MASH Issue #2 by calliope95

From the Editor

Nick Blagrave

Beer Court is not in Session W

e talk about malt backbone, or

How many of us really hang our long board

“pleasantly malty finishes” in the craft beer

up under the bar and sit down for a cool

world a lot more than we did, say, five years ago.

“session” of beer drinking and think “well, I

In this issue we cover a number of individuals

can only drink one kind of beer per day, so I’d

who are taking grain choice and handling to

better choose something that almost satisfies

heart, more often than not, when you hear

my waning taste for hops, without being so

someone in clear-framed glasses extoll the

strong that I can’t have eight?”

virtues of a certain beer’s malty character, the

Don’t we already have a name for “slightly

subtext is: “thank god this one isn’t as hoppy

less boozy and hoppy India Pale Ale?” Isn’t

as the last one.”

it Pale Ale? Let’s face it: your “Session Ale”

I’ve said it elsewhere: Canadian craft beer

is a marketing play, and no more. And,

got its start shocking taste buds with more

besides being smoke and mirrors, the term

hop than was always sensible. Breweries often

undervalues (or, at best, is ignorant of) all of

advertised their beers as “hop-forward” (read:

the beautiful beer styles that, by nature, aren’t

insanely, almost painfully hoppy). So it’s no

“nuts hoppy.”

surprise that we’ve seen a rise in the last few

But surely this marketing madness is coming

years of the anti-hoppy beer; the we-didn’t-

to an end? As more niche malt is produced in

hop-this-one-as-much beer; the “session ale.”

Canada; as farmers, maltsters, and brewers

Thesis meet antithesis.

learn more about the effects of different malts

The term session ale is frustrating for many

on beer; as we start appreciating malt as an

reasons mostly because, honestly, sessions

important and delicious part of beer making in

aren’t cool. Think about it: jam sessions at

its own right and stop referring to everything

a party, rap sessions with the vice principal,

that hasn’t been hopped to within an inch

economic recessions, Jeff Sessions—to name

of its life as “sessionable;” we might just see

a few. Things get even worse when the word is

Canadian hopheads and malt enthusiasts

shortened to “sesh.”*

reach a peaceable synthesis, for Fichte’s sake. *Except in the case of Jeff Sessions. Jeff Sesh is hilarious.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Contributors

Nick Blagrave Writer & editor Born on the east coast, Nick Blagrave has been slowly moving west ever since. After graduating university he spent four years pursuing higher education in the downtown Kingston bar scene. He now works as a copywriter and lives in Toronto. Kelly Brisson Writer, photographer Kelly Brisson is a Food Writer, Recipe Developer & Photographer residing in Ottawa, ON. She lives with her husband and daughter in the neighbourhood of Wellington West and enjoys eating and cooking her way through the vast markets and eateries in the area. When not cooking, she can generally be found puttering around in the dirt in the backyard garden or sipping a cold drink with a good book. Erica Campbell Writer Erica lives in Toronto and works in Sales & Events for Collective Arts Brewing based in Hamilton. She is co-founder and co-organizer of The Society of Beer Drinking Ladies. She has completed Level III of the Prud’Homme Beer Certification and does regular beer education workshops and events throughout Ontario.

julia duchesne Writer, environmentalist Julia Duchesne has lived in Toronto, Halifax, and the UK and now calls Whitehorse home. She works for a grassroots environmental organization in the Yukon. She loves getting outdoors and enjoying a good pint.

Ben Johnson Writer & editor Ben maintains the popular website Ben’s Beer Blog and was voted the “The Best Beer Writer in Ontario” at the 2014, 2015, and 2016 Golden Tap Awards. His writing about beer, politics, and the places where the two intertwine has appeared in The Globe and Mail, Toronto Life, Post City, blogTO, and Torontoist. Since April 2017, his southwestOntario focused beer column, Full Pour, has appeared biweekly in the publication Our London.

Jason Foster Writer & educator

Jason Foster is the beer columnist for CBC Radio in Edmonton and writes for a variety of magazines and outlets. He is also the creator of onbeer.org, a website devoted to craft beer on the prairies. He has been a homebrewer for more than 25 years and is a National Ranked BJCP beer judge.

Robin LeBlanc Journalist & author Robin LeBlanc is an awardwinning beer writer, owner of the thethirstywench.com, and the coauthor of The Ontario Craft Beer Guide, in stores now. She lives in Toronto. Robin is also part of the MASH Beer

Noah Forrest Writer & educator

Noah Forrest is the creator of the Beerism blog where he reviews, examines, and provides information about beer, food, breweries, and the beer community in general, with a special emphasis on Québec. He lives in Montréal.

Review Panel. Crystal Luxmore Writer & editor Crystal is a professional journalist, Certified Cicerone, a Certified BCJP Judge and co-founder of Beer Sisters. Her stories on beer appear in the Globe & Mail, Toronto Life, Beer Advocate, ELLE Canada and on her own website, beersisters.com. She has appeared as a beer expert on CBC TV and radio, CTV and Global TV. Crystal leads guided tastings and workshops for corporate clients and at beer festivals across North America. Talk beer to her on Twitter @crystalluxmore, and on Instagram @beersisters.

Paul Gilbert Creative director, photographer Paul Gilbert is an art director who takes pictures on the side. He has worked all over the world. But nowhere is closer to his heart than a craft beer tasting bar in Canada.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

History

Alan McLeod First order of business upon landing...

A cure for mutiny (and illness).

hate records. I depend on them for

ic crews were shipping on the Baltic Sea and

France? The first official English mercantile

researching Canada’s early brewing history

first sharing the gift of hopped beer with the

settlement in Newfoundland was the Ferry-

but at the same time, I hate them. Records

ports they visited. And we see it in the re-

land colony founded in 1610 near modern

are, often, our only windows into the past,

cords of the 1577 expedition led by Martyn

day Cupids, NL. Residents still live there

but, if something wasn’t recorded in the first

Frobisher to Canada’s Arctic.

who are descended from the plantation's

place or, if the record was later destroyed, those windows can quickly become walls.

As the first explorations turned into ten-

original settlers. The archeological record

tative settlements, the question becomes

shows that by 1613 a dedicated brew house

The question of where beer was first

less about who had packed beer for the trip

had been built. Prior to that, basic ale could

brewed in Canada is affected by the state of

and more about who was brewing in these

certainly have been easily made in the plan-

the records. Respected writers like Sneath,

new communities. If we’re honest, we might

tation’s food preparation spaces. Years ago,

Pashley, and Rubin all mention the brew-

expect that the unrecorded brewing of beer

another beer history fan told me that there

ers in 17th century Québec as being our first.

in Canada was happening as soon as Euro-

is even a variety of old English hops grow-

Hebert (1617), Ambroise (1646), and Talon

peans set up a tent on shore. If that is the

ing wild on the site of the archaeological dig.

(1670) are well recorded as being the first to

case, it was part of the first Viking colonies

This evidence suggests an earlier date for the

make beer or sell it to the thirsty colonists

in Newfoundland a thousand years ago.

first brewing in Canada by about five years.

of New France. But there is a problem with

But here we do not have a record. Further,

But there might be an even earlier first

that story. It leaves a gap.

the sagas tell of grapes being exported to

date. Richard Whitbourne was a veteran of

Northern Europeans have enjoyed beer

the Greenland colony. Perhaps they were

the battle with the Spanish Armada in 1588

for centuries. Early explorers working their

drinking wine? Controlling a supply of wine

who went on to spend thirty years involved

way across the ocean depended on it for a

would be prestigious in Viking society. Still,

with the Elizabethan whaling fleets and col-

safe source of water as well as a defender

the archeological record shows evidence of

onization of Newfoundland. Writing about

against afflictions like scurvy or, perhaps,

small scale metalworking and smelting. It’s

his experiences seeking fortune in 1620,

even more dangerously, mutiny. Where

hard to imagine that they weren’t having ale

he described how they relied upon beer

people traveled by ship, there is almost al-

as part of their daily diet. We just don't have

mixed with herbs as a tonic. The cold North

ways some sort of alcohol – wine, cider, or

the records. Yet.

Atlantic, he wrote, was no place for those

beer - being commonly recorded in the

Can we find documents or other evidence

Englishmen accustomed to their tobacco,

ships’ provisions. We see this, for example,

going back to a point before 1617, pre-dating

strong ale or double beer by the warm tav-

in the 1400’s where beer drinking Hanseat-

when we know Hebert was brewing in New

ern fire. Some, however, found a way to live

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Behind the Pint Chapter 001

The inaugural issue of Mash Magazine shared the story of the Society of Beer Drinking Ladies. Behind the Pint will scour craft breweries, bottle shops, tap rooms, brew pubs, craft beer pubs, and retail stores from coast-to-coast to check in with passionate ladies making a name for themselves; women explicitly and implicitly breaking down barriers and stereotypes along the way in this often male-dominated industry. In Chapter 001 meet Jen Reinhardt, one of SOBDL’s three founders who have hustled (for lack of a better term) in the Ontario craft beer scene for many years to promote the industry and the SOBDL. J e n n R e i n h a r d t , SOBDL

evening switches to bars and restaurants, stopping in to make sure our beer is tasting fresh and creating beer samplings and event experiences. It truly is a dream job! What do you love about the beer industry?

What was the hardest part of starting out repping beer?

When you’re not beer hustlin’ with Muskoka, we can find you... ?

How has the climate improved?

I love how connected the craft beer industry is. It is probably one of the few industries where we are friends and work with other breweries. It has a real community feel and that makes me feel a part of something creative and great!

Working on future Society of Beer Drinking Ladies events, cooking up new recipes in the kitchen and hosting get-togethers! My social nature extends into my personal life and I love doing my own food and beer pairings!

What’s the food and beer pairing You just have to share?

I love to do a rich Beemster cheese with a nice bitter IPA! What is the first step to A SOBDL bevy event?

Our bevys are volunteer run. We are very lucky to have a team of committed ladies who come and make our events run smoothly, so my first step is reaching out to volunteers for our event. Today’s big Beer Trend?

Society of Beer Drinking Ladies (@ ladiesdrinkbeer): Owner/Director since November 2013; Muskoka Brewery (@muskokabrewery) Sales Rep since May 2015 W o r k s at:

What led you to beer?

I started as a craft beer fanatic and began homebrewing and working on a beer blog in 2013. I would attend many craft beer events, meet other sales reps and then write stories about our experiences. I also took Level I & II of the Prud’homme Beer Certification Program which taught me the language of beer tasting and helped further connect me with people in the industry. What is your day-to-day like?

I work from my home office and my day starts bright and early, following up on calls and emails. Then I get out into the field of West End Toronto, visiting our retail partners and growing my business. Then my afternoon/

received so much support from women in the industry who want me to succeed and who share my passion for beer.

I know that we will definitely get to enjoy more sour beers this summer. It has been an increasingly growing beer category and I am seeing some really cool beers being produced when I visit breweries and festivals. Muskoka is releasing our first sour, Summertime Siesta - a dry hopped kettle sour, through our Moonlight Kettle Series in July, so look out for that one! Your top 3 sours right now?

One of my absolute favourite beers is Rodenbach Vintage! Some other sours I have enjoyed recently are Bellwoods Brewery’s Cherry Jelly King and Indie Ale House’s Spadina Monkey. I like a well-balanced subtle sour beer. Who do you look up to?

I started in the industry a few years ago and I think since then I have noticed a real camaraderie with women in the industry. We seek each other out and band together. talk shop: your favourite Muskoka beer?

I’ve got to say, I am extremely lucky to work for a brewery that produces so many delicious beers. I have a beer for every mood and I love to change things up. I love my Mad Tom IPA and Shinnicked Stout, BUT am very excited to drink Ruff Draught* this July! It’s a tropical blonde ale that we brewed in collaboration with the Born Ruffians last summer for Session Toronto. Our beer won best beer, so will be in the LCBO this summer and I am excited to enjoy lots of those in the sunshine! Spreading some love around, what are your favourite non-Muskoka brewed craft beers?

I love a good APA so there is always Great Lakes Canuck in my fridge as well as Rainhard Armed n’ Citra. I also love Collective Arts #2 and Ransack the Universe! *When this interview was conducted, we were all still looking forward to July. We’re sorry if you missed your chance to try Ruff Draught. The Society of Beer Drinking Ladies is a Toronto- Based company running regular events for women in beerv and, the first and largest women’s craft beer festival in north america. We always donate to our friends at the Canadian Women’s Foundation and provide a safe, inclusive space for women to enjoy and explore local food and craft beer.

Honestly, there are too many to name! I look up to the lady beer reps who have been in the industry for some time. Since I started with Muskoka as my second career in 2015, I have M A S H M a g a z in e

I have been treated quite well as a woman in the industry. I have had support from many people in the industry and haven’t noticed any challenges related to my gender. Beer repping is all about relationships, so it takes time to build a rapport when you first start out.

September October

2017

info@ladiesdrinkbeer.com, www. ladiesdrinkbeer.com, follow along on social media @ladiesdrinkbeer & grab our swag at www.etsy.com/shop/ladiesdrinkbeer.

Nick Blagrave

What’s in a name?

Ready for a fight?

Octopus vulgaris. C

raft breweries got their start

shocking our sleeping taste buds with beers that were as unexpected as they were carefully crafted, but we’ve entered an age

other way around. Settle down, Hufflepuffs,

sis was averted. The batch was saved. But a

I’m not talking about wands.

batch of what? Great Lakes Brewery had an

I’m talking about Great Lakes Brewery’s “Octopus Wants to Fight IPA.”

anonymous beer on their hands. The imminent IPA needed a name. When the afore-

where a robust flavour isn’t enough to pro-

Anyone who’s ever endeavoured to

mentioned herbal tactics resulted in noth-

pel any old ale to the top of carefully crafted

brew beer knows that it involves a grueling

ing but dry mouths, it looked as if the team

beer lists or consumers’ minds.

schedule, often involving late nights or early

was going to have to commission a label for a

It’s delicious, yes, but it needs a name.

mornings, as well as an exacting attention

John and Jane Doe IPA.

If Gwyneth Paltrow can name her kid

to detail – a balance that is tenuous at the

Enter Troy Burtch, GLB’s Marketing and

Apple, then brewers can name their beers

best of times. So, when the team at Great

Communications Manager. Perusing social

anything. But why – and how – do they

Lakes Brewery found themselves ready, at

media at the presidential hour of 12am, Troy

settle on the names they do? Sipping on

4am, to add hops to a mash tun full of boiled

came across a picture of a coat hook under

a particularly punny Pilsner, or enjoying

malt destined to become their popular

a bar, captioned, simply: “I think this drunk

a double entendre double IPA, I’ve often

Karma Citra (American Style IPA), with

octopus wants to fight me.”

wondered about the story inside the stein.

the Citra hops they needed nowhere in

“At first I thought it was pretty funny,”

sight, an understandable ripple of concern

Troy says, “but it didn’t take long for me to

a 2-4 (if not a keg’s) worth of stories about

was felt throughout the brewery. Rousing

realize that it was more than that. It was our

bongs being passed around breweries, and

Production Development Brewer Mike

new name.” Troy shopped the idea to his

brewers trying to make each other laugh.

Lackey from his well-earned slumber, the

teammates, who responded enthusiastical-

There’s no shortage of anecdotes about

team demanded that he tell them where the

ly with “drop the ‘drunk,’ and we’re in busi-

how a certain mellow strain gave name to

hops were hidden. Ideally quickly.

ness.” Octopus Wants to Fight IPA was born.

Obviously, for every great story there’s

a certain mellow session ale, or how a pipe-

With the hops needed for the intended

While GLB’s Octopus Wants to Fight IPA

fuelled naming process might differ from

IPA completely MIA, Lackey recognized

has its origin in a couple of pints and a coat

something more tightly rolled.

this as his chance to play with Mosaic hops.

hook, unlike the drunken octopus for which

But, sometimes, as I had hoped, the right

He set about concocting a blend of other

it was named, it’s one IPA that doesn’t pull

name finds the right beer, instead of the

hops to complement the Mosaic.So the cri-

any punches.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Alberta Malts Jason Foster

“We were surprised that you couldn’t make all-barley beer with only Canadian ingredients. That was the start.” — Matt Hamill, Red shed Malting

lberta makes some of the best malting

The Hamills were struck with the inspiration to start malting

barley in the world. Renowned American craft brewers Lagunitas

shortly after Joe started home brewing. Mr. Hamill noticed

and New Belgium specifically contract Alberta farmers to produce

the egregious amounts his son was paying for malt at the local

their barley. The province’s two large-scale malting plants, Rahr

homebrew store and couldn’t believe it. They did some research

Malting in Alix (near Red Deer) and Canada Malting in Calgary,

and realized how dependent local breweries were on imported

are widely respected for their quality base malt, the lightly-kilned-

specialty malt. “We were surprised that you couldn’t make all-

stuff that serves as the majority-malt of just about every beer style.

barley beer with only Canadian ingredients,” Matt says. “That was

Most Western Canadian brewers rely heavily on Rahr and

the start.”

Canada Malting for their base malt, but to get good specialty malts

Matt says they also realized the timing was right. Their plans

– the malts that add colour, body and flavour to a beer – they’re

started three years ago. “The provincial rules just changed to

forced to look primarily to Germany, Britain, and the United States.

make it easier to open a small brewery and the new Olds College

Luckily, that may be changing. Over the last year, the province has

Brewmaster program was churning out new professional brewers.”

seen the rise of a new industry: craft malting.

Red Shed can malt two and a half tonnes of barley per batch and

Craft malting companies, just like their beer brewing compatriots,

at the time of writing they have the capacity to produce about 250

are small-scale and produce unique, flavourful offerings. They re-

tonnes per year. “Rahr Malting makes more malt in a day than we

insert the spirit of artisanal creation into the business of malting, a

can make all year,” Matt says, giving a good idea of how small they

business that has been an industrial-level affair for a very long time.

are compared to the traditional maltsters. And Matt’s not kidding;

While the United States has approximately 50 malt houses

Rahr produces as much as 140,000 tonnes per year.

producing artisanal, craft malts, the practice is in its infancy

Red Shed Malting wants to “focus on specialty malts,” says

in Canada. Red Shed Malting - open just over a year – is the

Hamill, noting a substantial hole in the market. “We also want to

pioneering force in Alberta. Just outside of Red Deer, Red Shed

explore the effect of different varieties of malt on the taste of beer,”

Malting is a real family operation. Owned by two brothers, Matt

he adds. Most beer drinkers are familiar with hop varieties and

and Joe Hamill, the malt house is located on the farm of their

their impact on beer character. The ways in which different types

father, a fourth generation barley farmer.

of barley can affect flavour are much less widely understood. As the M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Waste not,

want not.

Kelly Brisson

ood waste is a problem that most people are aware of but like

many big-picture world problems, creates a feeling of helplessness or, at best, paralysis. This can be an even more profound problem for craft breweries founded on principles of sustainability and social responsibility, who find themselves, at the end of any given

“Every thousand pounds

brew day, with heaps of soaking wet grain. If you break down the beer-making process into it’s simplest

of the spent grain brought

form, it looks something like this: boil a bunch of malted barley

here is another thousand

with water and hops, cool it all down, add some yeast, and let every-

pounds of organic matter that helps build our soils and increase the fertility of the farm.“

thing ferment for a couple of weeks. With any luck, if you’ve done your job right, at the end of this process you’ll have a batch of drinkable beer with a whole whack of what is referred to in the industry as “spent grain” left over. And though this grain has done its job at the brewery, it’s anything but spent. In most cases, “spent grain” makes up a huge percentage of a

— morgan alger, Salt of the Earth

brewery’s waste and often goes straight to the landfill. This doesn’t sit right for many, especially those who go to great measures to use eco-friendly, sustainable ingredients and practices. And, while there are many possible uses for spent grain both in the kitchen and in the field, Salt of the Earth Farm, situated in Kingston, Ontario, prefer to use their donated grain primarily for livestock. “Every thousand pounds of the spent grain brought here is another thousand pounds of organic matter that helps build our soils and increase the fertility of the farm. The animals are a big part of what we are trying to do in terms of healthy, regenerative farming that builds up our land to support our crops, the local ecology, and ourselves,” explains Morgan Alger, co-owner of Salt of the Earth

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

“When Charles harvests the livestock fed on our spent grain, we always purchase meat from him to use in our kitchen. His market garden is also

C h a r l e s S u m m e r s, S a lt o f T h e E a rt h

beautiful – we use his produce in our kitchen as often as we can.” — Mallory Jones, Stone City Ales

farm. She and her partner Charles Summers began the laborious

but after a day things get a little funky. Spent grain can spoil very

task of starting their farm in the Fall of 2013 and much like their

quickly, which poses a problem if you produce moderate amounts

offerings, they have flourished since then. One of the most mutually

of leftover grain and don’t have an interested farm a short drive

beneficial connections they made in their first few years was with,

away. For larger breweries, there’s the issue of having too much

of all places, a brewery. The team at Kingston craft brewery Stone

grain for small local farms. There is the option to dry the grain out

City Ales was introduced to the farm through mutual acquaintances

and package it in air-tight containers to make it shelf-stable, but

and it didn’t take long for a relationship built on a passion for

some breweries would argue that this practice would be done at a

community, respect for the land they live on, and of course, good

loss of time, money, and energy, making the valiant environmental

food and drink to take root.

effort effectively a zero-sum game.

It’s a relationship that Mallory Jones, Sales, Marketing, and

There are a handful of breweries that opt to sell or trade their

Operations Manager at Stone City Ales, values beyond the mundane

spent grain to home cooks or chefs looking to experiment with the

task of getting rid of waste. “ This relationship is…symbiotic and we

flavourful, nutritionally dense grains. When ground into flour, it

really are proud of that.” She says. “Our spent grain doesn’t go to

can be used in addition to white flour to create bread, cookies, pizza

waste, and in return has a huge impact for a local farm that’s very

dough, or pretzels and it boasts plenty of fibre and protein, making

connected to the community. When Charles harvests the livestock

it a great addition to health food items like energy bars. Unfortu-

fed on our spent grain, we always purchase meat from him to use

nately, breweries can run into regulatory issues when trying to sell

in our kitchen. His market garden is also beautiful – we use his

such packaged items, as was the case with Covered Bridge Brewing

produce in our kitchen as often as we can.” The malt really comes

in Stittsville. In 2015, they came up with the idea to sell Spent Grain

full circle for both farm and brewery.

Dog Biscuits in support of a local animal shelter, but were stopped

The spent grain that remains after beer is produced isn’t only

by the Alcohol and Gaming Commission of Ontario because the

benefitting farms from a food quantity perspective, but rather, it’s

biscuits were not on the list of items approved to be sold in their

the nutritional quality of the feed that really matters. It’s protein

store. It’s a problem begging for a solution, a better way to do things

and fibre rich as well as low in carbohydrates, and it increases what

moving forward so that sustainable practices can become the norm

the farm has to feed its animals over the colder months, “[the spent

in the brewing industry.

grain] undoubtedly helps us get through the winter by supplement-

Whether it’s selling or donating to a farm in need, adding it to

ing the animals’ hay or grain, which means less cost for us and more

your garden or compost, or finding uses for it in the kitchen, spent

food for them,” Morgan explains. “The best part is that all the animals

grain has a lot left to give after playing its part at the brewery. And

love it, there is a picture we put on social media of the chickens choos-

while, ultimately the goal is to produce beer and make money,

ing the Stone City Ales spent grains over their normal chicken feed”.

figuring out how to repurpose the byproduct of your brews and

At this point you might be wondering why all breweries don’t

cultivate a relationship based on trade and community - like Stone

engage in this practice. The issue for many small breweries often

City Ales and Salt of The Earth have done - is both a sustainable

comes down to space - or lack thereof - and logistics. Wet grain,

and altruistic way to support the land that we sustain ourselves and

which is the form spent grain takes, is good for about 24 hours,

build our lives on.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Craft contract brewing.

dam Chatburn handles the full range of

responsibilities at Callister Brewing Company in East Vancouver. He orders grain, hops, and yeast. He mills the grain, mashes in. He monitors the fermentation of his beer both in the tank and in

Jan Zeschky

other brewing teams, Night Owl Brewing and Morningstar Brewing and Lightheart Brewing. They’ve each signed one-year contracts to share the brewhouse (and bar duties) with Callister, which owns the manufacturing licence.

the cask, like any English cellarman worth his grain. He promotes

This collaborative brewing model, unique to Canada, serves as

his ale, seals accounts, and delivers the beer himself. Two days

a training ground for those seeking to take their first steps in the

a week he mans the bar in Callister’s tasting room, pulling impe-

industry. Each brewing team pays $15,000 to sign on and enjoys a

rial pints of his bitter and mild from beer engines, explaining the

50/50 revenue share with Callister. The five-hectolitre brewhouse

cask-conditioned concept behind his brand to customers.

is small enough to not be daunting, but big enough to serve the oc-

But that brand is called Real Cask, not Callister. At first blush, it

casional draught account and the needs of the brewery’s weekend

might appear that Chatburn is one of the dozens of contract brew-

crowds, who are drawn to the lounge by the opportunity to drink

ers that have attempted to crack Canada’s increasingly competitive

source-fresh beer from four breweries under one roof.

craft beer market.

“If they’re going to go off and start their own brewery they really

Broadly speaking – and “broadly” is the only way to concisely define a brewing model that’s subject to varying provincial laws –

need to have a sense of the entire process,” says Callister co-owner Diana McKenzie, who makes a range of sodas at the brewery.

these contract brewers (and “nomad” brewers who rove from brew-

“The idea was to give largely homebrewers but really anyone

ery to brewery) don’t have their own facilities, so they pay to com-

who was looking to start a brewery that level of professional and

mandeer equipment at a host brewery.

commercial experience and to understand what really goes into it

But the Callister model is different. At the time of writing, Chatburn is a temporary shareholder of the brewery along with two M A S H M a g a z in e

– what are the risks and challenges – and to get that education from hands-on experience throughout the process.” September October

2017

Chatburn has signed two year-long contracts with Callister since it opened in 2015 and is mulling a third. He’s found the experience rewarding.

also been hired by several contract breweries, including Double Trouble Brewing Co., to develop their products. “It gives you a fast start. It saves you a tremendous amount of ini-

“It’s given me a range of skills but also a clearer idea of what I

tial investment. If you choose properly, you have very good product

don’t want going forward. I think that’s a big part of it,” he says.

control and quality control right off the bat. It makes a lot of sense, I

“And the range of things to do stops you getting bored. So while it’s

think, rather than starting quite small then finding you’ve got some

a shame to be losing my Friday nights working, I get to spend them

success and find you’ve got to increase the size of your operation.”

working in the tasting room. I work with good people, chat to people, talk about the beers we’re pouring.”

But, as craft beer has grown in popularity, a more hands-off approach to contract brewing has appeared; some would say a more

Just a kilometre south down Clark Drive, another, very differ-

profit-driven approach (even though the very idea of making a prof-

ent model of brewery is rising. The floors at Factory Brewing are

it from craft beer elicits a wry laugh from most brewery owners). The

painted clay red in preparation for the arrival of a canning line and

people behind these companies generally create a brand, identify the

almost 30 fermentation tanks, which will service a brewhouse 10

type of beer they want to sell, hire a brewer to make it and then focus

times the size of Callister’s.

on marketing and sales. It’s an approach that jars with some.

But when it comes online (the first beer was scheduled for mid-

“I think there’s a difference between people who go out and cre-

June) you won’t find Factory brand beer to buy anywhere. Instead,

ate a brewery or who are in the process of creating a brewery and

Factory will exclusively provide a full range of services – from

someone who says, ‘I’m going to try this,’ then, ‘I don’t like this, I’m

brewing to packaging to marketing – for contract brewers and es-

going to try the next fad,’” says Ken Woods, owner and president

tablished breweries who want to increase their output. It’s a one-

of Black Oak Brewing Co. in Toronto, which has hosted contract

stop brewery-for-hire helmed by Andres Palma, a German-trained

breweries in the past.

brewer with a quarter-century of experience, including director of brewing at Molson Coors Canada.

“A lot of people are jumping on the bandwagon, saying, ‘oh it’s so easy, we’ll make a beer and it’ll sell.’ … If it’s a contract brewery, a lot

They may be geographically close, but Callister and Factory are

of the time it’s marketing people trying to ride the wave.”

polar opposites on the spectrum of host breweries. Callister offers

Unfortunately, many contract breweries have now been tarred

a low-cost introduction for fledgling brands who may want to later

with the same brush. They’ve been charged with cashing in, making

pursue contract brewing; Factory, on the other hand, is the logical

an inferior product, and lacking the authenticity of beer made in its

end point, a solution to contract brewing and its surge in populari-

own dedicated brewery.

ty for brewers. That popularity is, ironically, beginning to threaten

“The bloggers all tend to think that contract brewers are sec-

the model’s very viability, with less and less available tank space

ond-class citizens,” Dickey says. “But it’s interesting on the other

across the country.

side of the coin. The owners of Double Trouble, for example, nev-

Factory isn’t the first operation in Canada to solely brew contract beer. It almost certainly won’t be the last. Brunswick Bierworks and Common Good Beer Co., near-neighbours in Toronto’s Scarborough district, have been open for about a year, but both are already turning away potential clients, their fermenters full.

er enter competitions. In fact, they gauge their success by the cash register – and who can argue with that?” The stigma associated with contract brewing is unfair, agrees Brunswick Bierworks vice-president Mike Laba. “I think there’s a mindset of in order to be classified as a true

Contract brewing has taken off in Ontario like nowhere else in

brewery you’ve got to have bricks and mortar. But there’s the other

the country. The Ontario Beverage Network currently lists 67 con-

side, that I want a truly quality product. I see both sides,” Laba says.

tract brewers, brands, and labels, with most having been active for

“I see some brands out of here [Brunswick] that employ more

less than two or three years.

people than some breweries in Ontario, so from an employment

Of course, many more over the years have gone on to set up their

standpoint you can see both sides. There are brands brewed out of

own breweries. It’s the commonly cited goal of those who start out

here that have won awards that are top quality, and there are brands

contract brewing, which allows wannabe breweries to get their beer

that are bricks and mortar that are subpar. But the same story can

to market, establish a reputation and a brand, and create a track re-

be told the other way around.”

cord to interest investors and sway bank managers to help finance

Brunswick, Common Good and Factory are all aiming to

four walls. (In the overheated real estate markets of Toronto and

elevate the concept of contract in terms of quality and freshness.

Vancouver, it wouldn’t be surprising if the roof was an optional extra.)

At Brunswick, Laba says that starts with a conversation about

“It’s an easy way to get into the work. It’s a way to get your product

a brand’s expectations, then dissecting beer recipes to identify

known while you’re looking for investors who will help you develop

possible challenges or improvements. A date is scheduled for the

that brand,” says Paul Dickey, a brewer with decades of experience

contract brewer to make their beer on a 20-hectolitre system first,

who set up his own contract brand, Cheshire Valley Brewing. He’s

in order to determine its quality. Then it’s scaled up to the brewery’s

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

50-hectolitre system, with brewers invited to help out whenever they want and lab reports always available.

For Lost Craft’s founder, Shehan De Silva, the award was the ideal riposte to his critics.

Basically, contract brewing doesn’t have to be a dirty secret anymore.

“The beer purists or beer snobs definitely look down on contract

“I think one of the elements of contract brewing in the past is

brewing. That’s just a fact,” De Silva says. “The one that I hear the

there’s that iron curtain – we don’t want you to see what’s brewed

most is a lack of a commitment. To me that’s a joke. I started the

here, we don’t want you to see that we’re brewing at another facility

company with my life savings. I would have lost everything if Lost

– whereas here, we get consent from all of our brands that we can

Craft wasn’t successful. It’s personally insulting when I hear that as

promote on social media and discuss it,” Laba says.

an argument.

Brunswick and Common Good’s bid to raise the bar for contract

“The next thing [I hear] is the beer isn’t that good, they don’t

brands in Ontario has only contributed to the growing success of

know what they’re doing. We just won best in show in Ontario. So,

those brands.

tell me, what’s your next reason? What’s your next problem?”

Leading the way has been Lost Craft, whose Revivale lagered ale was named a customer favourite for 2016 by the Liquor

De Silva is justifiably proud of his success in a tricky segment of the industry.

Control Board of Ontario. The brand received another ringing

“The margins in contract brewing are slim. There are a lot of people

endorsement in April, when Revivale was named best in show

who try it out and think it’s easy, but it’s not. … You’d better have a really

at the Ontario Brewing Awards, leading a field of more than 200

good product, you’d better be smart with how you spend your market-

beers critiqued by BJCP judges.

ing dollars. It’s not easy to be successful as a contract brewery.” M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Lost Craft is now planning to open its own facility as the brand

10 times the size they made at Callister are now being brewed at

begins to outgrow its contracts at Brunswick and Common Good.

Strathcona Brewing Company. “[Now] there’s an opportunity to

Yet it seems that for every contract brand that moves into its own

make some money. We previously both had full-time jobs; now, this

brewery, another two appear.

is Matt’s full-time job.”

“Contract brewing isn’t going away – in fact, it’s only growing,” De Silva says. It may actually be reaching saturation point in Ontario.

“When you contract brew, if you’re profitable and you make money right away and you’re using someone else’s space, you don’t have any capital costs. So that profit can be realized. Whereas if you

That fact is even more striking when making a comparison to

open a brewery, the owners are constantly taking the money they

BC, another craft beer hotbed in Canada, where despite a recent

make and reinvesting it. … For us, because we’re not doing any of

increase in interest, contract brewing is still relatively rare.

that, it actually does make some financial sense.”

There are several potential reasons for this lag.

But as four-packs of Superflux cans disappear quickly from BC

In a beer market where craft brewers now command more than

shelves, Henderson and Kohlen are starting to feel the volume con-

20 per cent of sales by volume, British Columbians take evident

straints at Strathcona. Now they’re actively looking for their own place.

pride in going to the source. The tasting room or brewery lounge

Henderson hits on probably the major reason for contract brew-

has become ingrained in BC’s beer scene, to the point where any

ing’s relative lack of popularity in BC. “It took Matt and me a long

brewery without one is deemed incomplete. In terms of geography,

time to find somebody who had space,” he says. “There are very few

it’s easier to go to the source in BC than it is in Ontario, with clusters

places [in BC] to do it. The beer scene is so great right now that ev-

of breweries appearing in Vancouver and Victoria and smaller

eryone’s busy. The reason why no one makes any money is that ev-

cities such as Abbotsford, Nelson, Port Moody and Squamish. The

eryone’s reinvesting that money, everyone’s growing.

very concept of the BC Ale Trail tourism initiative plays on the

“That’s why Factory Brewing is opening, they see a need and I

accessibility of the province’s breweries, while many more remote

think it’s a very real need. The capital costs of starting up a brewery

communities have opened their own breweries, which quickly

are huge. You have guys who have the passion, but not necessarily

become community hubs.

the money, and they’re trying to look for investment. So, starting

Without resorting to tired West Coast hippy stereotypes, it’s not

your own brand and making your own beer that you can show to

a stretch to say that many British Columbians like to know where

investors to see how your brand and beer will perform, that’s im-

things come from; if they can visit the source, all the better. It

portant in so many ways.”

means contract brewing is likely to be viewed with a little bit more suspicion by beer drinkers.

While contract breweries will be welcomed at Factory, the focus will be on increasing capacity for existing breweries, says spokesman

Then there are BC’s infamous liquor laws, which, though relaxed in recent years, remain frustratingly obdurate when a new model

Stephen Smysnuik. This in itself will drive more innovation in the craft beer scene by freeing up the host brewery’s space.

of producing alcohol comes along. In fact, after years of contract

“Factory is designed for smaller craft breweries who have

breweries operating in a grey area of provincial law, the rules

reached capacity and don’t want to or are unable to expand. We’re

around the process were only clarified in January of this year.

a capacity solution. We brew their drivers, bottle, can, take care of

It’s unsurprising, then, that a concept as progressive as Callister took a lot of background work. McKenzie spent six months drawing up a viable business plan to make the idea of the collaborative brewery fly with BC’s Liquor Control and Licensing Board.

all the back-end stuff so they can play, experiment, innovate and expand their business at the home facility,” Smysnuik says. This, of course, has drawn interest from many of the province’s smaller breweries. That includes one of Vancouver’s smallest,

But the results have been worth it. The educational experience of

Doan’s Craft Brewing Company, which will see its three core

brewing at Callister is starting to pay off for some of its alumni, with

products – kölsch, rye IPA and rye stout – brewed at Factory. Co-

contract brewing offering the next stepping stone toward a brew-

owner Evan Doan says it’s a “dream come true” for his brewery,

ery. Lightheart is already eyeing up its own space for a possible 2018

where two out of every three batches he currently brews are kölsch.

opening, while Boombox, which hasn’t renewed with Callister, is

“It allows us to take away that core and allows us to have more

pursuing other options.

fun at our location; getting other breweries or homebrewers in and

Then there’s Superflux Beer Company (formerly Machine Ales) which has enjoyed a surge in popularity since it left Callister in

doing collabs and doing the beers we wouldn’t normally be able to do,” Doan says.

2016 and began brewing its cloudy IPAs under contract at other

Doan’s plans to brew 2,000 hectolitres a year at Factory, more

Vancouver breweries. Superflux co-owners Adam Henderson and

than double production at its tiny facility on Powell Street. It will

Matt Kohlen have found that contract brewing can be a viable op-

give the brewery canned product for the first time, and move their

tion in BC, even if only in the short term.

product across BC, into Alberta and possibly the U.S., Doan says.

“Callister is restricted by the amount of beer you could possi-

Doan appears relaxed and excited about his brewery’s relationship

bly make,” says Henderson, who says batches of Superflux beer

with Factory, which is pitched as more of a collaborative experience,

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

C h r i s L ay, C a ll i st e r

its brewers effectively assistants to the brewer who signed the contract. He says he talked through his recipes with Palma for around three hours to nail them down on a bigger system, and adds that he’ll be attending every brew day and tasting for quality control. “I’ve had absolutely no negative thoughts toward it… They’re literally there to help us. They’re not changing our recipe or forcing our hand to do anything. We’re just there to receive a volume boost. They’re putting their heart and soul into it and in that sense it’s very much craft beer. Which makes me smile the biggest smile.” Even though his cask-conditioned brand isn’t conducive to a business like Factory, Chatburn, too, is optimistic about the facility and has nothing but praise for its team, including local brewers like head of operations Rick Dellow, co-founder of Vancouver’s R&B Brewing. But Chatburn, a former president of consumer advocacy group CAMRA Vancouver, also sounds a few words of warning about what such large-scale facilities might mean for the craft beer industry. “I think we’re going to hit a bit of a crossroads at this point, where we start to see this larger distribution and wholesale manufacturing rather than the artisanal, small-batch, family aspect to some of the breweries like Callister or Doan’s … I think that that’s something that people can make a lot of money out of if they wanted to without a lot of it flowing back to the brewery,” Chatburn says. But Doan, looking at precedent in the U.S., is hopeful that all-contract operations such as Brunswick, Common Good, and Factory can not only invigorate the reputation of contract brewing, but also take craft beer’s market share to a new level. “The same thing happened in the States 10 to 12 years ago. And it was a very good thing because all of a sudden you created different beers and a lot more acceptability and it drove the prices down lower,” Doan says. “So, all those people picking up PBR, Bud, Coors, they were able to pick up craft beer for only a dollar or two more … So I think the exact same thing is going to happen, you’re going to see an increase in consumption rate and prices will go down a little bit more.” “I think it’s a really good thing for the industry as a whole because it gets craft beer into more people’s hands and more people to see it as a positive.” M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Last

Photo previous page courtesy: Mckinnon Brothers Brewing Co.

P r e v i o u s pag e : A n d r e w W e e l , D a n i e l M a c K i n n o n , B e n Va n d e r b e r g , Iva n M ac K i n n o n

Sure, the thinking was there: If I can have

Miller Seed Farm has been owned and op-

Daniel Mackinnon offers are a testament

Seed to Sausage bacon for breakfast; if I can

erated by the Mackinnon family since 1784.

to his schooling in brewing and distilling

have crunchy Pan Chancho bread, baked in

For nigh on the last 40 years, the Mack-

at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh,

the heart of downtown Kingston, with that

innon family has been growing corn, soy-

and the entire crew’s dedication to growing

bacon, if I can have fresh made pasta from

beans, wheat, oats, and feed barley on their

their own ingredients – a labour of love

Pasta Genova for lunch; if the bartender

farm. They added malting barley to their

started in 2010, four years before their first

at Chez Piggy – a dinner destination for

line-up in 2014, for the purposes of brewing

barroom pint would be poured.

Ontarians since it was opened by the

their own beer with hand-grown ingredi-

In the last three years the Mackinnon

Lovin’ Spoonful’s Zal Yanovsky and his

ents, and, as Ivan tells me, malting barley

Brothers Brewing Co. has proven that a

second wife Rose Richardson in 1979 – is

now makes up about 5% of their 1300-acre

solid malt backbone and a dedication to

making his own soda syrups for deadly

farm. With yields of 1 to 1.5 tonnes per acre,

your ingredients is the perfect recipe for

local cocktails; then why am I drinking a

the Mackinnon Bros. harvested 60 tonnes

beers that appeal to a large cross-section

beer made by some small-toque-wearing

of malting barley last year. Keeping the

of craft beer drinkers, as well as traditional

hipster in Toronto? (It’s no secret that the

process local, the Bros. send their barley to

beer drinkers who might be looking to

good people of Kingston can be a little funny

Belleville’s new micro malthouse, Barn Owl

hang up their Anheuser-Busch hats. Today,

about Toronto.)

Malt (see page 63).

Mackinnon Brothers Brewing Co. beers

Enter Mackinnon brothers, Ivan and

Their inaugural brew, Mackinnon

are in 100 bars in Ontario, and on some of

Daniel with their cousin Ben Vandenberg,

Bros. 8Man English Pale Ale, offered a

Ontario’s most coveted rotating taps, like

and close friend Andrew Weel: The

much-needed alternative for bored lager

craft beer havens the Red House and Grad

Mackinnon Brothers Brewing Co. with a

and ale drinkers, and a taste of local history

Club in Kingston, and the ever-popular

clear mission statement: using hops and

and sensibility.

Bar Hop, Bar Isabel, and Food and Liquor

malt grown and harvested on their farm,

When the Mackinnon Bros. first arrived

in Toronto. A full list of bars and LCBO

they would brew beer that was born from,

on the Ontario craft beer scene, hop-heavy,

locations carrying their brews can be found

and would become a part of, the unique

palate-punishing IPAs were the norm.

on their website at mackinnonbrewing.

character of rural Canada.

The well-balanced beers that Brew Master

com.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Craig Pinhey

1867 2017 [Canada has always loved its beer]

t’s interesting to reflect on our

brewing history, as the rest of Canada celebrates confederation, the founding of our great country in 1867. One aspect of that is looking at how beer brewed today is truly Canadian. If it is at all. Does Canadian beer in 2017 pay tribute to the way beer was brewed in the early days in Canada - as much as we can establish given the sometimes-spotty historical coverage of early brewing - and what happened during the evolution of our beer styles over the past century and a half? Are most beers brewed in our country today simply copycats of international beers, of American beers, or are they new recipes, forging a new way? Is Canada just an amalgam of European and American ideals? Or is it an evolution away from them, a thing in and of itself? This kind of debate is heady stuff. In this vein, how do we reconcile attempts to develop beers made from 100% Canadian ingredients with supply issues that prevent the entire country from brewing beer from Canadian hops? What about our malt? We’ve seen impressive growth in the number of specialty malt producers in Canada, but it’s still very common for Canadian breweries to use special malts, often from Europe, to achieve specific classic styles and give unique character to our brews. Putting aside, for the moment, attempts to pin down the ever-elusive “Canadian Identity” – as so many prominent historians have had to do – perhaps the best way to celebrate Canada’s 150th anniversary is to stop asking so many questions and just brew some beer. This is happening, or has already happened, at many of our nation’s brewers in 2017. Here’s a look at a few examples of the kinds of confederation beers on offer. M A S H M a g a z in e

The best place to start is with a brewery with a story as old as Canada’s, Moosehead, from Saint John, New Brunswick. Their matriarch Susannah Oland, of Swedish stock, started her brewery in the Halifax area in 1867. The family eventually split, resulting in Olands in Halifax and the Saint John area of New Brunswick, where Moosehead still brews beer today, and is still independent and family owned. Moosehead’s 150th Anniversary Ale was released several months ago, and is certainly Canadian. It uses hops from the East and West coasts, and barley from various sources across Canada. Stylewise, though, they didn’t attempt to reflect brewing history - as they might have - by brewing a stock ale, or perhaps a porter or early-style of North American cream ale. The beer is essentially a West Coast style Pale ale, bordering on an IPA, fairly bitter, with a prominent citrus note. An even more ambitious project in terms of execution, was the collection of small breweries from coast to coast whose brewers came together at Central City in Surrey, BC, resulting in the Red Racer “Across The Nation/À Travers la Pays Collaboration 12 Pack,” that includes a bottle from each of twelve breweries from across the country. There were special release events at each brewery staged throughout the summer, starting at Four Winds with their Left of the Divide IPA on May 30th and finishing near Ottawa with Beau’s Upper Reaches Pale Ale on Saturday July 1st. Brewers brewed their own recipes, making this 12 pack very special. Each made 20,000 litres, all generously paid for by Central City. PEI, for example, made Bière d’ici Honey Ale, a honey based Saison style brew. Daniel Girard of Garrison, in Nova Scotia, whipped up

September October

2017

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Schwarzbier

Crystal Luxmore

style !

Old world style.

ifirst fell hard for Schwarzbier six years ago when I tasted Silversmith Brewing’s black .lager. Made inside a former church in Niagara-on-the-Lake it poured dark black like a stout with medium-roast coffee and bready notes, but it finished more like a crisp pilsner. Schwarzbiers have the best personality going: bold but laid back, so you want to hang out with them all day. And you can take them anywhere – they’re awesome on a sunny patio or by a toasty fire after tobogganing. If Schwarz were a man, I’d marry him. M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

There aren’t many of these dark and bubblies being made in Canada – but I’ve scoured the country to find the best – and they run the gamut from linear German interpretations to lusher, fuller New World spins on the style. But before we get to those, let’s look at the beer’s history. Schwarzbier originated in two German regions north of Munich – the Franconian city of Kulmbach and a small town in Thuringia called Bad Köstritz. Read a little about Schwarzbier and you’ll hear an oftenrepeated fact: that Schwarzbier is the oldest beer style in the world. This “fact” is recited in many beer magazines and it’s based on a 1935 archaeological dig in Kulmbach where archaeologists unearthed an Iron Age Celtic tomb dating back to 800 BC. Brewing residue was found on pottery shards in the tomb – specifically charred wheat bread and oak leaves. Some writers have then said it’s easy to deduce that this beer was black, and that therefore the world’s oldest and still produced style of beer is a Schwarz. But think about it – that ale, a mixture of charred black bread crumbs and water, fermented warm with airborne wild yeasts, and then bittered with oak leaves was about as close to modern-day Schwarzbier as a gruit is to an American IPA. In fact, the only thing they have in common is that the grains were charred.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

F lavo u r’ s r oo t s Robin LeBlanc

raft beer means a lot of different things to a lot of different

Get to the malt portion of the brewery, however, and the familiar

people; that’s part of why it’s become so popular. But one thing rings

logos of Weyermann or Canada Malting are everywhere. The

true across all the varied interactions that people have with craft

two giant malting companies aren’t bad malt producers, but the

beer – the sheer number of styles , and variations of styles – on offer.

standard inclusion of the two malt giants puts forth a frustrating

The days of having to choose between five brands of similarly fla-

limitation on a beer industry that thrives on variety, locally

voured light beer are over. Now there’s seemingly a beer for every imaginable occasion. And consumers aren’t the only ones benefit-

produced goods, and small, independent businesses. Enter Barn Owl Malt. Barn Owl is a relatively new malting house

ting from the plethora of pours available. Brewers are thrilled to be

on the outskirts of Belleville, Ontario. Operated by husband and

able to allow their creativity to flourish. A number of hop varieties,

wife team Devin and Leslie Huffman, Barn Owl focuses on creating

with the rise of locally grown hops across Canada, do a lot in adding

a variety of small-batch malts that make use of local Ontario barley

to the large amount of choice that makes the craft beer movement

and the historic method of floor malting to bring forth a malt that

so amazing. Tour any brewery and you’ll find a variety of hops and

separates itself from the commonly used brands in the best of ways.

yeast from multiple sources on hand.

While they just opened last year, getting there took some time.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Devin and Leslie Huffman

Tree planters in their previous lives, the Huffmans spent more than ten years working throughout Northern Canada. Tree planting

rather a lot of barley being produced in Ontario; it’s just not being put to much use.

led to several contracts in the forestry and mining businesses, but

Noting this huge lack of Ontario-based malt on the market, the

eventually, they turned their gaze toward Devin’s grandparent’s

Huffmans found their niche and decided that a malt house was the

property, unused for many years, and saw in it a chance to settle

way to go. So what next? “Learning,” Leslie replies. “Yeah, probably

down from an ever-changing life and build businesses that put their

learning how to malt!” laughs Devin. And after an extensive amount

shared talents to good use.

of time researching and testing on their super-small batch setup

“It got to the point where we were following the work, which led to staying in a lot of hotels and short-term rentals all the time and

(with plenty of trial and error), the Huffmans had not only figured out the process of malting, but which method to go with.

that got a little bit boring,” Devin Huffman says. “So we were looking

Floor malting – a historical method in which the steeped grain is

for something to settle down with and this place was available and

spread out on a clean, flat, concrete floor and allowed to germinate

we were looking to do something a little more rural and agriculture

over a four to five day period before moving to the kiln for malting –

based. So the property just sort of made sense for location and size.”

although more labour intensive was the better choice in more ways

Once the Huffmans were settled in, the decision then became

than one. The decision to go with this particular method was origi-

what specific business to actually open. The land itself hadn’t been

nally born out of practicality. While the Huffmans had a number of

used in 30 or 40 years, so it wasn’t a functional farm and the pair

resources at their disposal in terms of to how to set up their facil-

had to start from scratch. After kicking around a number of ideas

ity, the commonly used automatic pneumatic system, which uses

for a niche, rural-based business, including something in the food

forced air for the germination process, wasn’t currently available

industry, the idea of a craft brewery was one of the strongest con-

for the small scale that the Huffmans were thinking. “It wasn’t until

tenders. But when they began to source brewing ingredients, they

we started working…that it became apparent there are a lot of other

had a startling revelation.

benefits to floor malting in terms of quality,” recalls Devin. “It does

“Just a lack of Ontario-based grain,” Leslie and Devin say, almost in unison.

give us a very intimate relationship with the barley, because we can interact with any possible issues very quickly, whereas with an au-

There are several reasons why Ontario barley doesn’t crop up much in brewing circles. The primary one is that most of the grain

tomated system the issues might not be as obvious and we wouldn’t be able to react as quickly.”

farming industry has moved west, where large-scale barley produc-

Having decided on a technique, and armed with equipment (built

tion is more suited to the spacious fields. What’s more, most of the

by Devin himself ), there was only one obstacle the Huffmans had to

large-scale production facilities have settled there, making proxim-

overcome: the ever-frustrating red tape of zoning licenses.

ity to western farmers a natural fit. Here in the east, barley is still

“The city of Belleville were fantastic and they were really excited

produced, but in smaller batches, often used for food production,

about us, but because there wasn’t really a business like this before,

with several crops suitable for malt production being sent to Cana-

they didn’t know what kind of license to give us.” explains Devin.

da Malting, which has a very low selection rate. Really, there is still

“At one point they were going to categorize us as a distillery, which

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

comes with a lot of regulations on issues that just didn’t fit the

including award-winners 5 Paddles Brewing, the Napanee Beer

operation we had. Then they wanted to categorize us as a grain

Company, Sawdust City, and MacKinnon Brothers Brewing happy

elevator, which...also had similar problems because we weren’t

to include Barn Owl Malt in their cache of ingredients.

really that either.”

Barn Owl has also found incredible support in the homebrew-

In time, things were figured out, paperwork was filed, and the

ing community, where ever-adventurous homebrewers, several of

Huffmans were given approval to turn their vision into a reality.

whom make batches once or twice a week, have been anxious to see

They set to work building their facility, cultivating relationships

what the malt has to offer. The community has become Barn Owl’s

with barley farmers in the area, and on the 25th of April 2016,

most ardent supporters, happily providing feedback and keeping

Barn Owl sold their very first bag of malt. The sense of relief when

the Huffmans appraised on their brews. “I often find out about the

everything had come together, when everything had worked out,

quality of our malt from the homebrewers before we get the results

was palpable. Particularly when they operated their kiln for the

from our lab tests,” Devin says.

first time and found that it not only worked, but that it exceeded their expectations.

At the moment Barn Owl is producing Pilsner, Lager, Munich, and two kinds of Pale Ale malts available at their own facility as well as

The reception that Barn Owl has received over their first year

homebrew shops throughout the province. Their plan for the future

has been overwhelmingly positive. Although there has been some

is to expand their capacity and offer more of a selection of malts

hesitancy from brewers worried about small batches and barley

including wheat and rye. At the time of writing, experiments into

coming from a number of different farm sources, all have been

creating crystal malts are underway – with promising results.

happily surprised to find that the Huffmans have been yielding a

Leslie’s and Devin’s story is one that lends itself well to craft beer

strong, consistent quality in their malts. “We don’t just take any old

mythology. Finding a gap in the market and working hard to pro-

barley and run it through the same process,” Devin explains. “We

duce something that is fiercely and unapologetically local is the

have a pretty vigorous quality check for acceptance and then assign

crux of why many people enter the beer industry. In just the short

the barley we take in to the style of malt that it’s best suited to.” And

time that Barn Owl Malt has been in business, they have reminded

the results of such a process shows, with many Ontario breweries

us of the old Foodland slogan: Good things grow in Ontario.

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

food

David Ort

Grain au gratin “There really are a lot of gadgets,” “my

muffins that are a big seller on Saturday

Woodlot where their in-house bread baker,

kitchen is covered in a sticky film of beer,”

mornings. Leon explains that some custom-

Jeff Connell, developed a recipe with the

and “we’re basically staring at a pot of boil-

ers have picked up spent grain for at-home

right proportion of spent grain to bread

ing water for ninety minutes?” These are

baking and brought their muffins and dog

dough.

the various reactions of the rookie home

treats back in to share with the team (and

brewer. But the cherry on the sundae of un-

brewery dog).

Rawlings and his wife Kim now run Montgomery’s, their own restaurant around

expected consequences comes at the end of

Barnstormer Brewing & Distilling Co. in

the corner from Bellwoods on Queen West.

the brew day when you face the task of dis-

Barrie, ON, has been putting spent grain to

There, Rawlings’ spent grain offerings have

posing of a heap of sodden, mushy barley.

work since they opened in 2013. As well as a

moved on from baked goods to miso.

A 5-gallon batch will spit out enough

subtle malt character it imparts texture to

He makes a koji by inoculating cooked

spent grain to fill the lion’s share of a stan-

regular menu items like pizza, or pancakes

barley with aspergillus oryzae and once it

dard-issue Toronto green bin. That’s the

on the weekend brunch menu.

has started to ferment it’s mixed into spent

one that is meant to hold an entire house-

“Our kitchen uses roughly 5 kilograms of

hold’s compostable waste for a week. Imag-

spent grain each week [and] our brewery, on

ine the task craft breweries must have,

average, produces approximately 2,000 kilo-

Rawlings says, “the darker beers – way

given that even small operations will be

grams of spent grain [in the same time],” ex-

better – a gazillion times more valuable for

brewing 100-times as much beer, several

plains Brad Ariss, their creative director. “The

obvious reasons” to do with more sweetness

times per week.

rest we give away for free to our local farmers.”

and character.

grain and a bit of water and salt. In terms of choosing spent grain for miso,

Even after steeping pulls out some sugar

Avaughn Wells, the executive chef at

the malted barley (or wheat or oats) is en-

Amsterdam’s Brewhouse on Toronto’s

tirely edible, so it makes sense to try to do

lakefront goes beyond baked goods to find

After time (one-and-a-half months all the

something with it other than paying a com-

spent-grain applications like breading for

way up to three years) and temperature (sum-

pany to cart it away. In Southampton, ON, it

onion rings and chicken schnitzel. Gratin

mer is better for warmer conditions) have

was a natural choice for Outlaw Brewing to

toppings for vegetables and streusel for pies

helped the bacteria work their transformative

distribute their spent grain to their Bruce

have made his list of uses in the past.

magic the flavours change remarkably.

“You need something for the bacteria to eat,” he explains.

County neighbours, says co-owner Deborah

He gets the spent grain from batches of

“It went from very pale to a dark choco-

Leon. One of them, “Farmer Bob,” she says,

Amsterdam Blond and 3 Speed, so it has

late brown,” he says, “and it gets the most

“comes in at all hours of the day and night

“fairly neutral flavours but it adds an inter-

insane, complex flavours with everything

to pick up the spent grain and feeds it to a

esting texture to breading,” he explains.

from mushroom to almost chocolate to very

massive cattle farm.” Giving spent grain to

Before it’s ready to use in the kitchen, the

farmers for livestock feed is one solution

spent grain has to be spread on sheet pans

still widely in use, but many chefs and brew-

and left to dry for two to three days.

ers are going above and beyond to find ways to make spent grain into food for people.

intense brown flavours like Bovril.” It’s tough to imagine a time when all of the spent grain from Canadian craft brew-

Chef Guy Rawlings’ adventures with

eries will find its way directly into kitchens,

spent-grain cookery go back as far as 2012

but given their well-deserved reputation for

The in-house kitchen at Outlaw has taken

when he was the chef who helped open the

creativity brewers and chefs will likely con-

up the torch and incorporated spent grain

kitchen at Toronto’s Bellwoods Brewery

tinue to find ways to close that gap.

into a variety of menu items including their

he was sending the brewing by-product to M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

Craig Pinhey

“It takes a community to start a brand new industry.” — Al Stewart, Horton Ridge

Horton Ridge Malt H

orton Ridge Malt & Grain Co. opened last year in a beau-

Stewart and his son, dealing solely in organic grains, and working

tiful new building just outside of Wolfville, NS. They are the only

with small batches of one tonne. “One tonne of grain yields

commercial facility in Atlantic Canada using the time-honoured

850 kilograms of malt,” Stewart explains. “We can produce 850

tradition of floor malting, and one of few in North America.

kilograms of malt every other day, which works out to an annual

Floor malting is a technique that requires time and skill. It is a

production of 150 tonnes, requiring about 175 tonnes of grain.”

7-day process, consisting of 2 days to steep the grain in water, 3.5

They currently produce pale malted barley as well as Vienna and

days of germination on the malting floor, and 1.5 days to air, dry, and

Munich specialty malts treasured by brewers for their distinct malt

cure in the kiln. Floor malting requires regular raking and turning

character. Stewart also plans to produce wheat, rye, and crystal

of the grain to ensure consistency.

malt, but not dark roasts. “We would need a separate roaster to do

Owner and operator Al Stewart comes from six generations of

those. Maybe someday,” he adds.

farmers who have farmed the same 100 acres of land which has

Stewart is serious about organic malt. “I have been farming

always been a mixed farm, growing vegetables, fruit, berries, and

organically since 1988,” he says, “so all products bearing our label

grain – land that was also home to beef cows until 10 years ago.

will be organic. We might entertain doing custom malting of local

Stewart says that the idea for malting came as a result of wanting

non-organic grains if the opportunity arose. This would cause us

to add value to the grain he was already growing, including rye.

to undertake extra work to satisfy our organic certification body, a

“While searching for uses for grain,” he explains, “and knowing that

cost that would have to be passed on to the non-organic customer.”

it is used to make beer and whisky, I came to learn that no one was

Producing organic malt is expensive. “We are paying triple the

malting grain locally for the burgeoning beer & distilling industries.

price for our barley,” offers Stewart. “Our organic floor malt is at

I saw the opportunity.”

least twice as expensive as conventional malt.” Horton Ridge grew

Stewart holds a degree in Metallurgical Engineering, but has

20 tonnes of organic rye this year, which they plan to malt at some

worked from the farm for the last 25 years. “I made the choice to stay

point. So far they have only malted barley, all organic malt from

on the farm, which precluded a formal engineering career,” he notes.

Saskatchewan.

“I worked for Scotian Gold for 10 years, and just finished 10 years with Sustainable Housing doing energy efficiency consultation.”

grains, but they currently do not exist,” he explains. “Since we have

Horton Ridge Malting is an artisanal malt producer, staffed by M A S H M a g a z in e

“Our end goal is to malt exclusively Maritime grown organic

established the malt house, we have been getting interest from September October

2017

organic growers to produce malting grain. This year, we did get a

over $600K, and as a result we have approximately 100 investors.

small amount (2 tonnes) of organic two-row barley grown close to us

It takes a community to start a brand new industry.”

in the Annapolis Valley. It will likely take 5-6 years for us to get the majority of our annual requirement of 175 tonnes from our region.”

If you want to try some beer made with Horton Ridge malt, the obvious choice is Cape Breton’s Big Spruce, a 100% organic craft

The first things that will strike you about Horton Ridge are the

beer producer that buys most of the malt produced by Stewart and

beautiful building, with its distinct roof visible from the highway,

his son. “Big Spruce and Tatamagouche Brewing Company (Nova

and its tasting room area, which they will use for tours and eventu-

Scotia’s two organic breweries) are our largest customers,” Stewart

ally beer sampling and a small brewery. Stewart himself was exten-

explains. “Other breweries that have used our malt are Sea Level

sively involved in the building’s construction. “I sub-contracted the

Brewing, North Brewing, Granite Brewery, Antigonish Townhouse,

framing, plumbing, and electrical,” say Stewart, “however, it was my-

Boxing Rock, Uncle Leo’s, Bad Apple Brewing, Schoolhouse Brew-

self and one other guy that did the balance of the work (inside and out-

ing and Paddy’s Pub. Noble Grape [a wine making and home brew-

side); sheathing, roofing, installation of equipment, finish work, etc.”

ing supply store] also stocks a selection of our malts.”

“The roof was inspired by the malting rooms of the distilleries

Although making malt for brewers is clearly a business, Stewart

of Scotland,” he says. “The fellow that I worked with during con-

has a philosophical approach to their place in the local beer scene. “I

struction, Paul Rodgers, did the actual design work based on the

feel that our operation allows brewers to fulfill the ‘brand promise’

napkin sketches I provided. Since craft malting was in its infancy

of artisanal beers being made in Atlantic Canada by small brewers.

when I started this project there was no template from which to

Their beers are made with a philosophy and ingredients meant to

work. Hence I had to design the steep tanks and the malt kiln my-

distinguish them from macro beer. However, if the grain is grown,

self, (here his engineering background paid off ) and had them built

and the malt they are using is made with the same mass production

by local fabrication shops.”

mindset as the beer that they are contrasting their beers with, then

A project like this isn’t cheap, but Stewart was resourceful and

I think they have not fully lived up to that brand promise. Using

used what was available. “The total project was about $1 million, the

organic malt produced with that shared artisanal approach better

vast majority of which was spent in our backyard of Kings County,

represents what their customers envision when they enjoy their

NS,” he says. “We used Nova Scotia's innovative Community

beers. We want beer drinkers to fully understand the complete beer

Economic Development Investment Fund (CEDIF) tool to raise

value chain, complete with its agricultural component.”

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017

W interlong B rewery Y u kon T erritory

time we expand and increase, we think we’re going to be one step

makes sense.” Completing the circle, Winterlong’s spent grains go

ahead. We just nearly doubled again, and we’re just keeping up,”

to a local farmer’s pigs, cows, and chickens.

says Marko. Yet the homebrew ethos persists, with a new recipe brewed every two weeks.

Marko talks enthusiastically about all aspects of the brewery, especially the brewing itself – from the kettle-souring process

The Winterlong team draws inspiration from travelling, tasting,

for goses, to barrel-ageing in whiskey barrels from Port Chilkoot

reading, and experimenting. On a recent trip to San Diego, Marko

Distillery, to regional variation in spruce tips. “The Sitka spruce

and Meghan were introduced to New England style IPAs and

[from coastal Alaska] are really nice juicy spruce tips. The Yukon

brought a few cans back to Winterlong. The result was “Hazy Sexy

spruce tips are a little bit different, they’ve got a sort of resinous

Cool,” a juicy IPA that really is all three. A refreshing, unfiltered

pineyness to them.”

summer beer with the right balance of fruity to hoppy, it sold out in a few days. The brewery is always bustling. On opening the door, you enter

His favourite style? The classic IPA. Not surprisingly, some of his favourite Winterlong brews are variations on the pale ale: Nightshade, a black IPA; Hazy Sexy Cool, the recent juicy IPA

the Yukon’s first tasting room, a bright space with accents of teal

hit; and Sullen Riot, the latest RyePA on tap. The RyePA pours a

and polished wood. Thanks to the nearby ski hill, the dead months

beautiful amber, and is hoppy and balanced at 5% abv. With a long

of January, February, and March are some of Winterlong’s busiest.

list of favourites, it’s hard to believe that Winterlong has brewed so

80% of their beer is sold on-site in growlers and tasters; the

many great beers in just two years.

remainder is bottled.

Marko’s easygoing demeanour belies the hard work he and

In addition to selling direct, Winterlong also sources local. The

Meghan have poured into Winterlong. As if starting a brewery from

simple, tasty food – scotch eggs and meat pies, plus pepperoni and

scratch wasn’t enough of a challenge, he casually mentions that

kettle corn snacks – is made with organic ingredients and local eggs,

they have a one-year-old child. No doubt the littlest Marjanovic will

pork, and beef. The shop’s BBQ sauces, mustards, and soaps are

grow up with an appreciation for all things malted and hoppy.

made by local artisans using Winterlong beer. “We know that locals support us, and we try to support locals, because we do believe that it’s nice to keep things local,” says Marko. “Every dollar that is spent in the Yukon stays in the Yukon. It just

“We love beer and there’s nothing else that we would rather do,” says Marko, summing up the Winterlong experience perfectly. Fun fact: A software engineer by training, Marko also maintains the popular local website www.yukonhiking.ca.

Ben Johnson

last call

In praise of the full pour.

Personally, I hate sample sizes.

presumably, the final boss you must defeat

head approaches your nose in a format

Ordering a taster, putting together a

is Cirrhosis. It’s this same competitive

big enough to actually smell the stuff, it’s

flight of beers, or, worse, lining up with a

approach to beer that has led people to the

a reassuring heft that says, yes, This Is A

sweaty fistful of plastic tokens at a festival to

absurd extreme of actually buying small,

Drink.

exchange them for a little glass of beer rank,

overpriced portions of rare beers on the

A full pour, whether it be a classic nonic

to me, among some of the worst possible

internet, just to say they’ve tried them.

pint glass, a tulip, or even the dreaded

beer-drinking experiences.

This phenomenon has less in common with

shaker, allows the complexities of a beer

“drinking beer” than it does collecting Pogs.

to reveal themselves. That first sip, which,

And it has to stop.

if you’re thirsty enough, ought to amount

You can’t get any real sense of a beer nosing and sipping a toddler-sized cup. It’s the reason shitty tequila is consumed in a

True enjoyment of a beer requires a full

to the same volume a sample glass often

similar format: The little glass is the ideal

pour. First, there’s a certain ceremony to

affords, allows your mouth to acclimate and

delivery mechanism for liquids we want to

awaiting a proper pint that’s being pulled.

prepare for the drink that follows, allowing

put in our suck-holes and be done with. It’s

There’s an anticipation as the glass fills, a

more considered beverage drinking. The

utilitarian, no more than a means to an end,

moment to perhaps enjoy some discourse

second, third, and fourth sips provide

and, thus, no way to treat a proper beer.

with the bartender; even a brief “Have you

occasion to actually appreciate the flavours,

Sample sizes also seem, to me, to aid the

tried this one?” or a reassuring, “This is

give you time to appreciate the aroma, allow

ever-growing “game-ification” of drinking.

pouring really well right now,” lend them-

you the proper canvas to take in the lacing,

Aided by the Untapped app, beer enthusi-

selves to an exponentially more enjoyable

and as the thing warms a little, let you decide

asts are now encouraged to track and share

start to a drinking experience than any

if you want the same again as you bury your

their beer drinking in a competitive man-

hastily-filled Fisher-Price-inspired glass

face in the glass and breathe it in.

ner and are duly awarded with “badges”

thrust at us as we’re ushered aside for the

for achievements like drinking 25 different

next neckbeard in line.

Hefeweizens (“It may not be cloudy out-

Consider too the satisfaction of plunking an emptied pint glass on a table or bar.

Then there’s the gravitas of the thing.

The full pour offers one of the most easily

A pint slid across a bar and hoisted to

achieved feelings of having accomplished

Drinking beer is becoming a video game

your mouth offers a comforting weight,

something. Yep. You drank this, and, you

replete with taste-per-level scoring, where,

and as, hopefully, a healthy amount of

know what? You’ll have another.

side, but your brew definitely is!”).

M A S H M a g a z in e

September October

2017