TAGLIATELLE WITH ASPARAGUS AND PARMESAN FONDUTA This entire dish is right out of Rose and Ruthie’s River Café playbook,
serves 4 as a main
with just a few tweaks of my own. They taught me how to make fonduta, a silky sauce rich with crème fraîche and egg yolks. It takes less time
2 large egg yolks
and just a bit more effort than tomato sauce, and turns a plate of pasta
350g crème fraîche
into an elegant and impressive meal. Get yourself some asparagus spears a nd you’ll enjoy the juicy slivers in each bite.
150g Parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus a bit more for finishing
Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
1 medium garlic clove, finely grated
that are as thick as your index finger – n ot those thin or sprouty ones –
Meanwhile, bring a couple of centimetres of water to the boil in a small pot. Whisk together the egg yolks, crème fraîche, Parmesan, and garlic in a large heatproof bowl that will fit snugly in the pot without making contact with the boiling water. Set the bowl in the small pot and whisk the egg mixture constantly, occasionally scraping the sides and removing the bowl from the pot every couple of minutes as you whisk to keep the cooking nice and slow (don’t let it bubble). The mixture will look thick and clumpy for a few seconds, then become liquidy, and then, once the cheese has melted, silky smooth. Cook just until the liquidy sauce has thickened slightly (it should thinly coat the back of a spoon), 6 to 8 minutes. Set the bowl aside in a warm place.
Sea salt 450g asparagus, woody bottoms snapped off, stalks cut on the diagonal into long 1-cm thick pieces, tips left whole ½ recipe Fresh Egg Pasta (page 127), cut into tagliatelle
Salt the large pot of boiling water generously until it tastes slightly less salty than the sea. If you’re confident that the pasta and asparagus will finish cooking at the same time, add them both to the water. If you’re a worrywart, cook the asparagus first, scoop it into a colander to drain, then cook the pasta. Cook the asparagus until it is juicy with a slight bite, 3 to 4 minutes; and cook the pasta until it is fully cooked, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the pasta and asparagus well in a colander, then pop them back into the now-empty pot. Pour in most of the fonduta and toss gently but well. Season to taste with salt and more fonduta, if you’d like. Transfer to bowls, top with a little more Parmesan, and eat straightaway.
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