COM M ODIT Y & SUS TAINABILIT Y HOW IN F ORMED PR OD U C T AN D RE TAIL D E SI G N C AN C H ANG E T HE WAY WE T HIN K AB O U T BU YIN G AND D I S C AR D I NG
C ALE B AMUNDSON
T HE SI S PR O G R AM
FAL L 2 01 6
TABLE OF CONT E NT S
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INT R O D UC T I ON 006 Executive Statement 008 Goals & Objectives
RE SE AR C H 012 014 016 023
Review of Literature Theory Cradle to Cradle Framework Codes & Guidelines
PRE CEDENT S 026 Retail 030 Backpack
USER 040 Needs 042 Anthropometrics
M AT ERI AL I T Y 046 Backpack
BIBL IO G R APHY 050 Bibliography
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I NT R O D U C T IO N 0 0 6 E X E CU T I V E S TAT EM EN T 0 0 8 G OAL S & OBJE C T I V E S
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Clothing has long been one of the most basic forms of shelter and security for people. It not only provides physical safety from nature’s elements, but also provides psychological safety through privacy, allowing people to control what others can and cannot see. What happens when a basic human need becomes one of the planet’s biggest problems, though? The clothing industry is the second largest waste producer worldwide, only narrowly falling behind oil and gas (“The Facts About Textile Waste”). The North Face points out that although 95 percent of textile waste is reusable or recyclable, instead it is thrown out and taken to a landfill. That amounts to an average of 70 pounds per person in the United States in 2012 (Clothes the Loop).
E X EC U T IV E STATEM ENT
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Consumers are largely ignorant of the depth of this issue, especially in Western, capitalistic societies where large clothing corporations depend on increasing sales each quarter to keep stakeholders happy. Traditionally new clothing was debuted for retailers biannually: a continuation of Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter fashion weeks reflect this (English). In recent years, however, fast fashion retailers like H&M, Gap, and Forever XXI have released as many as 30 micro-seasons per year. New, extremely inexpensive product is constantly arriving on shelves across the world (The True Cost). The fast fashion industry has thus encouraged consumers to adopt a buy-and-toss mentality, where rather than investing in a handful of new pieces each year that are carefully maintained and repaired until they are outgrown or outworn, people thoughtlessly buy 4-5 bargain t-shirts that they will only
wear once before throwing them away. The same buy-and-toss mentality has transcended the fashion industry. In fact, even things like consumer electronics, appliances, and furniture have become so valueless in capitalistic society that people would rather throw out the old than invest in maintenance and repair. To portray a positive image to the public, many of these companies have put sustainability initiatives in place, but they rarely scratch more than the surface of the issues at hand and seem to be fueled more by good marketing than a desire for meaningful change. In order to holistically tackle the need for a consumer mindset shift while setting an example for large and small cloth-good producers, a recycled fabric backpack and mobile recycling and retail truck were designed. Just creating a product made from recycled and sustainable materials is not enough: educating the public and providing a way for them to practice what they preach is essential in making lasting systemic change. Therefore, the purpose of this project is to persuade people to examine their values, understand the bigger picture of commodity and consumerism, and step toward a lasting sustainable future.
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G OAL S & OBJ EC TIV E S
AN AC CE S SI BL E AN D C ON VEN I EN T MOBI L E R E TAI L T R U CK F OR T E X T I L E R E C YCL I N G C OL L E C T I ON AN D ED U C AT I ON WA S CR E AT ED I N OR DER TO PR OVOK E A MI N DSE T SH I F T N E CE S S AR Y F OR MOVI N G TOWAR D A S US TAI N ABL E F U T U R E I N T H E WOR L D ’S SE C ON D MOS T WA S T EF U L I N D US T R Y. Additionally, a backpack made from recycled textiles was designed as a precedent that encourages sustainability amongst Millennial consumers through promoting alternative transportation and long-term investment, replacing a flippant buy-and-toss mentality. The following goals and objectives provide guidance for the approach and intended outcomes of this project.
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G O AL 1 Both the retail truck and backpack should educate the public about textile waste, commodity, and practical steps toward a sustainable future – Showcase the design, sourcing, production, retail, and reuse/recycling process as a teaching tool within the retail truck – Encourage textile recycling through convenient, accessible collection as well as intrinsic and extrinsic motivation
G OAL 2 The mobile retail and recycling truck should promote holistic sustainability and user engagement – Use biofuel and renewable energy to power the vehicle – Appeal to Millennials through a tailored retail experience and strong brand presence – Use recycled, repurposed, locallysourced, or highly recyclable materials and products to construct and operate the retail truck
G OAL 3 The backpack will be ergonomically correct and encourage sustainable behavior – Utilize the cradle-to-cradle design framework to ensure that the product is socially, economically, and environmentally beneficial over it’s entire lifecycle – Design for changing technology and encourage the use of alternative transportation through carrying capacity and adaptability for the needs of cyclists and walkers – Incorporate user adjustability for proper ergonomics among common male and female body dimensions
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RE SE AR CH 0 12 RE VIE W OF L IT ER AT U RE 0 14 T HE ORIE S 0 16 F R AME WORK S 0 18 C ODE S & G UIDEL INE S
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The Council for Textile Recycling (CTR) reported 25.46 billion pounds of post-consumer textile waste was thrown away in the United States during 2009, a staggering 40 percent increase over 1999. Meanwhile diversion efforts increased only two percent (“The Facts About Textile Waste”). Goldsmith reports that in New York City, almost 7 percent of total municipal landfill waste was made of consumer textiles in 2011, which amounts to nearly 400 million pounds. The issue is undeniable: less than 25 percent of post-consumer textile waste being diverted from landfills through recycling or donation programs, but nearly 100 percent of textiles are recyclable (Koch, 1999; Hawley, 2008; “The Facts About Textile Waste”). The CTR defines post-consumer textiles as, “all types of garments or household articles made of textiles that the owner no longer needs and desires to discard” (Koch, 1999). At the heart, Hawley suggests that, “Fashion marketers entice us to buy something new every season…consumers satisfy their whims often overburdening their closet space and probably their credit cards.” When consumers consciously accumulate an unnecessary amount of clothing the industry profits, but last season’s unwanted goods now pose a significant issue (Hawley, 2008). In addition, Hawley points out that dealing with textile waste is complicated by blended and synthetic fabrics that add a level of complexity to separation, often requiring skilled labor to identify and sort correctly for recycling or reuse.
RE V IE W O F LITER ATURE
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So how do consumers currently deal with closets and dressers bursting at the seams? The two primary
disposal methods for textiles are donating to charities or tossing them out (Koch, 1999). Donating to charity is important and does help many low-income people, but it falls short of tackling the bigger textile waste problem because charities are not able to resell all of what is donated. For example, Goodwill sells around half of what they receive, while a more realistic expectation for most charities is around 20 percent (Unravel; Hawley, 2008). Unsold garments are then either bundled up and shipped to developing countries or sold to the dealers and brokers of the used textile industry (Unravel; Hawley, 2008). Unfortunately, these hand-medowns often do more harm than help. Thinking logically, shipping clothing to developing countries can have a negative economic impact on the local clothing makers, driving down demand for their skill and services. Additionally, the lack of infrastructure can mean difficulty properly disposing garments that are no longer wearable or able to be repurposed. What are some solutions to this systemic problem? Approaching a more holistic view of the issue at hand, Goldsmith suggests that textile recycling can and should include upcycling, downcycling, selling, trading, donating, and other methods that save or delay textiles from being entombed in a landfill. Upcycling
could include, “making a dress from old dresses, or producing yarn from the trimmings from garment manufacturing,” and downcycling might be, “shredding worn out textiles for insulation” (Goldsmith, 2012). Another potential solution is considering the convenience factor: how easy accessibility to recycling drastically improves participation. Research examined by Koch revealed, “large numbers of people will take proenvironmental actions if they have access to a convenient way of doing so” (Koch, 1999). She sites other studies that found a direct correlation between recycling and provision of easy access collection methods. Additionally, her statistical analysis showed a significant relationship between recycling rates of certain materials with whether or not curbside pick-up was available. Goldsmith also found a correlation between convenience and participation in recycling. New York City collected recyclables only once a week, while on the other hand trash was collected three times a week. This resulted in recycling participation of less than half the national average (Goldsmith, 2012). People claimed that recycling was inconvenient because of the lack of storage space in the small living quarters common to downtown.
Educating people about the environment is also a necessary part of the solution. While there is uncertainty between causation and correlation, it has been found that wealthier people tend to recycle more than those with lower income (Koch, 1999; Goldsmith, 2012). Koch discovered that, “psychographic variables, extent of environmental knowledge or concern, and the interaction of attitudes, values, and goals” have a stronger empirically-supported relationship to recycling and social responsibility than demographics alone. Additionally, Koch’s research found strong correlation between people recycling and a combination of greater media attention on the environment and cityrun education programs about recycling. What this shows is that people who are more educated about and care more for the environment follow their convictions and recycle more. Thus educating all types of people, regardless of socio-economic background, is one of the primary responsibilities of anyone attempting to change the system. The cradle-to-cradle movement created by Michael Braungart and William McDonough is a powerful change agent confronting the entire lifecycle of a product by offering a stringent framework for what they call “eco-effectiveness.” Seeing an opportunity to go beyond just eliminating emissions during product production, “eco-effectiveness is a positive agenda for the conception and production of goods and services that incorporate social, economic, and environmental benefit, enabling triple top line growth” (Braungart et al., 2006). The most important part of the ecoeffectiveness idea is the thoughtful exploration of how both products and systems can actually get better over time. According to Braungart et al., eliminating
emissions is treating the symptoms rather than the disease because it only considers the first life of the product or system, which ultimately means that a material becomes less valuable with time. The cradle-to-cradle framework attempts to flip eco-efficiency on its head through the process of upcycling: generating “cradle-to-cradle ‘metabolisms’ that enable materials to maintain their status as resources and accumulate intelligence over time” (Braungart et al., 2006). Both economy and ecology are benefitted from upcycling: less material needs to be extracted and products can continue to be produced. While cradle-to-cradle is admirable, it has received some scrutiny for the lack of consideration about products that are designed using the framework but consume large amount of energy during their lifespan like consumer electronics (Llorach-Massana et al., 2015).
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T HEO R Y
G ENER AT IONAL C OHOR T T HE OR Y
B ACKG R O UND According to Brosdahl and Carpenter, this theory was first defined by Inglehart in 1977 and then popularized by Strauss and How in 1991. They define a generational cohort as a “segment of the population that shares the same attitudes, ideas, values, and beliefs... based on being born during the same time period and living through similar emotional events during their early teens and twenties.” Consumption habits change just as the events that define they way they live change. Parament asserts that generations are more or less defined by significant societal events like political, economic, natural, or technological changes that
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MI L L EN N I AL S leave a lasting mark. Additionally, the values that define a generation can be separated into the smaller “coming of age” groups, which Parament defines as those “roughly between the ages of 17 and 23” because of the impressionability of adolescents and young adults. The U.S. Chamber of Commerce suggests that the defining events for older Millennials are 9/11, Columbine (and other mass shootings), and natural disasters like the 2004 Southeast Asian tsunami and Hurricane Katrina. Millennials currently have one of the most dominant voices in the world consumer market (Parament, 2012).
Millennials in the U.S. currently make up 26% of the population, of which 33% are descendants of minorities. Chief characteristics of Millennials are make more impulse decisions, take more risks, are less motivated by money, and more optimistic than previous generations. They also highly value education.
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CR AD LE TO CR ADLE T H E SING UL AR G O AL O F T HE CR AD L E TO CR AD L E F R AM E WOR K I S TO SHIF T F R O M, “SIM PLY BEI NG ‘L E S S B AD ’ TO BE C O M ING ‘M OR E G O OD ’ ” (C2C ® F R AM E WO RK ). All businesses want to be efficient, but there is a grave difference between efficiency and sustainability, which requires that producers and consumers not only lessen their footprint, but actually leave it better than before. A product or process attempting Cradle to Cradle certification level (Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold, or Platinum) will be awarded based on the lowest achievement met in one of the five following principles. For example, if a product receives a Gold in Material Health, Material Reutilization, Renewable Energy, and Water Stewardship, but only a Silver in Social Fairness, the product would be certified Silver.
MAT ER I AL HE ALT H Knowing the chemical ingredients of every material in a product, and optimizing towards safer materials – Identify materials as either biological or technical nutrients – Understand how chemical hazards combine with likely exposures to determine potential negative impacts to human health and the environment
MAT ER I AL R EU T I L I Z AT I ON Design products made with materials that come from and can safely return to nature or industry – Maximize the percentage of rapidly renewable materials or recycled content used in a product – Maximize the percentage of materials that can be safely reused, recycled, or composted at the product’s end of use – Designate your product as technical (can safely return to industry) and/or biological (can safely return to nature)
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REN E WABL E ENER GY & C ARBO N M ANAG E M ENT Envision a future in which all manufacturing is powered by 100% clean renewable energy – Source renewable electricity and offset carbon emissions for the product’s final manufacturing stage
WAT ER S T E WAR DSHI P Manage clean water as a precious resource and an essential human right – Address local geographic and industry water impacts at each manufacturing facility
S O CI AL FAI R N E S S Design operations to honor all people and natural systems affected by the creation, use, disposal, or reuse of a product – Use globally recognized resources to conduct self-assessments to identify local and supply chain issues and third party audits to assure optimal conditions –Make a positive difference in the lives of employees and the local community
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MAT ER I AL H E ALT H No Banned List chemicals are present above thresholds Materials defined as biological or technical nutrients 100% “characterized� (i.e., all generic materials listed) Strategy developed to optimize all remaining x-assesed chemicals At least 75% assessed by weight (Complete formulation information collected for 100% of BN materials that are released directly into the biosphere as a part of their intended use) At least 95% assessed by weight (Complete formulation information collected for 100% of BN materials that are released directly into the biosphere as a part of their intended use) Assessed materials do not contain carcinogenic, mutagenic, or reproductively toxic (CMR) chemicals in a form that may result in plausible exposure 100% assessed by weight Formulation optimized (i.e., all x-assessed chemical replaced or phased out) Meets Cradle to Cradle VOC emission standards where relevant All process chemical assessed and no x-assessed chemicals present
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B A SI C
BR ON ZE
SILVER
G OL D
PL AT I N U M
MAT ER I AL R EU T I L I Z AT IO N
B A SI C
BR ON ZE
SILVER
G OL D
PL AT I N U M
Defined the appropriate cycle (i.e., technical or biological) for the product Designed or manufactured for the technical or biological cycle and has a material (re)utilization score ≥ 35 Designed or manufactured for the technical or biological cycle and has a material (re)utilization score ≥ 50 Designed or manufactured for the technical or biological cycle and has a material (re)utilization score ≥ 65 Well-defined nutrient management strategy (including scope, timeline, and budget) for developing the logistics and recovery systems for this class of product or material) Designed or manufactured for the technical or biological cycle and has a material (re)utilization score 100 This product is actively being recovered and cycled in a technical or biological metabolism
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REN E WABL E ENER GY & C ARBO N M ANAG E M ENT Purchased electricity and direct on-site emissions associated with the final manufacturing stage of the product are quantified A renewable energy use and carbon management strategy is developed For the final manufacturing stage of the product, 5% of purchased electricity is renewably sourced or offset with renewable energy projects, and 5% of direct on-site emissions are offset For the final manufacturing stage of the product, 50% of purchased electricity is renewably sourced or offset with renewable energy projects, and 50% of direct on-site emissions are offset For the final manufacturing stage of the product, >100% of purchased electricity is renewably sourced or offset with renewable energy projects, and >100% of direct on-site emissions are offset The embodied energy associated with the product from Cradle to Gate is characterized and quantified, and a strategy to optimize is developed ≼ 5% of the embodied energy associated with the product from Cradle to Gate is covered by offsets or otherwise addressed (e.g., through projects with suppliers, product redesign, savings during the use phase, etc.)
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B A SI C
BR ON ZE
SILVER
G OL D
PL AT I N U M
WAT ER S T E WAR D SHIP
B A SI C
BR ON ZE
SILVER
G OL D
PL AT I N U M
The manufacturer has not received a significant violation of their discharge permit related to their product within the last two years Local- and business-specific water-related issues are characterized (e.g., the manufacturer will determine if water scarcity is an issue and/ or if sensitive ecosystems are at risk due to direct operations) A statement of water stewardship intentions describing what action is being taken for mitigating identified problems and concerns is provided A facility-wide water audit is completed Product-related process chemicals in effluent are characterized and assessed (required for facilities with product-relevant effluent) OR Supply chain-relevant water issues for at least 20% of Tier 1 suppliers are characterized and a positive impact strategy is developed (required for facilities with no product-relevant effluent) Product-related process chemicals in effluent are optimized (effluents identified as problematic are kept flowing in systems of nutrient recovery; effluents leaving facility do not contain chemicals assessed as problematic) (required for facilities with product- relevant effluent) OR Demonstrated progress against the strategy developed for the Silver-level requirements (required for facilities with no product-relevant effluent) All water leaving the manufacturing facility meets drinking water quality standards
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SO C I AL FAI R NE S S A streamlined self-audit is conducted to assess protection of fundamental human rights Management procedures aiming to address any identified issues have been provided A full social responsibility self-audit is complete and a positive impact strategy is developed (based on UN Global Compact Tool or B-Corp) Material-specific and/or issue-related audit or certification relevant to a minimum of 25% of the product material by weight is complete (FSC Certified, Fair Trade, etc.) OR Supply chain-relevant social issues are fully investigated and a positive impact strategy is developed OR The company is actively conducting an innovative social project that positively impacts employees’ lives, the local community, global community, or social aspects of the product’s supply chain or recycling/reuse Two of the Silver-level requirements are complete All three Silver-level requirements are complete A facility-level audit is completed by a third party against an internationally recognized social responsibility program (e.g., SA8000 standard or BCorp)
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B A SI C
BR ON ZE
SILVER
G OL D
PL AT I N U M
CODE S & G UIDE LINE S T H ER E AR E N OT AN Y CU R R EN T N AT I ON AL C ODE S OR GU I DEL I N E S T H AT R E GU L AT E T H E DE SI G N OF R E TAI L T R U CK S . However, some cities do have legislation in place to limit the length of retail vehicles, require fire safety inspections, or other evaluations before a mobile business can obtain a vendor license. Some other ordinances do exist that regulate where vehicles can park or open up shop. For example, the City of Manhattan prohibits mobile food vendors from parking in any public right of way, but they are allowed to park on private property that is zoned appropriately for retail. Because current municipal mandates are largely concerned with post-construction evaluations, standard accessibility and material considerations were made to ensure the health, safety, welfare, and equal experience for all types of users. It is expected that standards will be developed as the industry becomes more of a national presence.
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PR ECED ENT S 0 26 RE TAIL 0 30 B ACK PACK
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AE T H ER ST R E AM PR OJ E C T T YPE
F E AT UR E S
S T R EN GT H S
Mobile retail trailor
32’ Airstream PanAmerican trailer
D E SI G NER
Large rear cargo door creates an awning over the main entry
Expression of brand identity and values through experience (fireplace), materiality, color palette, and general aesthetic
Thierry Guagain
EN VI R O NM ENTAL LO C AT IO N
Fireplace and sink emphasize camping/ exploration values of the brand
Mobile, attaches to a standard trailer hitch
Simple, masculine color palette
I NT ENDED USER G R O UP
Flexible display system design to accomodate standard product sizes
According to Aether, “urban-dwelling, design-focused, well-traveled men...”
Storage for loose items to be contained during transit
PR I CE
34’7” L X 8’5.5” W exterior
No price listed for trailer, Aether products range from $40 t-shirts to $825 outerwear
8’1” W X 6’5” H interior
S US TAINABIL IT Y C O NCEP T S
Carlisle wide plank reclaimed oak flooring
Repurposed Airstream PanAmerican trailer Reclaimed oak flooring Custom sofa and table by Environment Furniture made of sustainably-harvested wood 026
AE T HER APPAREL
MAT ER I AL S
Sustainably harvested wood display table and sofa Stainless steel clothing rods Blackened steel pipe for special displays
Use of some sustainable materials in design and fabrication Effective use of space – fits a changing room and other standard amenities of retail spaces Creates a variety of spaces/ environments within a very small footprint
WE AK N E S SE S Not designed to accomodate a wheelchair (no access ramp, ~2’ wide aisles) All displays could be better designed to hold items securely during transport to reduce set up/tear down time Trailer separated from towing vehicle can create maneuverability challenges
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AT MOSPH ER E Gaugain and the fabrication team executed an extremely sophisticated interior with ambience that epitomizes the brand. The trailer feels like a cabin on wheels, which encourages urban customers to engage with the products the way they are inteded to be used: both downtown and in the great outdoors.
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FOLDABLE SCREEN
CHANGING ROOM
CARGO DOOR
STORAGE
STORAGE
DISPLAY
WORKSHOP TABLE / DISPLAY
SINK
DISPLAY
STORAGE
SEATING AREA
FIREPLACE
CUSTOM SOFA
DISPLAY
PL AN N.T. S .
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K AB AN T R AN SIT PACK
T HE N OR T H FACE
PR OJ E C T T YPE
F E AT UR E S
S T R EN GT H S
Commuter bag, backpack
25.5-liter capacity
Highly durable and water resistant
EN VI R O NM ENTAL LO C AT IO N
Designed with technology in mind
Laptop sleeve 1.5” from bottom of bag to protect against damage from dropping
Mobile, designed with bike, motorcycle, and airplane travel in mind
I NT ENDED USER G R O UP Bicycle commuters
PR I CE $109.00
S US TAINABIL IT Y C O NCEP T S Promoting alternative transportation Using recycled textiles for some of he pack (900D polyester) Lifecycle assessment Clothes the Loop take-back program – $10 credit on next $100 purchace for bringing outgrown, worn out, or unwanted clothing of any brand to a North Face retail or outlet store
– Fits a 17” laptop, 9.7” tablet, and 5.5” phone in fleece-lined, easy-to access compartments separate from main volume – TSA compatible laptop sleeve Lumbar support and ventilatino (through mesh design –different color fabric) Reflective bike-light loop, reflective water bottle tabs, and reflective shoulder strap (something on each side for 360º visibility at night)
MAT ER I AL S 500D nylon matte ripstop 420D nylon 900D polyester with TPE PVC coating 1680D ballistic s nylon Teksever watter bottle pockets
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Opaque water bottle sleeves to conceal contents Rigid bottom allows back to stand up on its own Fits tight to body, which is helpful for balancing on a bicycle Reviewers claim that it is attractive, comfortable, and durable
WE AK N E S SE S Many users say that the bag does not fit a 17” laptop as The North Face claims One user even claims that it will not fit a 15.6” HP Pavilion laptop Many users complain that the front D-pocket is too thin to carry chargers and other bulkier items Another reviewer complained that the stap attachment at the bottom of the bag digs into his back and is painful to wear Water leaks in through exposed zippers Users claim that there aren’t enough pockets
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S T R AP S Backpack straps are incredibly intricate pieces that make or break the comfort and ergonomics of the bag. Noting the angles of the stap will help better understand how a backpack should properly engage the body to support weight and conform to natural proportions.
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B ACK PADDI N G Both the shoulder straps and the back feature custom injection-molded padding. The dense, flexible foam within the arm straps offers needed stability while remaining comfortable and flexible. The FlexVent suspension system integrates needed cushion and support with moisture-wicking textiles and a central channel for the spine. Special attention was given to lumbar support where both a different fabric and slightly different padding are used. The back padding seems akin to memory foam.
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M OTO R CIT IZEN
CHR OME IN D US T RIE S
PR OJ E C T T YPE
F E AT UR E S
S T R EN GT H S
Commuter bag, messenger bag
26-liter capacity
EN VI R O NM ENTAL LO C AT IO N
Straps are reflective for night visibility
Highly adaptable to suit individual’s needs with an ingenious Velcro system
Mobile, designed for cyclists/bikers
Various Velcro (“industrial strength hook and loop accessory mounting shoulder strap”) accessories can be added
CL I ENT O R INT END ED USER G R O UP Bicycle or motorcycle commuters
PR I CE $200.00
S US TAINABIL IT Y C O NCEP T S Promoting alternative transportation Lifetime repair warranty against defects
M AT ER IAL S 10/50D duragrade nylon (high abrasion resistance, waterproof) Military grade truck tarpaulin for interior 60/9 nylon thread
Mounting loops for carabiners or bike lights Internal fasteners for adding accessories (customizable) Tool pockets for quick access Hanging bucket construction: bag is built twice – Inside is made first and outside is sewn to it – Offers extra weather protection – Three sides of inner shell can be detatched Military grade Velcro allows additional accessories to be attached on shoulder strap and other strategic locations (inside for laptop cases/paper organizers/etc.)
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Super durable, confirmed by customers Weatherproof Effective proportions that maximize usable capacity Body-hugging for balance when riding
WE AK N E S SE S Some customers claim that a lack of padding on the back is uncomfortable Accessories like a laptop sleeve (sold separately) help Many people complain about the lack of standard pockets (needing to buy accessories to meet needs) Some customers claim that it was more about looks than function and that the strap was uncomfortable when carrying large loads
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BODY EN G AG E MEN T The bag is relatively simple, but the key is how it engages with the body. By sitting at a slight angle across the back, it fits comfortably and close to the body. Unlike most messenger bags, weight is distributed ergonomically thanks to the thick shoulder strap and adjustable rib strap. A small clip fitting under the armpit offers added stability when biking. The body of the bag itself has no padding, but the shoulder strap features dense, flexible foam covered in fabric.
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U SER 0 4 0 N EEDS 0 4 2 AN T HR OP OME T RIC S
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NE EDS
TAR G E T DE MO G R APHIC
M I L L ENNIAL S
VALU E S
DE SI R E S
According to a study by Brosdahl and Carpenter, Millennials in the U.S. currently make up 26% of the population, of which 33% are descendants of minorities.
Within a retail environment, male Millennials prefer specialty and department stores over discount stores. Brand loyalty also has a significant affect on the shopping experience. If a customers is bought in to a brand, they are more likely to return and value the help offered by sales staff more. The antithesis of that would mean disengaged customers are less likely to have positive interactions with sales staff.
Millennials desire specialty stores over big box retail environments and often treat physical stores as showrooms before purchasing online.
Chief characteristics of Millennials are make more impulse decisions, take more risks, are less motivated by money, and more optimistic than previous generations. They also highly value education.
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In order to really appeal to the most influential consumer generation, retailers must have a strong web and physical presence, offering seamless integration between the two platforms. Features like live “in stock� counts and organizing retail spaces like an web store are key for conversion.
F I NANCE S According to a Pew Research study, Millennials have more student debt, are more likely to live below the poverty line, are more likely to be unemployed, and have less overall wealth and income than Gen X and Baby Boomers. However, 80 percent are content with their financial situation and say that they will be able to live comfortably in the future. Millennials in the U.S. have $200 billion in buying power each year, with teens having an average dispensable income of $60-100 per week. However, they are more frugal than their predecessors, with 22% actively saving money and 16% without credit cards.
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ANT H R O P OM E TRIC S B ACK PACK F IT T ING Measuring torso length, the distance between the C7 vertebra and point on your lumbar halfway between each iliac crest (top of the hip bones), is the first step in finding a backpack that fits and distributes weight properly. For packs that include hip straps, finding your hip measurement (the circumference of your waist) is also essential. The hip measurement is taken at the illiac crest, so it will most likely differ from the user’s pant size. In packs with hip straps, the majority of weight should rest on the hips, not the shoulders. Finding the proper fit will help lessen the risk of back injury, especially when carrying heavy or awkwardsized loads.
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PERCENT OF PEOPLE WILL EXPERIENCE LOW-BACK PAIN IN THEIR WORKING LIVES
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BACK INJURIES ARE THE PRIMARY CAUSE OF DISABILITY IN PEOPLE UNDER 45
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D I A G R A MS F R O M PA NER O, J UL I US , A ND MA R T I N Z EL NI K . H UMAN DIMENSION & INT ERIOR SPACE : A SO UR CE BO OK OF DE SIG N REF ERENCE S TANDARDS . N E W YO R K : WHI T NE Y L I BR A R Y O F DE SI G N, 197 9.
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M AT ER I ALIT Y 0 4 6 B ACK PACK
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B ACK PACK
5 0 0D NYLO N
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9 0 0 D P OLYE S T ER
1 6 8 0D B AL L I S T I C N YLON
N YLO N & P O LYE S T ER
DENI ER SC AL E
Most backpacks today are made from a mixture of synthetic nylon and polyester fabrics and sewn with nylon thread. The advantage is extreme durability. With advancing production methods, recycled material is being used more commonly by manufacturers to produce these fabrics. However, they are not easily recyclable after the product has reached the end of it’s lifecycle. Cordura is one of the leading producers of nylon and polyester fabric for backpacks and outdoor gear.
Fabric is rated using the denier, a unit of measure denoting how thick the individual thread fibers are. The higher then number, the thicker and more durable the textile will be. It is denoted by a ‘D’ after a number. For scale, a human hair is 20 denier and a microfiber is 1 denier. 5 0 0 D EN I ER
1 DENI ER
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BI BLI O G R APH Y
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I NF O R M AT IO N “AETHERstream Seattle Pop-Up Shop.” Hypebeast. Accessed December 14, 2016. https://hypebeast.com/2013/9/ aetherstream-seattle-pop-up-shop. Braungart, Michael, William Mcdonough, Albin Kälin, and Andrew Bollinger. “Cradle-to-Cradle Design: Creating Healthy Emissions—A Strategy for Eco-Effective Product and System Design.” Creating Desired Futures How Design Thinking Innovates Business. Accessed September 18, 2016. doi:10.1515/9783034611398.247. “C2C® Framework.” MBDC. Accessed November 27, 2016. http://mbdc.com/ c2c-framework/. “The Facts About Textile Waste.” Council for Textile Recycling. Accessed October 03, 2016. http://www. weardonaterecycle.org/about/issue. html. Goldsmith, David. “The Worn, The Torn, The Wearable: Textile Recycling in Union Square.” Nordic Textile Journal 1 (2012): Nordic Textile Journal, 2012, Vol. 1.
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Grimmer, Karen, Brenton Dansie, Steve Milanese, Ubon Pirunsan, and Patricia Trott. “Adolescent Standing Postural Response to Backpack Loads: A Randomised Controlled Experimental Study.” BMC Musculoskeletal Disorders 3, no. 1 (2002). Accessed September 18, 2016. doi:10.1186/1471-2474-3-10.
“The Millennial Generation Research Review.” U.S. Chamber of Commerce Foundation. November 12, 2012. Accessed October 09, 2016. https:// www.uschamberfoundation.org/reports/ millennial-generation-research-review.
Hawley, Jana M. “9.1. Economic Impact of Textile Recycling.” New York, NY: Fairchild Books, 2008. Accessed September 18, 2016. http://hdl.handle. net/2097/1228
Parment, Anders. “Generation Y vs. Baby Boomers: Shopping Behavior, Buyer Involvement and Implications for Retailing.” Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services 20, no. 2 (2013): 189-99. Accessed September 18, 2016. doi:10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.001.
Koch, K., and T. Domina. “Consumer Textile Recycling as a Means of Solid Waste Reduction.” Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal 28, no. 1 (1999): 3-17. Accessed September 18, 2016. doi:10.1177/1077727x99281001.
Ramadan, Mohamed Z., and Adel M. AlShayea. “A Modified Backpack Design for Male School Children.” International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics 43, no. 5 (2013): 462-71. Accessed September 18, 2016. doi:10.1016/j.ergon.2013.03.002.
Llorach-Massana, Farreny, and OliverSolà. “Are Cradle to Cradle Certified Products Environmentally Preferable? Analysis from an LCA Approach.” Journal of Cleaner Production 93 (2015): 243-50. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.01.032.
“United States QuickFacts.” US Census Bureau. Accessed October 03, 2016. https://www.census.gov/quickfacts/ table/PST045215/00.
I MAG E S https://www.booqbags.com/products/ mamba-courier-15-gray-15-inch-laptopshoulder-bag http://image.made-in-china. com/2f0j00cZAEvVmRkJoT/1000dPolyester-Oxford-PVC-PU-CorduraFabric.jpg
ACKN OWLEDGEME NT S A very special thank you to Ryadi Adityavarman and Katie Hoke for all of their hard work and late nights editing and advising the development of this thesis book. Also, thanks to Hannah and Grace Amundson, Kevin Van, Susie and the AMRA team, and Hunter Nordhauser for their feedback, inspiration, and resources. It truly takes a village.
http://schwarzmueller.com/hu/ jarmuvek/fueggoenyponyvas-sikplatosfelepitmeny-2-tengelyes-jarokepesalvazra/ https://www.unsplash.com/ https://vivian0816.files.wordpress. com/2012/10/dsc_0626.jpg
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COM M ODIT Y & SUS TAINABILIT Y HOW IN F ORMED PR OD U C T AN D RE TAIL D E SI G N C AN C H ANG E T HE WAY WE T HIN K AB O U T BU YIN G AND D I S C AR D I NG
C ALE B AMUNDSON
T HE SI S PR OJ E C T
FAL L 2 01 6
TABLE OF CONT E NT S
002
G ENER AT I V E I NT ENT 004 005 006 008 010
Problem Statement Generative Intent Mood Board Concept 1: Whole Concept 2: Pendulum
C O NCEP T UAL DE V ELOP MENT 012 014 016 023
Text Text Text Text
S CHE MAT I C DE SI G N 026 Text 030 Text
D E SIG N DE V ELOP MENT 040 Text 042 Text
F INAL DE SI G N 040 Text 042 Text
003
PROBLEM STAT EME NT AN AC CE S SIBL E AND C ON VENIENT MOBIL E RE TAIL T R UC K F OR T E X T I L E R E C YCL I N G C OL L E C T I ON AND ED UC AT I ON WI L L BE CR E AT ED I N OR DER TO PR OVOK E A MI N DSE T SH I F T N E CE S S AR Y F OR MOV I N G TOWAR D A S US TAI N ABL E F U T U R E I N T HE WOR L D ’S SE C ON D MOS T WA S T EF U L I ND US T R Y. Additionally, a backpack will be designed as a precedent that encourages wholistic sustainability amongst Millennial consumers through promoting alternative transportation and long-term investment while rejecting the pervasive buy-and-toss mentality.
004
G EN ER ATIV E INTENT BIG Q UE S T IO NS How do we make products sustainably — ecologically, ethically, and economically?
THRE E PAR T S SYSTEM
Waste textile collection & recycling
How do we reduce waste at every stage — production, packaging, shipping, retail, transport home, use, end of life? How do we create products that consumers connect with emotionally to ensure longterm investment?
EN VI R O NM ENT
Retail & recycling truck
How do we make just what we need, not excess? How do we sell a lifestyle, not just product, to change the system and create loyalty?
TO UC H P O I NT Backpack
005
006
MOO D B OAR D
AP O LI S CO UR I ER B AG $198
REF ORM ATION ARE S TUDIO B ARREL B AG $380
FIL SON ROLLTOP B ACKPACK $4 7 5
STE PHE N KE NN TOTE $6 7 5
CU YANA WEEK END ER B AG $250
R AI NS B ACKPACK $135
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WHO LE WH O L E IS A S Y S T E M O F IND I VID UAL PI E C E S T HAT CR E AT E A SING UL AR , UNIF IED F OR M. WHOL E I S M I C R O AND M ACR O, M O L E CUL AR AND C OSMI C . E A CH S C AL E O F F ERING UNIQ UE E X A MPL E S OF WH O L E , C O M PL E T E S Y S T E MS . Good design is both whole and holistic. It is a system of pieces, which in and of themselves become insignificant in light of the final product. It is also holistic, considering the physical, emotional, and mental impact on consumers as well as the social, environmental, and economic mark it leaves on the world.
008
009
PEN D ULU M A PEND ULUM ALWAY S SEEK S E Q UI L I BR I UM: A P O I NT O F B AL ANCE IN AL L D IRE C T I ONS WHER E B OT H T HE M A S S AND S USPENSI ON F OR M A S T R AI G HT L INE . BU T T HE JO UR NE Y TO T HAT P O I NT IS K INE T IC BLUR , S WAYIN G TO AND F R O. How is sustainability really possible in a capitalistic society: one driven entirely by supply and demand, continued stimulus of products entering and being consumed, over and over? A balance has to be struck between idealistic sustainability and consumerism for the system to be changed in a meaningful way. A pendulum, swinging back and forth between consumer interest and sustainability, will reveal a final balance point that real change can stem from.
010
0 11
S CH EM AT IC D E SI G N SI NC E T HE G ENER AT I VE INT ENT PH A SE , I S O UG HT TO CL E ARLY D EF I NE T HE T IM EL INE , USER S , BR AND, AND PR O G R AM F O R E AC H C O M P O NENT O F M Y PR OJE C T. This includes creating a generic outline of how the system functions, creating a logo and conceptual framework for graphics and branding, further research on millennial lifestyles, and preliminary designwork on the layout of the truck and backpack.
COM PANY A S A C OMPAN Y, PLU MB WI L L C ON SI S T OF 3 S TAF F : A PR OD U C T DE VELOPER , PR OD U C T I ON MANA G ER , AN D R E TAI L / R E C YCL I N G MAN AG ER . Products, including clothing, health & grooming, bags & accessories will be named after various explorers and inspired by their travels. For example, the Londonderry bag could be a saddle bag that slings over the back of a bicycle because Annie Londonderry was the first female to bike around the globe.
Londonderry.
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BR AN D PLU M B M E ANS TO E X PLO RE T H E DEP T HS OR E X T R E M E S , TO T HE HIG HE S T D E G R EE . I T AL SO M E ANS TO D IRE C T S O M E T HING WHER E I T NEEDS TO G O. T HAT ’S WHY WE D ER I V E V ER T I C AL S T R AI G HT NE S S F R O M T HE ID E A OF A PER F E C T LY PLU M B L INE . Plumb is the balance point between consumerism and sustainability. A brand changing the way we think about what we buy: exploring the depths of the production, consumption, and end of a product’s life to the highest degree. Customer education is a key component to system-wide change.
CLOTHING
Apparel.
H E A LT H & GROOMING
Provisions.
BAGS & ACCESSORIES
Equipment.
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TOP 3 CITIE S
1
WA SHINGTO N, D .C .
2
Millennials thrive here based on cost, social life, jobs, bikeability, & transportation.
AUS T I N, T X
3 DEN V ER , C O
TOP 3 C AREER S
1
HE ALT HC ARE 0 14
Millennials choose these fields based on salary, security, and growth.
2
T E C HNOLO GY
3 R E TAI L
WHAT ’S IN A B AG? Stuff millennials carry everywhere with them. Based on a survey of 25 peers in higher education and the professional world.
usb drive lip balm glasses or sunglasses headphones notebooks papers chargers
snack, gum, mints pain and allergy meds keys pens, pencils, markers water bottle planner book laptop
0 15
SYST EM
1 . P L U M B R E TA I L & R E C Y C L I N G
9. SELL TO CONSUMER
016
8. SHIP TO PLUMB
2. COLLECT CLOTHING
7. C U T, S E W, & FINISH
3. RECONSTITUTE FABRIC
6 . M A K E PAT T E R N
4. SELL/PROVIDE FABRIC
5. DESIGN PRODUCT
PR O D U CER S BE YOND T HE C O NS UM ER , T HE SE AR E PE O PL E T HAT PL AY A R O L E I N T H E PR O D UC T IO N O F A B AG . C O M P O NENT S
ADJACEN C Y PR I MAR Y C ONSI DER AT I ONS Security and storage for both collected recyclables and merchandise were the most significant challenges. PROVISIONS
– Fasteners – Tags – Packaging
TE X TILES
CASHWRAP RECYCLING COLLECTION
CHANGING ROOM
– Recycling – Manufacturing – Dyeing
FABR I C AT IO N – Cutting – Sewing – Finishing
STORAGE
R E PA I R COUNTER
A P PA R E L
EQUIPMENT
017
T R U CK
STORAGE
PROVISIONS
EQUIPMENT
EMPLOYEE C A S H W R A P, R E PA I R , & RECYCLING
CHANGING ROOM
A P PA R E L EQUIPMENT
EQUIPMENT
19 6 8 CIT R O EN H VAN Chosen for it’s immediate emotional connection and distinct European utility aesthetic, the H Van is the perfect retail truck for Plumb.
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OP T I ON 1 . S C A L E : 1 /4 ” = 1 ’ 0 ”
EMPLOYEE STORAGE
C A S H W R A P, R E PA I R , & RECYCLING
CHANGING ROOM
PROVISIONS
A P PA R E L
EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT
OP T I ON 2 . S C A L E : 1 /4 ” = 1 ’ 0 ”
019
D E SI G N D E V ELO P M ENT T H I S PHA SE WA S F O CUS SED O N R EF I NING T HE AE S T HE T IC AND F U NC T IO NAL IT Y O F T HE B AG AN D R E TAI L T RUCK . Reading Emotionally Durable Design has significantly shaped how I think about creating objects that are both valuable and beautiful. It starts with sharing their conception story and continues as people build memories with them. The bag was the primary focus of DD, beginning with defining an explorer to inspire the design and then moving into pattern making and several prototypes in different materials. I also revisited the truck, seriously considering circulation and user experience for both employee and patron.
020
B ARE T B AG JE ANNE B ARE T WA S A BOTAN I S T WH O T R AVEL L ED AR O UND T H E WOR L D WI T H H ER C ON S OR T, PHI L I BER T C OMMER S ON, DI S GU I SED A S A MAN I N OR DER TO C OL L E C T PL AN T S AMPL E S . The bag inspired by her is a daypack and market bag that changes function and physical appearance to suit different needs throughout the day of urban Millennials.
Baret.
DOUBLE LINING FOR EASY TRANSITION
H A N D L E B U I LT INTO STRAP
ROLL TOP FOR E X T R A S PA C E
A LT E R N AT I V E STRAP AT TA C H M E N T FOR SHOPPING
WAT E R & WINE BOTTLE POCKET
02 1
022
PAT T ER N M AK ING
P O C K E T PL E AT I NG
PAT T ER N CU T T I N G
Hannah Amundson, my older sister and professional mentor from the fashion industry, helped me to create a pattern based on a full scale paper mock up.
One of the most challenging parts was creating a pocket designed to fit a bottle of wine that would also fold flat. We arrived at the idea of using a pleated bottom.
After creating and labeling a pattern for each piece of the bag, we cut them out and placed them in a folder with an inventory sheet secured to the front.
M USL I N M O CK-UP
C AN VA S MO C K-UP
F I N I SH ED PR OTOT YPE
The next step was to create an initial mockup out of muslin, thin and inexpensive cotton fabric. seeing the bag in fabric at full scale was helpful, but the fabric behaved significantly different than canvas, so it was more of an exercise in sewing then helpful for seeing functionality.
My friend Kat, a fashion designer and natural textile dyer, helped me sew part of an initial canvas mock-up. Building off of the problems I ran into making the muslin mock-up, she advised the order pieces should be joined together to simplify the construction process.
After building the final canvas mock-up, I realized that the scale of the strap and shoulder staps needed adjustment to accomodate for the different bag modes. Having a prototype in actual material was helpful to see where structure and padding need to be added.
023
T R U CK
F LOOR PL A N Scale: 1/32”=1’0”
024
ZO N I N G
USE R E X PE RIE NCE SECURE CASH STORAGE IN VA N C A B
I N O R DER TO MA X I MI Z E L I MI T ED I N T ER I OR SPA C E AN D PR OVI DE A MOR E SE CU R E WOR K EN V I R ON MEN T, A SI N G L E 3 6 -I N CH AI SL E I N SI DE T HE T R U CK WA S DE CI DED U P ON OVER T H E OR I G I N AL L-SH APED CI R CU L AT I ON.
EMPLOYEE RESTOCK
OVERHEAD PA N E L
Customers can drop off recyclables and items for repair at the side door before passing by the large open side panel and heading into the truck to check out product and learn about the issues plaguing textile consumption. Customization can also happen in shop on the built-in sewing machine.
R E PA I R DROP-OFF
CUSTOMER BUFFER EMPLOYEE
Employees have a completely secure cab space for money storage and breaks. It was important to offer easy access to restock product through a hinged counter, while giving customers and employees clearly defined separate spaces for mutual comfort. Millennials reject high-pressure retail experiences, opting for more passive online means, but enjoy interacting with knowledgable staff.
025
RIGH T EL E VAT ION Scale: 1/32”=1’0”
026
L EF T EL E VAT ION Scale: 1/32”=1’0”
027
FI N AL D E SI G N WR APPING UP T HE PR OJE C T I N VOLV ED A LOT O F M AT ERIAL E X PER IM ENTAT IO N F O R PAD D ING AND D E TAIL ING O F T HE B AG ALONG WI T H MAT ERIAL AND F INISH APPL I C AT IO N WIT HIN T HE T RUCK , AND A RE VISIT TO T HE S Y S T E M. Since Design Development, I created two prototype accessories for the Baret bag: the dopp kit and technology sleeve. These accomodate all basic storage requirements of millennials and allow the user to quickly access or remove items from the bag for work or shopping. Inspired by Hanne Friis magnificent textile sculpture, I defined the focal point within the retail truck where customers and staff interact to make lasting change in the way people consume through education and dialogue becoming action.
028
SYS TEM WHI L E MOS T OF T H E S Y S T E M WA S C OH ER AN T, F UR T HER DEF I N I T I ON OF T H E R E C YCL ED T E X T I L E C OMP ONEN T WA S N EEDED. After having donated clothing reconstituted into new yardage, that fabric has two potential paths. First, it could be sold on the open market to any designer, producer, or fabric store, whether they’re involved in the Plumb system or not. Second, it could be provided to designers who create products for Plumb free of charge, then later deducted from their share of the profit when goods are sold, lowering initial risk and investment for designers. And finally, Plumb could certify 100% natural raw materials that are responsibly produced by other companies for use in Plumb products by designers. These partnerships could be a strategic marketing tool and also connect Plumb to the larger textile ecosystem in a more meaningful way.
1 . PLU MB R E TAIL & R E C YCLIN G
2 . C O LLE C T CLOTH IN G
4. SE LL/ PROVI DE FABRI C
9. SELL TO C ONSU M ER
SE LL YAR DAG E TO O PE N M AR K E T
8 . SHI P TO PLU M B
3 . RE CONSTITU TE FABRI C
PR OV ID E TO PLUM B D E SIG N E R S
7. C UT, SE W, & FIN ISH
CR E ATE A CE R TI FI E D M ATE R IAL LI ST
6. MAKE PAT TE RN
5 . DE SI GN PRODU C T
029
ADAP TABILIT Y BE C AUSE OF A C ON S TAN T LY CH AN G I N G PR OD U C T OF F ER I NG AN D P OT EN T I AL F OR E X PAN SI ON OF T HE C OL L E C T I ON AN D DEL I VER Y F U N C T I ON S , T HE T R UC K WA S DE SI G N ED TO BE D U R ABL E AN D E A SI LY ADAP TABL E . Additional shelving could easily be added or existing shelving removed through a simple rail system mounted to the metal truck frame. Undercounter storage maximizes space for display and allows for simplified restocking and secure transport. Because the truck will be converted to an electric vehicle, the engine cavity can serve as both secure money storage and space for collected recyclables or even extra product stock. Ideally, the feasibility and specific design of that space would be the focus of further development.
030
T R U CK FITTING ROOM
EQUIPMENT
EQUIPMENT
PROVISIONS
A P PA R E L
CASHWRAP & R E PA I R
PRODUCT STORAGE
RECYCLING STORAGE
SECURE STORAGE
F LOOR PL A N Scale: 1/32”=1’0”
031
032
IN T ERIOR PER SPEC T I V E
033
RIGH T EL E VAT ION Scale: 1/32”=1’0”
034
L EF T EL E VAT ION Scale: 1/32”=1’0”
035
BR AN D I N G ENG AG ING M IL L ENNIAL CUS TOMER S A C R OS S D I G I TAL AND PHY SIC AL PL AT F OR MS I S K E Y I N OR D ER TO HEL P T URN ED UC AT I ON ABO U T I S S U E S INTO AC T IO N.
Equipment.
Apparel.
9 785320 298542
100% Recycled or natural. 9 913624 493810
The Plumb website will contain accessible information and resources about the issue along with ways to get involved in recycling efforts and buying less, but better goods in the future. It will also have a fun truck livetracker so that customers can follow it around town. Other features like real time collection data when items are dropped off and impact statistics will be available alongside company and product stories.
Size.
Size.
Handmade in the USA.
100% Recycled or natural. Handmade in the USA.
MM.DD.YY
Dear Client,
Client Name
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam
Company Name
nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna aliquam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation
Street
ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.
City, ST 00000
Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros
In the truck itself, tablets will be located strategically at each department and connected to the exterior side of the truck so that customers can explore a specific product in depth.
et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, cons ectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna aliquam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna aliquam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros
E-commerce will only be available in the city and surrounding area the truck is currently in to maintain sustainable and closely monitored delivery impact.
036
plumbo
et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci.
1125 Westport Drive Manhattan, KS 66502
Cordially,
785.320.2985 info@plumbapparel.com
Caleb Amundson
plumbapparel.com
Owner.
Invoice No. 00-0000
Invoice. Date. MM.DD.YY Bill to. Client Name Company Name
Description.
Qty. / Price.
Amount.
/ / / /
Address. Street City, ST 00000
/ / / / / / / / /
plumbo
/ /
1125 Westport Drive Manhattan, KS 66502 Subtotal. 785.320.2985 info@plumbapparel.com plumbapparel.com
Tax.
Total.
plumbo 1125 Westport Drive Manhattan, KS 66502 plumbapparel.com
Caleb Amundson Owner. 913.624.4938 caleb@plumbapparel.com plumbapparel.com
To the nth degree.
037
B ACK PACK T H E F I NAL B ARE T B AG IS SL IG HT LY SHOR T ER T H AN T HE PRE VIO US PR OTOT YPE AND I NC LUDE S AN AD DIT IO NAL HID D EN SID E P O C K E T. Materiality and design language were refined in order to visually unify the bag with two new accessories. Exposed Merino felt and hand stitched leather give the bag a human touch. My friend Kat assisted me in naturally dyeing the final canvas with red onion skin and alum mordant to achieve a forest green color similar to the Pine colorway. I also explored various colorways to appeal to a variety of personalities while staying primarily neutral.
038
O B SID IAN
PI NE
I N DI G O
NAT UR AL
L I C HEN
C AR DI N AL
039
AC CE S SO R IE S I N O R DER TO AL LO W T HE B ARE T B A G TO R EMAI N A S SI MPL E AND T IM EL E S S A S P OS SI BL E , T WO AC CE S S O RIE S WERE D E SIG NED TO A C C OMODAT E CH ANG ING T E CHNO LO GY AND T HE E V ER YDAY I T E MS M IL L ENNIAL S C ARR Y WIT H T HEM. First, the dopp kit holds everything that might otherwise end up in the junk pocket or front flap of a backpack. It folds into a triangular shape and nests in either front corner of the bag next to smaller items like journals or books. A special pocket for a MacBook charger and slots for writing instruments, gum or mints, and a phone or external hard drive are all built in. A technology sleeve was also designed to hold up to a 15” MacBook Pro and 12.9” iPad Pro. One of my biggest frustrations with my current backpack is the lack of a convenient place for my Apple Pencil, so a small slot was created on the sleeve itself, which can be attached into the bag or carried solo.
040
M ATERIALIT Y BE T WEEN KOMBU CH A L E AT H ER AN D L AC TO PL A S T I C, I E X PER I MEN T ED WI T H A H AN DF U L OF BI OLO G I C AL MAT ER I AL S TO A S SE S S PR OD U C T I ON SC AL E F E A SI BI L I T Y. I explored how we can incorporate living materials to increase an emotional connection to the products while leaving the earth better than we found it when the product is ready to be retired. Max Kingery, a natural dyer and designer behind ecofashion label Older Brother, challenged me through his stance on production. His goal is for every piece of clothing they create to biodegrade within 5 years of burying it in your backyard: all the way down to using coconut buttons and soy ink printed tags, rejecting metal components whenever physically possible and refusing to use any petroleum-based components.
0 41
042
KO M BU C H A L E AT HER
DR YI NG
PR O CE S SI N G
To test the feasibility of growing kombucha leather for small scale production, I monitored the growth over 52 days before harvesting. I used a black tea and sugar solution to feed the SCOBYs 4 times over the period.
The solid SCOBY sheet was removed from the rectangular growing containers, washed and rinsed, and then laid to dry for 48 hours on a piece of plywood. The living material component helps with emotional connection to a product.
After cutting pattern pieces out with an Xacto knife, I applied a natural beeswax to help seal and protect the leather. The process could realistically be adapted to a production environment.
C H I A H YD R O G EL
L A C TO -PL A S T I C
1 0 0% MER I N O F ELT
When considering a natural material to serve as padding inside the straps and back panel, I experimented with encasing a chia hydrogel in milk-based plastic.
Unfortunately the homemade milk, cider vinegar, and citrus pectin recipe did not turn out as expected. Althought commercially made lacto-plastic would be a potential option to explore.
Because of the aesthetic, hydrophobic quality, durability, and natural process used to create felt, I selected it as the padding and structural material for the bag straps, back, and base. 043
044
C O N CLU SI O N E V ER Y PR OJE C T E VENT UAL LY C O ME S TO AN END. Learning about many of the seemingly hopeless issues facing the textile industry caused a lot of cynicism in the beginning. But after this semester, I firmly believe that it is possible to find a plumb line between consumerism and sustainability. It doesn’t have to be one or the other and it cannot be one or the other. By creating products that people emotionally connect with, using materials that can be recycled or composted, tightening projections and limiting production to only what will be sold, looking for cashflow across the entire system so that necessary sacrifices can be made in the retail component, and educating the public about how they can make systemic change: we can go beyond not damaging the earth and actually improve it with our products, our clothes, our designs. As with any project, there are more questions unanswered at the end than what I began with. How do we create patterns that mitigate wasted yardage through their shape and nesting? How do we partner with the industry in place rather than being the new kid
on the block who’s stirring everything up? What’s the happy balance between business expansion to meet the needs of a larger customer base while refusing to budge on the mission of resisting excess, of creating more than the world needs? But I am confident that I could open shop next week and pioneer a successful new venture, so I know that my goals, though evolving, were accomplished over the last 16 weeks. An incredibly special thank you to Hannah Amundson, Kevin Van, Kat Zoschke, Chris Earnshaw, Hunter Nordhauser, Sebnem Demirkan, my parents, and every one of my studiomates. The time, energy, effort, encouragement, insight, calling me on my bullshit, and above all else opening my mind to see beyond what I could have imagined on my own are the only reason this project is what it is. And my personal vendetta against all plastic is plowing full steam ahead. Sorry, grocery guy who has to ring up 20 loose fruits and veggies every week.
045
S OUR CE S BE S T CIT IE S
BE S T C AR EER S
http://www.businessinsider.com/best-cities-formillennials-2016-7
https://www.forbes.com/sites/ susanadams/2015/08/27/the-25-most-promisingjobs-for-millennials/#46bc72c84ea8
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