Culture Reviews

me, even though I’m generally not a beet gal (sue me!). Our server explained that the process of poaching the beets in vinegar, black pepper and cardamom removes some of the “dirt” taste that typically turns offbeet-haters like me. This is the dish that little beets dream of becoming when they grow up.

Another highlight was the salsify (think parsnip’s cousin who loves alt music) in a rich miso-hazelnut sauce, served with a lovely little potato croquette—it was hearty and balanced and comforting and defied every negative “vegetarian” stereotype.

Despite the painstaking, Michelin-level planning and execution from Carlson and her team, the menu here demands a laidback vibe, and our dinner stretched longer into the evening than we had planned. Like the diners before us, we were caught up in the intimate, thoughtful, easygoing nature of the space, and the food was so good that time felt irrelevant.

Beet It

Burdock and Co’s Red Ace beet tart (far right) with wild rose sabayon is just as delicious as it is beautiful.

The Arbor

3941 Main St.

thearborrestaurant.ca

Can you even read the words togarashi fries and not order them? I can’t. The Acorn’s little sister serves up this spicy dish with kimchi aioli and plenty of green onions. It’s an excellent sidekick to the End of Days burger, which really shines thanks to cherry tomato jam from Vanmag Producer of the Year Klippers and slices of eggplant bacon that are about a hundred times better than they sound. (I’ve never been a follower of the church of eggplant, but this had me thinking of converting.)

Chickpea

4298 Main St. ilovechickpea.ca

Nary a basic dish to be found here: this restaurant has chill vibes but crazy-good food. Chickpea’s Mediterranean comfort food dishes are vibrant, hearty and fresh. The classic falafel, rice bowl-style, is my go-to (garlicky falafel plus fried eggplant equals plant-based satisfaction). Plus, a pitcher of one of their choose-your-own-spirit, no-frills classic cocktails ($29 for a 6-oz booze base) is an affordable way to get a little buzz on. Hey, we can’t have wine pairings with every meal.

Meet on Main

4288 Main St.

eatmeet.ca

Think your favourite bar food, but make it vegan: sweet chili cauliflower wings, fries with cashew-miso gravy and burgers that aim to do everything beef does and more. The burg topped with pickled jalapenos and mac and “cheez” is my pick (and is proof that vegetarian meals can leave you with the same holy-smokes-I’m-full feeling that non-veggie meals can).