Vol 8.0 Dec 2015
Vol 8.0 Dec 2015
Jewellery existed a long time ago; they were manufactured out of stones, bones, animal skins, feathers and more. With the advancement of discovering and forming gems the purpose of Jewellery remained the same. It allows us to express ourselves and reflect our surrounding environment, culture and style. They also enable us to showcase wealth, social rank, political and religious affiliation or affection towards something. This enabled jewellery to become timeless and a target for refinement. Call of Culture is happy to bring you a selection of fine jewellery cultures from around the world; we also added a line of culture reviews and facts about precious stones and jewellery. I am sure you will enjoy readying and manifesting new ways to make your own fine pieces of gems.
Mohammed Bakhreiba
Writers
Copy Editor
Aleksandra Ristovski J Kurdi Maxime Doucet Catherine Vassiliou Chapa Perera Fatema Ali J Kurdi Jamie Kenmure
Creative Masters Hisham Dada
Josuel Plasencia Paul Moriarty Patrick Nockish Rawda Harb Rosalind Lott Simonetta Simmons
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Vol 8.0 Dec 2015
Since the dawn of time Jewelry had an important function for mankind. It reflects many different things about culture: it can be a social mark, a tradition or a source of believe. It could be a symbol of heritage, a utility object (like a belt) or even an artistic expression. Today, each culture got their own types of jewels and some are only used in special occasion. Jewelry are pieces of history and explain a lot about the habits of ancient cultures. Every civilization made it for different reasons and each used their own techniques and materials like Ivory, Gold, and Wood or even Feathers and Shells. In this last volume before 2016 our distinguished writers share with you fascinating stories about their cultures through the History of Jewelry and what it symbolize.
Maxime Doucet Copy Editor
Phtography Edan Cohen Jessica Polar Kazu End Keran Look Lay Kirk Morales Ondres Spitar Oscan Nilsson Pawl Furman Ryan Wong Scott Webb Yulia Vambold
Root Mohammed Bakhreiba
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Fulani gold earrings
The Fulani which are also called the Fula or Fulbe, are well known all over the world for their jewelry crafting. The special super-large gold twist earrings can be up to five inches long and usually is made out of silver or gold. As is true with most Africans, this specifically and thoroughly conveys the wealth and status in the wearer. Traditionally the nomadic Fulani, wear their wealth inside their jewelry. They can carry this using them wherever they go; and then easily buy goods from people they meet.
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Jewellery in Ireland By Paul Moriarty, Ireland.
What is or was the purpose of jewellery? Why do we sing about bling? Audrey hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s famously warbled; The French are glad to die for love. They delight in fighting duels But I prefer a man who lives And gives expensive jewels. Ladies and gentlemen like their jewellery but what lies behind the desire to wear such trinkets? Is it vanity, adornment, dedication or tribute? Maybe it’s a combination? The history of Irish jewellery is synonymous with our culture and society. The first examples to be found in our museums are simple woven leather bands. They may have been gifts or adornments but very often they were to be found on or around the dead. As time progressed pieces became more sophisticated. We could easily assert the status of people in life by the jewels which adorned them in death. In some burials there were bracelets, armlets and cloak pins forged from bronze, silver and gold. Just like the Pharaohs, ancient Irish people attempted to bring their material treasures with them. But alas, these people were reduced to dust long before their trinkets.
The arrival of the Celtic Church to Ireland gave a new meaning to certain pieces. As monks transcribed scripture and ancient texts they adorned their manuscripts with sophisticated designs. This filigree style inspired a new art form which manifested in religious iconography, crucifix and chalice. I live in County Limerick where the following object was unearthed in a local field some 150 years ago. Although it’s not an item of jewellery “The Ardagh Chalice” continues to influence a unique Irish style that extends to necklaces, earrings and rings to this very day. But the quintessential Irish jewel remains the Claddagh Ring. This is a symbol of friendship and of love that sends a message. When one wears it with the heart facing away from the wrist it says; I am looking for love. Conversely if the heart is worn facing inward it’s a declaration to the world that; my heart belongs to another. Today the most highly treasured object of jewellery remains the wedding band. It’s still a powerful symbol of love that lives on even after the death of its owner. Many girls are privileged to wear their mother’s or grandmother’s wedding rings. Even after a burglary, the only thing that truly cannot be replaced is the wedding ring.
Australian Jewellery By Jamie Kenmure, Australia.
They say jewellery is a women’s best friend? Ok, maybe not for every woman but at least for 95% of women. What makes it different in Australia and surrounding countries is the historical importance of jewellery. We have the standard bracelet that is common amongst the everyday use for women which is great but this wouldn’t be common amongst Australia's indigenous community. We see from the colourful dot-painted bracelet how it reflects to the culture. This bracelet could reflect one of our 500 indigenous communities that exist in Australia and its tribal heritage. This is what is unique about jewellery and our culture in Australia. So, again we see earrings in their basic design for which is the same as the bracelet; nothing special at all. We see with Indigenous ear rings it reflects again a heritage of one of the 500 communities we have in Australia amongst the Indigenous community. So what I am eventually saying is that we have western community which follows in the trends of the US and other western countries and then we have an Indigenous community.
Through our culture, we have two stories to tell; the western and the Indigenous. From the jewellery that is featured in this report, each one has a story to tell, a reflection of history, on someone or something. Through jewellery, designers create a culture for women to feel great about themselves, but also be able to tell a story to the world while feeling great and empowering other women to do the same.
Sri Lanka – its culture and its Jewelry By Chapa Perera, Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka, the pearl of the Indian Ocean, has always been affiliated with its excellent gem industry and its carefully crafted gold jewelry. The culture of jewelry craftsmanship and gem industry has been widely celebrated in many historical and literary sources worldwide, going as far back as the 250 B.C. In fact, Sri Lanka was once named Rathna Deepa, which in Sanskrit means the ‘land of the gems’. Marco Polo and Ptolemy, in their respective works, talk about the excellent gems and sapphires that can be found in Sri Lanka. As the legend goes, King Solomon himself has gifted a handful of excellent gems from Sri Lanka to his lady love, Queen Sheeba. However, the purpose of this article is not to discuss the rich and colourful history of Sri Lanka's jewelry industry and gems – it is far more interesting to look at what these jewels denote to the culture of Sri Lanka. According to the Sri Lankan culture and its traditions, a woman adorned in jewelry reflects the prosperity, the happiness and the wealth of the family she is attached to. A young girl, after her first period, is dressed with new jewelry by her relatives, and she is expected to wear them throughout. According to the traditional beliefs, a girl who does not wear gold hoops or a small gold necklace around her neck comes from either a very impoverished family, or has faced a family tragedy. Hence, the lack of jewelry is considered as a reflection of despair. Jewelry is also attributed to the status of matrimony. It is owing to this reason that a bride is heavily adorned with jewelry during the wedding. The groom, during the ceremony, gifts the bride with jewelry, and she is generally expected to wear them throughout. These jewels are removed only upon the death of her husband.
Hence, it is abundantly clear that, according to the Sri Lankan culture, jewelry plays a significant role in the life of a Sri Lankan woman – right from the day her ears are first pierced to her old age. Thus, jewelry craftsmanship in Sri Lanka has remained a robust and a much venerated industry since time immemorial.
The artistic French expression of Jewelry By Maxime Doucet, France.
The first function of Jewelry is to beautify people, as well as attributing a symbolic value to their social rank. They can be worn during special events like weddings (bride) royal ceremonies (the sovereign) or simply religious gatherings, making them a powerful symbol, vector of value and tradition. In Paris, France, Camille Moncomble has decided to make Jewelry an art object, a dream item, whose main purpose is to make you travel. This french artist tells you a story about France and its History through his rings, bracelets, necklaces or other items. What’s more, his artwork introduces you to the French heritage in a subtle and magical way. Alone in his Parisian studio, he works the precious metals and our mind by creating unique pieces of art, filled with the French spirit as it is and as fantasized. Jewels : A piece of Culture and History The Bracelet ' lovers benches ' takes its name from a popular song by Georges Brassens, a real monument of the 50’s-60’s French song. In his collection "The Course of Miracles » he presents us a ring called "Scale of the unreachable star ». On one hand, it is a reference to childhood and every man’s dream of reaching the sky, and on the other hand the title of his collection refers to the nickname of a famous Parisian place of the eighteenth century. This place was called so because at night, the alleged infirms who used to live and beg there during the day, disappeared miraculously. None of them actually suffered disability but lived in poverty and could not find work. In each of his work of arts, are hidden pieces of both the French culture and history.
Arts and Crafts Throughout these masterpieces, the artist questions us about our relationship to childhood, memories, dreams etc. Beyond creating jewels in precious metals, Camille Moncomble leads us to see further than the object itself and shows us another function of mixing Jewelry crafts, arts, traditions and contemporaneity. Overall, he takes us back to our memory, and to that very French spirit of romance, dream, art and culture. Artists and designers are a very important part of the French economy. In France, the cultural sector stands for approximately 3 or 4% of the GDP (58 billions of euro).
Gold Gold is one of the handiest mineral on earth. It has great physical potential.It can be drawn in to wire, hammered into sheets, alloyed with other materials and metals, can easily be melted and cast in shapes, it has wonderful colour and brilliant gloss. Gold conduct electricity and play important role in different industries, including technology, food and cosmetics generally. Many cultures are identical when it comes to their love for Gold and its beauty. Indians, Egyptians, Roman old civilizations loved and used gold a lot to represent glory and social status. Some ancient cultures didn’t have cultural interactions or trading though they loved gold and jewellery in general. Through out history gold used to symbolize power, beauty, purity, and accomplishment. In our modern age gold reflects significant ceremonies including wedding rings, Olympic medals, Oscars, Grammys, money, ecclesiastical art and crucifixes. Gold was probably the first metal used by mankind in jewellery. Today most of the gold is used in jewellery industry. World treasure of Gold is around 33,000 tons of pure gold. Gold has great resistance to tarnish, but still pure gold which is 24 Karats is too soft to shape a jewellery that is why craftsmen alloy gold with other metals such as copper, sliver, and platinum to increase its durability. The more gold karats are in a piece of jewellery the more it is expensive, softer and resist tarnishing and the vice versa.
Indian jewellery is as old as the origin of Indian civilization. For women, adorning themselves with jewellery is a part of the Indian culture, the uniqueness of designs and variety makes it alluring. Since ancient times jewellery has also been used for religious practices of beautifying the Hindu gods, royal people possessed the most exquisite and magnificent pieces. Jewellery plays a significant role in all kinds of traditional dances in India. There are different styles of Indian Jewellery, the Antique, Bead, Copper, Gold, Kundan, Navratna, Silver, Meenakari and many other regional styles including custom made jewellery. The significance of Indian jewellery is evident from the fact that it’s used and gifted to women on various occasions like at birth, in marriage and etc. It holds a lot of importance to Indian women not only for the purpose of adornment but also for security in times of need. Certain jewellery is used only for married women like the mangalsutra. An Indian bride is considered incomplete without her adornments as she is expected to look her very best during her wedding. The most used precious metal for Indian Jewellery is gold and precious stones have been added to them since a few decades ago. Emeralds, rubies, garnets, diamonds, pearls, corals, sapphires, turquoises are among the stones that are used for the enhancement of gold and silver jewellery. Indian women and jewellery adornment are inseparable. The art of crafting and designing Indian jewellery has been developed and refined throughout history and differs among the different states of India. There are jewellery for almost all body parts, including the neck, ears, nose, arms, ankles, fingers, waist, hair parting, etc. In India, jewellery is designed to match with the attire. Jewellery made of silver, platinum and other metals with stones has gained a lot of popularity.
Indian Jewellery By Fatima Ali, India.
Jewelry of the Dominican Republic and the Caribbean By Josuel Plasencia, Dominic. The interconnection between a culture and the physical items it represents is extremely intertwined, like a river and the soil, like a smile and happiness, its connection lives as both as natural outcomes (river and soil) and emotional outcomes (smile and happiness). One's jewelry is no exception to this unwritten rule of culture, be it in Paris, Cleveland, Dubai or Bali. There's definitely no exception in the Dominican Republic, the place I call home. Here, like the bright sun that covers us for most of the day, while we are surrounded by crystal clear waters, decorated by an entrance of green palm trees, our jewelry invites us to experience the same. Esmeralda Lambert, a mentee and CEO founder of her own chain of Dominican Jewelry introduced me to the rich history of Dominican Jewelry. Connected to its creators, it represents the love for colors, the love for nature, and the deep connection this country has to its African and Spanish ancestory. Though the African connection is most impetrative. Its relationship, a romantic one that has also helped the country develop the rhythms of Salsa, Merengue and Bachata. When you buy an Esmeralda Lambert piece, you are also buying a piece of commitment to fair labor practices. When you start doing the jewelry yourself, you begin to understand the ethics behind the business and know the importance of being fair in your practices. Esmeralda who is based in Boston and ships all her merchandise from the Dominican Republic, pays her workers fair wages and is committed to their education and safety. She is just one of many fashionistas from the Dominican Republic who has an unwavering commitment to her society, to provide a different option from the mega corporations. This while proving the bright, flashy, red, green, blue or white pieces of jewelry in contrast with the gold of the west, invites people to her world. The world of the Dominican Republic.
Domonican Jewelry
Like a river and
the soil!
Beautifying the Sacred
By Patrick Nickisch, Germany.
The sense of beauty and the myriad expressions of art and the desire to beautify ourselves, our surroundings and to shine in our own beauty - even more with accessoires appears as old as humankind themselves. However, what is precious and therefore often considered most pricy, has also changed as have the availibility of desirable materials to give expression to talented craftmanship, across cultures and regions. Not uncommon, such craft has been used for sacred objects of all kinds, and materials with attributed meaning and power. It is here, where vast differences can be found between popular modern jewelry as a luxury commodity, or status symbol, and indigenous cultures or ancient civilizations, both extinct and still in existence. In the free germanic tribes which is now Germany, jewellry was decorated with runes and sacred symbols, the sun and moon, worn as necklaces or belts. Ancient symbols are increasingly used in modern jewellry trends, so our ancient culture, customs and what beliefs we have, we invest into jewelery, what we express with them, why we wear them determine our choices and trends in historic times and today.
Associated meanings and beliefs in special powers and attributes of woods, stones, bones, feathers, gems, metals, shells have given a large scope to create fusion in recent trends, a synergy of ancient attributions and art forms presented by modern outlets. In the tradition of modernity, conventionally branded traditional knowledge has been considered superstitious, pre-modern and non-scientific. Nevertheless, a woman who loves her man, would still gift him an obsidian necklace for protection. The manufacturing of rings, and the creation of magical or sacred objects, which materials to use, when to get them, on which day to manufacture them, and which stone to use on which hand and finger are still practiced around the world – wearing a yellow sapphire on the right hand's index finder - is good for business - even for the CEO of a Big Fortune company.
Jewelry in Ghana
By Simonetta Simmons, Ghana.
The Asante tribe in Ghana, West Africa, with their wealth in gold, have skilled craftspeople that produce elaborate gold objects for royalty and for ceremonial use. Asante royalty wear gold in copious amounts. One of the most impressive objects, is the ceremonial heavy gold badge worn around the neck by distinguished members of the royal court who are close to the king. At the most important ceremonies, the asantehene and the influential paramount chiefs have worn so much gold jewelry and armlets that assistants have had to walk beside them to support the weight of their arms. The Asante believe that gold has spiritual power and can provide protection to those who wear it. Others ocieties see gold as a destructive force that hinders spiritual power and prefer to wear silver jewelry instead. Regardless of the type of material, metal jewelry plays an important role in traditional cultures. Diviners often advice clients to wear metal bangles or other forms of metal ornamentation to give them spiritual guidance and to protect them from evil spirits. In much similar way, beads can be indicators of wealth and status and provide spiritual protection. The meaning and symbolism of beads vary between ethnic groups. In many groups, a string of small, fine beads are wrapped around the waist of young girls from the time they are born as a protective device and a sign of age and marital status. In Dangme society, the wearing of nyoli and tovi beads identifies certain people as priestesses. The number of beads indicates the rank of the priestess and identifies her deity. Chiefs who signify their position in society, also wear bead bracelets.
Jewelry and Accessories
By Rawdah Harb, Palestine.
It is known that old stuff are distinguished by originality and new things with luster and gloss, and that is what makes the Palestinian heritage jewelry and accessories special. The Palestinian heritage is very special and beautiful, because of its attractive and radiant colors, which are shown in jewelry, one of the things that women love to wear for the splendor of its beauty. Many Palestinian jewellry designers work on a combination of old and new, combining gems interlaced with fabrics and silver, and Islamic goldsmiths characters, along with what distinguishes the Palestinian identity, such as the colors of the flag, kufiyah, olive wood and trees and the old Palestinian currency. Also, it presents many of the traditional Palestinian embroidery designs from all regions Palestinian women wear all kinds of jewelry such as necklaces and bracelets, as well as a kind of cap for the head decorated with golden coins. These caps were not just for decoration, but also to differentiate between married and unmarried women where the number of gold coins were less for the single women.
In Hebron, where the famous glass industry is located, they create the glass beads and use them in jewelry. The most famous is the turquoise beads and blue beads with an eye mascot that is believed to protect against evil and envious eyes. Besides the necklaces made of colored beads in blue, green, envy eye, there is also a piece representing the five talismans. A woman gets most of her jewelry and accessories when she gets married; in the twenties.In the twentieth century, it was one of the basics for the bride to buy a bracelet that is made of Hebron glass. Heritage design takes a lot of time and handwork, with good and solid threads, to produce many accessories and items such as embroidery purses, crowns, earrings, belts, necklaces, and brides' crowns. These accessories are almost extinct, but they still exist in the West Bank and Gaza and designers keep working on them to reach the developed and integrated designes that suit stylish, trendy and fashionable women. Jewelry and accessories are a symbol of the Palestinian culture, that show the cultural and historical and social identity showing how the Palestinians connect to their land.
Facts about Jewellery Egypt and Mesopotamia were the first two ancient civilizations that started organized production of jewellery. Their accomplishments in advancement of metallurgy and gem collecting played important role for development of jewelry in every civilization that came after them. The word jewellery comes from jewel, from the old French jouel, which in turn comes from the latin jocale, which means 'plaything'. Amber is fossilized tree sap that is at least 30 million years old. Silver was used as a jewelry material for over 6 thousand years. Throughout history, jewellery has often been about status. In ancient Rome, for example, only some high ranking people were allowed to wear rings. In the west, men wearing earrings were seen as effeminate in the 19th and most of the 20th centuries. Now, it's perfectly acceptable. In some African cultures enormous earrings are a sign of masculinity, prowess, power and status. Jewellery appeared in Ancient Egypt between 3000-5000 years ago. They loved gold best. The ancient Chinese loved silver much more than gold, using the metal to craft beautiful pieces studded with blue kingfisher feathers and various blue gemstones. But their main obsession was with jade, which they loved for its alleged human qualities: hardness, durability and beauty.
Diamond Cuts Diamonds are all over 3 billion years old, and they formed from carbon that was heated and compressed into diamond form at the depth of 100 miles below the surface of the earth. Diamonds were first mined in India.
Only one in a million of mined diamonds ends up in jewelry.
The first known use of a diamond engagement ring took place in 1477, when Archduke Maxmillian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a gold ring featuring a M spelled out in diamonds.
The word diamond is derived from the Greek word “adamas,� which means invincible or indestructible
The ancient Romans and Greeks believed that diamonds were tears cried by the gods or splinters from falling stars, and Romans believed that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds (perhaps the earliest association between diamonds and romantic love).
A Story about
African culture, What is Gratitude? By Rosalind Lott, Senegal.
I can honestly say this word has been one taken for granted in the Western Culture. I say this because the idea of what this word really, truly meant didn't move me as much emotionally until my organization's visit and move to West Africa. Upon my arrival to Senegal it was definitely a cultural shock. Much different than anything I'd ever experienced. The First thing I thought to myself was "Wow, this is Africa?, it's beautiful!" Growing up in a Western Culture, the depictions of Africa are limited. When you are only shown one thing through media outlets, it's all you know and those preconceived thoughts become ignorance in most cases. The first thing I noticed was the outpouring of love, their giving nature, their joy, happiness and their dedication to God and
Prayer. I immediately fell in love. I felt like I was home for the first time. Being immersed in the culture honestly made me consider that if more people in the world were as disciplined to take time out of their day to honor God in prayer, the world would be a better place. Their gratitude for the smallest things like life, water, food and light really put things in perspective for me. I've since become dedicated to sharing this experience with others. I feel it's important for people to step outside of their cultures into others. In doing so you open yourself up not only to experience something new but to also tap into your own gratitude and realize how grateful you are for the life God has given you.
Cultural Adornments: Showcasing the Filipino Artistry through Traditional Jewelleries By Jefferson Docto Maquiling, Philippines.
Even before the Spaniards colonised the Philippines, gold had a distinct and rich civilization in the country. This is evident in the treasures unearthed from the said period. In addition, several researches affirm to Filipinos’ use of gold ornaments during the pre-colonial times. Regardless of class, age, status, and gender, the ancestors wore gold ornaments and ethnic jewellery pieces such as earrings, earplugs, necklaces, and bracelets as part of their daily outfits. Earrings and Earplugs Both men and women wore earrings and earplugs during the pre-Spanish era. Men pierce their ears with one or two holes per lobe while women puncture theirs with three or four holes per lobe. Listed below are some of the ear accessories they wore in ancient times. • Panika – finger-thick gold rings that were split on the top to be fastened to the earlobe • Pamarang or Barat – large gold earplugs • Dalin-dalin – simple ear loops • Palbad – rosettes worn by women in the uppermost hole • Kayong-kayong – pendant dangling from an earring • Sang – single ring worn in one ear only • Uod – caterpillar-shaped earrings worn and wrapped around the extended earlobe Necklaces and Bracelets Pre-Spanish necklaces and bracelets were made of precious stones and various types of gold beads. Necklaces were in the form of strands, chokers, and collars with some beads shaped like fruits and nuts. Below are some examples of the beads and stones used in ancient necklaces and bracelets.
• Matambukaw – four-sided gold beads • Tinaklum – long and hollow gold beads • Pinoro – fancy finials with granules added to their surface like tiny gold islands • Tinigbi – gold beads shaped like tigbi fruit • Bongan buyo – gold beads shaped like betel nuts • Calombigas – very thick arm bracelets made of gold and of different patterns • Kasikas – gold bands worn around the biceps and above the calves • Lingling-o – used as earrings or necklace pendant and believed to bring luck and fertility to the owner Spanish Colonisation Era During the Spanish-colonial times, Filipinos replaced their pre-colonial ornaments with religious necklaces (tamborin) and a dangling pendant encasing a religious relic (relicario or agnos). Wearing these kinds of necklaces does not only depict the converted Filipino faith but also their creativity and resourcefulness amidst Spanish restrictions. Women also wore bejewelled or golden ornamental combs (peinetas or paynetas) during this period.Though many other artefacts are still waiting to be revealed, one thing is true about the Filipino culture. Regardless of time and even with the absence of modern tools, Filipino artistry is boundless. These treasures not only indicate Filipinos’ beautiful and rich culture, but also their ageless talent, resourcefulness, and ingenuity.
Characteristics of Jewelry in Argentina. By Luz Maria Utrera, Argentina.
One encounters difficulties in discussing jewelry made in Argentina. This is because of the seemingly endless variety of jewelry goods created by artisans and manufacturing firms. In addition to native designs, local artisans and factories reproduce modifications of most of the articles imported from or created in every other manufacturing center in the world. Moreover, fashion experts believe that fashions change in Argentina even more frequently than they do in the United States and Europe.Paris is often still regarded as the center of fashion by the Argentinian locals and the native jewelry trade. Therefore jewelry styles in general follow those prevailing in Paris, preference being given to light artistic designs. Local artisans and manufacturing firms acknowledge that it is easier for the small jewelry makers in Argentina to change their styles of jewelry to meet the needs of the customer or those at home and abroad than it is to change the tastes of their customers. The success that the Argentinaen jewelry makers have attained in world markets is largely due to the fact that they carefully studied the requirements of the U.S., European and other world markets and then properly catered to it.
The tastes of Argentinian jewelry makers turns to light, artistic, but ornate patterns. Objects of nature rather than geometric forms are used as motiffs for design. Elaborate but graceful curves, floral and scroll effects are more frequently employed in Argentina than in the more industrialized fashion and jewelry world centers. Often, jewelry from other parts of the world of simple form and design may be regarded as inartistic. History of Jewelry Making in Argentina. The Second World War (World War II) stimulated the jewelry industry in Argentina. This is so because during this time, Europeans were no longer able to import jewelry from world markets that were engaged in or affected by the War and needed new sources of supply. Status of the Jewelry Industry in Argentina Today. Although jewelry makers from other parts of the world reside in Argentina, most are natives. Their shops, wholesalers and distributors devote their attention almost exclusively to jewelry made partly or entirely of platinum or of 18 Carat gold. Their work in precious metals and stones has rapidly developed to a high state of perfection. Moreover, these jewelers compete variably because they can generally underbid foreign manufacturers whether selling at home or abroad. Also while I was living in Los Angeles in Beverly Hills I met the jewelry designer of Eva Peron, Angel Castelo.
Jewels in the Desert
By J Kurdi, Saudi Arabia.
Saudi Arabia is a large country, it occupies almost three quarters of the arabian peninsula. The bedwin and desert nature of the area, in addition to the wide variety of cutures and traditions of each region, which gives a beautiful effect on all aspects of traditions and cutoms including how women wear their jewelleries and how they are designed. In all of Saudi, jewelleries are made of precious gems and metals like gold, silver, copper and sometimes iron, depending on the finacial and social status of the family. As in most cultures a bride gets the biggest share of jewelleries, as gifts froms relatives and specifically from the groom and his family. In the Central region, yellow gold holds the lead for women to be adorned with, usually encrusted with daimonds, pearls, rubies or emeralds. In the North and South regions, different designs are applied to jewelleries, they are big and heavy and usually crafted from silver as it is cheaper and easier to handle. As for the Eastern region, more modern designs are popular there, as a reason of its exposure to other cultures and sea trade.
Finally, the westren region, where I was born and raised, the traditions in this region when it comes to jewellery are intimate and modern, Jewels are passed from mothers to daughters for generations. In the old days , in most families a "mouyah" set is a must have piece, usually one for each daughter or one for all daughters to wear on thier wedding day with the traditional bridal gown "Zaboun". Depending on the family's status, the number of "mouyah" sets and it’s making differs, a family can share one set or a set will be made for each daughter to wear on her wedding day, it can be made of gold or silver and encrusted with daimonds ( which were called "berlant" at that time ), pearls, rubies or emeralds. The "mouyah" is usually passed from a mother to her daughters to be cherished and worn only on thier wedding days and very special occasions. Other jewellries have more of a modern touch, where white or yellow gold is used to make them and they can be encrusted with all kinds of precious stones and gems depending on the choice of the woman wearing them.
Macedonian Culture Review By Aleksandra Ristovski, Macedonia. Macedonia is a small but wonderful country located in southeastern Europe, on the Balkan Peninsula, bounded by Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece and Albania. It has a population of over two million, where Macedonians constitute nearly two-thirds of the population , with ethnic Albanians, Serbs, Turks, Bosnians, Roma and other groups also living in the country. The country has a mixture of different cultures and a unique system of values, where the family life, hospitality, care for elderly and traditions are highly valued. Mutual recognition and appreciation of cultural differences are important factors that build the peace and harmony among all citizens. It comes as no surprise that Mother Theresa, who was born in Skopje, the capital city of Macedonia, and her personality as a caring, compassionate and generous person, truly represents the soul of the Macedonian people. In addition to the wonderful people, my country will captivate you with its pristine nature and preseved culture heritage. Macedonia is proud to have Ohrid lake as one of the oldest lakes in the world and also one of the deepest in Europe. It is estimated to be 4 million years old and a home of 200 endemic species that haven’t been found at any other place in the world. Because of its beauty and rich and unique flora and fauna Ohrid lake was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO.
On the other end of Macedonia, you will find a place called Kokino. It is, according to NASA, the fourth oldest astronomic observatory in the world. A visit to Kokino, and a view of a sunrise on a beautiful morning will certainly make you understand why the sun is a symbol of modern Macedonia, and maybe help you hear the echoes of the traditional song saying "Where the sun eternally shines, there is Macedonia".
GREEK JEWELLERY By Catherine Vassiliou, Greece. The history of Greek jewellery, starts several millennia ago, also the use of minerals and organic elements , extends to the present days with a remarkable production of unique jewelleries. The first ancient gold jewellery is considered to be constructed around 1500 BC ,although there are many clues to ancient jewellry that built the Minoan civilization of Crete island . But the largest jewellry production ,is observed in Macedonia to Greece ,the western part , where there were gold mines with real high production. Jewelleries, since ancient times until today, are very popular in Greece. The ancient Greeks were regarded as the people, who wore more jewellery than all. Jewelleries in ancient Greece were worn mainly at public appearances, social and religious events by a large population, unlike others, that only just few society classes had this privilege. The history of Greek jewellry dates back to the ulterior years of prehistory. Masterpieces of exceptional finesse and techniques found in Crete island ,as I mentioned above and other islands where the Minoan civilization flourished, amazing findings of Mycenae, culture of the Minoan civilization has formed the basis for the growth and development of the historical Greek culture, that fueled by narrative material the Homeric epics and literature and artistic iconography of antiquity. Modern Greek craftsmen, silver artists, goldsmiths and artists continue to be inspired and create the amazing descriptions of Homer: as the shield of Achilles, the belt of Venus, Golden doors parts of the palace of Troy.
The flowering of Mycenaean culture and gold, was succeeded by the Geometric and Orientalizing period of 1100-800 b.c The wealth of high gold and silver art , will be exploited in the ellenistic period, where after the conquests of Alexander the Great , both gold and precious and semi-precious stones were presented abundantly The result is the Greek jewelry, not only enriched in terms of projecting and accepting the effects of the East, but for the first time the precious and semi-precious stones until now characterized by their absence. The Macedonian metallurgy had reached its peak in the 5th and 4th centuries b.c. The artisans embodied in their structures with admirable perfection all techniques ,which until then had been used during the previous centuries of Greek jewellery. The customs of Macedonia imposed strongly to be eventually buried with much of the valuable objects, hey used in their lives.The ease in the supply of gold will probably be another reason as Greece has a lot of gold as in the gold from the mines of Mount Paggaio, and the Galician river where Macedonians usuall supplied the precious metal for their jewelleries.At the height of the variety, wealth of imagination and grandeur that Greek jewelry reached during the heyday of the Byzantine Empire 10th-11th century around. And 17th-18th century witnessed new blossoms as many of the silversmith centers were emerging in many parts of Greece and the lack of gold was replaced by silver and bronze.
With traditional techniques of filigree, blooms, engraving etc. produced jewelleries that is not lacking in grandeur, elegance and art of the Byzantine period jewelleries. Nowadays, jewels are made of crafts industries for wide consumption in large quantities. But also there are many good Greek jewellery designers who are inspired by the perfectionism of gold from the older times. Today, one has the possibility to admire Greek jewelleries from ancient times, like Minoan ,Mycenae civilizations and in Vergina town the huge gold collections of Alexander the Great and his family of the unbelievably beautiful gold jewelleries , to the biggest museums. For sure will admire the sparkle and the unique techinique on gold of the Ancient Greek civilazation. Also there is a museum of Elias Lalaounis and its very interesting for someone to visit and see the new jewelleries since the period of 1940.
African JEWELLERY Review Archaeologists have found beaded necklaces and beads buried with chiefs and kings in ancient African graves. Wearing and most importantly owning an old African jewelry or bead is believed to provide wisdom, hope, luck and well-being to its owner. Economical and traditional African Jewelry, showcases a huge selection of African necklaces, African earrings and African bracelets, for you to own and wear. Almost all of African products are handmade, so you’re sure to get something special and unique. These days it is so easy to find such products because almost every online shop has something from famous African cultur. In all African societies throughout history, the type and level of jewelry worn represents the wealth of the wearer. Rulers and chiefs from some parts of Africa wore different beads using their company subjects to distinguish themselves as the ruler or chief. In Africa art of jewelry making was encouraged to show that the rulers had a prosperous kingdom. Definitely jewelry is an important part for Africans.In some elements of Africa, a person’s wealth is measured by the number of livestock he owns. As soon as livestock is killed regarding food, every part in the animal is used. So the bones usually are crafted into jewelry for them to be used for a thing. They believe that if a person is wearing many bits of bone jewelry, he may be pretty wealthy and lucky.
Golden crown Funerary or marriage material, 360–370 BC. From a grave in Armento (Basilicata)