City Views June 2013: Cape Town's water stories by Cape Town Partnership

CITYVIEWS

June 2013

Photo: Justin Patrick

YOUR FREE CAPE TOWN CENTRAL CITY PAPER

Cape Town’s

WATER STORIES

How

water wise

are you?

>> page 4&5

A look into

Long Street Baths

Pirates, paddleboats and Cape Town’s

port culture

>> page 8&9

Connecting Cape Town one story at a time

>> page 10&11

around

town

CityViews

Cape Town’s

Intersection of Buitengracht and Walter Sisulu Avenue

New retailers in the CBD Aniyor Café and Bakery Aniyor’s menu promises fusion food made from locally sourced ingredients. You can also sample Nigiro teas at the all-you-candrink tea buffet. Thibault Square T: 021 419 5356

Lionshead Bar Another funky bar has opened its doors on bustling Bree Street. Stop in at Lionshead Bar for an after-work drink or one of their regular live music nights. 103 Bree Street lionsheadbeerhall@gmail.com

port culture

>> page 8&9

>> page 4&5

>> page 10&11

Connecting Cape Town one story at a time

Created by: Alma Viviers, Ambre Nicolson, Judith Browne, Justin Patrick, Lesley Hay-Whitton, Lisa Burnell

Have you ever noticed how beautiful the city looks in the rain? For the cover of this month’s edition, photographer Justin Patrick went out on a wet winter’s day to capture images of the slick city streets – and the reﬂections of people in them.

Contact: Judith Browne: 021 419 1881 judith@capetownpartnership.co.za www.capetowncid.co.za www.capetownpartnership.co.za

Design: Infestation www.infestation.co.za 021 461 8601

Reader feedback

Your city, your views Since March 2013, we have been experimenting with the format of City Views and asking readers for ideas on what the publication can become. What have you had to say?

Telling your story in City Views We’re always on the lookout for stories of people who are shaping their city, their community, their lives for the better. If you would like to be featured or know of someone who is worth featuring, please send your story to judith@ capetownpartnership.co.za. We cannot promise to publish every story, but we can promise to consider it.

“What appeals to me in the publication is the fact that the issues are themed (I especially like the ‘Cape Town as an everyday city’ issue) and the way the publication highlights interesting places using maps. I’m missing a few smaller interviews on a page where you ask people where they buy their fresh produce for example, or what they envision for a certain space. If I were editor, I would show people how Cape Town has changed over the years: then and now.” John Edwards

Sharing City Views’ stories

We are trying to including regular vox pops (see page 12) from people on the street. Writer Ambre Nicolson has also dug up some archival photos for our story on the Long Street Baths to show how this Cape Town institution has changed (and stayed the same) over the years.

All of the stories found in the pages of City Views are available for syndication, for free. If you have a community paper or publication that you believe would benefit from the use of these stories, please contact judith@ capetownpartnership.co.za

“I’d approach the publication the way an archaeologist would approach a dig – I’d want to reveal the historical layers and make evident what preceded the present. I don’t think we can really achieve a true sense of place without doing this. I might look to historical figures that lived in the CBD and see whether our sense of present place can be informed by their sense of past place. I’d also include images of details, of moments within the CBD that aren’t ‘pretty’ or perfect, but that speak to a realness, to a city lived-in.” Dalli Weyers

Distributing City Views

If you’re an eager reader of City Views – and you know others who would enjoy reading it too – consider becoming a distributor. All we need is your contact details, address and how many copies you need each month. Or, if you would just like to track down where you can obtain your FREE copy, send an email to Aziza Patandin on aziza@capetownpartnership.co.za.

In this issue we have tried to excavate some of the hidden, historical layers of the city on the map (see pages 6 and 7), by not merely plotting places but exploring some of the stories that these places hold. Tell us what you think.

SAVE THESE NUMBERS ON YOUR PHONE

Have your say On Twitter: @City_Views

If you live or work in the Central City Improvement District, be sure to save these numbers on your phone.

On Facebook: www.facebook.com/CityViewsCapeTown

CCID Security Manager: 082 453 2942

By email: judith@capetownpartnership.co.za Through the post: Cape Town Partnership The Terraces, 34 Bree Street Cape Town 8000

CITY VIEWS

YOUR FREE

CAPE TOWN

CENTRAL CITY

PAPER

YOU

R FRE

May 2013

CITY VIEW S

E CAP

E TOW

N CEN

TRA

L CIT Y

PAP

CCID Deputy Security Manager: 082 442 2112

April

2013

CCID 24-hour number: 082 415 7127 SAPS Control Room: 021 467 8002

Cape Town as

BIODIVERSE CITY

The faces of an Cape Town as sity Cape Town How Cape urban biodiver got its Town hotspot Con groove >> page 11 nec 6, 7 & 8 >> page ting >> page 3 Cap e Tow >> page n one 4&5 | CAR I NG sto ry CLEAN | SAFE at a tim e

Foundation

Intersection of Buitengracht and Riebeeck Street

Published by: The Cape Town Partnership and the Central City Improvement District (CCID)

Pirates, paddleboats and Cape Town’s

Radio

Nelson Mandela Boulevard: outbound between Searle Road and Hospital Bend

Long Street Baths

water wise

Children’s

Table Bay Boulevard: inbound between Marine Drive and Christiaan Barnard Street

Extensive road rehabilitation work will also be done during these weekends, between Fridays at 19h00 and Mondays at 05h00, on the outbound carriageway of Table Bay Boulevard from Friday 31 May until Sunday 30 June 2013. This will also necessitate the intermittent closure of some of the lanes as well as on and off ramps. However all lanes will be open during peak traffic times and in the event of rain the work will be postponed. Try to use alternative routes during the course of the maintenance and rehabilitation times. If you need to travel on these routes, please adhere to all the posted traffic restrictions, including speed limits – both for your own safety and that of the workers.

WATER STORIES

A look into

How

are you?

The city as an

ecosystem

of the

Until Sunday 30 June, roadworks are scheduled to take place over weekends from Fridays at 19h00 to Monday at 05h00, weather permitting. This will include line painting and minor repair work on the following roads and intersections:

Cape Town’s

Maduna

A city, much like a car, needs regular maintenance to ensure its smooth operation and continued performance. Here is where and when you can expect to encounter road maintenance and rehabilitation work in the month of June.

June 2013

Childre speaki n on the ng out airwave s

>> page

Lerato

in the CBD

CITYVIEWS

YOUR FREE CAPE TOWN CENTRAL CITY PAPER

Photo:

Roadworks

of both development and climate change on our local coastline and sea levels (page 3). Why not share your perspective of Cape Town as a place of sweet waters with us? Do you have a secret beach spot, have you captured the city in all its rain-soaked glory or do you know of the best watering hole in the city? Share your thoughts and photos relating to water in and around the city with us on Facebook or Twitter.

Alex Latimer

good place for a refreshment station. This development kickstarted Cape Town’s status as a port city where cultures met and mingled, and goods were traded and exchanged. In this edition, we look at two different sides of the industry that contributes R1.2-billion to the South African economy (page10), and speak to Henry Trotter, author of Sugar Girls & Seamen, about port culture (page 11). On 8 June, World Oceans Day, we are reminded of the important role the sea plays in climate, food supply, economies and the global ecosystem. Conservation biologist, surfer and head of environmental policy and strategy for the City of Cape Town, Gregg Oelofse give us great insight into the dynamics of Cape Town as a coastal city and the influence

City Views is a placemaking publication and free community paper co-published by the Cape Town Partnership and the Central City Improvement District. It aims to grow and connect people and places – through storytelling – to help us, as a city, acknowledge our past, overcome our differences, and shape our future.

Ilustration by:

he month of June is officially rainy season in Cape Town, which heralds a time, not just of misty mornings, wind-battered umbrellas and rainbows, but also of torrential downpours that cause floods and stormy seas, justifying the name “Cape of Storms”. This got us thinking about Cape Town’s unique relationship with the weather, as well as with water in all its various forms. The ancient Khoi name for Cape Town – Camissa, meaning “the place of sweet waters” – points to the value placed on the fresh water provided by Table Mountain’s springs. Although this is not a visible feature in our urban landscape today – the springs are diverted to the city’s storm-water system – this was precisely the reason why the Dutch East India Company deemed Cape Town a

CITYVIEWS

Photo: Justin Patrick

water stories

June 2013

Social Department: 082 563 4289

June 2013

about

CityViews

town

Supplied by Greg Oelofse and the City of Cape Town

How will climate change affect our city’s coastline?

As a city, Cape Town is embraced by 300km of coastline. This precious natural resource is an essential part of our city’s past and its identity today, but it is also highly vulnerable to the effects of global warming and rising sea levels. Gregg Oelofse, conservation biologist, surfer and head of environmental policy and strategy for the City of Cape Town, explains how climate change will affect our shores and what we can do about it.

magine cutting Cape Town out with a cookie cutter and putting it in the middle of the Karoo – it would hardly be Cape Town, would it? I believe our coastline is fundamental to our identity as a city. It’s our biggest asset, central to our economy, identity and sense of place. As Cape Town has urbanised we sometimes forget this, but at its heart Cape Town is a port city, a coastal city and a fishing city. It was established as part of a shipping route, so little wonder that much of our cultural heritage is linked to the sea. This is our legacy, and with it comes the responsibility to look after our coastline as a precious natural resource. The city’s mandate ends at the high-water mark, so we handle the beaches. Of course, nature doesn’t make that distinction, so we try to look at these things holistically. Our work includes dealing with law enforcement around poaching,

shark spotting, dune management, wrecks, coastal pollution, development and coastal policy and much else too – basically how people interact with the coastline. About four years ago we looked at climate change and sea rise in coastal areas, to try to get a handle on the risk our coastal areas face. We found that compounding factors make the risk significant, in other words many things combined substantially increase the overall risk. The risk of climate change is a compound of several factors: a small mean sea level rise associated with bigger and more frequent storms, these storms happening in an environment in which the shoreline has been fixed due to human development, the fact that the shoreline being fixed means that the coastline cannot recover as quickly as it should do and therefore the coastline is made more vulnerable to the next storm.

Rising sea levels Climate change predicts that there will be a rise in sea levels due to thermal expansion. Put simply: warmer water means more volume. In addition, melting glaciers in Greenland, the Arctic and the Antarctic will also add volume to the sea. Experts agree that sea levels will rise, but the predicted rate and extent of that rise vary hugely: from 30cm to 6m (in which case the Maldives will disappear). We are already seeing raised readings, although whether that is due to climate change or about natural variation no one can say at present. The current consensus is that by 2100, the mean sea level rise would be around 76cm.

is released onto our shoreline. The first two elements combined cause added risk: the higher sea level and more frequent and severe storms means that we have compounded risk.

Vulnerable coastlines Coastal systems are by their nature very dynamic. In Cape Town, with its two large bays, complex systems govern sand movement and sediment transfer. What increases the risk for the city is that we have fixed our coastline, which means it is more vulnerable. For example, sand is deposited on our False Bay beaches during winter and in summer the southeaster blows that sand inland. These systems are an adaptable and

Cape Town is embraced by

300

Bigger storms

The earth’s atmosphere is warming; this means there will be an increase in energy, which means bigger storms. So we’ll have more frequent storms, and also more severe storms. You know the huge waves you see breaking over the Sea Point Promenade? Imagine that but far, far bigger. These “discrete storm events”, as we call them, last between 8 and 36 hours, and are highly destructive because massive energy

KM of coastline

appropriate way of buffering against the coastal storms we experience but they require space to operate. In places like Sea Point this buffer zone is no longer in place due to the way we have developed the shoreline. The sea hits the promenade, and there is no buffer to the energy. In the case of a big storm the natural systems would be able absorb and recover from the storm but because we have fixed the coastline it no longer recovers, or it recovers slowly. As a result

“I believe our coastline is fundamental to our identity as a city. It’s our biggest asset, central to our economy, our identity and our sense of place.” Gregg Oelofse

the next storm is even more destructive and the shoreline is made progressively more vulnerable.

So what can we do? Thankfully we have now defined a coastal edge, which has been included in the projected framework of the city. Once our proposed legislation is passed it will help to ensure that no inappropriate infrastructure is built to the seaward side of this line. This will help to protect the spaces where we retain the natural functioning dune systems. This is the best way to protect our natural environment and also to protect the city and its assets in the future. In a broad sense we need to ensure that the coastal edge is defined and that those areas are protected. We should stop developing properties too close to the water’s edge. We also need to manage informal access to the beaches better, as it can result in the dunes systems being damaged. We need to recognise that these are essential to the health of our coastal systems. One thing that we as individuals can do is never to litter; most of the litter we see on our beaches, which can be incredibly harmful to both animals and the environment, is left there by humans. Most importantly, we must get out there and enjoy our beaches. We are blessed to have such a beautiful coastline so close to our city and it is all of ours to enjoy.

about

town

CityViews

Thirsty facts

ﬁgures

June 2013

What is more precious than gold, clearer than diamonds, the source of life, and the purveyor of legends? The answer is water, of course. Here are some interesting facts and statistics that highlight why this resource is so precious. Compiled by: Alma Viviers

H2O AND YOU

Splashing sports The City of Cape Town manages:

28 beaches 19 tidal pools 08 Blue Flag beaches 36 swimming pools 13 resorts Cape Town’s coastline is perfect for many waterbased sports, including scuba diving, surfing, body boarding, snorkelling, windsurfing, kitesurfing, kayaking, sailing, fishing, shark-cage diving, whale watching and swimming.

DID YOU KNOW?

A natural depression on the Green Point common used to fill with water every winter and it was here that young sailing enthusiasts established the Green Point Amateur Boat and Canoe Club in 1887. In 1889 the municipality deepened and extended this vlei to create a water body nearly 2km around and 1.5m deep, which was used for boat races until 1899. There are approximately

91 000 private swimming pools in the Western Cape

6 TIPS

TO BEING WATER WISE 1

Ensure washing machines or dishwashers have a full load before running them.

Put a plug in the sink and run enough water to wash your cups or plates rather than washing under a running tap.

While waiting for tap water to run hot, collect water in a bottle and keep it in the fridge for drinking water.

Closing the tap when brushing your teeth saves up to 20 litres per month. Use a mug of water for rinsing.

Replace washers: a tap dripping at one drop per second can waste up to 60 litres of water a day.

A living tree is

Reuse bath grey water (bath and shower) on your food garden. Instead of letting the water run into the drain, divert the outlet directly to your garden or a holding tank.

A tomato is

92% water The average adult human body is:

Milk is

90% water

WATER

The average adult human can survive

depending on environmental conditions and personal health

WATER FOOTPRINT A water footprint is defined as the total volume of fresh water that is used, directly or indirectly, to produce a product.

WATER

1 drop = 100 litres

2 500

for one cotton LITRES shirt (250g)

LITRES 15 000 for 1kg of beef

It takes:

130

LITRES

to produce one cup of coffee (250ml)

8 000 LITRES

for one pair of jeans (800g)

26 LITRES for 1 litre of bottled water

WORDS ON WATER Many common phrases in everyday language have maritime origins. “By and large” in ordinary speech refers to a state where all things are considered. In nautical terms however “by” means into the wind, while “large” means with

the wind. So sailors use “by and large” to indicate all possible situations; “the ship handles well both by and large”. The fabled and legendary Nyaminyami refers to the spirit of the Zambezi and evokes

widespread Southern is thAmanzi ei African wor siXhosa d legends wat for er. of strange, often snake-like creatures that live in rivers, pools and waterfalls.

June 2013

about

CityViews

town

At home The Water Services Act determines that every person is entitled to receive a minimum of 25 litres of water per day, from a tap within 200m of their household There are 7 381 taps in informal settlements and an estimate of 184 525 households; this means there is one tap for every 25 households (June 2012 figures)

Private gardens can consume up to 50% of all water used in urban areas: watering with a hose for an hour uses about 600 litres. This is drinkable water that is expensive to treat, and alternative sources need to be considered, such as boreholes and well points, rainwater harvesting and reusing grey water

Install a solar-water heating system on your roof to heat water. (Eskom uses about 1.35 litres of water per kWh of electricity produced. Saving electricity also saves water.) Eskom also gives consumers who install a solar-water heater a rebate. Ensure that your supplier is registered with Eskom before you make the purchase For queries visit www.eskomidm.co.za/residential or call Eskom IDM customer help desk on 011 800 4744 or email dsmhelpdesk@eskom.co.za

SOURCES

In the office It takes

10 litres of water

48%

In a normal office building, of all water is used by the air-conditioning system

to produce one A4 sheet of paper THINK BEFORE YOU PRINT

A 400-ton water-cooled chiller operating 30% of the year requires almost

7.1-million litres of water just to replace evaporation

ww w. ca pe tow n.g ov.za /e n/ Ke ep Sa vin gWate r/P ag Watersavingtips.a es / spx Diarrhoea: Why children are still dying and what done. UNICEF, WH can be O 2009 water.org/water-c risis/water-facts/w ater/ Joint Monitoring Programme (JMP) for Water Supply Sanitation. 2012 and . Progress on Sa nitation and Dr Water, 2012 Upda inkingte by WHO/UNICE F. Census 2011: Ce nsus in brief. Pr etoria: Statistics Africa. 2012. ISBN South 9780621413885 Smart Living Hand book, City of Cape Town

In your city Cape Town receives

554.8mm of rainfall per annum, with June, July and August being the wettest months

The water for the city is supplied by five regional dams: 1 Steenbras Upper and Lower 2 Theewaterskloof 3 Wemmershoek 4 Berg River

According to general scientific consensus, at the current rate of climate change, the sea levels around Cape Town could rise by

76cm by 2100

5 Voëlvlei

In the Western Cape More than

50% of South Africa’s water comes from only 14% of our rivers, situated mainly along the eastern escarpment

The Breede, Berg and Olifants rivers are the major rivers of the Western Cape province

8 500 species

There are currently of sea plants in the world and more are being discovered every day

10%

of the world’s sea plant species are found only off the Southern African coastline

75.1%

In the Western Cape, of households have piped tap water inside the home

13.3% have piped water on their property 10.7% receive piped water at a

community tap

0.9% have no access to piped water

Worldwide Water covers approximately 70% of Earth’s surface. Less than 3% of this water is fresh, only 1% is available for drinking, and the other 2% is frozen in ice caps In Africa,

345-million people

don’t have access to clean drinking water

It is estimated that, by 2025, more than 60% of the world’s population will be living in water-stressed areas that are vulnerable to water shortages. Currently, one ﬁfth or 1.2-billion people live in water-stressed areas.

Every 21 seconds

a child dies from a water-related illness. Every 8 June the importance of the oceans for human life is celebrated on

WORLD OCEANS DAY

Every year on 25 June,

the Day of the Seafarer

recognises the invaluable contribution sailors make to international trade and the world economy, often at great cost to themselves and their families On 19 November each year,

World Toilet Day highlights the importance of toilets and each individual’s right to a hygienic sanitary environment

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3 CANALS

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Square EE rg Blvd t Somerset Bay BR Bu Dor en ger ch Bus service p n Green r No a u Fo NG r am P h rm Ke G un Point ep rli C Bl LO tai a an n Cape Town oe t pe s P s Park mo w nb die m n e h FERRY TO ROBBEN ISLAND m lea Railway r Dr re Ne rg ya rg Grand Parade NG Sac eero u e Station Br eo gt Bu RD ling K LO L ra coSea Point CH .G OP t g A Greenmarket urt Church BEA O S n Or Point HELEN SUZMAN BLVD Green D L N Civic Centre Square ti e ph Square OO Track n City Hall an and Clinic Bu W Leeu Bu tio TS kloo MAIN De E n ra ite f OR o o g E i Be CLOCK TOWER P p L ns R Company’s r ur t rra enningto Hu o e B STR B B in h CC Garden en ng During the 17th century, Cape gu ge ad City Library rc AN al m e Avondale en ar l rm ed Pe EIN A Dis ia ry hBu Le D P K l a ots A it D r il e C Leicester M Ca M on Town was known as Little Sydney an pPp L lb n AR uth Castle of t Pa w loe lie er dt Hi ris AIN m No mo ck n e o e m Antrim o G a r tu S LI Good Hope lls that rm re r k ry N St br Grand Parade Dysart c y N Amsterdam due to the canals e reesland B B a s t a i NG Croxteth CT Central n de oo ru ar O l sb Do B Ke Police Station na s ag B SP Lra ns k im ye Torbay gr rn town. Roads ck criss-crosseduthe w Church NLO’ O Gr END Or sid ick en H Braeside t p Square Romney i L Haytor O W e Keizersgracht ein n Co City Hall Camissa, which means “place of ix Bhoan Gi like Buitengracht, oo Bu Leeu ste Be io t .J Bu SIR LO m l T r m k d u G Sollum at c loof y rey S sid Cheviot m qu M ite kh ou or ich tle waters”, sweet is the Khoi name s er ade D and Heerengracht were all once us p h R e a e n lc r n g i t Company’s t r n a W o n v Mu m t or sin Hi HIG s e e ci OE a eu o Harrington ea B C Modena o h a d l C H Garden m Ca ls Dutch t LEVEL word for o a City Library ge m l ckarea of land fed by freshfor the Square LA canalsB(the old an r er Tho Rh le e RPar ell l IN A Bla lb ry Le rnh Kort do D ND DA ee e ma e ubert Jo d Milita Ca LE lb lie ill Om water streams originating on TableA n which are now dne Hae Rh P oncanal is gracht), e evis e r RL N B rtu isb d ri Ocean V br ine St Ben iew e k ro IN eBrr B llsid BCa a y s t a Mountain. It was these sources CT Central c r underground. p n l n ad D o u e s un ok e G l r k B u S e c t d b r d e Police r Station o ’ ur r D ad Roos d sw V lbe Springbok so unr N Mo ns te ls r ckon that first led torythe establishment am er A Pa n i p e H ob C n c p B i a s d U k er s O W C e te in C t J e V E Bo Gi HELBEe Nre tra oo om ato ofUpa refreshment station here by W Ba lm T. dCs W uq ck dSe U G Gre nd n pe eld m M ou w hide ilk lyn ys urey S R rR Up er Oce us ie17th Do ham ZM ry eps in rH n the Dutch century. V a u t A ci a O hin in the p r e t Harrington d n s o rm D um n Vie ills al N w on E an t er U u N e r e e w Square LA o Be anezer i e c g R Over time these streams were c n B CPUT b d O ion he ben i lle Ca Aoll N d E br Kni ed Today a canal once again m ry D O f Ca m Me LD hfield dammed, canalised and fiCanally ru p e Bo ng ardif rrim mb D C r E r I eg ig an re links the Central City with the n U y et ck ie TFWa H nt piped underground using 200m of ur enn nio Gly do nz Dun de Cu ou rb ert Roo B DA canRS HA nde n nn m ke ad t Waterfront, e lb which can y V&A te M c r r a t d e E P n t i n I v L p e C lead pipes that Simon van der Stel is Do M l hek W ille or Up Klo rs We ge Ca VILL an en of City ve Vr sle Va be onofone Re explored DE de Eato tz r y p ed Av procured from the Dutch East India l W n ko e Gly mit e S u i le l Up y nn d kinDe e Sightseeing’s Dehop-on hopur Company in 1707. Today, the majority Sch Lid pe Ke zie Le S so rw Dr ooncott rU er lvi M Ni ed en n r en you offN cruises, while Co n ge alaenjoy der Alfr Mck co nio we apie d W d nst of Cape Town’s residents have no ill i t N C e r n l ew am itut b y Kin n D mbley po rry H m ur spectacular views of Table ion a Mill L r u p a g Q M r S idea that below them runs the very D ILL pier C t cIEot d e FW t a St 20 lfr U N wMountain. A Boats leave every T J CO us nzie nio ep end Gly a A reason for the city’s creation. The C t L n e Ro De h ym ck isie H JUTde ur al nn Tui 09h00 and Lodgen tswold minutes tis ity en ent between vil L LA n Ming LIE Jasper l ND Kl W M3odehek EN Svelly rs le Reclaim Camissa project, founded Co We DE WAAL g tonE VIL oo oren an sle Va H Upp Re p lo T D de tz fA C y 17h00, stopping at three points d o l E e n M o i e o yrtlel rM lla St. Quintons fm v v by Caron von Zeil, aims to SIGNAL changeHILL dale E ix in Y k e p e D ill p u North Wharf on Ryn TL Fir De Chia ere Ella along the canal, and cost R30eLyfor Sch ScSquare Ke zie ER ds Pr Van this situation and re-establish the rw oon ott lvi en M eelanta Hu Aa Py en n nstantia and R10 ala ck Ivan for children overN der Coadults tio p Vriende W dw M n t ies em Wind hoe n n d e link between the mountain and sea l il S w b burg ble ad yH po Wloe Mill y dle Quarr M fi ve. r S IL h m t c L De Waal Park by creating green, people-friendly ar ott m S u Hof r f we te A Ra F 511 6000 Rum nda ph vue urban spaces that use this as Bellewater OO021 a a yd LT: Tui old l en Moray Moray Jagersfontein GaJUTLA Lodge iBnairut ni N2 n Cotsw en ER K Jasper E ND rde lph M3 ho tso P ly e P D U E a resource and cultural asset. Cape a vel lom a niUap e Ho www.citysightseeing.co.za/ R s Pier Clo Beneld W e per Rosebank Berkley elMyrtle B St. Quintons Va fm uD Mil Place ev ale Ch Town is home to five rivers and 36 n d s l y e ir ias co canal-cruise R F yr an Prince ini Da V Gl springs that issue from cracks in the adiolus Aa Py Si Ga Thibault Ivan pp Constantia pie gn Vriende nUpland ia t hoe m Square dFounder’s s al bGarden Flower P rock of the mountain a sen itself. Five of the Ch loe t O se Cre a o e o m O s g De Waal Park r R g i g e L f t r H springs originate onum Table Mountain m r u BelvH ofYusu Ludlow one Ra ed be Artscape S ere Gladst rB m Bellevue OOF yd Theatret G and are led down to the storm-drain Moray Moray Jagersfontewine La Pentz R KL en ou ard E r ic o P e st u P R L upelh Vred en ulv e U A r a C le K xa e Y ditch that is visible on the corner of ehoe ndra eoville s l rd Berkle a Rosebank aiak y g e k n h Wy r Pino Lo i C Corner Long and Orange streets Heritage a l Bridal and Rugby roads in Oranjezicht. l d u R e Square ince B Pr Higgo Gle Open daily from 07h00 to 19h00 Bradw Do Gla nA START e ll r services Bus G ve p Ja r ent N Flower ck Trek Tickets for adults and Belmont res cost aR14 ne LDOave Cr e t oC Ex Cape Town Ol HI s igg for children ers nport ai es e t HR8 h Civic m s r d G Railway rn g g c Aco Wo B g e odburn elvede r on Ludlow m HL M be Sum Centre ur Sa Gladeost Station Ja re m a B d e G A a . a r e r G rf T: 021 400 3302 t L r ield L in tree o t N . S r f s t e r ic s A Greenmarket DS Seymou S e Rust pp nee Cairnmou Alexan NA Culv r Square elm Mini Bus Pi VrePdeeho Yeovill dra nt t rd ve Escombe Taf ek e ForInmore Ch Roseb oun Wynga rm information see elb Taxi Rank erry ir chm r arRkdCres S erg a lla idm E n M pageHig8&9 go Rd Be out RE rg TO CLIFTON Lio B u t ra ChesteGlen h dwell B B START rfieldAv en ch e r ur am Glencoe Trek Pe H Ke Belmont ne Ave rli ChuBgl enot h g p i a nm Ex e l D e oe avenpo Hom m t pe HI P w rt s or m GParade o G an r WoodburnNe r y e Grand H t N e me t id LA ln Br Ke . Ja sm ag t Montreal GarfieOldPLinco LO TO CAMPS BAY d r N l S o sfo DS Seymou Church ng Cairn Or HG lm LO Se r mou Inv phnt Fitzherbert M Square ite he Ru nt Es r Taf u u n co p C R e m City Hall o o be a ent seberr gb B Leeu rm elb io n Bu y y ine Marchm ark Cres Sid kloo erg at ite mo f or Rd uth ns ing Company’s rp o e STR Benn to in Chesterfie Garden ld rdC C ge ad City Library Conduit AN Sidmouth fo ale N ar l Glencoe HugeLe ry D do ighPAve ACl lif EI D noli t Milita Ca L be Homele AR n Castle of e P Hi ris r t Good Hope lls S L us k br ah ul t t I Be Br B d a id N i n CT Central oo coln ar m un e G ra Police Station Bu Montreall ra k ’S Lin lds sw rn ck F Go END sid ick HN MH Brid Ser Fitzh erbe rt Ru O W e le Co pe J Bo Gi gb oo Be SIR LOWRY m ntine lm T. ds uq Gyre ck ht m M ou ROA id ys ue S R ic er us Do ham e rH W t s ci O eu Harrington rm o ills a d E t o r m uth l r Square mo L Cond R Be o Sid uit a e f R AN n b if he lle Selkirk De Al Cl ed nd D Om e Bo br ah k ul k e C Be n ry n al nt oc ed Fra t bu de ou dd lber m er M r on er A Pa nt Ca Brid a Upp C le Vr Ea ed to W n e Gly ilk Asp Up y nn i ur ns pe Dr on rU Ni e c n CPUT K o i ir dg o Ca eiz l b y Kin n erg m m ur LD p g rac Dr Ca IE F e Un W i T a z G A n i Cu lyn on nd e R D H o k S t e od c n rt ty e ER n

Stanle y ux

on the

town

rm hA ut So

13 PLATTEKLIP WASH

HARBOUR

an nc Du

Ja ck

6 WATER WELL IN

Founder’s Garden

10 BELOW THE SURFACE TOUR

THE IZIKO SLAVE LODGE

Sa laz ar D. F. M al an

m HE ut s ER EN Ma r GR tin AC HT Pier Place

an nc Du

R Ba ua rth olo Ha me Vma m uD Lo sce ias ui o rs s D achGl Gr ad aam g ne a r

Ever wondered what goes on under the streets? Find out on one of Figure of 8’s tunnel tours. The tour starts at the top of Buitenkant, where you descend into a storm drain, and runs below the city for roughly 2km to the Castle. Along the way you will trace the route that water takes from the Camissa system of Table Mountain as it flows TO the PAARL under city and into the ocean.

ar tin

Sm ut s

MA ND E

Selwy n

Lewin Nelso ELSnON NInv ery Dorset

e re kt Oa

Cav end ish

Cale b Caes ar

Vict oria Walk

Walm er

Teck

Melbo urne

Upper M Upper Ad elaide elbourn e

Keppe l

Eden

Upper Cambri dge Beresfo rd

CH Sussex UR CH

Herc ules Ab erd een Stat ion

Pine

Upper Duke

Chester

Gold ers G reen Nerin a

Cambri dge

Premie r

kson 14 icSEA POINT POOL

Cly de

Open all year round, this Cape Ple in Town institution offers a splash pool, diving pool and Olympic-size swimming pool, all fed by filtered Clar ensea ce water. Tickets cost R17 for adults and R8 for children. T: 021 434 3341

Upper M ountain

Grand Vue

Upper Queen s

Coronat ion

Pe rth

Marsden

Upper M ountain Coven try

Princess

Wo Upper rc Cambri dge este If you want to see the very Cr ambri dge beginnings of theBecity Cape resfoof rd Town, lookPno further than the remie r

Cape Town’s original shoreline can be traced in the names of the roads that used to be at the water’s edge, for instance Waterkant, Strand and Old Marine Drive. During the midthirties the decision was taken to reclaim what is now the Foreshore. The project was completed in 1945.

Hay

Bridge

Lever

Golden Acre shopping centre. During the construction of the mall PTO in 1975, discovered the erworkers th MUIZENBERG ruins of Cape Town’s first reservoir. M3 Built in 1663, the Wagenaar Reservoir served as a fresh-water supply for ships and drew its water from the Versche (Fresh) River, which at that time flowed down the banks of Table Mountain. Today the archaeological find, which is protected behind glass, can be seen from all three levels of the mall.

Woo dlan Mount ai n ds

TO AIR PORT

Queens

High

Coven try Duke

Melbo urne

Upper M Upper Ad elaide elbourn Mil e an Rav ens cra ig

Searle

Keppe l

Coven try U pper D U Upper pper N uke Queen ine s

Grand Vue Chri sti aa n

Searle

9 OLD SHORELINE

VR icato veria nsW craalk ig

Teck

Plum

Pine

Caxton

Queens

Coven try Duke

Queen Kruis Klein Nelson

Gray

Mil an Rav ens cra ig

Pe rth

Uppe Aspeling r Nin e

Russell

8 WAGENAAR

Suss B ex Cale arron CHU b RC H Cav Caes end ar ish Gym pie Cav Ple end in ish Page

S Walmelwyn er

Stat ion

Herc ules

Gym pie Page

Barron

RaveLewin nscr aig Nelso n Inv ery o DorsW o et dlanDo dsrset

Basket Mincing Dormehl

Plum

Caxton

Russell Searle Chapel Philips

Stuckeris

Reform

Draa i

Ch ris ti Ru aan sse ll

Sa int Ma rks

Ba rnh am

ak Pino

Gro ve

Fre es ia No Be o r Al de lla oe do lik na Ag ap an thu s Pin e

Acorn

Ch rist iaa n

Upland

ut elho Kreup

e tre ee etr epper Pin P

n Be

nd la gh i H

Hard er Coronat ion

Chester RESERVOIR IN THE Ch e GOLDEN ACRE Eden ster

He ere

em on e

Ixia

adiolus

Glo uce ste r Cauvin

WOODSTOCK

ge rid mb Ca

nd la Windb urg gh Hi m Aru m a niu ni phi so Del at W

Wo rce ng sa ezter elg g Vo Bl ind e

Marsden

la su as

Peak

Fawley

Kuyper

DE WA AL

Co nst itut ion He ere Ju s Lym tis ing ie ton Ch rist iaa n Pla nta Per tio th n Sa dd le

ge rid mb Ca

Cauvi

This candy-striped lighthouse was the first solidly constructed lighthouse, built in 1824. The beam can be seen from 45km away. Discover more of the history of this Mouille Point architectural icon inside the building, where it is possible to take a self-guided tour. T: 021 449 5171

11 THE OLD MILL IN DEER PARK

Adelaide

DISTRICT SIX

d or

Dorset

Queen Kruis Klein Nelson Muir

Gray

Sidney

TERussell NN AN T

Aspeling

non Te er

NGE

WOODSTOCK

Adelaide

Ru sse ll

Matveld

Russell

Chapel Philips

Stuckeris

Muir

Matveld

Reform

Mo un t

re Go

ht ac gr rs ize Ke

Draa i

ROAD

hoerikwaggobookings@sanparks.org

17 GREEN POINT LIGHTHOUSE

fo8.blogspot.com

The streams that used to run down the slopes of Table Mountain were Castle of Willia m not just used to quench the thirst Good Hope Dickso VICT n Wrig ht y Chapel of people, ORIA CGre Francis lydplants and animals. END e NEW MARKET ALFrom BERT the earliest Cly days of the de Chapel SIR LOWRY 7 WATER WHEEL IN ht Cape ColonyPlthey were also used ROAD icmmah Aspeling WU e in os SIR LOGREEN ornwall the mills that ground to Cpower THE WRY ROA POINT Ro D Ke Selkirk Pont De ize grains like wheat and barley. ac Willia One rgr URBAN PARK m ac ht of the original mills can still be Ca Aspeling VICT Cla Wrig le Barto ht Chapel O Salmon do r e Fr R an n seen in Deer Park, although it was n IA ce cis r The park’s water n Warwfeatures, including Ea ick rl converted to into a cottage during King Hyde Chap the water wheel, are one of the el Edwardian times. According to Aspeling Ummah first initiatives guided by the aims Hard er Caron von Zeil of Reclaim Camissa, of the Reclaim Camissa project. High CPUT Ke Pontac ize ng Gold Petrus Johannes de Wet, the miller TO Afor rgr za IR All the water the park is piped e e P r a O s Gr Searle RT lg Hay ch een t ge Bridge who owned the mill in 1834, was peling from springs thatAsoriginate on Table Vo Bl Nerin Barto ind Salmon n S a e R known he E Mountain. You can see the water Warw as Kerriekruie because Lever Glo Earl i c King k Hy de uce Ch used to grind curry spices for the es wheel in action between 07h00 and ste ter r Princess washerwomen. 18h00 every day. n Selkirk

T: 021 712 7471

CH UR CH

BA RN AR D

Ja n

CH RI ST IA AN

Ci vi c

Basket Mincing Dormehl

NELSON M AN DE

CH RI ST IA AN

D AR EV UL BO

BA RN AR D

G ZO RT HE

Fed by the Platteklip stream, Artscape this well was the only water Theatre N1 for the entire slave source Ha D m V lodge. It was thought m Lo TO PAARLto be BL er ui sc s the source of the smallpox Gr hl LA a a es g dn Ja epidemic of 1713, when a ck er Cr n Ol a washerwoman laundered the Civic ig d M Centre ar clothes of an infected sailor in e N1 in the well. Within weeks, the D Mini Bus V L Taxi Rank 9 B slaves were succumbing to LA the disease at a rate of eight people a day. The epidemic spread to the city and the Grey interior, killing a quarter of the NEW MARKET BERT colonist AL population and 90% OWRY RO of the Khoi population of the AD STR SIR south-western Cape. Cornw all A LOWRY Cr ai g

www.sanparks.co.za/parks/ table_mountain/ht

CH UR CH

ha rf

Named for Sir John Woodhead, the mayor of Cape Town at the time, and one of the ancestors of Woodhead’s Leather situated on Harrington Square, this dam was built in 1870 when Cape Town faced running out of drinking water. It is still possible to hike to the dam today. Woodhead Dam is one of five reservoirs on Table Mountain, the others being Hely-Hutchinson, De Villiers, Alexandria and Victoria.

Cav end ish

ounder’s Garden

For generations, slave washerwomen used the Platteklip stream and the flat rocks along its banks to wash the colony’s dirty laundry. After the abolition of slavery, the washerwomen’s descendents still used the wasplaas to do laundry, using the wash houses that had been built by the city. Each year, on the first day of December, they would also celebrate their freedom with a party at the site. After 1954 the city authorities closed the original wash houses, moving them to Hanover (now Keizersgracht) Street in District Six. Today the original upper wash house is used as tourist accommodation.

Ab erd een

TE YT LE R

ON TABLE MOUNTAIN

Mountain

HOUSES

Ple in

Du nca n

16 WOODHEAD DAM

18 ROBBEN ISLAND

TOUR

As a result of its proximity to Cape Town, and the fact that is still separated from the mainland by water, Robben Island has been used as an asylum, a hospital and, most famously, a prison. Some of South Africa’s most famous figures, from Xhosa prophet-chief Maqana Nxele to Robert Sobukwe and of course Nelson Mandela, have gazed at Table Mountain from across the sea while being held prisoner there. Today the prison is a museum; tours leave by ferry from the Nelson Mandela Gateway in the V&A Waterfront at 09h00, 11h00, 13h00 and 15h00 every day. The tour is 3.5hours long and costs R230 for adults and R120 for children. www.robben-island.org.za

KEEP US POSTED

TO MUIZENBERG

12 MOLTENO RESERVOIR

15 TWO OCEANS AQUARIUM

Built almost 150 years ago, this reservoir used to store the city’s entire water supply. Today it’s a quiet spot with a good view. Look out for the old iron pump known as the Hurling Swaai-Pump, the only surviving hand water pump of the many that were built in 1813 for residents to use.

Visit the I&J Predator Exhibit at 15h00 daily to watch the feeding of the sharks, or take a meander through the extensive fresh-water exhibit. Home to 3 000 sea animals, the aquarium is open 365 days a year from 09h30 until 18h00. Tickets cost R118 for adults, R58 for children over four years old and R92 for children aged 14 to 18 years. Annual passes are also available for R257 for adults. www.aquarium.co.za

Share your favourite water stories and places with us – we know there must be many more stories, locations and artefacts that relate to water than we could cram on this map. Let us know on Facebook or email judith@capetownpartnership.co.za

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CityViews

June 2013

The Long Street Baths A pool with a history

We look beneath the surface to discover the past, present and possible future of one of Cape Town’s most By: Ambre Nicolson Photos: Lisa Burnell beloved institutions.

2013 and something really exciting done with the long mural wall. We must also ensure that the pools can be properly maintained in the future. While they are a municipal amenity, I believe they could become partially self-sustaining. This could be achieved by creating a coffee bar, with TV and WiFi, in the centre space opening and spilling onto the mezzanine balcony above the pool. This could be used by swimmers and spectators, and for events. Furthermore, the addition of a new large room near the back of the building with a large

oughfare, within sight of museums, restaurants, bars, hotels, a church and a mosque. This cosmopolitanism is reflected in the users of the baths, which have always included a crosssection of city residents. This is still true today: the pool and saunas of the Turkish baths are frequented by locals, tourists, business people, pensioners and schoolchildren alike. The baths are open every day between 07h00 and 19h00, with tickets costing R14 for adults and R8 for children. The facilities consist of a 25m pool, a kids’ pool, change rooms and a sun deck. The Turkish baths offer a sauna, steam rooms, a hot room and showers; they are open to women on Monday, Thursday and Saturday from 09h00 to 18h00 and Tuesday from 09h00 to 13h00; and to men on Tuesday from 13h00 to 19h00, Wednesday and Friday from 09h00 to 18h00, and Sunday from 08h00 to 12h00. One hour costs R44 and two to three hours costs R89.

THE COMMUNITY MEMBERS

THE ARCHITECT sen Karinina Ingwer “I first got to know the baths as a swimmer, since I come here to swim every week. Over time I started noticing the signs of wear and tear on the building. Since I am an architect, I decided to look into an overall upgrading and rejuvenation project, including realistic proposals focused on bringing in revenue. After meetings with the Council, I realised nothing would happen without a full set of drawings (which apparently was not available) illustrating proposals, and also a motivational report with photographs as references. So I set out to prepare this myself, showing what the baths could be like if some time and money were invested in them. I also have a keen interest in Middle Eastern architecture (having visited the area often) so I would love to see the Turkish baths restored. Imagine if we created mosaics around the arches in the baths … something authentic to celebrate the fact that, to my knowledge, these are the only public Turkish baths in South Africa. Cape Town is now very much a global city and as such I think the baths should be a world-class facility. As a heritage site, the past must of course be respected, but just think what could be the outcome if the facilities were upgraded, a new colour scheme introduced

For more than a hundred years, the swimming pools at the top of Long Street have provided Central City swimmers with a place to play, relax and perfect their stroke. In the early years, after the facility was built in 1908, the pools were also known as the “slipper baths” because many of the blocks of flats in the area at that time did not have bathrooms, so people would walk over to the baths in their slippers to have a shower. In 1926 the Turkish baths were added, allowing people to escape the drizzle of winter or the howling southeaster of summer for an authentic hammam experience that included a cold plunge pool, hot saunas and a massage. Today, although the Turkish baths no longer enjoy the services of an in-house masseur, they still provide an oasis of peace and quiet in the busy centre of the city. Almost equidistant between mountain and sea, the baths are located at a crossroads at the top of the city’s main entertainment thor-

TV and kitchenette could be used for training life-savers, lectures, a fitness gym, classes and even for kiddies’ pool parties. If all goes forward as we hope, we plan to establish the Friends of the Long Street Baths around September as a support platform for this envisaged project. Lastly, imagine if we tapped some of the piped water from the Camissa line – originally from a Table Mountain source – which runs somewhere in front of the building, to create a fountain outside under the palms. See, there are so many positive possibilities here!”

Norbert Furnon-Roberts

“Cape Town is now very much a global city and as such I think the baths should be a worldclass facility.”

“In 2011 it was Alderman Belinda Walker, when she was still Ward Councillor, who set the ball rolling and motivated me to try and replicate what the Friends of the Sea Point Pavilion had begun to tackle: additional maintenance and upgrading of a unique recreational facility

used by people from all over our city. Helping to turn such a neglected municipal asset into ‘must visit’ destination at the very end of one of the city’s main entertainment nodes was a chance too good to miss. And with a sterling professional such as Karinina Ingwersen involved, how can we fail?”

Bulelwa Makalima-Ngewana “The Long Street Baths have such a firm place in this city’s history and memory. I’d love to see this space get the attention it deserves, to get a new lease of life – so that generations of Capetonians to come can make new memories here.”

June 2013

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THE WORKERS

Sadick Holtman “I have worked at the baths for 28 years now, since 1985. I think my favourite part of the job is seeing the people who come here because it’s such a diverse crowd – children, older people, businessmen and sports people. In the past, a lot of people also came to train here, from sports clubs like the Vikings and teams from UCT. A lot more people came to the Turkish baths when we had a masseuse but even then it was one of Cape Town’s secrets – that there is a full Turkish bath here. I wish more people knew about it.”

Fatima Boraan “Saturdays are the busiest day here at the Turkish baths. That’s when women bring their kids to swim in the pool while they come and find a bit of peace and quiet here. First you change in the cubicles, then you go into the hot room and the sauna and then afterwards you go for a dip in the cold pool. After doing that you can also take a rest in the cubicles and have a sleep. All sorts of women come here, young, old, locals and tourists. I have been working for the Council for 25 years and at the Turkish baths for the last seven. I like it because I get to work with people.”

town

Contact the Long Street Baths on 021 400 3202. To ﬁnd out more about Soundlines, email simonattwell@gmail.com or kim.winter@gmail.com. To learn more about plans for the restoration of the baths, contact Karinina Ingwersen at karinina@ingwe.net. Visit www.radiolab.org, www.snapjudgment.org and www.hearingvoices.com to discover more about the Radiolab, Snap Judgment and Hearing Voices projects.

THE TEACHERbs Allen Stub

“I have been teaching swimming to kids here for 10 years and I have always been happy with the baths. The water quality is great, especially since they upgraded the heating system last year. I think it’s a great resource in the middle of the city – as far as I know

it’s also the only heated indoor pool in the area. Some parts of the interior could do with a bit of work though and I would like to see more kids able to come here. I think it would be a good idea to either scrap or reduce the fee that children pay to come and swim here.”

Moegamat Sahibo “I’ve seen people come here as kids and now the same people are bringing their own children – that’s what happens when you work here for 24 years. I know the regulars, all different kinds of people who often come here every day although they all come at different times – there is the morning crowd and the afternoon crowd … I have seen some things here let me tell you. One time I came into work and when we opened the door we saw a man lying unconscious on the floor. We realised he had fallen through the fibreglass panels in the roof. He was okay. He woke up when the ambulance arrived and said he’d been taking a short cut across the roof, but he did have a bad babelaas.”

S THE STORYTELLER m Winter

THE SWIMMERS

Simon Attwell & Ki

Khanyisa Mankayi

Alex Jongens

“My son Lenny has come to the pool every week for the past couple of years for swimming lessons. What’s great about this pool is that you can come to it in winter as well as summer. It also has a good location, especially for people who live close by. I often see groups of kids come here after school, especially to swim, which I think is a very good thing. I think they have saved their lunch money or something and I think it should be encouraged because it’s such a healthy activity.”

“I’m not a fan of gyms but there are few public swimming pools in town. I am very lucky to live next door to the baths – it’s my neighbour, so I go just as it opens before the crowd. I also really like the combination of doing something routine in a special place since it is a heritage building with a story to tell. Seeing the neglect of the building’s basic structure, like its roof, is upsetting, although the City of Cape Town did recently give the exterior a face lift with a new coat of paint. Another thing that could be improved is to create lanes in the pool. I need lanes; I stray easily!”

“I’m a founding member and manager of the band Freshlyground and Kim Winter is a social anthropologist and SAfm radio producer, so it’s probably no surprise that we love radio in all its forms. Projects like Radiolab, Hearing Voices and NPR’s Snap Judgment are just a few examples of how archival material, music, sound manipulation and a fascination with the human condition can be combined to tell stories that entertain, educate and feed the imagination. Radio is still magic. The wealth of characters and stories in South Africa has pushed us to experiment and begin producing and curating what we hope to be quality, considered audio content. We’re calling it Soundlines. It’s a mobile recording and production company that focuses on radio documentary content. One of our projects is titled A City in Sound, which involves us creating a series of character-driven audio documentaries with a focus on showcasing historical places of interest within Cape Town. The idea is to create a body of work

that serves to give historical and personal context to some of our city’s most popular and intriguing places. This would also be an opportunity to highlight some of our city’s lesser-known spots and stories for both tourists and locals. The pilot episode is on the Long Street Baths. We’re focusing on the history of the baths as seen through the eyes of various individuals associated with the space. We have collected stories from staff members

who have worked there for over 20 years, from masseurs and from architects who have a passion for its design. The baths were built in 1908, when the original water source came straight from the mountain, heated by huge hand-stoked coal burners. It’s also haunted. We hope the pieces will give depth to the experience of Cape Town, and create an interface where past, present and future culminate through sound and stories.”

“The baths were built in 1908, when the original water source came straight from the mountain, heated by huge hand-stoked coal burners.”

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CityViews

June 2013

Sailors, sugar girls

and the storyteller

Henry Trotter, academic, author and port culture expert, tells us why Cape Town’s maritime culture matters … and how he once spent 150 nights researching portside prostitution in Cape Town’s dockside bars. By: Ambre Nicolson

Henry on the bow of the P&O Nedlloyd’s City of Cape Town anchored in Table Bay and awaiting a berth in the port after its voyage from London

You were born in the United States, you now live in Cape Town and in between you sailed the seven seas. Tell us your story. My dad was in the navy and I was born on a naval base on the Atlantic. We moved around a lot, spending a couple of years in Jakarta, Indonesia, then finally settling near Los Angeles, where the Pacific became my ocean. In our house, my dad had plaques from the ports he’d visited, which made me feel connected to all these places with their exotic-sounding names like Okinawa, Hawaii, Guam. In 1994 I studied for a year at the University of Zimbabwe, and from there I decided to backpack around Africa. I ended up travelling for three years, visiting 17 countries on the continent. Towards the end of the trip, I came to Cape Town for six months. The first day here I walked into a restaurant at the Waterfront, looking for a job, and I saw a beautiful woman CV

“The idea that water can be both a medium and a barrier fascinates me. Part of my research involves making a distinction between seaand land-based culture and heritage.” Henry Trotter

who was working there. We started dating pretty soon after that, but six months later my visa expired and I left to travel in West Africa, never knowing if I’d ever see my Cape Town meisie again. In 1999 I went to Yale in the African Studies Programme, where I got a Rotary scholarship to South Africa. When I came back, Marjorie and I started dating again and we married in 2005. CV When you returned to Cape Town you lived with a couple in Bonteheuwel. How did that happen? I was writing my thesis on the effect of forced removals on coloured people’s memory and identity, and it made sense that I get to know a community like the one in Bonteheuwel, many of whom had once lived in District Six. It was at this point that I got to know a different side of Cape Town, as a city linked to seafaring. The couple I lived with, Jones and Charlotte, told me stories about Cape Town’s dockside world. Jones was a sailor, Charlotte’s aunt was the madam of a brothel in the Waterkant area frequented by sailors. Their stories fascinated me and led to me studying South African port culture since World War II. CV You once sailed from Los Angeles to Cape Town. What was it like to be a sailor yourself? In 2003, to understand the lives of cargo ship sailors, I

sailed on a container ship going from Los Angeles to San Francisco, across the Pacific to Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Singapore, through the Straits of Sumatra to Sri Lanka, then through the Gulf of Aden, the Suez Canal and the Mediterranean Sea, rounding the Iberian Peninsula to Le Havre, France. From there I crossed the English Channel on a ferry and boarded an English vessel sailing from London to Cape Town. I spent two months at sea and visited 14 ports – it was an adventure! CV How did you come to write a book about portside prostitution in South Africa? In 2005, I started to research port culture more intensively. I had put off researching prostitution because frankly I found it terrifying, but eventually I plucked up the courage to start interviewing people. I went to The Mission to Seafarers, a recreational centre for sailors in Durban and Cape Town, and I went with the sailors to dockside bars. That first night I remember sitting in the bar with my heart pounding, wondering what I had gotten myself into. I ended up spending 150 nights in the city’s bars, but it took a lot to convince the women that I was there doing research. They certainly didn’t think themselves worthy of academic study … they found that idea ridiculous. This research became the

basis of my book, Sugar Girls & Seamen. I called the prostitutes “sugar girls” after the suikerhuisies (brothels) in former District Six. As I explain on my website, these women work at one of the busiest cultural intersections in the world and, through their interactions with foreign seamen, they share their cultures, ideas, languages, styles, goods, currencies, genes and diseases. Many learn the seamen’s tongues, develop relationships with them, have their babies and become entangled in vast webs of connection. In many ways, these South African mermaids are the unsung sirens of globalisation. CV How has port culture changed in the last 40 years? Traditionally, ports were the sites where cultures met and mingled, but in the 1970s this changed. There are many reasons, but the most important was the containerisation of cargo. Instead of goods being packed and unpacked by human hands, huge

Henry’s 2003 journey

containers that needed cranes and much longer piers became the norm. Containerisation greatly sped up the process, and hundreds of tons of cargo could be loaded onto ships within a matter of hours. This also means that sailors now spend much less time in port. CV Why is Cape Town’s maritime legacy important? The idea that water can be both a medium and a barrier fascinates me. Part of my research involves making a distinction between sea- and land-based culture and heritage. For instance, due to the constant presence of maritime transients in Cape Town’s history, dockside residents have tended to be relatively open to overseas cultures and the potential of social, physical and financial exchange with them. An organic workingclass cosmopolitanism long characterised this city, which was part of a global dockland archipelago, connected to multiple ports in the Atlantic and Indian Ocean basins. This stands

in contrast to the history of South Africa’s upcountry “landlubbers” who have shown a more conservative approach to cultural exchange, focusing more on territorial control and group boundary maintenance. Due to their varying geographical and ecological circumstances, docksiders have traditionally seen the world through their maritime networks whereas landlubbers have seen it through their possession of land. This is a rough division, of course, but viewing South African history through this lens – rather than, say, race, religion or language – offers new possibilities in understanding this beautiful city and this wonderful country.

Read more about Henry’s book at www. sugargirlsandseamen. com or buy the book on www.kalahari.com. Discover more about Cape Town’s maritime history at the Iziko Maritime Museum. For more information call 021 405 2880.

June 2013

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CityViews

town

Of pirates

Photo: Lisa Burnell

and paddle boards

Lecturer Raimundo Afonson demonstrates the technique of fibreglass lamination used to construct the dinghies of Whisper Boat Building Academy

Learning the ropes In sign language, the sign for “boat” is two hands touching at the fingertips creating the bow of a boat, simulating the motion of it cutting through the waves. At the Whisper Boat Building Academy, students and staff had to develop other signs – ones that didn’t exist in the sign vocabulary – for the materials and techniques that deaf and hearing-impaired youth are using to build hand-laid By: Alma Viviers fibreglass row and sailing boats.

n the roaring boat-building trade in South Africa in 2004, Peter Jacops saw an opportunity to equip deaf and hearing-impaired youth with the knowledge and skill to become professional boat builders. And so the Whisper Boat Building Academy was born, at the Noluthando School for the Deaf in Khayelitsha. In 2011, funding from the Manufacturing, Engineering and Related Services Education and Training Authority (merSETA) allowed the academy to move to an independent workshop premises in Epping. Sailing enthusiast and retired fibreglass sales representative Mike Harvey, who heads up the academy, explains why he got involved: “This is a wonderful opportunity for me to use my experience to give something back, particularly to people who are often ostracised in their community because of their disability.” The fully funded course is presented twice a year, with 15 students undergoing a six-month training course; this includes an eight-week theoretical curriculum at Plastics SA and various practical projects. The ultimate test of skill is building the dinghies for which the academy has become known. One student is 26-year-old Richard Geja, who had no occupation or job prospects before starting the training and who is now looking forward to graduating from the academy: “I learnt about the academy from the Society for the Deaf, applied and got accepted,” he signs. “I’m so happy to be here; before I was just

sitting at home and now I am learning to build boats.” Mike’s main concern is to find employment opportunities for the graduates: “One of the biggest challenges is the expectation that we will find job placements for all of the students. We’ve broadened the scope of the course in the hope that students could apply their skills in composite industry whether it is boat building, swimming-pool manufacturing, canopies or any of the many other fibreglass-related products.”

From ambulance boats in central Africa and fast interceptor boats in Namibia, to sea rescue boats in Turkey and inflatable paddle boards in Canada, designs from Cape Town-based naval architects KND are making waves across the globe. City Views talks to chief executive and head designer Kobus Potgieter. By: Alma Viviers CV Your work takes you across the globe; why are you based in Cape Town? I think Cape Town is still a central hub on the African continent and a good meeting place for people. Many of our clients like to travel here because it is a beautiful city and they combine business and leisure. The one thing that keeps me in Cape Town is the interesting places that open up and the creativity of people. Across the road, a guy is opening up a high-end custom motorbike-building workshop with a coffee shop. The Central City is such a hotbed for design that it is the right place for us to be.

What is currently on the drawing board? With the increase in the threat of piracy, many of our projects are for military and rescue purposes. We’ve just designed and are busy building 10 new boats for the Namibian navy. The boats are designed as fast interceptors that will help them protect their coastline, specifically against illegal fish trawlCV

ing. The boats are being constructed right here in Cape Town by Veecraft. One of the more exciting projects that we’re working on is a “ghost ship” – a completely unmanned boat. The boat has been designed for surveillance and oceanography surveying purposes. We collaborated with software specialists S3Tel who have developed the advanced technology to make unmanned craft possible – our business is all about setting up the right partnerships and alliances. CV How many of the boats you design are constructed in Cape Town? Only about 10%. This is partly due to the fact that builders can no longer launch boats in the harbour. You can launch smaller boats of up to 10 metres from the Yacht Club but nothing bigger, forcing builders to move their operations to places like Walvis Bay. CV KND is also making a name for itself as a paddle-board designer. Tell us more. The first paddle board that we designed for Coreban was a flatwater racing board, which managed to smash the then record by 10 seconds. Subsequently we developed a whole range for Coreban that went into production earlier this year. More excitingly we designed an inflatable paddle board for the international adventure racer Bear Grylls. His board is currently being launched at all the world expos and will become commercially available later this year.

KND Naval Architects 61 Shortmarket Street T: 021 424 4852 www.navaldesign.co.za One of the ambulance boats designed by KND

If you are deaf or hearing impaired, 18 years or older and able to sign, then you qualify to apply to do the course at Whisper Boat Building Academy. The next course starts on 1 July 2013 and the deadline for applications is 15 June. To request an application form or for more information call Mike Harvey on 082 822 5448 or 021 534 9509. All dinghies made are sold to cover the costs of keeping Whisper Boat Building Academy functioning. By investing in one of the boats, you are also investing in the future of the students. T: 087 805 9570 info@wbba.co.za www.wbba.co.za

Photo: Supplied by KND

June 2013

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CityViews

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This is City Views hung out at some of the water features dotted across the Mother City to talk to Capetonians about their unique relationship with water. From favourite watering holes and surf spots to the effect of water on people’s daily lives – here’s what they had to say. Compiled by: Alma Viviers

Photos: Lisa Burnell

Job Sindani, 27 English student

Siphesande Dukwana, 20

“I am from Kinshasa in the DRC and am busy studying English here in Cape Town. My favourite watering hole in the city is Marco’s African Place. I feel at home at Marco’s.”

hospitality graduate “I was born in Durban and moved to Cape Town when I was 17. The sea here and the sea there are so different from each other. The beaches here are nicer and safer, and although I like to swim it is a bit cold, except maybe in False Bay at Monwabisi beach, where it is a bit warmer.”

Photographed at the water feature at 93 Longmarket Street

Liam Boyes-Varley and Corné Grobbelaar animation students “2D animation of water is fairly simple – you just have to get the flowing lines right – but 3D animation where reflections come into play, that is a whole other story.” – Liam “I’m not really into water sports but I have done some wind surfing. I recently went sailing with friends – it was pretty awesome because you get to a different perspective of the city from the water.” – Corné

Photographed at the water feature at 93 Longmarket Street Zarina Nteta, 26 project manager “I started surfing in Senegal five months ago. There was nothing to do and I knew that surfing was something that I would be able to weave into my life here in Cape Town. It has subsequently changed my relationship with the city. Surfing gives me a reason to get out of the city … to meet other people and interact with nature. The ocean is a great connector. Since I’m still a beginner I mostly go to Muizenberg.”

Photographed at the pond in the Company’s Garden

Lawrence Tisani, 46 garden maintenance worker

Jeandire Jacobs, 26

“I’m a media student at the Boston College in Strand Street across from here and we often come here to relax. The water has a real calming effect in busy streets. There should actually be more spots like this in the city.”

“I live in a shack and, when I think of water in Cape Town, I think the quality is no problem, but I have to walk far to a tap. Also, with winter on its way, you can’t help thinking about the rain. It causes big problems for us in the shacks, because it floods our homes.”

Photographed at the water feature on St George’s Mall

Photographed at the Fountain Circle in Adderley Street

media student

THE CYCLE BEGINS:

2 2 WEEKS LATER

PART ONE:

THIS IS MY

STORY of

Wale ST

Please sir?

I still can't find a job and I have no more money

FINALLY, I've arrived in the city of opportunity

Photographed on Waterkant Street

Gi v e where i t makes

Oh, you poor guy

A difference When someone asks you for money, what do you do? Even though your intentions are good, giving handouts actually helps people stay on the street. It’s a vicious cycle.

DIGNITY BASED ON A TRUE STORY

TO BE CONTINUED ...

6 5

I’m not hiring you looking like that!

DO YOU...

You again?

KEEP GIVING HANDOUTS? GO BACK TO FRAME 3 AND REPEAT THE CYCLE.

OR...

YES?

HELP BREAK THE CYCLE?

Give

? SMS ‘DIGNITY’

TO 38088

Check your phone for the link &

SEE HOW YOU CHANGE THE STORY