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LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT INTERVIEW WITH STEPHEN TWINING PARTIES MATCHA GRANOLA PARFAIT GETTING BACK ON TRACK WELCOME BACK TEAKI
In this Issue
An Interview with Stephen Twining Wheel of Flavour
Back on Track Decanting Niagara: Tea-ing up a new way to dine
Parties Letter from the President What's in a name: Manila's Rising SunTian Té Tea House An Interview with Welcome Back Teaki Millennia Tea
Shabnam Weber THAC President
Paying Respect: The hands that bring us our tea January is Hot Tea Month, June is Iced Tea Month and it's all preceded on December 15th, with International Tea Day. We have a number of days in the tea industry that we dedicate to the celebration of tea. It made me think though, how often we stop and think about how the tea that is in our cup, the tea we make our business',
m o fr
the tea we dedicate days of celebration to, got to us.
e th
My first visit to a tea garden had me intoxicated
t n e d i s e r p
by my surroundings, the smells and the beauty. But I have to admit that what humbled me the most, were the people in the tea gardens and
factories. The people who are truly responsible
for the cup of tea I hold in my hands every single day.
Imagine a world you are so in tune with that your instincts tell you when the wilting is complete. Imagine a product so a part of your being, the touch and the smell alone speak to you. This is
the world of tea workers all around the globe. They are not students at tea schools and tea universities. They do not call themselves Tea Masters or Tea Sommeliers. And yet their understanding of tea will far exceed any understanding acquired through books and cuppings.
It is this that forces me to take pause in the world of tea. And it is this, I believe, we should celebrate on Hot Tea Month, Iced Tea Month, International Tea Day and every day in between.
So the next cup of tea you brew, remember these weathered hands and warm smiles, for they are the ones who brought you your tea.
Q: What's your first memory involving tea
Q: What does a typical work day consist of for you
I was eight years old, and with my class
I really do not have typical days. I have
mates we were doing a geography
a very varied job that covers having
project on India. The Master knew
good relationships with media
what my father did, and asked him to
companies around the world.
provide some wall charts and
Supporting our sales teams with tea
information on India. Dad being dad,
information, as well as visiting many
of course sent all the requested
retailers and members of the HoReCA
information, plus a good selections of
trade.
teas.
Although I am based in the U.K. I travel
Having finished our studies, the master
extensively.
thought it would be interesting to have
I am also the person in the company
a tea tasting, led by myself.
who has responsibility for the Royal
I clearly remember the reaction of my
Warrant, which again involves many
peers to the array of teas.
varied and interesting things.
Understandably their knowledge of tea
about having a cup of tea. One word
Q: How much tea do you drink in a day
for one drink. So when they saw Green
I am a passionate tea drinker, and
Tea and Darjeeling and tasted Lapsang
enjoy anywhere between 10 to 15 cups
Souchong they were amazed. I
a day. The beauty of tea and herbals
decided then that there was a need for
to me is the wonderful range of
someone to teach the world about
flavours available. So I pick my tea to
great tea, and giving I was born into
match my mood.
would be hearing their parents talking
the Twining family, it was obvious it was going to be me.
STEPHEN TWINING AN INTERVIEW WITH
I think it would be fascinating to have a cup of tea with Thomas Twining, to show him how the tea world has changed since he started the business in 1706.
Q: What's one thing you wish everyone would know about Twinings
I would serve a second flush Assam tea,
proprietor’s attention and you would be
that we call Golden Tipped English
given express service. On the top of
Breakfast, as this would be a totally
the box were three initials that stood
I wish everyone knew and appreciated
new experience to him, as Indian teas
for To Insure Promptness, or T.I.P. This
the skill that our Master Tea Tasters
did not exist when he was alive.
is where this word enters the English
have. Blending tea is all about the
Language.
knowledge or appreciation of their
Q: If you weren't in tea, what would you be doing
Q: How do you take your tea?
skills.
I have absolutely no idea what so ever.
It very much depends on the tea. Big
And frankly it is a complete waste of
black teas like English Breakfast will
time to even think about it!
always have a splash of a lower fat
human senses , and there is very little
Q: What are you seeing in the market that excites you for tea
milk. For delicate Black and for Green
the different teas and herbals available
Q: What's your favourite fact about tea that surprises people
and people's growing willingness to
This is possibly more of a coffee related
I might add a little honey to some of
explore new and different blends. I am
fact, but since Thomas started our
them.
also excited about the fact that people
business in a London coffee house, I am
are keen to learn about tea and
going to shoehorn it in. In the mid to
herbals, and are doing so more and
late 17th Century, men in London met in
more.
coffee house to do business, as they
Q: What is the most interesting and unique experience you've had in your tea career
did not have offices. They would spend
Having a tea party on an oil rig! In the
much of the day in a coffee house and
1990’s we worked with a charity to help
so the speed of service was not that
raise funds for them, and to inspire
important.
people to hold tea parties in different
I think it would be fascinating to have a
However if you were in a hurry for a
places we had the launch “Tea Party”
cup of tea with Thomas Twining, to
cup of coffee, as you entered there
on an oil rig in the North Sea.
show him how the tea world has
was a box with a slot in it. You would
changed since he started the business
put a small coin into the box and the
in 1706.
noise of the falling coin would attract
The ever increasing knowledge about
Q: If you could drink tea with anyone - living or dead - who would it be and what tea would you serve
the
teas I never have anything added. Herbals hot, just as they come, but iced
Tea and Flavour by: Shabnam Weber
1
2
3
ABSORB THE WHEEL
TASTE AND CENTER YOURSELF
FIND YOUR VOICE
The words you can use to describe the flavours of tea are endless as are the many different types of flavour wheels available. Start by absorbing the wheel you've chosen. Most are simply beautiful to look at. That aesthetic is really a great place to start, because the language you choose should be beautiful as well. It should not only describe flavours in pragmatic terms, but also invoke memories and emotions.
That is to say, taste your tea and then find the center of the wheel. Flavour wheels are all designed to start at the middle and work your way outwards. The descriptive at the center will give you the most general terms and the ones further out will narrow down your vocabulary.
“
Flavour wheels are a great aid in developing your vocabulary. They'll provide you with the words that are often stuck at the tip of our tongues. To truly be able to speak about tea however, you must then find your own voice, your vocabulary and your words so that your descriptions are authentic.
I am not interested in immortality but only in tea flavour - Lu Tong
THE SCIENCE BEHIND TASTE Like most of our senses, taste is one we use every day of our lives and yet have very little understanding of. The most common question I will get asked is: how do I get better at tasting. In reality, that is the wrong question. You should be asking: how do I get better at identifying flavour. Understanding the fundamentals is a start.
Flavour = Taste + Aroma Remember that formula when you begin your journey into tasting teas. You cannot identify flavour without one or the other.
”
“
We love the customs, ancestral traditions and fascinating stories that surround the world of tea
�
TIAN TÉ TEA HOUSE
Tian Té was born in 2012 at Lomas de Cocoyoc, Morelos (Mexico), as a store specializing in the sale of pure tea, tea blends and infusions, as well as accessories for preparation. With the success of the tea house, Tian Té began to export its products. They have quickly become known as a tea house that is not only carefully designed, but also pays the highest attention to quality and detail. Each tea is selected, blended and infused following a single philosophy: to serve the perfect cup of tea.
Along with their beautiful shop, Tian Té also operates Escuela Mexicana de Té, offering a wide variety of tea classes, including the THAC Certified Tea Sommelier program in Spanish
THAC JOINS TEA MASTERS CUP by: Shabnam Weber
Tea Masters Cup was launched in 2013 by the Russian Tea and Coffee Producers Federation. In a short amount of time TMC has grown into an ever growing international community representing at least 16 countries - from France to Australia, Belarus to Sri Lanka with more countries joining each year... this year...Canada! We announced in December, that the Tea and Herbal Association of Canada is now the official national body representing TMC in Canada. The event is dynamic, fun and truly inspirational.
WHAT DOES TMC INVOLVE? There are four separate categories you can compete in: tea preparation, tea pairing, tea tasting and tea mixology.
Now that we're on board, we are in the depths of organizing. That means a new website filled with information, guidelines and rules as well as venue and date.
WHAT DO YOU WIN? The winner from each category will be sent to compete in Tea Masters Cup International held once a year. Past locations have been China, Vietnam and Korea.
So... stay tuned for more!
PARTIES by: Shabnam Weber
Throwing a party doesn't come easily to everyone. I walked you through Thanksgiving entertaining in our last issue, so it only seems right to walk you through some easy to put together parties. A party doesn't have to be complicated. Using 'help' is absolutely okay. Of course by 'help' I mean buying some things prepared. The secret to using 'help' though, is adding your own small touches...not making it look like you opened a package. Buy a dip for example, spoon it into a beautiful dish and add a garnish. Be whimsical! Decorate with leaves, branches, flowers and candles. Create a mood by dimming your lights and putting on music. These cold winter months beg for cosiness and warmth. In the next few pages I'm going to give you a few party ideas that you can adapt to any number of guests. I've included themes, drinks and food as well as decorating tips. I promise...it's all simple!
Holiday Brunch A party doesn't have to happen in the evening. Sometimes it's nice to have friends and family over earlier in the day. I find the food to be simpler, the mood to be lighter and sometimes...the exit to be quicker!
Putting together a holiday brunch is truly simple and you can even get away with never turning on the stove. A selection of breads can be simple sliced bread, but include a few different grains. Buy some fancy jams and don't forget some good butter. Create a platter with cold cuts and sliced cheese. Remember that a good brunch is about selection. Choose your favourite teas and lay out a variety for your guests to choose from - labelling these is always a good idea, and that can be simple labels from the dollar store.
"Come quickly! I am tasting the stars..." Dom Perignon
Bubbly Bar Bubbles are good for any time of day as far as I'm concerned! No apologies and no explanations needed!
The last thing you may think to include in the winter is an iced tea, but I say...make an iced tea! A nice strong brew...because that is going onto your Bubbly Bar along with different juices and garnish. When you're thinking of garnish, stick with simple. Replicating the fruit from the juice is a great idea and shows you've been thoughtful.
Matcha Granola Parfait This is where simple truly takes over. The only 'cooking' involved here is preparing the Matcha yoghurt, the rest is simple assembly.
What you'll need: greek yoghurt matcha honey granola
What you'll do: In a bowl, combine one container greek yoghurt with 1/2 tsp matcha and 1 tbsp honey. Mix well. Layer yoghurt and granola in small jars and serve.
I collect small glass yoghurt jars, you'll find them at your grocery store in the yoghurt section. Once I've eaten the content, I rinse and store them for exactly an occiasion like this! This easy recipe looks like a million served in fancy jars.
Earl Grey Scones What you'll need: 3 cups all purpose flour 1/2 cup white sugar 5 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 3/4 cup butter 1 egg beaten 1 cup milk 1 tbs or 3 teabags earl grey tea
What you'll do: Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Lightly grease a baking sheet. Combine tea with milk and bring to a simmer, remove from heat and allow to steep 30 minutes. Strain out tea. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut in butter. Mix the egg and tea infused milk in a small bowl, and stir into flour mixture until moistened. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead briefly. Roll dough out into a 1/2 inch thick round. Cut into 8 wedges, and place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes in the preheated oven, or until golden brown.
Decorating I think the best part of throwing a party is sorting out your decor. You don't have to be elaborate here, but be creative. And if creativity doesn't come easily to you, then look for inspiration. That inspiration can be found all around you retail shops, magazines and websites are great examples. Sites like Pinterest and Instagram have given us a world of creativity in the palm of our hand.
Start with a theme for your party. And when you're thinking of a theme, consider the mood you want to create. An elegant party will require me to pull out linens and fancier glasses; whereas a casual brunch allows for mason jars and a more bohemian feel.
Whatever you do, please don't forget flowers. I know that some people find flowers an extravagance, but they truly add so much to a home. If your budget is tight, work with greenery and foliage and fill in with some blossoms. Tuck in some candles on the table and you've created a lovely vignette without breaking the bank.
Look for easy to make ideas, which Pinterest is truly full of. I love these clear Christmas balls filled with tea!
MUSIC Don't forget music! Remember that like decorating, music is about the mood you want to create for your guests. If you have the time to create a great playlist..do. I like to use music apps, like Spotify, choose a mood from their selection and simply hit shuffle!
CHAR·CU·TE·RIE / SHÄR-ˌKÜ-TƏ-ˈRĒ From French: pork-butcher's shop Middle French: chaircuiterie, from chaircutier pork butcher, from chair cuite cooked meat
COCKTAIL PARTY Tea Mulled Wine I think a good cocktail party is
There truly is no such thing as 'too
about grazing. I like to create a
much' when it comes to
big charcuterie board that really
charcuterie. Go ahead and fill
becomes the star of the table.
every corner. You really shouldn't
Charcuterie is simply a fancy word
be able to see the actual platter at
for cold meats. I add cheese,
all.
olive or cranberry loaf, fresh baguette. It really does matter! The secret to a beautiful charcuterie board is one single word: abundance. Fill that platter use the largest one you have, or for a truly rustic feel, use a food grade wood board.
1 cup Orange Juice 1/3 cup brown sugar 4 cinnamon sticks
6 tsp or 4 bags of your favourite
fancy spreads - fig jam, hot pepper
good bread - rosemary focaccia,
2-750 mL bottles red wine
10 cloves
olives, nuts, dried fruits and some
jelly. And of course...bread. Do get
What you'll need:
MIX THINGS UP! Have you ever tried White Mulled Wine?? Simply replace the red wine in this recipe with white...
spiced tea zest of one lemon 1 orange sliced
What you'll do: Combine all ingredients in a large pot over medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar as mixture warms. When the wine starts to steam and is very hot to touch (about 10-15 minutes), turn off the heat. Don't let it simmer or boil.
Party for Two VALENTINE Put in the effort, even, or rather,
Chai Chocolate Truffles
especially, when it's a party for two! Yes, you can make reservations and land in an overcrowded restaurant. Or you can plan an evening for you and your love at home. Now for the record,
scoop to portion the ganache into What you'll need: 8 ounces 60% chocolate 1/2 cup heavy cream 5 tsp or 3 teabags of your favourite Chai tea
your love includes family and/or friends...because love lands in our lives in all forms! Don't forget that!
cook...and that is okay. Make some Matcha-Parmesan Popcorn (recipe in sip-issue 02), open up a bottle of rosé and put on a movie you're both going to enjoy.
Finely chop the chocolate. Transfer
Heat the cream with tea and steep for 15 minutes. Remove tea and reheat until hot but not boiling, Pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate and set aside for 5 minutes. Whisk the tea infused cream and
Surprise your loved one with homemade chocolate truffles...chai chocolate truffles! I promise you don't have to be a master pastry chef to get this right.
1-ounce portions (about 2 tablespoons each). Roll the balls between gloved hands until smooth and place on a plate. Refrigerate for a few minutes while preparing the coatings.
What you'll do:
the chocolate to a medium bowl. I know that everyone doesn't love to
Use a tablespoon or small cookie
chocolate together until smooth and shiny. Pour the ganache into a shallow pan or baking dish, such as an 8x8inch baking dish. Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.
Coat the truffles. For best results, pour the coatings into small dishes or bowls. Dip and roll the truffles in the coatings. Storing and serving the truffles. These truffles keep best in the refrigerator. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving.
WHAT’S IN A NAME? A conversation with Millennia Tea by: Shabnam Weber
“
We believe in a time of doing more with less. Millennia, by definition, means a period of thousands of years, and a millennia ago, tea was considered medicinal and enjoyed with leaves fresh from the field.
We’re going back to that special place, and giving people the chance to experience tea the way it was enjoyed when it was first discovered, in its most real, raw, natural form with leaves fresh from the field. .
”
Q: What made you start Millennia Tea?
Q: What makes your tea different than any other?
Three years ago, Rory and I didn’t
Our way of making tea is pretty
in January 2018. The highlands that
even drink tea – not really. Then we
much the opposite of the rest of
border Kenya’s Great Rift Valley are
had a health scare in the family.
the world. Instead of drying and
visually stunning, and offer an ideal
We set out to learn everything we
heating tea leaves, we wash and
climate for growing tea. Known
could about tea’s powerful ability
flash freeze them when they’re
primarily for its black teas, in Kenya
to help fight free radicals.
fresh and most nutrient rich. In this
there is a growing group of
way we keep the tea leaves in their
specialty tea farmers who, in
We had no idea different kinds of
most real, raw, natural form and
partnership with the country’s tea
teas all started out the same way –
safeguard the maximum amount of
research institute, are working hard
as fresh Camellia sinensis leaves in
antioxidants. We call this new
to enhance the quality and quantity
a field – and that it was the
category of tea “Fresh-Leaf TEA.”
of premium specialty teas coming
processing after plucking that
Our differences include: (1) leaves
out of the country. I think the purple
determined what the finished tea
washed // food grade tea, (2)
tea cultivar is a big part of that
would be.
product close to its natural state,
momentum. And we’re excited at
(3) antioxidants go up on second
the prospect of our innovation
Rory started reading all kinds of
steeping, (4) no tannic taste, even
doing some good in terms of Kenya
research reports and learning
after hours of steeping, (5) new
being an innovator in producing
about the different polyphenols
ways of serving (e.g. blender tea).
beautiful, premium teas.
and how different kinds of
The big work for us (and the part
processes affect the health
that gets us really excited!) is
properties of the tea.
implanting this new category of tea
Q: Where are you at now as a company?
in the hearts and minds of the
After receiving a small batch of our
There were a couple of big
market, and establishing the
product near Christmas last year to
learnings for us here. The first was
framework for everyone in North
run a market test, we received our
there’s one antioxidant in
America to be able to get it easily.
first meaningful amount of fresh-
particular, called EGCG or
We were really happy to be named
leaf tea in February 2018. Our
Epigallocatechin gallate, that is
Best New Product for Innovation at
fresh-leaf teas are selling at health
really the darling of tea
2017 World Tea Expo.
food retailers, wellness spas and
polyphenols. It’s the one with the
We visited Boaz, Jamila and the tea fields of Nandi Hills for the first time
specialty tea shops in Atlantic
body’s cells from disease. And
Q: Is there a particular origin you prefer dealing with?
EGCG levels are highest in tea
We met our farmer partner Boaz
and Alberta.
leaves in the hours immediately
Katah the first time we attended
We also sell our 100g bags of tea
after they’re picked, and that they
World Tea Expo in 2017. We were
directly to end consumers through
start to drop off with exposure to
still really just a concept stage
our web site www.millenniatea.com
heat, light and air.
company at that point and eager
And we have just begun providing
to learn everything we could about
custom quantities of bulk product
Secondly, we learned that when
the tea industry and make some
to other industries who use tea as
tea was discovered thousands of
contacts. At the time we were
an ingredient in their products such
years ago, it was considered
sourcing leaf from China. Kevin
as Kombucha.
medicinal and enjoyed with leaves
Gascoyne, Camellia Sinensis,
fresh from the field. It was when
suggested we take a look at what
countries started exporting their
the Kenyans were doing with this
tea that they began drying and
new purple tea because of our
fermenting the leaves so they
singular purpose of maximizing
would survive the long journey at
antioxidants and we met Boaz
sea.
literally for five minutes at the close
most potent ability to protect your
of the event. He was intrigued by We went looking for a way to get
what we were doing and wanted to
“fresh tea.” When we couldn’t get
get involved. Boaz and his wife and
it, the idea for Millennia TEA was
partner Jamila have since become
born.
our closest partners and we love them like family.
Canada. We’ve just brought on our first retailers in Southern Ontario
Q: Where are you headed? Fresh-leaf tea is a whole new way of thinking about tea. It’s real, raw tea. We’re in a unique position to be able to tell the story of tea – how it is grown and harvested – simply because of the way we keep our tea leaves in their most natural state. Educating consumers about this new way of enjoying tea – and giving tea a bigger role in people's lives by using the leaves in new ways – is what we’re focused on now. And setting up the supply chain to be able to make fresh-leaf tea available to wellness seekers across North America is what’s motivating our actions and informing our business decisions.
BACK ON TRACK by: Adi Baker
Sure the holidays are over, your bank account is a little worse for wear and you’re giving the side-eye to your favourite jeans that are a little tighter than they used to be. None of this means that while you’re dialing things back, staying in and bringing your lunch to work that you can’t enjoy yourself. Let me help you turn your winter woes around and suggest some fresh ways to bring delight back into your day. I promise you it will be kind to your wallet and tastier than whatever bland and boring lunch you're punishing yourself with. Here are some of the things I will be doing in the new year to help replace the winter blahs with a little fun and enjoyment.
#1 Start the day fresh You can make your weekday mornings a little easier by making sure you have a good breakfast to look forward to. One of the easiest ways to stay on time and head out the door quickly is a smoothie. Matcha Monday Motivation Smoothie What you'll need: 1 cup almond milk 1 cup water 1 cup frozen berries 1/2 ripe frozen banana 1 tbsp almond butter 1 scoop vanilla protein powder 1 tbsp ground flax seed 1 tsp matcha What you'll do: Pour liquids into a blender and add fruit. Blend until combined. Then add the almond butter, flax seed, protein powder and matcha. Blend until combined. Pour into a to go smoothie cup and go.
#2 No sad paper bag lunches You deserve better than a salad with a bit of balsamic vinegar on it. To ensure that your lunch is nourishing and will keep you full for longer make sure to incorporate healthy fats, carbohydrates and fiber. Spanish Rice with Spicy Rasam and Chickpeas What you'll need: 1 Perfect Spoonful of Spicy Rasam Soup Tea (from DAVIDs TEA) 2 cups near-boiling water 1½ tbsp olive oil ½ onion, diced 1 small garlic clove, minced 100 g chorizo 1 cup basmati rice 1 cup cooked chickpeas 2 tsp paprika What you'll do: Brew soup tea in near-boiling water (95°C) for 5 minutes, then strain into a measuring cup (straining is optional – if you want it more spicy, do not strain). In a medium pot over medium heat, add oil and fry rice until lightly golden. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Then add chorizo and sauté until chorizo is cooked through. Add chickpeas and brewed soup tea. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes. *recipe from DAVIDs Tea Blog, 3 Ways to Cook with Soup Teas
#3 The latte factor There is some debate as to the merit of the "Latte Factor" when looking for ways to save on your budget. Whether you are looking for a way to cut back on spending, or just looking for a good pick me up in the afternoon, try making your own tea latte. London Fog What you'll need: 1 Earl Grey teabag 3 tsp vanilla syrup 1/2 cup boiling water 1/2 cup milk What you'll do: While your tea is steeping, warm the milk in the microwave for about 30 seconds. If you warm your milk in a mason jar, screw the lid on top and shake until you produce a good foam. Add the vanilla syrup to the tea and stir. Leaving the teabag in pour the foamy milk on top, Voila!
WELCOME BACK TEAKI
We'd like to introduce you to Teaki, the little tea boy. This little guy was created by the Tea Council of Canada in 1955 and used in a variety of promotion campaigns. From his tea leaf skirt to his hair, this friendly mascot was created to embody tea. During the Council's early years, Teaki cardboard cutouts were sent around to grocery stores to include in their tea promotion displays. He was also used in a number of print ads. We've dusted Teaki off and he's ready for his come-back.
TEA SOMMELIER® CERTIFICATION PROGRAM
What is a Tea Sommelier? A trained and knowledgeable tea professional who has successfully completed the Tea and Herbal Association of Canada’s certification examination, as a result, is well versed on all aspects of tea as it affects the consumer. He or she will have a thorough understanding of tea and its history, processing methods and preparation and will be able to interact easily with anyone on the subject of tea and make recommendations based on their needs in an approachable and easy manner.
Where are courses offered? Students can take the program in person through THAC (Ottawa & Toronto), or at select Canadian colleges. You can take the courses online through the Academy of Tea. The program is also available in Italian at ProTea Academy and in Spanish at Escuela Mexicana de Té. To begin your journey visit the Tea and Herbal Association of Canada at www.tea.ca or www.teasommelier.com.
Whether pursuing a career in the retail or hospitality industry or enhancing your enjoyment of tea, this course provides an introduction on the historical origin of herbs and spices as they are used in tea. This course will provide a general history of herbal remedies throughout the ages with emphasis on how it is used in China as well as in India over thousands of years. Students will be introduced to the basic concepts and philosophies and learn about the common herbs used in each of these practices.
HI-101 is a 4-week online course. Register at www.tea.ca
HI-101 INTRO TO HERBS & I N F U S I O N S Â WWW.TEA.CAÂ
DECANTING NIAGARA: Tea-ing up a new way to dine by:
Kristina
Certified
TEA
I'm about to challenge you with a new way to look at food and beverage pairing. Consider going to a restaurant, ordering a five course tasting menu, and pairing each course not with wine, not with beer, not even with cocktails, but with tea. It may seem like a stretch, but I assure you, it's fabulous.
One of the classes I teach at Niagara College focuses on food matching synergies, mostly focusing on using wine and beer. Both have been married with food for centuries, with more intentional and justified pairings in the past century.
Inman
TAC
I'm going to ask you to take a leap of faith with me.
SOMMELIERÂŽ
What we are not as familiar with here in the West is pairing
Professional
tea and food. I don't simply mean lavender scones and Earl This St.
article
is
Catharines
reprinted Standard
with
permission
from
The
Grey, I'm talking about dishes like smoked salmon, mushroom risotto and that oh-so heavenly cheese platter.
Like all proper pairings, it must be done methodically. Even wine and cheese aren't always natural partners; it's theÂ
right wine with the right cheese that succeeds. Likewise, there are certain teas that will pair well with dishes and others that will fail. Darjeeling with brie? Perfection. Keemun with cheddar? Glorious. Lapsang Souchong is the one to try with blue. Gwen's Teas in St. Catharines is the definitive tea shop in Niagara, and has all the teas you'll need.
Why tea is such a contender is largely due to its properties on the palate. It has an astringent, tannin-like effect that mimics the remnants of a dry red wine.
Black teas specifically are robust, full bodied and mouth drying. This makes an ideal pairing opportunity with protein-rich dishes. As I've written before, tannin strips your mouth of the protein on your palate (your saliva), so your mouth feels dry after sipping. However if you eat a protein like grilled steak or aged cheddar, the tannin will bind to the food instead, and you won't have that drying effect. Why do you think so many black tea drinkers add milk to their tea? Yes, the fat and protein of the milk act the same way, and make the tea taste smoother.
Certain teas also have acidity, varying body weights, natural sweetness levels and have a history with food that predates its cousins in the beverage world. We just see it more commonly as a cooking or baking ingredient, rather than a pairing option.
You may be thinking, this all sounds fine, but why would I drink tea with my dinner instead of a nice glass of wine or beer? Beyond the rationale of "viva la vida," tea has a wider range of temperatures that can be explored. Certain foods like foie gras (pâtÊ) or cheese are better at temperatures that allow them to release their flavour characteristics and textures. Having a sip of hot tea with foie gras is truly divine; the tea slightly melts the foie which allows its flavours to sing. Have you ever been told to hold a piece of chocolate in your mouth to allow it to melt and enhance the tasting experience? Tea provides this, with an amplified effect.
Another reason to consider tea is its correlation to health. It's packed with polyphenols, has significantly lower levels of caffeine than coffee and contains only one ingredient (much to the delight of grocery store label readers everywhere). The other obvious benefit is that it doesn't contain alcohol. A refreshing option, and rules out any domestic dispute on who is going to be the designated driver on a night out.
What I would love to see is more chefs and restaurants in Niagara explore tea in this way. How fantastic would it be to compare flights of tea on your next night out, or try a structured tea tasting at a tea bar with your friends.
And spoiler alert, it's already happening around the world, largely in places that already have a conscious pairing culture. Atera restaurant in New York City pairs its tasting menu with six types of tea, for example. Jeff Ruiz, head of the tea program there, mentions that pairing a specific tea with a specific dish "can unlock a third flavour." With options of additives like dairy, sweetening agents and even glassware, it can be quite fun to explore this dining experience.
Currently tea bars are popping up on the West Coast from Portland to Pasadena, and there's a wider demographic that is taking part. Millennials are having a huge impact on how the tea industry is changing, as their preference for specialty tea (ie. not black or green tea bags) is shifting tea culture. Not only that, but tea can allow any diner to partake in a paired dining experience.
Finally, tea offers an element of surprise. Who would expect to try tea with dinner? Tea can be dry, sweet, bubbly, hot, iced and carry thousands of different flavours. This gives sommeliers and restauranteurs a chance to explore food pairing in a whole new light.
Now let's take it to the next level, Niagara!