ill-fated morning of September 11th 2001, and while it was hailed a success, it wasn’t a full flight. Then, just before Concorde touched back down at Heathrow on its return flight, world events conspired to compound the problems of Concorde’s ailing popularity

Wit h a rou n d - t r ip tick e t f rom He at h row t o JFK costing u p t o $13 ,0 0 0 , t her e wa s no gr e ater stat us sy mbol f or t he in ter nationa l je t -se t. People pa id f or t he pr estige . .

When Princess Diana made her first royal visit without Prince Charles to New York in 1989, she flew on Concorde. After Princess Grace died, the National Enquirer chartered a Concorde to get 30 reporters to France before their competition and when ageing crooner Rod Stewart got a lousy haircut during a 1991 US concert tour, a Concorde rushed his stylist in from London to fix the damage. At a time when large airliners like the Boeing 747 had made foreign holidays and travel for travel’s sake accessible to all, and no longer the preserve of the wealthy elite, Concorde was something truly aspirational.

The End Of An Era And aspire the public did. For some, it became a life’s goal.

Personally, as a child I used to set my watch by the sonic boom overhead, as at 11:06am, Concorde would roar past on its way to New York. Several hours later, I would rush outside to see it return,

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(Left) Freshly cooked whole lobster and vintage Champagne was the standard fare for Concorde passengers. (Above) A luggage check-in receipt for the Concorde's first commercial flight, London to Bahrain, in 1976.

Making Its Mach The origins of Concorde hail back to the 1950s, when aviation engineers were experimenting with the concept of a turbojet-powered supersonic passenger liner, however, it wasn’t until 1962, when an Anglo-French treaty was signed to jointly develop the aircraft through Aerospatiale and the British Aircraft Corporation (BAC).

The name itself, Concorde, means agreement, harmony or union.

Construction of two prototypes began in February 1965: 001, built by Aerospatiale in Toulouse, and 002, by BAC at Flilton in Bristol. A slender delta-wing design was adopted, measuring nearly 204-feet in length. During flight, however, Concorde stretched between six and 10 inches due to heating of the airframe. It was even covered in a specially developed white paint to accommodate these changes and to dissipate the heat generated by supersonic flight.

even further, as news arrived that the Twin Towers of the World Trade Centre in New York had been struck by two hijacked commercial aircraft in an unprecedented and terrifying attack.

Concorde touches in down in Bahrain in 1979; (inset) the speed counter in the Concorde cabin showed passengers when the aircraft reached supersonic speeds.

The incredible thrust required to reach speeds in excess of Mach 2, meant that there was a need for an incredible engine. Concorde employed four Rolls-Royce/SNECMA Olympus 593 turbojet engines, each with a 38,000lbs of thrust and to this day the most powerful jet engines ever fitted to a commercial aircraft. It allowed Concorde to reach speeds of up to 1,350mph, twice the speed of sound.

Concorde began operation on January 21st, 1976, taking off from London Heathrow, bound for Bahrain, while the French aircraft headed for Brazil. In October 1977, JFK operations and the scheduled flights, which would become the crown jewel of the Concorde legacy, from Europe to New York began the following month.

A sy mbol of w h at once m a de Br ita in gr e at ; a be acon of r isk a n d e n de avou r a n d t he epit ome of lu x u ry t h rough e xclusi v it y, Concor de wa s t he l a st tech nol ogic a l hu r r a h of a n a iling Empir e .

The ensuing culture of fear and paranoia hit the aviation industry hard and sent the Concorde services of both Britain and France into a tailspin from which the supersonic jet would never recover. In April 2003, both Air France and British Airways simultaneously announced that they would retire Concorde later that year.

On October 24th, 2003, Captain Mike Bannister, to great fanfare, fired up the Rolls-Royce Olympus engines one last time (commercially, at least) and BA002 took off from New York, bound for Heathrow.

On approach to London, the aircraft was joined by two of its siblings and the three Concorde planes circled over London at low altitude, before touching down in sequence at Heathrow, where public interest in those final landings was so great, that grandstands were erected

and they were attended en masse. The Queen even consented to the illumination of Windsor Castle, an honour reserved only for state events and visiting dignitaries, for Concorde’s final west-bound departure a day earlier, such was her regard for the retiring jet.

Now, all of BA's Concorde fleet have been grounded, drained of hydraulic fluid and their airworthiness certificates withdrawn. While still owned by BA and Air France, the fleet is scattered to the four winds, taking up residence at museums and exhibitions around the globe. While hope springs eternal for the day that the dust covers are pulled away and those mighty engines are brought to life once more, former Chief Concorde pilot, Jock Lowe, estimated in 2004 that it would cost up to $25.5m to make Concorde airworthy again.

Even in its dilapidated state, though, Concorde remains an awesome sight and a true icon. A symbol of what once made Britain great; a beacon of risk and endeavour and the epitome of luxury through exclusivity. It was the last technological hurrah of an ailing Empire; the final chapter in the UK’s catalogue of industrial innovations that, for better or worse, changed the world. While that sleek white arrow, with power and purpose, no longer cuts its swathe through the British summer sky, I am grateful that I got to bear witness when it did.

When I remember myself as an awestruck boy watching the sky from his back garden all those years ago, I’m reminded of the poem, High Flight, written by Spitfire pilot John Gillespie Magee, Jr., which I think, despite being written 35 years before Concorde’s first commercial flight, is a fitting manner to finish this reminiscence: “I’ve topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace.

Where never lark, or even eagle flew; And, while with silent, lifting mind I've trod The high untrespassed sanctity of space, I’ve reached out my hand, and touched the face of God." For 27 years, Concorde allowed anyone who could afford it to do just that.

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origins

“ t he on ly t hing t h at does a n y good is t o jum p in a c a b a n d go t o Tiffa n y’s. The quie t ness a n d t he prou d l ook of it ; no t hing v ery ba d could h a ppe n t o you t her e .”

- Au dr ey Hepbu r n Br e ak fa st At Tif fa n y's

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The Little Blue Box It's something which money cannot buy and yet there is little in the world of luxury that is more iconic. “Charles Lewis Tiffany has one thing in stock that you cannot buy off him for as much money as you may offer; he will only give it to you.

And that is one of his boxes,” reported the New York Sun in 1906.

Words: Megan Masterson / James McCarthy Pictures: Tiffany & Co. / Getty

P

ut aside, for a moment, the diamonds, the glamour and the storied legacy of movies and song. The first thing that the imagination conjures up at the mention of the name Tiffany & Co, is the signature Tiffany Blue that wraps the jeweller’s every creation.

One glance at this glorious hue evokes excitement; it is an international symbol of elegance and sophistication.

The colour was selected by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany for the cover of his Blue Book, Tiffany’s annual collection of exquisitely handcrafted jewels, first published in 1845, before being adopted for shopping bags, as well as in advertising and other promotional materials. In the 169 years following its first use, the Tiffany Blue Box has become an icon of luxury and exclusivity.

Tiffany & Co. itself is synonymous with romance, luxury, style, and even New York City itself, thanks in no small part to the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Tourists line up in their droves outside the store’s famous windows at Fifth and 57th Street to have their “Audrey” pictures taken, but Tiffany is so much more than a Blake Edwards movie and a photo op.

For 177 years, it has been the luxurious, coveted backbone of New York’s haute society. It is, after all, America’s first great jeweller, and is as intrinsically linked to the rise of New York City as a glamorous 

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world capital, as it is to the old-money cachet of its devoted clientele, the likes of the Vanderbilts, the Rockerfellers, the Astors and the Whitneys.

in silver hollowware, then flatware and finally jewellery. By 1870, their fledgling company had grown in influence to become America’s jewellery purveyor of choice.

A gi l d e d a g e Back in the 1830s, New York City was filled with golden opportunity for anyone with a little capital and an oversupply of imagination. Twenty-fiveyear-old Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young took a mere $1,000 loan from Tiffany’s father to open a “stationery and fancy goods store” in 1837.

It was during New York’s Gilded Age that Tiffany began to flourish like never before. This period after the Civil War was marked by ostentatious displays of wealth by the city’s billionaires – superrich industrialists and financiers such as John D. Rockefeller and JP Morgan – and prominent families came to the fore as a new American upper class.

The fashionistas of the day travelled through narrow, cobbled streets, bypassing horses and carriages, to discover Tiffany & Co’s emerging “American style,” one that stood entirely apart from the patterns, opulence and Victorian aesthetic of European design.

Throughout the world, Tiffany became renowned as the undisputed leader in the world of jewels. The company’s exhibit at the 1889 Paris fair was heralded as “the most extraordinary collection of jewels ever produced by an American jewellery house”, an honour that was followed by the 1900 fair, where Tiffany debuted a magnificent collection of silver pieces inspired by Native American pottery and basket designs.

The young friends were inspired by nature’s simplicity and clarity, and their early designs became the hallmarks of Tiffany’s design, first

Before long, Tiffany was the Imperial Jeweller and Royal Jeweller to the crowned heads of Europe, the Ottoman Emperor and the Tsar and Tsarina of Russia, cementing its status as the preferred jeweller of the world’s most astute and demanding clientele.

B u i l di n g o n a l e g a c y With the death of founder, Charles Tiffany in 1902, his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, became the company’s first Director of Design, forging his own path with his fertile imagination and fortitude for hard work. Just as his father had created fantastic jewels for the wealthy, Louis set about becoming a leading designer in the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements, creating remarkable works of beauty out of leaded glass, Favrile glass, colourful gemstones and enamel.

This love for working with a multitude of diverse and unexpected materials is of no surprise when discovering that Louis had originally trained as a painter, beginning his career with every intention of becoming an artist.

When the family business inevitably called, Louis swapped his canvas for other forms of creativity, and he turned his hand to designing furniture, lamps, frescoes, candlesticks, bookends and mirrors, giving the public a wide range of beautiful objects that brought luxury to everyday life.

Greatly inspired by nature and his travels as a painter through Europe and North Africa, he amassed a large personal collection of Etruscan, European, Egyptian and Moorish art and artefacts, such as Babylonian and Egyptian necklaces, Benin armbands, gold Spanish and ancient Greek earrings, 17th-century Italian silver and Hindu jewellery, all of which influenced the design details of his many projects.

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A selection of some of the uniquely beautiful jewellery created by Tiffany & Co, including the "1837 wide ring in RUBEDO metal" created to celebrate the company's 175 years.

Opposite page: (top) Tiffany & Co's store on Fifth Avenue circa 1899; (middle)Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in "Breakfst at Tiffany's"; (bottom left) founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany.

This page: (top) a tophatted Charles Lewis Tiffany aged 87 at his Union Square store; (left) Charles Tiffany's son and heir, Louis Comfort Tiffany; (below) Tiffany & Co's flagship Fifth Avenue store, as it looks today.

Louis also created stained-glass windows, glass domes and mosaics for building lobbies, banks, waiting rooms, hospitals, department stores and hotels, forever changing the landscape of impersonal bigcity architecture.

By the time of his death in 1933, he was an internationally acclaimed leader of design, his passion for the beauty of nature and the lure of the exotic resulted in some of the most powerful artistry of the 20th century.

A m e ric a ’ s j e w e l l e r Tiffany & Co’s designs have captured the spirit of each era, translating the extravagance of the 1920s, the modernism of the 1930s and the dynamism of the 1940s and 1950s, into coveted works of art, be they to adorn the neck of a beautiful woman or a suitably sombre men’s club for billionaires.

From President Lincoln and Franklin Roosevelt, to Babe Paley and Diana Vreeland, Tiffany’s clients have called upon the jeweller to commemorate the special moments in their lives. The company’s china sets the stage for every White House dinner, and it is Tiffany that designed the United States’ Congressional Medal of Honour, the country’s highest military award, the Vince Lombardi Trophy for the National Football League Super Bowl Championship, and the 2010 World Series rings for the San Francisco Giants. Even the 1885 redesign of the Great Seal of the United States – which can be found on official government documents and the one-dollar bill – is an achievement of the legendary company.

For almost two centuries, Tiffany has been the ultimate source of gifts for life’s most cherished moments. That signature Blue Box indeed symbolises a rich heritage and an unparalleled reputation. No wonder it is so instantly capable of putting a smile on a woman’s face.

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acc e s so r i e s

Sur la Terre picks some iconic accessories that continue to be timeless statements of status today.

modern classics Omega Speedmaster: Interstellar Luxury

Pictures: Getty / Omega

The Moon landings of the 1960s and 1970s are arguably mankind’s greatest achievement. However, the 12 men who have slipped the surly bonds of earth to lay footprints on an alien surface (and the nine who didn’t) couldn’t have done it without their equipment. The Saturn V rocket, the Lunar Module or the Omega Speedmaster Professional watch.

Yes, the manual winding Speedmaster Professional or "Moonwatch" is perhaps the most iconic of the Swiss company’s catalogue; it was worn during the first American Spacewalk as part of NASA’s Gemini 4 mission and, thanks to Buzz Aldrin, became the first watch worn by an astronaut walking on the moon.

Prior to the Gemini and Apollo programmes, NASA officially solicited bids from several watch brands from Rolex to Hamilton. The Speedmaster, which survived all of the tests while remaining largely accurate, was chosen and to this day is still the only watch qualified by NASA for extra-vehicular activity.

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In 1970, after the ill-fated Apollo 13 was crippled by the rupture of a Service Module oxygen tank, it was Jack Swigert’s Speedmaster that was used to accurately time the critical 14-second Mid-Course Correction burn of the Lunar Lander’s rockets, which allowed for the crew's safe return.

In recognition of this, Omega was awarded the Silver Snoopy Award, one of the rarest and hard to achieve accolades within the space programme, "for dedication, professionalism, and outstanding contributions related to human flight safety or mission success.” The award was presented personally by the astronauts as their own recognition of excellence.

Forty-five years after the final Apollo mission, the Omega Speedmaster professional continues to be used on space missions as well as being a highly coveted watch.

The most recent model in the range is the stunning 45th Anniversary limited edition.

Employing a calibre 1861 manual-winding chronograph movement inside a titanium case with 18-carat red gold elements, Omega will only produce 1,969 models of the timepiece, which comes in a specially created presentation box.

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The Hermès “Kelly”: Amazing Grace The Hermès “Kelly” was first produced in the 1930s, when it was known as the Sac à dépêches. It is one of the first Hermès bags to evolve to make it more suitable for travel by automobile. Smaller and neater than the oft-vaunted “Birkin,” it’s designed to be the ideal day bag: roomy enough to take more than just the essentials, but not so big as to be bulky.

The bag’s name was changed to the “Kelly” in 1956, after ethereal silver screen beauty, Grace Kelly, was pictured carrying the bag at the announcement of her engagement to Prince Rainier III of Monaco. She was using the bag to shield her “baby bump” from the prying eyes of the paparazzi and the resulting photograph, from the same set as the one on this page, appeared on the front cover of Life magazine, thus cementing the bag’s iconic status overnight, while giving Hermès a very influential brand ambassador.

For the remainder of her life, Kelly was rarely seen without some iteration of her eponymous bag, especially during her private engagements. It was, for her, a lifelong travelling companion.

Despite its age, the Kelly’s long-established pedigree means that it still features in Hermès' seasonal runway shows, sometimes changing with times in terms of materials - a recent version featured a smattering of rock 'n' roll studs - but never wavering from the iconic, elegant style.

Pictures: Getty / Hermès

While Grace Kelly added much to its status, Hermès has done its best to preserve the bag's exclusivity through the use of long waiting lists - it can take up to a year to get your hands on one - and amazingly expensive fabrics that can push the price from $4,200 to a stratospheric $17,000.

It takes around 18 hours to make a single Kelly bag, and it's a favourite of many celebrities past and present. If you decide to step out with one of these on your arm, you’ll be in good company, joining the likes of Victoria Beckham, Julia Roberts, Kate Moss, Katie Holmes and Camilla Al Fayed and, of course, the iconic Princess Grace. 

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The Tag Heuer Monaco: A Grand Prize Steve McQueen made many great movies.

He also played his part in making certain products iconic; Bullitt ’s Ford Mustang, The Great Escape ’s Triumph TR6 Trophy motorcycle and, of course, the Tag Heuer Monaco wristwatch in Le Mans.

The 1969 Heuer Monaco was created to celebrate the Monaco Grand Prix and was a revolutionary watch in it’s own right, being the first square-cased automatic chronograph. However, after it was worn by McQueen in the 1971 Hollywood blockbuster, it became synonymous with the actor.

McQueen, who famously wore a Rolex Submariner most of the time, sought the advice of his friend and racing driver, Jo Siffert, to ensure greater accuracy of his portrayal of a racing driver in the film. At McQueen’s request, Siffert lent him his racing suit which was adorned with Gulf Oil’s logo and an embroidered "Chronograph HEUER" crest over the right breast. In order to complete the look, McQueen opted for the newly introduced B model Calibre 12 Monaco, which he wore during filming. Following completion of the movie he gifted it to his financial advisor.

The Monaco was discontinued in the mid-1970s and as such, The McQueen Monaco has become one of the most sought after pieces in the international vintage markets. Only a handful of the original calibre 12 survive, demand far exceeds supply and the actor’s untimely death in 1980 added even more value to the watch.

Even posthumously, McQueen continued to be pictured in Tag Heuer advertising campaigns wearing his Monaco Calibre 12, and, by popular demand, the Monaco was reissued with a new design in 1998. It was reintroduced again with an entirely new movement in 2003, and remained as tied to McQueen as ever, even when it was being worn by British F1 World Champion Lewis Hamilton.

While some of the newer models have a more robust appearance and have changed to reflect current fashion trends, you can still try and garner some McQueen magic by opting for the re-issued Calibre 12, 39mm Automatic Chronograph, reproduced in the same blue colour and style as the original.

Pictures: Getty / Tag Heuer

Sadly, while you won’t suddenly become a better driver and you certainly won’t be able to jump a German POW camp’s fence on a motorbike, you are guaranteed to have the coolestlooking timepiece in the room.

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Chanel 2.55 Bag: From Paris With Love

The design language of the 2.55 bag is steeped in Coco Chanel’s personal life, with motifs heavily influenced by her childhood; the burgundy lining matching the uniforms of the orphanage where she grew up, equally, the strap design is a nod to the orphanage’s caretakers’ key chains. The zippered compartment located inside the front flap is said to resemble the place a young Coco hid love letters in her original bag from the 1920s, upon which the 2.55 is based.

She was also a keen horse rider, and the quilted exterior is said to have been inspired by the padded jackets worn by jockeys of the time, as well as influenced by the stained-glass windows of the abbey at Aubazine and the cushions in her Paris apartment.

When Karl Lagerfeld took over as creative director in 1983 he reissued the bag in its original design but with the addition of a turning “CC” clasp. Since its re-introduction, there have been several variations of the original design including different colour leather and fabric combinations, hardware and stitching pattern.

commemorative handbags, it has become a common moniker for all the handbags which replicate the original 1955 design.

Now, nearly 60 years on, the Chanel 2.55 remains a timeless classic and a keen seller for the fashion house, synonymous as it is with the brand’s founder. Arguably, few handbags styles can claim to be as universally loved and coveted Coco’s iconic creation.

Chanel released an exact copy of the original 2.55 in February 2005 in commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the creation of the original. Though the name “Reissue 2.55” should apply only to those

Pictures: AP / Chanel

Pictures: Getty / Omega

Possibly one of the most important handbags of the 20th century, the Chanel 2.55 - its odd name derived from its debut date in February 1955 - was very much a bag designed for women by fashion’s most influential woman herself. In one fell swoop, Coco Chanel transformed evening bags of the era by simply adding her iconic interwoven leather and metal chain strap, forever freeing women’s hands at high society events.

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fa s h i o n

Fashion Changes but Style Endures T h e Tr e n c h C o a t

Iconic clothing gets the once over.

Intrinsically linked to the morose weather of Britain, Burberry’s trench coat marries pure sartorial style with pragmatism to produce one of the most enduring fashion icons ever created.

This mercurial coat has many layers: the smart overcoat for the well-heeled gentleman, the uniform of the film noir gangster and for the women who wear the coat with stilettos and not a stitch underneath (or are just charmingly sophisticated). It is the hallmark of the debonair, the timeless and truly classy. It goes without saying that it is thoroughly British.

Words: Laura Hamilton

One of the most appealing aspects of the trench are its utilitarian roots; this is no fleeting fashion fad. Developed for British officers during the Great War, the modern, highly functional and practical wardrobe staple still holds the marks of its use in warfare; the shoulder straps for the attachment of rank insignia, D-rings to holding maps, ten buttons and waist and wrist belts. Tying the belt around your waist gives you an enormous feeling of being totally prepared for what lies ahead that day, be it

Emma Stone

Alexa Chung

Images: Burberry

rain or shine, and almost feels like a tribute to the brave soldiers who lost their lives in the so-called “war to end all wars.” The history of the trench coat, however, lies further back in the annals of history when Thomas Burberry patented his water-repellent fabric, gabardine, in 1879. Inspired by the weatherproof smocks worn by 19th century shepherds and farmers, the tightly woven twill weave would prove the perfect apparel for the war, the well-to-do hunting set, as well as famous actors on the silver screen, from Marlene Dietrich to Michael Caine. The trench coat is no relic of the past, however. In the twenty first century, the trench coat has continued to evolve and taken on new iterations, new interpretations, finding new fans amongst the bold and the beautiful. It is the first Burberry trench coat, however, that remains the iconic fixture on the fashion scene, proving that the original is often the best.  burberry.com

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Images: Shutterstock

“It seems t h at t he din ner jack e t e volv ed a s t he mor e pr agm atic v er sion of t he coat a n d ta il s f or l ate nine tee n t h ce n t u ry ge n t leme n.”

T h e D i n n e r J a c k e tW h at ’ s A l l t h e T u x Ab o u t ?

There seems to be a huge amount of confusion as to the difference between a dinner jacket and a tuxedo; it is actually the same item of clothing. A rose by any other name, and all that. Although we can hardly say that the origins of the gentleman’s premier apparel have been lost in the mists of time, the dinner jacket is nevertheless an item of lengthy duration. It seems that the dinner jacket evolved as the more pragmatic version of the coat and tails for late nineteenth century gentlemen, whose daily pursuits of riding, hunting and presumably shouting at each other in parliament required something a little more aerodynamic.

After Queen Victoria’s eldest son, the Prince of Wales, adopted the dinner jacket, as made

by Saville Row legends, Henry Poole & co, it caught on fire (not literally) and the rest of the fashionable world copied.

It is when the dinner jacket was brought over from the UK to make its debut in the States one year later in 1866, that it picked up its new appellation that our American friends refer to it as. James Brown, a millionaire coffee broker and his beautiful wife Cora, had made the acquaintance of the future Edward VII and James picked up his habit of wearing the fangled creation; the dinner jacket. He was a member of a private residential country club established by prominent New Yorkers, called Tuxedo Park, a establishment of some standing amongst the American glitterati. When tongues started wagging about the gentlemen who had adopted the new sharp coat, people merely commented “Oh, that’s what they wear up at Tuxedo,” and thus a new trend, and name were born, and the dinner jacket/tuxedo has been the epitome of stylish dress for over 150 years.

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C o c o C h a n e l’ s Li t t l e B l a c k D r e ss The hugely ambitious and influential Coco Chanel kickstarted modern fashion by her pragmatic attitude to style. Known for her bon mots, Chanel once said that, “Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.” This is something that we here at SLT have taken to heart. Chanel remains as relevant to the fashion world as she did in her heyday in the early 20th century, due to her simple philosophy that luxury should be comfortable; a concept that many still struggle to get their heads around today.

Chic Chanel suits are still in fashion, and suit both the elderly grandmother and the young fashionista,

but it is the little black dress that has been forever entrenched in our fashion lexicon. It is strange to think that in Europe and North America, a black dress was often associated with mourning and bereavement before Chanel liberated it and made it an everyday staple. When she first launched the plain black dress in 1926, it was scandalous and even overlooked by the fashionistas and fashion magazines who were crazy about the frivolous flapper lifestyle. Nicknamed by Vogue as the Chanel “Ford” Dress, as it only came in black, like Ford’s famous Model T, the fashion world made the mistake of thinking that Chanel’s paradigm

shifting creations were boring. However, the dress’ appeal was to prove itself long lasting, much like Chanel’s dedication to style, rather than the revolving door of fashion. Over the next decade, when the Depression hit and ostentatious displays of wealth were no longer in vogue, Chanel’s black crepe de chine, which photographed so sharply on the silver screen, became the uniform of the modern woman, and now there is an LBD in every woman’s wardrobe. Hugely flattering and timeless, as Chanel said herself, “One is never over nor underdressed in a little black dress.”  www.chanel.com

“Some people t hink lu x u ry is t he opposite of pov ert y.

It is no t.

It is t he opposite of v ul ga r it y.”

- Co co C h a n e l Images: Chanel

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H a rris T w e e d Not so much an item of clothing, but rather cloth itself, Harris Tweed is something of a Scottish institution. Hand-made on looms by the local residents of the Outer Hebrides, the brand fiercely protects itself. The pure virgin wool, called Clò Mór (big cloth) in the native tongue of the Islanders, has a longstanding history that withstood the Industrial Revolution, although it was merely twenty years ago that an act of parliament was issued to protect the weavers’ rights. Today, the industry is booming; over a million metres of tweed cloth was produced in 2012.

The cloth itself is very distinctive; made with a twill or herringbone weave on a diagonal slant, of different colours to produce an earthy, heather effect. Tweed jackets have been a staple of landed gentry in mainland Europe for the last hundred years. Durable and water resistant, tweed or “plus fours” were golfing colours back in the day and are now the day-to-day wear of the British Royal Family, who favour a classic style. That’s not to say that Harris Tweed is only popular in the fusty old Windsor family; cinematic icons like James Bond have been known to don a tweed jacket to look dapper while off duty. Harris Tweed has made quite a few appearances in the fashion world, too. While designer houses like Chanel and Hugo Boss have been known to incorporate Harris Tweed into their collections from time to time, surprisingly, the designer with the longest association with the cloth is the controversial punk designers Vivienne Westwood, whose hugely influential Tweed Collection in 1987 was inspired by the Royal Family. harristweed.org

Images: Harris Tweed Authority

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Sarah Jessica Parker

I t ’ s a Wr a p ! D i a n e V o n F u rs t e n b e rg ’ s R is e t o G l o r y Not since Coco Chanel invented the little black dress has there been an item of clothing that changed the way women dress. Diane Von Furstenberg’s wrap dress set the notoriously fickle fashion world talking almost fifty years ago and still remains an icon of modernity; a truly difficult feat in any industry. Back in 1970, Diane Von Furstenberg was just another Belgian princess who had married into royalty and wanted to make something of herself, and 40 years later she is an institution. She arrived in New York with her husband with a suitcase full of dresses she had made in Italy in the early 70s with a keen head for business and a zeal for fashion.

The idea for the wrap dress came in 1975, when she saw Julie Nixon Eisenhower on tv wearing a DvF wrap top with a skirt.

Von Furstenberg had the cunning idea to fuse two of her designs together to create the dress that launched her into household name territory. The wrap dress, which is actually a relatively simple design, similar to that of a toga or kimono, was equally popular amongst the Studio 54 crowd, with whom Von Furstenberg rolled, as the conservative Park Avenue set, proving its versatility as well as its popularity. After relaunching her company back in the late 90s, DvF has gone from strength to strength, and designed

Back in 1970 , Di a ne Von Fu r ste n berg wa s just a no t her Bel gi a n pr incess w ho h a d m a r r ied in t o roya lt y a n d wa n ted t o m a k e some t hing of her self, a n d 40 y e a r s l ater she is a n instit u tion. many more stunning dresses, although the wrap dress remains the most popular.

Images: Diane Von Furstenberg

It’s a deceptively simple construct; two front panels cross over each other, and are tied at the back with fabric cords. The result is, thanks to the silk jersey, a highly durable, immensely flattering and sleek silhouette that accentuates all body types. Indeed, as the original wrap dress (of which there are now many iterations) features long sleeves and a knee length skirt, it’s the closest a woman can get to respectfully venturing outside in her dressing gown. In a word, this dress is beyond comfortable and it gets even better; it’s suitable for both work and play and can easily be dressed up or down. www.dvf.com

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fotoarabia .com

i n m oti o n

Sur la Terre takes to the Tuscan countryside to put the new Ferrari California T through its paces.  Words: James McCarthy Pictures: Ferrari / Lorenzo Marcinnò

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I

t won’t fit. I think it’s too big.”

“I dunno, I think it’ll go. Ease the front in and if it seems a bit tight, just back out.”

“Righto, just let me know if I’m going to do any damage.”

“Ok, just start nice and slowly; don’t go in too hard at first.”

Filled with trepidation, I slowly and deliberately push forward. An impatient growl issues forth from my steed but my movements remain slow and gentle. I realise I am holding my breath and beads of sweat are running down my back. Finally, I release a gasp of relief as I breach the tightest part of the portal with an inch or two to spare and I thrust forward with a little more power.

“Bejeebus that was close!” exclaims Ross, my partner for the day, in his lilting Irish brogue. “Bloody hell, yes!” I concur. “But it was better than having to go around the back. I’m sure it’s only one-way.”

With the narrow archway of the medieval Italian castle’s keep now safely negotiated and happily in my rearview mirror, I ease the new Ferrari California T back out on to the road to rejoin the glorious route through Tuscany that has been carefully planned for us by the folks at Ferrari.

If only the third-party supplier of Ferrari's Sat-Nav systems had been equally diligent, I wouldn’t have come so - literally - close to becoming a semi-permanent and somewhat anachronistic instalment at a site of local historical interest. Fortunately, this is not a gadget magazine, so

“Offering a superior sense of control, when driving and cornering at speed, the California T displays a thrilling adroitness and stellar road-holding.”

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government mandates to reduce CO2 emissions, as well as to tap into an ever-increasing environmental consciousness among elite buyers.

I mean, and let’s be honest now, who’d prefer to see Cameron Diaz driving this than a Prius? I thought so...

reviewing Sat-Nav systems is not our raison d’etre. We’re here for the car, the California T, the latest iteration of the 2+2 GT and the first turbo-charged V8 to leave the Maranello stable since 1987’s legendary square-spoilered F40.

As one would expect from any new Ferrari, there is a plethora of clever new tech under the skin of the California T, quite a bit of it to do with ride comfort and driving dynamics, as well as ensuring that the all-new engine delivers all of the naturally-aspirated performance, but with a twinturbo-charged economy.

And economical it certainly is, boasting a 15 percent better fuel consumption than its predecessor, despite punching out an extra 70 horsepower and 49 percent more torque in seventh gear. Emissions have also been cut to 250g/km, the equivalent of a 20 percent reduction in the car’s CO2/horsepower ratio compared to the outgoing California, thus increasing its range, and, as such, the fun you can have in it between fuel stops.

However, we’re not reviewing a Honda Civic for a cost conscious family, here. It’s still a Ferrari, with all that it entails. There is nothing in the way this car looks, sounds or drives that suggests it has a proclivity for hugging trees, certainly not when you put your foot into the carpet. Don’t get me wrong, this is not a dangly-bits-to-the-wall racer, like the company’s 458 Speciale, it’s very much a Grand Tourer. In fact, when you crunch the numbers it’s a real crowd pleaser.

When the last of the current California model rolled off the production line in May, Ferrari had shipped 10,000 cars - the most of any model in its history. More importantly for Ferrari, it claims that more than 70 percent of California owners are first-time Ferrari buyers that drive their cars 30 percent more, on an annual basis, than owners of other Ferrari models.

They take the car on 50 percent more trips and 65 percent of those are with a passenger.

Given these figures, it’s no surprise why the rationale behind returning to a turbo-charged V8 for the first time in 27 years is rooted in meeting

While I doubt that was even a consideration when Ferrari decided to spend four years developing a new 3.8-litre V8 forced induction engine which does a sterling job of eliminating the stigma attached to the less desirable characteristics of a turbo, while still bringing to the party everything Ferrari buyers expect - such as apocalyptic soundtrack, instant throttle response and progressive acceleration - it’s potentially a very happy outcome.

Either way it has most certainly worked. The California T is an absolute triumph. Perhaps that’s what the “T” should stand for. Not only is it quite beautiful to look at (thanks, again, Pininfarina), the driveability of this car is second to none in its class.

Navigating the small villages on our Tuscan route in automatic is effortless, except for wrong turns and potentially damaging medieval architecture, but, when the roads open up, and the Sat-Nav takes a back seat, that’s when the Cali-T comes into its own.

Ploughing the car into the sweeping corners and threading it along the twisting roads, the first thing I notice is the crispness of the steering, thanks to the short turning distance of the steering wheel lock-to-lock.

Offering a superior sense of control, when driving and cornering at speed, the California T displays a thrilling adroitness and stellar road-holding.

Also, the lack of column stalks, thanks to the adoption of the steering wheel-mounted controls, coupled with the paddles being set closer to, and flush with, the wheel, adds a greater sense of precision, especially when quickly changing gear.

At least, that was once I had deduced where everything was and how it worked - for at least two miles, I had the windscreen wipers pulsing at varying speeds, long after we had beaten a spattering of afternoon rain.

Once I had it mapped out, though, I felt far more immersed in the driving; 

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being able to control everything with my fingertips and my hands firmly on the wheel. My eyes just follow the swooping bonnet as it devours the flowing ribbon of tarmac ahead, while I revel in the joy of the moment.

didn’t have to worry too much about the many drivers, in lesser cars, that felt like taking on the Ferrari, though top marks for effort to the old lady that tried in her Fiat Punto.

The incredibly responsive steering is combined with a seamless sevenspeed F1 dual-clutch transmission, which delivers much longer ratios and, in turn, much faster acceleration. It’s the base recipe for an exhilarating drive. In concert with Ferrari’s clever new Variable Boost Management system, a new control system integrated with the ECU which adjusts torque delivery to suit both the revs and gear engaged, it means that even at the top of seventh, when you plant your foot, the Cali-T can still bolt quicker than the bathroom door of a Satwa curry house. It meant that I

Fortunately for my reputation, and that of the Ferrari, she is dispatched with ease, disappearing into the rearview at a steady 230km/h thanks to a throttle response that's sharper than a mouthful of balsamic vinegar.

With absolutely no hint of turbo lag (that oft-gaping abyss of time between pressing the loud pedal and the boost from the turbo kicking in), the California T feels as much like a naturally aspirated V8 as is technically possible, allaying the mumbled concerns of many of the assembled Middle Eastern press corps at the previous evening’s lengthy technical briefing.

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What’s in a name In 1957, thanks to Ferrari’s reputation in motor sports, and the work of importer Luigi Chinetti, the United States became an important market. John Von Neumann, the west coast representative, thought that there was potential for an open Spider suited to the Californian sun, a sort of open 250 GT Berlinetta.

Chinetti welcomed the proposal and convinced Enzo Ferrari that it was a good idea.

Coachbuilder, Scaglietti, was given the opportunity to create this iconic car, building 106 of them. The popularity of the car among celebrities and film makers earned it the nickname, the “Hollywood Ferrari,” with the car appearing in titles such as The Yellow Rolls-Royce and, much later, Ferris Bueller’s Day Off.

Audibly, yes, upon hard braking and downshifting, you get the hiss of the waste gates mixed in with the usual pops and burbles from the exhaust, but I personally think that rounds out the choir quite nicely, like a good top tenor. Upon acceleration, there is that familiar, surging growl. I tip my hat to the boffins at Maranello for clearly putting as much engineering effort into the visceral audio track of the new block as they did for the performance of it. So much so, that I take immense pleasure in speeding through the short straights, braking hard into the corners and then powering through to the next bend in the road, just to enjoy it over and over again.

In terms of performance, the layman, and even the well-educated enthusiast, would be hard-pressed to tell it was a turbo-charged V8 if they didn’t already know that’s what the “T” actually signifies - and if Ferrari hadn’t mounted a “Turbo Performance Engineer” in the centre of the dash. It’s a touchsensitive digital display to show turbo pressure, turbo efficiency or turbo response. While ultimately, I found it a little bit gimmicky, it did give both Ross and myself a strange sense of achievement to see our efficiency top 100 percent with an hour to spare before we had to hand the car back.

The display also shows the time and the outside temperature, though I’d suggest the best way to work that out is to just drop the roof. It takes a mere 14 seconds to retract completely and, because the California T has a forward mounted engine, it still leaves plenty of room for a bespoke leather Ferrari luggage set in the boot. Unfortunately, your golf clubs will probably have to go on the back seats, though I use the word “seats” very loosely. I think even Peter Dinklage and Warwick Davies would struggle with leg room on a long journey.

And it’s that, I believe, to be the greatest appeal of this car. Yes, the 458 series cars are exciting and fun, while the big V12s offer a powerfully different, yet equally invigorating driving experience.

However, they are fundamentally race cars for the road, while the California T is a road car with a racing pedigree.

In most cases, few people are going to utilise the car’s full 560 Prancing Horses on the way to the golf course, equally they are unlikely to hit its 316km/h top speed heading back from Spinney’s. However, they still want the Ferrari experience; that tingle up the spine when the engine growls to life at a push of the big red button or the sprightly handling on the weekend drive to Hatta. It’s a car to use on the daily commute to work, but one that is capable, in 3.6 seconds, of hitting 100km/h from a standing start. A Ferrari that, with Launch Control, can be away from the lights before the guy in the Land Cruiser behind even touches his steering wheel, let alone gets to sound his horn.

In the front, however, there is space aplenty and you could easily gobble up the miles without feeling that you’ve done so in a super car. It’s an incredibly comfy ride. That said, a couple of times on the outward route to lunch, under heavy acceleration, the car felt a bit squirrelly; wobbling at the back like Kim Kardashian on a treadmill.

I wasn’t the only one to get the full Kanye West experience, either, but at the lunch stop, and after a conversation with the Ferrari guys, the problem was solved by using the rather ingenious “magnetorheological damping system.” Controlled via a button on the steering wheel, it allows the driver to alter the level of ride comfort regardless of the “mode” to which the manettino position is set.

On slightly uneven road surfaces, at speed, in “sport” mode it pretty much eliminated the problem, enabling me to once again drive with a swagger and heroism that only the California T allows with minimum effort or skill on the part of the driver.

It’s a perfect all-rounder, it has the looks, performance and technology, but without the harsh ride and hooliganism of some its less-refined, but equally capable, stablemates.

It’s conservative around town, but by golly, when you find that road...

So, if you’re in the market for a supercar that will make you smile so much your face will hurt, but with a modicum of grown-up, every day practicality to justify spending the best part of $200,000 to your better half, then you’re in luck. That’s the California to a T.

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Time For A Race With his new Calibre De Cartier Diver’s watch, Qatari quad biking sensation and Dakar 2015 hopeful, Mohamed AbuIssa, will have time on his hands come race day.

Words: James McCarthy Pictures: Captial D Studio / Cartier / AbuIssa Racing

T

ime. Its passage governs every aspect of our lives, its onward march is inexorable.

We are slaves to it; for each of us it is both a precious and limited resource.

Mankind has always tried to measure it, master it, evade it, eke it out and has even written books about the brief history of it.

The most important thing about time, though, is that it is relative. For Mohamed AbuIssa it is a critical component of his profession. For him, time is the tyrant that dictates the difference between success and failure.

On New Year’s day, 2015, while you lay, torpid, on the sofa, dozing off the previous night’s excess and wishing the slowly moving day away, Mohamed will be clutching for every second he can, praying for that extra minute, as he races across the arid landscape of a South American desert.

“It’s a massive factor,” he says of his temporal nemesis. “When you are in the heat of competition, there are so many things that can go wrong - your

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“Sometimes you just have to be cautious, but it also means you have to manage your time well.”

machine, your GPS, your body - and the cost will always be time. If you do something wrong, it’s a time penalty; you miss a checkpoint, it’s a time penalty.

Your position in the table is governed by time more than by the power and speed of your bike.”

Like the old saying goes: “More speed, less haste,” is the key to making good times. “Rushing to make up time can breed mistakes,” Mohamed explains.

“You have to be fast, but in the environment in which we are competing, you hit a rock hidden by sand too fast, and there goes your rear axle; you misjudge the height of the next dune, it could be much worse than any mechanical problem.

“Sometimes you just have to be cautious, but it also means you have to manage your time well.”

Fortunately, to make this possible, mankind has learned to trap the fleeting second, the myth of the minute, by giving it physical form in the shape of tiny cogs and gears, often locked in precious cases. As such, Mohamed will have a far greater advantage over the clock the next time he saddles up his quad bike and takes to the arduous Dakar rally routes, thanks to his rugged Calibre De Cartier Diver watch.

With its masculine look, the Calibre De Cartier Diver is clearly capable of dealing with the extreme conditions which it will face as a key component of Mohamed’s Dakar kit. Water-resistant to 300 metres, it means that fjording rivers and water hazards won’t be a problem, while its thick crystal face, screw back, oversized seals and screw-in crown, will ensure that it will remain stoic in the event of an impact.

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The uni-directional bezel turns with 120 notches to enable adjustment to a half-minute, with a clear sound during its rotation. For greater visibility, the markers signalling each 5 minute period are clearly indicated, meaning that, coupled with Cartier’s exquisitely crafted 1904 MC automatic movement, Mohamed can use it to accurately measure the time elapsed between checkpoints, reducing the risk of time penalties between stages.

“I love this watch,” Mohamed explains. “It’s great for everyday use, it looks good with a polo shirt or a suit, but I also know it's robust enough to be a vital tool during the Dakar.

“After all those thousands of gruelling miles, it will no doubt become more than a piece of equipment.

By then, it will have become a loyal team-mate that will, hopefully, be there on that poduim with me at the end of the Dakar 2015.”

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Future modern classics Seasons come and go and trends rise and fall but our wardrobe icons never fade. Sophie Jones-Cooper looks at how these style staples are shaping up for the new season.

F

rom Fendi’s Baguette and Louboutin’s red sole to Audrey’s Hepburn’s little black dress and Marilyn Monroe’s backless flesh coloured rhinestone “Happy Birthday Mr. President” dress, our past is strewn with glittering style icons. Whether women of undisputed style, quintessential wardrobe classics or mesmerising moments in style history, these icons have transcended the changing seasons, improved with age and continue to shape the future of fashion.

While I could easily reel off the top fifty fashion icons of all time or ponder over what makes a true icon of style, with the new AW 14 season fast approaching, what better time is there to look not back into the past, but into the future.

The looks of today, inspired by classic icons, are taking on new guises, and enjoy a fresh and contemporary take on their classic selves.

Staples such as the immortal LBD, the definitive trench and the ubiquitous white shirt have all moved with the times to retain their icon status season after season, and for 2014 have received yet another sartorial spin.

Our iconic lovelies are keeping themselves in the fashion running, competing with the new season entries for that iconic place in our wardrobes and the next chapter of fashion.

Lanvin

It is not only these wardrobe icons that continue to make a comeback, but also the iconic fashion muses of the 60s and 70s who are back with a

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Lanvin

vengeance, again working alongside the new era of model muses. Then there are today’s goto designers, who are the embodiment of such future classics and are shaking, not stirring, the future of style.

intricacy, with additions of lace and organza.

Silhouettes are architectural with oversized shoulders or loose and languid with an air of anonymous masculinity. The shirt itself is only half the battle in pulling off the new look white shirt; it is how you wear your shirt that elevates your style status. Buttoned up to the top, tucked in to your high-waisted lower half, piled high with statement jewels or layered with a deep v neck sweater, are all failsafe ways of ensuring your white shirt is making headway into the future.

Coming in at number one on my list of iconic wardrobe staples has to be the LBD. Need I mention Audrey Hepburn and Breakfast at Tiffany’s? Perhaps it is its chic and versatile wearability that has won it such timeless appeal; it hasn’t become stale or stuck in its ways, but been reinvented season after season in new guises, fabrics, cuts and contrasts. The only mainstay with the LBD has been the colour. For the LBD, black is always the new black.

So what should we be looking for from today’s LBDs? This season’s Unique Selling Point is laser-cut tailoring and rich high shine and high impact fabrics. Flesh revealing cutaway segments, temptress lace inserts and high octane velvet, silk and wild embellishments ooze the rebellious spirit of this season’s LBD. For AW 14, the little black dress is teasing us with its sleek, seductive and utterly feminine charms. Erdem’s black velvet dress with lacy inserts, Tom Ford’s long sleeved opening velvet dress and Lanvin’s intricately adorned evening dresses and femme fatale black leather number, all sum up this new spirited take of such a mainstay icon.

The trench is perhaps the next most iconic of wardrobe staples, and while a classic camel trench will continue to stand the test

Burberry

of time, even the purveyors of the trench, Burberry, are each season reinventing the classic. This time around, Christopher Bailey deconstructed the rigorous classic into a swathe of a material more reminiscent of a wrap or cape than a structured trench.

He adorned the material with watercolours for a modern spin on the classic camel. Aside from this move away from the traditional trench, other designers played with fabric, texture and colour to bring the trench into the future. Go for satin and high-gloss finishes and a longer midi-length to bring your look out of the trenches and into the Twitterscape.

While a simple white shirt might not rank up there as the most daring or bold of icons, it nonetheless deserves its place, as its simplicity, is, in fact, its appeal. The white shirt is accessible to all – a chameleon of style. It can be cool and casual or chic and smart, understated or sexy. Over the years, it has been the woman wearing the shirt and how she wears it that has given it its unique allure. As Marc Jacobs once said, "Clothes mean nothing until someone lives in them."

Who can forget Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman or Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction?

Lanvin

Since those memorable movie moments, the white shirt has graduated from a simple button-up separate and moved into the realm of wardrobe reinvention, brought to us in pioneering new fabrics and new-fangled silhouettes. For AW 14, fabrics are sheer, silky and barely there or given a new dimension of

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Marc by Marc Jacobs

Another simple staple that continues to change with the times is the humble denim jean. From their masculine beginnings, to the bell-bottomed 1960s, the skin tight 80s and boyfriend 90s, jeans never go out of style. “I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant,” Yves Saint Laurent once said. “They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes,” he added.

For AW 14, it is the finer detail that gives jeans their latest expression, from patchwork and quirky embellishment (as seen at Marc

by Marc Jacobs) to quilting, leather trims and studs (biker style is big news). We can no longer sum up denim as simply blue jeans. The iconic fabric once reserved for our trousers, now encompasses dresses, jackets and jumpsuits in every shade from neon brights to whiter than whites. The future of denim really holds no limits. 

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Louis Vuitton

Stella McCartney

As well as reinventing the classics, designers are also reinventing muses. The French have long dominated in the muse department; just look at Jane Birkin and Ines de la Fressange, such iconic faces from the past who return season after season. Ines de la Fressange puts Jane Birkin’s timeless appeal down to dressing for herself. “She’s still rock ‘n’ roll, modern, never ridiculous,” explains Ines. “She feels comfortable in her clothes. It’s not like she dresses up. It’s quite the opposite. It feels like she dresses for herself.” Jane puts it down to her unique style – a mix of British and French.

“I’m not as nicely turned out as the French,” she admits, “but I don’t care like the English.”

modern classics and which has come about thanks to the new breed of designers leading the way in this new “classic meets cool” fashion story.

The Olsen twins, Stella McCartney and Victoria Beckham are all part of this fashion pack, churning out gorgeous, wearable pieces that may look simple, but are impeccably designed using the upmost fabrics and feature lots of quirky intricacies. The result

Following in Jane Birkin’s shoes is her 42-yearold daughter, Charlotte Gainsbourg, who Louis Vuitton has chosen to feature in its latest AW 14 campaign. Other faces from the past are back this season, including 43-year-old Claudia Schiffer, who is working her magic in Dolce & Gabbana’s campaign, and 49-year-old Linda Evangelista for Moschino.

With the new generation of muses, the likes of Cara Delevigne, Suki Waterhouse and Alexa Chung, who has won British Style Icon three years running at the British Fashion Council Awards, the new modern muse is effortless, simple and even a little androgynous: a look which is certainly an influence for our future

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Victoria Beckham

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Versace

is reinvented wardrobe classics for the contemporary woman. It’s the kind of woman that Victoria Beckham had in mind when designing her AW 14 collection, which she describes as an “embodiment of a modern and sophisticated spirit.”

“Silhouettes are long and lean but remain fluid,” explains Victoria, “while the three dimensionality of each look plays a key role in defining how I believe my customer feels and wants to dress,” she adds.

Stella McCartney’s modern slick trouser suits and chunky pyjama style pants, and the Olsen’s luxurious yet effortless autumn separates sum up this new mood of casual laidback luxe. For AW 14, the designers have embraced striking contemporary silhouettes, with sleek and elegant lines and often-oversized proportions, and worked with new and innovative fabrics, together honing an elegant yet anonymous and effortless minimalism, a subtle style statement in itself. Our future modern classics look set to win their iconic appeal through their understated approach. A glossy laser cut LBD, a satin trench, a sheer white shirt and embellished denims are all vying for our attention and their place in the pantheon.

Only time will tell. As Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani puts it so eloquently, "Elegance is not standing out, but being remembered."

LOO K BOO K

seek the sleek

Unite sports inspired luxe, sheer and silky fabrics and a louche laidback silhouette for a sublime summer style.

TOP TIP:

When it comes to trousers think high waisted and drawstring and cropped and tapered, for the ultimate blend of street and chic.

TROUSERS DKNY at Net-A-Porter.com, TROUSERS Joseph at Net-A-Porter.com, JUMPSUIT Burberry Brit at Net-A-Porter.com, JUMPSUIT MICHAEL Michael Kors at Net-A-Porter, TROUSERS Marks & Spencer, TROUSERS CLU at Net-A-Porter.com, SKIRT Hobbs, com, CAPE Marks & Spencer, BLOUSE By Malene Birger at Net-A-Porter.com, BLOUSE Lanvin at Net-A-Porter.com, BLOUSE Joseph at Net-A-Porter.com, TOP Marks & Spencer, TOP Roberto Cavalli at Net-A-Porter.com.

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CATWALK MOMENT:

Burberry Prorsum teams a sleek skirt with a barely there blouse and long coat while Salvatore Ferragamo opts for cropped trousera, a sheer top and cropped jacket.

GEOMETRY CLASS Dizzy up your style with bold graphic patterns and small-scale prints.

Image courtesy of Topman

SHIRT Maison Martin Margiela at Mr.Porter.com, SHIRT Marc by Marc Jacobs at Mr.Porter. com, TSHIRT Neil Barrett at Mr.Porter.com, TSHIRT Balenciaga at Mr.Porter.com, SHIRT Sandro at Mr.Porter.com, JACKET Bench at House of Fraser, SHIRT Farah Vintage at House of Fraser, TSHIRT Topman, JEANS Balenciaga at Mr.Porter.com, TROUSERS Neil Barrett at Mr.Porter.com, TROUSERS Rick Owen at Mr.Porter.com, TRAINERS Converse at Mr.Porter. com, SUNGLASSES Topman.

TOP TIP: Give your print maximum exposure by paring down your lower half. Go for slim fitting, tapered and black trousers.

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BEAUTY

Amouage Creative Director, Christopher Chong

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The Alchemist One of the most iconic luxury brands to emerge from the Middle East is Amouage, a fragrance house that is on the cutting edge.

Words: Laura Hamilton

For the past 33 years, amouage has been at the forefront of Arabian perfume, forging a path for itself, combining aspects of the traditional and yet at the vanguard to create something truly unique. Creating finely blended perfumes from the highest qualities and the rarest ingredients, it would be remiss to think that Amouage merely makes oud. Based in the Sultanate of Oman, Amouage is a niche brand, one that may not be quite a household name, but for anyone who knows anything about scent, Amouage is ranked not only amongst the best, but also as the most unusual.

Like all longstanding luxury maisons, there are dips and peaks, but things really started taking off for the brand in 2006, when CEO David Crickmore and Creative Director Christopher Chong teamed up and brought Amouage into the 21st century. Since then, Amouage has gone from height to height, with Chong’s vision steering the brand into uncharted waters.

“We are an international luxury fragrance brand,” explained Crickmore. “With long lasting and innovative fragrances that pay tribute to the art of fine perfume making. Our fragrances sing and tell a different story with creative integrity.” Amouage is unlike any other perfume brand; Crickmore’s emphasis on creative integrity is very telling. Amouage doesn’t employ a famous face to sell the perfume, nor does it rely on advertising. Amouage is beyond being fashionable (for everything that is fashionable eventually becomes unfashionable), it is a status-affirming luxury brand. 

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Amouage is beyond being fashionable (for everything that is fashionable eventually becomes unfashionable)

The latest offering is Journey, influenced by early 20th century Chinese films and Shanghai Deco: Chong’s heritage. Instead of drawing his inspiration from trends and his unique perception of the world, Chong decided to go back to the drawing board and look into the past. Journey is an amalgamation of all of Chong’s experiences; in fact, you could say that Journey is Chong distilled into a bottle. Amouage is a truly international brand; while it encapsulates the Omani tradition of perfume (Oman is one of the only places in the world that grows Frankinescence), fused through the eclectic brilliance of Chong and his team of artisanal perfumers, Journey is a many layered scent. Journey for Man opens with spicy Sichuan pepper, Bergamot, green cardamom and neroli bigarade; dark and exciting, whereas Journey for Woman is a lighter affair. Osmanthus, apricot, jasmine tea and nutmeg swirl around the heart of the fragrance, which is a floral trinity of jasmine sambac, freesia and mimosa, blended with honey and cedar wood. It is the unusual combination of scents that make the enigmatic fragrances that will have everyone in your wake sniffing the air trying to figure out what that amazing, but unique, scent could be. The fragrances Chong creates are mercurial and alive; as soon as it hits your skin, it seems to magically transform to suit your personality.

What makes Amouage truly iconic, however, is the distinctive shape of its bottles. The caps are plated in 24 carat gold and accented with crimson Swarovski crystals, the Oriental red radial patterns inspired by a compass. A line of Amouage bottles on your dressers gives you an air of a seasoned traveller with distinct and selective tastes. After all, Amouage creates perfumes that are often an acquired taste; caviar isn’t for everyone.

Amouage, which means waves of emotions, from the Arabic word “amwaj,” has grown to encompass bath, home and leather goods, as well as fragrances. Amouage’s main portfolio boasts 28 fragrances, of which Journey is the most recent. The Library Collection is comprised of eight perfumes, each of which is a numbered opus, created to celebrate the mastery of olfactory creation and are considered works of art in their own right.

Slowly but surely, Amouage is rolling out standalone shops and so far has 17 in the UK, Oman, the UAE, Saudi Arabia and Bahrain, amongst others, and can be found in all the biggest and best department stores, from Harrods to Bergdorf Goodman. www.amouage.com

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M AR K ETPLACE

WelcomE

to the SLT Marketplace.

a go-to guide

to the hot products that are available in the regional market now.

Arnold & Son Time Pyramid watch, available in Doha through Ali Bin Ali; in Kuwait at Tiara Jewellery; in Bahrain at Asia Jewellers and in Arnold & Son boutiques across the UAE.

S.T. Dupont Blazon collection of Lighters & pens, available in Doha through Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewellery.

Lanc么me R茅nergie French Lift, available at all Salam and 4U retail boutiques.

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Nada G Malak collection ring, exclusively available in Doha at Fifty One East in Lagoona Mall.

French Lavender & Honey Eau de Parfum, available at Bath and Body Works stores region-wide.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle World Time watch - Limited Edition with Doha time zone, available in Qatar through Alfardan Jewellery.

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Boucheron Serpent Boheme yellow gold watch and bracelet, available through Boucheron boutiques region-wide and through Fifty One East in Doha.

. sur la terre . marketplace .

M AR K ETPLACE

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, available at Fifty One East in Doha and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the UAE.

Marin table lamp, available from T he One stores region-wide.

AIGNER's Cybill Bag, winner of “Best Handbag of the year in Dubai,” available at Aigner boutiques regionwide and at Blue Salon in Qatar.

. sur la terre . marketplace .

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Delsey Monceau Wheeled Duffle, available in Doha at Salam stores and Qatar Duty Free.

Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. watch, available in Doha through Alfardan Jewellery.

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Agent Provocateur Fatale, available at all Salam and 4U retail boutiques.

. sur la terre . marketplace .

Uterque shopper bag with a metallic handle, available at Uterque stores accross the region.

Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel, available at Clinique counters across the Middle East.

Graham Chronofighter oversize golden dune limited edition, available through Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewellery in Qatar and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the UAE.

Guerlain L’Homme Ideal, available at all Salam and 4U retail boutiques.

. sur la terre . marketplace .

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DETAILS Director of Publications Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com General Manager Joe Marritt j.marritt@firefly-me.com

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Senior Editor Steven Paugh s.paugh@firefly-me.com Deputy Editor Laura Hamilton l.hamilton@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper s.jones-cooper@firefly-me.com

FEELING BLUE?

From Steve McQueen's Tag Heuer to Grace Kelly's Hermès bag, SLT looks at truly timeless elegance

- Photography Herbert Villadelrey Lorenzo Marcinnò Dennis Gooch

GREAT BRITON SLT spends an afternoon with British style icon Jeremy Hackett

ARABIA

CLASSIC COCO FROM THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS TO THE ICONIC 2.55 CLUTCH BAG, SLT CHANNELS THE BEST OF CHANEL

GREAT BRITON Sur la Terre picks up sartorial tips from British style icon Jeremy Hackett

ICONS OF LUXURY From Grace Kelly's Hermès bag, to Harris Tweed's traditional style, we take a look at truly timeless elegance

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FLIGHT OF FANCY SLT charts the rise and fall of a Titan of luxury travel: Concorde

n. 33 From Steve McQueen's Tag Heuer to Coco Chanel's LBD, we take a look at

ICONS OF LUXURY

JEREMY HACKETT

SUR LA TERRE GETS SARTORIAL TIPS FROM A BRITISH STYLE ICON

FLIGHT OF FANCY SLT charts the rise and fall of a Titan of luxury travel: Concorde

T-TIME We take the new Ferrari California T for a spin around Tuscany

- Printing & Distribution Distribution Manager Azqa Haroon a.haroon@firefly-me.com Logistics Manager Joseph Isaac j.issac@firefly-me.com

T-TIME We put the new Ferrari California T through its paces in Italy

n. 33

SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 33 > PRE-FALL 2014

Sales Coordinator Masha Ivanova m.ivanova@firefly-me.com

THE ALCHEMIST Christopher Chong talks to SLT about his Journey with Oman's olfactory icon, Amouage

From Buzz Aldrin's Omega to Diane Von Furstenberg's Wrap Dress, we take a look at truly timeless elegance

SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 33 > PRE-FALL 2014

Area Manager, UAE Roger Cousin r.cousin@firefly-me.com

DISCOVER YOUR INNER AUDREY AND DELVE INTO THE HISTORY OF TIFFANY & CO AND ITS ICONIC LITTLE BLUE BOX

ICONS OF LUXURY

- International Sales International Sales Director Julia Toon j.toon@firefly-me.com +974 6688 0228 - Sales & Marketing Area Manager, Doha Chirine Halabi c.halabi@firefly-me.com

n. 33

ARABIA

SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 33 > PRE-FALL 2014

Production Coordinator Ron Baron

n. 33

ICONS OF LUXURY

SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 33 > PRE-FALL 2014

- Art & Design Art Direction Helen Louise Carter

ARABIA

Cover Images : Steve McQueen from the film Le Mans (getty); Audrey Hepburn from the film Breakfast At Tiffany's (Getty); Coco Chanel by M an R ay (Chanel); and Jeremy H ackett (H ackett London)

© 2014 Sur la Terre (SLT) is published bi-monthly by Firefly Communications. All material

is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is prohibited. All content is believed to be factual at the time of going to print, and contributors’ views are their own derived opinions and not necessarily that of Firefly Communications or SLT. No responsibility or liability is accepted by the publishers or editorial staff for any loss to any individual or company, legally, financially or physically, as a result of any statement, fact, figure or expression of opinion or belief appearing in SLT. The publisher does not officially endorse any advertising or advertorial content for third party products. Photography and image credits, where not otherwise stated, are those of Getty/Gallo Images and/or Shutterstock or iStock Photo and/or Firefly Communications, each of which retains their individual copyrights.

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