A Love Affair with Pizza

Ilove pizza. Truly, truly love pizza. I have not, however, always loved Washington, DC pizza. When I moved to town 17 years ago from New England, I found the pizza scene more than a bit lacking. But over the last few years. I have discovered DC pizza worthy of my love and this past Valentine’s Day I discovered one of the reasons why.

I spent Valentine’s Day at Stellina Pizzeria for their From Capri with Love event. My friend and fellow cookbook author Amy Riolo organized the event with owners Antonio Matarazzo and Chef Matteo Venini along with Ristorante D’Amore Capri’s Executive Chef Pasquale Rinaldo and Pizzaiolo Antonio Fusco who had just arrived in the US to cook at the James Beard House a few days prior. Riolo is an expert on all things pizza. As a Brand Ambassador for the Pizza University and Culinary Arts Center (pizzauniversity. org) in Beltsville, MD, she also writes blog posts and teaches classes on the subject.

When choosing great pizza, Riolo says, you have to first figure your “pizza personality,” or at a minimum, what you’re in the mood for. Today in the DC area there are as many styles of pizza as there are toppings, and some pizzerie actually identify themselves by the style they prefer – which makes the selection process easier. For example, if you know you like super-crunchy crust, then try Neo- Neapolitan. If you like traditional, go for Neapolitan, or if you prefer your pie filled with lots of toppings, then go for Chicago or Detroit. (Want to know the details behind the differences in style? Check out Amy’s blog post on pizza styles at pizzauniversity.org. Until recently, says Riolo, DC was not known as a pizza-lover’s dream destination. “But that has changed thanks to many pas

by Jonathan Bardzik

Above: Stellina Pizzeria owners Antonio Matarazzo and Chef Matteo Venini serve it up Neo-Neopolitan during a celebration of Capri with pizza expert Chef Amy Riolo, Executive Chef Pasquale Rinaldo and Pizzaiolo Antonio Fusco. Photo: Nandor Nagy

DCNe w s . c o m sionate consumers, restaurateurs, and the Marra Family.” The Marra family, originally from Naples, Italy, founded Marra Forni (marraforni.com) in Maryland. The leading US manufacturer of custom brick ovens, their ovens provide local pizza restaurants with the tools they need for success.

In 2018, the Marra Family also opened The Pizza University and Culinary Arts Center to teach not only the art of pizza making, but also integral knowledge about the pizza-business to anyone looking to open a successful pizzeria. “Our mission is to offer the most comprehensive pizza-making and business operation information in the industry. Authen

tic, artisan pizza-making combines science, artistry, technique, knowledge, passion, operational skills, and a commitment to centuries-old traditions,” says Riolo. Nowadays the DMV boasts many restaurants with certifi ed Pizzaioli as well as Marra Forni ovens, both of which ensure authenticity and quality.

So, seated next to an expert, enjoying a hot, crisp-crusted slice of pizza I asked Riolo for her DMV favorites:

AMY’S TOP CHOICES: Stellina Here you can enjoy Neo-Neapolitan at its brightest and best in an atmosphere that takes you to modern Naples. It’s no accident that Stellina is on the Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurant list and was named a “Best New Restaurant” in 2019 by many. Chef Matteo Venini cranks out hundreds of classic and new pizza interpretations daily in his Marra Forni oven. Stellina has also earned much deserved press for their fried items – just like off the streets of Italy – sometimes better. Don’t miss the fried arti

Using an oven imported from Napoli, Il Canale serves wood-fi red pizza at their Georgetown restaurant. Photo: Roberto Farruggio

The winds of March that make my heart a dancer....lead me to Mr. Henry’s!

Check out our Wine Club, live music and great patio!

check out all of our happenings at www.Mrhenrysdc.com

601 Pennsylvania Ave. SE

LIVE MUSIC Wed. thru Sat. evenings.

Homemade pizza is an easy treat. Jonathan Bardzik cooked up this pumpkin, Merguez sausage and feta cheese pizza for his new show Jonathan’s Kitchen debuting this spring on Amazon Prime Video.

Pizzeria-Old-Town- Pizzeria Paradiso began serving up its delicious, award-winning pizza in their original location near Dupont circle nearly 30 years ago. Photo: Pizzaria Paradiso

chokes, cauliflower, and arancini! Riolo says, “If I had to pick a pizzeria to eat at daily, it would be Stellina, and I would be happy doing it!” (stellinapizzeria.com, 399 Morse St NE)

Il Canale Owner Joe Farruggio, opened the restaurant in 2010 after decades of making pizza in New York. He has become a pillar of the Italian-American community in DC and many local charity events are hosted there. His traditional wood-fired pizzas are tried and true. If you happen to go there when the Italian team is playing in the World Cup (soccer), you might just find Riolo, and her Italian guests eating there. (ilcanale.com, 1065 31st Street, NW)

Pizzeria Paradiso The restaurant was founded in 1991 to “make the kind of pizza we longed for but couldn’t find in the

Pizza At Home While your home oven is not going to reach the 700-900 F plus temperatures of these restaurant ovens, you can still make darn good pizza at home. Below is the recipe for my basic crust.

Homemade Pizza Crust makes 2 10” pizza crusts

This takes an hour to proof the dough and pre-heat the oven, so start your dinner prep early and have plenty of wine on hand while you wait.

Ingredients: 1 1/4 cup warm water 2 1/2 tsp active dry yeast (about 1 packet) 3 cups all purpose flour 1 1/2 tsp salt 2 tbs olive oil

Directions: Place pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500F while dough proofs. You want the oven good and hot so I pre-heat for at least an hour.

In a large mixing bowl, sprinkle yeast over warm water. If it doesn’t begin to foam within 5 minutes, sprinkle in a pinch of sugar. If it still doesn’t foam then order a pizza for delivery and plan to buy new yeast.

When yeast starts to foam, stir in the flour and salt to make a slightly tacky dough. Knead in the mixer with a dough hook or on a floured surface with your hands until it springs back to the touch, about 3 minutes in the mixer or 6 minutes by hand. Pour oil into a large, clean mixing bowl. Add dough and turn to coat with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and set somewhere warm, about 75-80F, for an hour to rise.

Divide dough in half and, using your fingers, press out from the center to form a roughly round, thin crust. Top lightly and bake for 8-10 minutes until crisp and beginning to brown.

Last fall Amy and topped the crust with fresh roasted pumpkin, Merguez sausage and feta cheese from Mike Bowers at Eastern Market for my upcoming, new TV show Jonathan’s Kitchen.