Capital 38 by Capital

CAPITAL TA L E S O F T H E C I T Y

THE NEST OUT WEST SUMMER 2017

ISSUE 38

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CAPITAL

MADE IN WELLINGTON W

e have new people at the helm, at local body and national level, and a new year to enjoy. My grandmother, when remarking on new and surprising happenings, used to adapt a well known phrase and say “Chance is a fine thing.” I imagine a lot of political Wellington might endorse that phrase for 2017. I find it useful to keep her wisdom in mind here, and welcome the suggestions and pitches that come from readers and advertisers alike, and PR firms, those new middle-men in the world of journalism. Often it is a chance comment or casual discussion that leads us to a great story, or photograph. So please don’t hesitate to email me with your ideas. As always, a wealth of outdoor events and activities are on offer around the region, including festivals, concerts, bike rides, fun runs, horse-racing, cricket and rugby 7s. Not to mention days at the beach and family walks and picnics. Are we nicer in summer? Maybe so. Certainly an increase in sunshine hours helps alleviate depression. In this two month issue, and our biggest ever, newish Mayor Justin Lester talks about his aims for Wellington, and, in a new occasional series on localities Beth Rose looks closely at life in Makara, Wellington’s Westward Ho. To while away those leisurely days we have some holiday reading for you with a short story by Valerie Arvidson, currently a doctoral student at the Institute of Modern Letters at Victoria University. And a colouring-in page for big and small kids whose fingers twitch for an artistic challenge. Thank you to Gordon Harris, who have generously offered prizes. Tasty picnic food ideas are provided by Nikki and Jordan Shearer, while Melody Thomas rounds up some of the outdoor music options for you to take your picnic to. Columnist Vanessa Ellingham provides a light hearted view of what Danish folk consider to be hills, while our Welly Angel, Deirdre Tarrant dispenses a double dose of advice to get you through the next two months. And of course lots, lots, more. Until our March issue, enjoy your summer.

We jump into 2017 with a splash.

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C O N TA C T U S Phone +64 4 385 1426 Email editor@capitalmag.co.nz Website www.capitalmag.co.nz Facebook facebook.com/CapitalMagazineWellington Twitter @CapitalMagWelly Instagram @capitalmag Post Box 9202, Marion Square, Wellington 6141 Deliveries 31–41 Pirie St, Mt Victoria, Wellington, 6011 ISSN 2324-4836 Produced by Capital Publishing Ltd

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CONTRIBUTORS

Staff Alison Franks Managing editor editor@capitalmag.co.nz Campaign coordinators Lyndsey O’Reilly lyndsey@capitalmag.co.nz Haleigh Trower haleigh@capitalmag.co.nz Michael Benton michael@capitalmag.co.nz Griff Bristed griff@capitalmag.co.nz Factotum John Bristed john@capitalmag.co.nz Art direction Shalee Fitzsimmons shalee@capitalmag.co.nz Design Rhett Goodley- design@capitalmag.co.nz Hornblow Accounts Tod Harfield accounts@capitalmag.co.nz Craig Beardsworth

Factotum

Gus Bristed

Distribution

Contributors

CRAIG BEARDSWORTH Fac totum

VA N E S S A E L L I N G HA M C olum n i st

Craig is the assistant editor of our sister publication Art Zone. Because the office is small and he’s opinionated, he invariably gets involved in the production of Capital. He writes, dreams up pithy headlines, sells advertising, sings, teaches and occasionally reviews theatre. He’d prefer his official title to be ‘taonga’ but no one agreed.

Vanessa is a Kiwi freelance journalist and editor based in Berlin. She runs a blog for a volunteer organisation that just won an intercultural innovation award from the United Nations for its work welcoming Berlin’s newcomers, including refugees.

JEREMY HOOPER Ph oto g r aph er

B E T H R O SE Journ a li st

Jeremy is a lifestyle documenter born and raised in the capital. He's passionate about capturing moments of adventure and being in the midst of it.

Beth loves writing about people and issues. Relocating from London in 2011, she now spends most of the year writing in Wellington and the rest of the time travelling the country in a sixmetre converted bus, finding out lots of interesting stuff from the boltholes of NZ.

Stockists Pick up your Capital in New World, Countdown and Pak’n’ Save supermarkets, Moore Wilson's, Unity Books, Commonsense Organics, Magnetix, City Cards & Mags, Take Note, Whitcoulls, Wellington Airport, Interislander and other discerning region-wide outlets. Ask for Capital magazine by name. Distribution: john@capitalmag.co.nz.

Submissions We welcome freelance art, photo and story submissions. However we cannot reply personally to unsuccessful pitches.

Thanks Rachel & Sarah Caughley | Hannah Boekhurst

F E B RUA RY 1 0 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; MA RC H 04 2 01 7

F R I N G E .C O. N Z

CONTENTS

12 LETTERS 14 CHATTER 16 NEWS BRIEFS

TALES OF THE CIT Y She co-owns a cafe overlooking Lyall Bay – of course Bronwyn Kelly was going to take up surfing

A NEST OUT WEST Wellington’s wild west is only 20 minutes from the city yet feels a world away

22 CULTURE Art, dance, film, theatre, design – we have our finger on the Wellington pulse

MORE IS LESTER A new year, a new mayor – Justin Lester gets into gear

1 DAY 3 DAY 9 DAY WINTER SEASON LOCAL SENIOR FAMILY VISITOR

WIN

C OLOURS OF THE WIND

FISHY BUSINESS

On the off chance the weather turns bad over summer (ahem) we have a picture for the kids big and small to colour in

This month’s ocean dweller – the snapper

SONIC BO ON There are music gigs aplenty across the region this season – we’ve got their details

Buy your licence online or at stores nationwide. Visit fishandgame.org.nz for all the details.

There are nine different licence types designed to suit your fishing needs. Whether you’re out there for a day or the whole year, you’ll find the right licence for you. 10

fishandgame.org.nz

CONTENTS

PARED-BACK RETREAT

FASHION – HOLIDAY HOME Me-time, midnight wine. Lazy fits, thigh-high splits.

There are only 286 houses in Riversdale – one bach is now the summer oasis of one Wellington family

EDIBLES

RUN FOR THE HILLS In Denmark Vanessa Ellingham discovers a grassy knoll is considered a mountain to the locals

SHEARERS’ TABLE Picnic weather is upon us so lather up your baguette with avocado and feta and break out the salmon

LIQUID BRIEFS

SUMMER READS Magnetic Migratory Bird Woman A summer short story from PhD student Valerie Arvidson

SPORTS BRIEFS

CANOE C OMMU TE A pacific wanderer has a look at Ailuk – a Marshall Island worth visiting

107 110 112 104

WELLY ANGEL TORQUE TALK BABY, BABY DIRECTORY

116

NEW

GROUPIES See how they run Our new sign-off – groups and the activities they grapple with

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BEAUTIFULLY EXECUTED COMEDY.

LETTERS

BISHOP SURPRISE What an interesting man the Bishop Of Wellington is. I very much enjoyed reading about him in your recent magazine (issue #37, p 16 December) He certainly brings a varied background to the position. I assume he is a very different sort of Bishop also? B Pym, Wellington Our photographer was certainly intrigued at his first meeting with a Bishop. Ed CHEEKY PIWAKAWAKA Thank you for that Christmas decoration in your current issue (issue#37 p 41). My granddaughters happily spent an afternoon with me, making a flock of them, one for each member of their families. It was a great help. S Todd, Hataitai MORE THAN RETSINA

PRESENTS

T H E

MIKAD

25 -2 F E B

M A R

THE OPERA HOUSE

Thank you for the column about Greek wine (issue #36, November p 60). My grandmother was from Greece. Although not much was mentioned during my childhood about my Greek heritage, I have made several trips there and have got to know some of the family still there. I find it sad to always hear in the news of their current troubles, and it was fun to read something new and interesting about their wine industry. I shall try and sample them. Hellenic fan (by email) DREARY THEATRE I note in your current issue (issue #38) a letter writer who suggests a feature looking at the theatre offering in Wellington. I too am disappointed in the theatre offered in the capital and would welcome a feature that looked at where and why the Creative New Zealand support is allocated. Name and address supplied, Wellington

You can send letters to editor@capitalmag.co.nz with the subject line Letters to Ed

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RD E R S E C TCI H OA N THT EE A

DAIRY ME

NEW

VINYL FRONTIER The turntables have been turned, with records outselling digital downloads in the UK for the first time since iTunes was launched there in 2004. Steven Hinderwell at Slow Boat Records on Cuba St isn’t surprised. “There’s a whole new generation buying vinyl that previously wasn’t,” he reasons. “Major record companies have started embracing vinyl a lot.” The revolution includes reissuing of artists previously unavailable in LP form. “It’s all part of that wave that they’re jumping on,” he says.

ANISH PATEL

WE BLUSHED, TO O

33 Manners St Bevs Candy Bar & Lotto

If you’re after something a bit different from dinner and a movie on Valentine’s Day, Space Place at the Carter Observatory is spruiking couples packages “Aphrodite’s Delight”. You get a planetarium show through the Milky Way that somehow also covers the romances of Greek mythology, sweet treats, a glass of something bubbly, and, if you’re still upright, a look through the telescope. That’ll be 90 bucks, or $70 for teetotallers. Or you can go to the 4th Annual Public Sector Women In Leadership Summit at Te Papa. Over to you.

What is your favourite lolly? Stawberry gummies. Average hours worked each day? 7am–7pm Who works with you at the dairy? It's me and my Mum. Some days are more boring than others, especially when no one is around. The endless supply of food is definitely a highlight!

C HAT T E R

WELLY WORDS

SANTA WAITS FOR NO ONE Picture this – you’re on a long drive back to Wellington from New Plymouth, your mouth is dry and you need a 10 minute stop to quench your thirst. Levin hoves into view so you stop and park on the main street. Oh the joys of parking in a small town. You go off to find a drink and... two and a half hours later you leave town because you’ve parked on the route of the local Santa Parade and can’t get out of the park. Our intrepid Wellyworder keeps a full water bottle in her car at all times now. First world problems eh.

BLIND AMBITION

T E L LY VISION As Eleanor Catton is busy turning her Booker-prize-winning novel The Luminaries into a miniseries, another pre-Treaty TV tale is being honoured in Wellington. Anya Tate-Manning’s Waikouaiti Whalers was awarded the annual David Carson-Parker Embassy Prize in Scriptwriting by Victoria University. Described as gripping, and visceral, the script depicts real historical Māori and Pakeha characters grappling with uncertain times.

So if you’re blind and live alone – how do you go supermarket shopping? A Wellyworder who shops at Newtown New World has discovered that a staff member is on hand to help out if the visually impaired need assistance. Staff have been observed, reading out ingredients, joking about best prices and offering cooking advice. Meanwhile the beautifully behaved guide dog sniffs the lower shelves but never licks. The whole scene is full of good will.

MO OD FOR THOUGHT

IT'S COOL TO KORERO It’s summer – that means sunburn (or more likely wind/sand burn but let’s not get bogged down in detail) and so that means... Be careful under the burning sun! 'Kia tūpato i raro i te rā tīkākā!'

Sharing your most intimate thoughts with a Moon Turtle sounds like quite a pleasant, if slightly odd, thing to do, doesn’t it? It’s actually pretty straightforward. Moon Turtle is a 21-day mood journal designed by locals Anna Birchall and Imogen Holmstead-Scott to help people manage their mental health. The book allows users to chart factors such as mood, thoughts, behaviour and sleep. It has already been used as a resource in schools. Moon Turtle Junior was recently launched for 8–12-year-olds.Visit moonturtlenz.com

NEWS BRIEFS

PA R A M O U N T CONCERN The deadline private treaty for the sale of Wellington’s iconic Paramount building has closed and it’s still uncertain whether the cinema will be around to celebrate its 100th birthday in August. “It is too early to determine what the sale of the building would mean for the future of the cinema,” says Director and owner Janet Carson. Consent has been granted for future owners to develop four-star hotel apartment accommodation on the premises. In the meantime, it’s business as usual for the independent cinema, says Carson.

FLY, MY PRET TIES

A FREE LUNCH

AUSSIE, OI!

Conservation efforts appear to be working. According to the Greater Wellington Regional Council’s most recent count, there was a big increase in native forest bird numbers between 2011 and 2015. Kaka and kakariki in particular are taking off. “Kaka are now regular visitors to suburban habitats in western and southern parts of Wellington City, and expanding their range eastwards,” says Team Leader of Urban Ecology Myfanwy Emeny. Don’t be surprised to spot a few more tieke (saddleback) flitting about the place too. Their numbers have jumped back up after a three-year slump.

Local Heroes have been honoured in the 2017 New Zealander of the Year Awards. Porirua mum Shari-ana Clifford was one of 35 Wellingtonians who earned a medal for their service to the community. Clifford is responsible for an initiative to provide a basic lunch to Porirua school pupils who might otherwise go without. Local Hero is one of six categories in the 2017 awards, the overall winners of which will be announced at a gala in February.

“We want to showcase the Wellington region as the hi-tech capital, and as a great place to live and work,” says Gerard Quinn, chief executive of Grow Wellington. The agency presented its pitch at Sydney’s New Zealand Jobs Expo in December, in a bid to entice skilled Aussies and NZ expats to the capital. Quinn says there are more than 2,000 jobs currently up for grabs in sectors such as ICT, engineering, healthcare, accounting and government.

MATIU/SOMES ISLAND KAITOKE REGIONAL PARK OTARI-WILTON’S BUSH PUKAHA MOUNT BRUCE STAGLANDS WILDLIFE RESERVE WELLINGTON ZOO ZEALANDIA BATTLE HILL FARM FOREST PARK WELLINGTON BOTANIC GARDEN NGA MANU NATURE RESERVE

WELLINGTON WILDTHINGS.COM

NEWS BRIEFS

T OA S T T O T H E C OA S T Business is booming on the Coast. The Kapiti district experienced a 3.1% increase in economic growth in the year to September 2016. The boost includes a 14% increase in visitor guest nights (more than double national average figures), and a 2.9% increase in retail trade, compared with 2.7% nationally. Group Manager for Strategy and Planning Sarah Stevenson credits the diverse and thriving business community. Plus, she says, “Our close proximity to Wellington will be significantly enhanced once the Mackay’s to Peka Peka Expressway opens.”

TRANSPORT YOURSELF

WHAKARONGO MAI

CRIME WATCH

Let’s Get Wellington Moving is entering a new phase of its mission to transform the city’s transport system, with workshops planned for February. Applications have flooded in online and a wide range of people will be selected. The chosen ones will be taken through a series of possible scenarios at the halfday workshops. Their feedback will be used to create a shortlist of possible solutions, which will be presented for public consultation.

Ch-ch-ch-change is in the air for Ngā Taonga Sound & Vision. The country’s sound archives are poised to move to a new purpose-built, climate-controlled vault at Avalon Studios in Lower Hutt. The collection has been in makeshift storage in Christchurch since the 2011 quake. A collection now housed in Auckland will also move to Avalon. Originally the New Zealand Film Archive, Ngā Taonga incorporated Radio New Zealand’s sound archive in 2012 and TVNZ’s archive in 2014.

Farmers are being urged to report all thefts to police, in an effort to crack down on widespread theft and poaching in rural areas. Insurance company FMG has paid out $440,000 on thefts in rural Wairarapa and Tararua in the past five years, and many more incidents are not being reported. Federated Farmers’ recent survey of more than 1,000 Kiwi farmers showed 26% had had stock stolen in the last five years. Nearly 60% said they had not reported that theft to police.

Spectacular scenery, gourmet food and warm Wairarapa hospitality. Discover why this three-day walk is renowned as the best-loved private walk in New Zealand.

www.toracoastalwalk.nz

NEW PRODUCTS

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S ea foa m 1. Large cold pressed juice – $11.50 – Havana Brothers Bakehouse 2. Stand straw hat – $110 – Mandatory 3. Bamboo vintage plate – $16.50 – Pukeko 4. Fish and chips – $15 – Mt Vic Chippery 5. Swimwear crop top – $78 – Thunderpants 6. Two scoops of ice cream in waffle cone – $4.50 – Shake 7. Soothe tube – $25 – Small Acorns 8. My Girl Quay Eyewear – $65 – Cranfields 9. Swimwear high-waisted pant - $68 - Thunderpants 10. Pumpt mini donut inflatable – $45 – Tea Pea 11. Fawn leather shoulder bag – $90 – Trade Aid 12. The Beach People round towel – $149 – Small Acorns

SECTION HEADER

Market 3.8km / 15 mins

Dairy 1km / 4 mins

Library 2.9km / 11.5 mins

Playground 3.3km / 13 mins

Cafe 500m / 2 mins

School 1.4km / 5.5 mins

Doctor 2.5km / 10 mins

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Go places by bike. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll always be parking at the door. #TheWellingtonWay wellington.govt.nz/cycling

SECTION HEADER

TA L E S O F T H E C I T Y

Shred ’til ya d e a d WRITTEN BY ALEX SCOTT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY RHETT GOODLEY-HORNBLOW

COFFEE Havana

EASY EATS Sushi

DESTINATION Hamburg

READS Fantasy

DREAM JOB

Orthopaedic surgeon

For years, learning to surf was a pipe dream for BRONWYN KELLY. Now she can hit the waves like a boss (literally).

“W

ork hard, play hard.” That’s Bronwyn Kelly’s motto. And she lives by it – she keeps her surfboard and wetsuit in her office at Maranui Cafe in Lyall Bay, where she’s a co-owner. Bronwyn first picked up a board about five years ago, and loves the fact you don’t need to be a pro to get stuck in. “Although, I’ve got one finger crossed,” she laughs. For her, it’s all about the thrill and the challenge. “Being in the water makes other day-to-day concerns feel not so important. Surfing is immediate and you have to respond to your surroundings.” It’s a similar story on the floor at Maranui, where she never knows exactly what the day will throw at her. From paperwork to waiting tables, flipping pancakes and catching up with customers, “I love the diversity of my work,” she says. Even if the chefs give her a hard time for always burning the toast. Aside from being a stone’s throw from the swells, Bronwyn says there are other perks to the job. “Being able to eat great, healthy, delicious food daily is awesome. Some days I need to restrain myself.” There’s also the commute from her home in Island Bay. “It takes about four minutes to drive to work around the South Coast, which is the best start to the day.” In the evening, a favourite haunt is Italian restaurant Cicio Cacio in Newtown. “I always feel like I’m walking into a restaurant on the other side of the world. It’s fun,

intimate, authentic and delicious.” Brownyn lived in Melrose until about four years ago, and while she misses the sounds of the howler monkeys her 11-year-old twin boys Alby and Lukas make sure it never gets too quiet for her. Her dream is to one day own a house made from converted containers, right on the water. When she’s not working or being a taxi service for her boys, Bronwyn is always on the lookout for that perfect surf spot. “I have an old beat-up van which has done me proud over the years, taking me to Castlepoint or Tora so I can indulge in some surfing and campfire time,” she says. “I usually try to incorporate an overnight trip with my boyfriend or surfing mates.” It’s never hard to find keen companions for road trips. Just use the words “glass, swell and offshore” within earshot of other surfers. “Their eyes go all twitchy and you can see them calculating how long it will take to get their board and wetsuit in the car.” While it’s still a male-dominated sport, Bronwyn believes women are making their presence felt. “The World Surf League tour is massive and gives the females as much credence as the males – and they shred as good as any man!” She’s also noticed more mums showing their girls how it’s done, and there’s no age limit on testing the waters. “The older I get, the more it dawns on me that you have to live for today and make time to enjoy being above ground,” she says. 21

CULTURE

FOLLOW THE LEADER Not to be confused with the manager of the same name in TV show Flight of the Conchords, Murray Hewitt is an internationally-exhibited video artist, and Dowse Art Museum technician. Commissioned for the Common Ground Hutt Public Art Festival (25 February–March 4), his video work A Rising Gale follows a drone flying along the Hutt River and over bore sites (including Matiu-Somes Island) that connect an underground aquifier with Wellington’s pumping station. Watch it on giant screens at various outdoor sites (8pm, 25–26 February; 2–4 March) accompanied by live music.

WAKE-UP CALL

HERE’S TO 70 MORE

SPACE TO CHASE

If you were born in the Chinese Year of the Rooster, you apparently wake early, and carefully groom yourself. Preen yourself for the Chinese New Year Festival (11–12 February), which includes a ticketed East Meets West show by performers from China, featuring fire-breathing puppets, acrobats, and martial arts. Plus there’s a food market, free cultural performances, and a street parade.

Seventy years to the day after its firstever concert, the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra is holding a free concert on 6 March at the Michael Fowler Centre, with music selected by orchestra members from concerts performed throughout its history. “The NZSO turning 70 is a bit like a person turning 70,” says Bruce McKinnon, its Principal Percussionist since 1989. “It has survived a few health scares and everyone’s grateful that it’s still going. Jokes aside, it’s healthier than ever before.”

Released on Waitangi weekend, Wellington director Matt Murphy’s film Pork Pie is a remake of his father Geoff’s 1981 classic Goodbye Pork Pie, with brother Miles Murphy as second-unit director and sister Robin Murphy as location manager. Filming in Wellington over three weekends in March and April, they shot a police car chasing the signature yellow mini up the steps of the railway station. Robin worked with organisations including Screen Wellington and Kiwi Rail to get the necessary roads closed.

Showroom & Workshop

SECTION HEADER

See us at our Open Day Saturday 11 March 2017

For more details go to www.st-marks.school.nz2 3

Proud supporter of a festival that is out of this world!

CULTURE

PERSPECTIVE ON BUGS Dr Phil Sirvid’s fascination with bugs began, at age five, with rearing Emperor Gum moths from caterpillars. Pushing past a frightening childhood run-in with a large spider, he’s now Te Papa’s entomologist: essentially, its expert on all things creepy-crawly. This includes overseeing 10,000 specimens and taking calls from the public about unusual finds. Sirvid was a science advisor on Te Papa and Weta Workshop’s new interactive, large-scale exhibition Bug Lab: from the perspective of bugs, not humans. “You’ll see bugs in a whole new way,” Sirvil says.

FLASH THE FLESH

SILVER LINING

The above photo of a model flaunting her Jantzen Swimwear one-piece while standing on a surfboard was taken in 1932 or 1933 by Gordon Burt, Wellington’s leading commercial photographer of his day. See New Zealandmade (or designed) bathers and bikinis, swimsuits and sundresses, playsuits and parasols at free Dowse exhibition At the Beach — 100 Years of Summer Fashion in NZ (until 19 February). Curator Doris de Pont from the NZ Fashion Museum wrote the introduction to the eponymous coffee-table book.

After the earthquake, mosaic artist Rachel Silver heard Willis Street tea shop T2 had three bags of broken china. She’s since collected those, a box from Relics Antiques, and would like donations of broken ceramic, china, crockery, metal etcetera to use in a council-approved mosaic somewhere in the central city. Yes, she does pick-ups. “People think I’m a rubbish collector.”

JAM-B OREE Children can join together 2000 pink jigsaw-like pieces to form a sculpture at the 25th Festival of the Elements. The Waitangi Day celebration of Porirua’s diversity draws around 30,000 people to Te Rauparaha Park. The Porirua Community Arts Council’s new partner Porirua City Council is helping stage it, now that longtime organiser Margaret Armour has stepped down. As well as food and craft stalls, there are kids’ workshops, and the Porirua Skate Jam contest returns.

CULTURE DIRECTORY

NAMBASSA TO NOW @ THE ARCHIVE CINEMA A summer of Kiwi music films and documentaries is on the cinema screen at the audiovisual archive. From 70s’ hippie fests to the dance parties of the 90s’, plus the artists who gave New Zealand its music.

11 Jan to 25 Feb 84 Taranaki St www.ngataonga.org.nz/events

FR E NCH F I L M FE S TIVA L

CATWALK TO COVER: A Front Row Seat A fascinating insight into the fashion shows of London, Paris, Milan and New York, direct from London’s Fashion Museum. Exclusively at Expressions Whirinaki Arts and Entertainment Centre

26 November – 12 February 2017 Entry by donation Open daily 9am – 4pm 836 Fergusson Drive Upper Hutt

A R TIST S O PEN S T UDIO S WHANGANUI

The Alliance Française French Film Festival has firmly established itself as the largest French cultural event on New Zealand’s national cultural calendar. The 2017 edition will showcase the best of French-language cinema in 12 cities across New Zealand, launching in Wellington on 1 March.

1 - 22 March 2017 Embassy Theatre frenchfilmfestival.co.nz

A diverse taster of Whanganui’s expanding arts community: from glass to photography; ceramics to painting. Open Studios over the weekends, artist led workshops and gallery floor talks weekdays. Image: Amy Fitzgerald

24 March- 2nd April www.openstudios.co.nz 26

LAST LEGS After a sell-out World Premiere season in 2016, Roger Hall’s smash hit Last Legs is back for a limited return season! Set in an up-market retirement community, the Cambridge, with a cast of recognisably funny and fallible characters, Last Legs takes aim at our misjudgments, quirks and misdemeanours.

28 January – 18 Feb 2017 1 Taranaki St circa.co.nz 04 801 7992

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9 October 2016 – 12 February 2017 James Ormsby Uncle’s Examination (Large Drawing #23) 2009. Graphite, pigment and wax on paper. Courtesy the artist and PAULNACHE, Gisborne. Artwork photography by Mark Tantrum.

www.pataka.org.nz

CULTURE

UNDERGROUND S T O RY

BE S Q UA R E

By Sarah Lang

Discover secrets about Wellington’s past as Te Rākau Theatre performs its quartet of plays “The Undertow” at Te Papa’s Soundings Theatre (19–29 January) while Ngati Toa is the museum’s iwi-in-residence. Get tickets for two plays in one day, or do a four-play, one-day marathon (the longest play is 90 minutes) with short breaks between. The Ragged (set in post-Treaty 1841) and Dog & Bone (set in 1869 when the media denigrated Māori) were staged last year. This will be the premiere of Public Works – set in 1917, when legislation strips land from Māori soldiers – and The Landeaters, set in 2017, when a Māori Vietnam veteran’s underground bunker stymies a property developer. “Seven generations come and go but the land stays,” says playwright Helen Pearse-Otene, whose partner in work and life, Jim Moriarty, directs. “My inspiration was seeing tourists photograph some carved wooden posts, then discovering they were pou whenua which marked important historical places in Wellington. There’s so much history I didn’t know.” Sources included diaries, letters, newspapers, government records, and her own interviews with Vietnam veterans (for her psychology master’s thesis). She’s also a facilitator for Te Rākau’s residential arts-therapy programme Theatre Marae, in marae, prisons and youth centres.

Quite the wanderer, Summer Shakespeare’s annual production has roamed the city for 34 years, from the Victoria University quad, Te Papa and a rugby field to (for the past five years) the Botanic Garden’s Dell. The location for this year’s production All's Well That Ends Well (17 February–4 March) is a goodie, tucked under the sails at Civic Square, with bleacher seating, and space on surrounding grass. The plan is to attract passers-by, build some buzz, and provide hard surfaces for all the skateboards, scooters, bikes and other wheeled objects in the production, which are intended to support council promotion of cycling. Guest director Peter Hambleton (above) wants to hail the ways we get around Wellington, especially on wheels. “I’m also interested in doing Shakespeare in unexpected places. This is set in ye-oldeworlde France and Italy, but in a way it’s also set in Civic Square, Wellington in February and March 2017. Just bring your imagination.” The coming-of-age tragi-comedy sees lowborn Helena (Harriet Prebble) desperate to marry unrequited love Bertram (Hamish Boyle). On 9 February, VUP publishes a long-awaited book, full of photos and memories collected by director, actor and musician David Lawrence, former co-chair of the Summer Shakespeare Trust.

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OPINION

More is Lester New mayor JUSTIN LESTER writes that we need to future-proof Wellington.

017 is shaping up to be a very exciting year for Wellington. Our city is humming, our economy is growing strongly, and there's a real buzz about the city. I see enormous opportunities in front of us in 2017, and my job and our Council's job is to help our city take advantage of them. In this first year of our triennium, we've got a busy programme of work ahead. We're investing in a stronger local economy, taking steps to tackle the housing crisis and fix transport to get our city moving. In the election campaign last year, I personally called or door-knocked 11,000 Wellingtonians and spoke to them about their lives, their hopes and aspirations for our city. Remarkably, from almost all the people I spoke to, the message was the same. Everyone you speak to loves Wellington. They love its energy, that it's compact, that it's quirky. They love its culture and its excitement. They love that it’s open and tolerant. We will never be the biggest city in the country, but we can be the best place to live, work and raise a family. We won't be Auckland, but we don't want to be. Instead, we can be the Melbourne to Auckland's Sydney, the San Francisco to its Los Angeles – the vibrant city that captures people's imaginations. In this New Year, it's time to build on what we love about Wellington and to get to work making it even better. Last year didn't end the way we expected it to. I certainly didn't expect my first few weeks as Mayor to be spent dealing with the biggest earthquake to strike Wellington in 100 years. The night of the earthquake I'd remarked to my wife that things finally seemed to be quietening down a little after all the hectic rush of the election campaign and the inauguration of our new council. Probably a lesson never to count your chickens. I'm immensely proud of how Wellington has reacted to the earthquakes. People have looked after each other, risen to the challenge and got on with getting our city back on its feet. I was especially struck by the professionalism and dedication of our emergency responders. From our police and firefighters, through to the amazing team at the Wellington

Regional Emergency Management Office who worked around the clock for days on end to provide information and updates. A big part of 2017 for us at Council is going to be working to make sure that we learn the lessons from this earthquake. We really did dodge a bullet in this earthquake – the damage could have been much worse and we are very fortunate that no one in Wellington was killed. We need to realise that we aren't bullet-proof, though, and that there are likely to be large aftershocks and even larger earthquakes in the future. We need to remember that this most recent quake was the result of a movement on a fault on the South Island, not a movement of the Wellington fault. An earthquake on that fault is still coming, and it’s likely to be much more damaging and disruptive than this one. That means we need to start work now on preparing for the future and making sure our city is more resilient. This is going to be a priority for us this year. We need to be making the right investments in our infrastructure – our water and electricity systems, our roading and transport networks, and our built environment. Thankfully, most of these held up relatively well in this earthquake. Most Wellingtonians didn't lose water or power for example, and the vast majority of our buildings performed well and suffered very little damage. But there are lessons to be learnt. The first is that our city's roading infrastructure is fragile, as we saw when heavy rain after the earthquakes closed state highways 1 and 2. That's why we are investing urgently in major transport projects like the Petone-Grenada Link and Transmission Gully. These projects will mean more approaches to and from the city in the event of an emergency. Council is also urgently producing a list of other resilience investments we can make. Going into 2017, our city is well placed and we've got some exciting opportunities in front of us. It's our job to make sure we seize them, and that we are investing to make sure our city can hold up, whatever the future throws at us. It was a busy and difficult end to 2016, but in 2017 things are looking bright.

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GOING LIVE Written by Sarah Lang | Photography by Anna Briggs Fast-rising vocal talent Mo Ete grew up singing hymns at a Newtown church where her grandfather was the minister. “I’d grasped harmonies by age eight.” Ete, whose Maori mum and Samoan father had five children, decided against music school. “I preferred to keep my music intuitive. But I’d always done drama too, so studied at Toi Whakaari.” Now 27, she’s acted in theatre and film, and written plays for children and adults. “But music’s my focus this year.” At gigs by her three-piece R&B/electronica act A Girl Named Mo, Slade Butler and Marcus Gurtner build on beats that Ete created on her computer. In October, the trio recorded 12 tracks for their debut album in six sell-out multimedia shows at BATS. “It really felt like Wellington was behind the project – and recording live quietened my perfectionist thoughts.” Platonic\Romantic is set for release early this year by Dream 1 Media, which courted the trio and released its debut single (and student-radio hit) Who They Say You Are in 2015. In August, the trio joined Fly My Pretties – a fluid collective of musicians who record albums live – for nine gigs in Wellington and Auckland. “Suddenly I was playing with musicians I’d idolised.” The resulting FMP album String Theory was released in November. This summer, A Girl Named Mo joins Fly My Pretties for its first national tour in four years, including a Botanic Garden gig (22 January) in Wellington. Ete’s also curating the fourth annual Putahi Festival (22–25 February, Kelburn). The free-to-view showcase of (mainly theatrical) works-in-progress is staged by Victoria University’s theatre programme and Māori-theatre collective Te Pūtahitanga-A-Te-Rehia. Ete co-curated last year with Hone Kouka and, going solo this year, is including more visual arts, dance and film. “Think film scenes, and half-finished artworks and dances. Come check it out.”

CULTURE

D I G I TA L TROLL After its gold-rush play The Devil's Half-Acre sold out at the 2016 NZ Festival, Wellington’s Trick of the Light Theatre performs new play Troll [a work in progress] (12–15 February, 17 Tory St) for a koha as part of the Fringe Festival. Known for their puppetry, paper art and shadowplay, Hannah Smith and Ralph McCubbin Howell have created an unsettling “wi-fi fable” of the digital age, where something’s scratching behind the power sockets. The Fringe (10 February–4 March) has 140 shows: a quarter are international including Love, Loss and Lattes (left) and a third are free.

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JAPANESE CRUSH

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Adventure film L'Odyssée – based on the life of French ocean explorer, conservationist, photographer and author Jacques Cousteau – opens the Alliance Francaise French Film Festival (The Embassy, 1–22 March). The 35 films include many strong dramas. New festival director Dorothée Basel, who moved to Auckland in 2015 with her Kiwi husband, has worked on the French Film Festival in Berlin. “It’s actually much smaller there than here.” Here, it’s the biggest in New Zealand’s increasingly crowded field of foreign-language film festivals.

Porirua’s own soprano Amelia Berry, who regularly returns from New York to perform with the NZ Opera, will sing the part of schoolgirl Yum-Yum in The Mikado (Opera House, 25 February-2 March). Gilbert & Sullivan's comic masterpiece, which debuted in 1885, is transplanted to modern-day Japan, with bass James Clayton as the emperor and Jonathan Abernethy as Nanki-Poo, every schoolgirl’s pop-star crush. Byron Coll – All Blacks superfan Tim in the Mastercard TV ads – makes his opera debut as tailor Ko-Ko.

Expressions Whirinaki in Upper Hutt has scored the only New Zealand showing (until 12 February) of the Catwalk to Cover exhibition created and toured by London’s Fashion and Textile Museum. Spot Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer among the models in 100 photographs captured beside the catwalk and backstage. Te Papa has loaned designer gowns, including some by Versace.

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F E AT U R E

S I M P LY ST U N N I N G M E AT S

WIN!

Colours of the wind I L LU ST R AT E D BY GW I L

For Summer, we got local artist and designer Gwil to create a unique, Wellington-themed illustration. Colour it, send it and go into the draw to win one of two creative prize packs worth $750, thanks to Gordon Harris. We'll pick a winner from each the youth (13 & below) and adult categories in March 2017.

Please post entries to: PO Box 9202 Marion Square Wellington 6141

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You can download and print extra copies at www.capitalmag.co.nz

WELLINGTON, PORIRUA, PALMERSTON NORTH

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F E AT U R E

A nest o u t west W R I T T E N BY B E T H RO S E P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J E R E M Y H O O P E R

How can a settlement so close to the capital city feel so far away? This may well be Makara’s greatest asset; the residents are getting away from it all, just a twenty-minute drive from town. Beth Rose talks to the residents and finds out how it all began.

M a ka ra : By t h e n u m b e r s • • • •

Located at the western edge of Wellington. 17.2 kilometres from Lambton Quay. A combined population of 783 people with Ohariu. Home to 62 windmills, each generating enough electricity for 1,000 households per year.

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hen the wind’s switched off and the sun comes out, Wellingtonians join in deafening chorus: “You can’t beat Wellington on a good day.” Of all the suburbs in Wellington, Makara may have the greatest claim to this boast. On such a day, the stony beach hosts families eating ice-creams, people walking their dogs and boaties returning with their catch – everyone making the most of the weather in that urgent way that Wellingtonians are expert at. Day-trippers to Makara come for the horseriding, mountain-biking, fishing, diving and hunting. For a rural suburb, well within acceptable commuting distance from the capital and offering the quarter-acre dream, the resident population remains surprisingly steady. Perhaps, for city dwellers, enjoying the feeling of isolation is a weekend, fair-weather pursuit. It’s likely the locals would prefer to keep it so, as the village feel is part of the draw, and on less sunny days, it takes a certain grit to live in Wellington’s wild west. A community potluck dinner awaits those who decide to make Makara home. Newcomers are welcomed by locals, because new faces offer new conversations, new skills and new possibilities. A round-robin email group makes all the arrangements for these community gatherings, and this communication channel represents more than just a social network. Haydon and Suzanne Miller set up the Makara email group as a catch-all online community notice board. It operates without much regularity, but keeps people informed and safe. Locals can warn of wandering stock, pass on traffic news – which was vital during the construction of the nearby wind farm – and alert their neighbours to slips and roadblocks after heavy weather. A rallying email can solve an issue al-

most as quickly as it arose; when all that’s needed is a chainsaw, a trailer and a few volunteers to clear some overnight debris. Suzanne describes this approach to life in Makara as business as usual; “it’s like driving a car, you don’t really think about it, it’s second nature.” And the teamwork on display in Makara today is by no means something new. Selfreliance and pitching in for the common good would have been equally ordinary, if not more so, when the prospect of gold lured settlers to the region in the mid- to late 1800s. The only difference these days is that the grapevine is faster and more accessible, and you can also find out what time the yoga class starts or if anyone wants to buy your second-hand bike. The making of Makara is a typical piece of New Zealand colonial history. There was a small amount of gold, but the rush was short-lived. Farming has seen the settlement through to the current day. Terawhiti is one of New Zealand’s largest and oldest stations, currently covering around 13,000 acres. Irishman James McMenamen (also known as ‘Terawhiti Jack’) formed the station, having arrived in the area with a small herd of cattle more than 160 years ago. Terawhiti station remains in the hands of his descendants and, over the years, it has prospered from cattle, sheep and, more recently, wind. In 2009, Meridian Energy built more than 60 wind turbines across Terawhiti Station and Makara Farm. The turbines produce enough energy to power all the houses in Wellington, the Hutt Valley and Porirua. Those who’ve completed the Department of Conservation’s Makara Walkway – a 6km loop track from Makara Beach that takes in the area’s signature high cliffs – will appreciate why wind is farmed at this particular the vantage point.

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With settlement came services to support the gold mining and farming communities. Makara Model School recently celebrated its 150th year, and in its lifetime it has offered some unique gifts to Wellington, not least its war efforts with the Red Cross, which earned it the Alexander Gillies medal from 1939/44. “During the Second World War, children at the school made 1,200 Christmas presents for the five orphanages in Wellington,” explains their Principal, Gail Dewar. The School is called “model” because it’s associated with Victoria University of Wellington and, since the 70s, it has hosted teachers-in-training, providing them with experience working in a pri-

mary school environment. The school is also a Civil Defence centre and offered shelter to people from the beach area after the 14 November earthquake. Emergency preparedness is part of the traditional way of living that survives in Makara, leaving little need for much in the way of additional precautions. Heating comes from local wood supplies, rainwater is stored in tanks, most folk have a vegetable garden and a good proportion of them keep chickens. Then there’s the fishing, and there is free meat to be had in the hills from wild pigs and goats. If the roads were out, there are many stables – it might be the wild west, but it certainly ain’t no one-horse town.

Rebecca Wilson “In Makara, nature is in charge,” according to Rebecca Wilson, a landscape architect who designs beautiful, often hardy outside spaces from her home in Makara Beach. Since moving her life and business there from Wellington eight years ago, Rebecca has acquired an appreciation for Makara’s micro-climate. An early weather warning came when Rebecca was planting out the borders of her house. An elderly local woman asked, “What are you doing there, dear?” “Making a garden,” replied Rebecca. “Good luck,” said the woman, and she meant it. But with every weather-related setback, Rebecca grew more persistent and resilient, along with her garden. Within the first year she began the Makara gardening club. Rebecca helps with the planning, club members stump up the cash for plants and supplies, and the whole group pitches in with their spades and gumboots to create Makaraproof gardens for every member. As a community, Makara knows how to draw on its local resources. Rebecca became chair of

the volunteer estuary restoration group called the ‘Makara Carpas’. The name, she says, is ironic. “Macrocarpa trees are not the sort of thing we want to be planting here. However, the ones that are already here are precious, as they’re hosting three different species of shag colonies. If it wasn’t for the trees hanging in there in the estuary, there’d be nowhere for those birds to roost.” The Makara Carpas are cleaning up the stream and estuary, putting in native plants to create shade and breeding grounds for fish and eels. Rebecca orders the plants, she walks along the estuary to see how many are needed, and the whole group gathers for planting days. “The latest thrust,” says Rebecca, “is encouraging landowners to fence and plant their sections of the stream. We’ve done a couple of public meetings and we were hoping for two or three landowners, but we’ve got 14 interested. The time is ripe, in fact riparian, for stream restoration."

Rebecca Wilson

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Mark and Ve r o n i c a R a u k a w a

“It’s 50 kina and six crayfish per person.” Scuba diver Mark Raukawa doesn’t just know the catch rules; he and his wife Veronica will soon be helping enforce them at Makara Beach. The couple are in training to be Honorary Fisheries Officers. Neither Mark nor Veronica Raukawa knew how to snorkel before moving to Makara. “I’m a King Country girl, from Te Kuiti,” says Veronica. “I moved to Taihape. That’s where I met Mark, and he’s a country boy too.” The family came to Wellington via Mark’s job as a truck driver, but city life wasn’t enough and Mark started looking at rural houses on the internet. The move to Makara was a no-brainer – and that was ten years ago. In the early days, the couple would sit on the beach and watch the boats go in and out, and occasionally local divers would give them seafood. This inspired them to buy a boat and get involved. Mark’s dive instructor became his dive buddy, and on

any fine day, they’re in the water harvesting kina and crayfish. They also free-dive for paua, and Veronica knows a good spot for whitebaiting on the nearby stream. The catch comes in handy at family gatherings; Mark and Veronica have three children and thirteen grandchildren. “Quite often we’ll shell the kina and put them in the freezer, so if there’s a wedding or a tangi, we can take what we’ve stored. My family live inland, so they don’t see much seafood and they enjoy it when we bring some with us,” says Mark. As far as self-sufficiency goes, Mark and Veronica are doing all right. A chemical-free garden at the back of the property hosts plenty of veges and Veronica has created liquid compost from kitchen waste and seafood scraps, which can be used as fertiliser. Chickens provide eggs and the pet goat keeps the lawns mowed.

Mark & Veronica Raukawa

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Madame Madison and Becky Gill

In 2007, Terawhiti Farm sold off their horses, including an ugly-duckling foal called Maddie. “We were told that if no one wanted her, she’d be on the dog tucker truck. So we took her,” explains owner Becky Gill. And, with this uncertain start behind her, Madame Madison went on to repay the lifeline in show jumping ribbons. “No one bid on her because she was a bit funny-looking, bright orange and had a massive head. Nine years later she’s turned into the best little horse ever,” says Becky. “She tries her heart out, is superhonest and safe. She also grew into her head, which is a bonus.” Twenty-year-old Becky has lived in Makara all her life. She was raised on the family farm, which the Gills have owned for more than 30 years, running sheep and cattle. Becky was the third generation of her family to attend Makara Model School, and she finds horses and riding second nature, having first got on a pony as a toddler. “I went to Makara pony club while

growing up. I don't attend as much now due to working and studying, but it was a great place to learn and get support to improve my riding – I have made a lot of friends there over the years.” Becky describes Makara as “a neat little place,” but admits that the wind can drive her crazy, blowing over the jumps when she’s trying to train Maddie. “Having a horse isn't just a hobby, it's a lifestyle. You get used to being in all weather conditions. That’s part of it! You gotta have bad days to enjoy the good.” Having stayed local to complete her degree in criminology and psychology at Victoria University of Wellington, Becky is keen to keep Maddie in her life now that her studies are over. “Starting a horse yourself and knowing that all of your accomplishments are because of your hard work, early starts, all weather conditions and hours spent nursing injuries, makes it all worth it. And I don't think I'll be able to bring myself to ever sell this special little horse – even when she is a Madame.”

Madame Madison & Becky Gill

MUSIC

Sonic boon Garden Magic When: Tuesday 10 January–Sunday 29 January, performances from 8–9.30pm, light display from 9–10.30pm Where: The Soundshell, Botanic Garden How much? Free W R I TT E N BY M E LO DY T H O M AS I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY B I L L I E O S B O U R N E

Melody Thomas wraps up the music festivals not-to-miss this summer and introduces some of the talent.

Know-how: This annual concert series no doubt tops many “five things I love about living in Wellington” lists – especially in the years we are blessed with a “good summer” (although there are cancellation days just in case). On a good day more than a thousand flock to the Soundshell with picnic baskets, blankets and plastic champagne flutes, so it’s a good idea to arrive early to secure your spot. Other top tips: If you bring folding chairs, park up around the perimeter to avoid the evil eye from other punters; don’t sit too close to the front if the band is lively, as a dance floor will form around you; and be sure to pick up all your rubbish before you head home. Performers: WCC Events Coordinator Delia Shanly has pulled together a programme with something for everyone, including local-favourites-since-agesago the Warratahs (10 Jan), drummer extraordinaire Myele Manzanza (12 Jan), He Pō Taonga Pūoro: An Evening with Taonga Pūoro or traditional Māori instruments (21 Jan) and highly entertaining show band the Māori Side Steps (29 Jan).

Pasifika Festival

Te Rā O Waitangi

Island Bay Festival Day in the Bay

When: Monday 23 January, 12–6pm

When: Monday 6 February, performances from 12.30pm

When: Sunday 12 February, live music from 11am

Where: Waitangi Park

Where: Shorland Park, Island Bay

How much? Free

Know-how: Many Pacific Island families will already have this event circled on the calendar, but if the island flavours of Wellington’s cultural melting pot are unfamiliar to you, then this is a great opportunity to get amongst it. Enjoy live music from a blanket on the grass and spend time between sets browsing craft stalls, taking in short films and, of course, tasting as much food as you can (keep an eye out for oka or kokoda, palusami, rukau, sapasui, takihi and pani popo).

Know-how: Waitangi Day means different things to different people. Some see it as a time of celebration. For others, it’s more about reflection and discussion. And many just enjoy the time off work. No matter your outlook, one thing is certain, Te Ao Māori is full of riches, and many of them are on show at this event. Enjoy kapa haka performances alongside some of the country’s best artists and bands, feast on delicious food including hangi, everyone’s favourite steamy, earthy kai, and enjoy a programme of Māoriland films.

Know-how: The Island Bay Festival runs over nine days, culminating in the Day in the Bay, which sees Shorland Park and the waterfront overflowing with market stalls, rides for the kids, food vendors and performers. Not a bad idea to BYO shade if the weather is hot, as trees are lacking in front of the rotunda stage. With high-energy computer musician Disasteradio and Balkan brass extravaganza Niko Ne Zna in the lineup, it’s probably a good idea to bring your dancing shoes.

Performers: Mahalia Simpson, A Girl Named Mo, Maaka and Vince Harder.

Performers: Kirsten Te Rito, Ria Hall, Tunes of I, Cornerstone Roots and Mara TK with Troy Kingi and Mark Vanilau.

Performers: Niko Ne Zna, Disasteradio, The Paddy Burgin Band, Katie McCarthy-Burke, DJ Mikki Dee and more.

Coastella When: Saturday 25 February, 1–11pm. Where: Southward Car Museum grounds, Paraparaumu How much? Adults from $65, to $150 for a family pass. Know-how: Coastella is the region’s newest music festival, but tickets to the 2017 event are being snapped up after a stellar first run last year. As well as a great lineup, the event boasts a few good-looking workshops, including songwriting with Sam Scott, Warren Maxwell, Mundy and Ebony Lamb, and a ukulele workshop culminating in a mass performance. There are also plans for the world’s smallest music venue, housed in a half shipping container. A handful of punters at a time can enjoy extremely intimate musical performances before being shuffled out to make room for a new audience. Performers: The Phoenix Foundation, Mundy, The Eastern, ALDOC, Warren Maxwell, Disasteradio, Eb & Sparrow, Jesse Sheehan, French for Rabbits, Lisa Tomlins, Raw Collective, The Nukes, Eva Prowse, Phaëton, Wellington City Shake’Em-On-Downers and more.

MUSIC

For the kiddies

Take your nan

Hipster date night

Kids Magic

The Winery Tour

Jet Jaguar at Space Place

The Dell, Botanic Garden, Sat 28 Jan, 11.30am–1.30pm

Wellington Basin Reserve, Sat 11 Feb, 6–10pm

Carter Observatory, Sun 26 Feb, 7–8.30pm

Grab a coffee, park up on the perimeter and let MC Gerry Paul babysit your kids, with help from Orchestra Wellington and Deirdre Tarrant Dance Theatre.

Because of the cost and logistics of setting up for music events on a cricket ground, we don’t get to see as many artists play at this stellar venue as we’d like. Tickets aren’t cheap, but you’ll get to hear new material from Bic Runga and see Lower Hutt-girl Brooke Fraser performing back on home ground. Plus the actually-quite-talented former X Factor contestant Benny Tipene.

Electronic music DJ Jet Jaguar performs an “intoxicating fusion” of electronic music and visual effect at the planetarium. The kind of thing that’d be even better after a sneaky smoke in the gardens, or so we heard.

MUSIC

For the grown-up who’s still a rocker at heart

Feeling flush

Jon Toogood solo in Raumati

Fly My Pretties – String Theory

The Waterfront Bar and Kitchen, Sat 8 Jan, 7pm

Botanic Gardens, Sun 22 Jan, 6pm

While this stripped-back set might not reach the same explosive energy levels as a Shihad gig, you can guarantee an outof-this-world performer like Toogood will bring other things to the table to make this a really special night.

After their 12 years performing around the country, you’ve really no excuse for having not seen Fly My Pretties before. But if you haven’t and if you can swing the $72 pricetag, this setting will be a great one to enjoy them in. Featuring a huge cast of the country’s top performers including Barnaby Weir, Jarney Murphy and Nigel Patterson (The Black Seeds), Ryan Prebble, Laughton Kora, Tiki Taane, A Girl Named Mo and more.

For the culture vultures Leila Adu at City Gallery and Tāwhiri Funk at the Dowse Art Museum Thu 2 Feb, City Gallery entry $12, Dowse Art Museum by koha Explore Cindy Sherman’s celebrated portraits after hours, plus what’s bound to be an original and beautiful set from Leila Adu. Or if you’re more in the mood for funk, soul and jazz head out to the Hutt for Tāwhiri Funk.

MUSIC

Jesse Sheehan

Kirsten Te Rito

Myele Manzanza

‘Local-kid-done-good’ is a tale as old as time, but in this case it’s one worth retelling. Singer-songwriter Jesse Sheehan first became known as the boy with the soaring voice and ginger halo who defied odds to become the first solo artist to win the Smokefree Rockquest in 2009, when he was just 17. In the years since he’s released a couple of EPs, taken in tours of New Zealand and Europe and spent the moments in between playing around the world in the touring bands of both Dave Dobbyn and Neil Finn – the latter of whom produced his impressive debut album Drinking With The Birds, released in August last year. He’s been based in London for the past 18 months, so chances to see Jesse play his hometown are these days few and far between. “I’m very, very excited to play this show and I'm not saying that because I’m meant to… it feels like a homecoming. I used to go to these shows all the time as a kid. I would come every year and go to basically every one… I can’t wait,” he says. That kind of excitement is bound to translate to a fantastic live show – don’t miss it.

Lovers of waiata, Māori dream of a day when songs in te reo are all over the radio, and Wellington musician Kirsten Te Rito is doing her bit to make it so. With her two prior LPs Te Rito and Āiotanga, as well as forthcoming EP Kaitiaki, Te Rito and her husband, co-writer and co-producer James Illingworth, have worked hard to produce work that fits naturally between the songs on current radio playlists – last year Āiotanga won both Best Māori Pop Album and Best Māori Urban Album at the Waiata Māori Music Awards, plus the song Tamaiti Ngaro was a finalist for the APRA Maioha Scroll. For Te Rito, who was not raised speaking te reo, one of the great rewards of her work is the effect it has on others. “I have been approached by new learners of te reo asking for translations and lyrics so they can sing along, because they are using the songs as a tool to help them. That kind of thing “makes me want to keep going… so they have some new sounds to listen to,” she says.

Chances are, if you know of Myele Manzanza you first saw him playing with Electric Wire Hustle – but since departing the band in 2013 he’s made inroads on a solo career that’s only going to get more impressive. Rhythm was a constant for young Myele, the son of Congolese master percussionist Sam Manzanza, though he didn’t actually sit down behind a drum kit until he was 14 – a late start in professional musician terms, though you wouldn’t know it now. Myele now spends some of each year at home in Eastbourne and the rest travelling – touring and collaborating with great players like Theo Parrish, Mark de Clive Lowe, Jordan Rakei, Amp Fiddler (Parliament, Funkadelic) and noted LA-based instrumentalist Miguel Atwood-Ferguson. The next year will see him back and forth between here and Australia working with Melbourne-based contemporary dance company KAGE and bassist and composer Ross McHenry – so it’s a good idea to catch him while you can. “It's only once in a blue moon that I do something on the scale of what I'm putting on at Gardens Magic… I'm looking forward to showing people something special,” he says.

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CULTURE

DA N C E COLAB

S E A S O N

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N E W Z E A L A N D S Y M PHON Y ORC H E ST R A

S U MME R POPS WI TH TH E MO DE RN M ĀORI QUARTE T M ICH AEL FOW L E R C E N TR E Fri 10 Mar, 6.30pm

For the very first time, Deirdre Tarrant Dance Theatre has joined forces with Orchestra Wellington, in what Tarrant hopes may become a regular collaboration. The orchestra accompanies 40 young dancers performing the short ballet Les Sylphides at the Botanic Garden’s Dell on 28 January, as part of the council’s Meridian Kids Magic programme. “Kids would rather see other kids perform than watch adults,” says Tarrant of the family-friendly affair. Amit Noy, 14, and Charlotte Kaler, 17, perform the lead roles of the Poet and his Muse in a fairly plot-free romantic reverie. “These are very talented young dancers, but it’s very rare to get the chance to dance with an orchestra,” Tarrant says. After Les Sylphides, the young dancers perform The Lion in the Meadow, a dance work based on the beloved Margaret Mahy story, which delighted kids when performed in December. After the dancing, join an arts trail past the Botanic Garden’s sculptures.

E LGAR & STRAU S S M ICH AEL FOW L E R C E N TR E Sat 25 Mar, 7.30pm

MOZART & BE E TH OVE N M ICH AEL FOW L E R C E N TR E Fri 7 Apr, 6.30pm

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TRAIL MIXER If you’re not afraid of a little dust and helmet hair, it’s time to polish off your trusty two-wheeled steed and start gearing up for Bike the Trail 2017. Last year saw 1,368 keen riders hit the track to cycle the Hutt River Trail. Entries open mid-January for the event on Sunday 5 March, so there’s no excuse not to be road-ready. Make sure to observe the mountain bike code. And for those purist pedal-heads on fixies, well, good luck. 56

SOMETHING FISHY

Snapper Name: Australasian Snapper, aka Silver Seabream. Māori names: Tāmure (adult), Karati (juvenile).

the sand, but as they grow in size their diet expands to include invertebrates, including crabs, worms and shellfish. A big snapper can easily handle sea urchin, limpet, mussel and even paua.

Scientific name: Pagrus auratus. Looks like: Snapper are good-looking fish, with electric blue dots on a contrasting light copper-pink and an average size of about 30–50cm (growing up to 105cm). Interestingly, all snapper are born female, with about half the population changing sex at three or four years old. The oldest recorded specimen was 63 years old – and if you’re wondering how one might “age” a fish, the process is not dissimilar to ageing a tree. Just as the age of a tree is indicated by the annual growth increments we see as “rings”, fish too reveal growth increments – most notably in the calcified structures called otoliths, or “ear stones.” Like tree rings, ageing of fish otoliths involves investigating contrasting light and dark zones – although they are much harder to see in fish.

Catch: Snapper are one of New Zealand’s most prized fish – they put up a good little fight on a line and are delicious eating. Snapper can be taken from the shore or from boats of all sizes, with a variety of baits from fresh mackerel, kahawai, pilchards, squid, skipjack, tuna, mullet, shellfish and crabs to soft baits, jigs and flasher rigs. Cook: Prized for its white-to-pinkish, mildlyflavoured flesh, snapper is very versatile – try it poached, BBQ’d, baked whole, in a curry, in a chowder or simply pan fried. Did you know? Snapper are social fish, with NIWA’s Dr Mark Morrison reporting that in some tagged snapper returns, several fish tagged at the same time and place have been re-caught together months or years later, a long way from where they were last released – suggesting the same individual fish school and move around together for many years.

Habitat: Snapper live in a range of habitats around the entire North Island and the upper third of the South Island, heading further south in summer. The fish vary in habits and growth rates depending where they are found – West coast snapper generally grow more quickly but fish numbers there remain relatively low, whereas snapper on the East Coast grow more slowly but are more numerous.

If they were human they would be: Social, popular and willing to have a go at anything – snapper aren’t any one person so much as they’re the person we could all be if we just let ourselves (forgive us this cheesy moment, we’re still feeling the New Year glow).

Feeds on: Juveniles eat crustaceans found just above

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F E AT U R E

A team rescue W R I T T E N BY A L E X S COTT

ellington’s Shaun Cornelius learned in October of a vacancy on a search and rescue mission in the Mediterranean Sea, where refugees fleeing Africa and the Middle East for Europe continue to suffer on grossly overcrowded, barely seaworthy boats. “It is extremely intense and exhausting,” he says of the work. He describes horrific scenes of widespread dehydration, exposure, seasickness and chemical burns from spilt gasoline. “Many have suffered injuries, starvation and rape during their journey to get to the Libyan coast, and are severely traumatised,” he says. “Sometimes we arrive too late and recover bodies, or people in critical condition.” An estimated 4,620 people have died making the crossing in the past 12 months. As a logistician for the organisation Médecins Sans Frontières (commonly translated as Doctors Without Borders), Shaun provides the technical, logistical and administrative support that enables medical teams on the M.V. Aquarius to deliver emergency care. “My primary role is to keep all the MSF equipment and systems on the ship working correctly, and manage supply logistics to ensure we have adequate stocks,” he explains. “But when we carry out rescues and have people on board, everybody works together as a team to execute the rescues and care for the people.” It’s a world away from his former life as an engineer and project manager in the electricity industry in New Zealand. Each rescue is typically of 100 to 140 people, but he’s seen as many as 720. The

voyage back to port in Italy typically takes three to four days, with staff working round the clock on four or five hours sleep per 24. Rough weather can make the work particularly demanding. And it’s never-ending. “After handing over our passengers to the Italian authorities, we clean up the ship, resupply and start the process again.” He doesn’t see the situation in the Mediterranean improving, at least not in the short term. “If stable government was established in Libya, this would enable border controls to be put in place that would reduce the flow,” he says. “But the underlying cause is the desperate situations in many African countries, such as civil war, repressive governments, food shortages and droughts. As long as this continues, people will try and find a way to get to Europe.” At the end of his posting, Shaun will spend the summer at home in Brooklyn. “Usually for the first week after getting back, I am just amazed at what an extraordinary place New Zealand is and how fortunate I am to live there.” In his downtime, the 63-year-old works on his own construction and house renovation projects, spends time with family and enjoys mountain biking and tramping. He plans to make himself available to MSF again in March or April, but says you don’t have to be a doctor, nurse or engineer to make a difference. “Donate to MSF and other aid organisations. Follow what is happening around the world. Keep your awareness up, raise other people’s awareness, and speak up whenever the opportunity arises.”

Shaun Cornelius hosing down rescued men who have got gasoline on them, while they tear their clothes off. Photograph by Laurin Schmid Médecins sans Frontières

Holiday home Me-time, midnight wine Lawn chair, underwear Lazy fits, thigh-high splits Sunbathing, music playing Art Direction : Shalee Fitzsimmons Photography : Tamara Jones Styling : Bex McGill Zofia Zawada Models : Rhiannon Purves Alex Bullot from KBM Anja Jeremic from KBM M.U.A : Afshan Syed Hair : David at Luka Hair Earrings: Tam Kogler Assisting: Jonathan Buenaobra

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MEDIFOODS. C O. N Z

EDIBLES

THRILLER I N VA N I L L A Lower Hutt’s Sweet Vanilla Kitchen might need to find some extra display space, because the awards are literally beginning to stack up. They have just been voted People’s Choice cafe in Wellington after winning the Classic Kiwi Cafe in the same awards last year. This several weeks after being named one of four finalists in the hospitality and tourism section of the Wellington Business Excellence awards. The cafe seats 35, so you could argue it is quality over quantity. Winners of the national People’s Choice award are announced in February.

WHEN IT RAINS IT MONSO ONS

TONGUE THAI’D

NEW BREW

All you can eat Firecracker chicken has been on some foodies’ calendars for more than five years now and has gathered quite the loyal following, with regular groups attending on the first Monday of every month and initiating new fans. Firecracker chicken is a particularly spicy (read outrageously) wok fried chicken dish at Monsoon Poon. It is made with birdseye chillies, which can measure up to 225,000 on the Scoville scale, halapeno chillies rate up to 8000 Scovilles. For $30 you get a beer, naan, rice and as much Firecracker chicken as you can handle.

In a shop called Art for Art’s Sake at 62 Cambridge Tce is a hidden lunch gem run by Kesorn and Nakharin, two friendly Thai women. Their fresh spring rolls are incredibly popular in our office. There are tables and a chilling area, surrounded by art for sale. You might end up spending more than you expected. (Although the spring rolls are great value.)

The New Zealand-famous Mangatainoka Tui brewery experience has a few new tricks up its sleeve after being rejuvenated by Wairarapa locals Rosie Broughton and partner Nick. Bespoke personalised six-packs of beer have been popular as Christmas presents. Special brews are being created at intervals throughout the year. The current brew is Tui Extra Dry, colloquially known as TED. Only distributed locally and to Tui bars, you have to search for it.

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EDIBLES

FISH OF T H E DAY Wellingtonians looking forward to a summer spent fishing off the rocks will be hoping for a kingfish or snapper. However these are more typically “Auckland fish,” which come down our way in smaller numbers as our waters heat up, particularly around the Kapiti Coast. More frequently caught here are warehou, terakihi and gurnard, often year round. Meryn Cosgrove of Wellington Seafoods predicts that monkfish, also known as “poor man’s crayfish,” because of its delicate flavour, could have a very popular summer.

NO GO’S Entrepreneurial young restaurateur Dean White realised his dream and opened Mr Go’s in Taranaki St in September. Ten weeks later the 14 November quake closed it. “Business was good” he said, “we had to acquire more seats, equipment and staff to keep up with the demand.” Now he waits until the builders are available to remedy the damage and get the building open again. The latest estimate suggests a mid February re-opening. Other eateries in Courtenay Place have also been affected.

CHILDREN GROW STRONG The cafe at Zealandia has recently won best children’s menu at the 2016 Munch Awards, which celebrate those making a practical difference to children’s diets. Chef Brett McGregor judged the awards and said Rata’s win was a sign that the times are changing. Instead of the usual deep-fried hot chips and dogs, Rata’s menu features items like fishcakes and quesadillas.

To give you an idea of how many eggs we eat, for Countdown to supply only free-range eggs to their customers, they would have to find another 144 million free-range eggs per year. That being said, free range sales have increased 17% over the last year. Free range now makes up 42% of total egg sales. All the fresh chicken sold at Countdown this year was sourced from New Zealand.

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COUNT YOUR CHICKENS

S H E A R E R S ' TA B L E

H e a d fo r the hills BY N I K K I & J O R DA N S H E A R E R

and is known for its incredible flavour, colour and texture not to mention its healthy omega 3 fatty acids. The wood smoke imparts a fragrant fusion of smoke, sea salt and spices. A chilli feta is the perfect accompaniment to the creamy salmon, adding a zingy chilli kick. Be warned, this feta is highly addictive! So head down to your local baker, pick up a baguette and head for the hills.

Picnics are the perfect fit for the Kiwi laidback lifestyle, and good occasions to celebrate our delicious local produce and our spectacular surroundings. Whether you prefer picnics on sandy beaches, surrounded by our native bush or on a park bench in the middle of the city, this baguette overflowing with yumminess will be perfect. Salmon is farmed sustainably in Marlborough

INGREDIENTS 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 bunch asparagus 1 baguette 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 ripe avocados Squeeze of lemon juice Salt and pepper 100g wood roasted salmon with mixed pepper and spices 50g chilli feta 1 cup watercress Â˝ pomegranate, seeds removed

METHOD 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

A lte r n a t i ve toppings

Clean asparagus, and snap off the bottom couple of centimetres with your fingers. The stems will naturally break where the tender part of the stem begins. Heat oil in a griddle pan to a high heat. Saute asparagus spears for 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3 minutes, turning, until just cooked. Remove from heat. In a dry pan, toast cumin seeds for 1 minute. Crush toasted cumin seeds with mortar and pestle. Mash avocado with a fork, mixing through toasted cumin seeds, lemon juice, and seasoning with salt and pepper. To assemble: Halve baguette, and on the bottom side spread over avocado and layer with asparagus spears. Roughly break smoked salmon over the open half of baguette and then crumble feta on top. Top with watercress and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. Wrap in greaseproof paper and tie with string for easy transportation.

FIGS AND BLUE CHEESE

Spread base with labneh. Top with sliced fresh figs, pickled onions, crumbled blue cheese, baby spinach and toasted walnuts. MORO CCAN SPICE

Spread base with traditional hummus mixed with approximately 2 tsp horseradish. Top with thin slices of pan seared beef, roasted capsicum and rocket.

LIQUID THOUGHTS

BROWN IN TOWN Wellingtonian Al Brown makes a return to the capital as a guest chef at the city’s biggest-ever wine conference, Pinot Noir NZ 2017, from 31 January to 2 February. Brown now heads up the Auckland eateries Depot and Federal Delicatessen, as well as the Montreal-style bagel factories Best Ugly Bagels (which opened in the capital this year). He will join Ruth Pretty and her catering team, followed by fellow foodies Graham Brown and Josh Emett, who will assist with food during the Pinot event.

BARKING UP THE TREE

SHEDS ITS SKIN

SCOT T ’S BASE

They are not from Wellington, but it is summer, and you can buy their cordials here. Barkers of Geraldine have released a new range of squeezed fruit and botanicals premium cordials including flavours such as cucumber and mint or squeezed blood orange with lime and bitters, and three other flavours. Sounds to us like it could go quite well with a gin.

After 16 years Wellington’s Tuatara beers have undergone a facelift. New labels have given them a fresh look. Also, Tomahawk American pale ale, and Amarillo, an American dark ale, have been added to the core line up. The re-brand is meant to better reflect the style and personality of the beer inside. Don’t worry though, their distinctive reptilian bottle remains the same. Kapai.

Allan Scott admits sticking vines in the ground upside down isn’t something he prides himself on. It is typical of Scott to laugh at himself, however, which is what makes his new book Marlborough Man such an interesting, humorous, informative read about the establishment of this country’s biggest wine region. Scott’s voice comes through on every page. He had a little help with the writing from American journalist Eric Arnold, who spent a year in Marlborough working at Allan Scott Wines in the early 2000s. Marlborough Man by Allan Scott and Eric Arnold is published by HarperCollins NZ, RRP $59.99.

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Pinotphile style BY J O E L L E T H O M S O N

BEN GLOVER has put aside his winemaking boots to focus on the capital’s biggest ever wine gig this month.

ou could say Ben Glover has a knack for numbers. When asked how he got into winemaking, he describes a circuitous route, via a degree in economics, accounting and law, none of which, he says, are his forté. But ticket sales to the capital’s sixth international Pinot Noir conference this month tell a rather different story. Glover is the chairperson of the three-day event and this year’s is the biggest ever, with over 700 people in attendance. Glover was on the organizing board for the last Pinot Noir conference in Wellington, in 2013. He explained that the organisers have changed the way they targeted ticket sales. “For instance, for those working with wine, it’s no longer enough to just be a wine judge at a competition

any more. You’ve got to be writing, working with or communicating about how wine fits with food or how it fits into everyday life, so that’s why we have a strong culinary element at the event.” Ruth and Paul Pretty, who were at the helm of the culinary team in 2013 will be again this year, with guest chef appearances on each of the three days. Wellingtonian Al Brown, who now lives in Auckland will be the first guest chef. Another guest spot will be occupied by rock star Maynard Keenan, lead singer and lyricist of the alternative metal bands, Tool, Puscifer and A Perfect Circle. A rock musician by day, he moonlights growing grapes and

LIQUID THOUGHTS

making wine in the desert. A mover and shaker in the establishment of Arizona’s wine industry, he makes wine there from Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Barbera and Nebbiolo, among other grape varieties. His list of varietals appears to include every on-trend red grape but Pinot Noir, and his unconventional approach to wine earned him an invitation to the conference. Movie star turned winemaker Sam Neill is another keynote speaker at Pinot Noir NZ 2017, alongside several Masters of Wines, including the capital’s newest, Stephen Wong. The biggest star of all is Jancis Robinson, who will attend the conference for the first time. She was the world’s first journalist to become a Master of Wine, and is also the editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine and the ground-breaking encyclopedia Wine Grapes (2012). Glover says he wants people to use their grey matter – to think about what is in their glass at this year’s Pinot Noir NZ conference. “I want us to embrace our turangawaewae, to explore new ways to describe how we define greatness in a glass of wine. What’s great for one person may not be great for another, so it’s just stretching that whole thought process to think about where the wine comes from and how its flavours reveal its origins.” The Marlborough-born and bred winemaker finished a four-year stint as chief winemaker there in November last year, to devote most of his working hours to Pinot Noir NZ 2017, although (as winemakers do) he will also turn up the heat on his wine brand, Zephyr, which he began a decade ago. It has been a project of love, while he has worked full time making wine for others. He was the head winemaker at Wither Hills from 1998 to 2012, before working at Mud House, where his brother Jack is the general manager. Glover grew up in Marlborough. He says hard work on the family farm instilled a strong work ethic in him. He was regularly up at 4.30am to milk cows. Then things changed in Marlborough. “It seemed all of a sudden that the dairy farm was gone, and we were weeding young vines. “It was really tough and foreign in those first formative years,” he says. “We knew how to shift irrigation, how to milk cows at 4.30am and again in the afternoon. We knew the feeding,

carting and cutting of hay. The grape growing initially was bloody tough, even though we’d grown a lot of garlic, corn and peas through the late ‘80s,” he says. One of the biggest shocks to the family was in realizing that they had just one crop a year from which to make wine. “My father is a fairly pedantic farmer, as all the good grape growers tended to be. He was hands-on, and took a long-term view, so it was a pretty good way to learn how to get along in life.” On the future of Pinot Noir in New Zealand, Glover sees it taking a different road from Sauvignon Blanc. Although by volume it’s the country’s second biggest wine, as an oak-matured red, it’s probably the most alluring. “We know that a lot of our Pinot Noir always overdelivers, even at low price points, especially compared to its counterparts from many other places in the world.” He suggests that vine age, winemakers’ age and vineyard sites are now all coming together to provide an X-factor in New Zealand. “We know how to get the most out of the land while being sympathetic to it. We’re lucky in having long summers that enable us to provide door-opening Pinot Noirs that taste good. We always hold up France and its premier cru and grand cru wines as the holy grail, but they are only 3–5% of what they make. “We certainly over-deliver for the everyday wines we make from Pinot Noir compared to the French, and we are definitely making a lot of wine at a high quality/low price ratio.” When Glover says he hung up his winemaking boots in November last year, he’s talking about a very temporary state of affairs. The Zephyr wine brand that he and his family created 10 years ago has been simmering slowly on the back burner, and now is a good time to start driving its recognition and sales. As any wine drinker would expect of a Marlborough wine brand, Sauvignon Blanc is the biggest, in production terms, but Gewurztraminer is close to the hearts of the Glover family, as are Riesling and Chardonnay. “We have to keep people drinking Riesling and this trio of whites all highlight the strong quality potential of the South Island for grapes and wines other than Sauvignon Blanc.” Pinot Noir 2017, 29 January – 2 February 2017. www.pinotnz.co.nz

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City Gallery Wellington is part of Experience Wellington. Principal funder: Wellington City Council.

Cindy Sherman Untitled #462 (detail) 2007–8, collection Queensland Art Gallery, Brisbane (purchased 2011, with funds from Tim Fairfax AM, through the Queensland Art Gallery Foundation). Courtesy the artist and Metro Pictures, New York. © The artist.

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R u n fo r the hills BY VA N E S SA E L L I N G H A M

ne thing I’ve learned from living overseas is that you don’t know what you’ll miss from home until you see another country doing a really poor impression of it. My partner’s parents ring up from Denmark, where they live, and say they’d like to invite us over from Germany for the weekend. “We’ve got something here we think Vanessa’s really going to want to see!” If it’s worth two plane tickets, we’re intrigued. Andreas and I lived in Denmark for a year before moving to Berlin, and we still visit every few months, so I figure whatever they want to show me must have opened only recently. Maybe it’s the latest New Nordic dining experience? I start Googling new openings in their town. Or perhaps a mid-century furniture exhibition. Or a walking tour inspired by the TV series The Killing. I’m already thrilled. The four of us head out in the car. Andreas’s parents, Lillian and Kjeld, live about an hour north of Copenhagen, and now we’re driving further up towards the northern tip of Zealand, through the countryside. It’s incredibly pretty here. Denmark’s epic rainfall is evident in the lush fields of glossy grass, dainty rosehip bushes blushing around the edges. It’s also incredibly unlike home. The defining feature of Denmark’s landscape has to be its flatness. The country’s tallest peak is disputed, which tells you a lot: one of the contenders has oddly earned itself the name Sky Mountain, despite its elevation of just 147 metres. So I am totally surprised when Lillian, who’s had to clap her hand over her mouth more than once to contain the secret purpose of our visit, finally blurts out that they’re taking me to see their local hill. Not even the Sky Mountain, just the local version. Andreas makes big eyes at me in the back seat and says he’s never even heard of it. “Well,” says Lillian, “we just thought you might like to know that New Zealand isn’t the only country with hills.” It seems my years of vocal enthusiasm for Danish furniture, films and food have been inaudible. If New Zealand has hills, well, then Denmark must have a hill around here somewhere, too. Andreas is wincing. He knows I’m going to struggle to be impressed by whatever bump awaits us. As we pull up it is immediately clear that we have arrived at a standard issue tourist attraction. In a land devoid of slopes and acclivities, this hill has its own bus stop, a designated car park and even a cafe. The attraction to which we have come to bear witness is

Heatherhill. In Denmark, English is the trendy lingo of the future, so I can tell they’re taking the promotion of this hill very seriously. A wide, flat dirt path greets us, framed by two dinky mounds sprouting delicate quantities of heather. It’s hard to say which of the two is actually Heatherhill. Maybe it’s more of a cumulative effect. As someone who grew up atop a hulking great hill in Paremata, I find the officialdom surrounding these bumps just baffling. While we, too, had a car park at the bottom of our hill back home, ours was just the petrol station where people would pull in for a rest if they’d been beaten by our suburb’s real attraction, the Paremata Roundabout. Lillian leads us over to the grassy mound to the right: we have come to see the hill and now we are going to conquer it. Thoughtfully, someone has mowed a path for us through the grass and right over the top. The incline is so gentle it hurts in my heart. As we start up it Lillian takes my hand. “Isn’t it beautiful?” she whispers with glee. I’m afraid I can’t see what she means. Remove the mowed path, and this hill looks exactly like the thousands we speed past on Kiwi state highways every day back home. Not worth pulling over for. Definitely not something that justifies its own cafe. And then suddenly, as soon as we’ve started, it’s already over. We have reached the other side of the hill. My legs ache for bigger challenges. On the other side I’m genuinely surprised to find a much higher, steeper set of cliffs dropping down to the sea, with a magnificent view looking back along the stony coastline that, ironically, reminds me of home. I wonder, “was this actually the surprise?” This would hardly be the first time I’ve missed the punch line to this family’s jokes. But then Kjeld asks me, all cheery, “So did you enjoy your hill walk?” and I realise I’ve guessed wrong, once again. I stare at the cliffs in awe, but no one joins me. The others begin heading back to the car along the flat dirt path. Apparently once over the hill has been enough. I want to make the most of the opportunity, so I get back up on that hill. Andreas and his parents stare up at me as I knock the bastard off once more, realising I probably do have more in common with Sir Ed than with these flat-land dwellers of the north. If their plan for this trip was to connect me more deeply to Denmark, in this moment I can only think of home. Lillian and Kjeld are planning to visit New Zealand with us for the first time next summer. I can’t wait to see what they make of Mount Kaukau.

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Summer short fiction

Magnetic Migratory B i r d Wo m a n BY VA L E R I E M A R I E A RV I D S O N

ike most immigrants, Leda left her country in search of a better life. But she was not threatened by war, oppression, illness, or poverty. It seemed instead the nebulous forces of loss, longing, and wanderlust compelled her to move. The Germans call it fernweh, a desire to be somewhere else — soreness for somewhere remote. Is this pang for distance the other side of homesickness or homesickness in disguise? Like a magnet’s two poles, something fierce inside her wanted out but also wanted to be held. She failed to fully recall the mysterious trespassing that had been made against her, but it would be a gift slow to reveal itself. Leda’s “home” had been broken and scattered. The fragile and sharp eggshells were everywhere underfoot. Her parents were separated. Her lovers were gone. The family house had been sold, gutted, and remade into something monstrous and other. So it was time she made a new nest. Where better than the land of birds and long white clouds? She found New Zealand a place both comfortable and terrifying. And all around her were the birds, watching her and talking about her. Birds were creatures she both loved and loathed. She did not yet speak their languages, but she knew enough to listen. The tui’s song was both alarming and charming. The parrots squawked with warning and watchfulness. The screech and purr of the kiwi woke her at night and then the owl soothed her back to sleep. And a clock was provided by the quacking, buzzing, and trilling of little blue penguins waddling in and out of the sea. The birds felt the earth quiver and change before any other living thing could sense it. But there was also something suspect about birds; that hidden memory informed

Leda of this. They suspected Leda, too. She knew that at some point she had been infused with something birdlike. Leda felt the twin sets of eggs inside her warming, growing, and singing. Inside of her waited lust and revenge, abduction and seduction, beauty and death— glowing faintly like the stars of future constellations. In January she flew from the briny snow of coastal New England to the briny sun of New Zealand. She perched at the bottom of the North Island in Wellington, as upon the curving blue wrist of a branch. The birds there seemed quite happy; a good sign despite the impending end-times. In Wellington the world was green and blue and everything curled in the wind and waves like a woman’s tidal hair. The red rocks cut up from the sea like teeth. The only things she could hear were heartbeats, wind, and birdsong. Cold and tired, she slept for days, and then awoke feeling warm and strange. Leda sensed the hair on her arms turning to white feathery down. She felt the slow elongation of her snowy neck. The shrinking of her eyes and the hardening of her nose. She felt the strange rising aura of a sixth sense; it tasted metallic on her tongue. She had headaches like two magnets vibrating across her temples. The lights were always too bright. She constantly preened at her skin and gossamer hair. She became skittish and quick to jump to high places. Leda’s fingers turned thin and wispy; her toenails grew at twice the normal rate. She felt her bones hollowing; and she felt lighter despite her stretching belly. She was almost buoyant. And four new rapid heartbeats played inside her like piano hammers in rising arpeggio night and day.

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H E R E I S L E DA ’S D I A RY O F W E L L I N GTO N A N D W H AT S H E O B S E RV E D T H E R E : I. Mid-summer on the other side of the world In New Zealand the light is scrubbed clean by the winds, by the southerlies that carry frosty scrapings from the hard cold of Antarctica. (In the wind I can hear the distant creaking of shifting ice and melting snow falling into the sea). The light is scented with briny snow even in summer, where January is July. Sometimes the dampness in Wellington floats, a fog that curves over the convex water, a milky fisheye. The blue and brown guts of houses are sticky like the inside of a fish’s mouth. In my tree-house, moths are born out of the air, eat holes in the flour bags, in my possum-down jumper, flutter out on their death flight, all smoky fur and wing-feather, die between my fingers, leaving an ashy black smear. I write on the walls with the residue. Here I am living in the head of Maui's fish, Te Upoko o Te Ika a Maui. A mind within a mind, ad infinitum. I can see the hills and islands across the thrashing waters of Cook Strait, parts of a painted canoe, a slit, a spine between the Pacific and Tasman. The winds are constantly mothering, pushing and tugging, like the mouth of a prehistoric cat lifting you from the back of your neck, your hair caught in her long teeth. Protected. It’s a prayer here, the future, 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. But who is to say that this is not some other centre? Under the quietly meandering hole in the ozone layer.

Sky-damage causes skin-damage. New freckles appear: hello. The constellation of Virgo on my shoulder opens up and doubles into Gemini, mutates into Cygnus the Swan, the Southern Cross. Sometimes I scuttle from the sun like the Crab. We are all morphing, like the earth, sometimes slowly and other times suddenly— in shudders. Beneath the freckles my skin has turned ice white, and I have gone bald but for the quills that grow like thorns, and each day a new feather like a flower. I open and close the wooden post-box, checking for letters from New England. Nothing. Inside, along the back wall, a giant cricket creature has made his bed. At night, Deinacrida, the terrible grasshopper from Gondwanaland, hides from the little owl, Ninox novaeseelandiae, the ruru, the boobook, who lives in the lemonwood tree and hunts him, and also sings me to sleep. Hoo hoo, hoo hoo. He tries to seduce me but it’s too late now, though I allow him to bring me his kills, which I collect to feed the brood. The laying is nigh, I can tell. The pressure increases. The water in the nautilus-shaped harbour is always moving, always eroding slowly what lies at the edges, even me; I grow slender all around the planet that is my middle. But I am grateful also to be scrubbed clean by water, by wind. The salt here is the perfect amount of sting. I just want to float on the water or on the wind, to resist gravity despite what I carry. I stand over the harbour water: there is my reflection in the looking glass. I see perfect sand, iridescent paua shells, blue-black kelp, and red rocks. I look up and breathe in. The sun shatters the iris and the retina of each eye. I see the kelp again walking with a crooked limp across the sky. I see my long white neck curving impossibly into the white

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sea-foam and clouds. My belly is almost translucent now and I can see their pointy wing cartilage flexing, and their tiny blue capillaries pressing against the inner globe. There’s the glorious city across the water. I can go there whenever I please to buy milk and little fish and literature and fruit and jandals and flowers and tea and wool jumpers. No one thinks it strange here to see a bird woman wandering around. No one is so precious here. Everyone’s a wee bit odd. But primarily I avoid the people and the shops and sit in the sun and think and write and sometimes eat. The air is like a cool wet glass against my body. Each pore of skin a little lung. Here, in this clean light, I can see more stars. Is that what I came here for? To see better the traces of things erased on the other side of the universe.

The broken pieces of home are brought there by beaks and by watery waves. Eroded by salt and sun now, the pieces will never fit together as they once did. Someday my brood will also end up where they don’t belong; some day they will also leave their home, their mother. Their first voyage is to make landing on the edge of me. Where does it come from, this instinctive melancholy of migrators, this malaise, this madness that makes us leave? Only mammals and birds are warm-blooded. III. Heat and Sleep The eggs have been laid; they slipped out like hot stones. They left the sea inside me. I gave a long cry. A warbling cymbal shimmered strangely from my throat. I deflated and thought I would die. And now we sleep and dream of dancing together, as my body incubates them. I am a rotating radiator. We wait. The eggs harden and thin and wobble and the little ones pip against their calcified boundaries. The beings inside prepare for arrival, for begging, for air, and for food. Outside it rains; the woman in the moon pours the water from her gourd. And something divine sparkles and rejoices in the thunder and lightning thrown from the cloaked sky.

II. Me, my selves and other birds Like most immigrants, I came here because I was scared, am scared, and because I was brave, am brave. I came here, and I left there, erased myself from one place, put down pencil and other parts of myself in another. Other birds fly across the picture window of my tree house; they alight on the branches of a totara. Fantails, Starlings, Tui, Kaka, Kingfisher. Eat berries. Sing and chatter all day. They watch me sleep at night. Are they scavenging my dreams? Somewhere those old human memories are collected: brightly coloured bits of rubbish, bottles bobbing on the waves. Maybe they are piled up on an island, or in that great pacific garbage vortex. There, the birds are screaming; gulls, albatrosses, petrels are squawking with power and with dying, saying get away, saying come here, saying feed me or fight me or fly away. On a swirling heap of discarded nostalgia. Is that where I will go when it’s all over?

IV. The Clutch Even in a Wellington raincloud — where everything is wet, and white as a bird’s bleached bones, as the feathers of its mother’s hidden wings — the horizon is a dark slick line, a slippery rope that I can’t quite grasp. I don’t quite know where I am or where I’m going but I am home-sick and sick-of-home once again. It smells of mother here, everywhere. Is it me? The futures in my clutch will one by one break out, escape, be free.

Valerie Marie Arvidson writes fiction, creative non-fiction, and hybrid literature, including work embedded with photos and pictures. Her writing has appeared online or in print with Headland, Drunken Boat, The Seattle Review, Blunderbuss Magazine, Anomalous Press, Apt, Hunger Mountain, and elsewhere. She also has work forthcoming from Permafrost and Luna Luna. She is from Boston but lives in Wellington, NZ with her husband. She is currently pursuing her Creative Writing PhD at the International Institute of Modern Letters at Victoria University. valeriemariearvidson.com Photograph by Roy Marin

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POLO-RISING Wellington can’t claim even one of the country’s 19 polo clubs. But NZ Polo Open director Simon Wilson and fellow Kiwi Sam Hopkinson, a top-ranked international player, are determined to get us capital folk playing – or at least watching – a sport often dismissed as snooty. They’re bringing Heineken Urban Polo to Wellington (11 February, Ian Galloway Park), having noticed similar events in London, Sydney and New York. Twelve of the world’s best, including Hopkinson, play three-a-side games on an unusually small pitch, with DJs to follow.

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Former Petone and Wellington first five-eighths Hayden Cripps has been selected for the 2017 Japanese Sunwolves Super rugby squad. After playing professional rugby for Wellington Lions and the Tasman Makos, he left two years ago to ply his trade for the Tokyo Gas. In 2019 Cripps will be eligible to be selected for the Japanese national team, the Cherry Blossoms, having resided in Japan for more than three years. At Wellington College Hayden, nicknamed “Cripple”, was also the incumbent number 10 ahead of good friend and All Black Lima Sopoaga. (see issue #32)

Go By Bike Day on Wednesday 8 February celebrates 200 years since the invention of the bicycle. Between 7am and 9am, Queen’s Wharf hosts free breakfasts and coffee, bike checks, competitions, and perhaps a mayor on wheels. Event organiser Cycle Aware Wellington, a cycling-advocacy network, recently received a $2000 Nikau Foundation grant towards new social enterprise Wellington ReBicycle.

Wellingtonian Scott Ambrose, 21, will lead international pro-cycling team Novo Nordisk, whose members all have type-one diabetes, in the New Zealand Cycle Classic (22–26 January), the country’s premier international road-cycling event. Diagnosed with diabetes aged 18, Ambrose thought his professional career was over until he found out about Novo Nordish. The 30th cycle classic, held entirely in the Wairarapa, coincides with Huri Huri (21–27 January), Wairarapa’s community cycling festival with events including the Castlepoint Station Family Fun Ride (22 January).

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BLOW BY BLOW If you’re going to take a hit on the football field, you’d do well to be on the receiving end of an Isaac Isa’ako impact. Not because it wouldn’t hurt (it definitely would) but because the Porirua gridiron player is also a paramedic. While there is a physio on site for rep games, Isa’ako, 25, is often the most qualified medic on the field. And he’s had plenty of experience helping fellow players when they fall. “Things like guys taking hits to the knees. A couple of times guys have been knocked out and I’ve tried to convince them not to play,” he says. Traditionally a winter sport, gridiron is played over summer in New Zealand. Isa’ako plays in a local league every Saturday from November to February or March. But he’s also played on an international level in New Zealand team the Steel Blacks, most recently against American Samoa last July. He admits it’s a dangerous pursuit. “People look at rugby as a contact sport. American football is a collision sport.” And he’s not immune to injury. “Two weeks before the American Samoa game, I pulled my meniscus and had a small fracture in my elbow. I didn’t find out until after.” While the aggressive sport may seem at odds with a career in delivering medical attention, there are parallels to be drawn between the two, he says. “People think it’s just blunt force, but there are a lot of logistics involved in gridiron. You’re always anticipating the opposition. It’s the same for the job. If you don’t have that logical approach, you’re already behind the eight ball.” Asked to make a hypothetical sacrifice and choose either his sport or his job, Isa’ako doesn’t hesitate: “The paramedic work, definitely,” he says. “The help you can give someone is invaluable.”

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Pared-back retreat W R I T T E N BY S H A RO N ST E P H E N S O N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A N N A B R I G G S

Drive over the winding hill road from Wellington and, when you get to Masterton, veer 40km east until you hit Riversdale Beach.

here, where the chilly Pacific Ocean lunges at the beach, you'll find the bach of Wellingtonians Janine Jameson and David McGuinness. It's tiny, a 70sqm dwelling cobbled together with breeze-blocks, scraps and love sometime back in the 1920s. But that was the attraction for the couple, who live in Mt Victoria with their children Stella (14), Siena (12), Joe (10 ) and Ike (7). “We wanted a small, basic, low-maintenance Kiwi bach that the whole family could enjoy for years to come,“ says Janine of the house the couple bought in 2012. David, a director of his family firm Willis Bond, had a strong connection to the compact beachside settlement, having enjoyed numerous summers at a bach that's been in his family for many years. And while David and Janine enjoyed joining up to 40 people at the family bach each summer, six years ago they decided to secure their own patch of paradise. “We were keen to have a place that we could retreat to when we wanted,” says Janine. Ironically, they ended up 400 metres from the McGuinness family bach. “We don't have too far to stagger home,” she laughs.

The couple had to kiss a lot of frogs before they found their two-bedroom bach. “We looked at a number of places but none of them seemed quite right,” says Janine, who works part-time in HR. “We had a quite a specific wish list – it had to be a pared-back Kiwi bach, it had to be reasonably sheltered from the northerlies, which can be quite strong on the coast, and it had to be as close to the beach as possible.” The section also had to be large enough to accommodate the growing number of friends who bring their own tents each summer. In July 2012 the couple finally struck gold with this two-bedroom bach, one of 286 properties in Riversdale. Set on a 900sqm section, it squats at the top of a rolling lawn which runs down to the water's edge. It's an understatement to say the property wasn't in good shape. The breeze-block construction was painted a dirty salmon colour inside and out and the original cabinetry and bright blue carpet gave it a tired, dated look. But it was open-plan, and the couple knew it had what real estate agents love to describe as “good bones”. So they signed on the dotted line, and within six months had ripped up the carpet, polished the concrete floors and

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covered the walls in lashings of Resene Alabaster paint. For the feature walls and the compact bathroom Janine opted for Resene's Stack, a dark grey shade also used on the exterior. “Inside, it contrasts nicely with the crisp white walls, while externally this colour works well with the blue of the sea and sky.” All of the windows, which leaked, were replaced and painted, and a 10m fence was added at the front of the property. Next on the couple's list was a 10m x 6m deck facing the beach, which is really an extension of the house and is the perfect place for sitting and gazing out over the sea. Janine added a large outdoor sofa, Adirondack chairs and beanbags, and a large hammock. They also added a hot shower on the southern wall, so that family and friends can wash off the sand before entering the house. “So many baches have cold-water outdoor showers but having a hot shower after a swim is a real luxury.” Fortunately, all the bach's rooms and facilities were well positioned, so there was no need for major structural alterations. The biggest change was made in the kitchen, which was renovated a year after the family took possession. When the couple bought the house, the kitchen still sported its original cabinetry and drawers. Keen to retain the simple, no-fuss vibe, they got their trusted building firm, Prestige Joinery from Masterton, to rip out the carcasses and replace them with simple drawers covered with a stainless steel veneer. They also added a stainless steel benchtop, contributing to the low maintenance feel they were after. The joiners also fixed a sheet of ply to the northern wall of the kitchen, for a beachy feel and to provide a backdrop for shelving. The ply theme is repeated across the room behind the built-in seating, which delivers a more compact seating solution than conventional couches. Sand-coloured squabs were made by a local upholsterer, and big drawers

underneath the seating provide ample storage space for the family's growing collection of board games, a lifesaver on rainy days. “There wasn't much storage, so we've really had to find it wherever we can.” A shed on the property houses the family's wetsuits and surfboards, while another doubles as accommodation for Janine's parents when they come to visit. No much was required in the master bedroom, apart from a lick of paint. The artwork in this room was bought on a trip to Copenhagen while a world map found in Sweden adorns the facing wall. In the children's bedroom, joiners built a raised platform above the floor to accommodate one of two water-tanks on the property underneath. The two sets of bunks in this room came from the couple's previous Mt Victoria home. They were dismantled and reassembled by their joiners. In furnishing the bach, Janine opted for a less-is-more approach. The large oak table from ECC Lighting not only serves as a kitchen island but also seats 14 people. The rug that adds a pop of colour was picked up years ago when the couple were backpacking through Turkey. In keeping with the classic bach feel, the property has no TV, washing machine, dishwasher or phone. They do have wi-fi and mobile reception, but in January, when the family usually spends the entire month at the beach, they try not to use either. “The whole point of being here is to unplug and chill out,” says Janine. “Which means switching off and enjoying the sun, surf and easy pace of life.” They're not totally shut off from modern life, however. Riversdale Beach boasts an active surf club, a golf course and a cafe which serves a decent flat white. “It really is a magical place to be in summer,” admits Janine. “We were very lucky to have found this slice of heaven...”

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Canoe commute BY A M A N DA W I T H E R E L L

If you visit only one Marshallese atoll, make it Ailuk – this was the unanimous advice we received from the long-time sailors anchored in the capital, Majuro.

e were offshore, making our final approach to the remote Pacific atoll when I first spied an indication of why they might say so – tiny black triangles, perky as pennants, zipping along the horizon. They darted in and out of view faster than we could catch them as we sailed our 14-metre sloop toward the lagoon’s entrance. We were being outraced by traditional eight-metre canoes, built from cheap plywood, rigged with scavenged fishing line and flying tarps for sails. Each was steered by a bowman standing proud on the centre platform and a helmsman perched on the stern, mere inches above the ripping grip of a sevenknot wake, casually palming a stubby, paddle-shaped tiller. Sail north from New Zealand, pass New Caledonia, Fiji,

Tuvalu and Kiribati and about 2,500 miles later you will arrive in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. Ailuk (pronounced “Eye-Look”) is one of 34 islands and atolls where the highest point is the top of a coconut palm. Of the 13mile string of 53 sandy islets, only three are inhabited and any one could stand in for Paradise. Ailuk’s main village is the southernmost, just a half-mile long and home to about 300 people in 80 households, two Protestant churches, an elementary school, and a dirt runway beside an “airport” where the weekly flight is usually delayed, indefinitely. Another village of 49 people is situated on Enejelar, the third islet from the top of the atoll, about 90 minutes north if you’re commuting by canoe.

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ABROAD

Which is actually the only way to travel. Outriggers gliding low then shooting clear of the ocean’s surface as gracefully as a shearwater, these fast, innovative vessels, which feature asymmetrical hulls and reversible rigs, are the essence of sailing. They’re also keeping a remote community mobile and in touch with a culture that has disappeared on their neighbouring islands. “We never stopped using them,” says Rufina Jack, thirdterm Mayor of Ailuk and owner of an eight-metre canoe. “Other islands did stop. They wanted outboards. Ailuk has canoes. There is not much fuel available for motorboats, and we try not to use it. Most people can’t afford motorboats and fuel.” Even if they could, the supply is more unreliable than the weather. When we dropped anchor in the lagoon, the island was out of petrol and had been for quite some time. Officially, government supply ships call in every three months. In the spring of 2016, nearly six months passed before a ship was sighted on the horizon. The atoll was also in the midst of a drought compounded by a strong El Nino, creating conditions so extreme that President Hilda Heine had recently declared a state of emergency. In normal weather, the soil is too dry and sandy to support many crops, but taro, papaya and bananas get by and most families keep a pumpkin patch. Now, even the tops of the hardiest breadfruit trees were leafless sticks. Bananas had a shriveled, aneamic look. The village’s primary watermaker was broken and the smaller backup system was limping along. People were lining up through the night to fill bottles from the trickle. On other Marshallese atolls we visited, we observed how stranded the villagers were by these conditions. Without sailing canoes, they were unable to reach food and resources in the lagoon and on neighbouring islets. On Ailuk, there were still plenty of wind, plenty of fish, and the beach was as busy as a train depot with canoes coming and going, landing and launching people, copra, cargo, and fish. There is no tourism on Ailuk and no commerce except three small island stores, which are really just caches of imported food sold from people’s huts. Copra, handicrafts, and dried fish are the only sources of income for most villagers. Copra fetches 25 cents per pound and is typically gathered in 100-pound sacks on the uninhabited islets, then transported back to the village via canoes carrying up to eight sacks at a time. Inside and outside the lagoon, fishermen trawl for tuna, wahoo, mahi and other fish, salting and drying their catches to sell or share with neighbors or export to Majuro on the next available flight. Women weave baskets from pandanus leaves, coconut fibres, and fossicked shells, which are then traded for rice and other provisions, with the island stores acting as middlemen for tourist shops in Majuro where the baskets will ultimately sell for more than twice the price.

Traditionally built up to 100 feet long, Marshallese canoes were used for hundreds of years for lagoon travel and interisland trade, to fish inshore and offshore, and to explore remote reaches of the Pacific. Before World War II, Japanese occupying the atolls banned interisland canoe travel, which led to a decline in construction. The fleet was further decimated by the war, the end of which brought first-world goods to the remote atolls, including outboard engines that were immediately deemed superior to the native craft. Canoes were left to rot on the beaches on every atoll but two – Namdrik and Ailuk. Though there is a small and important renaissance of canoe building in Majuro, seeing canoes sailing in Ailuk’s lagoon is like witnessing a nearly extinct black rhinoceros foraging in the wilds of Africa. Asked why his atoll never abandoned canoes like all the other islands, sailor Tokjen Takju says it’s because “it’s our custom and culture. They lost their culture.” After more thought, he adds, “And the wind direction is good for us. Always.” Given a choice between an outboard or a canoe, he doesn’t deliberate: “A canoe is better because we always have the wind.” To Takju, the equation is simple: no canoes would mean “no food, no fish, no copra, no money.” “Without them we wouldn’t be able to travel within the lagoon and visit our mothers,” says Darlene Senight, one of the teachers in Enejelar Village. Mother’s Day is an important holiday in Marshallese culture: land, the most highly prized possession, is matrilineally inherited and it’s not uncommon for women to serve in positions of power. (Ailuk has a woman mayor and a woman iroij, or chief, and the Marshall Islands recently elected its first woman president). Mother’s Day weekend, the entire village of Enejelar decamped to Ailuk in a convoy of canoes, to visit their extended families and celebrate with feasts, gifts, and performances. Monday morning saw canoes laden with people and feast leftovers, toddlers wrapped in tarps against the spray while their older brothers helped rig the sails. Kids learn about boats early, sailing carved wooden models and toy boats fashioned from breadfruit, eventually graduating to paddling small canoes. Ask any one if he wants a canoe when he grows up and the answer is an emphatic “Yes!” And they grow up to become crack sailors, navigating without GPS or compasses, and fearlessly setting sail into the dim light of a quarter moon night. Word from Majuro, transmitted via HF radio, was that a company boat would soon arrive to pay out for the dried, mature copra that is processed into coconut oil for export. Six boats prepared to sail to the northernmost islet for a week of harvesting coconuts, earning $25 for every sack they could fill. Nobody works alone and with such lively boats to sail, it’s never all work and no play. They ease their canoes gently into knee-deep water, sails luffing, and wait for the last boat to rig, just so they can race each other to get there.

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Wh a t wo u l d D e i r d r e d o? W I T H D E I R D R E TA R R A N T

SLEEPLESS IN THE CIT Y

your barbs, but make up and find some time when together is great.

Dear Deirdre, I’m having trouble sleeping. You seem like a busy person – how do you make sure you’re getting enough sleep? Tired Mt Vic

SET TLED AND B ORED

I am lucky, I can sleep anywhere. The night time routine is touted as the key to this and a walk, bath, book and bed seems to do it. Even at 2am. I am one of those who has always thrived on little sleep but I recently made a resolution to sleep longer – I read an article in the Readers’ Digest. However life is too full of wonderful people to sleep! Just have the same amount most nights.

SSSISTERS

I used be a bit of a party animal, but now in my early 30’s, I’ve settled down a bit. The problem is now I have more spare time than I know what to do with myself. Any suggestions? Bored, Tawa Well 30 sounds pretty young to stop partying. Maybe the responsible side of your personality has kicked in, but you have years of fun ahead. Get a passion not just a job, make your sort of fun with your sort of people and enjoy life.

ST YLE-SEEKER

My sister and I get along well 50% of the time, but the other 50% of the time, we want to kill each other. Is there anything I can do to stop the inevitable nuclear disaster that is our relationship? Hufflepuff, Miramar

I’m on uni holidays and am a stereotypical poor student. I’m off to Coastella for Summer (I got tickets for Christmas) and would like to look stylish. How do I put together a summer wardrobe when I’m dirt poor? Poor student, Mt Cook

Sisters! Family! A recipe for conflict but you really love each other – don't you? Slingshot the retorts, brush up on

This is a summer treat, so casual is the go. Get a brightly-coloured maxi dress,

make your own beads, put flowers in your hair, and love it. Try op-shops, Ezibuy, Cotton On, your mum's wardrobe, and even check out your own wardrobe again for something you bought and don't wear. Find your own style and love the gig. You don't need new.

NO SUMMER SEX I’ve lost all interest in sex, in fact I dread it. I’m fine with this, my new partner not so much. She thinks it’s unreasonable; is this fair? Do we owe sex to people? I thought everyone was entitled to say NO. Over it, Miramar It is your relationship, and between you and your partner only. You are both in this together. Saying No is not the issue – start with the things that you agree on and that make you both happy. I suspect sex is part of that – for you both. If you’ve got a burning question for Deirdre, email angel@capitalmag.co.nz with Capital Angel in the subject line.

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W E L LY A NG E L

DAYS OF OUR LIVES Does family really come first? Mine is dysfunctional, the many problems include crime, alcoholism and drug problems. I am not ashamed of where I come from but have created a different life and don’t enjoy spending time with them. They expect my help and support, financially, and otherwise and never reciprocate in any way. In fact they criticise my choices to other family members. Would you still respond to their requests for help ahead of those from good friends? Weary, Upper Hutt Family is family and I would normally be totally of the "you are all in this together" school of thought, but you do seem to have drawn the short straw! Keep in contact and maintain communication. You can make choices in terms of your financial help. Maybe just tell them that you are not able to help at the moment. You sound reasonable, try to keep both family and friends key players in your life.

SPLURGE ON TIME How much time do you think parents should spend with their children? Too busy, Kelburn Lots! It is not just the amount of time, it is the quality of that time. Being

with them while you sit watching television or on emails doesn't count. You need to be doing things together. Children grow up fast, so make the time to see them grow. Be there when they do things and be part of their activities – this provides invaluable opportunities to develop your relationship and talk. Get this in place before you need it!

LO OK ELSEWHERE I regularly go to the sauna and there is a girl there that I have my eye on. Is the sauna an appropriate place to ask her out on a date? It feels creepy. Steaming-up, Wadestown It is creepy. Don't.

SNAKES AND LADDERS Am I allowed to confiscate my neighbour’s ladder, which I found on my property? Despite being requested to stop, my neighbours keep trimming my trees. They say they overhang their boundary, which they don’t, and they keep on trimming, hence the ladder on my side of the fence. What should I do? On the fence, Karori You sound very sure that you are in the right. If you really are, then my gut reaction is to burn the ladder – then I thought that ladders nowadays are

non-flammable so you will have to lose it in some bush gully. Another option is to give up stressing and live with it! Smile and – invite them for a BBQ.

LET THEM EAT CAKE My granddaughter is unhealthily inactive and overweight. I had a chat with her about regular sport and its benefits for healthy mind and body and offered to pay and help, with transport or whatever might be needed, if she came up with something she wanted to trial for a minimum six months. She seemed quite interested, and pleased. Her mother has now told me off for interfering, for daring to speak to her before asking the Mother, and suggested I will have given her body image issues (which she has already). What is my role as a grandfather if I must ask parents’ permission before talking to my grandchildren? Wounded, Lower Hutt You are totally allowed to talk to your granddaughter and good on you. She sounds like she wants to try to improve her health and lifestyle, so hatch a plan together and “just do it”. Maybe your daughter feels guilty that she has not addressed the issue, for whatever reason? Talk to them both and good luck. What a great granddad.

Fine print, small print, or “mouseprint” is less noticeable print smaller than the more obvious larger print it accompanies that advertises or otherwise describes or partially describes a commercial product or service.[1] The larger print that is used in conjunction with fine print by the merchant often has the effect of deceiving the consumer into believing the offer is more advantageous than it really is, via a legal technicality which requires full disclosure of all (even unfavorable) terms or conditions, but does not specify the manner (size, typeface, coloring, etc.) of disclosure. There is strong evidence that suggests the fine print is not read by the majority of consumers.[2]Fine print may say the opposite of what the larger print says. For example, if the larger print says “pre-approved” the fine print might say “subject to approval.” [3] Especially in pharmaceutical advertisements, fine print may accompany a warning message, but this message is often neutralized by the more eye-catching positive images and pleasant background music (eye candy). Sometimes television advertisements flash text fine print in camouflagic colors, and for notoriously brief periods of time, making it difficult or impossible for the viewer to rea Fine print, small print, or “mouseprint” is less noticeable print smaller than the more obvious larger print it accompanies that advertises or otherwise describes or partially describes a commercial product or service.[1] The larger print that is used in conjunction with fine print by the merchant often has the effect of deceiving the consumer into believing the offer is more advantageous than it really is, via a legal technicality which requires full disclosure of all (even unfavorable) terms or conditions, but does not specify the manner (size, typeface, coloring, etc.) of disclosure. There is strong evidence that suggests the fine print is not read by the majority of consumers.[2]Fine print may say the opposite of what the larger print says. For example, if the larger print says “pre-approved” the fine print might say “subject to approval.” [3] Especially in pharmaceutical advertisements, fine print may accompany a warning message, but this message is often neutralized by the more eye-catching positive images and pleasant background music (eye candy). Sometimes television a colors, and for notoriously brief periods of time, making it difficult or impossible for the viewer to rea Fine print, small print, or “mouseprint” is less noticeable print smaller than the more obvious larger print it accompanies that advertises or otherwise describes or partially describes a commercial product or service.[1] The larger print that is used in conjunction with fine print by the merchant often has the effect of deceiving the consumer into believing the offer is more advantageous than it really is, via a legal technicality which requires full disclosure of all (even unfavorable) terms or conditions, but does not specify the manner (size, typeface, coloring, etc.) of disclosure. There is strong evidence that suggests the fine print is not read by the majority of consumers.[2]Fine print may say the opposite of what the larger print says. For example, if the larger print says “pre-approved” the fine print might say “subject to approval.” [3] Especially in pharmaceutical advertisements, fine print may accompany a warning message, but this message is often neutralized by the more eye-catching positive images and pleasant background music (eye candy). Sometimes television advertisements flash text fine print in camouflagic colors, and for notoriously brief periods of time, making it difficult or impossible for the viewer to reaine print, small print, or “mouseprint” is less noticeable print smaller than the more obvious larger print it accompanies that advertises or otherwise describes or partially describes a commercial product or service.[1] The larger print that is used in conjunction with fine print by the merchant often has the effect of deceiving the consumer into believing the offer is more advantageous than it really is, via a legal technicality which requires full disclosure of all (even unfavorable) terms or conditions, but does not specify the manner (size, typeface, coloring, etc.) of disclosure. There is strong evidence that suggests the fine print is not read by the majority of consumers.[2]Fine print may say the opposite of what the larger print says. For example, if the larger print says “pre-approved” the fine print might say “subject to approval.” [3] Especially in pharmaceutical advertisements, fine print may accompany a warning message, but this message is often neutralized by the more eye-catching positive images and pleasant background music (eye candy). Sometimes television advertisements flash text fine print in camouflagic colors, and for notoriously brief periods of time, making it difficult or impossible for the viewer to rea Fine print, small print, or “mouseprint” is less noticeable print smaller than the more obvious larger print it accompanies that advertises or otherwise describes or partially describes a commercial product or service.[1] The larger print that is used in conjunction with fine print by the merchant often has the effect of deceiving the consumer into believing the offer is more advantageous than it really is, via a legal technicality which requires full disclosure of all (even unfavorable) terms or conditions, but does not specify the manner (size, typeface, coloring, etc.) of disclosure. There is strong evidence that suggests the fine print is not read by the majority of consumers.[2] Fine print may say the opposite of what the larger print says. For example, if the larger print says “pre-approved” the fine print might say “subject to approval.” [3] Especially in pharmaceutical advertisements, fine print may accompany a warning message, but this message is often neutralized by the more eye-catching positive images and pleasant background music (eye candy). Sometimes television a colors, and for notoriously brief periods of time, making it difficult or impossible for the viewer to rea Fine print, small print, or “mouseprint” is less noticeable print smaller than the more obvious larger print it accompanies that advertises or otherwise describes or partially describes a commercial product or service.[1] The larger print that is used in conjunction with fine print by the merchant often has the effect of deceiving the consumer into believing the offer is more advantageous than it really is, via a legal technicality which requires full disclosure of all (even unfavorable) terms or conditions, but does not specify the manner (size, typeface, coloring, etc.) of disclosure. There is strong evidence that suggests the fine print is not read by the majority of consumers.[2]Fine print may say the opposite of what the larger print says. For example, if the larger print says “pre-approved” the fine print might say “subject to approval.” [3] Especially in pharmaceutical advertisements, fine print may accompany a warning message, but this message is often neutralized by the more eye-catching positive images and pleasant background music (eye candy). Sometimes television advertisements flash text fine print in camouflagic colors, and for notoriously brief periods of time, making it difficult or impossible for the viewer to rea

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Beaut ute W R I TT E N BY RO G E R WA L K E R | P H OTO G R A P H Y BY R H E T T G O O D L E Y - H O R N B LOW

n mid-1933 the managing director of Ford Australia at the time received a letter from a farmer’s wife living in Gippsland, Victoria. She wrote, “My husband and I can’t afford both a car and a truck but we need to go to church on Sunday and take the pigs to market on Monday. Can you help?” And so was born the ute. It’s become an incredibly successful breed of vehicle. Currently, three out of the best selling five passenger new vehicles in New Zealand are utes. It's astonishing in this age of cars to think a ute could be New Zealand's best selling vehicle type. For some, it’s the versatility, the staunch looks, and the ability off-road, that attract them. The AA says people want something big enough to carry their livestock, weekend gear or tools. They point out that farmers and tradies particularly put a lot of trust in their utes because it’s more than just their mode of transport – it’s their workhorse. However an English psychiatrist has suggested that while those are considerations, the ute is primarily the automotive equivalent of platform shoes, because the main deal is the commanding and elevated driving position with its perceived safety, security and empowerment. Steven Adams will tell you that tall works for him. So we come to Ssangyong. Their utes are affordable and sporty. To underline sporty, in 2014 they launched the increasingly popular Ssangyong Racing Series, a NZ Premier Motorsports category for amateur drivers, in which 30 identical 2.0 litre, 4-cylinder Actyon diesels are shown in close racing on free-to-air television. The company has now upped the ante with the new 2.2 litre Actyon Sport. Good looking, well built and economical, with a base price of $42,990+ on road costs, it seems good value compared with its competitors. It’s got street cred too, earned on the border between North and South Korea. There’s one in Wellington, you’ll see it around, still sporting Korean camouflage. Derek, a technician at Hutt Valley SsangYong, liked the vehicle so much he bought himself one and then fitted it

with pretty much all of the factory optional extras: tinted windows, running boards, 22-inch alloys, low-profile tyres, front nudge bar, tow bar, hard lid (lovely bit of kit), monsoons, bonnet protector and adjustable race suspension. It looks superb in shiny black. It’s mainly sensible, sure, but it does have some charming quirks – excuse me while I digress. Several years ago on the AA Torque Show on Prime, we tested a Ssangyong Stavic. It had a peculiar little urn-shaped portable ashtray, presumably so the Korean puff-daddies could take their ciggies from the car to the coffee shop without having to stub them out. The new 2.2 Actyon Sport carries over this feature, which is thoughtful, as we now know that after 20 years of use it could be used by the relatives to convey the deceased driver’s cremated ashes to his favourite remote four-wheeldrive location for scattering. Derek uses his for storing parking coins. He generously loaned it to the photographer and me for our test. We pottered around city streets, sprinted up the Wainui Hill and slalomed at speed down the winding Coast Rd through the Rimutaka Forest Park. Not game to ruin Derek’s tyres on rocky ground, we crossed a river to check that the 4 x 4 DNA had not disappeared. The reversing camera checked for tsunamis and the brakes worked under water. Comfortable seats, including spacious rear ones, a high standard of materials and finishes are a standout. The controls are well positioned, simple and easy to operate. There’s a smooth 6-speed auto, with a manual override for overtaking and cornering. The diesel turbo pulls willingly and without fuss. The sound-deadening is up to concert hall standards – it would almost pass for an electric vehicle. Ssangyong is in the top five in Consumer NZ’s trusted brands survey, and a serious and innovative global competitor. I see the 2.2 Actyon Sport ute as a great mix. Perhaps more Colin Firth than Colin Meads.

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B A B Y, B A B Y

Shaping BY M E LO DY T H O M A S

y the time this issue goes to print I will be mother to a fouryear-old and an eight-month-old, and the mantra that got me this far – “it’ll be over before you know it” – will be feeling less comforting and more like a threat. It’s one of the most interesting and frustrating parts of parenthood – we get so caught up in just surviving that we are blind to the magic until we’re looking back at it from a safe distance. It’s also one of the nicer things about baby number two; knowing that it gets easier makes enjoying the messy, sleep-deprived, beautiful present that much more do-able. Of course I can write from this place of relative optimism partly because last night I only woke a few times and the baby is currently not attached to my body or even in the same house (woohoo!). Add to that the promise of a new year and a good number of hours floating in the ocean and suddenly I’m starting to feel like an actual human being again. I’m ready to start reassuming the layers that make up who I am beyond my role as nurturer. Interestingly, I’m finding that as I sort through these old layers of skin I am much more clear about which I’d like to wear again and which are well in need of a re-think. For example, hidden somewhere in the depths of my computer is a “first draft of a novel I began on a dusty bus in the Bolivian sierra, which I have been too frightened to fully dedicate myself to ever since. For half a decade I have called myself a writer while prioritising writing that pays over that I know will most satisfy my soul. Then finally – over the past couple of weeks – I’ve managed to take a little time every other day to pound away at the keyboard on a project that will probably bear me no reward other than the hope that one day it will be finished. And it feels so good. Another thing – as a feminist and someone who fully understands the ways in which the self-worth and potential of women is limited by unrealistic beauty standards, I am beginning to feel a need to push past “getting this” at an intellectual level to a place where every cell of my body feels it to be true. Where I can

register my stretch marks, cellulite, laugh lines and ever-less-pert breasts with the bemused detachment of someone who doesn't care. Not just not caring, but wholehearted, 10,000%, running down the beach in a bikini thinking about the way the breeze feels on my skin rather than the way my body is wobbling, don’t care. I’m not sure how I’m meant to get to that point, but it seems a much more interesting thing to aim for than, say, “ageing gracefully”, “dressing for your body type” and managing lines on the face by only laughing when it’s really, really necessary. There are other behaviours that will probably sound familiar – hanging on to toxic friendships, not taking time out to do the things you love, not listening when someone expresses a point of view different from your own, continuing to say ‘yes’ even when you’re overwhelmed as it is, buying things you don’t need, watching shitty TV when you have a stack of good, unread books… it’s really pretty remarkable the things we continue to do despite the fact that they serve no-one, least of all ourselves. Of course getting older has something to do with this sudden rush of self-reflection. Since I was a teenager I’ve heard older women talk about how one of the great benefits of ageing is that you come to know yourself that much better, caring less and less what other people think. I‘m sure that’s true for everyone, but especially for women – who are given such a narrow prescription on how to look and act and be from far too young an age. But it does feel like there’s something in the act of becoming a mother that facilitates these changes – perhaps the way that childbirth reconnects you to your animal self, or that the act of stepping outside of your life to create another life lends a new perspective on what is important. Or maybe it’s as simple as wanting to be the best person we can be for the little people in our care. Either way it’s a pleasant surprise – I knew that motherhood meant taking on the responsibility of shaping another person, but I hadn’t considered how those little people might help to shape me.

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