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CAPITAL The stories of Wellington

t’s no news that the folk in the hospitality industry have been widely affected by Covid-19. This October’s Wellington on a Plate celebration is an opportunity for them to recoup custom that we hope will propel them into a prosperous summer. Our focus in this issue is also on food. Tora couple Troy Bramley and Claire Edwards chat to Benn Jeffries about establishing their kai moana business and how they have weathered the Covid storm. Our very own spice girls, mother and daughter Shobha and Keryn Kalyan, chat to Francesca Emms about their family cooking habits and give us a special recipe. Prominent foodie Adie McClelland let us into her house and especially her kitchen. Our annual nationwide beer tasting has come up with our Capital six-pack, the best beers tasted by our panel, for 2020 and many suggestions for a top of the hops beer tasting at home. Thank you for your feedback on our crossword – we have decided to keep it as a regular feature. A lot of you particularly liked the te reo version in the last issue. And, re-scheduled to a slightly later date, this month we have an election. Do turn out and vote. Freedom to vote is a precious right, and one not enjoyed in many parts of the world. See you all in December, as we get ready for another Christmas.

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Contact Us Phone +64 4 385 1426 Email editor@capitalmag.co.nz Website www.capitalmag.co.nz Facebook facebook.com/CapitalMagazineWellington Twitter @CapitalMagWelly Instagram @capitalmag Post Box 9202, Marion Square, Wellington 6141 Deliveries 31–41 Pirie St, Mt Victoria, Wellington, 6011 ISSN 2324-4836 Produced by Capital Publishing Ltd

Alison Franks Editor

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The opinions expressed in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Although all material is checked for accuracy, no liability is assumed by the publisher for any losses due to the use of material in this magazine. Copyright ©. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without the prior written permission of Capital Publishing Ltd.

Staff Managing editor Alison Franks

Featured contributors

editor@capitalmag.co.nz

Campaign coordinators Haleigh Trower haleigh@capitalmag.co.nz Emily Wakeling emily@capitalmag.co.nz Ava Gerard ava@capitalmag.co.nz Factotum John Bristed

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Art director Shalee Fitzsimmons shalee@capitalmag.co.nz Designer Luke Browne

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Writer Francesca Emms

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Publishing assistant Callum Turnbull hello@capitalmag.co.nz Accounts Tod Harfield

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Contributors Melody Thomas, Janet Hughes, John Bishop, Anna Briggs, Sarah Lang, Deirdre Tarrant, Craig Beardsworth, Griff Bristed, Dan Poynton, Sarah Catherall, Chris Tse, Claire Orchard, Freya Daly Sadgrove, Harriet Palmer, Sharon Greally, Jess Scott, Claire O’Loughlin, Annie Keig, Chev Hassett, Joram Adams, Sanne Van Ginkel, Rachel Helyer Donaldson, Matthew Plumber, Fairooz Samy, Lucy Wormald, Connor Amor-Bendall

HARLEY NGUYEN I l lu str ator

V I C T O R I A B I R K I N S H AW Ph oto g r aph er

Harley is a young freelance illustrator from Hanoi, Vietnam, who loves illustrating Wellington's food. When she isn't drawing, she enjoys binding notebooks and photography. You can check her work out on Instagam @nz_foodie_illustrations

Victoria is a photographer who has worked editorially, commercially, and on self-directed documentary stories for publication and exhibition. She has worked extensively in New Zealand, the Pacific, and the UK, where she was based for seven years. She now lives in Wellington.

BENN JEFFRIES Writer

CALLUM TURNBULL Publi sh i ng assi st ant

Stockists Pick up your Capital in New World, Countdown and Pak‘n’Save supermarkets, Moore Wilson's, Unity Books, Commonsense Organics, Magnetix, City Cards & Mags, Take Note, Whitcoulls, Wellington Airport, Interislander and other discerning region-wide outlets. Distribution: john@capitalmag.co.nz.

Submissions We welcome freelance art, photo, and story submissions. However we cannot reply personally to unsuccessful pitches.

Benn is a Wellington-born writer and photographer. A lover of all things outdoors, you’ll usually find him on a river with his rod and reel. Now based in New York, Benn is chipping away at an MFA and practising his cast in some leafy city park.

Descending from the mighty Lake Taupō, Callum studied marketing at Victoria Uni. He crystallised his love of print publications and storytelling at Salient magazine. You'll find him obsessing over a beat machine, at dinner with friends, or peeking his way through the Haunting of Hill House.

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C O N T E N T S

12 LETTERS 14 CHATTER 16 NEWS BRIEFS 18 NEW PRODUCTS 20 TALES OF THE CITY 25 CULTURE

30 Bold as brass Big band punk Aaron Lloydd

Making a racket

Coastal kai

A side, B side, and the other side of midnight

Tora couple succeed on rugged coastline

Beer necessities

Hot right now

Capital’s annual search for a brew for every mood

Every Friday & Saturday. 12PM-6PM. Behind the Park Ave shops, Lower Hutt.

Saintly sauce from Paekākāriki

C O N T E N T S

Energizer buddies Blind tasters do energy balls and bars

64 LIFESTYLE BRIEFS

68 BUG ME 70 EDIBLES

A taste of Greece

Foodie Adie McClelland shows us around her home and her kitchen and suggests a recipe

76 LIQUID BRIEFS 78 BY THE BOOK

81 Reverse

72 Spice girls Secret family recipes and a special mix from Keryn and Shobha Kalyan

Robin Hyde’s The Miracle of Abundance introduced by Claire Orchard

84 Pier pressure Our much admired waterfront is at risk says Councillor Nicola Young

98 WELLY ANGEL 100 WĀHINE 102 CALENDAR 104 PUZZLED

L E T T E R S

A P P LY F O R D E AT H About Kill Me Now (Cap #72), I wish everyone would put the word “voluntary” in front of the word “euthanasia”, when referring to humans. Euthanasia is what we do for a suffering animal, but some people are concerned that if the End of Life Choice Act comes into force, they too might be “put down“. Be reassured: only the person who wants an assisted death to relieve their suffering can apply. Dianne Cooper, Waikanae CARE AND C OM PA S SIO N F R OM D O C T O R S It is not true that doctors are against medical assistance in dying to relieve unbearable suffering in the case of a terminal illness (Cap#72). In a 2018 survey done by NZ Doctor, 37 percent of New Zealand’s doctors declared support for this, with 11 percent undecided. Although all will not be in a position to offer end of life choice, this indicates that there will be enough to be there when care and compassion are needed. Dame Margaret Sparrow and Dr Carol Shand, Retired medical practitioners, Wellington. FAC E F O RWA R D

Comprehensive eye care and advice you can depend on

I’m annoyed. The WCC and our councillors have missed a really BIG opportunity to promote themselves and show the united face of the city’s citizens. Why didn’t every household receive a specially branded pack of Wellington themed washable face masks during lockdown? Surely that would have fitted the “feel good” and “nice to do” brief that seems to prevail within our local authority. Mind you if the only alternative spending options are challenging or mucky why would you want to get your hands dirty? Tina Wilson-Grant, Te Aro LARGER N UM B E R S N E E D E D As a former Wellingtonian with a great affection for the city, I really enjoy seeing each issue of Capital. Congratulations on keeping the magazine going post-Covid and spreading cheer, with style, in these tough times. It must be a real morale-booster to denizens of the city. I enjoy the crossword too, especially the latest one in te reo – great initiative (Cap#72). But please could you use a larger and darker font for the numbers – they’re hard to see, way up here in Auckalofa. Mattie Wall, Auckland We have taken note and hope this month it is easier to read. Ed.

mgoptometrist.co.nz 77 Customhouse Quay

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HAPPY BI RT H DA

O US Y T

S E C TCI HO AN T TH EE RA D E R

One On the tra il For an entire generation the Kāpiti Arts Trail has been offering gallery and artist studio visits from Ōtaki to Paekākāriki. This November the opportunity runs over two weekends 7/8 and 14/15 November. The team say they’re delighted they can go ahead, especially as this is the trail’s 20th birthday. Around 130 artists will be involved, showcasing a wide array of mahi including paintings, pottery, prints, fibre creations, furniture, and wooden flutes.

Two I n t h e fra m e

Carissa macrocarpa What’s in a name? Being a plant native to Natal and its fruit having a similar appearance to a small plum, Carissa macrocarpa is commonly called the Natal plum. In South Africa she’s known as the large numnum (in Afrikaans the fruit is called noem-noem). Carissa is also known as “Emerald Star” because of her star-shaped flowers.

Two Wellington photographers are among the 40 finalists chosen from more than 6,000 entries in the New Zealand Geographic Photographer of the Year 2020 Competition. While he was photographing the mosh pit at WOMAD, Ashim GC noticed one attendee sleeping soundly, oblivious to the throng. The resulting photograph scored him a spot in the society category. Rob Suisted is a finalist in the landscape category for his drone shot of Mt Taranaki. Winners will be announced in October and all finalists are on display in A Year in Aotearoa at the New Zealand Maritime Museum in Auckland until March next year.

If this plant were a person it would be… Lady Gaga. Resilient, tough, eye-catching, and full of surprises. Where should I plant it? To receive a star performance from Carissa, plant her in a sunny situation with free-draining soil. She tolerates front-line coastal conditions and even salt laden winds so don't hide her away. What’s the best thing about this plant? Carissa’s attributes read like a good wine label. Snowy white scented flowers (stay up late, as the fragrance intensifies at night), doesn't need fertiliser, and even provides cranberry-tasting fruit in summer and autumn – perfect for ice-cream or pies, jams, jellies or even fresh with your morning muesli. Our plant of the month has been chosen by Katherine Beauchamp from Palmers Miramar.

Three

We l l y w o r d s We’re pleased to hear it’s not just we who get excited to see our own title in pride of place. Rose Lu (Cap #66) spotted her book of essays All Who Live on Islands while attending an open home. “Good to know that I’m pushing up the perceived cultural capital of houses on the Wellington market,” she tweeted. Creative folk have welcomed the news that Toi Poneke Arts Centre will get a facelift. At present the words “One day I am going to get noticed” are splashed across the facade. “I mean, come on, Dylan Mulder (Cap #41) and all sorts of successful people work from there. It's almost embarrassing,” said one.

C H AT T E R

It's cool to kōrero Woah! This is seriously spicy!

Wī! Te pūhahana hoki o tēnei kai!

New in town

Four Tr i c k o r t r e a t ? Treat, please! Treat yourself, or someone else, with a Capital curated giftbox. They’re chock full of locally sourced goodies and come with a six-issue subscription to your favourite magazine. There are two to choose from. “Calm” includes a candle, tea, and a face mask, while “Champ” has a fiery Apostle hot sauce (see page 36) and a South Coast drink bottle that will take your hot or cold beverages from city to sea to skyline and everywhere in between.

Cream of the crop Wellingtonians can now enjoy what the Waikato and Auckland regions have been raving about for years: Duck Island Ice Cream is opening its first store on Cuba Street. Local ice cream lovers can enjoy a rotating range of delectable ice cream flavours, including a multitude of vegan options.

F i ve Go Gothic Old St Paul's is embracing its Gothic Revival roots this Halloween with a screening of F W Murnau’s 1922 classic Gothic film, Nosferatu: A Symphony of Horror. The silent film will be shown on a big screen in the freshly renovated cathedral,

and a DJ will play the 1997 James Bernard soundtrack in sync with the scenes. The event is supported by the Goethe Institute, and Fritz’s Weiners will be selling wurst from their food truck in front. We hear Vampire Kiss cocktails will be on the menu, and Unity Books will also be on site with a pop-up store selling Gothic horror novels. Tickets will be on sale from 3 October.

Six

3058

1978

260

By the numbers

record for most lit jack o’lanterns on display (held by the City of Keene, New Hampshire)

the year Halloween, the movie by John Carpenter, was released

approx number of mini chocolate bars you need to eat to cause a fatal overdose

1000+

number of sheep (both trained live sheep and animatronics) in the kiwi horror film Black Sheep

N E W S

T RY AND TEST Porirua City Council has secured $675,000 from Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency for a neighbourhood improvement project in Eastern Porirua. The funding comes from the Waka Kotahi’s Innovating Streets programme and pilot fund, which allows councils and communities to collaborate on, co-design, and quickly test temporary tactical improvements to their streets. Porirua Mayor Anita Baker says the council will “work alongside the community to re-imagine the look and feel of Castor Crescent and the surrounding neighbourhood.”

FACE UP TO IT

BORROWERS

KAITIAKI

Volunteers from Common Unity (a community charity) in Lower Hutt hope to reduce the stress and anxiety some young people feel about wearing face masks. They are sewing colourful, fun “Friendly Face” re-useable face masks for children and students, and giving them away. Hutt City Council has supported the project with a $1,000 grant from the Community Resilience Fund. Lower Hutt Mayor Campbell Barry says a lot of students in Lower Hutt use public transport daily, and he’s proud to see local organisations removing barriers to mask ownership.

More than 7,200 Wellingtonians now belong to car sharing schemes where they can use a car for brief periods without owning one. Data provided by MEVO and Cityhop shows that over 2019/2020 almost 50,000 trips were taken. Car share schemes help reduce parking congestion and support the use of public and active transport.

Environmentalist and educator Ra Smith of Kahungunu ki Wairarapa is confident there is a pathway back for Lake Wairarapa, which has been reduced to a supertrophic state by decades of pollution, intensified agriculture, and misguided water management. The lake has now been recognised by Ramsar as a Wetland of International Importance, meaning the restoration efforts will be carried out in accordance with international standards. They will include riparian planting, pest control, and measures to mitigate fertilizer runoff.

N E W S

Y O U B E AU T Y Finalists in the 2020 Beautiful Awards have been announced. The awards celebrate the environmental excellence of communities, businesses, schools, and individuals in New Zealand. Sport Wellington is a finalist for the Most Sustainable Business Project award, for their continued efforts to make Wellington Round the Bays a zero-waste event by 2025. Gary Mitchell, avid beach cleaner, founder of Predator Free Grenada Village, and leader of the Northern Wellington Branch of Keep New Zealand Beautiful, is up for the Tidy Kiwi award.

SPRINT

REPTILE CENSUS

THE APPRENTICE

Running rivals are working together to try to qualify for next year's Tokyo Olympics (postponed because of Covid). National 200-metre record holder Joseph Millar has shifted from Tauranga to Wellington to train alongside national 100-metre champion Eddie Osei-Nketia (pictured, Cap #68). While Joseph can focus solely on training, Eddie has to split his time between training and study – he’s still finishing off his last year at Scot’s College.

Two lizard surveys, one at Onoke Spit, Ocean Beach, and the other at Castlepoint Scenic Reserve in the Wairarapa, have received Department of Conservation funding to pay for a herpetologist – a zoologist who studies reptiles and amphibians. Both sites boast rare native plant and animal species, for example the Castlepoint daisy and Castlepoint moth, which are found nowhere else in the world; and the spit is home to banded dotterel, katipo spiders, Notoreas moths, and two species of lizard.

Karori’s Karl Douglas (27) is Registered Master Builders Carters 2020 Apprentice of the Year for the Lower North Island. He’s won $2,000 to spend at Carters, a place on an Outward-Bound course, and an apprentice membership of the Registered Master Builders Association. Alert levels allowing, Karl will compete in Auckland in November against other regional winners for the title of National Carters Apprentice of the Year 2020.

N E W

P R O D U C T S

2. 1.

5. 6.

11. 8.

9. 10.

12.

Chop it like it’s hot

1. Vintage chapati platter, $110, Small Acorns 2. Appetito cotton string bag, $7, Moore Wilson’s 3. Edit by Seneca large chopping board, $79, McKenzie & Willis 4. Hiakai by Monique Fiso, $65, Unity Books 5. Le Creuset volcanic pepper mill, $76, Moore Wilson’s 6. Coffee canister, $25, Coffee Supreme 7. Bianca Lorenne storm tea towel, $39, McKenzie & Willis 8. Soapstone dish, $89, Untouched World 9. Chemex three cup, $60, L'affare 10. Oranges, $7 per kg, Commonsense Organics 11. Single vineyard pinot noir 2018, $85, Palliser Estate 12. Kinto sepia glass jug, $69, Wellington Apothecary

NEW ZEALAND SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA ENGAGE@HOME

S E C T I O N

H E A D E R

TA L E S

O F

T H E

C I T Y

All Hallows hunter BY F R A N C E S CA E M M S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY V I C TO R I A B I R K I N S H AW

EAT Traditional Thai Restaurant, Upper Hut

LISTEN

ARTIST

AUTHOR

RETAIL

Kiss

Frank Frazetta

H P Lovecraft

Mint Music, Upper Hutt

Monster-maker Bill Hunt probably likes Halloween more than you.

ill Hunt was seven years old when the movie Halloween came out. The trailer was on high rotation all through October and, being a “creepy little monster-making kid”, he tried his best to sit through it, “but once that piano theme started, and Michael Myers came barrelling down the steps, I would get up and run from the room.” These days Bill is made of sterner stuff and every October he dives into his annual “month-longnothing-but-horror-binge”, watching at least one horror flick per day. Halloween is Bill’s favourite holiday. “Aside from the obvious celebration of all things that go bump in the night, for me, it also means change.” For the first half of Bill’s life, in Nashville, Tennessee, Halloween came in autumn and “signalled the beginning of the holiday season, with time off from school for Thanksgiving and Christmas following soon after.” For the past twenty-plus years Bill’s lived in New Zealand so Halloween “heralds the end of the long, gruelling, holiday-free Wellington winter and the beginning of the long, warm summer.” Whether he’s here or there, All Hallows Eve has always been “an opportunity to lean into my horror-loving self, while also being able to

transform into any number of characters that I could imagine.” Bill was one of the first foreign artists to join the Weta Workshop design team on The Lord of the Rings trilogy. He spent more than thirty years as a special effects makeup artist, sculptor, and props maker for the likes of King Kong and Avatar. Now happily retired from the blockbuster movie biz, Bill is a sculptor and painter “typically with a leaning toward horror”. Bill lives in Upper Hutt with his “wife/soulmate/muse” Sherryn, who shares his love of horror (they wore zombie makeup for their wedding photos), three sly black cats (Hydie, Ophelia, and Elvira), and two “enormous, happy Mastiffcross moose-dogs” named Lilith and Frazetta. As a professional monster-maker, Bill says when it comes to a Halloween costume, it has to be comfortable and easy to wear and remove. "You don’t want to take off half the costume and have to carry it around all night, and you don’t want a two-hour makeup removal process at the end of your night either, so keep things simple but effective. A face painted with water-based makeup can be simple yet striking, allowing me to actually enjoy the night.”

“As consumers we have so much power to change the world by just being careful in what we buy.” — Emma Watson

Op shopping is an absolute vibe — for your wardrobe, wallet and the planet! There’s nothing quite like finding your new favourite pair of orange flare pants (that you know no one else will have) or scoring a vintage denim jacket for just $10. Olive, Manuela and Jordan set out on a mission to pull off an urban fashion photoshoot in front of iconic Wellington backdrops, wearing only second-hand clothing from Upper Hutt.

Each look was curated with clothing from Upper Hutt op shops. • • • • • •

Red Cross Shop SaveMart Wesley Thrift Shop Te Omanga Hospice Salvation Army Family Store SPCA Op Shop

Proudly brought to you by Upper Hutt City Council.

Donate your curtains to the Wellington Curtain Bank and help keep a family warm www.sustaintrust.org.nz

Proudly supported by

C U L T U R E

THE BEAGLEHOLES’ ROLE In Capital #6, we profiled then-80-year-old Tim Beaglehole (1933–2015) after he edited an anthology of his father J C Beaglehole’s letters. Dr John Cawte Beaglehole (1901–1971) was a Victoria University historian, professor, and art-lover. In 1956, J C arranged for Victoria University’s staff club art committee to purchase Frances Hodgkins’ 1938 painting Kimmeridge Foreshore. Recently Tim’s widow Helen Beaglehole, as per J C and his wife’s wishes, gave Hodgkins’ 1931 painting The White Chateau to Victoria. Both pieces are being shown in touring exhibition Frances Hodgkins: European Journeys (until 13 December) at Victoria’s Adam Art Gallery.

TO SLOWLY COMPOSE

PRESCIENT OR BANG ON

A FRIEND IN NEED

Saxophonist, multi-instrumentalist, and composer Blair Latham collected $10,000 as one of four recipients of the 2020 Wellington Jazz Festival Commissions. “Wonderfully, it gave me space and time to compose slowly without rushing.” On 18 November, he’ll play this composition Karla and the Divide on saxophone with his chamber quartet the Noveltones – and do gigs with various other groups – during the Wellington Jazz Festival (18–22 November). “I play in maybe eight to 12 groups, but not all at the same time!”

In Bruno du Bois’ 15-minute film Zealandia, a virus closes New Zealand’s borders in 2032. He actually made Zealandia before Covid-19, prompted by 2014’s Ebola epidemic. Catch it at the Show Me Shorts Film Festival, which divides 75 local and international shorts (and three music videos) into 11 themed collections: eight will screen at LightHouse Cuba (8–21 October) and three online.

The Phoenix Foundation’s seventh album Friend Ship, to be released in October, is “about time” in two ways: because of the fiveyear gap between albums, and because it’s “a post-apocalyptic love letter from the future to the present,” as composer/vocalist Samuel Flynn Scott puts it. “Friendships are not passive social interactions but are active support of each other, which I thought about after the mosque shootings,” Flynn says. During a national tour, they play in Paekākāriki (6 November), and Wellington (28 November).

H O L I S T I C T H E R A P I E S , O R G A N I C H E R B A L T E A , N AT U R A L S K I N C A R E , A R O M AT H E R A P Y, B E S P O K E B L E N D S & W O R K S H O P S OPEN

DAYS

(04)

801

8777

110A

CUBA

S T R E E T,

ARO

SHOP

ONLINE

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C U L T U R E

F U L LY DRESSED Fashion changed dramatically during the 34-year life of Katherine Mansfield, born in 1888. Costuming Katherine, an exhibition at Katherine Mansfield House, looks at the clothing from different times in Mansfield’s life, with a special focus on the costumes used in two New Zealand productions, Bliss: The Beginning of Katherine Mansfield (2011) and Bloomsbury Women & the Wild Colonial Girl (2018), which featured Mansfield as the central character.

TIME TO CREATE

FAMOUS FACES

TECHNICAL TO OTSIES

Wellington artist Sheree Willman (Ngāti Kahungunu and Rangitane) named her first solo exhibition Raranga, after the traditional Māori weaving that inspires her paintings. Willman spends up to eight hours drawing up a pattern before she begins to paint, and each painting can take between 20 and 30 hours in total to complete. A mother of three, Sheree began painting full-time three years ago. “Now all my children have left home, it’s my time,” she says. Raranga is at Pātaka Art + Museum until 25 October.

Portraits of well-known and “forgotten” New Zealand artists, writers, craftspeople, and actors are on display in Marti Friedlander: Portraits of the Artists at the New Zealand Portrait Gallery until 8 November. Director of the gallery Jaenine Parkinson says the exhibition shows our artistic greats, as well as some who didn’t make it big but contributed to the development of a cultural milieu in Aotearoa. “It is important to recognise the generative value of our entire interconnected creative community,” she says.

One of the most difficult segments for a ballerina in any ballet is the Rose Adagio in Act 1 of The Sleeping Beauty. It requires precise technique, endurance, and strength. Wellington audiences will get to see it when the Royal New Zealand Ballet performs the classical fairytale ballet this month (29 October – 7 November). Tchaikovsky’s music (one of just three ballet scores he wrote) will be performed live with Hamish McKeich (Cap #66) conducting.

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C U L T U R E

D I R E C T O R Y

Costuming Katherine

Wellington Jazz Festival

Creative Classes

An exhibition of beautiful costumes created for stage and screen portrayals of Katherine Mansfield. Kirsty Cameron and Sheila Horton’s designs move from the buttoned-up Edwardian style of Mansfield’s teenage years to her love of colour and use of clothing as a costume in daily life.

The 2020 Festival is set to be a celebration of the sounds and talents of Aotearoa as world-class live music fills bars and eateries across the capital.

Toi Pōneke Arts Centre are offering a diverse range of creative classes this spring.

From 8 Sept 25 Tinakori Road, Thorndon, Wellington. katherinemansfield.com

National Watercolour Exhibition World renowned artist, Svetlana Orinko will join over 100 painters from all over New Zealand as guest artist for the annual watercolour exhibition. ‘’Splash’’ is one of the highlights of the Wellington arts calendar and all paintings will be for sale.

24 Oct – 8 Nov, 10am – 5pm daily Academy Galleries, 1 Queens Wharf, Wellington. watercolournewzealand.nz

The festival presents new music from Avantdale Bowling Club, as well as commissions from four talented Kiwi composers.

Classes include Wooden Marquetry, Printmaking and Puppet Making and Manipulation. Tutors include Sheyne Tuffery, Katy Cottrell, Anne-Lisa Noordover and Fingal Pollock. 10, 31 Oct and 3 – 21 Nov Toi Pōneke Arts Centre, 61 Abel Smith Street, Te Aro. toiponeke.nz

18 – 22 Nov jazzfestival.nz

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Art Zone celebrates NZ art with these limited edition cards. Ten exclusive cards by five NZ artists, all presented in one beautiful package. Artists featured are: James Tylor, Kate Woods, Cam Edward, Amy Unkovich & Harry Culy. Cards are blank on the inside and envelopes included. Only $34.99.

Opening 29 Oct 5pm–7pm 23 Allen Street, Te Aro, Wellington. oragallery.co.nz

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A solo exhibition by Paora Tiatoa. Works inspired from the British Museum ‘Taonga Maori’ book about artifacts that had been traded or are currently stored there.

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F E AT U R E

Bold as brass P H OTO G R A P H Y BY V I C TO R I A B I R K I N S H AW

Brass-band stalwart and lawyer Aaron Lloydd (yes, two Ls and two Ds) talks to Sarah Lang about his double life.

aron Lloydd, the Musical Director and conductor of the Upper Hutt Brass Band, catches up with his 70-something dad Clive Lloydd at the band’s rehearsals and performances. “He’s a great life-long cornet player.” They sometimes have a beer together after the two-hour Wednesday-night rehearsals. "We’ve been rehearsing at Level 2, being very careful with hand-washing, not sharing gear, and having a band-room QR code.” Aaron, who is infectiously upbeat, is looking forward to the band’s centenary in October. "Very few brass bands last this long!” Its website displays photographs of the band in 1920, 1930, and every decade since – and tells the anecdote that a member long ago used to walk seven kilometres from Silverstream to Upper Hutt’s CBD for rehearsals. The band, which currently has about 30 members, usually performs four concerts a year. There’s the Christmas concert, the ANZAC Dawn Parade performance followed by a family concert that afternoon, an outdoor summer concert, and a gala event on Labour Weekend. This Labour Weekend, the band plans to mark its 100th birthday with a concert (25 October) at the Wellington Area Sports Club in Trentham, and other catch-ups and festivities (upperhuttbrass.band/centenary). Fingers crossed that Covid-19 Alerts remain at Level 2. Otherwise, could they perform via Zoom? "That would be an organisational disaster, and cause violence to the ears!" He’s focused on conducting now, but occasionally subs in when other bands are suddenly short of a trombonist. "I’ve played most brass instruments, but I like the trombone most because of its versatility across orchestra, jazz, and brass, and you can wash it in the bath. It’s also one of the loudest acoustic instruments.”

Aaron played in the Wellington Brass Band for 22 years (for many, alongside his dad), mostly on bass trombone but sometimes on baritone horn and tuba. He became deputy musical director, and conducted its national-champion youth band. “But by the time my second child was born five years ago, the band was world class and I couldn’t keep up as a player and a parent. And it was difficult to practice at home. Don’t wake the baby!” Then he landed the Upper Hutt Brass Band gig. Many members are local, but others come from Wellington City (Aaron lives in Karori) and even Masterton. “Although we serve the Upper Hutt community, we’re not just Upper Hutt residents. That’s partly because each brass band has its own character and grading. I thought, as Musical Director, I could bring value to a lower-grade brass band – and that’s not a negative thing. It means a band suited to people wanting both relaxed conviviality and musical merit.” He accepts "a very humble honorarium". What do people love about brass bands? Their ceremonial aspect? The stirring old-school music? The sheer loudness? “A bit of all that, and, for me, the way different instruments blend so well into a homogeneous sound.” Aaron’s handy on the guitar too. After high school, he played for punk bands: guitar for Loosehead, trombone for The Offbeats, guitar and trombone for Mr Sterile, and guitar for Midwest Motor Parts Corral. "Punk music is forever." Aaron’s from a musical family. “My parents were very fine amateur musicians. They actually met playing in a brass band in Auckland’s North Shore.” The family of five also lived in the UK and Rotorua, and moved to Wellington when Aaron was 10. “At age 13, I was getting into punk music when I heard

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Dad play for what’s now the Wellington Brass Band. They performed a complex piece and I realised brass bands aren’t all about stirring wartime-march songs, and hymns. Yes, brass bands will always perform those things, but we’re catching up with modernity. Our band’s playing some new music.” His own compositions have been performed by ensembles including the Auckland Philharmonia Orchestra, and the New Zealand String Quartet. He’s occasionally conducted his own compositions, but prefers not to. “When you’re nervous your perception of time changes and, as a conductor, timing is essential.” Over the years, he hasn’t yearned to be a professional musician. “I sometimes thought, ‘have I got the talent to make a living from this?’ But, at 46, looking back, I’m happy with my decisions.” After high school, he completed a Bachelor of Music and Bachelor of Laws at Victoria University. He worked for a law firm for a few years before doing a Master’s Degree in Music Theory and Composition. This saw him write an opera, which was performed by the Wellington Brass Band (not your usual combo). After working as a barrister/solicitor, he had various legal roles, including 11 years at the Ministry for Social Development. He’s now Principal Legal Counsel for Manatū Taonga Ministry of Culture and Heritage, working from the 111-year-old Public Trust Office Building on Lambton Quay, one of Wellington's most ornate heritage buildings with its curved corner site. “I really have one client: the Crown. A typical day boils down to reading, writing, and talking. My team provides legal advice on a broad range of things, from complying with the Official Information Act, to advising on the Ministry’s taonga tūturu law which protects precious objects relating to Māori culture, history, or society.” Working at MCH gives him a feeling of contributing to culture and society.

Do people sometimes spell his surname wrongly? “All the time! It’s an Americanised spelling. Many generations ago the Lloydd family came here from Connecticut.” “There’s actually a quite well-known lawyer, Aaron Lloyd, and people mix us up. We’ve never met, but once someone at the Law Society said to me ‘Great submission on that Bill!’.’’ The other Aaron is sometimes interviewed as a legal pundit – “and one day my granddad told me he’d seen me on TV. That’s how I knew his eyesight had gone!” Aaron has made close friends in the small Wellington brass-band scene. "If they leave Wellington, they’ll remain in touch. If I’m out of town for work, I’m welcome at their rehearsals." The band has vacated its long-time rehearsal room (“a tiny, freezing little shack”) and upgraded to a former Scout Hall, with "more natural light, better acoustics, and some elbow room.” They’re planning an opening ceremony on 24 October. Due to the pandemic the regional champs and the New Zealand Brass Band Championships have had to skip a year. He coped okay during lockdown. “My workload was insane, and I had to look after my son [five] and daughter [eight]. But I was lucky given many people lost their jobs.” He shared child-minding with wife Lorena Gibson, a Victoria University anthropology lecturer who plays bass guitar in a band. Aside from Lorena, what’s his greatest love – law or music? “Both. I don’t want to only do one. I think about giving legal advice the same way I think about writing music – the process of communicating complex ideas in the simplest way. When I’ve managed a team of lawyers, it was like conducting a band: not always telling them what to do, but supporting them to be the best they can. Both kinds of conducting are really satisfying.”

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M U S I C

Making a racket P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A N N A B R I G G S

Wellington’s clubs and bars may come and go, but the music that drives listeners to stay out till sunrise is timeless. Freddie Williamson talks to Benn Jeffries about vinyl, vibing, and the B side of the record.

reddie Williamson is nocturnal most weekends, but during the week he starts his days early to work on his labour of love, record label Racquet Club. He specialises in house and techno, dance music genres that have been in and out of fashion over the years but look to be making a strong resurgence. Freddie is part of the scene growing this musical niche. In 2019, Racquet Club put out their first record, Network EP, which showcased an assortment of kiwi artists on pressed vinyl. It was the first club record pressed in New Zealand since the closure of the EMI pressing plant in 1987. “All the tracks on there were created on a computer or synthesiser,” says Freddie. “They’ve forever been this digital file. They never existed until we pressed it onto a record. You can hold it and smell it. It’s tangible. Bringing the music into the physical world has been a trip. Even if people don’t have a record player, so many people have bought it.” Freddie says the EP capitalises on the two sides vinyl offers to showcase a variety of styles. “Sonically it’s a very diverse record.” He suggests imagining the A side and B side as distinct, consolidated offerings. “On a record, you can have a definitive break, which you don’t have digitally.” The A side of Network EP offers high-energy tracks from Current Bias, Lowquid, and Hypna, while the B side is lighter with Wellingtonians Benny Salvador and Borrowed CS. Freddie realised the calibre of New Zealand’s talent and his desire to showcase it after travelling through Europe (the birthplace of techno) and performing in some of its notorious night clubs. When he returned to Wellington, he put his energy into the music scene here and started Racquet Club. “There is no better place to be than Wellington. The

people that I’m surrounded by, the quality of artists, musicians, designers, writers – I’d be silly to give that up.” Freddie did bring back some of the tricks he learned in Europe, though. When the Covid-19 lockdown was lifted, Racquet Club hosted a soldout show at Meow. Instead of selling to the venue’s capacity and making more money, Freddie dropped the number by 120. “I wanted people to have room to dance,” he says. Club etiquette isn’t the only change Freddie wants to make. He thinks that a busy nightlife is a cornerstone of a great city, and he wants to see our nightlife grow and mature. Freddie says we’ll achieve nothing if we keep adding restrictions and brushing the issues that come with a bustling nightlife under the rug. One of the particularly harmful issues facing our nightlife is drug use. “You have to be so naive to think kids are going out dancing till 4am and not taking drugs. I’m not saying everyone does it, but it’s very prevalent.” Bars and clubs in New Zealand see someone on drugs and put them out on the street, which separates them from their friends. Freddie says this is when problems arise. In Europe, he saw clubs take responsibility for such people and help them. Freddie is a musician himself but doesn’t feature on the EP. “I want it to be a platform for New Zealand talent.” When making his own music, he goes by the name Uber Driver, and he describes his tracks as techno in the broadest sense. He says techno has been around for decades yet artists are still producing music that sounds fresh with the same original backbone. “I’m constantly amazed at how effective a four-four kick is with an offbeat high hat.”

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Coastal kai Seafood is a point of pride for many New Zealanders and yet our fishing industry is in a state of disrepair. Benn Jeffries tracked down one South Wairarapa couple who are determined to right some of the industry’s wrongs.

he mornings can be icy cold in South Wairarapa. It’s 6am and the rumble of an idling truck is the only sound in the small coastal settlement of Tora. Standing in the beam of the truck headlights, Troy Bramley appears to be unfazed by the chill. He wears white gumboots stained with fish blood and a thin cotton hoody, from which his long, tangled hair spills out. We shake hands in the pre-dawn dark. His are rough – the hands of a fisherman. Troy has lived in Tora almost all his life. Now, with his partner Claire Edwards, he runs a fishing business called Tora Collective. It’s not your usual operation, though; they work on a to-order basis, directly supplying highend restaurants and consumers around New Zealand. Their main goal has been to put top-quality seafood back on the tables of Kiwis. “New Zealand has had the dregs of the industry for years,” Troy explains as we drive down to the beach. “The rejects stay here. Crayfish often have legs missing and are damaged and weak. They’re held in holding tanks for months. If a crayfish dies they smell test them, tail them and then they go to the local market. Everything of quality gets shipped to the overseas market.” As the sky lightens I get more sense of Tora’s wildness; mist rises from the swell as it collides with the shore. The sky is grey and the sea a murky turquoise. The land is

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steep and rugged, shaped by the ocean’s attrition. The setting reminds me of an old film photograph with its washed colours and grain. Troy parks his truck next to his boat, Tākitimu, which sits ready to be launched by a rusted old bulldozer. Tākitimu is named after the waka that first brought Māori to this part of New Zealand. It is a vessel that looks like it belongs on this harsh coast – a steel-hulled workhorse. I throw my gear on board and Isaac the deckhand fires up the bulldozer to back us into the sea. “We’ve got an order for 40 kilos of paua and a haul of crayfish,” Troy tells me as we motor out of the bay. We stick close to the shore, weaving between rocks with trailing skirts of bull kelp. Troy explains the landscape to me, pointing out boundary lines, reef systems, and shipwrecks. The tide is low and some cattle have come down onto the exposed rocks to eat the seaweed. “They know what the tides are doing. They’ll start wandering down just as it goes low.” Ten kilometres north of Tora, we anchor out from a reef. A large bull seal swims on the surface, which I point out to Troy. “Yeah, I wasn’t gonna tell you,” he laughs and starts to pull on his dive gear. “You’re still coming with me, right? I’m putting you to work mate.” Determined to do all the city boys proud, I grudgingly pull on my wetsuit and slip over the side into the water. I tail Troy and watch as he dives down, disappearing amongst the tangled arms of kelp to surface moments later with a few more paua in his dive bag. He is as agile in the

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water as he is on land. I collect a measly few, then return to the boat as the chills start to set in. Troy spends another hour and a half in the water, ferrying dive bags of paua back to the boat. He returns for the final time and devours a sandwich. “We keep track of which areas we work,” he says over a mouthful, “so we can rest them once we’ve harvested there.” Tora Collective also voluntarily stops harvesting paua during spawning, and has increased their minimum size of female crayfish by 2mm above the legal minimum. Troy’s sandwich seems to have been inhaled, and before I can comment the anchor is hauled and we’re off pulling crayfish pots in close to the rocks. Troy measures one of these “bugs,” as they are known, and invites me to take a look. It is a female in berry, her underside covered with thousands of tiny red eggs ready to be released. Despite handling them most days, Troy is still in awe of these creatures. He did a year of marine biology at Victoria University and while the degree was never finished, it’s clear the science still excites him. He has a deep respect for the kai moana he harvests. Crays are handled with care to ensure they are not damaged and can be returned to the sea healthy if they prove to be under size or in berry. This order for kai moana is going to restaurants throughout New Zealand, to clients including Al Brown’s Depot in Auckland, and Wellington’s Shepherd on Eva Street and Rita in Aro Valley. All of it fresh and delivered live. During the Covid-19

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lockdown, with the restaurants closed, Tora Collective began delivering direct to the consumer. “It was a real hit,” Troy says. “People from all over were ordering from us. Cannons Creek was one of our busiest spots in Wellington. A lot of the families there normally gather kai moana themselves, so when lockdown hit they turned to us.” After pulling a dozen pots we head back into shore. Claire, Troy’s partner, is there on the beach with the bulldozer. Back on land she takes me through the packaging of the seafood. Seaweed that has washed up on the beach is used to protect the crayfish, then it’s boxed in plant-based packaging that can be home composted. “The ice packs are the same,” Troy says. “We fill them with Tora water. So when you get your crays and you want to boil them, you just empty your ice packs and cook them with the fresh Tora water. You can’t recreate seawater.” Up at their house nestled amongst the bush, I stand beside a wood burner oven to warm up and entertain their new puppy, while Troy and Claire start cooking. “We don’t eat as much seafood as people think. When you handle it all day you generally want a break from it.” Troy confesses a love for seaweed though, even admitting to bathing in paddle weed now and then. “How do you think my skin looks so good?” he jokes. We sit down outside beside a brazier and get stuck into a couple of crayfish. The surrounding bush is full of bird song and I can make out the sound of the swell breaking on the shore. Troy and Claire share stories about how they got Tora Collective up and running. “I think it was our first ever order, we had to get seventy-odd paua,” Claire tells me. “Troy lost his mask so he went down with my bright pink one on. It was rough as hell and he had to spend

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four hours in the water diving while I stayed on the boat throwing up over the side.” They both laugh at the memory, but I can see it has been a true labour of love getting the business going. Afterwards, I ask Troy what he thinks of the quota management system, which has been under heavy criticism for some years now. “The methods need to be more sustainable. I don’t know if you have to change the whole system to take out trawling and the parts of the industry that aren’t great. There are some really good things going on in terms of science.” He explains that their take has been increased and cut at different times “depending on what the data is saying. We had a 35% cut because the fishery wasn’t performing a couple of years ago. Those baseline things are really good.” Troy says a lot of Kiwis don’t realise that most of New Zealand’s fishery is owned by a handful of companies. They determine where the product goes and have a great deal of sway in an industry full of faults. Family-owned quota is rare nowadays. Tora Collective was lucky and managed to buy their quota from a fisherman in Hawkes Bay. “The old fella didn’t tell his kids that he was selling it. He wanted it to go to a fishing family, not one of the big companies. He gave us first opportunity at it, which was cool because those opportunities don’t come up much.” Claire and Troy say they’ve been “stubbornly determined” to return quality seafood to New Zealanders and do it sustainably. They say it’s about doing something that’s right for the environment. “It’s cost us more, for sure,” Claire says. “But we’re here now.”

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Beer necessities 2020 I N T RO D U C E D BY TA ST I N G CO N V E N O R ST E P H A N I E CO U T TS

ur beer and hospitality businesses have been affected by Aotearoa’s fight against the Covid-19 pandemic. They’ve had to change the way they do business, and have lost business, during our elevated alert levels. This challenging year has meant that fewer breweries and beers were entered this year. And there were no contract brands competing. But there was still healthy competition and many high quality, deliciously drinkable beers were entered for judging. There’s never been a better time to drink local and support New Zealand’s independently owned or operated breweries and the bars that stock their products. This year’s tasting will help you to pick and mix your spring and summer beers, to decide what to drink in bars, and to pick beers for special occasions. The beers entered this year speak to a trend we are seeing of a narrowing of styles in packaged beer. The bulk of the 103 beers tasted by our judges were lagers and pilsners, pale ales and IPAs. Far fewer kettle sours, porters, stouts, and other interesting or unusual styles were entered. The good news is that most of the lagers and pilsners were on form. The pale lager style is the measure of a good brewery and brewer, as faults in these beers are hard to hide. “Hazies” or New England IPAs remained popular. They are an accessible style, and often a good gateway into beer. They should have a big, juicy, fruity nose and are generally defined by “new

world” hops. These are hops that come from the United States, New Zealand, and Australia, many of which have citrus or tropical fruit characters. Hazies should look just the opposite of a crystalclear mainstream lager. Some are downright murky and take a bit of getting used to. The fruit aromas should carry through to the flavour. Hazies are often sweet but they should have enough bitterness to provide balance and drinkability. This year the beers judged came from 24 breweries from places including Auckland, Gisborne, New Plymouth and Dunedin. If you’re in the regions holidaying at home this year, hunt out locals like Sunshine Brewery in Gisborne or Three Sisters Brewery in Oakura. Brew Moon in Amberley is a great stop for pizza and beer, and The Rising Tide, home of the Mount Brewing Company cellar door, is also known for its dumplings. Our judges were focussed on the consumer experience. They looked for beers that were consistent with the style on the label – no East India Pales Ales getting confused with IPAs. IPA stands for India Pale Ale; traditionally an English style that was revived by the new wave of American independent brewers around 30 years ago (not long ago in beer-years). The judges rated fault-free beers that they could drink happily themselves, and recommend to you readers, whether locals or further afield. Get out there and try their recommendations. Drink local and stay safe.

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The judging panel

Stephanie Coutts Steph was our head judge and steward. She owns Craft Beer College and is a Certified Cicerone. She runs beer tastings and tours, sharing her passion for all things beer.

Manaia Hunt Manaia is the assistant brewer at Choice Bros Brewery, and has been an “experimental” home brewer for the past five years.

Denise Garland Denise has been involved in beer for 10 years as a writer, home brewer, consumer, judge, and drinker. She’s New Zealand’s current beer writer of the year.

Jono Galuszka Jono is a former Beer Writer of the Year and a correspondent for The Crafty Pint. He’s written for Stuff and the Sunday Star Times, and judged multiple beer awards.

Nisha Pullan Nisha is a Certified Cicerone and is working towards a Beer Judge Certification Programme qualification. She has worked in beer bars and breweries, and at Regional Wines and Spirits. She’s also a home brewer.

Colin Mallon Colin owns the Sprig and Fern in Tawa, a new role after years as the Operations Director for The Malthouse and Fork and Brewer. He has judged multiple awards including the World Beer Cup.

Marcus Ebert Marcus is a brewer at Fortune Favours and holds a Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling. This is his first foray into beer judging.

David Wood Dave “the beer guy” is a long-time stalwart of the New Zealand beer community; a past president of Society of Beer Advocates, SOBA, he’s run numerous great beer bars and is general manager at Heyday Brewing.

Molly Jones Molly is the owner of The Curator Project and co-founder of There’s No Such Thing as a “Girls’ Beer” and XX Fest. She has studied the visual evolution of New Zealand beer, and the overlap of beer and the arts.

Emma Bell Emma is a brewer at Kereru Brewing Company, and has a wide range of brewery experience including hosting tastings and tours. She’s judged a number of beer awards.

sunday

Eat. Drink. Be Entertained.

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The six pack T H E TO P S I X B E E RS AS C H OS E N BY O U R PA N E L

his top six is a truly great mix of beers and breweries. More than six beers were scored at five out of five, by our judges, with a “taste-off ” at the end of the judging session. There was keen competition to be showcased in the six-pack, and a number of other beers only missed by the narrowest of margins. Keep an eye out for them on page 54. The six-pack starts with a light Europeanstyle lager great for quaffing in the sun. A note about that: hops degrade really quickly when exposed to light, so while you are sitting in the sun, protect your beer from it. Wrap a stubby holder around your glass – not joking! The pack also includes a complex, salty gose, which is truly the finest example of the style brewed in New Zealand. There’s a hazy that wowed our judges, a classic porter, a delicious red rye imperial pale ale and a huge imperial vanilla porter brewed to celebrate the brewery’s birthday. They’re listed below in a loose drinking order – save the big ones for the end, and drink them in smaller quantities.

Zeelandt Brewery Jerry Rig

North End Brewery Become the Ocean

Helles

Gose

Zeelandt Brewery is in sunny Hawkes Bay. It opened in 2012, and has been showcasing a range of beers with strong links to European brewing traditions. This beer is their example of a Munich Helles, an easy-drinking lager style. Jerry Rig ticks all the boxes, being clean, with light bready and cereal malt characters and hints of fresh hay. Our judges thought it finished with slightly more bitterness than the traditional style but this made it eminently smashable. They suggested it should be released in six-packs for summer.

This batch of Become the Ocean is one the brewer is proud of, and so they should be. Our judges wanted more of this beer. They commented on its light sea-spray and spicy aroma, tart lemon and salty characters, and the mouthwatering finish that invited you back for another sip. A gose is a beer style from Goslar near the Gose River in Germany. It is thought that the salty character of the town’s water carried through subtly into the beer. Become the Ocean is appropriately named to hint at this traditional character and also to tie the beer to the brewery in coastal Waikanae.

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8 Wired Brewery Hop Salad

Emerson’s Brewer London Porter

Fortune Favours MMXIX

Hazy IPA

Porter

Three Sisters Brewery Roses & Rivets

The brewery has recently opened a tap room in Matakana which is well worth a visit when time and alert levels allow. When you’re there, give this hazy a try, along with one or two of their excellent barrel-aged range. This beer has a soft haziness but retains some brightness in its appearance. There’s a mix of New Zealand, Australian, and American hops, almost all with a tropical bent. This comes through on the punchy aroma and in the flavour, which from the judge’s descriptions is reminiscent of fruit salad: pineapple, peach, kiwifruit, orange, and lime. There’s enough bitterness on the finish to make this highly drinkable.

London Porter was the beer that launched Emerson’s Brewery. It is a testament to the Godfather of Beer, Richard Emerson, that it continues to shine, with a deep, ruby-red glow that impressed our judges. They reported biscuit and chocolate characters on the aroma, with hints of red berry. The beer has a flavour reminiscent of black forest cake and finishes with some roasty, toasty notes making for a rounded, bittersweet but dry finish. Richard would match it with a smoky whisky and blue cheese, for those who are not faint of heart.

Three Sisters Brewery from Oakura in Taranaki have been sneaking into the scene over the past few years, brewing some excellent beers that are well worth hunting out, this being no exception. Their Roses and Rivets impressed our judges with its deep red hue and big whack of tropical and citrusdriven hops and hints of rye-spice on the aroma. The beer was rounded and full-bodied on the palate, integrated, and well-balanced. The caramel notes from the malt entwined with the hop bitterness make the beer dangerously easy to drink for 8.5%.

This beer was brewed for Fortune Favours’ birthday in 2019, and is a fine example of how certain beers can develop over time – just like wine. If you’re going to cellar a beer, make it a big and complex one like this vanilla, bourbonbarrel-aged porter. The beer poured with a deep hue and a silky tan head. The judges all noted the chocolate, caramel, and vanilla aroma, one commenting it was decadent. This carried through on the palate which was rounded and creamy. But the finish had enough bitterness to balance out the dessert-like flavours. This is a beer to sup and to pour over the best vanilla ice-cream you can find.

Red Rye Imperial IPA

Imperial Vanilla Porter

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The best of the the rest

The pale lager style is pretty straightforward. The beer should generally be crystal clear with light biscuit malt characters and generally low levels of hopping.

Session pale ales and India Pale Ales (IPAs)

Fortune Favours Brewery Trailblazer – Lager This beer scored a five for being everything it should be. It was clean and crisp, with light, biscuit malt and obvious New Zealand hop characters of passionfruit and minerals.

5 4 3

These beers are “mini” versions of the more traditional style, being low in alcohol by volume (ABV). They can be hard to balance. Double Vision Brewery Magical A.F. – Session Hazy Pale Ale This is the session hazy for drivers or those taking it easy this summer, at 4.5%. It has zesty lime and pineapple aromas and a juicy, tropical fruit flavour. The great mouthfeel hides the low ABV. Emerson's Brewery Bookbinder – Session Ale Has there ever been a year this reliable and delicious session ale hasn’t rated? With biscuit malts, and hints of orange and passionfruit, it’s delightfully balanced and rewarding, with a low 3.7% ABV.

Kettle sours These beers are soured as part of the brewing process, not in a barrel. They should be tart and refreshing, not so acidic that they suck your face in. They’re often flavoured. North End Brewery Petit Luna – Hibiscus and Lime Sour Pouring with a hazy pink hue, this beer has a lime and cranberry aroma. It has a robust mouthfeel and finishes dry and refreshingly tart.

Pale lagers

Emerson’s Brewery Underground – Lager This was a clean lager with light bready malt notes, and grass hop aromas with hints of a summer’s garden. It poured bright and clear and had a soft balanced bitterness on the finish. Double Vision Brewery The Classic – NZ Lager Pouring a bright dandelion yellow, this beer had bready malt notes and a light, fruity hop aroma. It was clean on the palate with a slightly sweet, apple-like finish.

New Zealand pilsner lagers

Hop Federation Pilsner – NZ Pilsner This was a punchy and super fresh beer with huge passionfruit and dank resinous hop characters. It was bright in appearance, aroma and flavour with a bitter, mineral finish. It was tasting on-point. Sunshine Brewery Pilsner – NZ Pilsner This was a bright, pale yellow beer with the gooseberry, grassy, and mineral aromas that define the style. It had a soft, pleasant bitterness with well-balanced light malt and citrus hop flavours. Abandoned Brewery Abandoned Pilsner – NZ Pilsner Straw yellow in colour, this beer had great clarity. There was a water-cracker malt character, and tropical and diesellike hop aromas and flavours. It finished with good balance. Fortune Favours The Adventurer – NZ Pilsner This beer had a slight chill haze, and smelled of gooseberries and citrus trees. The citrus carried over into the flavour which also included fresh grassy characters.

Dark lagers

The New Zealand pilsner style has recently entered the official style guide and is defined by our gooseberry, tropical, and minerally hops.

There is quite a range of dark lager styles. The beers listed below are amber to black, and more flavourful than a pale lager.

Tuatara Brewery Pilsner – NZ Pilsner Given this beer is one that defines the style, there’s no surprise it received a five. It was bright and well-balanced with a distinct minerally New Zealand hop aroma and flavour.

Zeelandt Brewery Black Monk – Schwarzbier Pouring with a soft red hue, this beer had aromas of bittersweet chocolate which followed through to the flavour. It was rounded and smooth on the palate with a subtle bitter finish.

Emerson’s Brewery Pilsner – NZ Pilsner This beer is the original New Zealand Pilsner and poured with a great, white head. There were light bready malt characters, citrus, and hints of sulphur. Easy drinking, it finished with a dry bitterness.

Tuatara Brewery Midnight Sun – Baltic Porter This is a dark beer with a deep redbrown colour. There were toast, caramel, and red berry on the aroma and it had a surprisingly juicy mouthfeel without being overly sweet.

F E AT U R E

XPA Overseas, XPAs usually sit somewhere between a pale ale and IPA, but here in New Zealand they are often lighter in style and designed as a refreshing summer-style ale. Choice Bros Brewery Puppet Dancer – Hazy XPA This is a pale yellow, hazy beer with big pineapple and citrus characters on the aroma. There are sweet malts entwined with pineapple and citrus hop flavours, and a nice balance. Quaffable. Abandoned Brewery Doof Juice – XPA This beer pours straw-coloured and with a slight haze. There were tropical notes on the aroma, and passionfruit and mango flavours. It was light and spritzy and will be easy summer drinking.

Hazy Pale Ales and IPAs These beers have a juicy fruity aroma and citrus or tropical fruit characters. They should have a distinctly hazy appearance, with some even looking murky. Tuatara Brewery Hazy Pale Ale – Hazy Pale Ale Available in a six-pack, this beer presented with orange and mango aromas and flavours. It was juicy with a nice bitter finish, making it a very drinkable beer. Abandoned Brewery Hazy #3 – Hazy IPA With a milky looking haze, this beer had stone fruit and mango characters on the aroma and in the flavour. It finished slightly sweet. Brew Moon Brewing Company Waipara Rima – Hazy IPA This beer had a creamy texture, with a dry finish that made you want another sip. There were pineapple and lime in the aroma and flavour.

Three Sisters Brewery Sup Bro – Hazy IPA There were peaches, kiwifruit, and citrus characters to this tropical beer. It had a nice hazy appearance and poured with a good head. There was a slight alcohol sweetness on the finish.

Tuatara Brewery Aotearoa Pale Ale – NZ Pale Ale The only New Zealand Pale Ale to rate, this is a classic beer with a solid malt backbone and gooseberry hop aromas. It has a balanced, rounded mouthfeel that finishes quickly.

Emerson’s Brewery Hazed and Confused – Hazy IPA Scoring the same as last year, this reliable beer presented with orange, mango, and pine characters. It is easy-drinking and balanced, sitting somewhere between pale ale and IPA.

Tuatara Brewery Tuatara APA – American Pale Ale Clear and honey-like in hue, this beer had lightly toasted, bready malts, with notes of lemon and earth on the aroma. The flavours combined oranges and lemons, and a light malt sweetness.

Mt Brewing Company Crazy Hazy Daze – Hazy Pale Ale This beer was peachy in appearance, with pineapple aromas. It had a juicy mouthfeel, with pineapple, mango, and grape flavours entwined with an earthy hop bitterness.

Fortune Favours Brewery The Possessed – American Pale Ale The beer was honey-coloured, with a slight haze. There were some cereal-like malt characters, along with grapefruit and mango. Hints of malt sweetness rounded out the subtle citrus flavours.

Mean Doses Brewery Mean Juices – Hazy Pale Ale This beer poured pale yellow and truly hazy. It had a subtle citrus and stonefruit aroma, with orange juice flavours and a thick, rounded mouthfeel.

Pale Ales

IPAs IPAs generally have high levels of hop aroma and bitterness, with a solid malty backbone. Although they can be big beers, they should have balance and drinkability.

Pale ales should be well-balanced and drinkable. The malt sweetness and hops should be well integrated, enabling you to drink more than one.

Emerson’s Brewery American Graffiti – US IPA The beer poured bright copper and had a strong orange aroma. There was malt sweetness, citrus, and tropical fruit flavour with a delightful sherbet tang.

Sunshine Brewery Pale Ale – American Pale Ale The beer poured delightfully bright. There were lychees and lemon on the nose, with lemon and mandarin flavours woven with honey-like malt characters. It was spritzy and easy drinking.

Emerson’s Brewery Bird Dog – US IPA This beer poured golden orange with orange, tangelo, and pine on the aroma. There were brown sugar malt and citrus pith flavours, and a moreish bitter finish.

North End Brewery Super Alpha – Pacific Pale Ale This beer is an easy drinker with hints of citrus fruits and lychees on the aroma. It is light bodied, with a balanced bitterness on the finish. Designed for drinking after a day at the beach.

Abandoned Brewery Abandoned Red IPA – Red IPA This beer had a dark copper colour, zesty orange aromas, and a jaffa-like orange and chocolate flavour. It was well-balanced with a dry finish, and highly drinkable.

F E AT U R E

Fortune Favours The Wellingtonian – NZ IPA There were pineapple and pine needles on the aroma of this beer. It combined light, sweet malts and juicy hop flavours to make it well-balanced and refreshingly drinkable.

North End Brewery Grisette Brett Reserve – Farmhouse Ale Back again this year, this is a hazy beer with lemon sherbet and hints of funk on the aroma. It has citrus flavours and a light, dry, and slightly acidic finish. It’s interesting and refreshing.

Heyday Beer Co West Coast IPA – US IPA The beer had the resinous grapefruit and pine aromas expected of the style. There was a balanced bitterness and notes of pear on the finish.

Tuatara Brewery Conviction – Belgian Tripel This beer poured clear, with cloves and hints of green banana and bubble gum on the aroma and a light spicy flavour. It had a rich mouthfeel and hints of booziness without being overpowering.

Mean Doses Brewery Mean Red IPA – Red IPA Pouring with a delightful red hue, this beer had citrus aromas and flavours that combined with sweet toffee malt characters. It had a subtly sweet finish. Double Vision Brewery Red Rascal – Red IPA This beer poured a dark copper colour and had a tropical and passionfruit aroma. The flavour combined toast and sweet red berry malt characters, and resinous hops. Mean Doses Brewery Mean IPA – NZ IPA This was a light coloured and bodied, easy-drinking IPA, with a dry bitter finish. There were aromas of gooseberries, and citrus characters on the aroma and in the flavour.

Belgian The Belgians brew a huge range of beer styles, and many are known for their interesting yeast characters and often their ABV. The beers below are all quite diverse but definitely delicious. North End Brewery Baby Grand – Flanders Red Copper in colour, this sour red ale had apples and oak on the aroma, and a tarty woody flavour with hints of balsamic vinegar and green apples. It finished with a dry, moreish acidity.

Scotch Ales These are malt-focussed beers, with low levels of hop flavour and bitterness. They’ve come to be known to have a peaty character although this does not define the style. Renaissance Brewery Stonecutter – Scotch Ale This classic was tasting in fine form. It poured deep red-brown with a thick head. There were biscuit and toffee aromas, that carried through to toffee and caramel flavours and a nice balanced finish. Sprig and Fern Brewery Scotch Ale – Scotch Ale Smoky notes defined the aroma and flavour of this beer. Underneath, there was a toffee sweetness and hints of toast. There was a light sweetness on the palate but the beer finished dry.

Porters and stouts The dark colour in porters and stouts comes from dark malts. They can be deep red-brown to black and often show characters of chocolate, coffee, and toast. Renaissance Brewery Elemental Porter – Porter This beer has been tasting damn fine

on tap lately. It pours dark ruby and has roasty, coffee characters on the aroma that follow through in the flavour, combined with some dark berries. Sunshine Brewer Port Barrel Imperial Stout – Barrel-aged Imperial Stout This is a deep black beer with vinous, barrel characters with raisins, toffee, and chocolate. It has a boozy chocolate and jam flavour with hints of vanilla sneaking in. Sunshine Brewery Stout – Milk Stout Pours classic black with a rich tan head, this beer had roasty coffee and chocolate aromas that followed through into the flavour profile. It was smooth, creamy, and beautifully balanced. North End Brewery Iron Sands – Oatmeal Rye Stout This beer was described as velvety and integrated by the judges, who all enjoyed the complex malt aromas and flavours, including chocolate, caramel, and sultanas. Choice Bros Brewing Midnight City – Sweet Stout This beer had an impressive deep red colour. There were milo and coffee aromas with hints of dried fruits. It tasted like a creamy, slightly sweet chocolate drink. Perfect for a sweet tooth. Emerson's Brewery Phantom Lord – Stout A deep black beer with a thick, creamy head. This stout was roasty with hints of liquorice and molasses. It was rounded with a dark chocolate flavour and bitterness on the finish. Te Aro Brewery Dubh X – Oatmeal Stout This beer had a hint of roast, and characters that included liquorice, dark chocolate, and bananas on the aroma and in the flavour. There was a dry, roasty bitterness on the finish.

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The others There are always a couple of beers that don’t fit into the broad categories we’ve used to group the results.

Choice Bros Brewery Soul Harvest – Italian Grape Beer This beer had a wine-like appearance and aroma with grape characters clearly evident on the aroma and palate, along with a spicy yeast and mineral hop characters. It was interesting and unique. Three Sisters Brewery Hot Rod – Manuka Smoked Lager Visually delightful with a peachy, amber colour, and the aroma was manuka smoke, resinous, and woody. It was rounded on the palate with balanced smoky bacon and maple flavours. Double Vision Brewery Smooth Operator – Cream Ale This is an uncommon style of beer which was described as “a bit of fun” by the judges. It pours light copper in colour, and is smooth and round on the palate, with low bitterness and vanilla characters. Zeelandt Brewery Worker’s Unite – Saison This beer pours with a white, pillowy head, and has the spicy aromas you’d expect of the style. The flavour notes include banana and cloves. It’s spritzy and finishes dry. Tuatara Brewery Hefe – Hefeweizen New Zealand’s most awarded Hefe always rates a mention. The beer poured with a slight haze and golden in colour. It had orange and bananalike aromas and flavours, and slightly soapy finish.

“The most perfect escape - views, comfort, silence and beaches just a stone’s throw away” “This place exceeded my expectations. A really beautiful place to stay” “Exceptional”

Waihi beach @amongstthenikau amongstthenikau.co.nz

F E AT U R E

Hot right now Apostle Hot Sauce co-creator Lydia Harfield tells Rachel Helyer Donaldson how the right blend of flavour and striking design has performed miracles for the fledgling Paekākāriki brand.

hen it comes to hot sauce it’s not always about going for the burn. For the makers of Apostle Hot Sauce, a distinctive range of smallbatch sauces handmade in Paekākāriki, it’s about complementing a dish rather than overwhelming it with spice. “We like a bit of spice but we were focused on getting a really beautiful flavour,” says Apostle’s Lydia Harfield. “We’ve found that really successful because we’ve got a wider market than what you would with a really, really hot sauce. All sorts of people love our sauce.” Apostle Hot Sauce was officially launched last December, starting as a cult condiment stocked in only a few places. It is now hot property. There were a couple of “quite scary” months during lockdown, particularly as the other creator Mat Watkins had just quit his job to focus on Apostle. “Then things picked up again, drastically,” says Lydia. “It was definitely the right decision.” Sales are now triple those at the start of the year. Apostle is stocked by around 60 retailers: nationwide from Dargaville to Dunedin, three stores overseas in Melbourne, Sydney and Hong Kong, and Farro Fresh in Auckland, Moore Wilson’s in Wellington, and Commonsense Organics’ five North Island stores. Mat first started experimenting with sauce recipes a few years ago while flatting in Kelburn. Their neighbours, who were retailers, promised to stock it once Apostle set up. “We were really lucky to get a foot in the door.” There are four sauces so far, all invented by Mat, who has a background in food production. Roasted capsicum and chilli (Saint Phillip) sells the most, says Lydia – “it’s the classic”; but the others – chocolate and manuka chipotle (Saint Matthew), kiwifruit and kawakawa verde (Saint Peter), and mango, turmeric and ginger (Saint John) – are not far behind.

Lydia has a degree in graphic design, so the couple’s skills were “very compatible” for starting up a food brand together. In 2018 they swapped their “mouldy, dark” flat in Kelburn for a beach house in Paekākāriki and began selling the sauce at the local monthly market, where it gained a loyal following. The seaside community, full of entrepreneurs and creatives, is extremely supportive of people “giving it a go”, says Lydia. “It’s inspiring.” It took a while to set up properly. New Zealand’s crowded food market meant the right look was crucial. “Having a label that is different is important, just to get people to try it.” It’s a decision which has paid off. Apostle’s branding – which comes from the couple’s love of Christian iconography and tarot cards, with drawings by Union Tattoo artist Juju – is Instagramcatnip. Apostle gets most of its wholesale customers this way, says Lydia. “Shops contact us and say your product looks great, can we stock it?” Lydia works full-time at Studio Pacific Architecture. The couple spend their Saturdays producing the sauces out of Paekākāriki Pops’s commercial kitchen. It takes them seven or eight hours to make about 500 to 600 bottles. Two new sauces, Saint Andrew and Judas, are on their way. Apostle Hot Sauce will also add a pungent kick to several Wellington on a Plate menus. Longer term, the couple would like to keep Apostle handmade and to both work on it full time. “We really love food, the actual making of the sauce, doing it together on a Saturday. It’s a balance between growing enough so you can have a sustainable business but not going so far that you lose control of your product.” Apostle sauces are in some of the Capital gift boxes. See capitalmag.co.nz/shop

ORGANIC dness

oo g W A R

IN EVERY

bite

Decadent dates, nutritious nuts and magical matcha simply smooshed together with a splash of fresh cold-pressed lime oil.

Matcha Raw Bar - Capital Magazine.indd 3

7/09/2020 12:47:06 PM

EVERYTHING EVErYTHING YOU WANT IN A PALE ALE CALLED PALE ALE.

MALTY

HOPPY

LIGHT

DArK

sweet

bitter

F E AT U R E

Energizer buddies WAT E RCO LO U R I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY H A R L E Y N G U Y E N

For this blind taste-test, three 20-somethings plagued by sleepiness, low energy, or lack of motivation took six different energy balls and bars for a spin. Our testers reported back on the personality of each tasty morsel and rated them on taste (1 being a ball of hay, 5 being a mouth party) and how energised they felt (1 being Netflix in bed, 5 ready for Round the Bays).

Caleb Snowdon lacks motivation most days and has been known to bail on football in favour of sitting around watching Tik Tok (don’t tell the team).

Cina West is super snoozy. This affliction has led to missed coffee dates, party absquatulating, and overshooting her intended destination by three hours when she fell asleep on a fast train in Europe.

Annie Keig is an introvert so needs to budget her energy throughout the day. If she bails on brunch, she’s probably in bed listening to an audio book and staring at the ceiling.

Twigland Gardeners World has a superb range of plants and gardening related products, including all your favourites and those not easily procured. Come visit Wellington’s favourite garden centre and the very popular Café Thyme Only 15 minutes from downtown Wellington 240 Middleton Road, Glenside Open every day from 9am to 6pm

F E AT U R E

Valley Vibes beauty bliss balls

Bicycle Junction bliss balls

Coconut, almonds, blue pea butterfly powder, topped with white choc and raspberry $32 for a pack of 6

Fresh dates, almond flakes, almond flour, premium Dutch cocoa, orange zest, coconut oil, toasted cashews, crushed pistachio nuts $2.50 per ball

Tasters’ comments: Remember being a kid and eating playdough? Imagine a light blue ball of playdough with a dollop of white frosting and a dried raspberry on top. Are you picturing it? Does it look good enough to eat? Yes, yes it does. Inner child, prepare for taste liftoff. Softer than expected when biting down, maybe too soft, and too big but tastes scrummy. If these balls were a person: They’d have a pool in their back yard. “Maybe that’s just the coconut making me dream of summer but I would love to be this person’s friend.” Average taste score: 3.5 Average energy score: 2.5

Tasters’ comments: This little brown ball smacks of citrus! Love the chocolate and orange combo, and it looks great with the crushed nut coating. Texture is soft but dense. Is that ginger or chilli? I can’t quite tell but damn, I’m loving the wee hint of spice. (We checked with Bicycle Junction and there are no secret spicy ingredients, but the combo of dried fruit, Dutch cocoa, and quite a lot of zest gives the impression of Christmas spice.) If these balls were a person: An old mate who loves a cigar and whiskey, a reliable friend, or an eccentric health nut who has a secret stash of donuts on the top shelf. Average taste score: 4.5 Average energy score: 4

Commonsense she universe empowerment bar Cacao beans, cacao butter, coconut sugar, coconut oil, blackcurrants, almonds, sunflower seeds, cacao nibs, millet puffs $4.70 per bar Tasters’ comments: Is it biscotti? Is it a chocolate bar? Is it rocky road slice? The berry choc combo was a favourite with one taster, while another thought it was “maybe a bit too one-dimensional.” Big ups to the blackcurrants all round though – “not too much berry so when you do get it, it’s extra delicious.” If these bars were a person: They'd be pretty classy, “deconstruct this snack and you have their favourite dessert”. Or a road worker, “Maybe I’ve got rocky road stuck in my head now?” Average taste score: 4 Average energy score: 4.5

F E AT U R E

Squirrel bliss balls Cashew, date, dried apricot, orange zest, orange blossom water $4.50 per ball Tasters’ comments: Not the prettiest, with a very “healthy” look. Texture is really nice, soft, with all of the bits to chew on. I am LOVING the apricot in this. Huge fan. Would be interested in even more apricot and less date if that were possible. If these balls were a person: They’d be a hot mess. “They may not be in a neat package but that doesn’t mean they’re any less cool. In fact, their unapologetic nature and unencumbered awesomeness is weirdly irresistible, even if they are almost always late (and sometimes show up wearing their shirt backwards).” Average taste score: 4.5 Average energy score: 3

Ceres Organics organic matcha lime pie raw wholefood bar Raw dates (dates, rice flour), coconut, cashews, almonds, matcha powder, ginger powder, lime oil – all organic $3.80 per bar Tasters’ comments: Really lovely aroma. When I sniffed this one, I felt a small thrill of terror at the savoury and spicy that I thought I smelt. Going in for my first nibble, I admit I’m nervous but excited. I bite in, and I am confused! It’s got something I can’t place – it is sweet, but not overly so. Almond and ginger and... mint? Refreshing.

Tom & Luke salted caramel snackaballs Dates, cashew nuts, pea protein, desiccated coconut, raisins, natural caramel flavour, sea salt $2.99 for pack of five Tasters’ comments: These are my kind of bite-size. They’re very small, cute, and surprisingly firm balls. They smell like a caramel latte and a maple bar met up in a bar and got frisky. A bit of a bizarre flavour but I’m really digging it. I can imagine myself having a stash of these at my desk at work and slyly popping one into a yawn.

If these bars were a person: That person with resting bitch face who’s actually the most generous and sweet pushover you ever met. Slash. Your nan, pulling out a packet of gingernuts.

If these balls were a person: They'd be chirpy, happy-go-lucky, bouncy, bubbly, and constantly bringing brownies over to their friends. Their only fault is sometimes they’re a little too sweet and you may get a bit sick of them.

Average taste score: 4 Average energy score: 4.5

Average taste score: 4 Average energy score: 5

L I F E S T Y L E

O N YO U R MARKS Prepare to get muddy on 7 November at the Big Bang Adventure Race in Kāpiti/Horowhenua. Not for the fainthearted, it includes mountain biking, hiking, navigating, and completing a mystery water activity. If you’re after a more classic race there’s the Wairarapa Country Marathon in Masterton on 11 October, Round the Vines (half-marathon and 10-km fun run) in Martinborough on 17 October, or the Remutaka Rail Trail Fun Run and Walk (with 21km, 14km and 7km options) on 14 November.

SEW GO OD

JUST LIKE NEW

CUP OF SUGAR?

In Alert Level 2 masks are mandatory on public transport and encouraged in public places where two metres’ social distance can’t be guaranteed. Disposable masks are sometimes necessary, but reusable options are better for the planet and your pocket. We have a list of capital mask makers who are whipping up sustainable, reusable, stylish face coverings – check them out at capitalmag.co.nz.

Julia Scott from Paraparaumu Beach has launched a sustainable fashion label called The Fabric Warrior. She says her business is “about breathing new life into fabric that already exists”. She takes op-shop finds and other rescued garments, and reworks, repurposes, and refashions them into new designs. Her collection is available to view and shop online.

Only 23.1% of apartment-dwelling Wellingtonians have asked if their neighbours are doing okay, and only 15% have shared a meal, which explains why almost 70% of Inner-city Wellington dwellers don’t feel a sense of community, says Annabel Cave. The third-year design, communications, and marketing student is working with the Inner-City Residents Association on the #wellynextdoor campaign (launched last month) to change this and make Wellington’s “vertical communities” feel more connected.

www.bicyclejunction.co.nz

Len Lye Rainbow Dance, 1936 film still from the exhibition The Absolute Truth of the Happiness Acid 6 Jun – 1 Nov 2020

new perspective. new plymouth. Aotearoa New Zealand’s contemporary art museum, and the global home of Len Lye. Exhibitions | Events | Cinema | Shop | Café

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre New Plymouth | Aotearoa New Zealand govettbrewster.com

A Festival for Aotearoa 5 - 15 November

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B U G

M E

Kawakawa looper moth BY M E LO DY T H O M A S

Name: Kawakawa looper moth Māori name: Tāwhana (Name for the looper moth family) Scientific name: Cleora scriptaria Status: Endemic, not threatened Description: The appearance of the kawakawa looper moth is super variable, with a wingspan between 20mm and 55mm wide, and wing colouration differing from moth to moth but most commonly a mottled yellow/brown. Both male and female have spots in the middle of their wings: these too can vary in colour, either black, white or cream, and at times apparently absent. Habitat: Kawakawa looper moths are widespread and common, and even if you haven’t explicitly identified one, you’ll have seen the handiwork of their caterpillars on the leaves of their favoured host plant, the kawakawa. Look/listen: Because their appearance can be so variable, identifying a

kawakawa looper moth isn’t too straightforward. There are other moths in New Zealand which are strikingly similar to this looper: large and small umber moths which also have mottled brown, scallopedged wings. One clue as to which you’re looking at lies in the spots: if they sit on the very edge of the wing, it’s probably an umber. If the spots are closer to the middle, it’s likelier to be a kawakawa looper. Tell me a story: Kawakawa is considered to be one of the most potent medicines in rongoā, or traditional Māori medicine, and is used for treating everything from toothache and headache to eczema, rashes, and stings. A couple of the leaves steeped in water also make a wonderful, bracing tea (hot tip: take a thermos of hot water on short bush walks and stop for tea when you find your leaves!). Do ask around or check online for the recommended practices before harvesting kawakawa, including saying a karakia of thanks.

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E D I B L E S

COME A CROPPER International researchers hope to help domestic food crops adapt to climate change by using their wild relatives to add resilience. Sixty unique varieties of wheat were exposed to a battery of harsh tests, including fungal diseases, drought, and high temperatures. The wild-relative-derived varieties of wheat proved much more robust. However, they were the least suitable for pasta making. Filippo Bassi, a scientist leading the durum wheat breeding project at the International Center for Agricultural Research, says, “That's a disappointment, but not a deal breaker.”

BIRTHDAY SPECIAL

BAKING AND EGG

GO GO GO

Local firm, Burger Fuel has reached its 25th birthday. It opened it’s first gourmet burger outlet in Auckland in 1995. It’s been a tumultuous journey, and the company now has 88 locations across six countries, with 54 in New Zealand. To celebrate they have created a special edition burger, Roundhouse Ram, which will be on sale during October.

Remember those pink-wafer biscuits? “I think they’re only available in Griffin’s Sampler boxes,” says Giselle Clarkson, who inspected them for her “Biscuits and Slices of New Zealand” illustration, published in children’s compendium Annual 2 before becoming a poster and teatowel. Giselle has just illustrated Gecko Press’s first-ever children’s cookbook, Egg and Spoon, out in November. “I was salivating while drawing!” says Giselle, who recently moved from Wellington to Greytown.

Deep. Fried. Ice. Cream. Yep, you can get it at Mr Go’s. Exclusively 1–11 October, the Asian fusion eatery is offering a deepfried ice cream ball, made with Earl Grey tea and mānuka honey ice cream, shortbread crumb, and black doris plum sauce. Then for the period 12–31 October they’re going savoury with their “Pao Bao” – that’s Kung Pao chicken in a house made steamed bao.

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E D I B L E S

SOIL TOIL A new book edited by Remutaka farmers Jessica Hutchings (Ngāi Tahu, Ngāti Huirapa, Gujarati) and Jo Smith (Kāi Tahu, Kāti Māmoe, Waitaha) looks at Māori relationships with soil and the connections between soil and food security. Te Mahi Oneone Hua Parakore: A Māori Soil Sovereignty and Wellbeing Handbook (Freerange Press) is a collection of essays, profiles and recipes, and draws on the hua parakore Māori organics framework. Hua parakore, meaning “pure product”, is a kaupapa Māori system for producing organic food under the tikanga of mahinga kai.

TOP BOTTLE

ICE COLD

BUTTER NUTTERS

The recommended daily water intake ranges from 2 to 3.7 litres per day depending on whom you ask. Horticulturalist/industrial designer Nick Holder and structural engineer/fashion student Nico Tognazzo have designed their first product, the waterboy bottle strap. It’s a bit like a front pack for your water. It’s made of nylon webbing and plastic buckles, chosen for durability and strength, and fits most bottles. hydrology.earth

We can take pursuing our zero-waste goals to the next level now that organic loose frozen fruits and vegetables are available in Wellington. Commonsense Organics on Tory St has packaging-free bulk bins of frozen fruit and veg (they tell us mixed berries, diced mango, and peas are the most popular). BYO bag or container and take a little or a lot.

Peanut butter producers Fix and Fogg (Cap #8) have won the Nut, Seed and Confectionery Butters gold award at the 2020 Specialty Food Association Awards for their Everything Butter. The international competition involves a blind tasting with around 40 food professionals including chefs, culinary instructors, recipe developers, food journalists, and specialty food buyers.

F E AT U R E

Spice girls BY F R A N C E S CA E M M S

hen Keryn Kalyan walks through the door she can tell immediately what her mum Shobha’s cooked for dinner. “For me the garam masala is the meat smell, and if it’s coriander I think ‘Oh we’re having vegetarian’.” It was the same for Shobha, who remembers as a pre-schooler knowing the smell of cumin seeds meant fish and cardamom meant it was a special time of the year. “When it was Diwali time, my mum would make Ghughra, little pasties with semolina and cardamom inside, and I could smell the aroma of the cardamom from up the street. She roasted the semolina and left it to cool and I could smell it on my way home,” she says. A century ago Shobha’s grandparents migrated from India and settled in Otorohanga. “They had quite a few children, five sisters and three brothers. My grandparents both passed away quite young and the children ended up all going their own way.” Shobha explains that her mum, Mary, couldn’t find a suitable husband in New Zealand, so saved up and went to Fiji in the hope of meeting someone. She was introduced to Ratilal. They liked each other but there were a couple of issues, “He couldn’t speak English and she couldn’t speak Gujarati. And they were both very poor.” Ratilal’s family didn’t support the match, so he told them that he was going off to play a game of soccer, but instead went to the airport and eloped with Mary to New Zealand. The couple settled in Lower Hutt and stayed there for the rest of their lives. “They had an amazing marriage. They taught each other how to speak their lingos. They didn’t have any money but they were very happy.” They were both excellent cooks, says Shobha. Mary had been taught traditional Gujarati methods by her mother. Ratilal had been brought up with authentic Gujarati cooking too, and would sometime contact his sisters in India to get a recipe. Shobha learned from watching her mother cook, and passed this learning on to her three daughters, of whom Keryn is the youngest. “We often ate authentic Gujarati food, but we also

broadened our skills and introduced the girls to a whole range of foods from different cultures. Their palates are now well seasoned! Although they all have their own unique cooking styles, it’s so special for me to see that they’ve carried on their Gujarati cooking skills just the way I taught them, using all five senses.” Shobha and Keryn passed the recipes on again this year with the release of their self-published Gujarati recipe book Pass It On. “This is the first time our treasured recipes have been written down.” The mother-daughter duo has been shortlisted for Best Cookbook in the PANZ Book Design Awards 2020 (winners will be announced in October). They’re also up for Best Cover, for their bright pink image showing Shobha’s hand passing spices into Keryn’s. Shobha makes her own spice grinds and pastes. Instructions for them are included in Pass It On, and they are used in most of the recipes in the book. One of the signature spice mixes is the family’s garam masala, a blend of roasted and ground spices mostly used for meat and poultry dishes. They highly recommend making your own spice mixes, rather than grabbing a packet off the shelf. Not only will the spice blends enhance the depth and flavour of your dishes, but making them at home will leave your house perfumed with exotic aromas. “Each individual spice has its own flavour and adds its own personality to a dish. It’s easy to adjust the recipes to suit your taste by making them sweeter or more peppery.” For this issue, Shobha and Keryn have created a special masala. It’s similar to a traditional garam masala, but warmer with slightly sweeter notes thanks to the addition of nutmeg, and extra cinnamon and cloves. Keryn’s already used it to make chicken curry (recipe available at capitalmag.co.nz). “It's tested and we think it's pretty delicious!” This mix can be used in a range of meat and vegetarian dishes. Store spice mixes in an airtight container or jar in a dark cupboard. They’ll last for months (if you don’t use them up first.)

Capital masala Cover each circle with the spice to create your masala mix. The circle should be completely filled and level (ish). 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Green cardamom seeds

Sift the coriander and cumin seeds individually and discard any sticks, stones or anything foreign. Preheat the oven to 150°C. Place all the ingredients on an oven tray. Slow roast for 20 minutes or until aromatic and slightly darker in colour, stirring every 10 minutes. Place the tray on a wire rack to completely cool. Grind the spices to a fine powder using a spice or coffee grinder, and store in an airtight container in a dark cupboard. Makes: ⅔ cup.

2 tbsp

6 3

4 5

Cumin seeds

Cloves

2 tbsp

1 tbsp

6 star anise

3 cinnamon quills 1

Black peppercorns 1 tbsp

Coriander seeds 2 tbsp

nutmeg ½ tsp

L I Q U I D

B R I E F S

THREE WAY L’affare is teaming up with mixologist Ray Leota to present Cocktails Three Ways With Ray. Hosted at their College St cafe and roastery, guests will learn how to make three coffeeinspired cocktails. “This isn’t espresso martinis with Karen on Courtenay Place on a Friday, but a chance to eat some tasty snacks, drink some tasty drinks and learn from one of New Zealand’s most entertaining and creative bartenders,” says L’affare’s Olly Lawrence. There are two seatings on 16 and 30 October. Bookings (via visawoap.com) are essential.

ON TOAST

WITH ABANDON

FORMERLY KNOWN AS

Guy McMaster’s first foray into good wine was buying a very expensive case of chardonnay. “The aim was to watch it age gracefully over a number of years and reap the rewards of faithful cellaring.” Three days later, after a very raucous flat party, “I was back to square one.” Fast forward a few years, Guy is Palliser Estate’s Chief Winemaker and Viticulturist. He’s looking forward to teaming up with Egmont St Eatery (Cap #63) for Toast Martinborough (15 November) and pairing “delicious wines with great food.”

Lower Hutt’s Abandoned Brewery is on a roll. Not only did they get four placings in our Beer Necessities beer tasting (page 48), they also beat out 835 entries to receive a Good Design Award in the Communication Design Branding and Identity category. The brand’s scribbly designs are white, black, red, and hand-drawn. “It was always the intention to create a brand that was gutsy and expressive,” says designer Aaron McKirdy. They’ve just opened their cellar door so go grab a few brews.

Husk. It’s now called Choice Bros, the same name as the in-house brewery (see Beer Necessities page 48) that’s always been there. “Don’t worry, we’ve still got the same beers, same food and same staff that you love – but now with more choice,” says brewer Manaia Hunt. Their digs have had a facelift also. A choice new mural by Wellington artist Gina Kiel (Cap #47) has replaced the old Husk signage.

Who will be crowned the ultimate Eat Fighter champion? urger vs Pizza. It is a scrimmage that has B lasted through the ages. Since the mid-90s, BurgerFuel has fought valiantly for a share of

New Zealand stomachs against a demonic pizza rival and fellow Kiwi brand. BurgerFuel decided it was time to settle this dispute once and for all and have challenged their round flatbread nemesis, Hell Pizza, to a battle, Eat Fighter style. This is the ultimate tussle for your tummies. Putting forward their fiercest competitor, the Roundhouse Ram burger is going for the takedown with classic New Zealand ingredients - a ground and pound of tender braised Oamaru lamb shoulder, a fresh jab of sweet mint sauce, body blows of sautéed onions and smashed crumbed pea bites. All finished off with a generous serving of fresh sliced tomatoes, batch brewed tomato relish and free range BurgerFuel Aioli.

Roundhouse Ram is a challenger like no other, but won’t be in the fight for long, so head in-store or online at burgerfuel.com/order from October 6th to try this knockout limited-edition special. Check out the opponent fighting in the red corner at hellpizza.com

Celebrating 25 years of BurgerFuel BurgerFuel is turning 25 years young in October, celebrating their 100% Kiwi heritage, and reflecting on years of side stepping the mainstream with a rebel spirited brand identity that is more than just burgers. Always full throttle by nature and serving up pure fuel in an environment that’s fun, fast and loud. Since ‘95. Head to burgerfuel.com/world-of-burgerfuel to learn more and join in the fun, as they look back on the good times and share snippets of their epic journey.

BURGERFUEL.COM

B Y

T H E

B O O K

NA M E CALLING Waikanae couple Virginia Innes-Jones and Darin Dance, who abandoned nine-to-five jobs for creative lives, have co-written a breezy novel Scorpions in Stilettos, completing their trilogy about boarding-school friends. Why adopt pseudonyms (Hinemura Ellison and Ted Hughes)? “We set our first, satirical novel in a government department while still government employees,” Virginia says, “and Wellington’s small...”. The pseudonyms stuck. Meanwhile the author of Tio Tiamu, about a shunned giant, insists on the pseudonym “Kurahau”. Tio Tiamu (Huia) won the te reo Māori award at the NZ Book Awards for Children and Young Adults.

VIDA FEVER

CRIME TIME

MOLE’S ROLE

Kāpiti Coast book designer Vida Kelly (Cap#63) – who also paints Quentin Blake’s illustrations in watercolours – is looking forward to the PANZ Book Design Awards (22 October). She’s a triple finalist in best children’s book for designing The Gobbledegook Book (Gecko) by Joy Cowley (illustrated by Greytown’s Giselle Clarkson); designing Mophead (AUP), written/illustrated by Selina Tusitala Marsh; and co-designing Wildlife of Aotearoa (Penguin Random House), written/ illustrated by Gavin Bishop. She’s also up for best cover for Mophead.

At 91, one-name writer Renée is still trying new things. Her debut crime novel, The Wild Card (Cuba Press), is a Best Novel finalist in the Ngaio Marsh Awards, which will celebrate New Zealand crime-writing on 31 October. The book depicts 30-something Ruby, who was left in a kete at a children’s home as a baby, investigating a fellow orphan’s fate.

The brilliant, sometimes bizarre avant-garde theatre group Red Mole performed in Wellington and then internationally from 1974 to 1989. It had a ripple effect on theatre practice. An actor, writer, and lighting technician for Red Mole, prodigious author Martin Edmond has written Bus Stops to the Moon: Red Mole 1974–1980 (Otago University Press, out 12 October). It’s part memoir, part cultural history. “At one point, we took over Carmen Rupe’s Wellington strip club and turned it into something resembling the 1920s Weimar Cabaret,” Martin says.

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R E V E R S E

Re-verse I N T R O D U C E D BY C L A I R E O R C H A R D

The poet: Born Iris Wilkinson in Cape Town, South Africa, Robin Hyde (1906–1939) emigrated with her family to Wellington at only a month old. She attended Wellington Girls’ College and briefly studied at what is now Victoria University, going on to become a journalist, poet, and novelist. She is regarded as one of New Zealand’s finest writers of the inter-war era.

T H E M I R A C L E O F A B U N DA N C E But in the dream, We had come through fear and famine, blood and filth, And were after a long while re-united. Around us the lamp shed its cold blossom-spilth, And we sat in the peasant’s hut benighted. Happy, I rested my head against your knee, And said, ‘I will bear you all the sons you wish.’ There was a platter of blue set down on the hearth, A meal of bread and little broken fish.

In brief: Hyde wrote this poem in 1937, during her final year in New Zealand, when she was also working on the final draft of her novel The Godwits Fly. She spent the year moving between rental accommodation and living frugally, saving for her planned travels. Leaving for China in early 1938, she arrived in England later that year. Why read it: I came across this poem the morning after waking from a particularly nerve-wracking dream in which I had one job: to collect a first aid kit. It was urgently required. It was also located on the opposite bank of the river. To get to it I needed to get to the bridge and cross the river. I could only access the bridge via a series of interconnecting tunnels and steep escalators crowded with travellers all going insistently in the opposite direction. You get the picture. Sleep researchers are always looking into our sleep patterns and it turns out a lot of us are having more vivid dreams lately. Apparently, living with a global pandemic affects us even when we’re sleeping. Olivia Laing, author of Funny Weather: Art in an Emergency, argues art exists “to convey empathy and tenderness indirectly from person to person” and right now it feels like we need all the empathy and tenderness we can come by. Hyde’s poem reaches off the page, offering a dream of better times to come.

By Robin Hyde, published in Young Knowledge: The poems of Robin Hyde, edited and introduced by Michele Leggott (Auckland University Press, 2003.)

Why I like it: For the way my heart lifts when I read “We had come through fear and famine, blood and filth / and were after a long time re-united”. Despite the couple’s benighted state there is lamplight, and the speaker is moved by sheer happiness to make their fulsome offer of “all the sons you wish.” There is contentment in their observing “a platter of blue set down on the hearth, / A meal of bread and little broken fish”, a reference to the miracle of the loaves and fishes that both connects us back to the title of the poem and completes the speaker’s dream of a shift from deprivation to abundance. Shelter, sustenance, and to be able to be with those we love are surely what we all desire and deserve.

Best quotable line: “Around us the lamp shed its cold blossom spilth” for the feeling of secluded intimacy it imparts, and for the extra flourish Hyde’s choice of the archaic “spilth” (the act or an instance of spilling) gives the line. Read more like this: Poet and editor Michele Leggott’s collection of Hyde’s poetry is wonderful, but if digital access is easier than print right now try nzepc.auckland. ac.nz/authors/hyde/ for links to more of Hyde’s works. If it’s another dream poem you’re after, then seek out Pablo Neruda’s Cat’s Dream; it’s a delight.

Hello darkness

changes to outdoor lighting in the designated Dark Sky Management Area, which encompasses South Wairarapa and Carterton districts. The goal is to minimise future light pollution of the night sky. When a new light goes up, it must comply with dark sky conscious regulations. That means ensuring outdoor lighting is shielded downwards and uses warmer-hued 3000K bulbs rather than 4000K white/blue bulbs. This will be a gradual change, says Bateman. “We are aiming to educate rather than nag, but once current lights expire or need changing, then we want people to think about making a better choice for the night sky.” The New Zealand Transport Agency has committed to replacing its Wairarapa highway lighting with dark-skyreservecompliant lighting of no more than 3,000 Kelvin strength, which is the International Dark Sky Association’s upper limit for public lighting. The main SH2 and SH53 lights are already done, and some smaller settlements like Gladstone, Pirinoa, and Ngawi will be upgraded over time. This is a major landmark on the path to becoming a certified International Dark Sky Reserve. But, “The work doesn’t stop,” says Bateman. She and the society will be working alongside the community to “ensure that the reserve becomes even darker over time.”

my old friend BY A N N I E K E I G

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY M A R K G E E

Becky Bateman, a founding member of the Wairarapa Dark Sky Society, reached a new milestone in her quest to make the Wairarapa a certified International Dark Sky Reserve. Her latest victory? Streetlights. Dark Sky Reserves protect nocturnal functions (such as breeding, hunting, and migrating) in ecosystems, and the beauty of the stars by combating light pollution. Reserves each consist of a core area that meets minimum criteria for sky quality and natural darkness, and a peripheral area that supports dark sky preservation. Last month, the Carterton and South Wairarapa Districts Councils unanimously agreed to support Bateman’s proposed

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Pier pressure It took decades for Wellington’s waterfront to be transformed from the fenced-off industrial area Wellington City Council Member Nicola Young remembers from her childhood to the promenade now so loved. The sheltered inner harbour has become a nautical playground, plied by kayakers, dragon boaters, rowers, yachties – and the cross-harbour ferries. Now this is all at risk she says.

he proposal to berth KiwiRail’s new megasized rail ferries in downtown Wellington has been greeted with dismay by local authorities, and residents are appalled. Cook Strait’s ferry services are a critical part of New Zealand’s transport network, connecting the North and South islands; they’re effectively part of State Highway 1. The roll-on/roll-off ferry service commenced in 1962 when the Aramoana, operated by the Railways Department, made its maiden voyage. Its successor KiwiRail now runs the Kaitaki (its largest ferry), Kaiarahi, and Aratere, shifting 820,000 passengers and 250,000 cars a year. A smaller competing company, the privately-owned Strait Shipping, runs the Bluebridge ferries Straitsman and Strait Feronia. KiwiRail proposes replacing its three ferries with two mega-sized rail ferries, comparable in gross tonnage (weight and volume) to a medium-sized aircraft carrier – or the Titanic. The new rail ferries would be 40 metres longer and five metres wider than the Kaitaki and more than double its gross tonnage of 22,365. They would come into service in four to five years. I don’t have any issues with KiwiRail upgrading its ferries, but I’m struggling to understand why KiwiRail is so determined to move its terminal and industrial operation into the heart of our city in the face of increasingly determined opposition. At present KiwiRail’s ferries

operate from Kaiwharawhara, while the smaller Bluebridge ferries operate from King’s Wharf. Two years ago, the Future Ports Forum was set up to find the best location for a new multi-user ferry terminal, with representatives from Centreport, the New Zealand Transport Agency, Greater Wellington Regional Council, Wellington City Council, KiwiRail, and Strait Shipping. Kaiwharawhara was selected as the preferred location for a multi-user terminal but KiwiRail disagreed, citing Kaiwharawhara’s high seismic risk as it lies directly on the WellingtonHutt Fault. The reality though is that the whole of downtown Wellington is a seismic risk, just like Tokyo, and engineers can design accordingly. We’re all familiar with Wellington’s seismic risk and Centreport has been working on its resilience issues. All of its Wellington land is particularly vulnerable to a major quake (as we saw from the 2016 Kaikōura quake), thanks to the two major fault lines: the WellingtonHutt Valley fault and the Aotea fault under the harbour. Research predicts there’s a five percent chance of a major rupture of the WellingtonHutt fault in the next 50 years. KiwiRail wants a standalone terminal in downtown Wellington at King’s Wharf (close to the existing Bluebridge terminal) because it’s just across the road from the railway, and has a lower seismic risk. KiwiRail wants Bluebridge to have its own terminal at Kaiwharawhara, where

F E AT U R E

KiwiRail now operates. Two terminals? That’s like having two airports. There would be three sailings per ferry every day; that’s six arrivals and six departures. Every arriving rail ferry would deliver 6–7km of traffic (170 cars and 62 trucks) closer to the city, requiring major road works and greatly increasing traffic. Yet most of the 250,000 cars and 820,000 passengers using the ferries would just be heading straight to State Highway 1, with no need to drive through the capital’s Central Business District. Trains would also run across Waterloo Quay (42 wagons per sailing), so “grade separation” would be required; in simple English that’s a flyover rising over the railway adjacent to the Sky Stadium. You will recall Wellingtonians have been more than vocal about their dislike of flyovers. It’s not just about traffic. We don’t want our central city waterfront turned into an industrial estate with a huge carpark, railyard, and 220m-long, eight-storey-high ferries that will be seen from afar. King’s Wharf would have to be extended with a 200m finger wharf together with a much larger terminal, five-storey link-spans, ramps, and gangways. KiwiRail has already purchased longer wagons, which require the marshalling yards to have much larger turning circles in Wellington (and throughout New Zealand). Then there’s the manoeuvring on the water. The mega ferries’ turning circles would be like having aircraft carriers doing doughnuts in the inner harbour – right in front of Te Papa, Chaffers Marina, and waterfront apartments. Just think of the wash. Marine simulation shows that problems like engine failure could be catastrophic, threatening the safety of other boats, wharves, marinas, and adjacent buildings. The Council is trying to make the city more people-friendly, and our waterfront is a defining feature of Wellington and the envy of other cities. It should continue to be developed and opened up, rather than being shut off and industrialised.

Auckland, like many other cities, is integrating its waterfront into liveable community spaces, so why would we lock ours up for at least the next 50 years? Why go backwards? It’s unacceptable KiwiRail is trying to foist these ships onto Wellington’s precious inner harbour, ignoring the united voice of Centreport, the regional and city councils, and the Transport Authority, and trying to dictate terms to its rival Bluebridge. It’s even threatening to use the Public Works Act to acquire the King’s Wharf site from Centreport; that’s unprecedented, one public authority using the Act to take land from another public authority. It’s not KiwiRail’s role to decide the location of such major infrastructure on our waterfront, with such longlasting effects on our city’s urban design. Let’s talk about the expense. The government allocated $382.5 million to towards the new Interisland ferries “to support a resilient and reliable rail freight system” in its Budget 2020, but that won’t go far with approximately $.05–1Billion required to construct new terminal facilities in Wellington and Picton. The entire cost of the project remains unknown but most of the work will have to be replicated in Picton. KiwiRail’s plans for Picton include a new terminal, a 280-metre wharf, jetties, and seawalls, with a road bridge over the rail line. Fortunately, KiwiRail is a state-owned enterprise. Its colossal spending proposals will need approval (and funding) from the Government, and it’s already been told to continue working with the Future Ports Forum to find an acceptable solution. And it will need the support of its shareholding Minister, Grant Robertson, who just happens to be Wellington Central’s Member of Parliament. Let’s hope Grant is listening. Please KiwiRail, leave our treasured waterfront and inner harbour alone. Once we lose our inner harbour and waterfront, we’ll never get it back.

Inspiring ideas to embrace a new season.

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H O M E

A taste of Greece P H OTO G R A P H Y BY V I C TO R I A B I R K I N S H AW

Foodie Adie McClelland has made a home that reminds her of a favourite place. She talks to Sarah Catherall.

die McClellandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite room in her house is her kitchen, where she spends many hours whipping up meals for family and friends, or teaching her popular culinary classes. The Wellington cook and food writer has published two cookbooks: The Black Dog Cottage Cookbook, and The Second Black Dog Cottage Cookbook, which combines her Canterbury farming background, her experiences in the Greek islands, and a few tricks that she teaches in the classes she holds at her Wadestown home and Hawke's Bay bach. In her Wadestown kitchen, the cupboards are painted the blue widely found in houses on the Greek island of Hydra, where Adie and her husband, Matthew, a barrister, try to spend weeks each year. The Mediterranean has a special place in Adieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart: she got her first cooking job on yachts there more than three decades ago, and it is where she found her passion for Mediterranean produce and foods.

H O M E

The couple bought their Wadestown house thirty-odd years ago without seeing it, while they were living in Hong Kong. They moved back in 1987 when Matthew got a legal job in Wellington. Adie recalls: “When we arrived, I saw the house and literally burst into tears.’’ It was a dark, one-storey cottage with a lean-to kitchen and just two bedrooms. The couple did their own renovations, banging some walls down, lifting the ceiling and building the kitchen and a butler’s pantry. The kitchen is smaller than a typical family kitchen, but Adie says it is the perfect size for her, as she had got so used to small galley kitchens in the yachts she worked on. She likes what she describes as “a peasantry kitchen.’’ Hers is the opposite of minimalistic, full of hanging pots and fresh tomatoes and tamarillos piled on mismatching plates. She laughs: “I’m no good in a big kitchen. I know where everything is here. I’ve got the most basic stove. It only goes from high to low.’’

H O M E

Her kitchen is simple and unpretentious, just like her food style. From her travels through Asia and the Mediterranean, she has amassed and developed recipes which are designed to be easily prepared, served without ceremony, and eaten with joy and good company. During the house renovation, Adie and Matthew discovered a double-sided fireplace behind a wall, and it is now a feature of the open-plan living room. When their family expanded, (their daughter, Maisy, is 27, and their son, Albert, is 25) they brought in Wellington architect Gerald Parsonson to push out the front, reclad the exterior and add another floor. They showed him photographs of their favourite houses in Greece, which was essentially their brief: turn our house into a home that reminds us of our other favourite place. He added an upper storey, and the house was given a fresh new look with a new white plastered exterior. They make the most of living in Wellington, and have entertained many family and friends in their home over the years. Adie likes the fact the kitchen, dining, and living area is one long space, so everyone can easily socialise. “It’s not very big and it’s warm and connected, which makes it a great party house.’’

H O M E

The hub of their home, it is filled with many of the pieces the couple have collected. They’re fans of New Zealand art, with works by Seraphine Pick and Elizabeth Thomson lining the walls. Adie grew up on a Canterbury farm, where she learned to cook. The furniture and rugs scattered throughout the Wadestown home make it feel relaxed and earthy, reflecting that heritage. They brought back pieces of furniture from their six years in Hong Kong. Hundreds of cookbooks and other books fill shelves and are scattered on tables. One of Adie’s favourite pieces is a Greek religious art work, now hanging near the fireplace, which she bought on Hydra after her mother passed away. The couple planted buxus hedges and olive trees out the back, which from the kitchen are a blaze of green in spring. When they are sitting in the terraced garden on summery evenings, the view across the lush garden towards the house reminds them of the Med. Upstairs, the bedrooms are filled with art and bits and pieces they have collected. Maisy’s room is virtually as it was when she moved out, and at the time of publication she was home from Sydney, working remotely because of Covid-19. Adie says, “Albert was back during lockdown too and I did really enjoy cooking for everyone again.’’

H O M E

Adie started running cooking classes in her family kitchen when Maisy was a baby. Before she became a mother, she had a full-time, highintensity job cooking for merchant bankers Fay Richwhite. “I was there from 6am and often there till late, cooking for their functions too.’’ “When I got pregnant, I missed cooking so much and I started doing basic, easy cooking lessons for young mums with kids, who wanted to serve their families lovely food.’’ She called her cooking school The Doris Slater School of Cooking. She says: “I’ve probably taught hundreds and hundreds of people now over the years.’’ Adie lights up when she talks about cooking and food. She gets such delight feeding people, and finds it immensely gratifying. She will soon cook for the charity Sweet Louise, feeding the families of those with incurable breast cancer. “I enjoy cooking for others and it’s my way of helping where I can,’’ she says.

Adie's South Indian fish curry "The beauty of this curry is its simplicity and its lightness. Remember to keep it that way. Sometimes I throw in some pears at the end. Obviously this makes a wonderful vegetable curry, and for that I use peas, green beans, and snow peas, but of course any veg combination you choose will be wonderful. Just remember to keep it simple!" Serves 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6

As a special treat for our food issue, Adie has shared one of her recipes. 3 tbsp vegetable oil and extra for searing fish 2 tsp black mustard seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp ground turmeric 2 medium brown onions, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tbsp finely grated ginger 3 long green chillies, thinly sliced on an angle 12 fresh curry leaves 300ml coconut milk 500ml fish stock 8 tomatoes, peeled and diced 4 x 200g boneless firm white fish fillets, cut into good size chunks Handful chopped coriander leaves

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

To make the sauce, heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and turmeric and stir until they start to pop. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger and cook gently for 5 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the chilli and curry leaves and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk, fish stock, tomatoes, and Âź tsp salt and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, then simmer for about 15 minutes or until thickened. (This sauce can be prepared in advance.) Drizzle oil in a frying pan over medium to high heat. Sear the fish briefly and return to the sauce. To serve: reheat gently until the fish is cooked through. Add chopped coriander.

W E L L Y

A N G E L

What would Deirdre do?

WO R K I N G MAN I work hard and long hours and enjoy it, and incidentally earn well. We live well. None of this has changed over the past decade. My partner complains I should take more time off, but doesn’t make suggestions as to what else we might do. How do I make it clear that this is what I enjoy? We don’t have any dependants. All day long, Woburn

A DV I C E F RO M D E I R D R E TA R R A N T

HOM E WO R K My work is downsizing our office and expects us to work mostly from home. I hate working from home as do many of my co-workers. I have told my boss but it doesn’t seem to make any difference at all. How do we make them see the downside? High Anxiety, Highbury

You are happy, so that is good but you both need to be happy! Maybe make some effort and, as means are not a problem, find a way to take that break together. You choose, maybe a regular theatre outing or weekend walking. Time is precious so use it! It takes two to tango and you don’t want to reflect and regret. Share and don’t risk being selfish.

This is a new world of working and currently there seems to be a lot of positive feedback about working from home. You need to marshall your argument and be clear about what doesn’t work for you and why. Then prepare to be flexible – good luck!

G L A S S HA L F E M P T Y Do you think it possible to help an alcoholic or to help prevent them becoming worse, or do they have to reach their own “bottom” and find their own way out? Enabler in chief, Epuni

TOO MANY K N IC K - K NAC K S My mother-in-law is always buying us gifts for our house. It is generous and kind, but not what I want. How do I tell her? Apartment dweller, Kelburn

There are organisations to help, Alchoholics Anonymous for one, but you are right. The will needs to come from the addicted. Be positive, support any discussion and intention to seek help; but ultimately it is their choice to go on the recovery route and they will need strength and personal purpose to overcome this addiction.

I want to say “be grateful” and I feel this personally as have been there as the one really wanting to give family gifts and worrying that I am getting it wrong! It is hard and all intentions are good but lots of open communication is the key and lots of awareness of what you agree on. Talk, talk, talk, and shop together. Give her clear indications when you would really like something she can give.

If you’ve got a burning question for Deirdre, email angel@capitalmag.co.nz with Capital Angel in the subject line.

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WĀ H I N E

Comfort lines BY M E LO DY T H O M AS

recently ran into a friend I hadn’t seen in a while who, when I asked how she was, told me she was struggling. There was the added pressure at work because of Covid, the kids picking up on their parents’ stress and playing up as a result, and a general, pervasive sense of fatigue. “I shouldn’t complain,” she said, “I know others have it much worse.” A couple of days later it happened again: a different friend opened up about what they were going through, only to erase it all with that same dismissive statement, “I shouldn’t complain. It could be much worse.” I understand why we do it. All around the world, in our own neighbourhoods and on our social media feeds there are people who have lost loved ones, lost their jobs, who are unsafe, are worrying for their immunocompromised children or fighting to save the lives of both strangers and loved ones. And so it follows: “What right do I have to feel anxious, sad, angry, let down, burnt out … when I have so much more than they do?” As often happens, soon after these friends told me they shouldn’t complain, it could be worse, I came across exactly the information I needed to understand it, in the form of Dr Brené Brown’s podcast Unlocking Us. Brené Brown is an author and academic researcher who’s spent two decades studying courage, vulnerability, shame, and empathy. Her TED talks, books, and podcasts are incredibly popular, but I’ve avoided them out of an aversion to cheesy American self-help. Then along came the pandemic and suddenly cheesy self-help was exactly what I needed. Four episodes into Unlocking Us, Brené introduces the concept of Comparative Suffering. It’s completely understandable that, when faced with the suffering of others, we might attempt to put aside our own, she says, but this isn’t how emotion works. When emotions are denied, rather than disappearing, they fester. “And not only do our feelings double down

and grow, they invite shame over for the party.” So having denied yourself the opportunity to feel, you’re now not only scared/sad/anxious, you’re also a terrible person for feeling that way when others have it so much worse than you. And this whole, weird, self-denying dance we do is based on a myth: that empathy is finite. That somehow, by allowing ourselves a moment of loving kindness and understanding, we’re somehow diminishing our stocks, and depriving the people who “really” deserve it. But the truth is that rather than diminishing our reserves, practicing empathy not only begets more empathy, it is an active antidote to shame. Brown describes it like this: Empathy is an “other-focused” emotion; when you’re being truly empathetic, you’re only thinking about yourself as a means of better understanding somebody else’s experience. So you might be looking through the lens of your own experience, but the focus is the other person. Shame, however, is inwardly focused. Deep in the pits of shame, we are unable to think about others except in terms of how they might be judging us. As well as being self-destructive, shame is entirely self-involved, leaving no room for compassion and understanding. Shame kills empathy, but the reverse is also true: shame cannot survive in the presence of empathy. Pain is pain is pain. It doesn’t matter why you’re feeling it, or whether you “should” be feeling it, you are feeling it. Your emotions are legitimate, and if you don’t allow them time to be felt, in an intimate conversation with an close friend, a good cry in the bath, a rage-filled run to the top of a hill, a really long hug, not only will they be stored up in your body until you have no choice but to address them (burnout, illness, exhaustion, relationship issues, anxiety etc), but you drain your stores of empathy. In denying yourself the kindness and compassion you deserve, you become less able to extend that kindness and compassion to others. As my new favourite self-help guru Brené Brown puts it: “We don’t need to rank hurt, anger, pain and fear right now. We need to attend to it. So that it dissipates and we put more empathy in the world.”

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C A L E N D A R

October REUBEN PATERSON: YOU KNOW W HO Page Galleries, until 10 October FURNITURE MEMOIRS

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Chairs, tables, and trees Toi Poneke, until 10 October OBSERVATIONS OF A RURAL NURSE Photography by Sara McIntyre Sarjeant Gallery, Whanganui, until 18 October

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MA RTI FRIEDL A NDER: PORTR A IT S OF THE A RTIST S New Zealand Portrait Gallery, until 8 November HE KĀ HA Works by uku artist Stevei Houkāmau Pātaka Art + Museum, until 8 November WA I: THE WATER PROJECT Pātaka Art + Museum, until 8 November C OSTUMING KATHERINE Costumes created for stage and screen portrayals of Katherine Mansfield Katherine Mansfield House and Garden TERMINA L City Gallery EVERY THING OL D IS NEW AGA IN Celebrating 100 years of the Alexander Turnbull Library New Zealand Portrait Gallery TOIOHO X XV: KI MUA , KI MURI Celebrating Māori Visual Arts

Gothic Cinema at Old St Paul’s 31 October 2020, 7pm Old St Paul’s, 34 Mulgrave St, Wellington Details: facebook.com/oldstpauls

Te Manawa Museum

1 DINE W EL L INGTON Wellington on a Plate Various locations, 1–11 October

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C A L E N D A R

C O CKTA IL WE L LI NG TON Wellington on a Plate Various locations, 1–30 October

2 SHOW ME SHORT S F E ST I VA L 75 short films and three music videos Nation wide and online, 2–22 October BLO OMIN’ RO SÉ Get rosé among the roses with Palliser Estate’s Chief Winemaker Flowers Manuela, 3 and 4 October

6 AST RONOMY ON TA P Toast the stars with a date or mate, or fly solo. Space Place, 8pm

9 WINETOPIA TSB Arena, 9–10 October

10 T HE LO ST L ET T E R OF F IC E Theatre show for children Te Raukura ki Kāpiti – Performing Arts Centre, 10am and 1pm LIG HT S OU T: C A P T U R E T H E DAR K Guided stargazing and astrophotography Wainuiomata Recreation Area, 8–10pm

11 GO N U T S F OR D ONU T S ! Eight different donuts from a range of cultures Havana Bar, 11, 18 and 25 October

12 BURGE R WE L L ING TON Wellington on a Plate Various locations, 12–30 October

15 N EGIN DASTGHE I B : R I SI NG Page Galleries, until 7 November

16 C O C K TA IL S THREE WAYS W ITH R AY Stir, shake, mix, sip, and even eat your cocktail L’affare, 16 and 30 October, bookings essential

November 1 MAGICA L MYSTERY DR AW ING TOUR Sign up via Wellington Museum for the first clue

17 G E NE R A L EL ECTION

C I N E M A I TA L IA N O Italian film festival Empire Cinema, 5–18 November

24 SPL ASH Annual showcase of New Zealand watercolourists New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts, 24 October – 8 November

25 DI WA LI FIREWORKS Festival of lights with food, performances, and fireworks TSB Arena and Shed 6, 1.30–9pm

RESET Taranaki Arts Festival Various locations and events in Taranaki, 5–15 November

7 KĀ PITI A RT S TR A IL Kāpiti Coast, 7–8 and 14–15 November 1 0 0 DAYS: A JOURNEY Mahara Gallery, Waikanae

26 L A B OUR DAY

W E LLI NGTON HERITAGE W EEK Various events and locations, 26 October – 1 November

CHRISTMAS C OMEDY GAL A Opera House, 7.30pm

12 SO CIA L CLOTHING SWAP

29 T R A DE D NOT FA DED Exhibition of work by Paora Tiatoa Ora Gallery SLE E PI NG BEAUT Y Performed by the Royal New Zealand Ballet Opera House, 29 October – 7 November

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15 TOAST MA RTINB OROUGH

18 W EL L INGTON JA ZZ FESTI VAL Various events, 18–22 November

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W E LLI NGTON TAT TO O C ONV ENTION Dominion Museum Building, 31 October – 1 November

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P U Z Z L E D

Penne for your thoughts This month we get delicious with the crossword.

6 8 9

11 12 13

14 15 16

17 19

20 22

21 23

Crossword an swe rs from issue #72 Across 4. hāngī 5. wharepaku 6. taonga 9. pounamu 10. kea 11. mahi 12. whare 13. manu 17. te whanganui a tara 18. kia kaha 19. whenua 22. hōhā 24. kikorangi

Down 1. ka pai 2. tāne 3. pīwakawaka 7. awa 8. tamariki 11. moana 14. papatūānuku 15. taihoa 16. tahi 20. wāhine 21. puku 23. hui

Across

Down

1. Abalone (4) 5. Vietnamese soup (3) 6. To work dough (5) 7. Yeast-based spread (7) 9. Raw fish (7) 11. Eastern European soup (7) 13. Veined Italian cheese (10) 15. Flash-fry (4) 16. Levantine egg plant dip (4,7) 18. Layered dessert (6) 19. Spicy Indian curry (8) 21. Type of Chinese dumpling (6) 22. Type of chilli pepper (8) 24. Escargot (6) 25. Scottish savoury pudding (6)

2. East African staple (5) 3. Native NZ herb (8) 4. Effervescent (5) 5. Groundnut (6) 8. Postprandial somnolence (4,4) 10. Sooty shearwater (6,4) 12. Baste (4) 14. Mountain Oyster (8) 15. To soak tea (5) 17. Southern African dried meat (7) 20. Cuban cocktail (6) 23. Thin gravy (3)

Answers will be published in the next issue

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