1145
MM
CR K OC NIT HE T - SEW HO BB Y
by
Made by me
Issue One
Separate booklet with
189
patterns
KNIT trendy
New
In collaboration with designer TINE SOLHEIM
designer fashion D&G ★ Chanel ★ Prada ★ Gaultier
RuggedDetails:
Latest News Make home accessories Cushions ★ Pouffes ★ Blankets Cool designs for Jewelry ★ Bags ★ Scarves
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Contents 58
5
Catwalk 4 soft stitches Fashion knits straight from the catwalk
85 INSPired by DIOR 106 Cool designer stitches Make your own D&G or Prada model
Children 67 EENY, MEENY... Cute garments for small children
122 NEW KIDS IN TOWN Tough fashion for large children
Interiors 54 knit a livingroom 124 Bathroom de-luxe
100
For the boys 12 Cool knits 3 sweaters with cables
98 ARNE & CARLOS
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Accessories & Sewing 21 GoldEN GLAMOUR Ribbons and buttons
32 velvet & jewelry 66 Hot Stuff 95 black GLAM Lace and Sequins
Our creative team: Photographer: Charlotte Spetalen Her creativity, especially with underwater poetic pictures, are widely known. Charlotte is also contributing with exciting picture series in MbyM. E-mail: charlotte@spetalen.no Website: charlottespetalen.com
Photographer: Nils Skogstrøm Young, creatvie and exciting photographer with a grasp of cover, outdoors- and indoors photography, fashion, action, children and art inspired still life as in “Velvet and Jewelry”. E-mail: mail@nilsskogstrom.com Website: www.nilsskogstrom.com
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Stylist Johanna Ljunglöf A magican with brushes and pencils in the makeup kit, and with experience from advertising, film, TV and fashion. E-mail: johanna@makeupcreations.no SAUCHA, hairdresser Ellen Devold Sedlmayer Saucha means clean in Sanskrit. Ellen focuses on the use of natural products, places the customer in focus, and serves amazing teas in beautiful cups. Holtegata 32, 0355 OSLO. Tel: +47 22 60 94 20 E-mail: saucha@saucha.no
SIMONA art of fashion Rolf’s sense of style, shape and colour as well as selecting quality brands and incredibly cool shoes saves us no end with creative input to clothes and accessories for photography. E-mail: post@simona.no Website: www.simona.no Art Director: Maria Smith Nygård With creative solutions, play and humor, she manages the incredibly patience demanding puzzle of piecing 189 patterns beautifully in the magazine and structurally in the pattern booklet. E-mail: maria.nygard@egmonthm.no
Art Complexion Make-up school with creative teachers and pupils, who take on extra commissions. Website: www.artcomplexion.no
MM by
You can if you want to
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Articles 22 trends for women 42 The duo who stretch the elastic a bit longer Artist Portrait
81 CAMILLA ULVUND New Norwegian designer
104 Trends for men
Fashion Garments 15 Scottish squares from the ’50s 26 RETRO Colourwork for women and men
48 BOY MEETS GIRL Jackets, sweaters, vests and accessories.
80 Granny squares Classical squares in coats and bag.
96 Warm Around the Neck Five fine scarves and a handbag
128 knit two & purl two Hats and scarf with fur pom-poms.
130 LATTE & MACHIATO Stunning garments in coffee colours.
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Cover photo: Model: Celina fra Team Models Make-up: Johanna Ljunglöf Hair: Ellen Devold Sedlmayer Styling: Tine Solheim Photo: Nils Skogstrøm Cover sweater is pattern #22 in the pattern booklet.
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Finally, we have our own creativity magazine! A bubbly, inspiring magazine with more than 200 pages of ideas and patterns for jackets, coats, sweaters, dresses, tunics, cushions, blankets, bags, jewelry, hats, scarves and much more; which you can knit, crochet, sew and make for yourself; for children and youngsters, for your home and for the boys! We are born into a creative environment where we create on all levels: in our relationships with other people, in our jobs, and with unlimited possibilities for shaping our lives. It is all about logging onto a source, and it’s inexhaustible - believe me! And if you start one place, it is as if it spreads into all other areas in your life. It is, in other words mega-cool! We girls are multi-taskers by nature, so to knit, crochet, make jewelry and simple bags; you can easily do while you are sitting on the sofa watching television. You can make something cool for yourself, or something to give away, something nobody else has, something that is inspired by great designers such as Dior, Chanel and Dolce & Gabbana, and create it with care, pleasure, good materials and give it your own personal expression! Do not let limiting thoughts such as “ I cannot do this - I have never done this before” stop you, this is where this new magazine comes in! We will serve you a bunch of fashionable and cool ideas, and I will contribute with everything I picked up as a five year old who learnt to crochet, make lace, and things I have learnt at Haute Couture school in Paris, with everything I have learnt and experienced though 30 years of designer life with sewing to measurements, clothes for singers and artists, theatre costumes, fashion collections, uniforms, children and sportswear, and last but not least, from knitting and crocheting for weekly magazines, catalogues and in 3 books, during the last 6 years. There is a deep truth in old sayings such as “You can if you want to” and “The first a master does is to teach”, so become your own master, find your own expression, create a creative and cool life for yourself and hence others!
“Creativity is inventing, experimenting, growing, taking risks, breaking rules, making mistakes, and having fun»
Tine Solheim, Creative Editor
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From the catwalk
SOFT
Stitches Here you can roam in patterns for gorgeous vests, jackets, sweaters and accessories straight from the catwalk. Photography & Artwork: Miroe Production: Petra Knoblauch Translations: May Britt Bjella Zamori
This autumn you can choose from several trends and colour palettes: The natural and ethnic in grey tones, beige, sheep-brown and off-white; and from the retro period: clear red, royal blue, neon yellow and proper orange.
The soft vest in double moss stitch has cable details on the pockets and on the shoulders. Waterfall on dresses and sweaters have long been one of the favourite details of the designers. A look created by the long scarf. Notice the knitted belt tied at the waist. Roll the ‘baghat’ at the bottom and leave it hanging to one side — for a cool look!
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L. beccaria
1, 2, 3 Long vest, hat and scarf
4 Ballet Pullover
alexander wang
These ballet pullovers were ‘it’ at the beginning of the ’80s. In France they are called the Cache Coeur meaning protecting the heart. This can also be used on top of trousers, tights and skirts, but it is also stunning, as seen in the catwalk photo, worn with a tight, stretchy mini dress and long boots reaching above the knees.
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5 Folklore Vest
JP. gaultier
Retro and ethnic are trends to stay for awhile. This vest from JeanPaul Gautier is from one of his recent winter collections. When the great innovative designers launch a trend, it will continue for years among the more commercial collections who benefit from this. There is a zip in the centre front, but if you find it too difficult to insert, you might as well chose to crochet loops and attach toggles.
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"An elegant woman does not bicycle"
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Christian Dior
“Norwegian pattern” they call this in Europe. A bit odd because the pattern is four assembled lilies whose origin are from southern Europe, near the Mediterranean Sea, and was used in the French Royal Seal among others. A ‘wow’ jacket, not likely to go out of fashion, just like our Norwegian traditional cardigans and sweaters.
D&G
7 Retro Jacket
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8 Leggings
d&g
Knit the leggings Dolce & Gabbana had in their famous, Norwegian inspired collection. Wear the leggings outside the boots so that you can fold the rib into the boots at the top, and keep warm.
9 Cowl
l.beccaria
This is a fun knitting technique where you cable on both sides of the work. When you purl on the wrong side, you cable. If you can make your own models, this pattern is fun to use on an oversized sweater.
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�It should be a pleasure to dress, not a duty�
10 Patchwork Sweater Just Cavalli showed this sweater, apparently a patchwork sweater made of remnants, but really, carefully composed in colour, shape, and knitting style. Notice the different yarns, colours, ribs, cables and patterns all over the sweater. Wear it with shorts or on much colder days with rib-knitted tights.
just cavalli
Giorgio Armani
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11 Fringed Sweater
C´n´c
The sweater itself is knitted in Half Fisherman’s Rib, while the fringes are partly 12 and 20 cm long and on both sides of the sweater. There is also a pattern for the long scarf you can see on the catwalk photo, knitted in Fisherman’s Rib on www.mbymmagazine. com. Extra long fringes are the whole clue here. Use the garment as a sweater or as a minidress with chunky tights and over-knee boots.
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”A woman is fantastic as a 20 year old, charming as a 40 year old and irresistable her whole life ”
12 Inca Jacket
chanel
Coco Chanel
Chanel’s collection was very ethnically inspired. This one makes clear referencess to garments still worn by the Inca Indians in Peru. The jacket has a zip in the front. The longhaired fur yarn creates a natural look, but contemporary and trendy. The jacket itself is knitted sideways, while the arms are knitted longways.
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13 Light-grey sweater The Sweater becomes handsome.... with chunky cables, no rib and a rough neck. Knit it in a soft yarn, that does not itch, to make sure it will be used a lot!
Cool Knits
for tough men Handsome sweater with details such as chunky cables, wide ribs and elbow patches Design Erika knight Martin storey PHotos peter Christian christensen & istock
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14 charcoal sweater A new and creative take on a classic Aran pattern. The mid panel is knitted in seed stitch, while the rest of the sweater is knitted in reverse stocking stitch to contrast the chunky cables.
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15 corn-yellow sweater This sweater looks as if it was inspired by an old photo of a farm-boy. The details like the wide rib and the practical elbow patches are ‘rugged’ additions.
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Design: Debbie Bliss PHoto: Richard Burns Styling: Mia Pejcinovic TRANSLATION: Kari Henriksen Hopland Adaptation: Tine Solheim
16 HANDBAG Knit a classical bag in Argyle pattern inspired by the Scottish Campbell tartan. The argyle pattern is recognizable by the large diamond squares in different connections, preferably with another smarter square pattern on top. The famous Scottish terrier is also included... two of them!
You will find patterns to this chapter on page 7 in the pattern booklet.
Scottish Tartan patterns from the ’50s If you are you tempted by the clothes and the style of the cosy British series on television, this is the time you give in!
Y
oung girl and housewife style from the post-war years and the beginning of the 1950’s with cardigans and knee-length skirts is one of the hottest trends! Chanel, Prada, Yves St. Laurent, and not least Kenzo, show squares in classical tartan editions and more colourful variations rule.
17 TAM The hat in fairisle stripes, can be worn in different ways: as shown or more towards the back of the head.
But to see her was to love her, Love but her, and love forever. Robert burns
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Xxxxxxx. Denne k책pen er strikket i en veldig lett, nesten utvunnet kvalitet i blandingen 70 % babyalpakka, 10 % ull og 20 % nylon p책 p nr. 9.
18 CARDIGAN This cardigan is a typical example of the famous English fairisle technique named after the small island Fair Isle north of Scotland. The narrow, colourful pattern borders are characteristic of these garments. Fairisle knits were incredibly popular from the 1920s when the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VIII. wore vests in this old knitting technique. This cardigan has a modern twist with a bright red rib, brown buttonband with turquoise buttons.
se oppskrift p책 side ...
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19 PULLOVER Beautiful, colourful border composition makes this pullover splendid to combine with everything from jeans, hunting clothes, ski-pants, or like here, with a flowery skirt. Notice the set in shoulders. Attach a small shoulder pad to achieve straight, fairly broad shoulders, a typical fashion statement straight from the post-war era, re-invented in the 1980’s. Shoulderpads are on they way back in! 18
Oh, my luve’s like a red, red rose, That’s newly sprung in June; Oh, my luve’s like a melodie That’s sweetly played in tune.
Robert burns
20 SHAWL Fresh colour combinations in complimentary colours. Cerise and lime green in this lovely shawl with squared pattern. Use it as here, almost like a vest with a narrow belt on top, or as a cosy blanket in your favourite armchair.
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21 MITTENS Very colourful and fun mittens in Fairisle patterns. Note the stripy rib.
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PHotoS: Petter Berg
n e d l o G r u o m a gl
3 2 4
1
Mix feathers and fur with knit and obtain a unique expression!
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10
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9 As seen in our original Norwegian edition, these were just too beautiful to omit. Please visit www.mbymmagazine.com for possible substitutions and sources. 1. Leather cord & trim sold by the metre - Hjelmtvedt. 2. Organza ruched ribbon on elastic -Hjelmtvedt. 3. Selection of satin and glossy silk ribbons - Hjelmtvedt. The fur pom-pom is attached to wire - Perlehuset.4. Gold sequin ribbon - Hjelmtvedt. 5. Exciting fine wooden closures & carved wooden buttons from Mauds garn. 6. Hat pom-poms - Hjelmtvedt.7. All the decorative ribbons lying flat in the middle are from Perlehuset. 8. This line of wood and bone buttons are from Perlehuset. 9. Agraman closure and leather closure with a gold button - Perlehuset. 10. Rabbit-fur tail sold by the metre in several brown/natural colours - Hjelmtvedt. 11. Silk flowers in many sizes, colours and shapes - Hjelmtvedt. 12. Gold ribbon sold by the metre 21
kenzo Adam
SONIA RYKIEL
Fashion Report Xxxxxx: xxxxxxxxx
TREND: retro Sonja Rykiel shows a colourful collection with creative knit variations of our Norwegian Selbu rose together with the skipants we remember from the ’60s. New to several collections is the combination of knit and fabric, here with quilted sleeves in shiny satin.
k l a w t a CTrends
tREND: native Adam Lippes is an up-andcoming American designer who combines the sporty with disco and feathers. This classic, Aran inspired sweater is a bit different, combining seed stitch with cables.
TREND: natural mix has for a rare occaKenzo sion a very toned-down collection in earthy colours, though in patchwork and with brocade ribbons. Oversized knitwear in melange mega thick yarn on extreme needles becomes a large contrast to the flowing patchwork garments in chiffon.
Made by hand - Handicraft is clearly the trend among the great designers. Handmade
clothes are exclusive, real, ’the
TREND: mixed-media
real thing’ and ‘good energy’. tExt: Tine Solheim phOTOs: gv-PRESS & Bulls
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alexander mcqueen
T
here are plenty of sweaters, jackets, shawls, ponchos, skirts, dresses, coats and accessories knitted or crochet by hand in this autumn’s collections. Thick yarns on large needles, boucle yarn, melanges, Irish Aran cables and ethnical/ inca inspired pattterns are repeated by many designers. The colour palette is mainly in black, charcoal and grey tones, black/ white melanges and pattern combinations, quite a bit of white and light beige, but luckily still a part bright colours such as orange, red, yellow, apple green and royal blue, so it is more or less anything goes!
The creative and innovative collections of Alexander McQueen are brilliantly taken forward by designer Sarah Burton, who also designed the wedding dress to Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. This coat is knitted in melange boucle yarn with fur and the central zip makes it hip!
Yet another ethnic inspired knitted garment. This time maybe more Inca inspired, with the strong colours often used by the indians in the mountains of Peru. Narrow borders in many strong colours - recognisable from our own knit traditions of the 1960’s.
TREND: Dark Magic ”The world is a dark place” claimed Karl Lagerfeld, presenting his Gothic inspired collection in grandiose surroundings at Grand Palais in Paris. This time the show was accompanied by the French composer Michael Gaubert’s violent piece The Forest. Worn together with this dramatic melange knitting cape are practical laced shoes with leggings and long knitted wrist warmers. CHANEL
SONIA RYKIEL
tREND: inca palette
CHANEL
Chanel has a lot of black/white melange and boucle effects in their dark, Gothic inspired collection. A knitted dress is magnificent to wear during the winter’s party season in a cold climate, but you should be tall and slender to wear this one! Notice the spider net gloves and the stunning spider inspired necklace with occult details!
Moschino
TREND: salt & pepper
Akris is a Swiss company from 1922, fairly unknown in Norway, but pretty large in Europe. They show stunning crochet dresses and jackets in treble crochet/US: double crochet If you are good at crocheting, you can make this a cool jacket!
AKRIS
TREND: 1970’s Crochet
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This poncho looks amazingly cool but is probably impossible to wear with such long fringes.
ALIVERO MARTINI
Stella McCartney is the epitome of the new, simple, clean trend in primary cutting. Actually, there are quite a lot of oversized basic knits in garter-stitch in many collections, something that is easy for a new knitter.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
STELLA MCCARTNEY
tREND: shaggy dog
tREND: pure & simple
tREND: multi-colour Here is a designer who has exhilarated into granny squares. A fabric print of the famous squares has been made and the collection contains everything from long dresses, tops and skirts in printed stretchy fabrics to “laque� raincoats.
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Another Gothic inspired knit combination from Karl Lagerfeld. The sweater worn tREND: under is machine patchwork knitted, while the Applications and certain chunky melange material combinations are something you see in several jacket is knitted on collections, these are embroi- large needles. Note the stripy wrist dered on top of the cut-out warmers. fabric, with beads and sequins sewn on top.
CHANEL
ICEBERG
Moschino
tREND: YOUNG URBAN
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
TREND: black drama
Adam
This large black shawl with long fringes in a very special spun thick yarn is knitted in a square pattern using stocking and garter stitch.
TREND: graphic art
Find all the remnants you have and crochet this long shawl. Further back in the magazine we have a pattern for a long jacket with a shawl collar in the same granny squares. This is a perfect beginner project if you want to learn to crochet.
GUCCI
TREND: granny squares
TREND: fashionista Even ladies suits should be knitted now, using melange yarns and garter. Fur is persistently used in many knit combinations, both real and fake fur. Notice the long, shiny patent boots.
ICEBERG
EMPORIO ARMANI
Numerous designers show long, flowing knitted coats, this is divine. Notice that the trousers have a high waist, finally!
TREND: Mixed BOUCLÉ This jacket is probably made of a knitted fabric with large loops but you could easily make your own oversized jacket using a chunky melange fashion yarn.
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22 BLACK MEDLEY SWEATER & SCARF Melange in big contrasts is in fashion this autumn. This yarn is new to the Norwegian market and can be used for boys and girls. Knit the sweater in a large size for boys, preferably with a long scarf to match but possibly with shorter fringes.
Retro Knit retro-inspired jackets
in chunky yarns using large needles with traditional Norwegian patterns. Design: Tine Solheim PHoto: Nils Skogstrøm make-up & hair: Art Complexion
A
fter many years of fleece sweaters for teenagers, hand knitted garments are a hit. The short cardigans can be used by both boys and girls, knit them in fitting colour combinations. The body is knitted in rows, to avoid steeking, and raw edges are secured with a ribbon. But you can, of course, change the pattern to knitting in the round to avoid knitting colour work on the wrong side. Do take care to weave in yarn not in use to avoid long loops. All the cardigans have buttonbands with nice toggles made of horn.
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His & Hers
23 BEIGE CARDIGAN HOODIE This jacket is knitted in a large size, fit for a boy, but even girls think it is cool with such large, cosy cardigans. This model has straight pockets.
Tonight I will close the door and just think of you. I wonder if the loneliness will find me, still?
Inger Hagerup
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24 3/4 LENGTH JACKET This jacket does not have pockets but you can always add some, if you want to. The bottom edges have minicables. The seam around the sleeves is made on the right side to create a ‘rugged’ style. All edges are made using orange yarn and garter stitches.
25 SLOUCHY HAT The edge of the hat is knitted in garter stitch with orange and mini cables, while the slouch is large and placed at the back.
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26 DARK BROWN HOODIE The red stripes are knitted in garter stitch, a tough detail. The hood is rounded at the end since pointy hoods are not cool on boys. The pockets are attached diagonally, knitted at the end.
Life is what happens around you while you are busy making other plans.
John Lennon
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27 JEANS BLUE HOODIE Here you see how rugged the jacket is together with jeans both for girls and boys. Both the sleeves and the hood joins are done on the right side revealing the seams to make the cardigan rougher in its design. You can also see how the diagonal pockets are knitted and attached at the end.
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"Every generation imagines itself to be more intelligent than the one that went before it, and wiser than the one that comes after it."
George Orwell
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Tines atelier
VELVET & JEWELRY Take out your sewing machine, it’s fashionable to sew. Here are patterns for jewelry. This is how you can create your own personalized party outfit from top to bottom. DESIGN & STYLING: TINE SOLHEIM PHOTO: NILS SKOGSTRØM LOCATION: RESTAURANT EIK, HOTEL CONTINENTAL
H
ow amazing to create your own, unique jewelry and match it with a stunning velvet dress you have made yourself? Velvet is on the way into fashion this autumn, and many of the
32 mbym.no 2011
great designers have gorgeous velvet in their collections for the first time since the 1980s. You can see dresses, blouses, jackets, shorts, knee trousers and skirts from Emporio Armani.
PEARL-GREY VELVET DRESS
You will find patterns for this chapter on page 12 in our pattern booklet.
mbym.no 2011
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BLACK RUCHED SKIRT The skirt is a circle, top part in velvet and bottom part in taffeta.
t i e, m a g a y l on ot n Life is es s o r on e c n a d a o s l a is
UNKNOWN
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BLACK VELVET DRESS
BRACELET is a shiny, double leather string with charms worn twice around your wrist. The closure is the large knot threaded through a loop.
LARGE, DOUBLE-LOOP CREOLE EAR-RINGS with silver and glass beads in different sizes.
THREE BRACELETS Thin, plaited leather string with a heart; plaited bracelet with knot and charms and leather strap with punched studs in different shapes.
EARRINGS Large thin earrings with oval Swarovski Elements in Crystal and thin, black feathers.
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The velvet roses are made of a double strip bias cut, then ruched together.
RED CORSETED TOP
BRACELETS One is in red macrame with red faceted beads. The other is with red, facet cut Swarovski crystals. The third is a long, brown plaited leather string worn twice around the wrist, with golden Swarovski pendants. See these all again on pages 40 and 41. 36
RED VELVET DRESS
As eternity is reckoned there’s a lifetime in a second.
Piet Hein
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BROWN TUNIC
TWO BRACELETS Wide leather bracelet with punched studs. Double beige, shiny leather string with silver charms. The closure is a silver piece that is attached in the loop on the strap. An oval keeper can be slid over so the lock is secure.
Jewelry STAND: 1. Thick earrings in silver with large removable Swarovski Elements drops in White Opal. 2. Thin earrings and short links in silvered metal with Swarovski Elements crystals, 2 small Sand Opal and a large crystal in the middle. 3. Silvered metal balls with dark blue strass stones and Swarovski drops in Rose Alabast. 4. Silvered ear hooks and leaves in black metal with round Swarovski Elements pendant in Crystal. 5. These exclusive six edged Swarovski crystals used to be produced for use in large chandeliers. 6. Earrings in gold coloured metal, small gold coloured metal leaves and red Swarovski Elements hearts.
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J ewelry is the spice of 9
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Swarovski has lately served some smart solutions, such as holes in crystals and stones which allows you to change stones in earrings and match your clothing. No 10 is from www.pandurohobby.no, the remainder from www.perlehuset.no. These items are also available from other online vendors. 7. Swarovski Elements disco balls in Crystal, fits the long necklace in the middle of the stand. 8. Large, thin earrings in silvered metal, oval Swarovski Elements in Crystal and thin black feathers. 9. See no 1: The white drops are exchanged with Swarovski Elements drops in Crystal Silver Night. 10. Creole earrings with silver beads and an angle in the middle. 11. Earrings in silvered metal, swallows in pewter and Swarovski Elements pendant in a cool grey mosaic colour. 12. Swarovski Elements drops in Jet, small round slices of brushed metal on silvered earrings. 13. Ear hooks in silvered metal with a spiral and a small ball. Short bits of brown plaited
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leather cord, end piece in metal, at the bottom Swarovski Elements balls in Crystal Golden Shadow. 14. Thin, golden coloured metal rings, small Swarovski Elements crystals in autumn Topaz and a copper coloured ball in the middle. 15. Flat Swarovski Elements attach-crystals in Vintage Rose and small, brushed leaves in copper coloured metal. 16. Bracelet with Swarovski Elements Pearls in chocolate brown Maroon, small Swarovski Elements crystals in Montana blue and discs in silver with stones in Crystal. 17. Long, silvered link with large Swarovski Elements ball in Crystal, pendant in pewter and a small Swarovski Elements heart in Light Siam red.
GREY/SILVER BRACELET Bracelets made in macramĂŠ technique are in again! Here are two made in dark-grey and two in light-grey, plaited with attached, faceted stones. You can also see a bracelet in elastic, threaded with large silver balls, and one of a silver leather strap with punched studs.
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Large, double Creole rings, silver.
Pendants with a red heart.
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Brown plaited leather string with clasp.
Medium large Creole Rings, silver. Earrings with birds.
Earrings with facets and silver decorations
30 Large Creole rings, gold.
Gold earrings with red hearts.
Earrings with bronze leaves.
Earrings with facetted balls
Bejewel yourself Here you can take a closer look at the stunning jewelry that was shown on
Brown bracelet and earrings.
the previous pages.
41
Red bracelet and earrings
Blue earrings with pink pendant. Large, earrings with thin, black feathers.
42 Bracelet silver, beads and Buddah Burgundy corseted top dress
40
MacramĂŠ bracelets Earrings with opals.
Black leather string with pendants. Earrings with silver link.
Silver leather bracelet
Rose
40
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38
Black rose dress
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Next issue
Peace necklace
33 Earrings in leather with faceted balls
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Brown, round leather string.
Broad leather Bracelet
Fall – Number 2 Brown tunic
Earrings with silver leaves. Earring in gold with balls.
Earrings with metallic facets.
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Light grey velvet dress with belt
Ruched skirt with velvet roses.
Black leather bracelet with studs
36 Black plaited leather string with heart.
35 Plaited leather string with knot.
SHAGGY DOG: Long, dishevelled fringes both made of yarn, fabric and leather.
41
Artist portrait
Anne Grut Sørum
Rita Nylander
The Duo
who stretch the elastic a bit further
If you are strolling on Trondheim’s pier, and place your ear against the tower house, you can hear the sound of futuristic, sculptural fashion grow from the knitting machines. Here new creations are passing: everything from tradition and national romantic. 42
BY: FRØYDIS BENESTAD HÅGVAR
PHOTO: LASSE BERRE
A
t the very same moment I am knocking on the workshop door, I nearly tumble over a pair of very colourful pumps. They are placed on the middle of the door mat, as an alternative “Welcome” sign. I regain my balance and continue knocking without receiving any response. Realising that the noise from the workshop drowns everything else, I just walk straight in. “Hello,” I shout, while I sneak into the workshop. The walls are an explosion of colours, they are wallpapered with dramatic knitted dresses on hangers, edgy model photos and original photographs. I quickly locate the sound. It is coming from a knitting machine, manoeuvered by a deeply concentrating woman. I wave my arms in front of her. She jumps to her feet with a smile and introduces me to buns with spread from the local petrol station, coffee and her partner (in crime) Anne. “You know, when we started in 1997 and told people we were into knit, everyone just rolled their eyes, says Anne.”
We have to do completely wild things now and then “They obviously had strong images in their heads and were simply condescending. Then we realised that we had to make an exhibition to show that knit can be cool. We called it ‘YAZZAA’ and that made the attitude change a bit. Now, even the art & design museum — NKIM in Trondheim has bought some of our dresses, to our thrill. Then it feels like they will live forever, and that is important to us.” The ladies behind DUODU, Rita Nylander and Anne Grut Sørum, are a duo indeed. Not only have they started a successful business together, but they interrupt and finish each others sentences. At times it can be hard to distinguish between who says what, it feels like I have switched-on a local two headed Duracell rabbit. Now, they are pointing to the creations hanging along the walls, and they are everything but traditional. All of them belong to their Unika line and consist of knitted dresses with sculptural forms, strong colours; and protruding, volume giving garter-ridges. One of the dresses looks like a breast-plate; it is made of knitted links, which are hooked into each other. Yes, that dress was actually a pure experiment, Anne laughs. Rita joins in. “We have
to do completely wild things, now and then, you understand, without considering the user friendliness. Just play freely and stretch the creativity to the limit. The inspiration for our link dress came from a photo we took on the quay-side of a rusty chain. We just had to make it. But I had to admit that did have some doubtful moments on the way, where we wondered why on earth we used our time on this madness. We have to do completely wild things, now and then.” CLASSY INNOVATION How do you characterize your style? Rita shoots three knitting fingers in the air and leans forward: “We can sum up with three words: Fun, simple and elegant. In addition to having a bit of ‘oomph’. Many claim that the clothes also have something sculptural about them.” “And a bit of the Matrix,” Anne shouts from the sofa. “In addition, we are also concerned with choosing models who underpin/support our expression in the right way. Then they will radiate strength and stand confidently on their own. A Unika woman usually has ‘backbone’ and is secure. And if she is not, she will probably become so when she wears one of our dresses?” “Simplicity is probably another good characteristic,” Rita continues. “Sometimes we think ‘now then, we should let go and make something really maxi malistic’, but it always ends by us paring it down to the bone. We just have to realise it, it’s our style,” she chuckles. “Now, we have just been down to the quay here and taken lots of photos. There is a strong change in this area now. From being seen as a tacky neighbourhood, it is on the way to becoming ‘gentrified’, redeveloped and cleaner, and then a lot of the old charm disappears. And that’s a pity, in a way. We
Duodu
Facts about
Clothing brand started in 1997 by Rita Nylander (born 1958) and Anne Grut Sørum (born 1959). Focuses mainly on knit, but also have individual elements of goat- and elk leather. Have a workshop in Trondheim, where they themselves sit and knit the most artistic garments, called “Unika”. The other line is produced by Selbu Husflid (ed: Homecraft). They have held many exhibitions at home and abroad, sold garments to NKIM (ed: Arts & Design Museum) in Trondheim and have received the nomination for Good Design from Norwegian Design Council in 2001. A Unika garment costs between 15 000 and 20 000 NKR. The series produced collection is lower in price and starts at 2 000 NKR. Clothes from the the two lines can easily be combined, since they are knitted by the same type of yarn.
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actually think that everything rusty is so beautiful and will use it as inspiration for a choice of palette and form of expression.” Are Norwegians positive about such nontraditional knitwear design? “Jens Stoltenberg’s (ed: Prime Minister) wife Ingrid Schulerud wore one of our dresses at the opening of the Opera,” says Anne with a smile. “But it should be said that we have two lines. One is more commercial — produced by Selbu husflid (ed: homecraft) and sold in shops — while everything you see here in the workshop belongs to the Unika line. That’s the most artistic line and our baby. Both production and the supply are done here in the workshop, and we do everything ourselves. The customers that come here also have the possibility of communicating their own design wishes and therefore become part of the process. Often we sit down with them and sketch. When they come back and try on the finished result, they straighten their backs and shine. One customer said she would run home and clean her wardrobe before hanging her new dress there. Another was going to use the dress defending her P.h.D and was originally very nervous, but exclaimed when she put her dress on: ‘Now, it does not matter what I say!’ It is so much fun when our garments give people self confidence and pleasure. Actually, a some of our customers are architects. It’s possibly because they like the sculptural and the luxury, but within a strict limit. The majority are in the age group between 40 and 60 years old, but all age groups are represented.” “Do you remember the man who asked us to make him a party outfit?” asks Rita addressing Anne. She nods enthusiastically. “He was so tired of both his national costume and suit and wanted
something totally different. So we ended up making trousers, shirt, vest and accessories for him. He was extremely pleased!” “But we did not make him knitted trousers though,” Anne laughs, wrinkles her nose and smiles crookedly. “We receive a lot of nice feedback from men who like their wife’s new outfit, she continues. “I think it is because our design is architectural and stylish at the same time. Once we received a cheque from a man who was paying for his wife’s dress, he had added a note for us where it said, ‘Thank you for my wife’s stunning dress!’ That is fun!” The ladies tell that they have also knitted both christening- and wedding dresses to order, which they thought they would never do. But wool — in general — is a forgiving material which can be used for everything. It is elastic, does not crease and does not cling to the body. Sometimes they also supplement their collections with locally sourced goat and elk-skin leather. “The mixture of knit, leather andfur is fantastic,” says Anne. “It is something to do with the contrast that is so right.”
It is so much fun when our garments give people self-confidence & pleasure
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LOVE OF HANDICRAFT Duodu’s main powerhouse is the handicraft. Every single stitch is knitted with precision, patience and pleasure. They try to sit by the knitting machine every day. Pauses stifle creativity — ideas often occur during the work. “To create everything yourself can be compared with falling in love,” says Rita with a dreaming glance. “The feeling of sitting in front of the knitting machine with only a thread in front of you, and to see the that the product becomes like the image you have inside your head, is a indescribable feeling. Those creative processes are, yes more or less ...” She runs out of words and leaves the communication to her body, which quivers of joy, and arms are waiving backwards and forwards to illustrate that the process is like an all consuming intoxication. “Yes, we are a bit old fashioned like that,” says Anne. “Unfortunately a lot of the old handicraft has been forgotten. Everything is supposed to go fast now. You only have to think about how it was just a hundred years ago; they had to cut, card and spin the wool,
The creative process can be compared to falling in love cultivate the flax to make linen and weave. Therefore people wore their garments with a lot more pride and love. We probably work in the old tradition and have faith that what takes time to create, also becomes the best. You have to caress the process, just as a cook makes food with love. In the beginning, we were uncertain whether our customers were bothered to wait for two months before the dress was in stock. The shops are bulging with easily accessible clothes! But now we realise that they love to have something to look forward to. The dress becomes even more important to them that way. We also wrap it nicely in a beautiful box and this enhances the pleasure of buying. Anyway,
we are not part of the ever-changing trends, which limit the selection in the shops. Here women can come, take a breather and find something that fits both their personality and body. We do not operate with an autumn/ winter and spring/summer collection. Here, we work at our own speed, and then release the garments.
TECHNIQUE FUSION The way you work resembles Haute CoutureArt, where everything is made by hand and the artistic is in focus. How did you learn handicraft? “I had always done handicraft in my spare
time, but I am actually educated as a teacher of biology and as a PA,” says Anne. “When my children grew up, I went to Oslo and gained further education in shaped knitwear at KHIO; Oslo National Academy of the Arts. Afterwards I took a masters degree in the colouring of knitted textiles. It was pioneering work at that time — colouring of patterns on knitted textiles. The basis was a Japanese technique called shibori and the challenge was how to achieve the pattern you desire.
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She refers to a multicoloured dress in a photograph, which is coloured after her own hand-drawn design. “There is no yarn like this,” she continues. “So what I did was to knit it in black and white, before I dyed it. When you make batik on a cotton fabric, you use wax to achieve patterns, but when working in wool that is not possible. Dying wool demands such a high temperature that the wax melts. So my challenge was then to find new techniques to achieve the patterns I wanted. It was fantastic to blow away the old limitations of where to place the pattern, to be able to bind up the threads, the floats, on the reverse of the textile. In addition, I have learnt a great deal from my grandmother on my mother’s side. Her knowledge has been invaluable.” PRISON ASSISTANT Rita, on the other hand, has no art background. With laughter in her voice she reveals that she was given a knitting machine as a gift as a child, but is educated as a prison assistant, and that the meeting with Anne was pure coincidence. “Mutual friends introduced us to each other,” she continues. “I had done handicraft privately and had a small workshop down in the city, but had no plans of expanding. When I met Anne it was chemistry straight away. First, we planned to have separate workshops next door, and just meet at lunch, but then we became so engaged in each others’ projects that we ended up joining the whole thing.” Do you always agree? “Yes. You know, we have never argued,” says Anne. “It is probably because we have a kind of mutual understanding when something is good and readily worked. At worst, we can disagree on which colour the garment should be, but then we just make one in each colour. Rita is the person I spend most time with. We work together in the workshop every single day, and often on the way home we call each other because we have some new ideas to share. This autumn we went on a study tour to New York. We booked one room since we keep talking long into the night, anyway.” And then they laugh again, synchronized. They giggle between themselves at how dependent they are on each other and how hopelessly well-joined they are. DESIGNING WITH WOOL “But there are a lot of advantages of being
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We have a complete fear that administration will consume all of our time ‘two’,” continues Anne. “We actually have the time and resources to have two lines going at the same time. We always make sure that at least one of us is working on Unika, so that not all the time is consumed by the more mass-produced goods.” They also write future dates in the calendar for exhibitions — so that they have something to work torwards. Do you have to think differently when you design in knit compared to other fabrics? “Maybe a bit, because knit is such an elastic material,” Rita answers. “Sometimes the ideas start on the drawing board, other times they model straight onto a bust with fabric remnants we have lying around. But we are
very concerned with shaped knit. We have a principle to never cut in knitted fabric! We would rather sit a bit longer by the knitting machine and finish each stitch off. It is so much nicer when you avoid ugly seams on the inside of garments. The advantage of knit is that there is less need of an incision, because it fits itself to the body.” Is it easy to maintain woollen clothing? “Wool breathes in the summer and warms in the winter,” Anne explains. “Anyway, you do not need to wash wool as often. Hang it to air outside instead! Anyway, we make sure that the arms are wide so that they are not clingy. It gives better freedom of movement and automatic heat regulation.
THE FEAR OF THE COMMERCIAL They tell me that they hardly ever advertise, and think that their exhibitions have generated enough media attention. Even though they have survived for 13 years, and they are doing increasingly better, they have never considered moving the production abroad to increase production and lower costs. “No — do you know what — we are dead scared of becoming too commercial,” the ladies exclaim jointly and pull terrified faces. “Originally, we even blankly refused to move any part of the production out at all. But then we were given a commission by the Scientific Museum here in Trondheim to make a collection for their museum shop and we jumped at the opportunity. Then we realised that we could not knit it all by ourselves and contacted Selbu Husflid to check if they could produce it for us — and they could. When it got started, it was actually fun, so we have continued to produce with them. That line is more toned-down, cheaper and available in shops. Many ask why we do not move our production to the East and participate in a number of fairs, but that is something we fear enormously. It would become so large that we would have no time for the Unika collection. We would also have to deliver more regular collections, several times a year, and we do not want that. We create at our speed and live on it. If it were money driving us, we would be doing something else, because we are not exactly rational in what we do.” CHEWING ON NEW POSSIBILITIES But even though they enjoy the small scale, they have plans to be more visible outside of Trondheim. “This autumn we had an exhibition at the Litterature House in Oslo, and we plan to repeat it this year,”says Anne. “Yes, because we do have something to do in Oslo, as well?” asks Rita carefully and looks questioningly at Anne. “Yes, I would absolutely think so,” she says soothingly. “We are a bit uncertain about promotion, you see. But we always consider where and how we should present ourselves and spend time on the planning. The gut feeling always gets the last word. New York is a city we have been looking at. When we were there last autumn, we had a cool premise, and the feedback on our clothes was great, so we do have that in the back of our minds.” “We will also participate at the local Art &
Crafts market in Berkåk,” says Rita. “This will be the tenth year, or so in a row. It is organised every autumn and contains a fantastic myriad of hand-crafted art. Last year there were 20,000 visitors and 150 artists present. We always organise a large catwalk which covers the whole area like a snail. It is an important market, because children can come and see how wool is spun and how the blacksmith forges. Those good, old-fashioned practices that are no longer passed-on down the generations.” Will you continue with just wool, or are you planning to expand your repertory? “We have been playing with the idea of using linen too. But we have to chew it over a bit more first. Maybe it will be a kind of menopause project for us?” Anne laughs, pulling Rita into the chorus and throwing herself backwards in the chair. Something tells me that a possible menopause is a long way off. There is no sign that this two-headed, energy duo is running out of steam.✪
ist Knit rWr Wa mers! WRIST WARMERS The pattern is for a knitting macine. Measurement: approximately 18 cm long. Yarn: Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk: Hifa Kamgarn 14,2: 50 g in black and 50 g in lime. Fin Knitting: Threader Dial set 1.1. Tension: 10 cm = 40 sts Read through the whole pattern before you start. Cast on 42 x 42 stitches using waste yarn. Black yarn: Knit 8 rows. Lime yarn: Knit 10 rows with the contrast yarn for the tucks. Pick up the stitches from the first row with the contrast colour and make a pleat. Continue with 4 rows of black, before you start a new tuck in the contrast colour. Here is the order of tucks and spaces in between. From start: Tuck (= t) k 10, space (= sp) k 4, t
k8, sp k 4, t k8, sp k 4, t k 8, sp k 4, t k 8, sp k 4, t k 8, sp k 6, t k 8, sp k 6, t k 8, sp k 6, t k 8, sp k 8, t k 8, sp k 12, t k 10, sp k 18, t k 10, sp k 24, t k 10, sp k 30, t k 12, pick up last tuck and cast off. At the same time: Dec at the outer edges every 6. row to 37 x 37 sts. Then inc every 10. row until there are 42 x 42 sts. Steam and join.
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Back to basics
Boy meets girl... Join the “Back to basic” 1950s style and knit warm garments for him and her. DESIGN: BERIT RAMSLAND & ann-kristin r. knardal PHOTOs: NILS SKOGSTRØM STYLING: TINE SOLHEIM
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he focus is very much on the 1950s with several great designers — Dior and Prada among them. Maybe it has to do the need for authenticity — that you know where it comes from and what it contains, just as homemade food and handmade knits made with love and good energy? If you remember the ’50s, you will at least recognise elements and colour combinations from that time. For those of a younger generation this is a cool new trend. 48
43 HOODED CARDIGAN WITH PATTERN BORDERS It should either be large and comfy, or rather flattering and tight. You can make this cardigan both ways — knit it in a size that fits the look. Note that the rib is knitted in a different colour than used inside the borders.
44 BATWING JACKET These oversized jackets are super trendy with many designers. The extra wide rib at the bottom is recognisable from the ’80s. The sleeves should be extra long. There is a zipper at the front. The tie for the hood is a cord and has feathers attached at the ends.
45 KNITTED PANTS How about knitting warm and cosy pants? With a waistband to encase a cord with feathers attached at the ends?
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46 GRANDDAD VEST This vest should be fitted to be cool and used together with narrow, tight trousers. It is designed so that you look broad shouldered and the wooden toggles reinforce the old fashioned look.
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47 HOODIE This sweater is knitted in a soft and airy yarn. It has a round neck, where stitches are picked up to make a hood. Stretchy chamois trousers are the latest fashion!
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48 GREY HOODIE AND ACCESSORIES Basic and usable for most occasions, this light grey hooded cardigan has a toggle closure attached quite high on the front. The hoodie has a cord with long pom-poms attached. Hat, long socks and mittens are knitted in the same fairisle pattern. The hat has a modern shape with warming ear flaps.
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49 — 52 SCARF Combine several colours and knit a scarf in stocking stitch that rolls-up like this.
CLOTHES: Simona Art of Fashion
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Interiors
THE creative team: May Britt Bjella Zamori, Synnøve Langfeldt , Katarina Segerbrand, Bente Andersen Kari Henriksen hopland & Tine Solheim Styling: Vibeke Mæle PotoS: Charlotte Spetalen Location: Studio Slettvold, Skøyen Vi takker Blomsteratmosfære for blomsterdekorasjonene
Knit a Livingroom The fashion of knitting has struck not only on the clothes front! Blankets, cushions and bolsters, pouffe, lampshades, storm-lanterns and trays; crochet or knitted, are super trendy interior fashion.
53 jumpSUIT The rib on the sleeve, the edging around fronts and the hood is knitted using double beaded and sequined yarn. The hood is pointed at the end.
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Knit the hottest one -piece this autumn!
54, 55 Blanket & round MAT A small, handsome, rough blanket knitted in a chunky yarn on 7 mm needles, large cables, rib along the long end and the short end in fringes. Knitted bobbles are the latest on the knitting front. The reverse of the cushion is knitted in stocking stitch. The four-leaf clover cushion is crocheted in a chunky tweed-like yarn and its reverse is in double crochet/US single crochet while the cushion itself is made of mixed linen fabric. The mole coloured pouffe is knitted in moss/US seed stitch, while the top & bottom is double crochet through back loop/US single crochet through back loop. The cool, round mat in a cafe latte colour. The fabric yarn used here is made of wide fabric strips, which makes the mat thick and solid. Pillows can all be seen on page 65.
Style tips!
Mix techniques such as knitting and crocheting together for fabric cushions.
Trapilho TRAPILHO “fabric yarn” is a superb re-use concept. It is recycled excess fabric from the textile industry in Portugal which is used for crocheting, knitting and weaving. The fabrics come from textile plants which produce clothes mainly in jersey, and who send excess materials for further treatment into yarn balls.
“The fabric yarn” is in varying thicknesses, cut in strips; notice the varying thickness of the crocheted and knitted items. The yarn is available in many different colours and patterns, and from several suppliers — never completely alike in colour or pattern — as this surplus is from different clothes manufacturers.
jumpSUIT It was quite an experiment making the popular one-piece suit in a knitted yarn, but it worked! The suit has to be in a soft yarn which does not scratch. We have used alpaca. The edge and the ribs are knitted in double yarn made of alpaca and a luxurious yarn with beads and sequins. The zip at the front is attached by hand or using a sewing machine. The encased wide elastic is lower on the hips and holds the suit in place.
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57 TURQUOISE trackSUIT Warm, cosy tracksuit in soft alpaca for cool winter nights! The jacket has a peaked hood, rib on the arms, pockets, at the bottom and around the closure. It is knitted in double alpaca and beaded yarn. The zipper is set in by hand. The scarf is knitted in the same beaded yarn but with a single strand. The trousers have a wide encased elastic at the waist and a decorative pocket on one side at the back. 59 SCARF This is knitted with a wonderful, new yarn. You probably can find it in several different fibers such as mohair, silk, etc., with beads and sequins (the same as in the edges on the jumpsuit). It becomes a piece of jewelry. The scarf is knitted in garter stitch with a row of double wraps around the needle which are let go on the next row, to gain large airy stitches.
Tips!
ll kinds of There are a es, bowls vas shapes like u can easily o y s and tray for. knit covers
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! s p i t e Styl lot more Make it a d decon a feminine bons of b ri h rate wit satin.
60, 61 Toffee P0UFFe AND GLASS BOwL A crochet bolster like this one can also be used in bed when you read to support your back! It becomes extra romantic in an open crochet pattern together with wide satin ribbons. The beige lattice cushion has a a double folded ribbed hem all around and a solid backside. The beige cushion at the back, is very exclusive, while the front is knitted with the same beaded yarn as the jumpsuit. The toffee pouffe is knitted in Trapilho fabric yarn and filled with 3 large duvets. Use remains to crochet a cover for a glass bowl. Bolsters and cushion can be seen on page 65.
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! s p i t e l Sty en of both lin Mixtures arn are in! y fabric and
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CHUNKY CABLES There are many easy, coarse cables to see — preferably with an unfinished look, without too many edges and fancy finish. Here is the same coarse cable used throughout on the pouffe, lampshade and on the oblong cushion. The rectangular shawl is knitted in a typically ethnic pattern, the scalloped edge is knitted separately but onto the shawl at the end. The yarn is an incredibly soft quality mix of cashmere and alpaca. 64, 65 Tea coZy & tealights Cosy, small details on a table; knit them in colours to fit your interior and use scented candles.
66 VASE coZy A smart way of using the remaining Trapilho yarn when you have knitted a large pouffe - this glasware is from Ikea. Test different crochet techniques, this is ordinary treble crochet/US double crochet with a chain stitch inbetween. 67 PONCHO This is knitted in this autumn’s fashionable chunky and melange yarn on large needles. In this shape it is practical, you can move your arms at the same time as it warms down your back and your legs. Along the poncho edges and at the neck, are crocheted pompom’s for decoration.
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68 BEIGE PoUFFe This pouffe is crocheted in double crochet/US single crochet. Notice from which side you crochet the edge at the top, so that the stitches makes a stripe detail. The best way you join the fabric yarn together is by unrolling it and sewing the ends together. Use the remnants to crochet covers for the storm-lanterns. The brown cushion in the chair has twists knitted over 2 stitches, made sideways with long fringes on each side. 69 WINE BOX COVER Made for the girls really, but on-trend with the motto of “homemade is well made!� 70 WRAP AROUND The skirt is knitted in the same pattern as the rectangular shawl in cashmere/alpaca. It is meant to be used with wool tights as a comfy skirt at home or at the cottage on cold days.
Tips!
to store a e a pouffe e closure s u n a c u Yo a ti y et. Make guest duv hich you can easil w e id s in the close. open and
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Tips!
is the A day-bed interior e th latest on t. fron
71 SHAWL A knitted, rectangular shawl in Estonian lace, with a water lilly pattern to throw around your shoulders for comfort. It is knitted in a fairly new, exclusive yarn quality of cashmere/alpaca. The pointed edge is knitted separately but joined at the same time.
CUSHIONS & BOLSTER Here is an assorted selection of cushions: crochet, knit and fabric in different yarn qualities, together with a bolster knitted in ridges. Crochet cushions in rugged patterns of chunky yarns are cool but make sure you line the cushion itself with a fine, fitting fabric because it will be visible through the large holes. At the front you can see a rugged cushion, crocheted in the round using double yarn. Then a white circular cushion, a brown fur yarn cushion and a white one, we have named marigold cushion. The rectangular dark brown cushion at the back is a cabled cushion edged with twists on each side. See them all on page 65.
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72 BROWN PONCHO The asymmetrical poncho is knitted in a soft Merino yarn and identical on both sides. The edges are lined with seed stitch while the fringes are only attached at the bottom diagonal line, and a fake fur ribbon, that can be bought by the meter, is attached around the neckline. 73 WRIST WARMERS These are made in the same yarn and same pattern as the rectangular shawl and wrap around skirt.
Tips!
re arn ends a Traphilo-y a needle h joined wit ad. and thre
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75 GLASS LIGHTS Similar to vase covers, make cosies for the glass lights in different sizes. It is important that you choose an open crochet pattern with treble crochet to let the light through.
76 CHAIRS It was not that difficult to crack the code for these knitted chair covers, even though it is a bit of work knitting the large surfaces even in chunky yarns. We chose a cotton/acrylic yarn so that the cover would not pill with use, and it would seem to hold its shape pretty well. These are dining room chairs from Ikea, with a cream cover we dyed dark brown to avoid the cream colour showing through. There are splits by its chair leg, edged with seed stich. 77 DRESS/TUNIC This is knitted using a hand painted silk/merino yarn giving different shades in the garment. The dress is A-shaped with different cables and a honeycomb pattern in the sides. The bodice has a yoke, the short sleeves and the neckline have a rib with twists.
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CUSHIONS The light blue round cushion has a crochet pattern on the front secured on a fitted cream coloured fabric cushion. The rectangular long cushion is knitted in a chunky, mixed yarn using large needles. The white circle cushion is crocheted on both sides, the back consists of treble crochet. The cushion inside is covered by linen fabric, but you can crochet a cover over a finished cushion. The navy blue cushion is knitted with bobbles in a chunky yarn, while the edge all around is made using fur yarn. The cushion in garter using a blue melange yarn creating blue shades and has crocheted corkscrews on each side. 78 HOODED cardigan This cosy jacket is knitted in a slightly chunky, soft merino yarn with drape. The hood is quite large. The big cables are knitted with purl stitches in each side, with a rib at the bottom and at the pocket edges and the sleeves have twists. The wide edged collar around is laid double and the belt is knitted double.
Stiltips!
Tips!
Big cables on a ba ground of stoc ckki stitch looks gr ng eat!
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2 Brown bobble cushion 1
3 Clover-leaf cushion 4 Lattice cushion
Blue bobble cushion
6 Sequined cushion
7 Rectangular cushion
Pillow-fight! 5
Marigold cushion
Here you can study how all the cushPaljettpute ions are made; knitted or crocheted. Knit them in other colour combinations to fit your interior....
8 Fur cushion
9 Crochet cushion 10 Twist cushion 14
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Crochet bolster
11 Cabled cushion
12 Ridged bolster
Round crochet cushion
15 Circle cushion
16 Ridged cushion mbym.no 2011
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PHoto: Petter Berg
Hot stuff
Happy Colour is an incredibly creative yarn and hobby shop in the department store PUB in Stockholm. Pop in if you are there! www.happycolor.se. Snella Petronella has an online web-shop. Ribbons and stash — haberdashery from Hjelmtvedt is sold in most yarn and sewing shops around Norway. Perlehuset has not only a shop in Oslo but also a well-stocked online shop. Mauds Garn has an online shop with a lot of exciting items. For other substitutions, visit www.mbymmagazine.com.
ts; Beginner kni s Chunky yarn in ! multi colours
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1. Ideas: Handmade bags and necklaces from Happy Color. 2. Ribbon from Hjelmtvedt. 3. Multicolour chunky yarn from Colinette Yarns. 4. Buttons from Snella & Petronella. 5. Wooden from Hjelmtvedt. 6. Covered buttons with moviestars and motifs from “Alice in Wonderland” - Perlehuset. 7. White rosette ribbons, “diamond facet” ribbon and ribbon with small cream rosettes from Hjelmtvedt. 8. Ideas: Handmade “Love” bracelets from Happy Color. 9. All these assorted buttons are from Perlehuset. 10. Measuring tape and sweet scissors from Stoff & Stil. 11. Spiral buttons, the brown mix and the brown with the orange ring are from Hjelmtvedt. 12. The mix shawl pins and the square buttons are from Hjelmtvedt. 13. The oval, large buttons are from Hjelmtvedt. 14. All these multi coloured buttons are from Mauds Garn. 66
Baby-stitches
Eeny, meeny, miny, moe... WHICH ONE SHOULD I KNIT NEXT? All these cute garments are knitted in a lovely, soft and ecological cotton yarn from Rowan - a comfortable knitting yarn that is easy to machine wash. Design & PHotoS: Rowan
Turn over! 67
Small? Me? Far from it. I am precisely big enough. I fill myself completely, both along and across; from top to bottom. Are you larger than yourself, possibly? Inger Hagerup
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79 LULU The body is knitted in garter stitch, while the stripey sleeves are knitted in stocking stitch. There is an opening at the back. The neck-band and the sleeve edges are crocheted. Flowers are also crocheted, and attached at the end.
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80 BONNIE A short, straight, little jacket in lace. Can be worn with most clothes. Can look delicate over a dress with square print but is also cool with jeans. It is edged with seed stitch.
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FRANCIS THE TURKEY A loveable, funny, huggable and soft stuffed toy. Can be stuffed with popcorn maize, plastic granules or carded wool. Would you like to knit the turkey Francis? Get the pattern at www.mbymmagazine.com
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81 DEXTER A cool, small boy’s sweater in five soft natural colours. Lovely in other colour combinations such as jeans blue, navy & white, light & dark grey.
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Mousehouse house?” r ou y ve a h ou y o d e er “Little mouse, wh our house?” y ve a h ou y o d e er h w e, “Little mous ps to the te s r fou d n a t, gh ri e Three steps to th teps back s ix s d n a rd a w for s p left, five ste wards!” in the ceiling h ig h d ive l o h w e s ou Said the m UNknown
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Little Miss Muffet sat on a tuffet eating her curds and whey. Along came a spider and sat down beside her. And frightened Miss Muffet away! UNkNown
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82 BELLE Sweater in different techniques: lace; open cable at the bottom; and crochet edges around sleeves and neck. It can worn over a long sleeved singlet, or be knitted with long sleeves.
ROSIE THE PIG The pig can be knit in other colour combinations, it is stuffed with popcorn, plastic granules or carded wool through the nose. Would you like to knit the pig Rosie? Get the pattern at www.mbymmagazine.com
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Monday’s child is fair of face e, Tuesday’s child is full of grac oe, Wednesday’s child is full of w go, Thursday’s child has far to giving, Friday’s child is loving and for a Saturday’s child works hard living, the But the child who is born on blithe Sabbath Day Is bonny and and good and gay. UNkNown
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83 MOLLY This adorable lightblue coat has a lace bodice, and a stocking stitch skirt and sleeves. The limecoloured edges are crocheted and the silk ribbon is threaded through the lace. The pockets have a crocheted flower for decoration.
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84 PRINCESS This sweet sweater can be super-cute worn as a tunic with tights or long as a dress. The skirt part is made of cables, while the shoulders have a waffle pattern. The small flowers are embroidered on at the end. Use the photo as a guide.
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85 HARRY Handsome, small gentlemen have handsome, small vests! This vest has a creative combination of cables, ribs with stripes and a button with a buttonhole on the shoulder.
This little chick is pink. She goes down to the pond to get a drink. This little chick is white. She dances and plays, oh what a sight. This little chick is green. She is the prettiest chick I’ve ever seen. UNkNown
GORDON, JAMIE & HUGH Small knitted soft toys in ecological cotton can become the favourite “huggie”! Knit several chickens in lovely pastel colours! If you stuff them with carded wool, they become very soft. Would you like to knit the chickens Gordon, Jamie and Hugh? Get the patterns at www.mbymmagazine.com
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86, 87 GRANNY SQUARES COAT & BAG That the 1970’s remnant yarn squares would be fashionable again this autumn, came as a surprise....it is part of the wave of everything that is hand — and home — made and with the increased awareness of recycling. The squares are slightly different than the traditional granny squares with 3 trebles together. Do also make a crochet piece edged with fur yarn that can be attached with velcro on a fitting bag.
Grannysquares Make this autumns’ super trendy, square crocheted jacket with rib edges and a matching bag. Design: Tine Solheim PHotoS: Nils Skogstrøm
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Photo:Frøydis Benestad Hågvar
New talent
Camilla Ulvund • Born 1979 • Norwegian designer educated at: Yarmouth college in England (2 years) and Esmod in Oslo (3 years).Has specialised in knitwear using a knitting machine. Works freelance, at the same time she knits her own clothes collection in her flat at Sinsen in Oslo. • Her style is characterised by nostalgia, romance, maximalism and soft colours. • Has a 5 year old daughter, who is a test model for her childrens clothing.
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New Norwegian designer:
Camilla
Ulvund It was by accident that Camilla Ulvund was led to the knitting machine, and there she has remained. TEXT: FRØYDIS BENESTAD HÅGVAR PHOTOS: Jenny Engvig
You were educated at Esmod (ed: a fashion school), where knitting is only a small part of the curriculum. Yet, you chose to go in that direction, why? – It started when I was making my graduation collection. It was in knit, and was supposed to be produced in China, to give me experience with production abroad. But one month before deadline, they cancelled, and I despaired. Luckily, I received a tips to contact Eli Tønneberg, who is a knitwear icon. I talked with her and said she was the only one who could help me. And, do you know what? She gathered a group of ladies who knitted the whole collection for me. When I came to pay afterwards, Eli grabbed me and said: “ You cannot just pay and walk out. Now, you have to learn everything we have done for you. It is no good being a designer without knowing the handcraft too!” So, I sat down by her knitting machine and started learning, and was bitten by the bug straight away. What did you do after Esmod? – Then I continued doing a 82
course with Eli and developed. At the same time I started knitting my own garments, which I displayed and sold at fairs. At the moment, I live off my freelance commissions. I am, among other things, developing a model for a raglan sweater for the brand Deys. Would you rather work for a company or as self-employed? – At first, I did hope for a permanent position with a company and to work the ladder. But I did want to develop my own brand on the side. Of course, it would have been cool just to be able to run my own company, but it demands capital. – What can you do in knit which cannot be done in other types of fabric/traditional sewing? – It is a totally different way of working. Even though I have five years of pattern construction and fashion design behind me, I do feel that I understand knit a lot better. Nevertheless, I am far from fully trained. The advantage with knit is that you do not have to consider shaping, because it drapes the body in a natural way. It is also easy
to form when it is wet. And then I have realized that knit can be so many different things. – What personal projects do you have ahead? – I am considering knitting my own version of a party outfit for my daughter aged 5. Maybe it can be interesting for others, too? She refuses, namely to wear a national costume so I have been looking at old, traditional patterns for inspiration. But I do want to use more delicate colours than the original bold national costume colours. In addition it should be comfortable to wear! Part of my children clothing design philosophy is that they should allow free movement and that the materials should be natural. I am a strong opponent of acrylic and mad at all the chains for using it so much of the time. They are a fire hazard. Any how it does not cost more to produce clothing in 100 percent wool when they mass produce in China.
I love searching for original items on E-bay and at flea markets. – How would you describe the style of your clothes? – Nostalgic and feminine, with soft colours. When it comes to material, I test different types of yarn all the time. I am very much in love with melange shades and textures. It is rare that I use strong contrast colours in the same garment, but I do challenge myself all the time. The maximalist in me, has finally understood that it does not have to be so complex, that it is possible to make easy commercial shapes in between and rather decorate the garments. So my garments are filled with contrasts: They are often of a commercial shape spiced with wild decorations and gizmos. The advantage of being a maximalist is that you can always tone down and get the best out of two worlds. I love searching for original items at e-bay and flea
markets. There, I find everything from unique, old collars to bride lace from the 1800 century, which I mix into my knitting. Thank goodness that I have a basement shed. It is packed with discoveries I am certain I will use one day. – What are the current trends in knitting? – Knitwear is becoming more and more detailed, especially cables. When it comes to shapes, it varies between fit and over size. Many of the women’s coats have cropped sleeves which are to be combined with long gloves. Otherwise there are a lot of accessories such as bags, scarves and hats, and they are mainly in a solid colour. Men will also receive a wider range of knitwear designs in times ahead. – Do you think that knitwear will continue to grow inside fashion? – It will go up and down, just as anything else. It is obviously a boom just now, since even celebrities in warm countries use it. But in the Nordic countries we should just cling to it, regardless of fashion. We have harsh winters and wrap ourselves and the children in wool, so we might as well use warm knitted clothes that have that little extra. Unfortunately, knitting is a dying tradition. The schools should offer more teaching of the trade so that they can maintain our history before it is too late. – Will you remain in Norway or disappear abroad? – I will definitely stay in Norway because I have a child. Otherwise I might have considered moving abroad. But at the same time: if you are to work within knitwear, what better country than ours? – Is it possible to buy your clothes anywhere? – I do take orders, now and then, but I have to make a proper website for myself. Now, I have even started making knitted lamp shades. There is no limit to what you can make on a knitting machine!
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Bobble knit Knitting techniques with bobbles and relief of different kinds are making their mark on knitwear fashion. Camilla has composed her own twist, here used on
Knit Camill Ulvund’s des a ign! Pattern no. 8 8
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the collar of a jacket and as edges on a tunic. Photo: Charlotte Spetalen
Note the opera-length fingerless gloves.
88 Long cardigan This 3/4 length, stylish coat is knitted in a soft alpacca with a bobble pattern on the shawl collar and at the bottom of the sleeves. The coat is open at the front. If you prefer you can use a shawl pin or a narrow belt. 84
89—91 tunic suit A powder pink tunic suit with bobble pattern used at the bottom of the tunic and the trouser legs. The other edges roll naturally since they have no finish..... bang on trend!
Note thpe.orange make u
Inspired by
DIOR The great fashion designers have a lot of knitwear in their collections, this time we are inspired by
Note the bohemian chic hair style and the fish plait.
Christian Dior. Design: Tine Solheim PHoto: Charlotte Spetalen knitted by: May Britt Bjella Zamori Styling: Vibeke MĂŚle Hair: Ellen Devold
A
fantastic, lovely knitted coat with wide light blue satin ribbons; and a white sweater with a large collar with matching white ribbons appeared in Dior’s last autumn/winter collection. New, cool combinations of oversized knitting and threading in wide ribbons. The temptation became too great and inspired further creative work!
ed, Sixpence in twe on trend!
Notice h ribbons ow the ded and are threa end at t how they he wrist
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92 THE wHite sweater has a wide neck and a large collar in rib. We made the sleeves narrow at the bottom, because that is more practical under a coat during the winter. Try threading the silk ribbons in different ways, we made 3 rows down in herringbone both at the front and at the back, herringbone in the middle of the sleeve and 1 row around the upper arm. The ties will stay in place if you tighten well or you could baste them so that they do not loosen while wearing.
Designers comment: I realized that we had to use a yarn on thick needles and chose Aran from ARTESANO since it is both a soft and light yarn that does not pill much. We had to choose an all over lace pattern so that it is possible to thread the satin ribbon where you want them on the garment. It is important to use double face satin ribbon of good quality with a heavy drape, ours is 40 mm wide. But the lace pattern is lovely on its own so when you tire of the ribbons, you simply remove them.
86 mbym.no 2011
Tips!
ith your own Experiment w . the silk ribbons ith w h personal touc
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we found a suitable handbag at Accessorize and knitted a cover in the same lace pattern. The short sides are knitted in stocking stitch. The edge at the top is crocheted after you have placed the bag inside the cover — in order to crochet the edge above the handles. Glue wide adhesive velcro on the bag around the opening, the side with the hooks will attach to the knitting. The silk ribbons are only thread through one side of the bag, but do experiment with your own personal touch.
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Tips!
in difthe silk ribbons You can thread find your Experiment to ferent ways. tion. preferred solu
94 the Vest has long, open splits in the side, but if you want to you can add pockets as on the coat. We have cut 4 equally long ribbons for both the front and the back, but we started threading them at the shoulder and down the front, then at the back in a herringbone pattern. Test out different ways until you find the pattern you prefer.
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To achieve the hair look: ✪ It is best to have a loose plait because you do need to tease your hair properly at the sides ✪ Curl your hair on heated rollers or with curling tongs.
✪ A good hairspray is a must. FUDGE Skyscraper works well.
✪ Overlap your hair at the back so that you do not have a parting and tease well on the sides.
✪ Use hair-grips if you prefer, so that it will stay upwards and not stick out at the sides. ✪ Fasten the loose plait underneath or at one side. Hold the hairstyle in place with Skyscaper from SALON SAUCHA Fudge.-
Regards, Ellen
95 The slouchy hat is made in the same lace pattern; here we have thread the ribbon above the rib around the hat in a fishtail pattern. . the Tights are knitted in the same 96 pattern as the over-knees with a small rib at the bottom around the ankles. The panty top is knitted in stocking stitch with encased elastic at the waist. 89
97 the coat is knitted in a lace pattern - the silk ribbons can be threaded through where you want them. We cut long ribbons — for both the front and the back — and started threading at the top of the shoulder. Experiment with different options. There are many fabulous solutions. The coat has practical pockets, the rib at the sleeves is folded over to add thickness and the shawl collar is split just above the waist. For a closure, attach large press-snap fasteners. 90
FDoisih Plait tl ✪ Separate
right halve s.
ike this:
the hair in left and
✪ Take a fi nger-thic kness piece on the outer side of th half and p e left lace it ove r on the ri half (in yo ght ur right han d) toward the middle s .
✪ Take a fi nger-thic kness piece on the outer side of th half and p e right lace it ove r on the le half (in yo ft ur left han d) toward middle, co s the ntinue like this until plait is fin the ished.
✪ The less hair you cross ove the finer th r, e fish-plait becomes.
Here you can see how the silk ribbons are threaded; on each side they are in herringbone while two rows at the middle back are threaded straight down. Make a bow with two ribbons or with half a bow out of one ribbon. Cut the ribbon diagonally.
mbym.no 2011
91
Tips!
n wrap sew your ow You can easily ge is ed ed ffl . The ru dress like this the d an s le rc ci in sewn together d at tie with a belt dress is closed the waist.
98 the wrist-warmers are knitted in the same lace pattern and the silk ribbons are threaded herringone from the top, down and end with a silk bow.
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99 the over-knees are knitted in a lace pattern using thin alpaca. To make them stay up we bought a pair of stay ups and cut off the adhesive elastic at the top and attached it under the edge — the over knees will stay on your thighs without tightening too much.
For those who do not require so much colour, Dior has transparent, magnificent Chrystal Gloss in four nuances. Two with, and two without shimmer. The crystal consistency has added polymer gel which gives an instant pumping effect, moisture and a long lasting result.
up tips ake-Dior: Mfrom
✪ Play with colours! The rules are: there are no rules! Have fun. Mixing is allowed! (pink nails and orange lips or vice-versa. ✪ Two mascaras: Combine two mascaras for a top result. For example, use Diorshow Iconic first to make long separate lashes and Diorshow 360 on top to “add that little extra” volume and bend!
Diorskin Nude Glow sunpowder contains four colours, each capture the light. The product is applied with a brush to emphasize the contours of your face.
A fashionista ’must-have’ is Dior Vernis nail varnish. Try a strong orange with a glossy orange top coat, then you will get a guaranteed extraordinary result.
Since Dior have chosen to focus on lips and nails in this look, the eye shadow is in softer colours. They come in two elegant, separate pairs, one light and one slightly darker nuance.
When it comes to the skin, only one thing matters: glow, glow and glow! Nude Glow is a liquid foundation. It mixes into the skin immediately and gives a light cover.
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Tips!
The bag will in crease in size depending on how much you have in it! Add a stiff bottom so that it stands on its own.
94 white leather handbag: Designer Kjersti Willet lives in London and has made this incredible nappa handbag in four identical parts. You punch the edges with eyelet punchpliers and crochet the parts together using a waxed linen string. The openings for the ribbons are cut using a scalpel. It is available to buy as a kit.
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Black Glam silver h t wi i e h t Dot lace details!
1 2
PHoto: Petter Berg
and
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3
5 7 8
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9 10
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As seen in our original Norwegian edition, these were just too beautiful to omit. Please visit www.mbymmagazine.com for possible substitutions and sources. 1. Ribbon with rosettes and “diamonds�,Tine Solheim. 2. Passementerie button and tassel from Perlehuset, charcoal rosette from Hjelmtvedt. 3. Organza ruched trim, Hjelmtvedt. 4. Purple organza ribbon, selected satin ribbons and silver bead trim from Hjelmtvedt. 5. Lace trims in cream and white, and silver ric rac from Hjelmtvedt. 6. Swarovski trim, black lace trim and silver stretch trim with sequins from Hjelmtvedt. They also stock roses in different colours and sizes. 7. Black velvet rose, Perlehuset. 8. Silver bullet cord end, comes with different patterns, Hjelmtvedt. 9. Ribbon with leather rosettes, ribbon with zipper turn and rabbit fur ribbon with wooden beads, Tine Solheim. 10. Large, oval wood buttons, Hjemltvedt. The square black ribbons are from Perlehuset. 11. Black, frog closures from Perlehuset. 95
Accessories 100 GREY SCARF Fun scarf crocheted using Ilusi贸n, a yarn made of 60% mohair super kid, 25% nylon and 15% extra fine merino.
Warm around the neck Lovely and fun scarves in exciting yarn qualities... And how about a matching handbag? DESIGN & PhOTOs: KATIA
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101 Red sCarf The effect yarn Big Bang consists of a long row of pom-poms. .
102 Loop scarf The scarf is made by shaping loops using the large pom-poms in the yarn.
103, 104 Scarf & handbag Matching scarf and handbag in Boreal, a chenille equivalent yarn made of a mixture of extra fine merino and microfibre.
105 Multicoloured scarf With stocking stitch using 19 mm/US 35 you can make this scarf in an evening!
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Designer Knits
&
Arne Carlos
Arne & Carlos have designed cool knitted fashions for young boys especially for MbyM. They have played with bold patterns, bright colours and ridges, garments that can be used in Spring as well as Autumn and Winter. PHoto: Charlotte Spetalen Location: Bølgen & Moi, Briskeby
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106, 107 Sweater & Hat This design is inspired by knit design of the ’1980s with clear, large Fairisle pattern borders and clean, fresh primary colours using Freestyle, a fairly thick yarn. The sweater has raglan shaping and single colour ribs. The long hat which should hang at the back has a large pom-pom in all the yarn colours and a black, rib folded edge. 108 cowl Knit a large cowl in the same pattern as the sweater. It looks cool and is practical to use.
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109 Cardigan in houndstooth check A cool, urban knitted cardigan using large needles and Freestyle that can be used at school, work and about the city. It has set-in sleeves and a ribbed shawl collar. Sleeves borders and bottom borders end in a few rows using an orange contrast colour.
110—112 Hat, scarf & mittens The hat and the scarf are knitted in the same thick yarn as the cardigan while the mittens are made in a thinner quality yarn.
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113 ridged sweater This sweater is a basic beginner knit. You only need to know to knit ribs, the rest of the sweater is knitted in ridges in a so-called classic silhouette. In other words, the body is straight at the sides and the sleeves are dropped.
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114 hat The Snowboard boys have started a hat fashion filled with fantasy. Why don’t you knit one!
115, 116 scarf & cardigan Cool cardigan to wear with jeans. After knitting the body, you pick up stitches for the hood and knit it on. Finally, you pick up stitches for the all-round band, including the finished hood, and work in a rib. Large pockets are practical as well as a large, warm scarf.
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MbyM invites you to enter our
Inspiration Norway Sweepstakes Win a fabulous “fiber & fjord” trip to Norway . . . and take a deserving Local Yarn Shop owner with you!
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MbyM’s goal is to inspire you, our readers — e Nor
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)
When you enter “Inspiration: Norway” you may choose to submit the name of your most inspiring LYS owner.
You love hanging out at your LYS, so why not take your shop owner with you on this fabulous trip. Add the name of your most inspiring shop owner to your entry. With a few words, a video or simply a nod, let us know why she/he is so inspiring. We’ll make sure to let everyone else know, too.
One lucky winner, chosen at random, will receive:
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Norway Sponsors — Yarn & Accessories: Aurora Yarns, Be Sweet Yarns, Elka Designs, Knitting Fever, Rowan, Schachenmayr, Skacel Collection, inc. Media: Prime Media Publishing Travel: Grandview Travel, Columbus OH
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*All entries must be submitted by midnight September 31, 2013. Winner will be chosen at random, and notified no later than October 15, 2013. Entrants are not required to nominate a LYS owner. If the winner has identified a shop owner, the shop owner will also receive two tickets for the same trip.
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through breath-taking, high fashion photography of original designs to knit or crochet, sew, bead or embellish.
Trend: heather tweed Here are rugged sweaters in wide and large cables — preferably in contrast to a body of reverse stocking stitch. Grey and blue shades, but also burgundy are suggested colours for the autumn.
iceberg
Trend Report trend: polar explorer Cool leather jacket with knitted sleeves and ribs in a chunky mixed yarn. Iceberg also has several nice sweater models that can be inspirational.
trend: urban city The designer obviously has a thing for small patterned knits for both men and women, this sweater is suitable for both leisure and inside a tweed jacket at work.
k l a w t a Ctrends
The great designers have rugged and trendy collections with chunky, handknitted sweaters and cardigans for the boys too. tExT: Tine Solheim PHOTO: gv-PRESS
T
here seem to be no limits to how chunky and large the cables can be, but it is cool. Melange yarn, effect
yarn in bouclĂŠ, ethnic inspired small pat-
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sweaters have replaced the everlasting fleece hoodies with print. The colours are natural, slate grey but also burgundy can be traced to several designers.
missioni
emporio armani
terned sweaters, even soft and fluffy mohair
emporio armani
trend: mixed chunky knits Here is how to knit a double waisted cardigan in melange yarn. It is probably smart to line it for extra warmth and cosiness in the winter.
Trend: home knitted
missioni
gucci
Gucci is showing a burgundy hand knitted sweater in fluffy mohair yarn for the boys. Why not?
Gucci
trend: dr. zhivago A long Fisherman’s Ribbed scarf is may be a good idea for a Christmas present? Notice the rugged double-breasted winter coat in fake fur.
trend: mega-cables This is probably the largest cable on a sweater we have ever seen! It is probably not cabled as usual but the front is knitted in two parts and folded as you knit? Super cool sweater — maybe worth trying out?
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Moschino
From the catwalk
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Ruffled Jacket Trend:
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Romantic & feminine Moschino presented this feminine jacket with ruffles and asymmetrical zipped pockets, last winter. The body itself is knitted in Fisherman’s Rib using 5 mm/US 8 needles, while the ruffles are knitted in ribs using respectively 6 mm/US 10, 7 mm/US 10.75 and 8 mm/US 11. It has a zipper at the front and in both pockets. If you find it difficult to attach a zipper into knitted jackets, choose a different closure instead. Make a buttonband at the front by picking up stitches, and knit in rib just as the ruffles using 4.5 mm/US 7 needles.
cooL
Knit your own designer wardrobe!
designerstitches Are you tempted by the stunning knitted and crocheted garments the great designers present on the catwalk? Then you should either have a well filled purse — or knit similar models yourself! PHotos & artwork: Miroe Production: Petra Knoblauch translation: May Britt Bjella Zamori & linda Marveng
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Dolce gabana 108
Retro Skirt
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Trend: apres-ski Dolce Gabbana had this skirt in their famous Norwegian inspired winter collection. The skirt will probably enter fashion history as a classic with an eternal life! The giant motif is our well known lily motif — twist the yarn on the wrong side to avoid long yarn span. The wide elastic at the waist is encased.
Trend: winter hibernation The Greek-born English designer, Sophia Kokosalaki is up-and-coming on the International fashion arena. This cosy cabled poncho is right on target for a brisk autumn and a cold winter. The garment is knitted using a 5.5 mm/US 9 separately up to above the low armholes, then joined and decreased on each side of the cables. The hood makes this poncho cool!
sophia kokosalaki
Cable Poncho
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prada
Classic Cable Sweater
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Trend: 1950’s look Several designers have joined the “back to basic” wave, to be more precise the famous “New Look” style by Christian Dior at the beginning of the 1950’s. The skirts should be under the knees, the outfit decent and dressed, with essential belts at the waist. The sweater is cool for nearly any use!
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Big Jacket
akris
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Trend: mega-knit Knitwear on mega needles has been a hot trend for a couple of years now. This bold, yellow jacket is knitted using triple yarn and 12 mm/ US 17, so you can nearly make this in an evening! Designer Albert Kriemle of the Swiss company Akris had this cool jacket in his winter collection. Narrow leather belts are in, or how about plaiting yarn and making a thick plaited belt with tassels on?
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Sweater Dress
Trend: 1970’s You cannot avoid Chanel when it comes to knitwear fashion. Karl Lagerfeldt has revelled in many different yarn qualities and mixes, preferably combined with lace details and feathers. Such sweater dresses were typical of the 1970’s. You can make one in different yarns and colourways using 7 mm/US 10.75. You could even make a necklace with feathers and wear numerous bangles with it.
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Chanel
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creative team: May Britt Bjella Zamori, Grete Holter, AnneGrete Gangmark & Tine Solheim Styling: Tine Solheim PHotoS: Nils Skogstrøm Location: Ringnes suiten, Grand Hotel, OSLO
123 BATHMAT This mat is crocheted in Trapilho fabric-yarn which comes in different thicknesses depending on what this ball was recovered from. As you can see, this is made of one of the thicker qualities so that the mat becomes thick, solid and heavy and will stay in place. You could, if you prefer buy a plastic base/ surface mat to keep under to avoid it sliding on the bathroom tiles.
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Bath de-lux This is nothing but feminine luxury! Here you will find crochet patterns for the bathroom, a cool Trapilho crochet mat and some fabulous cosy garments. 113
Bits & bobs
Tips!
You can also add beads and crystal stones.
124 SLIPPERS We had fun crocheting onto flip flops. It is smart to crochet around the plastic straps first, so that you have something to attach the flowers onto. Concentrate the decoration at the centre front and on the outer side of the foot, not too much on the inside.
125 BED JACKET A creative fantasy which can be used for different occasions. Make it in many colours; fitting as a shawl over a colourful summer dress, in black alpaca it will be perfect over a black party outfit (you can even attach beads and crystal stones), or it might even work as a shawl over a strapless wedding dress?
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126 SCARF Treat yourself to a bit of luxury, and knit a scarf in this fantastic silk yarn with small “diamonds� and sequins. It is like a piece of jewelry. This is knitted in seed stitch. The yarn is available in many beautiful colours, in different yarn qualities and thicknesses.
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127 DRESS It is knitted in the same Estonian lace pattern as the shawl in the interior series on page 54, in an alpaca-cotton mixture. Choose a different colour if you prefer and wear it as a tunic over tights. You can also thread a cord under the bust and gather the dress. If you do not want the tulip sleeves, you could for instance knit ordinary 3/4 sleeves?
Tips!
Use your remnants in different weights and shades of white.
128 TISSUE BOX We have crocheted around a square box, but you could equally easily double crochet around a rectangular box. Arrange the crocheted flower decoration diagonally on the box, to add interest.
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130 BASKETS These are crocheted in Trapilho fabric-yarn. You can crochet these baskets in all kind of sizes and shapes to hold bits and bobs.
131 TOILET SEAT COVER This is a holdover from the 1970’s, which we just had to test and will definitely not suit a masculine toilet! The cover has a 5 cm edge inside the lid, with an elastic thread through.
Tips!
See the interior article on page 55 for more information on the Trapilho fabric-yarn.
129 CLOTHES-HANGER This will awaken old memories of visiting grandmother. You can crochet around whatever clothes hangers you might have, and decorate with the crocheted flowers. There is double crochet around the rod as well but you could choose just to wind yarn around it instead.
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Accessories 132 POWDER-PINK CLUTCH This is calf-skin in a delicate colour, lined with cream coloured suede. The clutch is crocheted together with a waxed linen thread and has a magnetic closure under the flap. Facetted Swarovski crystals are glued on at the end.
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From the
Handbagworkshop Designer Kjersti Willett has created these gorgeous handbags and clutches which you can make yourself. Even if you have never done it before, it’s possible to make a handbag in an evening! DESIGN: KJERSTI WILLETT PHOTO: NILS SKOGSTRØM STYLING: TINE SOLHEIM Materials: C. Hemsen, Skinnlåven & Perlehuset Clothes & sHoes: Simona, Zig Zag & Freudian Kicks
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Burgundy clutch The material is nappa, while the clutch is lined with suede which you can buy in a fitting colour. The clutch is crocheted together with black waxed linen thread. The closure is under the decoration; a strap with black facetted glass elements is sewn on.
Brown clutch
The skin is antiq ue goat. The clu tch is lined with suede and crocheted toge ther with a natural waxed linen thread. A magnetic clasp closes the clutch under the flap. It is decorated with diffe rent beads and glass leaves.
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134 BLACK CLUTCH The material is black nappa with a suede lining. Note the design details such as the crocheted contrast edges in white and adhesive white pearls in different shapes and sizes. It has a magnetic closure under the flap.
Burgundy shopper 135
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This spacious shopper is in nappa, lined with suede. It is crocheted together with a redbrown waxed linen thread. The handles are specially made by Skinnl책ven using 4 belt buckles, attached to the bag itself with rivets. The closure comes in a set, where each part is screwed onto the shopper.
136 GOATSKIN HANDBAG The brown leather is antique goat. The bag is lined with suede which comes in many different colours, so that you can chose a bright contrast colour on the inside if you prefer. The lid is made of goatskin. The flap can hang loosely or be closed with the aid of a magnetic clasp. Each part is punched all around and crocheted together with waxed linen thread. The handle is a plaited leather string attached using large silver coloured rings.
Designer Kjersti Willet who lives in London, has made these stunning clutches and bags in nappa leather — which you can make yourself.
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Schoolkids
137 FAIRISLE HOODIE Super-cool retro jacket that is so chunky that there is no need for a bobble jacket on top. Accented with a wide rib knitted button band at the front and a large cool hood. Maybe you want to line it with a wind stopper? 122
New kids in town Even kids this age can be quite fashion conscious, so our ambitions have been to create cool and colourful home knitted garments in good materials that the children want to use. Design: Bente Presterud Røvik PHoto: Nils Skogstrøm
138, 139 FAIRISLE COAT & MUFF Colourful coat in different pattern borders for school and parties. Note the fun crocheted loops on the collar, edges and coupling that looks like dyed and curled sheepskin. The coat has a zipper closure. The crocheted belt is attached at the sides so it does not fall off. It is smart to line the coat with a warm and wind proof lining so it can be worn even on cold days.
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Mix & match with motifs! You can combine several stenciled motifs, or use on its own. If you want to use only part of one motif, you can use masking tape to cover parts not to be painted.
140 GUITAR SWEATER The sweater is knitted with the wrong side out. Notice, the sewing together with the visible seams for a rougher look. Make cool prints with different stencils.
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141 WRAP-OVER TOP Ballerina inspired jacket. Have you noticed that knitwear design is a bit simpler for the time being, and prefers cool details such as reverse stocking stitch and seams showing. The belt is super long so that it can be worn several times around the waist. The crown decoration is crochet with beads attached. 142, 143 SKIRT & TULLE PETTICOAT The knitted skirt in an A-shape, and has crocheted ruffles in different colours. The crochet roses with beads in the middle are attached randomly. You can buy petticoats in many shops nowadays, or you could simply sew in netting and attach two different colours. 144 LEGGINGS Warm, knitted tights can be used for so many outfits, these have attractive retro borders in a silvery yarn at the bottom.
GRISEN ROSIE Grisen kan strikkes i mange andre fargekombinasjoner, den fylles med popcornmais, plastgranulat eller kardet ull gjennom snuten.
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147 RED COLLEGE JACKET Not that it is a goal in itself, but this hoodie does not look homemade. It could equally well have a hot brand label at the neck! There are stencilled prints both at the front and at the back with attached beads to make it a bit more girly. The fake fur fabric around the hood makes it look cool!
HAT & SCARF This set with cables can be knitted for both boys and girls. For a girl you make it as shown in the picture; a tassel with long yarn threads, for a boy you either skip the tassel or make a smaller pom-pom.
Silk Screen Penciled Painting This type of penciled painting is almost like silk screen printing: The stencil is a large, finely meshed sheet. The mesh is covered, but where the motif will appear, it is open, so that the paint penetrates the mesh (a paint stripper is essential).
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Bente’s tips!
BLUE COLLEGE HOODIE The coolest kid in class with this super hoodie! Prints at the front and at the back, pockets to hang in, fake fur edge on the hood, and a zipper closure at the front.
New on knitwear!
This type of stencilled painting is first and foremost used for t-shirts and garments out of a more finely stitched material. We have not tested it on knitted garments before, but I am very happy with the result! But do take care, not to pull too hard because the motif will be displaced due to the film on top of the garment. If you stencil paint on top of chunky knitwear it is an advantage if the garment is not too tight fitting.
Not completely satisfied?
Latest fashion:
Bukseseler hengende utenfor buksa.
The painting does not bleed a lot, but if you are unlucky enough to get paint a place you do not want it, you can wash it away with water. To adjust small details use a moist Q-tip. If the motif has not received enough paint, you can add more. Wait until the first layer is dust dry, and stencil paint again (do take care to place the stencil the exact same place as the first time), or use a thin brush to add paint to the paint weak spots.
Adhesive Stencils The stencils have an adhesive back, so that they will stick to the base layer. But when I was painting these garments, they did not stick particularly well. Hence I used masking tape along the edge so it would not move while I painted.
Wash/care It is advisable to wash the garment before you stencil paint. The paint needs to dry for 24 hours before it can be fixed with an iron. After further drying the painting will withstand a 40 centigrade hand wash, but not a drier.
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Accessories
148 Three girlfriends in identical hats, but in different colours. We have used Aran from Artesano, and a chunky merino/ alpaca yarn that doesn’t scratch and knits on a 7 mm/US 10.75. Make pom poms in the yarn, in fake fur or like shown here in raccoon. If you attach a large snap fastener on the pom pom, you can change and vary with different colours and materials. Do also knit a large ribbed cowl, just as the beige one in the middle, it is both warm and cool!
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149 This cowl is knitted with shortened rows and has two triple cables around the shoulders. Around the edge at the bottom there is seed stitch, while at the top there is a folded rib.
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ubby nt colours. ats with large, ch m-poms in differe po , rn ya l and the scarf pom-poms in The hats, the cow n oo cc ra ft yarn which fake fur or are knitted in a so e th e ak M y. The hat can be are super trend does not scratch. e ad sh nt You can re ffe di w a in different ays. pom-pom in ed us it ch ta at , and l times, or than the hat itself ld the edge severa fo so — r ne ste fa a slouchy hat. with a large snap you can use it as of ty ili ib ss po e that you have th changing
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1. The powder pink hat is very smart with a dark brown pom pom but also nice with a delicate white one. 2. Brown pom-pom is well suited to the jeans blue hat, here used hanging at the back, as the fashion is among snow boarders. 3. Medium grey can be used with both black, white and, like here, with a grey melange pom pom. 4-5. (150) Long scarves in 2 knit & purl should be knitted so long that you can wear it a couple of times around your neck and have long ends where you can attach yarn or fur pom-poms. Use 4 pom-poms for each short end, or tighten at the bottom and attach one pom-pom in each end. 6. This fabulous caffe latte colour is stunning with all brown, beige or white shades in the pom-pom.
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151 A Poncho is often an unpractical garment with small movements for the sleeves. This, however, is superpractical with the sleeve solution. It even has a hole for the thumb, so it warms further down your hands as well. Knit the poncho using 5.5 mm/ US 9; where 18 stitches equals 10 cm.
Latte & machiato Have you considered how many different brown shades that exist in nature and in our coffee cups? Let it inspire you! Text: Tine Solheim
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PHoto: Produsentene
152, 153 BOLERO & LEGGINGS Short jackets are in, well suited over tunics and dresses as they will keep you warm where they should. Chunky, melange yarn is also trendy. There are many types in the yarn shops or hold together 2 or 3 thinner yarns and make your own shade. Knit chunky leggings to wear with the outfit.
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154, 155 SHRUG & WRISTWARMERS This large cowl, knitted in chunky yarn using 7 mm/US 10.75, also works as a hood. Chunky wrist warmers are both warm and cool accessories.
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Tips!
The button fashion from the 1980’s is back at full speed. Decorate your garments with large buttons.
156, 157 CROPPED JACKET & WRISTWARMERS This rib knitted capelet is easy to make for new knitters, as long as you can knit a rib. Knit it using a soft wool yarn, and 7 mm/US 10.75; where 16 stitches equals 10 cm. The long wrist warmers have a hole for the thumb and a decorative button.
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Tips!
Use what you can find: large, funky buttons, toggles or what about large snap fasteners?
158, 159 MELANGE JACKET & HAT This yarn is both melange and slubby, a fashionable effect. The jacket can obviously also be knitted in other, solid yarns, because it is an enjoyable stitch pattern which creates a nice texture. These large, slouchy hats have come to stay for a few years more! 134
160 THREE-QUARTER LENGTH JACKET You see a lot of the bobble patterns from the great designers at present, as well as doublebreasted knitted jackets. This jacket has a wide, decorative crochet edge which makes it more dressy. Maybe it will be party wear in black with some cool lacquer buttons?
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161 SPORTS JACKET New on the cable front. The stitches inside the cable are knitted through the back loop against the contrast of reverse stocking stitch, giving the jacket a more distinct look. If you find it difficult to attach a zipper, you could knit a button band instead and attach toggles. The narrow leather belt is a hot fashion detail.
Tips!
How about knitting pockets? Just like knitting the thumb of a mitten: Knit in a contrast colour where the pocket should be placed, and then knit the inner pocket and ribbed edge at the end.
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162 LONG COAT This coat is divine! Note that the cables are knitted on a purl background. The garments appear slimming and the cables stand out more. The coat has no closure. Use a shawl pin or a narrow leather belt. You can also make pockets. Read the tips on the previous page. The coat is knitted using 8 mm/US 11; where 11 stitches equals 10 cm.
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We make MbyM EDITOR: Åse Egeland E-Mail: aase.egeland@egmonthm.no
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CREATIVE EDITOR: Tine Solheim E-Mail: post@tine.solheim.no Art Director: Maria Smith Nygård E-Mail: maria.nygard@egmonthm.no Repro technicians: Ann-Karin Dølvik E-Mail: ann-karin.dolvik@ egmonthm.no Translation to English: Linda Marveng Fredrikka Payne
Fall – Number 2
MELANGE: Melange garments with fake fur or fur yarn.
customer service: Kari Bachke E-Mail: kari.bachke@egmonthm.no product manager: Lise Burud Bullen E-Mail: lise.bullen@egmonthm.no marketing consultant: Sherry Mulne E-Mail: sherry@yarnsandhow.com Design ConCept: Elin Vaaland, Maria Smith Nygård Prod. Coordinator: Ove Lie E-Mail: ove.lie@egmonthm.no EDITOR-IN-ChiEf/Director: Kjetil Opaas E-Mail: kjetil.opaas@egmonthm.no development editor: Ivar Moe E-Mail: ivar.moe@egmonthm.no
SUPERTREND! Brigh red and wine red even for the boys. Still a lot of cables aran patterns.
WEB editor: Camilla LaHart E-Mail: camilla.lahart@egmonthm.no Publisher: Egmont Hjemmet Mortensen AS Office: Gullhaugveien 1 Post address: 0441 Oslo Switchboard: +47 22 58 50 00 E-mail: mbym@egmonthm.no Tel Advertising.: +47 22 58 55 00 Print: Sörmlands Grafiska Adress: Högmossevägen 7, 641 82 Katrineholm, Sverige Tel: + 46 0150-75 000 E-mail: info@sormlandsgrafiska.se
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EYE CATCHER! Strong, bright colours and patterns both in fabrics and kniwear.
INSPIRED BY THE 50s Knee lengh pencil skirts with houndstooth pattern and organza blouses.
Straight from the catwalk to you!