South Tyrol — birthplace of the Wanderers Words by Caoilfhionn Rose
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ack in November we had the pleasure of visiting South Tyrol, an enclave of northern Italy nestled in the shadows of the majestic peaks of the Dolomites. It’s a beautifully bucolic province situated on the Austrian border, about halfway between Verona and Innsbruck, lined with vineyards, medieval castles, churches, alpine grasslands, apple orchards, snow-capped mountains and ski-pistes. Any clued-in person will be aware that, as a general rule, Italian and German cultures do not mix. If anything, they couldn’t be more paradoxical in economics, landscape, architecture, mannerisms, food and art. South Tyrol presents itself as the geographical embodiment of this paradox. First, a little background for you. South Tyrol is an autonomous province that draws its charm from a fusion
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of Austrian and Italian cultures. Once part of a wider AustroHungarian empire, it was commandeered by Italy in 1918. There are three languages spoken here; German (the main language), Italian and the local dialect, Ladin. Before our trip we had researched the area and read about the different languages spoken, but we weren’t prepared for how much the Austrian culture infiltrated this Italian province. Despite Mussolini’s fierce efforts to try and strip the Austrian culture from the area by forbidding residents from speaking German and enforcing Italian language and culture into daily activities, locals fought for their freedom and unique cultural identity. Many wish that South Tyrol was independent of Italy, and those natives we spent time with remarked that they felt neither German nor Italian, but South Tyrolean.
South Tyrol seemed to us the perfect fusion of Italian romance and charm, Austrian strength and practicality.
Some might assume that the province would suffer from an infinite identity crisis with schools being divided according to mother tongue and language barriers causing integration issues, as well as tensions surrounding those who bear a strong sense of national identity and do not wish to be independent of Italy. Although this is the case in some areas of the province, South Tyrol seemed to us the perfect fusion of Italian romance and charm, Austrian strength and practicality. Fortuitously, South Tyrol survived its parental tug of war, and although some parts of life here are unquestionably Germanic and others Italian, this idyllic province is a remarkably idiosyncratic part of Europe. It is a place of ceaseless cultural contrasts and crossroads, which over time have been able to nurture a blossoming economy, high standard of living House of Coco 87
and boundless propensity for initiative. When driving up the winding roads towards the mountains, one can’t help but feel awash with creativity and imaginative ideas. There’s something about the crisp, fresh air, unadulterated landscapes and poetic tune of another language floating into our ears that inspires us. The same goes for the South Tyrolean natives who have not allowed the imposing mountains that encircle the region to inhibit their creative senses. Alpine life isn’t just days spent on the slopes and aprèsski belly-warming boozy nights. On the contrary, it presents a number of challenges to mountain inhabitants, who must house the ability to adapt, use swift ingenuity when it comes to handling problems posed by the extreme conditions, and a strong creative spirit to maintain sanity amidst the harsh winters. The creativity visible in South Tyrol’s core art fields, as well as their cultural and creative sectors, expresses the very 88 House of Coco
sentiment of what it is to live in such an inimitable region. From their architecture to their food, their wine to their art, South Tyroleans show a rigorous spontaneity and an explorative vision that goes beyond the peaks of the Dolomites. n fact, South Tyrol’s current creative scene lives, breathes and inspires on more than five continents. Jasmine Deporta (photographer), Elisa Bergmann and Nadja Pugneth (fashion designers) are all exemplary creatives in their respective fields and soon came to the realisation that each was not the only South Tyrolean making waves in the artistic world. The trio wanted to bring their creativity home, to inspire others and give back to their region what it so fluidly gifted to them in abundance. They acted on this initiative to produce the ‘Wanderer’ project. Wanderer is founded on a passion for the arts, but also for heimat. Heimat,
pronounced [hai-mat], is a German word with no English equivalent - it denotes the relationship of a human being towards a certain spatial social unit forming a contrast to social alienation. Wanderer is a project centred on South Tyroleans who travel the world and spread their creative wings but also, as part of the Wanderer collective, gather in an exciting location in South Tyrol for one day to share their experiences, inspire those who follow and create a piece of heimat. The organisation is a network of more than 50 creative leaders in their individual field, making for an enthralling, innovative project. The founders hope that the Wanderer initiative is adopted, regionally, nationally and internationally. Experiencing the Wanderer initiative while visiting South Tyrol was more than just inspiring, instilling us with thoughts and ideas about our own lives and projects. The creativity seeping from the pores of the group’s members was palpable,
leaving us with a hunger for more information from this vibrant collective. Before now the exclusive faction had only an aesthetically pleasing Tumblr to entice prying eyes, but in the wake of their relaunch, we wait with bated breath to see what the Wanderers have up their sleeves. Meet some of the Wanderers and other South Tyrolean creatives:
Jasmine Deporta – Founding Wanderer Jasmine is a photographer by trade, however her multidisciplinary mind tends to roam into other creative fields when liberated. Based in Bolzano, South Tyrol, Deporta’s inspiration comes from a love of colour, dreams and youth. With an eclectic view of the world and a ferocious ability to express it, Deporta combines delicate and interpersonal structures with relatable circumstances and common spaces creating curious and alluring aesthetics. Her sure-fire eye for an abnormal fashion editorial, and the grainy
visuals that only film can capture, blur the lines between fashion photography and art.
Stefan Siegel – Founder and CEO of Not Just A Label Stefan was a master of many tasks, leading successful careers in modelling, finance and economics, and fashion and advertising consultancy, before founding Not Just A Label. He grew up in an area responsible for over 40 per cent of Italy’s high-end and luxury manufacturing, cementing his love for fashion. Believing in the creativity abilities of others and the respect needed in the artistic industries to promote aspiring artists, Stefan founded NJAL with his brother Daniel. NJAL is a pioneering global platform dedicated to emerging fashion designers and ranks among the most respected websites in the fashion industry. As the world’s leading designer platform for showcasing and nurturing today’s pioneers in contemporary fashion, it represents over 18,000 designers
from 100 countries. It is an infinitely expanding destination devoted to facilitating industry growth and has established itself as a distinctive creative hub that fosters innovation.
Brigitte March Niedermair – Photographer A fascinating woman with effortless grandeur, Brigitte March Niedermair has been a photographer for over fifteen years, shooting for the likes of magazines giants Harper’s Bazaar and Wallpaper*. Niedermair’s photographs express a continuous dialogue between a love of commercial fashion photography and a passion for fine art. The boundaries of both are continually pushed by this artistic alchemist whose love of analogue photography adds a plethora of character to her images. A favourite of Carine Roitfeld, whose artistic direction seems to veer along the same path, Niedermair has an intrinsic House of Coco 89
creativity, to develop distinctive and exceptional products. Using the latest microtechnologies, the TEAM draw on high-tech ingredients from the plants grown and nurtured in their own garden with the latest technology based on a complex principle of synergy. TEAM DR JOSEPH has managed to create symbiosis between nature and technology, creating a new wave of cosmetics in the process.
aptitude for producing images of ceremonious perfection Her talent recently resulted in a harmonious collaboration with artist Lucy McRae and and Wallpaper* fashion director Isabelle Kountoure, where nature, art and fashion collided in an unexpected embrace. The Wanderers fuel each others’ ideas and initiatives, creating a melting pot for support in innovation. While in South Tyrol, they invited us to explore the many accomplishments of their creative homebodies.
Don’t let the height put you off though, as the entire experience is breathtaking.
Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) Corones - Kronplatz/Plan de Corones It’s no wonder that the star architect Zaha Hadid, who is famous for her powerful, curving forms and elongated structures that avoid right angles, found inspiration in the mountains of South Tyrol. Teaming up with Reinhold Messner, the famous mountaineer, adventurer and explorer who is renowned for making the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, the duo created the MMM Corones. Embedded within the peak of Mount Kronplatz, the museum is devoted to Alpinism’s supreme discipline. Since 2003, Messner has been working on a project developing mountaineering museums, successfully opening in five different locations and uniting stories around the growth, culture, discipline and history of mountain climbing. Surrounded by the alpine peaks of the Zillertal, Ortler and Dolomite, MMM Corones is the sixth and final museum in Messner’s collection. Hadid’s distinctive architectural style is unmistakable in MMM. The museum is characterised by the use of concrete as the dominant construction material, along with 90 House of Coco
geometric obstacles challenging the realm of known possibility, different floor levels creating the illusion of climbing, and large windows allowing the nearby mountain views to set the museum’s backdrop. We received a personal tour of the exhibition from Reinhold Messner himself, an inspirational man who told us tales of his wild expeditions while guiding us around Hadid’s masterpiece. To see this small museum on the side of a mountain at 2,275 metres up is somewhat bewildering. How did they do it? The complexity of the project was the source of many sleepless nights and taxed minds, not to mention the logistical hardships of construction. Don’t let the height put you off though, as the entire experience is breathtaking and may even inspire you to take-up mountaineering. Reach MMM Corones directly via the cable car or, if you’re an adventurer, by foot
as part of a mountain hike. The primary disciplines of mountain climbing are the fundamental leitmotifs of the MMM Coronoes, as exemplified by a rare collection of photographs and art, as well as an array of items collected by Reinhold Messner during his lifetime as an explorer.
TEAM DR. JOSEPH The tale of Dr. Joseph began almost 40 years ago, after the doctor sustained a sporting injury and turned to natural remedies. Feeling first hand the miraculous effects of natural medicine, he embarked on an explorative journey-turnedsuccess story that has resulted in his pioneering South Tyrol company TEAM DR. JOSEPH. Located against idyllic Alpine/ Mediterranean landscapes, the family company combines an understanding of nature and knowledge of naturopathy with the latest research and a flair of
The fundamentals of these cosmetics is a ‘carrier system’ that absorbs readily into the skin with protective microemulsions, natural fragrances and a smart system of free-from-alcohol preservatives. This means that everything from this revolutionary company is entirely natural with a combination of high-tech plant components and the latest technology providing a revolutionary sense of wellbeing. In a world swamped by the demand for cosmetics and with that demand sometimes being met with products damning to our skin, we need innovators like TEAM DR. JOSEPH who have created a brand of cosmetics that return our bodies to nature. We tried the Daily Energising Cream and the results were phenomenal within just one week. We can’t wait to get our hands on more TEAM DR. JOSEPH products! ■
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El Tucán
— a Throwback to Cuban Cabaret in the heart of Miami
Words by Caoilfhionn Rose
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hrow yourself back to 1931 to the tropical climes of Havana, Cuba, when Tropicana Cabaret, known as the “Paradise under the stars”, first opened its doors to revellers who would relish in the clubs Cabaret Dinner spectacular for decades to come. Tropicana grew as a global attraction, alluring high-end audiences to the Mariano district of Havana to enjoy the performances by worldfamous entertainers. Over the years Tropicana’s stage has been graced by artists such as Carmen Miranda, Nat King Cole and Celia Cruz, to name but a few. Tropicana has now been named a National Monument – the beacon of Cuba’s admired cabaret culture. This sounds amazing, right? Imagine being one of the Cubans who make up more than 30%
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of Miami’s population and not being able to enjoy shows like those performed at Tropicana. Cabaret dinners were once a staple at any Miami hotel worth visiting, with headliners such as Ella Fitzgerald and the Rat Pack. Those days have faded into a distant memory and where luxurious and decadent cabaret theatres once stood, nightclubs now govern. Well, House of Coco is officially calling it. Cabaret is back! Obliging as a window to the lost era of vivacious shows, live music and extraordinary dining, El Tucán appeals to every sense. It’s as if Tropicana has sent Cuban cabaret culture along a rhythm wave directly from the island to Miami’s Brickell district. In a Baz Luhrman-esque atmosphere, El Tucán forms an elegant experience that represents an integral part of the lively House of Coco 93
Caribbean culture. Housed at the corner of SW First Avenue and SW 11th Street in Brickell, El Tucán flawlessly transports guests back to a time when cabaret reigned supreme in the entertainment world. Soaked in glitz, glamour, and vintage charm El Tucán gloriously pays homage to a lost era. From the ticket booth at the entrance, manned by strikingly dressed hostesses, whose effortlessly cool nature encapsulates the very essence of El Tucán, to the curtains that guise the gilded stage in the theatre-style venue, the crushed velvet accents and gold-framed mirrors, to the antique two-man dining tables lit up by old-fashioned lamps beneath the sparkling original Murano chandelier (la pièce de résistance, in our opinion); 94 House of Coco
everything about the lounge is evocative of 1940s Cuba with a contemporary curve of Hollywood glamour. The owners of El Tucán have a wealth of experience in crafting swanky bars and commanding them to success. Michael Ridard and Mathieu Massa, owners of the Bâoli Group, collaborated with the New York designer, Robert McKinely, to turn the two-story, 6,587-square-foot space, into the theatre spectacular it is today. The main floor of El Tucán comprises of two bars, a stage and a dance floor, and this is undoubtedly where the action unfolds as the night wears on. Overlooking this scene on the second floor is another bar and sitting area, designed in a mezzanine structure to allow for optimum visuals of the stage.
This area can be privatized upon request and even has it’s own private entrance – an indulgence we were lucky enough to experience.
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reative Director and music documentarian, Emilia Menocal, and Grammy award-winning pianist, composer and producer, Marlow Rosado, had a vision for El Tucán of fashioning a club that brought that Old-World feeling of dinner and a show to the nightlife scene in Miami. Emilia Menocal knows Cuba and she knows the character that the country and it’s inhabitants have. In 2006, she directed the Charlize Theronproduced documentary East of Havana, which told the story of ‘80s underground hip-hop on the island of Cuba. Her experience in
Cuba was one that inspired her vision for El Tucán. Carefully curated, El Tucán is a far cry from the traditional Miami nightclub; “As a Cuban growing up away from home, I have always endeavored to build a bridge with the country and its culture. Brining the Tropicana to Miami will mark a historic day in which the two cultures unite and what better way than doing this through the power of dance and music?” To ring in the New Year, Emilia invited the performers from Tropicana to perform at El Tucán and thus the club was baptised, and ready to rise to international fame. This inaugural show, which came during a historic time between US and Cuba relations, marked the first performance of Tropicana dancers in the United
States after 32 lengthy years. “This marks the beginning of normalization between Cuba – Miami relations. The fact that Miami has now hosted acts such as the Buena Vista Social Club, Cucu Diamantes and now el Tropicana is symbolic of actual change. Being Cuban, no longer means being an outsider” proudly adds Menocal. Menocal and Rosado, a dynamic and talented duo, have curated a captivating atmosphere with the help of art adorned walls, an eclectic musical repertoire featuring international bands, stunning stage attires by famed stylist, Danny Santiago, an incomparable dining menu, and cocktails crafted passionately by the in-house mixologists. Opt for one of two dinner seating’s, available at 8 and 10 pm, and
indulge in the imaginatively explorative set menu, hewn by famed Michelin-pedigreed chef, Jean Paul Lourdes. Marlow Rosado has curated a night of music that will boom through your eardrums and send quakes through your feet, inviting you to join the 11-piece Latin orchestra in a free-for-all hurrah on the main dance floor. An ensemble of Afro-Latin beats, electric pop and classic jazz harmoniously collide with the strong, smooth tones of resident performers, cabaret dancers and an effervescent MC. The intimate, theatre-style venue is also open late night so partygoers can continue fêting after-hours. Dimmed lighting and sultry, electric Cuban vibes make El Tucán the perfect date location. ■
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