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LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL HIGGINS KENYA'S TEA INDUSTRY HOW MATCHA DO YOU KNOW PETAL POWER COMFORT FOOD
w e r C w e r B #
Editor: Shabnam Weber THAC President
Assistant Editor: Adi Baker, THAC Communication & Programs Coordinator
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Erica Baillie is the Founder of Plan de Vida and is a certified TAC Tea Sommelier® Professional. One day when reading a book she came across a term - plan de vida (your life purpose). Her plan de vida led her to leave her job in the financial sector to pursue a career in the tea industry.
Kristina Inman is a Professor of Food & Beverage at Niagara College, and both a CAPS Sommelier and a certified TAC Tea Sommelier® Professional. She writes a monthly column in three Niagara-based newspapers, and is published in various magazines. Although travel is her guilty pleasure, she is happiest when tasting her way around the region and playing outside with her two young children.
Tina McDonald is the Program Director at the Academy of Tea and a certified TAC Tea Sommelier® Professional. Loving tea since she was a
little
girl,
starting
with
garden
parties
drinking
tea
out
of
tiny
ceramic cups with her great-grandmother in Kent, England. Since then, she has been tenaciously tea-focused, poring over yard sales, flea markets, and auction houses for tea-related accouterments – all for a beautiful cup of tea!
Jem
McDowall
is
the
Vice-President
(Trading)
at
Universal
Commodities (Tea) Trading Inc. After a Bachelors in Marketing, Jem joined Lipton from university. First in UK then Asia and Africa and back to UK, he has played key roles in supply chain, procurement and R&D. Jem has lived in Ceylon and Malawi and worked in the diverse consumer markets of Morocco, Kenya and Kazakhstan and others. A distant descendant of Robert Fortune, tea is in his blood! He now lives and works in New York.
Noah van der Laan is a Trading Assistand and Lab Manager at Van Rees North America. Before joining the Tea Industry he worked as a journalist for Spacing Magazine.
In this Issue
An Interview with Michael Higgins
Letter from the President Petal Power
The Legend of Shennong
Comfort:
Kenya's Tea Industry
Campfire Macaroni & Cheese Tea Brined Roast Chicken
Manila's Rising Sun
How Matcha Do You Know?
Berry Matcha Fruit Cobbler Earl Grey Bread Pudding
Shabnam Weber THAC President
FINDING CALM I would be lying if I said this issue was an easy one to put together - it was not. We outlined the issue months ago and have been working on the content when times were different. To continue with the issue without recognising the world we find ourselves in would have been thoughtless, at the very least. So we rejigged and rewrote and reformatted and I hope we've struck the right tone for you - a balance of tea, and comfort, calm and perhaps a slight distraction.
m o r f
e th
t n e d i s e r p
As we all try to adjust to this new world, we are finding ourselves in suspended animation - not quite where we were and not quite where we will be. And for each of us it has taken on a different form. For some it's the worry of family and loved ones, for others it's financial pain. This much I know is true, for all of us, it's an incessant feeling of helplessness. The words: Keep Calm and Carry On were coined by the British government on a motivational poster as they prepared for WWII. The words were meant to serve as a morale booster as the country prepared for much pain. We are not at the brink of a world war and our struggles are not comparable, but I think the words and the sentiment ring true in our current world. Find the things that provide you with comfort, hold onto those that mean the most in your life...and know that it's okay to be overwhelmed as long as you come back to a place of calm.
AN INTERVIEW WITH
Michael Higgins
organization of the foodservice and hospitality industry, the Golden Pencil from the Food Industry Association of Canada, the Successors Award for Canadian Business, a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Retail Council of Canada and The Order of Canada.
He has been serving on the Tea & Herbal Association of Canada's Board of Directors for a number of years, and has been the Chairperson since 2018.
Michael Higgins is the Co-Chairman of Mother Parker's Tea & Coffee Inc., one of the largest
What's your first memory involving tea?
coffee and tea manufacturers in North America. Michael, and his brother and Co-Chairman Paul Higgins, are the third generation to steer Mother Parkers Tea & Coffee to growth and expansion. He has held a number of sales and marketing roles in the company and has personally led the relationships with many of North America’s largest grocery and restaurant chains.
Many of my earliest and fondest memories involve tea, in particular the ritual of having a cup of tea with my mom each day after school from a very young age. This was a special time to talk about the day at school and listen to my mother’s words of wisdom over a delicious milky cup of tea.
By the time I was 12 years old, I
was working at Mother Parkers during the summer months doing odd jobs and cleaning
Michael is a recipient of the We Care Hall of Fame Award from the Friends of We Care
the warehouse. Knowing that I would enjoy a delicious cup of tea on my break in the employee break room made the work go by a bit quicker!
What does a typical work day consist of for you? Now that my role is Co-Chairman of the Board
office services, gas and convenience channels.
What are you seeing in the market that excites you for tea?
of Mother Parkers, my work days involve oversight and governance of the Company, but
Over the last 30 years, tea has been gaining a
we have a strong and talented management
reputation as being a health drink. The growth
team leading the day to day work. For most of
in varieties of black tea and herbals during this
my career, I held various sales roles and in
time has been outstanding. The industry has a
sales, the work day is never the same from one
huge following in the 15-30 year-old age group.
day to the next!
Mother Parkers’ RealCup® single-serve format
I travelled a great deal in both
Canada and the USA to meet with existing
for Keurig-type brewers has brought
customers and try to bring in new customers.
convenience to the in-home tea consumer. They
This meant that most of my nights were spent
can now brew a quality cup of tea in 30
entertaining customers and, in those days,
seconds and experience the flavour and body
that’s when relationships were built and
that traditional steeped tea and herbals
business deals were done.
deliver.
How much tea do you drink in a day? Three cups a day in the afternoon. My favourites are black tea and mint tea – hot and clear.
How do you take your tea? Clear
What's one thing you wish everyone would know about Mother Parkers Tea & Coffee? That Mother Parkers has a long and rich history that few other companies can claim! This has been a family owned and operated business for 108 years and the fourth generation of the Higgins family is currently working in the business. There are a number of reports that say only 10-15% of family-owned companies make it to the third generation and then only 3-5% make it to the fourth!
We are very proud of what we’ve accomplished through four generations to become one of North America’s leading suppliers of
tea and coffee to customers in
foodservice, retail, on-line retail,
If you could drink tea with anyone - living or dead - who would it be and what tea would you serve?
Morocco, New Zealand, Egypt, Poland, and Japan rounding out the Top 10 countries in terms of consumption. This is truly a global list of cultures, ethnicities, religions and customs -
Winston Churchill. I would serve Darjeeling, and
all united by tea! Canada has a reputation for
who knows, but I suspect Winston might even
consuming high quantities of very high quality
add a little gin to give it a kick.
black tea, which contains antioxidants that are known to provide a host of health benefits such
If you weren't in tea, what would you be doing? I love interacting with people, which has helped
as flavonoids for heart and vessel health.
What is the most interesting and unique experience you've had in your tea career?
my career in sales. I would definitely want to stay working in sales in some way, perhaps for a
I would have to say touring tea estates around
different type of product or industry. I’ve often
the world. This opened my eyes to so much
thought it would be fun to sell private jets. You
about the tea industry and the unique aspects
would certainly meet interesting people and
of the tea harvesting and production process in
travel the world on the company plane!
different origins. I was also fortunate to travel and see first-hand the impact that the tea
What's your favorite fact about tea that surprises people?
industry has on individual lives and families in tea-growing countries. It’s also been a pleasure to meet owners of other family-owned tea
I think it is the truly international reach of tea
companies in North America. I’ve met so many
as a beverage. Aside from water, black tea is
interesting people who are passionate about
one of the most consumed beverages in the
the beverage and they are having fun in the
world. Turkey is the top tea consuming country,
business. That’s a recipe for a great life!
followed by Ireland, the UK, Iran, Russia,
INTERNATIONAL TEA DAY by Shabnam Weber
After water, tea (camellia sinensis) is the most consumed beverage in the world. It's a beverage not only widely consumed but it is also a source of income for millions of people. It is for this reason that the United Nations General Assembly voted to officially make May 21st International Tea Day. "The Day will promote and foster collective actions to implement activities in favour of the sustainable production and consumption of tea and raise awareness of its importance in fighting hunger and poverty."
beverage that is consumed in so many different ways by so many different people and yet there is a common thread for all - we use tea to connect us.
For me, tea is the great connector of us all. It's a
To each of them...I RAISE MY CUP!
Celebrating tea, collectively, on May 21st, is an opportunity to connect us further, not only with the ones we share tea with every day, but also with the ones who bring us our tea. The pluckers and factory workers. The blenders and importers. The packers and sorters. This long line of tea people all dedicated to your cup of tea!
"TO EACH OF THEM... I RAISE MY CUP
TEA SOMMELIER® CERTIFICATION PROGRAM
What is a Tea Sommelier? A trained and knowledgeable tea professional who has successfully completed the Tea and Herbal Association of Canada’s certification examination, as a result, is well versed on all aspects of tea as it affects the consumer. He or she will have a thorough understanding of tea and its history, processing methods and preparation and will be able to interact easily with anyone on the subject of tea and make recommendations based on their needs in an approachable and easy manner.
Where are courses offered? Students can take the program in person through THAC (Toronto), through Cambridget Tea Academy (UK). As well, the courses are available online through the Academy of Tea, in Italian at ProTea Academy and in Spanish at Escuela Mexicana de Té. To begin your journey visit the Tea and Herbal Association of Canada at www.tea.ca or www.teasommelier.com.
petal power by Adi Baker
Looking outside I can see the
enjoying the small and simple
early signals that spring is here -
things in life.
the sunlight is whiter and brighter, the crocuses are
Aside from a cup of tea
breaking ground and what's
accompanied by a warm piece
that... a robin?!
of apple pie with some ice cream on the side, I recall her
This year, spring is going to be a
love for flowers. She wasn't a
lot different than any other year
great gardener, but every
most of us have ever
summer she would have a
experienced. With the
collection of flower planters on
Government of Canada's
her back patio that she would
recommendation that we only
tend to and fuss over. Looking
leave our homes for essential
back with adult eyes, I can see
activities most of the time we
that tending to and admiring
are going to be house bound.
these flowers served as a
While this is depressing (let's be
meditative distraction. For this
honest), we can still bring the
reason, and the fact that it is
revivifying effect of spring into
spring, I thought that the topic
our homes.
for this issue's herbal tea article I would write about flowers.
At this time, the memory of my maternal grandma enters my
When most people think about
mind and reminds me that there
tea they don't often think about
is always a brighter side to
the fact that so many of the
things - even if that means a lot
teas that they enjoy feature
of extra effort to uncover it.
flowers. That delicious tea you
Having lived through the
have when out for Chinese food
uncertainty of the Depression,
is usually jasmine green tea, and
World War II and a chronic
the standard end of day
illness in the last two decades
down tea is chamomile.
of her life, she had a knack for
wind
Cornflowers
Family Name:
Malvaceae
Botanical Name: Hibiscus
sabdariffa
Popular Names: Hibiscus Parts Used:
Petals
Habitat: Native
to North Africa and
Southeast Asia
Uses: Known
for its vibrant red hue it is
commonly added to herbal tea blends to add colour and a tarte taste.
Asteraceae
Botanical Name: Centaurea Popular Names: Parts Used:
cyanus
Cornflower
Petals
Habitat: Europe Uses:
Commonly used in loose leaf tea
blends like Earl Grey colour.
to add a touch of
Hibiscus
Family Name:
Family Name:
Asteraceae
Botanical Name: Matricaria
chamomilla
Parts Used: Buds Habitat: Native
to Europe, India, and
western Asia, Egypt
Uses: Commonly
enjoyed on its own or in
Roses
Popular Names: Chamomile
Chamomile
a soothing herbal blend.
Family Name:
Rosaceae
Botanical Name:
Rosa
Popular Names: Rose Parts Used: Buds Habitat:
& Petals
Global
Uses: Used
in tea and herbal tea blends
to add sweet and floral notes.
THE LEGEND OF SHENNONG by Tina McDonald Certified TAC Tea Sommelier Professional & Academy of Tea Program Director
Picture it. The summer breeze
said to have been born around
gently rustling the tall grass. The
the 28th century BCE. It is also
sounds of horses grazing
said he came into this world
nearby. The quiet murmuring of
with the head of a bull and the
men as they rest quietly.
body of a mortal man. However, more believably Shennong (in
神農
Nearby sits the Emperor of all
Chinese
China, Shennong. After a hard
Husbandman”) was probably just
or “Divine
day’s ride, he sits under the
a man, born to wealth, whose
shade of a tree, gathering his
life did indeed create change in
strength for the next stage of
the world around him.
travel. While his water heats over a small cooking fire, some
It is written that he invented the
leaves blow into the pot. The
cart and plow, he tamed the ox,
resulting scent is pleasing and
and first yoked a horse. His
he is moved to taste the
descendants say Emperor
mixture, finding it to be
Shennong taught his people
agreeable and delicious.
how to clear land with fire, and he is reputed to have
And thus, the legends say, was
established the first stable
tea discovered. We tea folk
agricultural society in China.
certainly love our legends don’t we? Nevertheless, who was this
These are the legends. But what
person we look up to? Who was
are the facts?
the “Father of Tea”? Did Shennong actually exist?
For in truth, Shennong created a catalogue of hundreds of
Shennong was the second of
species of medicinal plants,
the three mythical Emperors (Fu
which ultimately became the
Xi, Shennong, and Huangdi),
basis of herbological studies in
and is
China.
Shennong Artist: Xu Jetian From the book Kínai költészet 18th century
He described the therapeutic powers of
According to Chinese historical record,
numerous medicinal plants and included
c. 1000 BCE, there were already tea
descriptions of many important food
farms in Sichuan and Yunnan. And in the
plants such as the early soybean. No
early Western Han dynasty, tea was
wonder he was willing to try foreign,
used as a vegetable.
unknown plants that fell into pots of boiling water. (Note: despite Tina’s
Xia Zhong's Treatise on Food included
adventurous nature and willingness to
with the statement that "Since Jin
try all kinds of tea, this editor has yet to
dynasty, the people of Wu (now Suzhou
see her drink anything after a foreign
city) cooked tea leaves as food, and
object has landed in it.)
called it tea broth".
He supposedly wrote down much of this
From the beginning of Western Han to
information in the ‘Shennong
Middle Western Han in the early 3rd
bencaojing’ (Divine Husbandsman’s
century CE, tea was used as medicine
Classic of Medicine), where he
and by the end of the 3rd century CE,
categorized the medicines as superior
tea was an imperial beverage.
(nonpoisonous and rejuvenating), medium (having some toxicity based on
By 620 CE, when the Tang dynasty came
the dosage and exerting tonic effects),
to it’s own power, tea had become one
or inferior (poisonous but able quickly
of the seven essentials of daily life.
to reduce fever and cure indigestion). Bringing us to another legend: Lu Yu. Shennong is generally looked upon as the father of Chinese medicine.
His writings - ‘The Classic of Tea’ or ‘Cha Jing’ - confirm that by this time,
But, what about that boiling brew? As
tea was widely consumed as a
well as being a herbologist, Shennong
beverage. He describes how the tea
knew the safety of drinking pre-boiled
plants were grown (cultivation), how the
water. Hence, the summer day, drifting
leaves were gathered (processing), and
leaves, and the beautiful brew leading
how tea should be made (preparation
us to anoint Shennong as the creater of
and consumption). Truly ahead of his
tea in 2737 BCE.
time and at precisely the right time in tea folklore, ledgend, and fact.
Was tea drank (or eaten) before then? Most certainly, as we know that it was
Alas, Lu Yu and his treatise is another
primarily used as medicine. Shennong is
legend for another time.
said to have discovered that in his tireless curiosity, after drinking
In the meantime come, let us gather
potentialy poisonous herbs it was the
together and brew some beautiful
tealeaf that made him feel better.
Chinese tea (Keemun for me please)
However, it was not until the Tang
raising our cups to the Father of Tea,
Dynasty, almost 3000 years later, that
The Divine Farmer, The God of
we see additional information on use
Agriculture – Emperor Shennong.
and cultivation of the plant.
Between those two times we see that tea goes through a myriad of placeholders in Chinese culture.
Whether pursuing a career in the retail or hospitality industry or enhancing your enjoyment of tea, this course provides an introduction on the historical origin of herbs and spices as they are used in tea. This course will provide a general history of herbal remedies throughout the ages with emphasis on how it is used in China as well as in India over thousands of years. Students will be introduced to the basic concepts and philosophies and learn about the common herbs used in each of these practices.
HI-101 is a 4-week online course. Register at www.tea.ca
HI-101 INTRO TO HERBS & I N F U S I O N S Â WWW.TEA.CAÂ
PAGE 7
Tea Will Get Us Through by: Jem McDowall
We’ve been here before: tea got us through it all then, together we will get through this too. Much of the modern, global tea industry was born out of conflict, ruin and failure. The Sri Lankan tea industry arose like a phoenix from the ashes after a devastating coffee blight wiped out an entire crop. Led by the indomitable, and now immortal, James Taylor, the farmers’ livelihoods were reborn after planting out tea to replace the ruined coffee fields. The Indian tea industry initially struggled to establish itself using Chinese tea seeds in Assam. Eventually Darjeeling and Nilgiri, after many trials and failures, were able to establish plants from Chinese seeds. Other, intrepid pioneers came across the indigenous Camellia Sinensis (var. Assamica) which today forms the backbone of the Assam tea industry. Chinese tea survived and prospered, even after their secrets of growing and making tea were stolen in the 19th century and the challenges of their revolutionary years. African tea industries survived and prospered after the turmoil of their struggles for independence. The nascent American tea-drinking culture paused after the Boston Tea Party, and throughout the Revolutionary years, but has since rebounded and never looked back.
Tea has not only been central to, and the cause of, wars but has become a comfort during conflicts too. Entire cultures are built on sharing tea to celebrate friendship; comfort those in need or simply to give us all a few peaceful moments during which we can relax and reflect. Indeed, the engaging nature of taking tea as a social and comforting beverage is reflected in the close and collegial nature of the industry worldwide. Tea has survived droughts, war, revolution, nationalisation, monopolies, export and import restrictions, taxation, smuggling, adulteration and a host of other major and minor hurdles and disasters. Covid19 is yet another obstacle that the tea industry will overcome, and tea will help us overcome it too in our dark hours. No doubt, at this moment and for some time to come, there are many tea people very worried and hurting badly. But they WILL come through and their friends in tea will be there for them, rain or shine. The old tea bush is a hardy and robust thing, and so are the people who work in it. Together, we will overcome this. Keep calm and drink (even more) tea.
kenya's tea industry
by Noah van der Laan
Jambo! welcome to Mombasa, the largest black tea auction center in the world. The East African Trade Association’s weekly sale is brimming with tea. These days, an average auction tops 4 million kilograms of made tea produced in 10 countries in East Africa including Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania; it’s the only auction in the world trading tea from more than one country. With an explosion of East African tea production over the last 20 years, weekly sales figures have grown 300 percent. And Kenya is now the world’s largest exporter and producer of black tea.
Kenya's tea industry is split into two sectors – large scale tea plantations and small scale tea farms. Nationwide there are more than half a million smallholders located across 17 counties.
The Kenya Tea Development Authority (KTDA),
part of the year and again in early to mid-
created following independence, supports
summer.
those smallholder farmers by purchasing their green leaf and processing 60% of all of
Nearly all of the nation’s manufactured tea is
Kenya's tea at 66 factories. That makes the
CTC method (cut-tear-curl) which is used in
KTDA the largest tea producer worldwide. The
tea bag blends. As one of the world leaders in
remaining tea is grown and brought to market
CTC production, Kenya has positioned itself
by large multinational tea or commodities
favorably in the world tea market, particularly
firms, the four largest of which are: Unilever,
in parts of the Middle East and Pakistan, as
James Finlay, Williamson Tea and Eastern
well as in England, Ireland, and Scotland,
Produce.
where Kenya tea adds a punch of quality and strength to any cuppa.
Kenya features a tropical climate with tea gardens situated at high elevations ranging
While production continues to increase year on
from 4,900 to over 8,000 feet. The rich, red
year, the value of tea production has declined
volcanic soil, abundant sunshine and regular
as an oversaturated market has seen
precipitation provide ideal growing conditions,
inundated supply. To counteract that trend,
and tea is produced year round with no
Kenya is working hard to create a national
dormant period thanks to fairly consistent
brand identity to attract more consumers,
weather at the equator. The best teas are harvested during the dry seasons, in the early
reach new markets, and command higher prices.
With a growing interest in specialty teas, the
from drought and famine that had swept the
KTDA has recently begun to diversify into
region-- slowing crop production, driving up
orthodox manufacture at some factories, the
food prices, increasing inflation, and straining
first of which was the Kangaita Tea Estate.
economic growth.
Select clonal tea plants produce an excellent variety of leafy grades made with special
Much of Kenya is semi arid landscape which
machinery imported from India.
will continue to dry up. As it does, farmers will
These teas
have been so successful that plans are
need to seek higher elevations to ensure
underway to expand orthodox lines, now being
sufficient rainfall. But even on Mount Kenya,
manufactured at over 10 KTDA factories as
the second highest mountain in Africa, only 10
well as at private tea plantations.
glaciers remain of the 18 that once covered its peaks.
Within the next 25 years, warming
Further exploits into orthodox manufacture
temperatures could mean that there will no
include the creation of a unique special
longer be any ice on Mount Kenya. The lands
cultivar known as purple tea which has a
surrounding the mountain are important tea
bright and unique hue. Factories are also
growing regions and the dying glaciers are
making various styles of small batch green,
impacting the livelihoods of farmers
white, and oolong teas. Despite the challenges, Kenya tea will Climate Change is an increasing reality in
continue to gain in prominence as a quality
Kenya as weather extremes have become
tea origin. It is a relatively young tea industry
commonplace. In the past few years, torrential
that has much to offer in terms of quality and
rains displaced 260,000 people; the floods
innovation. Asante Sana!
came just as many people were recovering
How matcha do you know? 6 FACTS YOU’RE GETTING WRONG WITH MATCHA
You’ve likely seen this vibrant green beverage just about everywhere: in your new favourite latte, in the latest baked goods and in your morning smoothie. The popularity of this speciality tea is rising as matcha remains one of the top tea imports into Canada. So what exactly is matcha? Matcha is ground tea, where tea leaves are ground into a fine powder after having both the stems and veins removed. Matcha is prepared by adding hot water, and slowly whisking until slightly frothy. However, with all the buzz surrounding this tea, a lot of misinformation exists about matcha. How much do you know yourself?
Matcha is any ground tea: by Erica Baillie Certified TAC Tea Sommelier Professional
Traditionally, matcha is a stone ground Japanese green tea of the highest quality the only type that would be used for the Japanese Tea Ceremony. It is a shade grown tea that has been ground at a very low speed. As there is no 'geographical indicator' on matcha, the word is now used for a wide variety of ground teas and even botanicals. A geographical indicator would prevent anything outside of Japanese stone ground tea to be called Matcha.
Matcha is the healthiest way to consume tea: With matcha, you are consuming and digesting your tea. Whereas with loose leaf tea or tea bags, you infuse and discard your tea leaves. The production of matcha uses higher quality tea leaves. For example, green tea matcha from Japan uses tencha as a base for matcha. Tencha is never exposed to direct sunlight and is shade grown for the last three weeks of harvest. During this period of shade growing, chlorophyll, antioxidants and amino acid levels increase. 2 servings of matcha has 7x the antioxidants of orange juice, 20x that of apple juice AND contains 20g of calcium. Talk about a superfood!
Matcha is a new innovative tea product: The practice of consuming tea ground into a fine powder has been around for thousands of years! Matcha has been around since the Tang Dynasty in China and was introduced as an important social and cultural aspect in Japan later in the 12th Century. Matcha production in Japan and in the various tea producing regions of the world have only improved since its inception.
Matcha did not originate from Japan: Close your eyes and try to imagine matcha. What do you see? Likely you’re conjuring up an image of vibrant green matcha from Japan. While presently Japan does export the most matcha in the world, ground tea originated from China. It was popular in China to compress tea leaves into bricks and break off small pieces to grind into a fine powder to prepare tea. Ground tea was prepared in China with hot water, a whisk and a shallow bowl. Later, this practice gave way to infusing tea leaves directly with water. Tea was introduced to Japan from China through contact with Zen Priests and Buddhist Monks.
The same matcha is used for your beverages and for confectionary items: Matcha has 2 grades: ceremonial and culinary. The term ceremonial matcha comes from the Japanese Matcha Ceremony (chanoyu). Ceremonial matcha is a highquality grade of matcha, known for its vibrant green hue. Matcha beverages (lattes, smoothies, etc) or confectionary items (ice cream, cookies, cake) will use the culinary
grade of matcha. Culinary matcha is used when matcha is being mixed with other ingredients and not consumed on its own. This lesser grade is not as green and generally not as high in quality as ceremonial matcha.
Matcha is only at a higher price point because of its popularity: You may have sought out to purchase a tin of matcha and did a double take at the price point. How can only a small amount come at that cost? Despite its popularity, its star factor has little bearing on the cost. The production of matcha is a time-honoured tradition that requires multiple steps. For example, let’s take a look at the production of green tea matcha from Uji, Japan. Uji’s production of matcha uses only the spring harvest of green tea leaves. Spring harvest is the first harvest of the growing season and is the most nutrient dense. During the last few weeks of harvest, these green tea leaves are shade grown. Once picked, the green tea leaves are de-veined and de-stemmed in preparation of the final step of production, when the green tea leaves are slowly ground into a fine powder. It takes approximately one hour to grind 30g of matcha. The yield of matcha is a lot lower in comparison, as the final product amounts to 10% of the original harvest. It may only take a few minutes to prepare, but matcha is a true reflection of a centuries old tradition originating in China. Matcha went from being slowly whisked by Buddhist Monks to being mass produced on a global scale. It is the healthiest way to consume tea and can be incorporated into many different beverages and recipes, or simply enjoyed on its own.
THE ‘WAY’ OF TEA — AN EMOTIONAL SIDE TO SIPPING by Kristina Inman Certified TAC Tea Sommelier Professional Article printed with the permission of the St. Catherines Standard I had a remarkable experience. Edward Qu,
and travelling and teaching through tea
A student in the winery and viticulture
regions of the world, explained that tea is
technician program at Niagara College took
more than just something one drinks.
my tea knowledge to a new horizon as he
Rather, tea is a way to reconnect.
taught me more about the Chinese way of tea.
So we sat as Edward prepared a beautiful Chinese tea ceremony, complete with the
This concept, "way" of tea, is not found in
gaiwan set and his "tea pet" — a small and
our vocabulary, but the meaning of it is
delicately crafted metal crab, whose
desperately needed here in the West.
presence is there so "the tea brewer never drinks alone." Each tea brewer chose an
The way of tea can be considered the virtue
animal pet, and Edward chose the crab to
of tea which includes the
honour the seaside town of his home in
emotional/spiritual aspects of enjoying tea.
China and also his zodiac sign (which we
Edward, who is a Chinese tea sommelier,
discovered we shared, ironically, right down
has spent more than a decade studying tea
the same birth date).
He explained many beverages such as
steeped, wet leaves to recognize the
wine come to the consumer as 'finished'
texture change and appreciate how the
products. Certainly you can alter the
leaf resembles the hydrated form it used
tasting experience by choice of glassware,
to be.
serving temperature and other practices such as decanting, but overall the wine
Tea is linked closely to art as well as
itself is a complete product once it is in
religion, and there are many poems that
the bottle.
speak to the way of tea. In a beautiful poem from the ninth century titled Seven
Tea, on the other hand, is only a partially
Cups of Tea" by LĂş TĂłng, there lies "the
finished product. The tea master picks the
truth that with each cup the tea changes
leaves, processes and dries them, and then
how you feel. This is both physical and
sells it to market. It is the consumer that
emotional, for he writes, "the first
"The first bowl moistens my lips and throat; the second bowl banishes my loneliness and melancholy." will finish this creative process. The leaves
bowl moistens my lips and throat; the
need to be steeped and many factors will
second bowl banishes my loneliness and
change the outcome; including the
melancholy."
temperature choice of the water, the serving vessel, the amount of steeping
These bowls, or cups, I should mention, are
time and the measurement of leaf to
quite small when sipping tea in China —
water ratio. Indeed, the consumer is part
only enough for one sip or two, the size is
of the art of creating the tea.
intentional. My original perspective was that it allows the taster to appreciate the
And yet the way of tea is far deeper than
scarcity and therefore focus the flavour of
simply tea preparation. Edward explained
the brew but it's because it keeps people
brewing tea is part of completing the life
close together, as one requires a refill
cycle of the tea. The perspective is that
continuously.
when the tea plant is plucked from the bush and processed, it is lifeless
It ties in with the Japanese concept of
afterwards. It is only when the brewer
"Ichigo Iche" (which translates to "one
adds hot water that the tea is brought
time, one meeting"), meaning one cup of
back to life, and in this way it is
tea will never taste the same as the next,
completing the full circle of life. In China it
because even the smallest thing will have
is also often encouraged to touch the
changed (either the tea or the person
sipping). Because the tea offered in the
working, relax and sip coffee or tea, often
Chinese ceremony is continuously
sharing the experience with friends. We
steeping in the gaiwan, your next cup will
just need the reminder to connect back to
be slightly stronger and more infused, but
the emotional appreciation of what we're
then again you will also be different when
eating or drinking.
you take that second sip. So although I teach about beverages on a There are similar spiritual elements to tea
regular basis, and am aware of its ability to
in Japan which relate more to Zen
bring people together, I was truly moved
Buddhism, and other tea cultures have
after meeting Edward. In saying goodbye,
their spiritual connections as well. It just
as I hastily gathered my worksheets for my
seems like here we have lost sense of that.
next class, Edward took a moment to hand
Unlike the purely analytical tasting sheets
me an item wrapped in a floral
I use in class that focus on appearance,
handkerchief.
taste and flavour of the beverage, in China tasting sheets have an additional area
When I opened it I stood in my tracks,
where the taster can add what they feel
words caught my throat as I looked down
and what memories may be awakened.
at the little metal crab in my hand.
Indeed, the more emotional side of tasting
Edward insisted, as we shared a love for
is explored.
tea and also our date of birth, that now this belonged to me. And as my eyes
I don't mean to imply that we are
started to sting I then realized that I forgot
insensitive to this in the West, and surely
how beautiful this emotional side of
there are examples of conscious and
sipping can be, as it instills new memories
emotional/spiritual sipping, such as the
and friendships that can result from a
Scandinavian concept of "fika"— a joyous
simple cup of tea.From now on, this is the
and scheduled break in the day to stop
way for me.
COMFORT by Shabnam Weber
I contemplated for some time what the food theme for this issue should be. I started with my original plan and nothing felt right. As I brainstormed, all roads led back to one word...comfort. I thought about the times we're in at the moment and I thought about what I myself am gravitating towards in my own kitchen. Despite the lighter theme a spring issue tends to take, all I want at the moment is comfort food. And that is what I'm seeing all my friends gravitate to as well. Picture after picture of breads and stews and cakes are being posted on social media. And for that reason, I throw the light meals of spring out the window and replace them with the foods that make us feel safe, happy, secure. Now coming up with what to include was of course my next challenge. So I took a very unscientific poll, and it appears that everyone's comfort food include some form of carbohydrates and cheese. The long list I ended up with had risotto, shepherd's pie, french fries, mashed potatoes, stews and cookies on it. Everyone polled had chili on the list...and most important...everyone I polled had a big smile on their face when they gave me their list. And that, in the end, is what comfort food is all about.
CAMPFIRE MACARONI & CHEESE Everyone agrees on one thing, that macaroni and cheese is the ultimate in comfort foods. For some of you, that may mean breaking open a box. The first time I made real macaroni and cheese for my sister, her response was: but it's not yellow! Take some time with this easy dish and make your own - I promise you won't go back to the box once you do.
What you'll need: 4 1/2 cups elbow macaroni, (or other tubular pasta) 3tsp lapsang souchong tea 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 6 tbsp unsalted butter 2 1/2 tbsp all purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy whipping cream 4 cups sharp cheddar cheese shredded 2 cups Gruyere cheese shredded salt and pepper to taste 1 1/2 cups panko crumbs 4 tbsp butter melted 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese shredded 1/4 tsp smoked paprika (or regular paprika)
What you'll do: Steep tea in 1 cup of boiled water for 10 minutes. Strain tea leaves. Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly grease a large baking dish and set aside. Cook the pasta leaving a bite - do not fully cook. Drain, and place in a large bowl, drizzle pasta with olive oil. Melt butter in a deep saucepan, dutch oven, or stock pot. Whisk in flour over medium heat and continue whisking for about 1 minute until bubbly and golden.Gradually whisk in the tea, milk and heavy cream until nice and smooth. Continue whisking until you see bubbles on the surface and then continue cooking and whisking for another 2
minutes. Whisk in salt and pepper.Add two cups of shredded cheese and whisk until smooth. Add another two cups of shredded cheese and continue whisking until creamy and smooth. Sauce should be nice and thick. Stir in the cooled pasta until combined and pasta is fully coated with the cheese sauce. Pour half of the mac and cheese into the prepared baking dish. Top
Add your own twist! Some of my favourites:
with remaining 2 cups of shredded cheese and then the remaining mac and cheese. In a small bowl, combine panko crumbs, Parmesan cheese, melted butter and paprika. Sprinkle over the top and bake until bubbly and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Serve fresh out of the oven.
lobster bacon blue cheese
TEA BRINED ROAST CHICKEN What is more comforting than the smell of a chicken roasting in the oven? It's easy, it's delicious and it'll provide the most fabulous base for a soup tomorrow! Please skip that pre-roasted chicken in your supermarket!
What you'll need
CHICKEN STOCK Put the leftover carcass of your chicken into a large stock pot. Add vegetables like celery, onion, carrots, parsley - no need to peel. Cover with water and add salt and pepper, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 tsp of pepper. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to bring the stock to barely a simmer. Simmer partially covered at least 4 hours, occasionally skimming off any foam that comes to the surface. Remove the bones and vegetables with a slotted spoon and strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve.
1 cup soy sauce 1/2 cup sliced fresh ginger 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup kosher salt Juice of 2 limes, plus the rinds pierced with a knife 1 onion, quartered 6 tsp strong black tea or 6 teabags
What you'll do If using loose tea, place in cheese cloth and tie close. Combine all ingredients in a large stock pot and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Immerse chicken in mixture and place in fridge for 24 hrs. Remove chicken from brine and pat dry with paper towel. Heat oven to 425C. Place chicken in baking tray on wire rack. Season with salt and pepper inside and outside of chicken. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the fleshiest part of the breast and thigh (do not touch bone) registers 160 to 165 degrees F, approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
LEMON CHICKEN ORZO SOUP The beauty of the roasted chicken you made,
What you'll do:
is that nothing will go to waste! Keep that carcass and make the most delicous stock. I
Steep tea in 1 cup boiled water for 5 minutes.
could have chosen a traditional chicken soup,
Remove tea leaves/bag and set aside. Heat 1
and you still can if you want...but I LOVE
tablespoon olive oil in a large pot over
LEMON...and if I find a recipe that starts with
medium heat. Season chicken thighs with salt
the word 'lemon'...I'm all in!
and pepper, to taste. Add chicken to the pot and cook until golden, about 2-3 minutes.
What you'll need:
Remove from pot, shred and set aside. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pot. Add
4 tsp lemongrass tea or 4 teabags
garlic, leeks, carrots and celery. Cook, stirring
2 tablespoons olive oil,
occasionally, until tender, about 3-4 minutes.
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut
Stir in thyme, tea and chicken stock and bay
into 1-inch chunks
leaves; bring to a boil. Stir in orzo, rosemary
Kosher salt
and chicken; reduce heat and simmer until
freshly ground black pepper
orzo is tender, about 10-12 minutes. Stir in
3 cloves garlic, minced
lemon juice and parsley; season with salt and
1 medium leek, sliced crosswise 1/2-inch thick
pepper, to taste. Garnish with lemon halves.
3 carrots, peeled and diced 2 stalks celery, diced 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 5 cups chicken stock 2 bay leaves 3/4 cup uncooked orzo pasta 1 sprig rosemary Juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
FOOD, LIKE A LOVING TOUCH OR A GLIMPSE OF DIVINE POWER, HAS THAT ABILITY TO COMFORT NORMAL KOLPAS
TOMATO SOUP & GRILLED CHEESE My favourite soup, for as long as I can remember, has been tomato. And I have not outgrown it. It's simple, delicious, and evokes a feeling of safe for me. Top that with a grilled cheese sandwich and I'm a happy woman. There are many variations of a tomato soup, but I have to say that when it comes to comfort...nothing beats a classic. I have of course mixed things up by steeping some tea in, but I think the toasty flavours of a long oxidized oolong are simply a great addition to a classic.
What you'll do Steep tea in 1 cup of broth for 5 minutes. Strain out tea leaves/remove tea bags. In a large heavy bottomed pot, sautee carrots, onions and garlic. Add tomatoes and sugar. Stir well. Add tea, tea infused broth and remaining broth, thyme and bay leaf. Allow to come to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer for 30 minutes. Remove bay leaf and thyme sprigs, puree soup to desired consistency. Add cream and stir well.
What you'll need: 3 tsp loose or 3 teabags long oxidized Oolong 2 carrots, chopped 1 white onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 1/2 tsp sugar 4 cups chicken broth (more to thin out the soup at the end as needed) 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf 1 28-ounce can whole San Marzano tomatoes 1 cup half/half cream (optional)
Grilled Cheese I'm not giving you a recipe for a grilled cheese sandwich, surely I don't need to! Everyone will swear by the best cheese to use, which way to butter the bread...you get the picture! I love mine with sharp cheddar and instead of butter, I smear mayonnaise on the outside of my bread. A tip I once read and have never gone back to butter.
The beauty of a cobbler is that it needs no great baking skills. No pastries to roll out, no icings to properly put on your final product.
What you'll need Filling: 4 cups mixed berries (fresh or frozen) 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon lemon zest Batter: 6 Tablespoons butter 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tbsp Matcha tea 1 cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup milk ground cinnamon
What you'll do Combine fruit in a bowl with sugar and lemon zest, mix well and set aside. Heat oven to 375F. Put butter in a large baking dish or large cast iron pan, in the oven to melt. In a large bowl mix all dry ingredients together. Slowly stir in milk until well combined. Remove dish out of oven once the butter has melted and pour in batter keeping a few spoonfulls behind. Do not mix butter with batter. Sprinkle berries onto the batter and drizzle lightly with remaining batter. Bake in oven until golden brown - 30-45 minutes. Serve warm with custard or ice cream.
Adapt this recipe whichever way you like. It can be made with berries, or apples, fresh, frozen whatever you have on hand...or whatever season it happens to be!
BERRY MATCHA FRUIT COBBLER
EARL GREY BREAD PUDDING And to wrap up the immense carb fest I've taken you through, I leave you with bread pudding. I've chosen to make this with Earl Grey, but you could truly substitute any of your favourite tea flavours here - Chai would be great for example.
Orange Spiced Earl Grey Christmas Cake
What you'll need
4 tsp or 4 teabags Earl Grey tea 1 loaf day-old bread cubed 1" pieces(an egg bread like challah is best) 5 large eggs 1 cup granulated sugar 4 cups whole milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
What you'll do Steep tea in milk on stove and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and allow to cool, steeping tea for at least 15 minutes. Remove tea and set aside. Spray an oven proof baking dish and place cubed bread in. Spread around evenly. Preheat oven to 350F. In a medium mixing bowl, combine eggs, steeped milk, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla. Beat until well mixed. Pour over bread, and lightly push down with a fork until bread is covered and soaking up the egg mixture. Bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes, or until the top springs back when lightly tapped.
WILD HARVESTING: CANADIAN HERBS Northern Canada, even for most Canadians, is remote. Its landscape is dense with large trees, numerous lakes and bountiful foliage high and low. Due to its remoteness, the people who live in the North have been dependent on the wild harvest that is produced by their landscape. The botanicals native to these lands have been part of indigenous people's diets for millennia. Both eaten and steeped these plants are consumed in a variety of ways and in a number of dishes. Wild herbs, are exactly as they sound. They are not farmed but grow on their own in nature. Wild plants are seed propagated and not stem cloned. Their harvest is short and very seasonal. While we will be talking about specific herbs from the North, wild harvesting occurs across Canada and much of the world.
Like the produce you find at the grocery store, these plants are selected for edible parts - leaf, stem, flower or root. The disadvantage to wild harvesting is that it does not necessarily produce the same size harvest as conventional farming. When wild harvesting, there are a number of rules that should be followed, but one of the most important is respecting the plant and harvesting in a way that will not harm or prevent it from growing again. If you are interested in learning how to wild harvest, and don't know anyone who is an expert at it, we suggest checking out your local library or bookstore for books on wild harvesting. Canada is a large and vast country, so we decided to select one region for a few samples of herbs that are native to the region and prized by the indiginous populations whose land they grow on.
Red Clover flower buds used in tea slightly sweet taste
Sweet Grass sweet taste aroma like warm hay
Wild Peppermint leaves used in tea slightly sweet taste and peppery aroma
Do you forage wild herbs for tea? If so, we'd love to hear your story. Contact info@tea.ca