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CONTENTS •
In This Issue SPECIAL FEATURES
HORSE HEALTH 10 Strategic Deworming: A Key Tool in Parasite Control Spring is here and it’s time to deworm
Departments
14 The Lowdown on Fat Supplementation Fat is palatable and highly digestible,
9 Letter to the Editor
your horse again… or is it?
and has been shown to provide many benefits to horses.
28 The Canadian Horse: A Treasure for 350 Years This year marks the 350th
anniversary of the introduction of the Canadian horse, and we’re celebrating!
50 8 Secrets to Making the Show Ring Fun Again Try these tips to put the joy back into competing with your horse.
BARNS & PROPERTIES 16 Planning Your Horse’s Run-In Shed Building or installing a run-in shed is
reduces the drag in horse racing
60 Products We Love The Original Mane 'n Tail Shampoo and Conditioner
2 Celebration of Horses Photo Contest 6 Editorial 8 The Hoofbeat 52 Horse Council BC News Livestock Emergency Response Course & 55+ BC Games 56 Canadian Therapeutic Riding Association News A Magical Experience 56-57 Country Homes & Acreages Inside B/Cover To Subscribe
relatively easy but, before you begin, some preparation is needed.
22 Horse Fence Design and Layout Fencing for special areas, common
fencing problems, and sample fence layouts for public and private stables.
54 In the Shadow of Equus Science shows that slipstreaming
June 2015
44 TLC for Barns & Properties 17 maintenance tips to help you
EquiNetwork 58-59 Hitchin’ Post, Classifieds 59 Index to Advertisers 60 Roundup
spruce up your barn and property.
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50
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PHOTO: ©ISTOCK/GDACEY
PHOTO: ROBIN DUNCAN PHOTOGRAPHY
22
PHOTO: ©ISTOCKPHOTO/ROGER BRANCH
HORSE HEALTH
THE LOWDOWN ON
Fat Supplementation
In hot weather, horses with a fat supplemented diet need fewer pounds of feed, resulting in less body heat being produced during the digestive process. 14
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
PHOTO: ©DREAMSTIME/PIMMIMEMOM
DR. STEPHEN DUREN, Ph.D.
Fats and oils are commonly used in horse feeds to increase the calorie content of the feed or to replace the calories supplied by carbohydrates. Fat supplementation has many benefits including providing calories for weight gain, and providing essential fatty acids to improve skin and coat condition. Feeding fat has also been reported to decrease excitability in nervous horses. Vegetable oils (corn oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rice bran oil) are all highly digestible; in fact, they are more than 90 percent digestible by horses. Horses will readily consume many different types of vegetable oil if given the opportunity to adapt slowly to the addition of fat in the diet. Horses will also consume sources of dry fat, such as high fat stabilized rice bran (20 percent fat) and spray dried vegetable oil. The fat contained in these sources is highly digestible, similar to vegetable oil, and the palatability is excellent. The initial goal in supplementing performance horse diets with fat was one of increasing the calorie content of the diet. Horses in training require an increased amount of calories the harder they work. In fact, horses in training may require twice as much energy compared to
left: Horses at work may require up to twice as much energy compared to horses at rest. Adding fat to the diet increases the energy density of the diet without decreasing performance, which means that horses in training do not need to eat as many pounds of grain to maintain their body weight. horses at rest. Traditionally, the increased energy requirement associated with exercise was satisfied by adding more grain to the diet. However, on an equal weight basis, vegetable oil provides horses with two and a half times the digestible energy of corn, and nearly three times the digestible energy of oats. Thus, adding fat to the diet increases the energy density (number of calories per pound of feed) of the diet. The net result of the high calorie content of a fat supplemented diet is that horses in training do not have to eat as many pounds of grain to maintain body weight. Reducing the amount of grain in the diet also decreases the chances of colic and grain overload founder. Horses that need to gain weight also benefit from the high calorie content contained in fat. Thin horses will gain weight and do so without having to eat as much grain, if the diet is fortified with additional fat. Numerous studies have reported the potential benefits of fat supplementation to horses under a variety of exercise conditions. Although the jury is somewhat out on the clear metabolic advantages of fat, it is evident that feeding a fat supplemented diet will not decrease performance in horses that are adjusted to their diets. As a practical note, a high fat diet for a horse can provide 15 to 20 percent of the total calories from fat, while a high fat diet in humans can provide 60 to 70 percent of the total calories. Therefore, even horses receiving a significant amount of vegetable oil do not suffer the potential health consequences seen in humans consuming too much fat. During the summer months, ambient temperatures rise, and horses have the extra physiological burden of keeping themselves cool. Nutritional considerations should be made for feeding horses during summer. First try to minimize the amount of body heat produced by the diet. Research has shown it is beneficial to provide some of the calories required by horses as dietary fat. Since fat contains more than twice as many calories as cereal grains, a horse eating a fat supplemented diet will need to eat fewer pounds of feed. This lower feed intake results in less body heat produced during the digestive process. Research concentrating on the glycemic
response of grain meals fed to performance horses found that sugar response of a grain meal was drastically reduced if the meal contained fat. This lower glycemic response with fat supplemented diets has led to promising results for horses that suffer certain types of tying-up syndrome. The mechanism by which the addition of fat alters glycemic response has been reported to be a general slowing of the rate of stomach emptying. The fact that dietary fat does not contain sugar, and that adding fat to the diet results in general decrease in glycemic response, also may be helpful in
controlling behaviour in horses that become hyper when fed large amounts of grain. This is not to say that feeding fat will calm the savage beast, but it may modify behaviour enough to be noticeable. It should be apparent that dietary fat in the form of vegetable oil, high fat stabilized rice bran, or spray dried vegetable oil is beneficial for performance horses and for horses that need to gain weight. Fat is both palatable and highly digestible by horses. Further, feeding fat does not result in digestive upset that may occur when large amounts of grain are added to the diet. b
June 2015 • Canadian Horse Journal
15
PLANNING YOUR HORSE’S
©ISTOCKPHOTO/NANCY KENNEDY
Run-In Shed
BY MARGARET EVANS Horses are among the most free-ranging of domestic animals. They evolved as nomadic and migratory animals and have adapted to many variables in terrain and weather. They are built and instinctively driven to move, and their first reaction to anything remotely considered a threat is to flee. Domestication has changed some of these genetic qualities to fit human goals, but not by much. Horses can tolerate heat and cold much better than humans, and some breeds have better tolerance than others. But what all of them seek to avoid is extremes of wind, rain, and snow as well as very hot temperatures and accompanying flies. Blankets can address some of these issues, but they have to be constantly changed and managed to keep the horse dry, and to adjust for major weather changes. The horse’s skin and coat together form a sensitive organ finely tuned to the vagaries and nuances of weather and atmosphere. The more naturally horses can be maintained, the better. Horses kept outside in a secure paddock with a shelter or run-in shed can have a more natural lifestyle. They move in and out of their shelter at will, which benefits their digestion and allows their joints to flex naturally and effectively rather than moving in circles in a stall where they constantly put stress on hocks and hindquarters. They can choose to shelter from wind, rain 16
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
and snow depending on the season. A major advantage of a run-in shed is the sheer simplicity and economy of horse accommodation. Building or installing a run-in shed is relatively easy but, before you begin, some planning is needed. To decide exactly what you need, start by considering the nature of the horses you have. If it’s just one horse, a simple three-sided shed of ample height and depth and a good drainage base is fine. But if you have several horses, consider their temperaments and the nature of the herd leader.
Size A shed needs to be expansive enough to safely accommodate the horses so that each can still have a sense of personal space. Geldings may get along pretty well in their buddy pack, but add a mare to the mix and she might be intolerant of other horses in her shelter space. Plan the shelter with escape access in mind. You don’t want a panicky horse trapped in the back of the shed by a dominant animal that won’t let him pass, putting horses at risk of injury and the structure at risk of damage. With two horses you need more than double the space for one. But a yardstick should be at least 100 square feet per horse, or use a 12x12-foot stall size as a general guideline for one horse. More space will be
needed for larger animals such as warmbloods or draft horses. Remember, though, that not all the horses use the space at the same time except, of course, during severe weather. Height should be at least eight feet at the lower (back) end and ten to twelve feet at the front, accounting for any jostling or rearing inside.
Protect your horses, protect your stream Benefit both by learning how to manage waterways and bridges on your property
Location Consider where to put the shelter and the direction its open side will face. Figuring out the best orientation can be tricky because weather can be so variable. What are your prevailing winds? From what direction do your winter storms come? How does sunlight track across the paddock during the day? It is important to place the shelter on high, dry ground so its back wall faces the prevailing winds while its open area doesn’t receive direct sunlight. It should be easily accessible to vehicles, yet away from gates so that you are not hindered when getting equipment in and out of the paddock for cleaning. If you have more than one pasture, consider placing the shed along the fence line so that, with built-in swing gate options in your design, your horses can run out to either one field or another as you manage the grazing for pasture rotation. In winter you could leave the swing gate open so they can access both pastures. If the location is good but the footing less so, shore up the footing with deep, well drained fill topped with fine gravel and perhaps stone dust. Then cover that base with bedding of your choice such as wood shavings. The area will receive a lot of traffic so it must stand up. Expect to do some seasonal maintenance on the footing to keep it firm and well drained. Be prepared to muck out the shed regularly to remove manure and reduce flies. If the location is not perfect, but the structure is deep and spacious, horses will still be able to get out of the wind, rain, heat, and flies.
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Design The sky’s the limit for shed design and there are some excellent designs for purchase available online, including complete shed kits down to the last nail. Some sheds can be constructed so they are mobile but will be more expensive than your own do-it-yourself project. Sheds can be anything from three sides and a sloping roof to a run-in shelter with opened, partitioned stalls, a closed-in storage room for feed, a hay loft, and a tack room. Or sheds can be designed as multiple sheds in a June 2015 • Canadian Horse Journal
17
PHOTO: ŠISTOCK/GDACEY
Plan a Better Horse Fence BY EILEEN E. FABIAN (WHEELER)
Our fence planning series in the
Special Fencing Needs
May issue provided information on
Crowded Areas Strong, safe fencing should be used where many horses congregate or crowd each other, such as near gates, feed/water stations, or shelters. In areas where horses are not often in contact with the fence, such as in very large pastures, a less substantial fence can suffice. Stronger fencing is needed when there are attractions on the other side, such as better grass or equine companions.
good horse fence attributes, as well as considerations for selecting and installing the fence, posts, and gates. This issue will look at fencing for special areas and needs, provide sample fence planning layouts for public and private stables, and answer some common fencing questions. 22
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
Controlled Grazing Controlled or rotational grazing of pasture grasses demands that some areas periodically remain without grazing for regrowth of the grass. If temporary or cross fencing is used to designate controlled sections, it should be just as safe for the horses as the permanent perimeter fence. Temporary fence does not have to be quite as impenetrable because the perimeter fence will eventually contain a loose horse (Figure 1). A younger or
inexperienced horse will need to be introduced to electric fence used in a controlled grazing system. All-Weather Paddock A good management tool for horse facilities on limited acreage is to provide at least one all-weather paddock for foul weather turnout. Also known as a rainy day or sacrifice paddock, this paddock takes the worst wear during unfavorable weather conditions while attempting to preserve the grass of the remaining paddocks. Because turf is easily destroyed during wet conditions, the unfortunate paddock will not be expected to maintain grass and should have all-weather footing. It is to be used for those horses that have to be turned out of their stalls despite the weather. This paddock should have safe, sturdy fencing and should be located on welldrained high ground accessible to the stable. Since it will be an ungrassed exercise lot, it is beneficial to locate or screen it away from the more public areas of the stable. Horse contact with the paddock fence is more likely since it is smaller and horses are more likely to be running and playing in it. Perimeter Fence Many farms make sure that any loose horse cannot leave the property through the use of perimeter fencing around the entire complex. This fence (and/or gates) fills the gaps at the end of access lanes and often surrounds the public entry side of the facility. Containment of loose horses becomes more important as traffic and neighbours increase around the horse facility. Sometimes the perimeter fence functions to keep human and canine intruders away from the horses. Perimeter fence does not have to be of the same construction as paddock or pasture fence since it should have limited contact with unsupervised horses, but it should be visible and strong. Double Fence An alternate fencing scheme favoured by some farms is to double fence so that each paddock has its own fence with an alley between. Double fencing is almost always used with stallions and particularly valuable stock. Other applications include boarding or training facilities where horses are worked and stabled individually so they are not allowed to socialize. Social and antisocial activity over the fence may be virtually eliminated with double fencing. A combination double fence and perimeter fence may be used where human contact with horses is discouraged, such as
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23
THE
Canadian Horse
BY MARGARET EVANS
Canadian foal Woodmont Celtic is just hours old as he runs beside Woodmont Tatryana at Woodmont Canadians in Ladysmith, BC. 28
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
PHOTO: JILL LIVESEY
A TREASURE FOR 350 YEARS
above, left & right: In 1665, King Louis XIV of France sent two stallions and twelve mares to New France, a newly established colony along the Saint Lawrence River, which at the time had a complete absence of horses. One of the first communities in New France to welcome the horses from the King’s Royal Stables was the Congregation de NotreDame on the presentday site of the Maison Saint-Gabriel Museum Historic Site in Montreal. Pictured are the former farmhouse and the stone barn, which dates from the 1820s, where descendants of the horses were housed.
PHOTO: ROBIN DUNCAN PHOTOGRAPHY
right & below: Wendy, a beautiful Canadian mare, and the broodmare band in an idyllic setting at Woodmont Canadians in Ladysmith, BC.
PHOTO: ROBIN DUNCAN PHOTOGRAPHY
PHOTOS: MAISON SAINT-GABRIEL/PIERRE GUZZO
G
ood things were happening in New France in 1665. The New World colony had been under the tight control of the Company of One Hundred Associates since 1627. It capitalized on the fur trade while expanding French colonies along the Gulf of the St. Laurence and the river valley. But they were sporadically under siege from either native Iroquois tribes disrupting the fur trade, turf wars with the British, or conflicts with Quebec settlers resenting the company’s monopoly on trade. With their future constantly threatened, the company finally surrendered its charter. In 1663, Louis XIV made the resource-rich New France a royal province giving it the security that stimulated emigration to the far-flung colony. Those willing to make the move had their travel paid for, especially single women 15 to 30 years of age and sometimes known as the King’s Daughters or the King’s Wards, since they were under guardianship. With marriages, the population of the colony rapidly began to grow. According to the website of Maison Saint-Gabriel Museum and Historic Site in Montreal, when Louis XIV ordered the creation of a royal horse stud in each of his provinces, New France was an anomaly because of the complete absence of horses in the territory. He quickly fixed that.
June 2015 • Canadian Horse Journal
29
PHOTOS: JILL LIVESEY
right: Guinness, a 16.1 hand Canadian stallion, stands at stud at Ebony Breeze Farm in Victoria, BC.
32
PHOTO COURTESY OF KELLY TWORDIK
above, left & right: An inquisitive 2015 Canadian colt frolics at Dan Wilson’s Woodmont Canadians in Ladysmith, BC. Wilson was instrumental in having the Canadian horse declared Canada’s National Horse in 2002. He believes the Canadian horse will survive, as it is a bold symbol of Canada’s national pride.
In 1665, the King not only sent a French infantry garrison, the Carignan-Salières Regiment, to shore up security, but also two stallions and twenty mares selected from the King’s Royal Stables, where up to 700 fine saddle horses, were kept. The King was no slouch when it came to prized horses, and he was an expert horseman. The rough voyage resulted in eight mares perishing. But on July 16, 1665, the stallions and the 12 remaining mares stepped onto Canadian soil to begin a legacy that, this year, celebrates the 350th anniversary of the Canadian horse. Shipments continued and between 1665 and 1671, some 82 horses arrived in New France from the Royal Stables. Those horses most likely originated from native herds in France (Normandy, Brittany, and the historical province of Poitou) and Spain (Andalusia), regions renowned for the quality of their horses since before the Middle Ages. The book The Horse and his Diseases by veterinarian Robert Jennings, published in 1861, described the
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
Canadian as having “ears wide apart and not unfrequently a basin face, the latter, perhaps, a trace of the far remote Spanish blood said to exist in his veins.” The first horses to arrive in New France were allocated to religious communities and to gentlemen with a keen interest in farming. One of the first communities to welcome the horses was the Congregation de Notre-Dame on the present-day site of Maison Saint-Gabriel, which provided a home for the King’s Daughters. The magnificent stone house was built around 1661 and, in 1668, was bought by Marguerite Bourgeoys, who had founded the Congregation de Notre-Dame. There was a barn and several stables made of wood before the construction of the stone barn in the 1820s. Bourgeoys and her colleagues used horses on the farm to grow food for the people in Montreal during the 1670s and they owned five of the horses in the city. Under contract, individual farmers and religious communities were to care for the horses, breed them, and donate a foal to the administration under Intendant Jean Talon within three years. During that time the King continued to own the horses. Foals were then redistributed under the same conditions. The breeding system worked and the population rapidly grew to over 13,000 in the 18th century. The Quebec-based horses proved to be very tough. They adapted to the climate and geographical conditions, much of which was extremely challenging. They could accomplish any task put before them, and developed an enviable reputation as the “little iron horse” that Americans and later the English (after France formerly ceded the territory to Britain in the Treaty of Paris in 1763) came to love and admire. Today, as then, the Canadian is a sound horse with solid feet and legs, broad chest, strong shoulders, arched neck, short back with well-muscled hindquarters, and varying in height from 14.2 to 16 hands or taller. Colours are generally black with some bays, chestnuts, and white markings. Their hallmark features are thick, lush, wavy manes and tails. They are easy keepers, goodnatured, and willing to please under any condition. And
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June 2015 • Canadian Horse Journal
33
C for Barns & L T
Early summer is a great time to do a variety of maintenance tasks around your barn and horse
Properties
property. The time and energy invested now will keep your horses safe and your property looking its best, providing you with year-round peace
BY MARGARET EVANS
of mind and enjoyment.
17 ANCE N E T MAIN s p i T
PHOTO: ©SHUTTERSTOCK/PERRY CORRELL
1
44
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The Barn
At least once a year, assess your barn’s structural integrity by doing a thorough cleaning of the barn’s interior, checking for repairs as you go. Inspect the roof for leaks, holes, and other damage, and clear eavestroughs of debris. Check the foundation for signs of heaving, and if needed, install or extend eavestroughs and drainage around the perimeter to divert water away from the base. Examine electrical fixtures and wiring for damage. To prevent rodents (and horses) from chewing wiring, run it through metal conduits. If water lines froze last winter, preventing that frustrating situation in the future will be a priority. In Canada, waterlines should be buried in the ground at least four to six feet depending on what part of the country you live in. Above-ground pipes should be contained in an insulated space. Consider frost-free hydrants to keep pipes from freezing. The water in the above-ground portion of the pipe drains down below the frost line when the valve is closed. Another preventative option is a water heater, which provides the benefit of warm water to your horses during winter months, encouraging consumption. If the barn needs improved ventilation, now is the time to install windows or vents where
fresh air can enter, and to consider overhead fans which can push air down and promote air circulation. Once horses can stay outside for a few days, pressure-wash the interior walls of the barn to remove dust, dirt, cobwebs, and old birds’ nests. A good time to do this is in the summertime when it’s hot and things dry quickly. If birds are nesting wait until fledglings are out of the nest. Never allow birds to build nests around or above light fixtures where they can interfere with wiring and start a fire. Remove and dispose of any garbage and junk that has accumulated. 2
Rodent Control
Rodents can be a major nuisance. They cause damage to structures, tack, equipment, and electrical wires which increases fire risk. They consume and contaminate feed; spread disease, mites, ticks, lice; and leave a mess with their feces. The first step in rodent control is to remove their food source. There is no greater draw for rodents than a buffet of sweet grain. Store grain and feed in metal bins with securely fitted lids, and sweep up spilled feed immediately. Burn or otherwise dispose of empty grain bags. The next step is to rodent-proof your buildings as much as possible by sealing cracks, gaps, and other entry points. Options to deal with a rodent problem include
Ensure the records of the horses living on your property are up-todate and kept in a separate location outside the barn. Records should include photographs for identification, registration papers, medical information, and other imA member of the rodent control portant details. team keeps watch. A list of up-to-date PHOTO: contacts for the barn ©CANSTOCKPHOTO /LIVESLOW manager, alternate barn contact person, and local emerpredators, traps, and poison. gency services (veterinarian, Barn cats or Jack Russell ambulance, fire, police) should terriers are happy to help keep be placed in a highly visible lorodents under control. Trapping cation, along with the barn adis commonly used because it dress and directions should does not involve poison, which they need to be provided to can be fatal to animals and emergency responders. children. Exercise great caution if poison is used, especially if 4 Replenish First Aid children or pets frequent the Kits barn or a barn cat is in Review the checklist of items residence. Rodents are a part of in your first aid kits – one for barn life, but keeping them the barn, one for the trailer, one under control is essential. in your saddle bag for a trail ride – and replace or update 3 Refresh Your Fire anything that’s been used. Add Safety Plan and any extras you’ve wished for in Emergency the past. It’s so easy to use Procedures something in the kit when away on activities, then forget to Barn fires are one of the replenish it when you get back. most common emergencies Give your kits a thorough affecting horses. You need to cleaning, and make sure they act quickly and calmly, and are ready to go. And remember having a well thought out to do the same for the human emergency plan in place will first aid kit. increase your chances of a positive outcome. 5 Equipment Check If you don’t already have one, a priority should be to A regular maintenance and create a fire safety and safety check on all your tools emergency evacuation plan and and equipment should be have it accessible to everyone standard procedure. Think who frequents the barn. Review about the problems that it with your family, barn occurred during each season of friends, and boarders. Make the past year so you can take sure everyone knows how to steps to prevent them in the use the fire extinguishers, that future. It will feel so good to the exits are well marked, replace those frustrating bent smoke detectors are working, and broken buckets; repair the and No Smoking signs are leaky hoses and taps; fix the prominent. Your barn’s fire loose wheel on the extinguishers should be wheelbarrow; and lubricate serviced each year. annoying squeaky doors. 46
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
6
Repair, Clean, and Store Winter Rugs
Winter is finally over! It’s time to get your horse’s winter rugs cleaned, repaired, and stored. You may opt for specialized cleaning at a horse blanket laundry service where they have heavy duty washing machines built for the job, and can re-waterproof the blankets for you as well. Usually these services require that you remove as much of the horse hair as possible, so a good stiff brushing will be required. Store clean, dry blankets in the original bag they came in, or in sturdy sealed bags. Save storage space by vacuuming the air out of the bags. 7
Tame Your Tack Room
In an organized tack room, the high priority items are easily accessible. Pull out all your stuff and decide how to organize it so it works best for you. Install shelving, buy hooks, containers, and racks to give every item a home and to get everything off the floor. Any tack and equipment you no longer need should be donated, sold, or discarded. Sweep and scrub, get in those dark corners to remove cobwebs, and consider a paint job to brighten walls. Install more or better lighting if needed. Clean out the fridge and dispose of any out-of-date medications. Your veterinarian or pharmacy can provide you with medication disposal information. Leather goods need a dry environment to prevent mould. If your tack storage area is subject to dampness or humidity, use a fan to keep the air circulating. Keep a broom and dust pan in your tack room to sweep up horse hair, dirt, and debris, and before you leave each day, make sure everything has been put away in its proper place. You’ll love your clean tack room and wonder why you didn’t organize it sooner. 8
Hay Storage
Clear out your hay storage area so it’s ready for this this
year’s crop. Collect and dispose of loose baler twine. Some recycling outlets will take the plastic variety of twine, which can’t be burned. Remove dust which is highly combustible, and check electrical wires which are often damaged by rodents. Make sure your hay thermometer is working properly before your new hay supply arrives. 9
Stalls and Paddocks
Cleanliness and safety are essential in confined areas such as stalls and paddocks. Here you will repair/replace chewed or damaged boards, partitions, and doors, and inspect for hazards such as sharp edges, nails, and wasp nests. Dirt floors are low in cost and absorb urine but also absorb urine odours and can develop uneven spots. Level those areas with suitable fill and compact it. If the budget allows, consider stall mats for a more permanent solution, which may also reduce bedding costs. If water collects in the paddock, install a run-off system to divert rainwater away from the horse’s confinement areas. This will reduce mud and prevent manure from washing out of the paddock. Paddock footing deteriorates over time and may need to be replaced. In cold or wet weather, horses should not be standing or lying in mud, and in summer the paddock should not be dusty. Choose a footing material suitable for your climate and such as sand, gravel, hog fuel, or a combination of footing types. 10
Run-in Shelters and Loafing Sheds
Shelters should be cleaned of manure daily, and at least once each season they should be checked for wear and tear such as loosening posts or boards. The roof should be checked for damage from wind and heavy snow loads that may have strained joints. If the flooring is dirt, it may need filling to return it to level ground.
8 8
SECRETS TO
Making The Show Ring Fun Again
BY APRIL CLAY, M.Ed., REGISTERED PSYCHOLOGIST There may come a time in your riding career when you find yourself saying Why do I put myself through this? Why do I show? It usually arises when you’re under considerable stress, or after a cycle of disappointment. It can happen for many reasons, and when it does, it’s time to put the joy back into competing with your horse.
1
See Competition as Cooperation
Competition can make you very selfcentered… if you let it. Your thoughts can become consumed with the need to win, and therefore others need to lose. Enjoyment goes out the window, and a talented rider can end up walking away from something she loves. One way to look at competition is as a cooperative act. You and others agree on rules and codes of conduct in order to compete together. These do not have to be opposing concepts. Much fun can come from focusing on others. How can you give back to fellow riders at the shows you frequent? How can you support others? Getting out of your head and into someone else’s needs can be motivating.
2 PHOTO: ROBIN DUNCAN PHOTOGRAPHY
Redefine Success
50
www.HORSEJournals.com • June 2015
Everyone needs to experience success in order to feel motivated. Without a ribbon in hand, many riders don’t feel successful. They are sometimes referred to as perfectionists who kill their own motivation. Whatever we do in life, we need to feel as though we are making progress and having an effect. So if the fun has gone out of competing, adjust your measuring stick. Measure for effort, for risk taking, for horsemanship, for skill development. Success comes in many forms, so don’t limit yourself to just one.
3
Get Back to Basics
Why did you decide to ride and compete in the first place? As a young rider,
what did you celebrate about horses? Chances are you felt very privileged to be around them. How are you lucky to be where you are? How many others cannot do what you’re doing? Getting back to the basic love of your sport can help you feel grateful again. The joy is in the doing. And remember to thank your horse, because horse and rider are a team and you’re doing this together.
4
Develop a Focus Switch
When thinking about competing and riding never stops, burnout can occur, and thinking can turn to obsession. The trap is thinking that if you just keep turning it over in your head, you’ll improve. You won’t. Just as a muscle needs to strain then relax in order to strengthen, your mind needs a recovery period in order to function efficiently. Plan time to problem solve and think about riding, and when not to. When that focus switch is turned off, it doesn’t necessarily mean your mind is empty, just that there are no horsey thoughts being entertained. You could be listening to music, or hanging out with friends. Even at a horse show, you need times when the switch is off to clear your head.
5
Embrace Butterflies as Friends
Performance anxiety can diminish the enjoyment of competition. Feeling apprehensive, the knot in your stomach, and your racing heart may have you wishing you had just stayed home. If you can accept the experience of butterflies as a normal part of competitive life, their fluttering will not escalate. Some anxiety is normal because your body is changing in preparation for a challenge.
PHOTO: BROWNPAU / FLICKR
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Real Estate • Stony Plain, Alberta June 2015 • Canadian Horse Journal
57
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