TREND REPORT
“NO LONGER OPPRESSED”
By Caitlin Anderson
CONTENTS PAGE Page 1-2 - Abstract
Page 3-4 - Trend Cartogram
Page 5-6 - Trend Innovators
Page 7-8 - Trend Drivers
Page 9-10 - Current Impacts
Page 11-12 - The Consequences
Page 13-14 - The Future
Page 15-16 - Conclusion
Page 17 - 21 - Reference & Figures list
ABSTRACT Over the years society is becoming increasingly more accepting towards different sexualities. Same sex marriage became legal after midnight on the 29th of March 2014 (BBC, 2015). ‘More then 15,000 same sex marriages have taken place (since this) in England and Wales’ (BBC, 2015), this shows what a big lifestyle shift we have seen. Same sex relationships are on the rise and therefore, the traditional family orientation is becoming completely different with children having a range of different family structures,
Figure 1
as of yet some couples do not have the ability to create completely biological children. With different sexualities becoming accepted the importance of gender named facilities and holidays are being reconsidered. The new trend is called “No Longer Oppressed” a lifestyle where society is no longer made to feel like you have to be a certain way. Throughout the course of this report, it will indicate the trend innovators, drivers, impacts, consequences and ultimately the future of the trend.
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trend cartogram
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trend Innovators Innovators for the trend are a mixture of wellknown figures and ordinary people; Grayson Perry is a comedian who crosses dresses. He uses his skill of art to tackle subjects such as gender, social status and sexuality (Miro, 2015). He has done a documentary that explores how masculinity shapes men’s lives and expectations, exposing the struggles that he has faced. Caitlyn Jenner is another innovator; she transitioned in the public eye and has documented this stage in her life through a reality TV show called “I am Cait�. This provides exposure for the trans community as the show follows her journey, showing vital parts of transitioning such as telling family and friends along with meeting with other trans groups. The
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show is used as a tool for creating awareness within the public; Caitlyn is seen as voice for the transgender community. Tim Cook, unlike the first two innovators is less of a celebrity; he is a businessman and the first CEO to be openly gay. He is CEO of Apple, which has given his sexuality a lot of media coverage and interest, being an inspiration for all people in the work place who feel they cannot be who they are. India Willoughby is the first transgender newsreader, she told her story on ITVs popular show Loose Woman. The final innovators are Sarah Morris and Majella Bushe who are ordinary people leading an openly gay lifestyle. Each chosen innovator represents something different, from sexuality to the lifestyle they lead.
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trend drivers
Figure 6 Figure 8
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Candy and Time magazine are two drivers of the trend, James Franco was featured on the cover of Candy magazine dressed as a woman; Terry Richardson photographed him. Time magazine featured two covers of same sex couples intimately kissing; both magazines used images that viewers would not expect. Lady Gaga is another driver of the trend as she has dressed up as a man on multiple occasions, she first appeared as a man in Japans Vogue Hommes and then most recently on the cover of her single You and I. Lady Gaga also dressed as a man representing her You and I cover for the MTV VMAs where she shocked fans (LBT, 2011). Whilst getting into role, she attempted to kiss Britney Spears. Same love by Macklemore and Ryan Lewis has been included as a driver of the trend, music is driving sexuality acceptance, ‘Same Love’ was released in 2012 featuring a gay couple getting married. Same sex marriage only became legal in 2014; music is a way to express opinions and be a voice for communities. Brand 69 is one of the most important drivers of 8
“No Longer Oppressed” as clothing has always been something that defines you as a person, in history clothing determined status within the sexes. As stated by Selfridge’s creative director Linda Hewson, Agender is about “tapping into a mindset and acknowledging and responding to a cultural shift that is happening now” (Rumsey, 2015). LA based brand ‘69’ takes this on board being a “non-gender, non-demographic clothing line” (Mar, 2016). They create denim products for everyone; designers at the label are kept anonymous as they think identity should not be important. An anonymous designer quoted, “we manifest certain characteristics about strangers” (Bellizzi, 2014). Public figures such as Charlize Theron have been leading the way as a driver of this trend; Theron caused controversy after letting her son dress up as Elsa from the movie Frozen (Hilton, 2016). Each driver is pushing the trend, acting as inspiration for those struggling with their sexuality and giving them confidence to be themselves.
Current impact A main current impact that is occurring in the trend is the use of surrogacy and sperm donors, same sex couples are unable to have completely biological children and therefore need the help of another external person. The demand for surrogacy has increased with the acceptance of same sex couples having children rising. There have always been a larger number of female couples having children but the recent acceptance has shown a rise in male couples desiring biological children instead of adopting and therefore they need a surrogate mother (Lyderson, 2013). A new sexuality called “Pansexual” is emerging; this is defined as “a group, which is open to members of all sexual orientations or gender identities including straight, gay, lesbian, bisexual, transsexual or transvestite” (Urban Dictionary, 2016). They are attracted to someone with no interest
in what sexuality they are, gender is irrelevant. A huge driver of the trend is LGBT, an organization that is recognized world wide, known for its support groups. There is a LGBT society at Leeds University Union, which states on its webpage that it is “here for all LGBT+ students” (Leeds union, N.D) offering ‘coffee hour’ every weekday in the student union for those who need someone to have a chat to. Campaigns such as the ‘it gets better project’ are an important impact of the trend, the campaign aims to communicate to the LGBT youth around the world that it gets better. 86 percent of LGBT youth have been bullied at school (No bullying, 2016). Dan Savage and his partner Terry Miller launched the project in 2010 through a YouTube video; they hope to provide “hope for the youth who are facing harassment towards their sexuality” (It gets better project, N.D). Figure 10
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the consequences Same sex marriage is a consequence of the trend with society no longer being oppressed and able to marry whom they like legally. Leading on from this there are a lot of legal issues surrounding surrogacy and sperm donning, which leads onto a consequence of the trend. With an increase in same sex couple wanting to have children there are legal issues becoming apparent, surrogacy is a complicated process with laws and regulations to be followed. Contracts have to be written up between the surrogate mother and parents, some surrogate mother agencies make it mandatory that the mother has young children of their own to ensure that “they don’t feel jealousy in turning the newborn over” (Lyderson, 2013). In “2013 a surrogate mother refused $10,000 offered by supposed parents to abort the baby”. This was due to the baby having brain and heart defects, the intended parents gave up their parental rights to the child and the baby was given to a anonymous family (Pascual, 2015). Recent data indicates that only 19% of homes are made up of the traditional family such as a mum, dad and children (Chahinian, 2014). With this decline, gendered holidays such as Figure 11
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Mothers and Fathers day are being reconsidered as these two days are made so important making it hard for a child who may only have one parent or two of the same sex. Gender Neutral toilets are another consequence of the trend, a simple necessity like toilets are moving with the lifestyle shift, unisex toilets are being opened across the country. This will have a huge impact as those who are trans gender and non-binary struggle to know what toilets to use; going to the toilet is made the centre of their day with anxiety being formed (Sanghani, 2015). Along with the Leeds University Union upgrades you can find unisex toilets, which have been installed. A final consequence of the trend are protests, an example of this can be found from the protests that took place two days before the winter Olympic games held in Russia in 2014. Russia implemented laws to criminalize any “detonations of ones distorted sexual preference in public areas” (O’Toole, 2015). The protestors wanted sponsors of the event such as coco cola and Samsung to speak out against the new laws. Protests took place all over the world showing everyone coming together to fight for the rights of LGBT everywhere. Figure 12
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the future Figure 13
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Looking to the future of the trend, a change in relationships means a change in the family structure. Same sex marriage is on the rise with straight marriage on the decline, young people get married later and the number of unwed mothers is rising. The next generation wants to retain their youth putting of adult duties (Thompson, 2013). Some blame the acceptance of same marriage for this decline; with the traditional family being taking away, we are redefining marriage (Schumm, 2015). New methods for having children are being developed such as IVG; this is a process that makes “sperm cells from egg cells or egg cells from sperm cells without the use of embryos” (King, 2016). With this new technology those who are asexual could create sperm and egg cells from themselves and have a baby without needing another person, there is also the opportunity with IVG for ‘Multiplex parenting’ with the child carrying genes from more than two parents. This will lead onto a completely new lifestyle with relationships incorporating more than two individuals with the ability to have children together (Waghorn, 2015). With the change in what represents family simple things like a family ticket for the cinema or funfair will change, things like this will need to become more flexible to suit the wide range of family structures. The future of designing clothes is also going to be developed with a demand for women’s clothes to fit men and men’s clothes to fit women, having specific companies who cater for the cross dressing community is not going to satisfy the consumer in the future. The bigger the demand the bigger the market is, which designers will want to meet. Unisex changing rooms are a future for this trend, like toilets, going to try on clothes is something that causes anxiety for those who want to wear products meant for the opposite sex. In a store you find different changing rooms for male and females, they are always positioned near to the clothing of the particular gender.
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CONCLUSION “No Longer Oppressed” has a target market of those that are LGBT, middle aged and both female and male. The target market aims to lead a lifestyle that is not oppressed by the demands of what society regards as being normal. The consumer who would engage with this trend has a desire to have children of their own and does not hide their sexuality, they are confident and want to make a difference for the LGBT community. They are part of local groups such as the LGBT Leeds, attending events to support fellow members passing on the message to the millennial that it does get better; they are leading the way to an open lifestyle, which is “No Longer Oppressed”.
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Reference list: BBC, 2015. Gay Marriage. [Internet] Accessed: 11/13/16. Available from: http://www.bbc. co.uk/news/uk-34580793
Bellizzi, M. 2014. 69 loves denim. [Internet] Accessed: 12/5/16. Available from: http://www. vice.com/read/69-loves-denim-like-we-loveto-69
Chahinian, H. 2014. Mothers and farthers day. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http://www.latimes.com/opinion/opinion-la/laol-fathers-day-gay-rights-parents-day-story.html Hattenstone, S. 2014. Grayson Perry interview. [Internet] Accessed: 11/30/16. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2014/oct/04/grayson-perry-dress-trannyart-who-are-you-tv
Hilton, P. Charlize Theron causes controversy. [Internet] Accessed: 12/5/16. Available from: http://perezhilton.com/2016-08-25-charlizetheron-son-dress-up-elsa-frozen-twitter-controversy#.WEVJlLQVzzI IBT, 2011. Lady gaga shocks fans dressed as a man at the VMAs. [Internet] Accessed: 12/5/16. Available from: http://www.ibtimes.com/ladygaga-shocks-fans-dressed-dude-mtv-vmas-photos-708342
It gets better project, N.D. About. [Internet] Accessed: 12/5/16. Available from: http://www. itgetsbetter.org/pages/about-it-gets-better-project/
King, E. 2016. New reproductive technology. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: https://www.fatherly.com/parenting-and-relationships/ivg-is-the-new-reproductive-technology-for-same-sex-procreation/ Leeds University Student Union LGBT, N.D. LGBT Society. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: https://www.luu.org.uk/groups/lgbt/
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Lopez, G. 2015. Rise in people coming out on Facebook. [Internet] Accessed: 11/24/16. Available from: http://www.vox. com/2015/10/16/9551901/facebook-comingout-day
Lyderson, K. 2013. Same sex children. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http:// www.chicagobusiness.com/article/20130202/ ISSUE03/302029981/make-room-for-daddiessurrogate-demand-grows
Mar, G. 2016. Gender Neutral brands. [Internet] Accessed: 11/9/16. Available from: http://www. themetropolist.com/style-shopping/style-latest/5-gender-neutral-brands-that-are-defyingthe-fashion-industry/ Miro, Victoria. 2015. Grayson Perry art work. [Internet] Accessed: 11/30/16. Available from: http://www.victoria-miro.com/artists/12-grayson-perry/
No Bulling, 2016. LGBT Bullying statistics. [Internet] Accessed: 12/5/16. Available from: https:// nobullying.com/lgbt-bullying-statistics/ O’Toole, M. 2015. Russia rules. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http://www. pinknews.co.uk/2015/11/06/russia-wants-toexpand-anti-gay-law-to-ban-all-public-homosexuality/
Power, J. 2016. Same sex couples and their children. [Internet] Accessed: 11/13/16. Available from: http://theconversation.com/same-sex-couples-and-their-children-what-does-the-evidencetell-us-55565 Sanghani, R. 2015. Unisex toilets. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http://www. telegraph.co.uk/women/life/why-the-uk-shouldditch-male-and-female-toilets-for-gender-neutr/ Schumm, W. 2015. Redefining marriage. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http:// www.thepublicdiscourse.com/2015/04/14885/
Social times, 2015. LGBTQ social influencers. [Internet] Accessed: 11/16/16. Available from: http://www.adweek.com/socialtimes/lgbtq-social-influencers/631277
Stylist, 2016. Cross Dressing stars. [Internet] Accessed: 11/9/16. Available from: http://www. stylist.co.uk/people/cross-dressing-stars
Theunissen, M. 2014. Gay couples marry. [Internet] Accessed: 11/13/16. Available from: http:// www.nzherald.co.nz/lifestyle/news/article. cfm?c_id=6&objectid=11197176
Thompson, D. 2013. Rise of gay marriage and decline of straight marriage. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http://www.theatlantic. com/business/archive/2013/04/the-rise-of-gaymarriage-and-the-decline-of-straight-marriagewheres-the-link/274665/ Urban Dictionary, 2016. Pansexual definition. [Internet] Accessed: 11/13/16. Available from: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define. php?term=pansexual
Waghorn, M. 2015. Gay couples carrying their own children. [Internet] Accessed: 12/4/16. Available from: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/ uk-news/gay-couples-could-biological-children-7033918 Reports:
Rumsey, A. 2015. Gender-Neutral Retail – does it have a future? [Report] Accessed: 12/7/16. Available from: WGSN Documentaries:
BBC, 2013. Grayson Perry. [Documentary] Accessed: 11/9/16. Available from: http://www. bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sj965 Figures list:
Figure 1 – Venus Plus X, N.D. Sexual Freedom logo. [Internet] Accessed: 12/7/16. Available from: http://venusplusx.org
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Figure 2 – Slater, E. 2014. Sexuality holding hands. [Internet] Accessed: 12/7/16. Available from: http://velvetscrapbook.blogspot.co.uk Figure 3 – Hutchinson, C. 2014. Grayson Perry in York. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.yorkpress.co.uk/ news/11218100.Grayson_Perry_visits_York_for_ an_evening_of_teddy_bear_themed_events/
Figure 4 – Norman, G. 2014. Tim proud to be gay. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http://www.findmysoft.com/news/Tim-CookComes-Out-of-the-Closet-Says-He-s-Proud-to-BeGay/ Figure 5 - Leibovitz, A. 2015. Caitlyn Jenner interview. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2015/06/caitlyn-jenner-photos-interview-buzz-bissinger Figure 6 – Mirkinson, J. 2013. Times cover, gay marriage already won. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/28/time-gay-marriagecover_n_2970561.html
Figure 7 – Fagan, C. 2012. James Franco on Candy Magazine. [Internet] Accessed: 11/16/16. Available from: http://thoughtcatalog.com/chelsea-fagan/2012/08/10-frustrating-gender-myths/ Figure 8 - Heinrich, E. 2016. 69 clothing brand. [Internet] Accessed: 11/16/16. Available from: http://impakter.com/69-clothing-a-nondemographic-brand/
Figure 9 - 2 views mag, 2016. LGBT. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http:// www.2viewsmag.co.uk/creative/croydons-lgbtyouth-create-a-film-in-a-day-to-help-bridge-thegap/ Figure 10 - Wikipedia, 2016. Pansexual flag. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pansexuality
Figure 11 – Gayashville, N.D. Gay couple getting married. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://www.gayashevillenc.com/gay-marriage.html Figure 12 - Mitchell, M. 2016. Freedom of religion is not freedom to discriminate. [Internet] Accessed:11/23/16. Available from: http:// europe.newsweek.com/how-christian-universities-are-becoming-battleground-lgbt-rights-422354?rm=eu
Figure 13 – National wax museum, N.D. Family ticket. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://shop.waxmuseumplus.ie/collections/tickets
Figure 14 – Thompson, D. 2013. Rise of gay marriage and fall of straight marriage. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://www. theatlantic.com/business/archive/2013/04/therise-of-gay-marriage-and-the-decline-of-straightmarriage-wheres-the-link/274665/ Figure 15 - Thompson, D. 2013. Rise of gay marriage and fall of straight marriage. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://www. theatlantic.com/business/archive/2013/04/therise-of-gay-marriage-and-the-decline-of-straightmarriage-wheres-the-link/274665/ Figure 16 – Cross dress boutique, N.D. Boutique banner. [Internet] Accessed: 12/7/16. Available from: http://www.crossdressboutique.com
Figure 17 – Etrafika, 2016. Lgbt female and male symbols. [Internet] Accessed: 12/7/16. Available from: http://www.etrafika.net/drustvo/49882/ ladice-unutar-lgbttiq-svijeta/ Cartogram figure list:
Figure 1 – Hutchinson, C. 2014. Grayson Perry in York. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.yorkpress.co.uk/ news/11218100.Grayson_Perry_visits_York_for_ an_evening_of_teddy_bear_themed_events/
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Figure 2 – Glamour, 2009. Grayson Perry arts exhibition outfit. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/news/ celebrity/pictures/2009/06/04/grayson-perry-at-the-royal-academy-of-arts-summer-exhibition
Figure 3 – O’neill, G. 2015. Caitylin Jenner without a K. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.elle.com.au/news/celebrity-news/2015/6/why-caitlyn-jenner-isnt-kaitlynjenner/ Figure 4 – Leibovitz, A. 201Figure 5 – Jeeves, P. India Willoughby. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://www.express.co.uk/ news/uk/717135/India-willoughby-transgender-itv-news
Figure 5 - Caitlyn Jenner interview. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www. vanityfair.com/hollywood/2015/06/caitlyn-jenner-photos-interview-buzz-bissinger Figure 6 – Loose women, 2016. India Willoughby. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://www.itv.com/loosewomen/presenters/ exclusive-uks-first-transgender-tv-newsreaderindia-willoughby-there-was-only-50-of-me-thatwas-actually-alive
Figure 7 – Ians, 2016. Apple to expand operations. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/ Technology/2016-08-17/Apple-to-expand-operations-in-China-with-new-research-development-facility/248906 Figure 8- Norman, G. 2014. Tim proud to be gay. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http://www.findmysoft.com/news/Tim-CookComes-Out-of-the-Closet-Says-He-s-Proud-to-BeGay/
Figure 9 - Fagan, C. 2012. James Franco on Candy Magazine. [Internet] Accessed: 11/16/16. Available from: http://thoughtcatalog.com/chelsea-fagan/2012/08/10-frustrating-gender-myths/
Figure 10 - Cooper, L. 2011. Lady Gaga You and I cover. [Internet] Accessed: 11/16/16. Available from: http://www.nme.com/news/music/lady-gaga-385-1274426 Figure 11 – Mirkinson, J. 2013. Times cover, gay marriage already won. [Internet] Accessed: 11/17/16. Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/28/time-gay-marriagecover_n_2970561.html
Figure 12 – Heinrich, E. 2016. 69 clothing brand. [Internet] Accessed: 11/16/16. Available from: http://impakter.com/69-clothing-a-nondemographic-brand/
Figure 13 – Youtube, 2012. Macklemore same love. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlVBg7_08n0
Figure 14 – Hilton, P. 2016. Boy dresses up as Elsa from frozen. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://perezhilton.com/2016-08-25charlize-theron-son-dress-up-elsa-frozen-twittercontroversy#.WEBxObQVzzI Figure 15 – LGBT, 2016. Trans banner. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http://lgbt. foundation Figure 16 – 2 views mag, 2016. LGBT. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http:// www.2viewsmag.co.uk/creative/croydons-lgbtyouth-create-a-film-in-a-day-to-help-bridge-thegap/ Figure 17 – LUU, 2016. LGBT society. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: https:// www.luu.org.uk/groups/lgbt/
Figure 18 – YTNW, 2016. YTNW logo. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: http://www. ytsn.org.uk Figure 19 – Wikipedia, 2016. Pansexual flag. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pansexuality
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Figure 20 – CoParents, 2016. Surrogacy. [Internet] Accessed: 11/22/16. Available from: https:// www.coparents.co.uk/surrogate-mothers.php Figure 21 – Modern family surrogacy, 2016. Legal issues surrounding surrogacy. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://www. modernfamilysurrogacy.com/page/legal_issues_ surrounding_surrogacy Figure 22 – Mitchell, M. 2016. Freedom of religion is not freedom to discriminate. [Internet] Accessed:11/23/16. Available from: http:// europe.newsweek.com/how-christian-universities-are-becoming-battleground-lgbt-rights-422354?rm=eu
Figure 23 – Schliess, G. 2014. Russian homosexuals turn to US for help. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://www.dw.com/ en/russian-homosexuals-turn-to-us-forhelp/a-17563496 Figure 24 – Johnson, S. 2014. End fathers day. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://www.funnyjunk.com/Feminists+view+on+father+s+day/funny-pictures/5951715/
Figure 25 – Heckinglovato, 2014. Unisex toilets. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://atrl.net/forums/showthread. php?t=549307
Figure 26 – Gayashville, N.D. Gay couple getting married. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://www.gayashevillenc.com/gay-marriage.html
Figure 27 - Bever, L. 2014. Same sex family. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: https:// www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/ wp/2014/07/07/children-of-same-sex-couplesare-happier-and-healthier-than-peers-researchshows/?utm_term=.d6a17ef75fd3
Figure 28 & 29 – Thompson, D. 2013. Rise of gay marriage and fall of straight marriage. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http://www. theatlantic.com/business/archive/2013/04/therise-of-gay-marriage-and-the-decline-of-straightmarriage-wheres-the-link/274665/ Figure 30 – Google, 2016. Cross dressing sizes search. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: www.google.com
Figure 31 – Waghorn, M. 2015. Gay couples could have their own biological children. [Internet] Accessed: 11/23/16. Available from: http:// www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/gay-couples-could-biological-children-7033918 Figure 32 – National wax museum, N.D. Family ticket. [Internet] Accessed: 12/1/16. Available from: http://shop.waxmuseumplus.ie/collections/tickets
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