The New Orleans Advocate Dining Guide - 2018

Page 1

dine

THE NEW ORLEANS ADVOCATE

IAN’S ANSWERS

Quick picks for vexing dining needs page 20

2018 RESTAURANT GUIDE

1

ESSENTIAL

Our critic’s top picks for how New Orleans eats today April 27, 2018


2

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 INTRODUCTION

An ode to an epic food city What makes a restaurant essential? This guide includes 100 answers to that question. To me, being essential means contributing to the joy of living in New Orleans.That can ride on great food alone, or some combination found in the context of place and time, relationships with customers and families and neighborhoods and history. But since we’re talking about food, the bbottom line is, it has to be delicious. With all that in mind, this New Orleans dining guide came out a bit different thann past editions.As usual, the 100 picks collected here cover a broad range of styles and prices. Now, they also include some spots that aren’t really restaurants. It could be the clutch bakery, lifesaving take-out or a time machine of an ice cream parlor, right alongside grand m destination restaurants and the latest from famous-name chefs.This is the way New Orleans eats, and it’s a way to really get innto what it means to live in a great food city. Sometimes we dress up for a fancy meal. Sometimes we eat at our desks or in our cars when the day gets out of hand. It can still be a pleasure if we pick the right place. My challenge to finishing this guide, as always, was cutting back to 100.To get there, I asked myself two basic questions: Would I cross town to visit this spot,

and is it a place I’d bring someone else to show why I love eating in New Orleans? Of course, these decisions are subjective and personal.A restaurant recommendation of any value must be.You’ll certainly disagree on some that are included and wonder why many others were not. That’s because we care about our food, the heritage and people behinnd it, and we’re ready to defend our favoorites.That’s something else that makes New w Orleans a great food city. Onne technical point: I did not include resttaurants that opened in just the last few months, even those that are clearly exciiting additions.That’s because all resttaurants, even the best-led, need time to ssettle in and learn what their customers wannt them to be. Still, you can see a few earlly looks I’ve collected in our dining guidde lists. I hope h this guide reveals to you some new w finds (even if they’re only new to you) y with restaurants that hold up our and reconnects you reputation for great food and good living. In these picks, you’ll hear stories of Old World tradition and new concepts, revivals and reinventions, the fidelity of people with deep roots in this community and the contributions of people who just joined it. All of that feels essential to me.

Follow Ian McNulty on Twitter, @IanMcNultyNOLA.

Dining Guide price key: Average meal per person $ Under $20 | $$ $21-30 | $$$ $31-50 | $$$$ $51-70 | $$$$$ more than $70


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

3

ESSENTIAL

WHAT’S INSIDE 100 W Grand Creole dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Modern American . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 New Orleans modern . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 New Orleans roots, upscale . . . . . . . 12 Neighborhood joints, traditional . . . . 14 Neighborhood joints, modern . . . . . . 16 Latin American . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Mexican . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Korean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Italian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Bakeries/Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Delis/Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Chinese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Japanese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Vietnamese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Po-boys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Indian/Pakistani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Burgers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Barbecue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Cajun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Steakhouses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Modern fusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Music on the menu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Middle Eastern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Seafood, upscale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Seafood, casual (and boiled) . . . . . . 38 Restaurant index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

75$',7,21 $*(' 72 3(5)(&7,21

1

ON THE COVER

ESSENTIAL

Mazemen noodles served as a vegan preparation from Kin, left, and Creole gumbo from the Munch Factory.

ABOUT THE SECTION

WRITER: Ian McNulty, restaurant writer EDITOR: Annette Sisco,features editor DESIGNER: Jay Martin, design director PHOTOS: Ian McNulty, Scott Threlkeld,Veronica Dominach, John McCusker, Matthew Hinton, Eliot Kamenitz, Susan Broadbridge, Sherri Miller, Rusty Costanza and J.T. Blatty


4

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 GRAND CREOLE DINING ARNAUD’S RESTAURANT 813 Bienville St. (504) 523-5433

Arnaud’s marks its 100th anniversary in 2018.The milestone is impressive, but what’s most interesting for visitors today is what has happened around its many interconnected rooms in more recent years.As elegant as an h opera house andd as big as a

steamboat, it’s a bastion of old New Orleans that still keeps an eye on the future.Take some time to soak it in, and make sure that includes a stop at its acclaimed French 75 bar. Have broiled oysters and soufflé potatoes, have garlic-crusted fish and sweetbreads, and end with a flambéed coffee or dessert made on a tableside cart. Dinner daily, brunch Sun.

$$$$$

Mâitre d’ Charles Abbyad prepares café brûlot, a flambéed coffee drink, at Arnaud’s Restaurant.

BRENNAN’S RESTAURANTT 417 Royal St. (504) 525-9711

They don’t build restaurants like Brennan’ss anymore. Fortunately, restaurateur Ralph Brennan decided to resurrect this one. Brennan’s today is a remarkable success storyy, the triumph of a great New N Orleans restaurant brought back from the b brink b by a skillful mix of ttradition and modernity. TThe dining rooms and ccourtyard were revamped aand still carry the grandeur oof their vintage, while the bar iis a destination in its ownn rright. Chef Slade Rushingg bbalances a menu of Frencch CCreole classics, Brennan’ss ssignatures (like bananas FFoster) and dishes that trace race tthe edge of contemporary

The barbecue lobster is one of chef Slade Rushing’s more contemporary dishes at Brennan’s Restaurant. cuisine.“Breakfast at Brennan’s” remains the marquee experience, but dinner here is now a must. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

$$$$$

COMMANDER’S PALACE 1403 Washington Ave. (504) 899-8221

This mansion-turned-culinary landmark has many rooms, enough to house the formalities of luxury dining and also the spirit of fun and innovation

that are just as essential to New Orleans cuisine.Take a tour (even a self-guided one) from the spread of dining rooms, through the enormous kitchen, past the stand-up bar and out to the patio to get a full sense of the big show put on here daily.Take some time with chef Tory McPhail’s alwayschanging menu, which honors house standards while holding a position on the shifting contemporary front lines, too. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner daily, brunch Sat. and Sun.

$$$$$

Roasted quail with chicory and pecans at Commander’s Palace


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 GRAND CREOLE DINING GALATOIRE’S RESTAURANT 205 Bourbon St. (504) 535-2021

History and tradition can keep an old restaurant going, but they won’t necessarily make it feel vital.That takes personality — and personalitiess who want to express their joys and appetites under its roof. This is why dining at Galatoire’ss feels like more than a meal andd becomes a true experience.Thee atmosphere is Old World and the French Creole menu is a classical recitation of the city’s unique flavor.The distinct but conjoined Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak serves a more modern take on local flavors and has a dine-in bar. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun.

$$$$$

RESTAURANT AUGUST

301 Tchoupitoulas St. (504) 299-9777

There’s no restaurant in New Orleans right now combining the originality, execution and deeply rooted, fascinating flavors of August. It has always been a showplace, though under executive chef Todd Pulsinelli it has grown more consistent and even more spectacular. Complex sauces presentations that are sauces,

Broiled pompano shares the plate with lamb chops, combining two popular choices at Galatoire’s Restaurant. artful not for their own sake but for the richness of the dish, omnipresent anchors to New Orleans inspiration, a confident and seasoned staff — this is haute cuisine with soul.This is also, of course, the flagship for John Besh’s company, which has seen turmoil lately.August today shows that sometimes from turmoil can spring greatness. Dinner daily, lunch Fri.

$$$$$

Sauce pools around shrimp ĂŠtouffĂŠe dumplings at Restaurant August.

! !

n

5


6

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MODERN AMERICAN ANGELINE

1032 Chartres St. (504) 308-3106

Angeline holds the high ground for fine dining in the lower French Quarter. It’s a bastion for an upscale, still easygoing meal just a few blocks from the wilds of Decatur and Frenchmen streets. Chef Alex Harrell’s menus are strongly Southern, but not scripted, with an interplay of

Mediterranean flavor and a clear affinity for the seasons. Clams with wild boar sausage, roasted oysters and rabbit wrapped in country ham show a regional rustic side. Angeline itself unfolds through a progression of clean-lined rooms around the hub of a cloistered bar. Dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch Fri.-Sun.

$$$$

Rabbit wrapped in country ham shows the modern Southern flavor of Angeline.

BAYONA

430 Dauphine St. (504) 525-4455

Chef Susan Spicer’s flagship restaurant sets the scene for fine dining with grown-up creature comforts that still don’t feel stuffy.This ancient Creole cottage has a sitting room lounge overlooking the palmshaded patio, and intimate dining rooms with linen, carpet, flowers and forgiving lighting. The kitchen has mastered the daunting task of feeling playful, globe-trotting and perfectly at home in New Orleans all at once. Shrimp and black bean cakes, salmon with choucroute and even the duck and cashew butter sandwich (at lunch) are all fixtures.The wine list is a food pairing paradise. Lunch Wed.-Sat., dinner Mon.Sat.

$$$$

The goat cheese crouton is one of chef Susan Spicer’s modern classic dishes at Bayona.

BOUCHERIE

1506 S. Carrollton Ave. (504) 862-5514

Boucherie has made itself into one of the more consistently interesting eateries in New Orleans by maintaining its Deep South roots and branching out from there. Brisket, boudin balls and bread pudding made from doughnuts remain signatures, as do mid-range prices. But chef Nathanial Zimet and James Denio have

also progressively developed Boucherie into a mini-campus of bistro, smokehouse and private dining venue, showing its fuller potential. More ambitious riffs on regional Southern, Far Eastern and straight-up madeup flavors rotate through the main restaurant menu, while the adjacent Bourree is a butcher shop, beer garden and snack bar rolled into one. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

$$$

Smoked ribs and fresh herbs show the different influences at work at Boucherie.


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

7

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MODERN AMERICAN COMPÈRE LAPIN

CARROLLTON MARKET

535 Tchoupitoulas St. (504) 599-2119

8132 Hampson St. (504) 252-9928

This modern Southern bistro is great, not grand. It’s not just chef-led, but chefmanaged. It’s original but also comprehensible. It’s the contemporary rendition of the kind of restaurant New Orleans has always flocked to, and chef Jason Goodenough is now hitting his stride.The standout fried oysters napped with bearnaise, the hamachi crudo, the crusty-seared red snapper and the Creole cream cheese cavatelli show the work of creative eyes and precise hands in the kitchen.The crucial third factor is the way the cooking here gratifies, and that comes from something closer to the restaurant’s heart. Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Thu. and a d Fri.,, bbrunch u c Sat. Sat aandd Sun. Su

$$$$

Great cooking can tell a story, and Compère Lapin adds a refreshingly original one to the New Orleans narrative. It starts in the Caribbean, where chef Nina Compton has St. Lucian roots. It folds in modern Italian and French styles.And it thrives as a standout in the busy Tuna piccata is served with fresh pasta and crabmeat at Cavan. though modern Southern and CAVAN regional Louisiana ideas. It 3607 Magazine St. comes across in jerk drum, (504) 509-7655 the double-stack bistro burger, You can feel the imprint of the boudin tater tots and the time all over this stately house specialty in seafood old townhouse, between charcuterie. Around Cavan itself the grand parlors, curving there’s the kind of personality staircase and gracious front and warmth that’s not always porch. Chef Nathan Richard’s a given at stylish modern cuisine, meanwhile, goes more eateries. contemporary. His style is Dinner daily, brunch Fri-Sun. elevated but still shows a jovial j $$$$ $$ affection for big flavors, worked

Warehouse District restaurant scene. Conch croquettes, seafood pepper pot and curried goat tell the tale vividly, while other influences are more foundational, like the way her kitchen makes chile peppers feel like expressions of affection. Fans of craft cocktails will find a new home at its bar. Dinner daily, lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. and Sun.

$$$$

Compère Lapin’s hamachi with melon and nasturtiums

-RVHSKLQH (VWHOOH

The house-made tagliatelle at Carrollton Market restaurant.


8

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MODERN AMERICAN HERBSAINT

701 St. Charles Ave. (504) 524-4114

Vegetable cruditĂŠ with fresh cheese and hazelnut makes for a seasonal starter at Coquette.

COQUETTE

2800 Magazine St. (504) 324-2150

Here’s a restaurant that makes the cutting edge actually feel comfortable. Co-chefs Kristin Essig and Michael Stoltzfus serve a cuisine that is contemporary and artful, sometimes conceptual and always changing. It invites you to experiment and makes that

invitation appealing, trustworthy. The feel throughout is confident rather than cocky, inquisitive rather than provocative. Wherever the cooking goes, the old townhouse setting seems grounded. Coquette has one of the best dining bars in town to drop in and see what’s new. Dinner daily, brunch Sat. and Sun.

$$$$

. ) # 6'%) .9 639 %) 8 .' )/

CConsistency is a virtue at reestaurants, but what does it aactually look like? Herbsaintt hhas been answering that foor nearly 20 years. Donald LLink’s first restaurant has bbeen consistent through tim me, sserving a mix of Louisiana, FFrench and Italian that feelss liike a natural part of the llocal landscape now.And it is consistent across the menu. Provided you like the ingredients chef de cuisine Rebecca Wilcomb is using, you can order anything from m her menu with confidence in the result. More polished than boundary-pushing, it has room for gumbo and ceviche, a house version of spaghetti carbonara and crispy goat with a Middle Eastern edge. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner Mon.Sat.

$$$$

MERIL

424 Girod St. (504) 526-3745

A meal at Meril can feel like taking a tasting tour of a modern food hall without leaving your table, or even the bar.The mostly small plates

Egg oozes over spaghetti carbonara at Donald Link’s downtown restaurant Herbsaint. menu draws from source material as far-flung as a Spanish tapas bar, a Japanese izakaya and a Louisiana fishing camp.What makes it work is the curatorial eye of chef Will Avelar, and the structure of this Emeril Lagasse operation that sets a stylish stage and keeps

the bustling room rolling.The drinks list is especially deep for a restaurant so casual, and individual dishes are surprisingly affordable for any restaurant under a celebrity chef’s umbrella. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$$

' // ' + 6 ' / ) / 9 #6./ 9 4-( 3+ 1-( ( '' ' 3 / .%)&/ ) / 9 3#.+6"# .% 9 5 +6./ / , - .&'%)" %) %(+/ / 4,50 /-' ) 7 )6 :!$*! $ 14

Customers share flatbreads from the wood-burning oven at Meril, an Emeril Lagasse restaurant with a popular happy hour.


The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

100

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

MODERN AMERICAN

PALADAR 511 1 511 Marigny St. (504) 509-6782

House-made pastas, composed salads, lush crudo, char-pocked pizza and a thick pork chop off the t grill — these are the callingg cards for this contemporarry, casual restaurant influenceed by equal parts California and Italy. In the midst of thhe Marigny, it feels modern annd stylish, with its wide-open kitchen, soaring, refurbisheed industrial space and mix oof booths, communal tables and dining bar.The flavors here speak to a more timeehonored approach, thoughh. If you miss Mariza, its now-closed peer in the Byw water, Paladar 511 can fill the same ame role. Dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sat. and Sun.

$$$

SYLVAIN

625 Chartres St. (504) 265-8123

The front room looks like a saloon — close, dark, convivial. The courtyard is a postcard vignette of old New Orleans, textured, storied, loose.And overall Sylvain feels like a true French Quarter find. It’s a casual gastropub for smart smart, accessible

Grilled sausage with vegetables is a dish of straightforward flavors at Paladar 511. cooking and mid-range prices, just off Jackson Square.The kitchen, led since February by Ben McCauley, intersperses the burger, the pan-fried pork with grits and antipasti plates with stuffed banana peppers, shrimp and clams in broth and a benchmark-setting pappardelle Bolognese. Lunch Fri. and Sat., dinner nightly, brunch Sun.

$$$

Shrimp salad with fresh herbs and green goddess dressing at Sylvain.

n

9


10

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEW ORLEANS MODERN ATCHAFALAYA A 901 Louisiana Ave. (504) 891-9626

Atchafalaya blends the soul of a casual, anytime restaurantt with the spirit of a modern chef-driven bistro.That can be a tricky balance but it feels natural in this conviviall spot, under its canopy of livee oaks down Louisiana Avenuee. For the past year, chef Jacobb Cureton has been charting Atchafalaya’s modern Creolee cuisine a little farther down the Gulf Coast. His dishes ruun from contemporary high stylle (a particularly intricate crudoo) to rustic roots (sweet potato bread pudding).The rollickinng brunch brings a bloody maryy bar and bands drawn from tthe city’s club circuit. Dinner nightly, brunch Thu.Mon.

$$$$

Tuna in lettuce cups at Emeril’s Restaurant is a longstanding first course.

The black drum jubilee at Atchafalaya restaurant offers a bounty of local seafood and its own colorful backstory.

DTB

8201 Oak St. (504) 518-6889

Chef Carl Schaubhut’s menu is unmistakably rooted in bayou country Louisiana. But while much of the terminology is familiar, DTB (for “down the bayou”) does not follow a predictable path. Cajun staples are stripped ped down to

Sugar cane pots de creme has apple, fried blueberries and pecan tuile at DTB.

their elements and recast in a new light, sometimes with more global flavors folded in. That’s how boudin balls became smoky vegan croquettes and the red snapper found a lighter, almost Middle Eastern aspect. Duck confit, broiled oyster gratin and gumbo are more traditional (by comparison, at least).The setting is upscale casual, with a stylishly easygoing ambiance that fits the revived “Main Street” feel along this stretch of Oak Street. Dinner daily, brunch Fri.-Sun.

$$$

EMERIL’S RESTAURANT

800 Tchoupitoulas St. ((504)) 528-9393

Emeril’s has a way of delivering on the promise of fine dining while reminding you that fun should be part of that equation. This is the restaurant that made Emeril Lagasse’s name, and it still carries on the spirit of the “new New Orleans cooking” that made him famous.This is a bucket list destination, with visiting celebrities often in the house, but also neighborhood crowds at the bar who know everyone.While Lagasse provides the star power, it’s the follow-through of a polished flagship restaurant crew that keeps the show rolling.And, of course, there’s always that banana cream pie. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner daily.

$$$$$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

11

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEW ORLEANS MODERN menus don’t change as much m ass they once did, perhaps beecause regulars won’t abide loosing their favorite dish to the rootation. Crabmeat beignets, riccotta dumplings, shellfish stew annd panéed rabbit all spell ouut this restaurant’s name to thhose who know.The wine list is exxcellent. Luunch Tue.-Sat., dinner daily, brrunch Sun.

$$$$$ $ Panéed rabbit with spaetzle and turnip puree at La Petite Grocery.

LA PETITE GROCERY

4238 Magazine St. (504) 891-3377

This is one of those indisputably upscale New Orleans restaurants that still feels like a neighborhood spot. It must

have something to do with the contours of the old grocery, with room for romantic two-tops by the front windows and deep, red banquettes for those times when meals are gatherings. Certainly, it comes from the bar, one of Uptown’s great dining bars. Chef Justin Devillier‘s

PATOIS

6078 Laurel St. (504) 895-9441

Chef Aaron Burgau’s menu is about Southern flavors cut loose from any Southern shtick and twinned instead with modern bistro aesthetics. Dishes like his almond-crusted fish, gnocchi with mushrooms and grilled lamb ribs with green

Gnocchi with crawfish has been a menu staple at chef Aaron Burgau’s Uptown bistro Patois. tomato relish show a style that’s locally relevant but not a rehash. That matches the understated contemporary design in this one-time barroom well, though to appreciate the social buzz here you do need a tolerance for

close quarters. Come here for a casually romantic dinner, for a laidback Friday lunch way Uptown, or just for a drink with the bar crowd. Lunch Fri., dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun.

$$$$$


12

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEW ORLEANS ROOTS, UPSCALE BRIGTSEN’S S RESTAURAN NT

thinng more impressive than the wine list is the amount of crabmeat this kitchen disppatches. Clancy’s is much younnger than the “old line” Creoole restaurants, but it sharres their DNA, while trading some of their grandeur for a genttly modernized read on w Orleans cuisine.Taking New out-oof-towners here is a real treatt — giving them a sense off discoovering one the locals keepp for thhemselves and giving you an exxcuse to revisit. Lunch Thu. and Fri., dinner Mon..-Sat.

723 Dante St. (504) 861-7610

You don’t need to reinvent Louisiana foodd to make a statement, and you don’t need anny more proof of that thann dinner at Marna and Frank Brigtsen’s quietlyy amazing Riverbend bistro.The flavors are affectionately robust and exude a sense of our region. See the blackened fish and an always fun, never fried seafood platter, or the soft shell crabs with beeautifully burnished brown butteer sauce and luscious cochon de lait crowned by its own cracklin’. Brigtsen’s feels homey and a little old-fashioned.That also feels comforting, a reminder that you’re in the well-seasoned

$$$ $$$ Frank Brigtsen’s soft-shell crab is served with brown butter pecan sauce at his Brigtsen’s Restaurant. hands of pros who have seen a few things come and go. Dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$$$

CLANCY’S RESTAURANT

6100 Annunciation St. (504) 895-1111

The dining room is understated and elegant, the waiters wear tuxedos but are loose with the regulars and the only

DO OOKY CHASE’S R RESTAURANT 2301 Orleans Ave. (504) 821-0535

Dooky Chase’s is an institution, but not one to be admired from afar. In fact, the full picture of this landmark restaurant is only revealed when you take a table and watch New Orleans convene in one of its most hhospitable it bl dining di i g rooms. Ci Civilil

Leah Chase with her signature fried chicken rights history transpired under this roof, and a remarkable collection of African-American art resides here. So does the everyday legacy of Creole cuisine, as directed by the indomitable family matriarch, chef Leah Chase, who still leads the kitchen at 95.The quality of the lunch buffet exceeds normal expectations for that word. Lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Fri.

$$$

2SHQ '$,/< IRU +DSS\ +RXU 'LQQHU 6XQGD\ %UXQFK

)HVW &RPH 6HH 8V 'XULQJ -D]] /RFDWHG -XVW 6WHSV )URP WKH $OJLHUV )HUU\ 7HUPLQDO 'HODURQGH 6WUHHW _

Fried oysters with brie and spinach is a signature dish at Clancy’s Restaurant.


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

13

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEW ORLEANS ROOTS, UPSCALE UPPERLINE RESTAURANT

GABRIELLE

2441 Orleans Ave. (504) 603-2244

Gabrielle opened last fall but dates to the early 1990s. The original version was a top restaurant in pre-Katrina New Orleans. Last year, chefs Mary and Greg Sonnier finally reopened it in a different part of town.The rustic Louisiana flavors are largely the same, right down to the duck, stuffed fish and baked oysters Gabie. The style is straightforward, almost homey compared to most new bistros now coming off the line. It’s a lowkey, refreshingly accessible neighborhood eatery that’s new but already feels well-rooted. Dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$$$

GALLAGHER’S GRILL & COURTYARD

509 Tyler St., Covington (985) 892-9992

Gallagher’s feels like an American steakhouse crossed with the gusto of a Louisiana fishing camp, albeit a nice one, well stocked with quail and scallops scallops. Many of the marquee

1413 Upperline St., (504) 891-9822

Dinner at Upperline is an enveloping experience, from the artwork that surrounds you in the progression of small, busy dining rooms to the familiar, country Louisiana flavors of a menu that has stayed more or less the same for many

years now. Specials are gently contemporary, and they can be excellent. Mostly, though, Upperline serves three-course prix fixe suppers built around the notion of “modern” contemporary Creole that was codified a generation ago. Proprietress JoAnn Clevenger, the host and curator, personifies the hands-on restaurateur. Dinner Wed.-Sun.

$$$$

The barbecue shrimp pie is a signature appetizer at Gabrielle Restaurant. dishes arrive with an aromatic edge of char, like the lamb chops, or a bit of sizzle, like the crabcakes.The proprietor’s Mandeville restaurant Pat Gallagher’s 527 dials into a similar appeal, though this original on the outskirts of Covington still feels more like home. It’s mellow, low-slung and, starting early in the evening, filled with a crowd who

Grilled lemonfish with shrimp is a favorite at Gallagher’s Grill in Covington.

seem to know every inch of the place by heart. Lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$$$$

Shrimp remoulade is made from the 1856 original recipe at Tujague’s Restaurant.

TUJAGUE’S RESTAURANT 823 Decatur St. (504) 525-8676

You can still start with the brisket here, but what’s probably more m important is that you can also start at the bar.Tujague’s, thhe city’s second-oldest reestaurant (behind Antoine’s), haas been gradually revamping, making its once-archival Creole m coooking a bit more modern. Still, many of its old ways persist. m CChicken bonne femme, the best dish in the house, is not on the menu but usually available.And m reed beans and rice in the bar iss a Monday tradition.The bar itsself feels ancient, with a few taables but no stools. It’s one of thhe classic drinking spaces of New Orleans and feels like the N Frrench Quarter’s original corner bar. Luunch and dinner daily, brunch SSat. and Sun.

$$$$$ $

FZWdWÆe 3^iSke Ea_WfZ[`Y 4dWi[`Y


14

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEIGHBORHOOD JOINTS, TRADITIONAL DUNBAR’S CREOLE CUISINE

7834 Earhart Blvd. (504) 509-6287

A bowl of ya-ka-mein at Chef D’z Cafe

CHEF D’Z CAFÉ 424 S. Broad St. (504) 265-8091

Spots like this are what “sense of place” means. Start with the gumbo, the standing order for any Creole soul hole in the wall. Chef D’z is packed with more crab than any edition I can recall.Watch as a red beans and fried chicken lunch special fills half your table with all its side dishes. Get the ya-ka-

mein if you need a boost after a late night or the crab-covered catfish Orleans if you’re living large. Check out the Mardi Gras murals under the low ceilings, and listen to the people around you comparing the food to their own cooking. Get the red velvet cake for dessert.Where else in the world could you be but New Orleans? Breakfast and lunch (till 5 p.m.) Mon.-Fri., lunch Sat.

$

Back before Hurricane Katrina, Celestine Dunbar’s family recipes were a touchstone of downhome Creole soul and her restaurant was a crossroadss. It was out of regular circulation for more than a decade, but her fans never forgot the love, character and flavor of Dunbar’s. Sincee the restaurant reopened lastt spring in a new location in G Gert Town, they have been coursing ng back through.They’re coming for the kitchen sink gumbo, the red beans with fried chicken, the smothered okra and the greens with turkey necks. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

$

The gumbo at Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine

THE ORIGINAL FIORELLAS’ CAFÉ 5325 Franklin Ave. (504) 309-0352

The name Fiorella is known for food because of the little cafe this family once ran near the French Market. Now the same family is cooking in Gentilly. It’s plate lunch Creole Italian, to the tune of fried chicken, some of the best around,

macaroni shells with handmade Italian sausage, shrimp Creole, meatloaf and a stromboli that, in this kitchen, resembles a muffuletta with sliced sausage, pepperoni, raw onions and peppers. It feels like the revival of a classic New Orleans neighborhood standard, now in a new neighborhood. Lunch and early dinner (til 7 p.m.) Mon.-Sat.

$

Spaghetti and meatballs is a straightforward dish based on old family recipes at the Original Fiorellas’ Cafe.


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEIGHBORHOOD JOINTS, TRADITIONAL LIUZZA’S RESTAURANTT & BAR

old-fashioned. Luunch and dinner daily.

$$ $

MR. ED’S OYSTER BAR & FISH HOUSE E

3636 Bienville St. (504) 482-9120

One day, I watched a waitress here pack up a meatball po-boy for travel, with sauce and bread separate. It was headed to Lafayette, to someone who missed it.There is probably someone out there in the world with that sort of craving for every dish on this old-schhool Creole-Italian menu. Liuzza’s goes back. It’s a time capsule of mid-century New Orleans, Mid-City specifically. Onion rings adorn just about every table in the small, pink dining room, and so do icy, bulbous beer mugs. Should the craving strike, I’m here to tell you the massive Frenchuletta freezes well for later use. Lunch Tue.-Sun., dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$

3117 21st St., Metairiee (504) 831-8666 also 1327 St. Charles Avve. 512 Bienville St. 301 N. Carrollton Ave.

Eggplant parmesan with pasta and red gravy is part of the menu at Liuzza’s.

MANDINA’S RESTAURANT 3800 Canal St. (504) 481-9179

Many years ago, when Mandina’s first reopened after a massive post-Katrina rebuild, the first regulars to arrive took their usual spots leaning against its stand-up bar like nothing ever happened. Mandina’s is that kind of place.With 86

Onion rings and an old fashioned start another meal at Mandina’s.

years of history and a huge menu of Creole-Italian flavors and vintage throwback dishes, it simultaneously preserves, passes on and mints new stories from the New Orleans table. If you need one restaurant to show the old neighborhood standard, this is it. Start with an

M Mr. Ed’s is a relatively new reestaurant with an indelibly old sooul, and one that points bacck too traditional New Orleans waays in its abundant seafood, raw oysters and fried chicken.Thee Metairie version was the first, and it’s the best of the bunch. Start at the oyster bar, which is one of the few remaining standup oyster bars around.The oysters cannot possibly be any fresher, coming straight from the shucker’s knife to you.Whenever any errand puts me near

Oysters and beer line the standup oyster bar at Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House. the Lakeside Mall, my mind immediately goes to a mug of beer and a cold dozen here. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$

15


16

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEIGHBORHOOD JOINTS, MODERN THE MUNCH FACTORY

and stacked up to three levvels high.The overthee-top milkshakes are thee size of milk cartons andd are enough to add “deessert destinationâ€? to Freey’s lengthy resumĂŠ. Lunnch and dinner daily..

1901 Sophie Wright Place (504) 324-5372

$ $$

HIGH HAT CAFÉ

4500 Freret St. (504) 754-1336

Barbecue ribs, brisket and fried chicken share a platter at Frey Smoked Meat Co.

FREY SMOKED MEAT CO. 4141 Bienville St. (504) 488-7427

Frey is part of the city’s nowbooming barbecue scene, but it is more rounded than others focused on the smoker and really serves as a modern

version of the neighborhood eatery.The bar is built for whiskey lovers, and local beer lovers too.There’s plenty of smoked meat — brisket and the huge beef ribs. But the other specialties are solid fried chicken, intense and various versions of macaroni and cheese and burgers — fat or thin

Higgh Hat Cafe combiness Creole Cre flavor, to the tune of deep dark gumbo andd barbecue shrimp, with more of a Deep South angle, ngle like catfish with hush puppies and pimento cheese platters. The critical third part of the equation is the way the kitchen and even the bar embrace the fresh and seasonal. Hearty when that feels right, it can also be as light as a watermelon

Pimento cheese oozes over a burger at High Hat Cafe. and crabmeat salad in the summertime.Add the kids menu and you have an anytime cafe that responds closely to modern tastes. Don’t skip the pie. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$

The Munch Factory is the kindd of restaurant that’s suppposed to be everywhere in N New Orleans — the momandd-pop serving old Creole fam mily recipes and putting its own spin on things. In reality, theese are becoming more rarre in the changing local dinning landscape. I’d follow like this around a gumbo g wn. Chef Jordan Ruiz also tow takkes you to backyard family partiess (Uncle Joe’s pasta, the “halftime ribs�), serves up modern foodie munchies (tuna tartar tacos, debris cheese fries) and goes back to the classics (blackened redfish, fines herbs chicken). Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

$$

'HOLFLRXV )UHQFK &XLVLQH LQ WKH +HDUW RI WKH :DUHKRXVH 'LVWULFW &RXUW\DUG 'LQLQJ &RFNWDLOV +DSS\ +RXU 7XHVGD\ ² )ULGD\ 30 Y\RRQH FRP _ *LURG 6W 1HZ 2UOHDQV /$

Oysters Gentilly are topped with caramelized onions over creamed spinach at the Munch Factory.


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 NEIGHBORHOOD JOINTS, MODERN STATION 6

105 Old Hammond Highway (504) 345-2936

The shrimp-stuffed hush puppies are strung along skewers at Rosedale. shrimp corn dogs strung along ROSEDALE skewers; the turtle soup bobs 801 Rosedale Drive with gnocchi-like spinach (504) 309-9595 dumplings; and a rare slab of Susan Spicer’s take on the smoked tuna fills the muffuletta. neighborhood eatery certainly This is comfort food that comes looks the part, built in a ready for wine pairings in an onetime police station down a endearingly rustic, indoortwisty side street. But while the outdoor neighborhood setting. menu starts with local flavors, Lunch and dinner Wed.-Sun., it doesn’t necessarily follow the brunch Sat. and Sun. script. Hush puppies resemble

$$

ESSENTIAL

etc.

S restaurants Six tto watch

These are too new to make this dining guide edition, but they should be on your list.

JACK ROSE 2031 St. Charles Ave., (504) 323-1500 Eclectic and intriguing upscale/casual for the Pontchartrain Hotel. ECHO’S PIZZA 3200 Banks St., (504) 267-3231 Wood-oven pizzas, fresh, rustic small plates, with a feel between stylish and cozy. BANANA BLOSSOM 500 Ninth St., Gretna, (504) 392-7530 Relocated to nicer digs, the Thai food is just as adventurous. NEPHEW’S RISTORANTE 4445 W. Metairie Ave., (504) 533-9998 Chef Frank Catalanotto is back with a menu of distinctive CreoleItalian flavors. BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO 2900 Chartres St., (504) 605-3827 From Nina Compton, chef at Compere Lapin, a new neighborhood bistro. PIECE OF MEAT 3301 Bienville St., (504) 372-2289 Old-school butcher shop meets creative eatery.

Staation 6 is a modern Louuisiana seafood houuse, set in a lakefront neigghborhood that’s synoonymous with the oldfashhioned kind.You could call it chef-led, but across the menu you still see more affecction for the local catch thann a particular chef’s signature. It’s pompano with i curried brown butter, shrimp sizzling in garlicky oil and truly blackened drum, albeit with dashes of Cajun caviar and Champagne in the mix.This booming Bucktown eatery has made a splash by serving smart updates to the flavors that resonate on the local palate. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

$$$

Sauteed American red snapper on Louisiana crawfishroasted corn choux is served at Station 6.

n

17


18

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 LATIN AMERICAN andd also whole fish, chicken, sweeetbreads and chorizo, corrn and carrots and even straawberries paired with cream m for dessert.The mid-century moodern design fits its old Meetairie neighborhood to a T-bone. Dinnner Tue.-Sun.

$$$ $$

CARMO

527 Julia St. (504) 875-4132

Picanha steak is a classic South American cut served at Brasa Churrasqueria in Old Metairie.

BRASA CHURRASQUERIA 2037 Metairie Road

(504) 570-6338

Through the swinging kitchen doors you can catch a glimpse of Brasa’s burning heart.That’s la parrilla, the grill, and you can

taste its influence all across the menu. Brasa has enough beef to qualify as a steakhouse, but it’s more versatile and fills a unique local role as an upscale showcase for South American flavor. La parrilla puts its aromatic mark on steaks,

Carrmo is a casual, colorful, low w-key joint that has also quietly become one of th the city’s most innovative restaurants. Its unifying themee is “tropical,� which doesn’t impply a specific region so much as a fresh, verdant style. Staples from chef Christine Honn’s native Brazil turn up, like the black-eyed pea croquettes. Caribbean-inspired smoked pork and plantain sandwiches and Thai-style fermented tea leaf salads also share the table. The raw bar is masterful with ceviche and tiraditos. Sourcing is pristine, and the omnivorous kitchen is vegan-friendly. Lunch Mon.-Sat., dinner Tue.Sat.

$$

Traditional Peruvian ceviche made with local Gulf fish is a specialty at Carmo.

NORMA’S SWEETS BAKERY 2925 Bienville St. (504) 309-5401; 3221 Georgia Ave., Kenner (504) 467-4309

For the city’s best Cuban sandwich, a box of pastries or meat pies for the next party and for a glimpse of Latino immigrant life in New Orleans today, this grocery store and deli is a must.There’s a small

%

! " "$$

Honduran enchiladas are prepared on flat corn tortillas at Norma’s, a grocery and deli in Mid-City and Kenner.

seating area inside, between the money order counter and a bakery that produces sandwich rolls and Technicolor cakes that are sugary enough to kick any kid’s party into overdrive.The deli is mostly about Central American flavors, with hangoverkilling soups by the quart and pupusas and bargain baleadas hand-formed while you wait. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MEXICAN set s up for a house party. Breakfast, lunch and dinner B Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. T

$$ $

TAQUERIA CHILANGOS

22723 Roosevelt Blvd., Kenner (504) 469-5599

The traditional Mexican menu at El Pavo Real includes tacos on housemade tortillas.

This T side-street taqueria ssurprised many by emerging as cchampion of the inaugural Top TTaco festival in 2017, beating out celebrity chefs and big restaurant groups.That was no

EL PAVO REAL

surprise to its longtime fans, however, who have watched Chilangos grow from a postKatrina food truck to one of the area’s best traditional Mexican restaurants. It’s friendly, consistent, a little ramshackle and real. Beyond tacos, the menu reaches into Mexicanstyle barbecue platters of ribs and chicken, marinated seafood salads and weekend-only specials like the lamb shank with broth and cactus salad. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue.

$$

4401 S. Broad St. (504) 266-2022

Visiting some Mexican restaurants can feel like an excuse to munch chips and drink margaritas, and that can sure be fun. But this mom-andpop in Broadmoor feels more like Mexican home cooking, and it’s more gratifying.The menu runs through tacos, enchiladas, mole poblano, chiles rellenos and breakfast dishes (a good alternative to the wait lists at popular brunch spots). The aesthetic here is low-key, homemade and deeply flavored. Even the bar feels like something

A plate of chilaquiles with steak, eggs and chips makes an all-day brunch dish at Taqueria Chilangos.

KOREAN

LITTLE KOREA BBQ 2240 Magazine St. (504) 821-5006

Traditional Korean dining takes commitment.Yes, you can get a bibimbap and be on your way. But the full experience is a measured, multicourse, partially selfguided meal of table-top grilling, with a banquet worth of sides and garnishes. Littlee Korea is committed, too. From its start in a former fast food joint, it has come into its own at this stylish, casual spot.The flavors still go back to the Park family’s home cooking, which is what makes it compellingg. Dine with a group to get the most out of thee Korean barbecue format. Dinner Wed.-Sun., lunch Wed.-Sat., Mon.

$$

The bibimbap is a classic dish at Little Korea.

n

19


20

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

21

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 IAN McNULTY’S REAL LIFE RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS

what if...

Sometimes we pick a restaurant for a craving; sometimes the ambiance sells it, or maybe it’s just nearby.And sometimes life gives us other criteria.All of these picks are drawn from the 100 spots in this edition of our New Orleans Dining Guide.

... YOU HAVE 10 MINUTES TO EAT LUNCH AND YOU’RE STILL NOT FALLING FOR FAST FOOD: Shawarma on the Go (pg. 37)

The name says it all.The toum sauce seals the deal.

McHardy’s Chicken & Fixin’ (pg. 25)

Get half a fried chicken to go, you might even have leftovers.

... YOU ARE HUNGOVER, AND IT’S BAD: Lilly’s Café (pg. 27)

Spicy shrimp pho, extra vegetables. Done.

Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House (pg. 15)

Stand at the oyster bar and get slurping as the shucker opens them one by one.

Très Bon Cajun Meats (pg. 32)

Boudin links, boudin balls, a little bag of cracklin’, all ready when you walk in.

... YOU JUST WANT TO DINE ALONE (OR CAN’T FIND ANYONE TO JOIN YOU): Carrollton Market (pg. 7)

Parran’s Po-Boys (pg. 28)

Do not underestimate the feel-better potential of sloppy roast beef.

The best seats in the house are at the kitchen dining bar.

... YOUR OUT-OF-TOWN FRIENDS ARE VISITING AND THEY WON’T LEAVE THE QUARTER: Arnaud’s French 75 Bar (pg. 4)

Tell them when they’re done with Bourbon Street, they can find you right around the corner at the French 75 bar.

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse (pg. 33)

Hit the $5 after 5 happy hour (5 p.m. to 7 p.m.) for affordable small plates and old-school cocktails.

Brennan’s Restaurant (pg. 4)

Pop a cork at Champagne happy hour in the courtyard (Mon.-Thu., 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.; Fri. 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.), and toast the bottle sabering ceremony Fridays at 5 p.m.

Dunbar’s Creole Café (pg. 14)

Go for lunch, order the gumbo, just listen to the happiness in the room.

Pascal’s Manale Restaurant (pg. 22)

If the stand-up oyster bar doesn’t impress them, they won’t like New Orleans anyway.

El Pavo Real (pg. 19)

Bao & Noodle (pg. 26)

Mexican breakfast, with homestyle touches and good drinks.

Maypop (pg. 34)

Bywater Bakery (pg. 24)

Pêche Seafood Grill (pg. 38)

The Munch Factory (pg. 16)

Meauxbar (pg. 23)

Get po-boys to go, and eat them under the oak by Bayou St. John.

... YOU’RE ALMOST BROKE BUT YOU STILL WANT TO TREAT YOURSELF TO SOMETHING TASTY:

Paladar 511 (pg. 9)

The raw bar is full service and the spot for oysters and crudo.

Parkway Bakery & Tavern (pg. 28)

... YOU WANT BRUNCH, BUT YOU’RE NOT ABOUT TO WAIT IN LINE FOR BISCUITS AND EGGS:

Caldo to the rescue; the quart-sized soups work wonders. Miss Linda Green’s ya ka mein, every day.

Right by Jackson Square, without a shred of tourist shtick.

Blues and roots bands at weekend brunch extend the club scene to bloody mary hours.

Rosedale (pg. 17)

The dining bar puts you practically in the kitchen.

Sylvain (pg. 9)

Atchafalaya (pg. 10)

Kin (pg. 34)

Norma’s Sweets Bakery (pg. 18)

Pho and lighter dishes for a change of pace.

... YOU’RE TRYING TO SELL SOMEONE ON NEW ORLEANS:

Dim sum brunch on weekends blends traditional and Asian fusion flavors.

Most of the seating is along a counter anyway.

Nine Roses (pg. 27)

Down a side street, off the radar, excellent.

For five bucks, a bowl of dumplings you won’t forget.

Gracious Bakery + Cafe (pg. 24)

The little three-bite tortes can change your day.

Chef D’z Café (pg. 14)

Monday’s red beans and rice is an everyman-a-king spread for cheap.

Creole comfort food for the morning, like debris Benedict, hot-sausage hash browns.

French onion grilled cheese sandwich. It just works.

... YOU WANT TO ESCAPE NEW ORLEANS, JUST FOR A MEAL: Little Chinatown (pg. 26)

Dong Phuong (pg. 27)

Shogun (pg. 26)

It’s in an old Pizza Hut, the specials board Oh, you’re still in New Orleans, but it feels Go to the robata grill room in the back, its is written in Chinese.All good signs. like market day in a Vietnamese town. own little semi-private lair of traditional La Boca (pg. 33) Japanese flavors. Little Korea BBQ (pg. 19) You are in Argentina, drinking malbec, Gather a little group for grill-your-own eating steak, pondering scotch. Korean barbecue.

... YOU’RE BABY-SITTING AND YOU’RE GOING FOR THE AUNT/UNCLE OF THE YEAR AWARD: Angelo Brocato’s Hansen’s Sno-Bliz Ice Cream & (pg. 24) Confectionary (pg. 24) The classic.These kids will Living history, by the scoop.

one day bring their own kids.

Frey Smoked Meat Co. (pg. 16)

Shakes the size of milk cartons will make you a legend.

Willa Jean (pg. 35)

Chocolate chip cookies for the kids and frosé (frozen rosé) for you if they’re getting on your nerves.


22

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 ITALIAN

Charred octopus with watermelon, mango, pickled radish, calabrian chili glaze and mint oil at Avo.

AVO

5908 Magazine St. (504) 509-6550

On the right night,Avo’s atmosphere is enough all in its own.The courtyard, with its retractable roof, flickering candles and old brick, can feel like dining in a town square. It’s a credit to chef Nick Lama that the food still steals the show. It’s by turns homey Sicilian (the meatballs, the cavatelli and lasagna) and contemporary (the artful octopus and crudo).

It ffeels compelling, unnderstated and genuine. Thiis is one of the low-hype, higgh-caliber restaurants thaat make this city’s moodern dining scene so warding. rew Dinnner Mon.-Sat., brunch SSat. t and Sun.

$$$$

MARCELLO’S WINE BAR AND BISTRO 715 St. Charles Ave. (504) 581-6333

This stately spot on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line is centered on upscale Sicilian cuisine and revolves around an oh-so-Italian attitude to wine. Red sauce dishes, roasted fish en brodo and clams with spaghetti lashed with garlic share the billing with grilled artichokes, antipasti and calamari. From an intimate

Shrimp Pepate with garlic and red pepper at Marcello’s Wine Bar and Bistro. bistro setting around the bar, Marcello’s extends to more private areas carved between the wine racks arrayed in back. To order wine, you inspect the inventory yourself and bring a bottle back to your table.The bonus is a surprisingly low mark-up, closer to retail rates than most restaurants. Dinner daily, lunch Mon.-Fri.

$$$$

MOSCA’S RESTAURANT

4137 U.S. 90,Westwego (504) 436-8950

The way some modern

restaurants flog the virtues of “family style” dining, it can feel like another marketing gimmickk. At Mosca’s, it feels like the style was simply transferred from actual family tables to the restaurant. Legendary and unlikely, this roadhouse at the edge of exurbia functions as an extended Italian family supper. Tables fill with oyster pan roast, pasta, sausage with potatoes and great battered metal pans of garlicky rosemary chicken awash in olive oil, with Chianti poured into stubby juice glasses all around. Dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$$

Meals are always family style at Mosca’s, the Creole Italian eatery in Avondale.

y Fresh oysters are shucked at Pascal’s Manale.

PASCAL’S MANALE RESTAURANT 1838 Napoleon Ave. (504) 895-4877

This thoroughly old-fashioned Creole-Italian institution is home to the definitive New Orleans oysster bar. It’s a stand-up oysster bar, so you stand, elbow to elbow, your foot on a rail, sluurping down your dozens as thee shucker opens them one at a ttime, running the bar like the deealer at a card table. It puts thee focus on the oyster and spreads a social bonhomie. It’s not just a meal, it’s a reminder of why life in New Orleans is greeat. In the dining room, the red sauce set pieces, strip steaks and original barbecue shrimp aree hallmarks. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner Moon.-Sat.

$$$$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

23

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 FRENCH MEAUXBAR

CAFE DEGAS

3127 Esplanade Ave. (504) 945-5635

The patio dining room at this French bistro is built around decking, gardens and a tree trunk.Well-dressed couples share charcuterie boards and steak frites and sometimes the tiny bar can feel like an impromptu neighborhood cocktail party.The kitchen’s specials are as contemporary as a the regular menu is classic, witth its quiche, omelets and crab and citrus salads. By keeping the attitude loose, the cooking tight and the ambiance equal parts intimate and idiosyncratic, Café Degas has made itself an upscale neighborhood essential in Mid-City. Lunch Wed.-Sat., dinner Wed.Sun., brunch Sun.

$$$

LILETTE

3637 Magazine St. (504) 895-1636

New Orleans has its timeless restaurants and waves of newer

942 N. Rampart St. (504) 569-9979

Meauxbar M is the modern neighborhood bistro for this reeawakening stretch along the Frrench Quarter/Treme border, where w a new streetcar now roolls. Chef John Bel’s menus are both approachable and original, gracefully accentuating thhe French contours of

modern American cuisine with carpaccio and escargot, classic fish amandine and roasted chicken or the French onion grilled cheese, a soup within a sandwich with remarkably restorative powers. Meauxbar feels intimate, easy-going and darkly romantic, with late hours that accommodate the pace of a French Quarter night. Dinner nightly, brunch Sun.

$$$$

Salad Nicoise with grilled tuna is a classic French flavor at Cafe Degas. eateries.And then there’s the curious case of Lilette, which looks and tastes almost precisely as it did when chef John Harris first opened here in 2001 but also feels in step with the moment. Gnocchi and tortellini are tender, duck confit and roasted chicken are crisp, and the menu simultaneously makes escarole and bone marrow into signature flavors flavors.

Next door, the connected Bouilgny Tavern makes a compelling argument for stretching the night with another round of drinks. Lunch Tue.-Sat., dinner Mon.Sat.

$$$$$

The French onion grilled cheese is soup within a sandwich at Meauxbar.

“THE BEST PLACE TO EAT AUTHENTIC CAJUN FOOD” “HOME OF CHEF MIKE’S FAMOUS SHRIMP & GRITS”

Served all day, everyday!

BOILED AND FRIED SEAFOOD • STEAKS • POBOYS • GUMBO • CHARBROILED OYSTERS • CRAWFISH ETOUFFEE • SHRIMP CREOLE

MONDAY NIGHT “KIDS EAT FREE” TUESDAY NIGHT “50% OFF FOR SENIOR CITIZENS” WEDNESDAY NIGHT “ALL YOU CAN EAT CRAWFISH” THURSDAY NIGHT “STEAK NIGHT” FRIDAY NIGHT “ALL YOU CAN EAT FRIED SHRIMP” SATURDAY NIGHT “ALL YOU CAN EAT CATFISH” BUD LIGHT HAPPY HOUR EVERYDAY 5PM-7PM $1.OO OFF BEER & WINE

*KARAOKE THURSDAY 7PM-10PM** LIVE MUSIC SATURDAY 4PM-8PM* Quenelles of goat cheese creme fraiche with lavender honey is a longstanding dessert at Lilette.

LUNCH · MONDAY - SATURDAY: 11am - 3pm · SUPPER · THURSDAY - SATURDAY: 5 - 9pm OPEN SUNDAYS: 10:30am - til PHONE ORDERS: 985-250-9990 · 64579 Hwy 3081 (Old Hwy 11) · Pearl River, La 70452 WWW.CAJUNMIKE.COM · The Former “Old Mama’s Kitchen”


24

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 BAKERIES/DESSERTS

Angelo Brocato’s in MidCity prepares an array of traditional Italian cookies.

ANGELO BROCATO’S ICE CREAM AND CONFECTIONERY 214 N. Carrollton Ave. (504) 486-1465

Before New Orleans had air conditioning, it had Angelo Brocato’s, a dessert parlor built on traditions its namesake brought direct from Sicily more than a century ago.Today, the

naame Brocato’s signals favorite gelato scoops, traditional hooliday cookies and anytime treeats of tri-color spumoni or haand-rolled cannoli nestled in booxes tied with string. From the poolished brass espresso maker beehind the counter to the little rouund marble table tops, the plaace exudes character. It is a naatural after-dinner destination in its neighborhood and a font of good Sicilian sweets that is treasured across the region. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun.

$

BYWATER BAKERY

3624 Dauphine St. (504) 336-3336

Glee at a bakery usually registers as the reaction from a customer to something in the pastry case.At this rollicking Bywater newcomer, glee also feels baked into the operation.

pplanted three outlets. It’s pproving that when it comes to a fresh baguette, a morning bbagel or just a sandwich on ggood, handmade bread, the nneighborhood bakery can nnever be too close. Rightfully aacclaimed for its seasonal king ccake, Gracious packs its pastry ccase with three-bite indulgences aand savory options for lunch on tthe go. B y Breakfast and lunch daily.

$ Breakfast in a cup is a specialty at Bywater Bakery, a cafe on Dauphine Street. It’s filtered through pies and petit fours, the cakes and the clever breakfast “geaux-cups� (in coffee cups), and even in the upright piano in the middle of the room where neighborhood musicians sometimes sit in for a spell.There’s always something fun and surprising coming along, sweet or savory. It’s also an everyday outlet for Miss Linda Green’s famous ya-kamein soup. Breakfast and lunch daily. y

$

GRACIOUS BAKERY + CAFÉ

1000 S. Jefferson Davis Parkway (504) 321-6233; 2854 St. Charles Ave. (504) 301-9949; 4930 Prytania St. (504) 300-8135

Of all the food niches seeing a return to artisan ways, the bakery has to be the most welcome.There’s been a boom in small bakeries around New Orleans, and Gracious has now

-3+ # * 93# 3 7 ( $&7 +4 ;&7$ -3( $-/ ) 97) 7 * $ +( 9 + + ;& $ ;&7$ 3 + $ 3& 4 3&4( 7 79 )) // 3 $& ( + -3 -+ ) 9 7)- ;&7$ $ 4 $& ( + 3& 7 ( ;&7$ $ 4 : + - 47 93( < 3 -) * ) < 7 4$ -4 $3&*/ 94$3--* 779 &+&

9+ $ &++ 3 -+ < % 793 < .. % , 8>>. # =&+ 73 7 0!>"1 ,.%>,,5 ;;;2'- <(43 47 93 +72 -*

A collection of breads and pastry lines the counter at Gracious Bakery + Cafe on St. Charles Avenue.

Hansen’s Sno-Bliz sno-ball

HANSEN’S SNO-BLIZ

4801 Tchoupitoulas St. (504) 891-9788

No matter the pace of the line, it can seem like time stands still at Hansen’s.There’s an analogue, grounded character to the place. It’s measured through generations in the sound of the warbling ice shaver, the glug of syrup from recycled liquor bottles and in the enthralled anticipation of young faces looking over the counter ledge. And still, the flavors always evolve, from bananas Foster to cardamom.All sno-ball fans can argue passionately for their own favorite stands, but Hansen’s dedication to excellence sets the standard.The shop motto is more mantra than marketing slogan: “there are no shortcuts to quality.� Lunch and dinner (11 a.m. to 7 p.m.) Tue.-Sun. (seasonal)

$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

25

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 DELIS/MARKETS Broad Street shop loves it. It is straightforward, big-batch, party-style chicken.The seasoning is just right, and so is the way the chicken is trimmed. It holds up remarkably well for later-day and even second-day eating. Cold McHardy’s chicken is still better than a lot of hot chicken from other places. It’s take-out only and built for value and efficiency. Lunch daily, dinner Mon.-Sat.

$ A double-cut stuffed pork chop with maple hatch chile sauce from the ever changing menu at the Appetite Repair Shop.

THE APPETITE REPAIR SHOP 400 Vallette St. (504) 602-9990

This extraordinary, strictly takeout joint in Old Algiers Point is run by Pete Vazquez, the chef who was ahead of his time when he had Marisol in the Marigny before Katrina. From this tiny storefront, he spins an always-changing menu of global flavors, with a penchant for Indian, and also Mexican, but not to the exclusion of deep dish pizza and hummus and tabouli.The desserts are fantastic. If you don’t live in the Point, plan to make a picnic and head to the levee.You’ll want to eat this immediately. Dinner Thu.-Sun.

$$

MATASSA’S MARKET

1001 Dauphine St. (504) 412-8700

We almost lost this old-school Italian grocery to the changing texture of the French Quarter, and that would’ve been a travesty. Instead, it’s been revamped and is in some ways better than it’s been in years.The deli is still a place for breakfast sandwiches, fried chicken and po-boys, but also now a solid burger, good Italian sandwiches (try the Cosimo) and even some grab-and-go Italian dishes from Vincent‘s Italian Cuisine.There’s a small dining counter, but Matassa’s is really a take-out joint. Maybe most of all, this neighborhood market is a reminder that the mar Freench Quarter is — and must ways be — a neighborhood. alw Breeakfast, lunch and dinner daiily.

$

MCHARDY’S CHICKEN & FIXIN’ 1458 N. Broad St. (504) 949-0000

The Cosimo is part of a new menu of Italian sandwiches at Matassa’s Market.

I kknow New Orleans families whho use McHardy’s chicken as a reward, a bargaining chip, even a tool to mediate disputes. Everyone I introduce to this

ST. JAMES CHEESE CO.

641 Tchoupitoulas St. (504) 304-1485; 5004 Prytania St. (504) 899-4737

Meld a world-class cheese shop with a busy city deli and you have this emporium of delicious things. The uniting factor is cheese worship, from how the retail stock is fondly

Fresh fried chicken sits in a box ready for a customer at McHardy’s Chicken & Fixin’. displayed and described by schedule of cheese classes mongers to how it’s worked and pairing recommendations into a menu designed by from the wine, beer and cider and for cheese lovers. It list. takes the form of happy hour Lunch daily, dinner Thu.-Sat., cheese boards for after-work brunch Sun. (downtown only). $ indulgences, well-composed sandwiches and salads, a


26

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 CHINESE

lll

JAPANESE

BAO & NOODLE 2700 Chartres St. (504) 272-0004

This small, homespun eatery is easy to overlook but compellingly good once you bite in, a description that also fits the handmade dumplings here. Look in to the open kitchen to see chef Douglas Crowell pulling long, irregular biang biang noodles, frying up pork-stuffed bao and simmering deeply flavorful soups.The specials alwayss bring something different and intriguing, and vegetarians have plenty of choices. Add a BYOB policy to its refreshingly affordable menu, and Bao & Noodle rankss among the best bangs for your buck. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat.

$

LITTLE CHINATOWN 3800 Williams Blvd. (504) 305-0580

The specials board here is written in both English and Chinese — always a good sign for the adventurous eater. It signals another great Kenner strip mall find (this time in a former Pizza Hut) where traditional flavors of the

A special roll at Megumi in Mandeville is filled with blue crab and topped with charred tuna belly.

MEGUMI

7400 La. 22, Mandeville (985) 845-1644; 1211 Village Walk, Covington (985) 893-0406

Lamb and leeks are stir-fried with hot peppers at Little Chinatown in Kenner. Cheng family’s native Hong Kong are the focus, alongside standard American-Chinese dishes to make it all more accessible. Look for robust soups swirling with duck and dark, leafy greens, lamb stir fry with leeks and jalapenos and a whole roster of “salt and pepper� dishes, a crispy, spicy treatment applied to quail, shrimp, squid and plenty more. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$

This is a sushi bar to try something new with confidence, thanks to an approach that is robust without being outlandish.The spiralbound menu catalogues the standards and more exotica, running from scallops on the half shell to monkfish liver (the foie gras of the sea, as it’s called). Nagoya tuna, for instance, brings thick slices of fish over chopped, pickled wasabi root and the blue moon roll pairs (real) crabmeat and tuna belly with a lightly torched, charred edge, like seafood barbecue. Megumi is on my mind now whenever I glimpse the Causeway, much less cross it. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$$

/81&+ ',11(5 681'$< -$== %581&+

&LQG\ %UHQQDQ

Salmon belly is draped with crispy garlic and chili oil, front, and avocado and cream at Shogun.

SHOGUN

2325 Veterans Blvd., Metairie (504) 833-7477

5 2 < $ / 6 7 5 ( ( 7 a 1 ( : 2 5 / ( $ 1 6 a a Z Z Z P U E V E LV W U R F R P

The hibachi tables up front may be a red flag for serious sushi fans, but press on. Shogun, the area’s old sushi bar, remains the best. I’m never disappointed nor at a loss for something new.What really sets Shogun apart is the robust selection of fish, swiftly rotated through the busy sushi bar, and the range to serve both traditional set pieces and unique specials with consistent quality.There is a dedicated room in back for robata grill dinners, though it’s always the long sushi bar and its teeming specials board that draws me back. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

ESSENTIAL

V 1 0 0 VIETNAMESE mung bean sweets and banh mi m loaves. Breakfast and lunch (until B 5 p.m.) Wed.-Mon.

$

LILLY’S CAFÉ 1813 Magazine St. (504) 599-9999

Dong Phuong makes banh mi in many varieties for quick snacks for sandwich platters.

DONG PHUONG 14207 Chef Menteur Highway (504) 254-0296

It’s one of the vagaries of the modern media world that Dong Phuong “went viral” for its king cake.The cake is great, but long before it ever iced its first, this bakery and noodle house was on the map as a community hub in the Vietnamese enclave of New Orleans East. It’s a road trip-worthy destination to share a meal of family-size soups and grilled meat platters and then fill some shopping bags with savory pastry, colorful

Shrimp pho from Lilly’s Cafe

The T narrow, homespun dining room r can be boisterous as a dining d hall at lunchtime.Then the t pho arrives and your world rreduces to this circle of broth aand its florid aromatics, the red curls of raw beef rapidly cooking within and the lush array of herbs and all is right.There are optional additions of quail eggs or a clutch of extra vegetables (broccoli, bok choy, red onions, etc.) to add more healthy heft, but mostly this unpretentious café serves noodle house standards in precisely the way a lover of these dishes craves. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.

$

NINE ROSES

1100 Stephens St., Gretna (504) 366-7665 620 Conti St. (504) 324-9450

For those who have come to love Vietnamese food through

pho and spring rolls, opening the vast Nine Roses menu iss like leafing through an atlas to chart the next journey. All the standards are here but where Nine Roses excels is in more elaborate specialty dishes rareely found elsewhere (tryy the bo tai chanh, a raw beef carpaccio rippling with herbs and citrus).The related Nine Roses Café brings a smalleer menu of noodle shoop standards and rotatiing specials from the larger repertoire to thhe French Quarter. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. (Gretna); lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. (French Quarter)

$

Bo tai chanh is a traditional Vietnamese dish of marinated raw beef with fresh herbs and lemon served at Nine Roses in Gretna.

27


28

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 PO-BOYS fried pickles or the Buffalo shrimp po-boy dripping with blue cheese dressing. Lunch Mon.-Sat.

$

PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN

538 N. Hagan St. (504) 482-3047

Buffalo shrimp are topped with blue cheese for a specialty po-boy at Avery’s on Tulane.

AVERY’S ON TULANE 2510 Tulane Ave. (504) 821-4110

Po-boys are just part of New Orleans. But how long would they remain a vital part if all we had left were the old guard? Avery’s is one of the newer

additions ensuring we won’t have to find out anytime soon. This is a low-key, low-slung spot by the courthouse and hospitals.What makes it special is a devotion to bedrock local flavors melded with ideas from its own kitchen, or sometimes the regulars’ special requests. Start with the roast beef with

A busy day at Parkway can make you believe in New Orleans, and maybe even in America.To watch this Mid-City mainstay in action is to witness unvarnished adoration of the po-boy, from the bustling bar to a tented patio that feels like a family-friendly beer garden. It’s something the city shares together — locals and tourists, all walks of life, all ages and dispositions.What draws them is no fad but the fundamentals of fried shrimp tumbling from the bread and roast beef debris

Roast beef po-boys are part of the traditional menu at Parkway Bakery & Tavern. you can smell cooking all the way from Bayou St. John. Long live Parkway. Lunch and dinner Wed.-Mon.

$

PARRAN’S PO-BOYS

3939 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie (504) 885-3416 and 2321 W. Esplanade Ave., Kenner (504) 305-6422

Parran means godfather in French Louisiana, and this joint has been around long

3322 North Turnbull Drive Metairie, LA

504-455-7363 ANDYSBISTRO.COM

enough to count as family to some regulars. While expanding its menu to bring in seafood muffulettas and pizza, Parran’s is still based on traditional plate lunches (where else do you find mirliton casserole like this?) and po-boys, built on John Gendusa Bakery bread. Order “the trifecta” and you get a four-inch version of three poboy classics on the same plate — roast beef, meatball, fried shrimp. Look for an Uptown location (4920 Prytania St.) to open this spring. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.

$

The trifecta order at Parran’s Po-Boys has short versions of roast beef, meatball and shrimp po-boys.


The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

100

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

INDIAN/ PAKISTANI

Saffron NOLA serves a menu of modern Indian flavors infused with worldly, contemporary influences and traditional elements.

SAFFRON NOLA 4128 Magazine St. (504) 323-2626

Fusion fits Saffron NOLA as shorthand, but really this restaurant is the original expression of an immigrant family story.This is a multigenerational effort by the Vilkhu family that starts by rethinking the Indian restaurant template, adds Gulf Coast context and ends up being both unique and utterly compelling. Fried shrimp and lentil-batter crabcakes, gumbo, composed fish dishes, garlicky broiled oysters with naan and even a charcuterie board all pass through a modern Indian lens. Upscale and ambitious, it still feels intimate and personal, and most of all sumptuous. Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

$$ -2 . -2

-2 $2 -2

'21 + 6 ! 1.!. ' *

0 #&(%

$ $$$$$

$ (30 (3, 5) & %3& 3 0

Wah Kitchen in Kenner prepares a variety of biryani rice dishes, including one with grilled fish.

WAH KITCHEN

2401 Veterans Blvd., Kenner (504) 541-8612

The strip malls of Kenner present a patchwork of international flavors, usually with little curb appeal but genuine, mom-and-pop cooking to keep you coming back.Wah Kitchen is one example that stands out with some of the best south Asian food this area has seen. Influences of the Khan family’s native Pakistan and dishes from the Indian canon combine on a robust menu of spicy, twisty pakora fritters, smoked chicken curry, aromatic biryani rice striped with fish or goat and cool mango lassi drinks.The setting is as plain as a dining hall; that won’t matter once the food starts coming. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun.

$

16 + 6 ! ' !'-' + *

&",4 & &(%

"" " %) 0 , 0 ",( * , #/) 1 * , ,# )" #/, , ) " " "'/ , )##! ) ", &

29


30

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 BURGERS These are slim-patty burgers. Get yourself a side of tots or fries to finish it off, and dress them up at the mayo bar. Lunch and dinner daily.

$

FHARMACY NOLA BAR & GRILL 2540 Banks St. (504) 324-6090

The namesake burger at the Company Burger is a double stack with cheese.

THE COMPANY BURGER 4600 Freret St. (504) 267-0320 611 O’Keefe Ave. (504) 309-9422

This is the classic American burger joint, revised for an America that likes a good

drink with its burger, wants something fresh on the side and appreciates what the concept looks like to a chef instead of a franchising company. Order at the counter and watch the kitchen crew work the griddle and fryer. All that is familiar enough. But the result is so much more tightly composed and truly flavorful.

Combine the next-generation Vietnamese-New Orleans food obsession with an American bar and grill and you have this deliciously off-kilter eatery. The burgers — thick, coarsely ground, gushing juice — must be in any conversation about the city’s best. Behind the long, open diner counter, the crew talks up the specials, stacks deli sandwiches, slices lemon grass chicken for tacos, sauces up seriously hot wings, fries boudin balls and pours Belgian ale direct from the tap over bowls

The Cali burger at Fharmacy NOLA pairs a thick patty with fresh toppings. of mussels.This narrow shotgun house is rocking during lunch, while at night it feels more like a

ESSENTIAL

etc.

backstreet find. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.

$

S restaurant Six Happy Hours

ANGELINE — 5:30 p.m. to 7 p.m.Wed.-Fri. 1032 Chartres St., (504) 308-3106 Southern style small plates, sherry, wine and beer deals BLUE OAK BBQ — 3 p.m.m to 6 p.m.Tue.-Fri. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., (504) 822-2583 Smokehouse snacks and drink deals BRENNAN’S RESTAURANT — 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Fri. 417 Royal St., (504) 525-9711 Deals on bubbly, upscale small plates CAVAN — 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily, 10 p.m. to midnight Fri./Sat. 3607 Magazine St., (504) 509-7655 Bar snacks and drink deals DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE — 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily 716 Iberville St., (504) 522-2467 “$5 after 5” brings small plates, sandwiches and drink deals ST. JAMES CHEESE CO. — 641 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 304-1485 and 5004 Prytania St., (504) 899-4737 A cheese lover’s happy hour (uptown: 5 p.m. to 8 pm Thu.-Sat; downtown: 3 p.m.m to 6 p.m. Mon.-Sat.)


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 BARBECUE

Cracklin serves as a side for the barbecue pork sandwich at Blue Oak BBQ.

BLUE OAK BBQ 900 N. Carrollton Ave. (504) 822-2583

As New Orleans barbecue has come into its own, Blue Oak has been helping set the pace.The home base for this one-time pop-up is a fun, family-friendly hub of pork with an outdoor pavilion, a beer-lover’s bar and easy proximity to City Park and bayou outings.The style is lowand-slow and multi-regional. The smoked chicken wings are essential. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun.

$$

CENTRAL CITY BBQ 1201 N. Rampart St. (504) 558-4276

In a once-discarded corner of town, this multifaceted place is something new for New Orleans. Orleans

Thee prodigious smokehouse puts a Louisiana stamp on barbecue with boudin, smoked brissket gumbo and meat pies joinning the standard platters. Buut the bigger story is how thee resstaurant and its sprawling groounds, hemmed by shippingg containers, has become a new w hub for food events and mini foood festivals and even some collaboration with the Paradiggm Gaardens urban farm just next door.That’s a lot for a barbecuue joint to take on. But there’s vitality and potential here, andd some really good spoonbreadd. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$

THE JOINT

701 Mazant St. (504) 949-3232

With 14 years under its belt, the Joint counts as the senior senator of the nascent New Orleans barbecue scene. Its low-and-slow ways still draw a loyal following down to the back end of the Bywater because it remains among the best places to satisfy a craving for deep-smoked meats, and it’s particular specialty in ribs.The location lives up to the name, with few amenities, though there is a full bar to ponder the synchronicity of brisket and bourbon. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.

Ribs are the speciaiity at the Joint, a barbecue restaurant in the Bywater.

$$

Located just off the Tchefuncte River in Madisonville Louisiana, we take pride in our local flair.

ENJOY OUR RIVER VIEW DINING A mixed platter of barbecue includes brisket, chicken and burnt ends at Central City BBQ.

We’re always cooking up something special! Come in to try our Catch of the Day, taste a freshly made Specialty Martini, or get your hands on fresh and local in-season seafood. Morton’s Seafood Restaurant & Bar 2014 | 702 Water St., Madisonville, LA 70447 | 985.845.4970

31


32

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 CAJUN TOUPS’ MEATERY

8845 N. Carrollton Ave. (504) 252-4999

The meatery board at Toups’ Meatery is a sampling of charcuterie.

Finne dining chefs eveerywhere are taking on ruraal comfort food. But few w have so rich a tradition to ddraw from as chef Isaac Touups, who hails from the Cajuun prairie, and fewer still achieve the kind of genuine gusto you get here. Thiss Mid-City meateryeateery performs like a highh-aiming bistro but still feelss like an approachable neigghborhood joint. Geneerous charcuterie boarrds, barbecue goat, confifit chicken thighs and a deft wine list are hallmarks. The ssidewalk tables are choicce seats in nice weathher. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$$$

Pepper jack cheese oozes from a stuffed boudin ball at Tres Bon Cajun Meats in River Ridge.

TRÈS BON CAJUN MEATS

10316 Jefferson Highway, River Ridge (504) 405-5355

We used to have to cross the Atchafalaya River to find a Cajun smokehouse and eatery like this. Now a trip to River Ridge does the trick.Très Bon feels like a combination country store and butcher shop with a hot

ESSENTIAL

etc.

lunch counter and a specialty in barbecue. During the season, the surf and turf here means boiled crawfish with boudin and brisket.The main draws are butcher stop staples: cracklin’, boudin links and the boudin balls, rolled regular or stuffed with pepper jack cheese that oozes between spicy filling and crisp shell. Breakfast (from 9 a.m.), lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. $

Best bets for v vegetarians

1000 FIGS 3141 Ponce de Leon St., (504) 301-0848 Verdantly fresh modern Mediterranean food with vegetables in the forefront. BAO & NOODLE 2700 Chartres St., (504) 272-0004 Highly flavorful regional Chinese cooking with vegan options. CARMO 527 Julia St., (504) 875-4132 Much of the global, tropical menu converts to meatless or vegan. RESTAURANT AUGUST 301 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 299-9777 The chef’s vegetarian tasting menu is a fixture at this high-end destination. WAH KITCHEN 2401 Veterans Blvd., Kenner, (504) 305-0492 About a third of this traditional Pakistani menu is vegetarian.


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

33

ESSENTIAL

S 1 0 0 STEAKHOUSES LA BOCA

870 Tchoupitoulas SSt. (504) 525-8205

The chateaubriand platter is an impressive shared dinner at Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse.

DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE 716 Iberville St. (504) 522-2467

From the bustling bar, you step down into this subterranean den of steak and find the best argument going that “Creole steakhouse” can be its own restaurant category. Beef is the main act, but the seafood and

the distinctively New Orleans flavors around the menu are more than support players. It’s integral to the approach here, as with the barbecue rib eye (with buttery barbecue shrimp) and the oyster steak (an unconventional cut) with fried oysters. Check the $5 happy hour plates and sandwiches at the bar (5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily). Dinner daily, lunch Fri.

$$$$$

The name translates to “the mouth” and mine waters when I hear it. Chef Adolfo Garcia’s Warehouse District steakhouse is cut to Argentine specifications. It’s about slow cooking and full, rendered flavor rather than the sttandard American filet-mignon-first model. Empanadas and sweetbreads and bouquets of ultra-crisp fries start it off. Chimichurri is there for every other bite.And the bar’s expertise in malbec, Scotch and amaro is second to none in this town. Bonus points for late hours (till midnight) Thursday to Saturday. Dinner Mon.-Sat.

$$$$

MR. JOHN’S STEAKHOUSE 2111 St. Charles Ave. (504) 679-7697

You hear about the reputation of some steakhouses. At Mr. John’s you actually hear the steaks. The sizzling platter, snapping with butter like sparkler flares, announces one incoming like a locomotive barreling through this dining

room. The menu makes room for seafood and Italian dishes, but this is a steakhouse through and through. Mr. John’s looks the part — a lair of red meat done in dark wood and gleaming tile. For the same steak with a more modern ambiance, see the related Desi Vega Steakhouse a mile down the avenue. Lunch Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat.

$$$$$

Voted Best Fried Catfish In The Greater New Orleans Area!

Enjoy Great Food From Catfish To Frog Legs From Clesi’s & Sip Craft Cocktails and Drink Beer From Trèo All On Our Relaxing Outdoor Patio

The Argentinian style steakhouse La Boca serves a molten cheese appetizer called provoleta.

A sizzling strip steak at Mr. John’s Steakhouse

Happy Hour Weekdays 4-7pm Boiled Crawfish Daily Closed on Mondays 3835 Tulane Avenue | treonola.com


34

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MODERN FUSION

Kin serves an ever-changing variety of dumplings with unconventional fillings.

KIN

4600 Washington Ave. (504) 304-8557

This consistently unconventional eatery rewards those willing to venture off the grid with adventurous fusion flavors, great value and a dose of nextgeneration culinary dash. It is essentially a noodle house for ramen and dumplings, but each part of the equation brings vigorous East-meets-West energy orchestrated by chef

Hieu H Than.You might have bbeef stroganoff dumplings hhere one night, and “shrimp eeggroll” dumplings the next; tthe ramen is artfully done bbut also deeply flavored. Be prepared to share the B ccommunal table and dining bbars at this tiny spot and remember to BYOB. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat.

iink bucatini noodles tangled aaround oysters and glittered bby citrus and chile spice.The weekend brunch menu is all w dim d sum, with headcheese soup dumplings and bacon scallion d pancakes with kimchi oysters. It p feels like it’s at the forefront, but f also a like the chefs are having fun. f Dinner daily, lunch Mon.-Fri., D brunch Sat. and Sun. b

$$

$ $$$$

MARJIE’S GRILL L 320 S. Broad St. (504) 603-2234

Between the smoky charred pork shoulder with fresh herbss, the smothered okra with fish sauce and the fried catfish with coriander salad, Marjie’s Grill gives a rendition of Southern cooking that takes a broader view of the modern South. The menu sets out copious vegetables (chopped raw or slow roasted), an impressively varied rotation of fish, and

Pork shoulder steak is cooked over charcoal and served witth fresh herbs and garlic chile sauce at Marjie’s Grill. charcoal-cooked meats. It is a walk-right-in, sit-right-down joint. It’s short on amenities but, refreshingly, the handmade, no-fuss approach here carries all the way through to the prices. Moderate at dinner, it’s an unvarnished bargain at lunch, when the kitchen adopts a meat-and-three plate lunch format. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner Mon.Sat.

$$

MAYPOP

611 O’Keefe Ave. (504) 518-6345

Mixing flavors of Louisiana annd Southeast Asia, Maypop is ambitious, affable and bent on o forging original cuisine. It’s thee latest from the chefs and crew w behind MoPho (see right), and nd it strikes a more upscale tone in the CBD. Maypop can present elegant compositions like a wreath of cured red snapper, b i dishes di h like lik squid id or brawnier

DOWNLOAD OUR MOBILE APP

MENU EXPRESS Delivers a WIDE VARIETY of DELICIOUS FOOD From Over 40 Local Restaurants Choose from: Chinese, Mexican, Italian, BBQ, Pizza, Po-Boys, Thai, Japanese, Seafood, Steaks, Desserts, Local Specialties, Homestyle Cooking

Fine Dining at a Moment’s Notice!

985-875-7700 All Major Credit Cards Accepted ORDER ONLINE • www.MenuExpressDelivery.com • Gift Cards Available

Soft shell crab amandine at Maypop has almonds worked into the fried crust and pressed into the brown butter sauce.

Clams in peppery jelly broth with beignets is a specialty at MoPho.

MOPHO

514 City Park Ave. (504) 482-6845

Chhef Michael Gulotta’s firsst eatery draws flavors from Southeast Asia, hass the modern/casual styyle of a gastropub and hass assumed the role of anyytime neighborhood joint in itts corner of Mid-City. From m starting points of pho andd spring rolls, specials go m more global and can be aambitious.There are alwaays paper towels on the table, a good wine list and roll-up doors leading to the patioo and grill.When the tempperatures soar, check out tthe frozen drinks a la bubbble teas. Lunch aand dinner daily.

$$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 BREAKFAST

ͷͲͻ Ǥ ǡ ͻͺͷǦͺͻʹǦͻͻͻʹ

A croque madame awaits at Toast, a breakfast spot on Laurel Street and Gentilly Boulevard.

TOAST

1845 Gentilly Blvd. (504) 351-3664 and 5433 Laurel St. (504) 267-3260

Toast got its start at the Uptown French bakery Tartine, which helps explain some of the French flair running through its menu. The Southern sass must have just come with the territory. Each of these tiny spots feels vital to their respective neighborhoods and are interesting breakfast destinations too because the menus go beyond basics. A crisp, simple side salad completes a hearty croque madame with greens; the steak and eggs is made with a bistro-worthy hanger steak with tarragon aioli. Crepes cover the sweet to savory range. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Fields has built up her downtown bakery and café, the term “gastrodiner” seems to fit. Fields, pastry chef for BRG Hospitality, made her name with exquisite desserts.Willa Jean, named for her grandmother, pairs modern design with a menu that can feel as cozy as a creaking back porch. It’s a spot for biscuits

with fried chicken and sausage gravy in the morning, composed salads and avocado toast at lunch, a glass of rosé after the workday and a salt-speckled chocolate chip cookie to get you through it. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

$$

$

WILLA JEAN 611 O’Keefe Ave. (504) 509-7334

When chefs tackle bar food, we call it a gastropub.The way Kelly

Salmon tops an open-face sandwich at Willa Jean, a cafe and bakery in downtown New Orleans.

n

35


36

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MUSIC ON THE MENU

PIZZA

BACCHANAL 600 Poland Ave., (504) 948-9111

One of the great convivial eating and drinking spaces of New Orleans is also among its most unlikely, a multifaceted, two-story outpost of wine, good food and live music adjoining a yard that looks more like a mini-festival grounds than a restaurant patio. Get your wine by the bottle in the retail shop or climbb the stairs to the breezy upstairs bar. Chef Joaquin Rodas’ alwayschanging Mediterranean menu rangges through small plates and full-fledged style ed bistro bistro-style entrees.Angle for off-hours to avoid the crowds. Lunch and dinner daily (21+ only).

$$

THE THREE MUSES

536 Frenchmen St., (504) 252-4801

Music plus food plus drinks in New Orleans. It sounds like simple math. In practice, precious few places actually combine them well. None do it better than Three Muses, right in the vortex of

Feta fries are part of the eclectic small plates menu at the Three Muses on Frenchmen Street. Frenchmen Street. It’s a tiny place for small plates with tight local jazz and blues acts playing by the storefront window. Chef Daniel Esses’ menu mixes Mediterranean and Asian flavors for dishes that are shareable and memorable. Make a reservation. Dinner nightly.

$$

Ancora on Freret Street makes pizza in its wood-burning oven.

ANCORA

4508 Freret St., (504) 324-1636

As always, the appeal of Ancora comes down to the domed woodburning oven at the center of the operation and the plate-sized Neapolitan circles of crust and cheese it puts under your nose. Lately though, this Freret Street fixture has upped its game both with the pies and with the rest of the menu — beautifully fresh salads and sides, lushly done salumi and a smart southern Italian wine list. If you think you know this place already, it might be time to revisit. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$

The pies at Mid-City Pizza are New York style, with thin crust and a bubble-pocked edge.

MID-CITY PIZZA

4400 Banks St., (504) 483-8609 6307 S. Miro St., (504) 509-6224

Pizza cravings are specific. No one type of pie can answer them all. For the type that calls out for the thin crust, straight-up New York-style pizzeria pie, there’s none better in New Orleans than Mid-City Pizza (which added a second location last year).There’s the pliant-to-rigid ratio of the thin crust, the halo of bubbles baked into the edges, the orange rivulets of grease when you fold a broad slice in your hand.The rest of the menu is basic (waffle fries, cheese sticks, a few salads), and that’s just fine when the focus is on the pizza. Lunch and dinner daily.

$


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 MIDDLE EASTERN

Hummus with lamb and pork at 1000 Figs.

1000 FIGS

3141 Ponce de Leon St. (504) 301-0848

The food truck Fat Falafel begat this tiny, unique, utterly compelling eatery just off Esplanade Avenue. Falafel and hummus remain signatures, though the shared falafel platter is now like a one-plate banquet of garlicky sauces and fresh garnish.The rest of the Mediterranean menu exudes a small batch aesthetic. Vegetarians have lots of room (though the lamb and pork hummus is still my favorite here). The restaurant itself can get house-party cramped, but there’s a reason people are packing in. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat.

$

SHAWARMA ON THE GO 3720 Magazine St. (504) 269-6427

A take-out counter in an Uptown gas station is the place to find shawarma sandwiches

as they are done back in theeir homeland, or at least the closest rendition around herre. It’s a tight package — just chicken cut from the rotisserrie, thin pickle spears and a dolllop of toum (the heavenly, fluffy white garlic sauce). It’s encased in a grilled tortilla to simulatee traditional markouk flatbreadd, instead of the usual pita. Regional Persian dishes cyclle through the specials board, but for a meal “on the go,” thhis shawarma is hard to beat. Lunch and dinner daily.

$

SHISHKABOB HOUSE

3804 Williams Blvd., Kennner (504) 712-0765

Before Katrina, the Mousa family ran Jerusalem, a MidCity deli that introduced manny in this town to what Middle Eastern flavors mean.Today, they run Shishkabob House in a Kenner strip mall, part of the area’s great multinational hub of eateries.Their menu is a straightforward roster of Arab staples, and what stands out is the family’s meticulous pride in them. It’s the good olive oil, the restrained but proper seasoning, the presentation of namesake kebabs and swirls of hummus. It’s traditional, affordable and a welcome find. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun.

Shishkabob House in Kenner serves traditional Middle Eastern dishes.

$

A variegated stack of sliced chicken, toum garlic sauce and a thin tortilla wrap distinguish the shawarma at Shawarma on the Go.

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

37


38

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

theadvocate.com

n

The Advocate

lll

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 SSEAFOOD, UPSCALE GW FINS

808 Bienville St. (504) 581-3467

Thhis superb seafood house has the scale annd classic lines of a dining institution. Buut onn the plate, chef Mike Nelson’s kitchen brings the kind of verve and playfulness off a boundary-pushing young bistro. His m menus run through blue crab pot stickerss annd smoked oysters, crudo and fried snnapper “collars,” cracklin’-crusted drum, thick slabs off tuna and whatever else just landed.A giant, bone-in wordfish chop for two is a new showstopper. GW Fins sw iss a top choice when you want something different with alll the amenities of the high end. Dinner nightly. D

$$$$$ $

PÊCHE SEAFOOD GRILL The swordfish barbecue ‘ribs’ at GW Fins is one of chef Mike Nelson’s ever-changing specials drawn from Gulf seafood.

800 Magazine St. (504) 522-1744

G Gulf seafood is a pretty easy sell in New Orleans. But Donald Link’s upscale-casual seafood house pitches something different from the familiar standards, and

Tuna crudo is part of the raw bar menu at Pêche Seafood Grill. that’s what makes coming here so exciting. Crudo creations dressed with oil and herbs or a side of catfish smothered under a wondrously flavorful bayoustyle gravy show the range that chef Ryan Prewitt works with here. Go with a group to get most of the whole fish presentations, or find a spot at the raw bar when dining solo.With a wood-fire grill at work, this is a seafood restaurant where steak or chicken can be just as sound a choice. Lunch and dinner daily.

$$$$

SEAFOOD, CASUAL (AND BOILED) BEVI SEAFOOD D CO. 4701 Airline Drive, Metairie (504) 885-5003 and 236 N. Carrollton Ave. (504) 488-7503

When people want crawfishh, there’s a line out the door aat Bevi. It’s well-sourced and properly done, and it’s no surprise crowds flock here. Any time though, these two subtly updated takes on thee New Orleans seafood market are prime territory for poboys (traditional or specialty), deep-dark gumbo and a good draft beer. Fried seafood and roast beef are the expected standouts, though Bevi also has a good hand with pork with its specialty po-boys and “swine fries,” topped with cracklin’. Hours vary by location.

$

The Cajun citrus flavor is one crawfish variety at Big EZ Seafood.

BIG EZ SEAFOOD

1632 Lafayette St., Gretna (504) 272-0711 Viet-Cajun crawfish, a style that started in other communities, has finally come boomeranging back to the crawfish heartland of Louisiana.This market and

eatery is mong the am firsst places it laanded. Thee seafood (including shrrimp, crabs andd various crab legs) are coated in ddifferent sauces, including the signature garlic butter. They re heartier heartier, and pricier, and They’re a distinctly different read on a local pleasure.The po-boys, gumbo, ya-ka-mein and graband-go boudin snacks are more familiar and well done. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.

(504) 738-1116

Nowhere is like Seither’s these days, and few places are this much fun.You may think you already know the score — this small, ramshackle seafood joint looks familiar enough, and there’s the omnipresent aroma of the boiling pot. But chef Jason Seither has remade his eatery with creative, even eye popping dishes running eye-popping

alongside the standard plates and po-boys. His specialties meld soft-shell crabs, shrimp remoulade and seared drum with ingredients from the taqueria and sushi bar.The oyster bar is its own rollicking lair of longneck beers and deep belly laughter. Lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.Sat.

$$

$

SEITHER’S SEAFOOD

279 Hickory Ave., Harahan

The hook, line and dine platter at Seither’s Seafood


The Advocate

lll

n

theadvocate.com

n

Friday,April 27, 2018

n

39

ESSENTIAL

1 0 0 INDEX OF RESTAURANTS 1000 Figs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Ancora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Angeline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Angelo Brocato’s Ice Cream & Confectionery . 24 The Appetite Repair Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Arnaud’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Atchafalaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Avery’s on Tulane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Avo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Bacchanal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Bao & Noodle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Bayona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Bevi Seafood Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Big EZ Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Blue Oak BBQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Boucherie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Brasa Churrasqueria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Brennan’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Brigtsen’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Bywater Bakery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Cafe Degas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Carmo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Carrollton Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Cavan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Central City BBQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Chef D’z Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Clancy’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Commander’s Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 The Company Burger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Compere Lapin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Coquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Dong Phuong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Dooky Chase’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 DTB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 El Pavo Real . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Emeril’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Fharmacy Nola Bar & Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Frey Smoked Meat Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Gabrielle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Galatoire’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Gallagher’s Grill & Courtyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Gracious Bakery + Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 GW Fins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Hansen’s Sno-Bliz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Herbsaint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 High Hat Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 The Joint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Kin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 La Boca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 La Petite Grocery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Lilette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Lilly’s Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Little Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Little Korea BBQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Liuzza’s Restaurant & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 McHardy’s Chicken & Fixin’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Mandina’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Marcello’s Wine Bar and Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Marjie’s Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Matassa’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Maypop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Meauxbar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Megumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Meril . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Mid-City Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 MoPho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Mosca’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Mr . Ed’s Oyster Bar and Fish House . . . . . . . . . 15 Mr . John’s Steakhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 The Munch Factory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Nine Roses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Norma’s Sweets Bakery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 The Original Fiorellas’ Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Paladar 511 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Parkway Bakery & Tavern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Parran’s Po-Boys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Pascal’s Manale Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Patois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Peche Seafood Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Restaurant August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Rosedale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Saffron Nola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Seither’s Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Shawarma on the Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Shishkabob House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Shogun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 St . James Chesse Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Station 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Sylvain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Taqueria Chilangos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 The Three Muses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Toast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Toups’ Meatery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Tres Bon Cajun Meats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Tujague’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Upperline Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Wah Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Willa Jean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

VISIT US AT ONE OF OUR 4 NEW ORLEANS LOCATIONS UPTOWN

6047 MAGAZINE ST Near State Street 504-218-4220

MIDCITY

309 N CARROLLTON AVE On the Corner of Bienville 504-488-8118

OLD JEFFERSON

4421 JEFFERSON HWY Corner of Central Ave 504-733-8572

METARIE

2949 VETERANS MEMORIAL BLVD Next to Trader Joes 504-875-4810

A NICE MEAL SHOULDN’T JUST BE FOR HUMANS... COME TO JEFFERSON FEED FOR ALL YOUR PET’S DINING NEEDS

$5 OFF

ANY PURCHASE OF $25 OR MORE GOOD AT ANY Jefferson Feed Location. With coupon only. Expires 05/01/2018. Not to be used with any other offer.

WWW.JEFFERSONFEED.COM


40

F

Friday, April 27, 2018

F

theneworleansadvocate.com

F

The Advocate


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.