Lonely Planet Budapest lommekjent by Cappelen Damm AS

lommekjent

BUDAPEST

HØYDEPUNKTER • LOKALTIPS • HELT ENKELT

Steve Fallon Oversatt av Lotte Holmboe

budapest_book.indb 1

29.01.16 12.42

Denne guiden inneholder Need to Know 17

Your Daily Budget

Language Hungarian (Magyar)



Meal at self-service restaurant 1500Ft



Three-day transport pass 4150Ft

Two-course meal with drink 3500–7500Ft Cocktail from 1300Ft

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Spa ticket adult/child 5300/3100Ft



Cover at a popular club 2000–3500Ft

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Time Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour) Plugs & Adaptors Plugs have two round pins; electrical current is 230v/50hz. Tipping Hungarians are very tip-conscious and nearly everyone in Budapest will routinely hand gratuities to waiters, hairdressers and taxi drivers.

For Buda (Széll Kálmán tér), take the Airport Shuttle Minibusz, or Bus 200E to KőbányaKispest metro station, then M3 metro to Deák tér and M2 to Széll Kálmán tér.

Top end more than 30,000Ft Dinner for two with wine from 12,500Ft

Visas Generally not required for stays up to 90 days. Money ATMs are everywhere. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels, restaurants and shops. Mobile Phones Most North American phones don’t work here. Consider buying a rechargeable SIM card if your phone is not locked.

Budapest has a safe, efficient and inexpensive public-transport system run by BKK (Budapesti Közlekedési Központ, Centre for Budapest Transport; %1-258 4636; www. bkk.hu). Five types of transport are in general use, but the most useful for travellers are the metro trains on four numbered and colourcoded city lines, blue buses and yellow trams. The basic fare for all forms of transport is 350Ft (3000Ft for a block of 10). There’s a seven-day pass for 4950Ft.

A From Ferenc Liszt International Airport For Pest (Deák tér), take the Airport Shuttle Minibusz, or Bus 200E to Kőbánya-Kispest metro station, then M3 metro to Deák tér.

Midrange 15,000–30,000Ft  Single/double room from 7000/9500Ft  

Getting Around

Most people arrive in Budapest by air, but you can also get here from dozens of European cities by bus and train and from Vienna by Danube hydrofoil.

Budget less than 15,000Ft Dorm bed 2800–6000Ft



For more information, see Survival Guide (p144)

Currency Forint (Ft); some hotels quote in euros (€)

L From Keleti, Nyugati & Déli Train Stations For Pest (Deák tér), take the M2 metro from Keleti pályaudvar and Déli pályaudvar, or the M3 metro from Nyugati pályaudvar.



Useful Websites

For Buda (Széll Kálmán tér), take the M2 metro to Keleti pályaudvar and Déli pályaudvar, or the M3 metro from Nyugati pályaudvar then M3 metro to Széll Kálmán tér.

Xpat Loop (www.xpatloop.com) Popular English-language site, with local news, interviews, features and listings. Caboodle (www.caboodle.hu) Daily news, features, events and irreverent comment.



Two months before Book your accommodation if travelling in the high season. Take a look at the ‘what’s on’ and English-language media websites.

Hungarian # National E Museum

# E

Gellért Baths

Prices for the baths are: weekdays/weekends with locker 4900/5100Ft, or 5300/5500Ft for a cabin.

Síp

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Telep (www.facebook.com/TelepGaleria; VII Madách Imre út 8; hnoon-2am Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat; W; mM1/2/3 Deák Ferenc tér), an exhibition space and art gal-

lery, wallpapered with stickers and hosting nightly live music or DJs. If the weather’s warm, the street will be filled with folk hanging out on the pavement with a beer.

7 Head to a Club If you’re ready to ramp things up a bit, head back towards Gozsdu udvar, where the basement club at GMK

(Gozsdu Manó Klub; www.gozsdumano.hu; cnr Madách Imre út & Gozsdu udvar; h4pm2am Mon-Wed & Sun, to 5am Thu-Sat; W; mM1/2/3 Deák Ferenc tér) has an excel-

lent sound system and a good reputation for quality DJs and live music.

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6 Listen to Some Live Music Further south on Madách Imre út is

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if feeling peckish. Nearby Gozsdu udvar heaves at night with locals and tourists alike.

ERZSÉBETVÁROS

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200 m 0.1 miles

Alkotás

Best Eating 129

128 Best Eating Klassz Unusually for a wine restaurant, both the vintages and the food are top class. (p102)

Best Eating The dining scene in Budapest has undergone a sea change in recent years. Hungarian food has lightened up, oﬀering the same wonderfully earthy and spicy tastes but in less caloric dishes. A number of vegetarian (or partly meatless) restaurants have opened, and the choice of eateries with cuisines other than Magyar is greater than ever before. Hungarian Cuisine You’re likely familiar with some of the most common Hungarian dishes. Gulyás (goulash) is Hungary’s signature dish, though here it’s more like a soup than a stew and made with beef, onions and tomatoes. Paprika-infused pörkölt is closer to what we would call goulash. Halászlé is a highly recommended fish soup made from poached freshwater fish, tomatoes, green peppers and paprika. Savanyúság (literally ‘sourness’) is anything from mildly sour-sweet cucumbers to almost acidic sauerkraut eaten with a main course. A favourite dessert is palincsinta, a crêpe filled with jam, sweet cheese or chocolate sauce.

MICHELLE GRANT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bars 11am to midnight Sunday to Thursday, to between 2am and 4am Friday and Saturday.

5 Stroll a Nightlife Street Just across the road, Madách Imre út is usually packed. Numerous bars line the pedestrian alley, but locals

favour 400 Bar (www.400bar.hu; VII Kazinczy utca 52; h11am-2am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat; W; mM1/2/3 Deák Ferenc tér), where you can grab a bite to eat

Banks 7.45am to 5pm or 6pm Monday, to 4pm or 5pm Tuesday to Thursday, to 4pm Friday.

the corner you’ll find a purple-andgold ground-floor bar and live music in the small downstairs venue. In the fairy-lit garden, take a seat in the boat and enjoy a drink adrift in a sea of chattering locals.

Business Hours

W; mM1/2/3 Deák Ferenc tér) just around

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 Reputable operators include City Taxi, Fő Taxi, Rádió Taxi and Taxi 4.

Tickets & Passes

Standard business hours are as follows, unless specified in the review:

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 From 11.30pm to just after 4am a network of 40 night buses (three

Bus

y Best for...reliable transport around the clock.

Southern Pest (p108) Traditionally working class, this is an area to wander, poking your nose into courtyards and small, often traditional, shops. E Top Sights Hungarian National Museum

y�Top Tips  Most restaurants are open from 10am or 11am to 11pm or midnight.  Arrive by 9pm or 10pm (at the latest) to ensure being seated and served.  It is advisable to book tables at midrange to top-end restaurants, especially at the weekend.

Best Haute Cuisine Borkonyha The ‘Wine Kitchen’ is currently our favourite in Pest, Michelin accolades notwithstanding. (p81) Csalogány 26 Haute cuisine à la hongroise in the heart of Buda. (p31)

Kisbuda Gyöngye Finde-siècle atmosphere in an antique-cluttered Óbuda eatery. (p55) Múzeum Going strong into its second century, this place combines excellent service and top-notch cooking. (p116)

Best Local Kádár Lunch-only étkezde on an atmospheric square. (p102) Kisharang The étkezde of choice among Budapest cognoscenti. (p82) Földes Józsi Konyhája Rustic little place with a good range of főzelék (vegetables in a roux) dishes. (p56) Kéhli Vendéglő So famous that it appears in literature. (p55) Kárpátia A fin-de-siècle stunner with Hungarian and Transylvanian specialities. (p69)

Best by Cuisine Asian & Subcontinental

Kis Parázs Excellent Thai with a loyal after-club following. (p102) Curry House Warmly decorated and well-run Indian eatery. (p117) Pándzsáb Tandoori Family-run hole-in-thewall produces excellent Indian tandoori dishes. (p89)

Italian Da Mario Our new favourite Italian for superb pasta dishes and woodfired pizzas. (p82) Trattoria Toscana Pizza, pasta and antipasto with river views. (p70)

Fish & Seafood Halkakas Fresh, simple and great-value fish dishes. (p70) Horgásztanya Vendéglő Reliable Hungarian fish dishes by the Danube. (p32) Új Sípos Halászkert The place to try one of many Hungarian fish soups. (p56) bigfish Super-fresh fish and shellfish. (p103)

Jewish Macesz Huszár Hungarian-Jewish classics, done to perfection. (p103)

Spinoza Café An amiable neighbourhood venue that serves old favourites and klezmer (Jewish folk music). (p102) Modern Hungarian Laci Konyha Boutique and very eclectic eatery located in northern Pest. (p89) Gepárd És Űrhajó Inspired Hungarian cuisine with fabulous river views. (p69) Aranyszarvas Game dishes and more in the shadow of the castle. (p44) Fióka Bistro and wine bar winning points for new-style Hungarian dishes. (p32)

Best for GoodValue Lunch Vár Bistro Cheap and cheerful Hungarian fast food in the Castle District. (p32) Pick Ház Grab-and-go buffet good for sampling Hungary’s iconic sausage. (p82) Tranzit Art Café Former bus depot that’s a reliable spot for cheap lunches. (p45)

Byens beste kafeer, barer, underholdning …

The basic fare for all forms of transport is 350Ft (3000Ft for a block of 10), allowing you to travel as far as you like on the same metro, bus or tram line without changing/transferring. A ‘transfer ticket’ allowing unlimited stations with one change within one hour costs 530Ft. Tickets bought on the bus and all night buses cost 450Ft. A 24-hour travel card is poor value at 1650Ft, but the 72-hour one for 4150Ft and the sevenday pass for 4950Ft are worthwhile for most people. You’ll need a photo for the fortnightly/ monthly passes (7000/10,500Ft). The most central place to buy them is the ticket office at the Deák Ferenc tér metro station open from 6am to 11pm daily.

y Top Tip Opening hours (nyitvatartás) of any concern are always posted on the front door. Nyitva means open; zárva closed.

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Essential Information

 Extensive network of regular buses on 260 routes from around 4.15am to between 9pm and 11.30pm.

 Never get into a taxi that does not have a yellow license plate and an identication badge displayed on the dashboard (as required by law), the logo of one of the reputable taxi rms on the outside of the side doors and a table of fares clearly visible on the right-side back door.

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Taxi

y Best for...quick trips around town and easy night-time travel.  Taxis are cheap by European standards, with uniform ag fall (450Ft) and per-kilometre charges (280Ft).

séb Erz

follow the ring roads, including tram 6, which runs every 10 to 15 minutes round the clock.

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Pier, where the hydrofoils to and from Vienna dock, is on the tram 2 line, and is close to the Fővám tér station of the M4 metro line.

 Tickets must be validated at metro entrances.

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 The International Ferry

 The basic fare for the metro and all other forms of transport is 350Ft (3000Ft for a block of 10).

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International Ferry Pier

 Runs daily from 4am to about 11.15pm.

and are faster and more frequent than buses.

 The most useful trams

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blue metro M3 (station: Népliget). Stadion is on the red metro M2 (station: Stadionok).

Tram

y Best for...sightseeing along the way.

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stations are on metro lines.

digits beginning with ‘9’) operates every 15 to 60 minutes, depending on the route.

 Trams run on 30 lines

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4 Hang out in a Garden Club At Mika Tivadar Mulató (www.

mikativadarmulato.hu; VII Kazinczy utca 47; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 6am Thu-Sat;

Aká

Sztehlo Gábor Főu

option: take bus 200E (350Ft, on the bus 450Ft; 4am to midnight) to the Kőbánya-Kispest metro station and then the M3 metro into the city

three stations when the metro is closed.

 Both international bus  Népliget is on the

Metro

y Best for...speedy travel throughout the day, especially at rush hour.

3 Taste Some Hungarian Wine

On bustling Király utca, Kadarka (www. facebook.com/kadarkabar; VII Király utca 42; h4pm-midnight; W; mM1 Opera) offers a huge list of Hungarian wines in a modern, sociable bar. Take a table on the street for a spot of peoplewatching, or settle on a tall bar stool inside and ask for some advice from the ever-helpful servers.

Klauzál tér

4 #

Types of Eateries An étterem is a restaurant with a large selection, including international dishes. A vendéglő (or kisvendéglő) is smaller and usually serves inexpensive regional dishes or ‘home cooking’. An étkezde or kifőzde is something like a diner, smaller and cheaper than kisvendéglő and often with counter seating. The overused term csárda originally signified a country inn with a rustic atmosphere, Gypsy music and hearty local dishes. Now any place that strings dried peppers on the wall and a couple of painted plates seems to call itself that. A bisztró is a much cheaper sit-down place that is often önkiszolgáló (self-service).

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 A cheap but slow

 Night buses serve all

Stadion & Népliget Bus Stations

Getting Around

 Budapest has four underground metro lines. Three of them (M1, M2 and M3) converge at Deák Ferenc tér (only). The new M4 links with the M2 at Keleti pályaudvar and with the M3 at Kálvin tér.

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nopoly on picking up taxi passengers at the airport; to Pest it’s about 6000Ft, to Buda around 7000Ft. You can take any taxi to the airport.

green M4 and the blue M3 lines. Nyugati is on the M3. Déli is on the red M2 line.

Belváros (p62) The ‘Inner Town’ centres on touristy Váci utca, with its shops and bars, and Vörösmarty tér, home to the city’s most celebrated cukrászda (cake shop).

out on the bar’s little outside benches. Head inside for another beer or pálinka (fruit brandy) and to check out what live music is on the agenda.

Further south on the left is the restored Sándor Palace (Sándor palota), now housing the offices

modern terminals side by side 24km southeast of the city centre. Most international ights land at Terminal 2A.

 Fő Taxi has the mo-

 Airport Shuttle Minibusz ferries passengers to/from the airport in nine-seat vans directly to/from their hotel, hostel or residence. Be warned: you may have to wait while the van lls up.

are on metro lines of the same name.

 Keleti is on both the

2 #

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6 Sándor Palace

147 centre. Total cost: 700Ft to 800Ft.

 All three train stations

1 #

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7 Sikló Between Sándor Palace and the the Habsburg Steps leading to the Royal Palace is the upper station of the Sikló (p25), the funicular that will take you down to I Clark Ádám tér just west of the Chain Bridge.

146 Survival Guide

Keleti, Nyugati & Déli Train Stations

~ & Dob

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6 #

of the president of the republic. A rather low-key guard change takes place in front of the palace hourly between 9am and 6pm.

Walking along Úri utca south to Dísz tér you’ll come across the restored former Ministry of Defence, a casualty of WWII, and NATO’s supposed nuclear target for Budapest during the Cold War. A long-overdue renovation has just been completed.

Széna tér 0 200 m # 0 Széll 0.1 miles Csalogány u # Kálmán Széll Kálmán tér ¡ tér Batthyány # ro ¡ m tér u Várfok u £ # bau Csa Hunfalvy u 1 ástya # 2 # ub KRISZTINAVÁROS Tá VÍZIVÁROS 3 Bécsi # Anjo kapu tér Szilágy Dezső tér CASTLE HILL (VÁRHEGY) jor Szentháromság u 4 tér # Vérmező Déli pu # ¡ Úri ad # £ i Já Déli Train n Dísz Station óu tér Kr Mik € isz 5 # 6 # tina # 7 ¤ ## ¤ krt Royal uw Alagút Palace

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 Budapest has two

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In the centre of I Szentháromság tér is a statue of the Holy Trinity, a ‘plague pillar’ first erected by grateful (and healthy) Buda citizens in the early 18th century. Across the square, the Hilton Budapest incorporates parts of a medieval Dominican church and a baroque Jesuit college.

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4 Szentháromság

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CULTURA TRAVEL/TIM E WHITE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Castle Hill

Narrow Táncsics Mihály utca is full of little houses painted in lively hues and adorned with statues. In many courtyard entrances you’ll see sedilia, medieval stone niches used as merchant stalls. The leader of the 1848– 49 War of Independence,

Lajos Kossuth, was held in a prison at No 9 from 1837 to 1840.

tér

1 1

Lokalkjent Kjennernes Budapest

The large building to the west with the superbly coloured majolica-tiled roof contains the National Archives (Országos Levéltár), completed in 1920. Note the attractive group of burgher houses across Bécsi kapu tér, site of a weekend market in the Middle Ages.

3 Táncsics Mihály utca

Ferenc Liszt International Airport

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5�Take a Break The Castle District is a picturesque and romantic neighbourhood in which to break bread, but if you want something a tad sweeter stop in at the hole-inthe wall Budavári Rétesvár (Strudel Castle; %06 70 314 2559; www.budavariretesvar.hu/; I Balta köz 4; strudel 299Ft, menu 990Ft; h8am-7pm; g16, 16A, 116), where strudel in all its permutations – from cherry and apple to dill with cheese and cabbage – is freshly baked daily.

y Top Tip For the best way to get to the area where your accommodation is located, see p17.

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2 National Archives

Length 1.2km; two hours

Arriving in Budapest

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Start II Széll Kálmán tér Finish II Clark Ádám tér

Walk up Várfok utca from Széll Kálmán tér to Vienna Gate, the medieval entrance to the Old Town and rebuilt in 1936 to mark the 250th anniversary of the retaking of the castle from the Turks. It’s not that huge, but when loquacious Hungarian children natter on, their parents tell them: ‘Be quiet, your mouth is as big as the Vienna Gate!’

Worth a Trip E Top Sights Memento Park Aquincum

1 1

Local Life

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5�Take a Break On XI Bartók Béla út, just around the corner from the baths, you’ll find a number of eating options, including Marcello (p45), with great pizza and pasta dishes. For a coffee or a drink, Szatyor Bár és Galéria (p46) is a good choice.

Castle Hill 125

Best Walks Castle Hill

1 1

2 Check out a Little Local Bar With your appetite whetted, it’s just

Beer

Tiny Csak a jó sör (www.csakajosor.hu; VII Kertész utca 42-44; h2-9pm Mon-Sat;

¡ Opera #

 It’s customary to give the attendant a small tip.

Høydepunkter Få mest mulig ut av besøket

2�The Walk

a short hop to Kisüzem (www.facebook. com/Kisuzem; VII Kis Diófa utca 2; hnoon2am Mon-Wed & Sun, to 3am Thu-Sat; W; j4, 6), where relaxed drinkers hang

1 Sample a Hungarian Craft

mM1 Oktogon, j4, 6) closes early, so it’s a good place to start your evening. True to the name, which translates as ‘only good beer’, the shelves of this tiny shop are stacked high with brown bottles containing an extensive selection of international bottled craft

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WILL SANDERS/GETTY IMAGES ©

 Make sure you remember your locker number; the number on the tag is not the same as the one on the locker.

Swimming Pools The swimming pools at the Gellért are also mixed. The indoor ones, open year-round, are the most beautiful in Budapest; the outdoor wave pool (open May to September) has lovely landscaped gardens, where you can sunbathe or just while away a warm afternoon in summer.

Patrons at Gellért Baths

There’s no better introduction to Budapest than a tour of Castle Hill. The neighbourhood has everything that defines this delightful city: history, architecture, fabulous views and tourists in spades. If you’d like to take in the first three but avoid the last, make this an early-morning walk.

beer. Another half-dozen are usually on draught.

Local Life Bar-Hopping in Erzsébetváros Wander along Király utca or down Gozsdu udvar on a Friday night and it can feel like the whole world and his wife are here. Jostling with wide-eyed tourists and hen and stag parties may leave you wondering whether the locals have deserted this area altogether. They haven’t – you just need to know where to find them.

g7, 86, mM4 Szent Gellért tér, j18, 19, 47, 49

96 Erzsébetváros & the Jewish Quarter

y�Top Tips  Along with a bathing suit you might bring with you a pair of ipops and a towel as the sheets provided are not very absorbent.  Everyone must use a bathing cap in the swimming pools; bring your own or wear the disposable one for 200Ft.

In Hot Water In most other baths nowadays you are given an electronic bracelet that directs you to and then opens your locker or cabin. The Gellért is still doing it the old way: you find a free locker or cabin yourself and – after you get changed in (or beside) it – you call the attendant, who will lock it for you and hand you a numbered tag.

XI Kelenhegyi út 4, Danubius Hotel Gellért h6am-8pm

Gellért Baths

Art Nouveau Splendour The Turks bathed here in the 16th century at what was called Sárosfürdő (Mud Bath) after the fine silt that was pushed up with the spring water. But the Gellért Baths as we know them today opened in 1918. That explains the splendour of the Art Nouveau mosaics and statues, Zsolnay ceramic fountains in the bathing pools and the glass-domed main indoor swimming pool.

Gellért gyógyfürdő oMap p42, C4 www.gellertbath.hu

This neighbourhood offers the lion’s share of Budapest’s accommodation, restaurants serving every cuisine under the 1 1 1 sun1and1 the1city’s 1 1 1 1 1 1 hottest nightspots. 1 1 1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1 E1 Top Sights 1 1 1 1 1 1 Great1Synagogue

Byens områder Hva du finner hvor

Don’t Miss

Top Sights Gellért Baths Soaking in the thermal waters of the Art Nouveau Gellért Baths, open to both men and women in mixed areas (thus a bathing suit is required at all times), has been compared to bathing in a cathedral. The eight thermal pools range in temperature from 26°C to 38°C, among the hottest in Budapest. The water – high in calcium, magnesium and hydrogen carbonate – is said to be good for joint pains, arthritis and blood circulation.

Budapest på sitt beste

budapest_book.indb 2

1 1

# Great E Synagogue

Citadella & Liberty Monument #

A week before Make sure your bookings are in order and you have all references.

1 Vienna Gate

Praktiske tips og triks – om bl.a. hoteller

# Basilica of E St Stephen

E Top Sights Citadella & Liberty Monument Gellért Baths

124

Praktiske tips

1 1

40 Gellért Hill & Tabán

Tematiske lister over byens høydepunkter. Lett å planlegge!

1 1

Erzsébetváros & the Jewish Quarter (p92)

# Parliament

Royal Palace #

Gellért Hill & Tabán (p36) 1 1 1 1and the The Citadella 1 1 1 1 Liberty Monument gaze 1 1 1 1 1 down 1 1 1atop Gellért from 1 1 1 1 Hill on the neighbour1 1 1 1 hood Tabán. 1 1of the 1 1

A month before Reserve seats for a bigticket concert, musical or dance performance. Book top-end restaurants.

Verdt å vite Tips for en best mulig reise

Opplev Budapest Det beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

Parliament Basilica of St Stephen

# City E Park

Castle District (p22) Castle Hill, nerve centre of Budapest’s history and packed with important museums, is here, as is ground-level Víziváros, with some excellent restaurants.

K Taxi Taxis in Budapest are cheap by European standards, with uniform flag-fall at 450Ft and a per-kilometre charge of 280Ft.

Parliament & Around (p72) Takes in the areas around the Parliament building and the equally iconic Basilica of St Stephen, plus Nagymező utca, Budapest’s Broadway.

E Top Sights

E Top Sights Royal Palace

There are trams on 30 lines. They are often faster and generally more pleasant for sightseeing than buses.

N From International Ferry Pier Vienna hydrofoils arrive at and depart from the International Ferry Pier, which is on tram 2 and near the Fővám tér station of the M4 metro.

Advance Planning

Margaret Island & Northern Pest (p84) This unspoiled island in the Danube offers a green refuge, while northern Pest beckons with its shops and lovely cafes.

Óbuda (p50) This is the oldest part of Buda and retains a lost-in-the-past village feel; here you’ll find the remains of the Roman settlement of Aquincum and some legendary eateries.

An extensive system of buses running on some 260 routes day and night serves greater Budapest. A bus with an ‘E’ after the number means it is express, making limited stops.

Stations Stadion and Népliget bus stations are on the M2 and M3 metro lines respectively, which go to Deák tér.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ budapest) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Budapest Neighbourhoods

J Bus & Tram

J From Stadion & Népliget Bus

Budapest Info (www.budapestinfo.hu) Official website of Budapest Tourism.



Neighbourhoods 19

m Metro Budapest has four underground metro lines. The M1, M2 and M3 converge at Pest’s central Deák Ferenc tér (only), while the new M4 links to the M2 at Keleti pályaudvar and the M3 at Kálvin tér, both in Pest. The M2 reaches central Széll Kálmán tér in Buda, the M4 serves south Buda.

Hjelp til å forstå Budapest – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Arriving in Budapest

Before You Go

Need to Know

Lynguide til Budapest

Businesses 9am or 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday. Clubs 4pm to 2am Sunday to Thursday, to 4am Friday and Saturday; some open only weekends. Grocery stores and supermarkets 6am or 7am to 7pm Monday to Friday, 7.30am to 3pm Saturday; some 7am to noon Sunday. Restaurants 10am or 11am to 11pm or midnight. Shops 9am or 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday, some to 8pm Thursday.

144

145 Useful Websites

Survival Guide

 Lonely Planet (www. lonelyplanet.com/ budapest) Find reviews and book online.  Booking.com (www. booking.com) Tried and tested.

Before You Go

Book Your Stay

When to Go °C/°F Temp

Rainfall Inches/mm 4/100

30/86 20/68

2/50

10/50 0/32 -10/14

 Spring (Apr–Jun) Often wet, but just glorious, with fewer tourists.  Summer (Jul & Aug) Warm, sunny and unusually long, with a lot of festivals, but expect higher prices and long queues.

 Autumn (Sep & Oct) Beautiful, particularly in the Buda Hills, and festivals mark the szüret (grape harvest); holidaymakers have gone home.  Winter (Nov–Mar)

Can be cold and bleak; some attractions curtail their hours.

 In general, accommodation in the Buda neighbourhoods is more limited than on the other side of the Danube River in Pest.  A cheap hotel is generally more expensive than a private room but may be the answer if you are only staying one night or arrive too late to get a room through an agency.  Travel agencies levy a surcharge (at least for the rst night) if you stay fewer than three nights in a private room.  Budapest levies a 4% local tourist tax on visitors over 18.  The quoted rates usu-

ally include breakfast, but check. y Top Tip Some top-end hotels in Budapest do not include the whopping 18% VAT on accommodation in their listed rack rates; make sure you read the bottom line.

 Budapest Info (http:// old.budapestinfo.hu) Book through the tourist oﬃce.  Xpatloop Classieds (www.xpatloop.com/classieds) Contains adverts for longer rentals.  Caboodle (www. caboodle.hu) Useful and thorough lists of three-, four- and ve-star hotels.

Best Budget  Maverick City Lodge (www.mavericklodges.com) Modern, warehouse-style hostel with great facilities.  Shantee House (www. backpackbudapest.hu) Budapest’s rst hostel grows (up) in size and design.  Aventura Boutique Hostel (www.aventurahostel.com) Colourful number that shuns bunk beds and curfews.  Hotel Császár (www. csaszarhotel.hu) Small

but perfectly formed, with an Olympic-size pool attached.  KM Saga Guest Residence (www.km-saga. hu) Wonderfully eccentric and good-value rooms full of 19th-century furnishings.

Best Midrange  Gerlóczy Rooms deLux (www.gerloczy. hu) Tastefully designed, homey accommodation in a quiet central square.  Baltazár (http://baltazarbudapest.com/) Hotel with a high-end Castle location.  Casati (www.casatibudapesthotel.com) An artful conversion of a beautiful building with sustainable credentials.  Budapest Rooms (www.budapestrooms. eu) Well-run, goodlooking B&B with a very helpful host.  Hotel Papillon (www. hotelpapillon.hu) Delightful country-style hotel in the Buda Hills.

Best Top End  Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel (www.fourseasons.com/ budapest) Still the city’s

most luxurious hotel, risen phoenixlike from a derelict Art Nouveau palace.  Hotel Palazzo Zichy (www.hotel-palazzozichy.hu) Period features and ultra-modern design seamlessly combine in this sumptuous palace.  Danubius Hotel Gellért (www.danubiusgroup. com/gellert) A historic hotel with a historic spa.  Lánchíd 19 (www. lanchid19hotel.hu) Award-winning boutique hotel with stunning design both inside and out.  Zara Boutique Hotel (www.boutiquehotelbudapest.com) Charming boutique style in the Belváros, steps from the Danube.

Best Short-Stay Apartments  Katona Apartments (www.kartik.hu) Simply furnished and cleverly arranged apartments in a quiet old block.  Residence Izabella (www.residence-izabella. com) Fabulous conversion of a 19th-century Eclectic building just oﬀ swanky Andrássy út.

Komme seg rundt Viktig informasjon som lokalbefolkningen om åpningstider, etc.

29.01.16 12.42

Spesielt anbefalt: Se etter disse merkene!

Lonely Planets Budapest

Lonely Planets Lommekjentguider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen. 5 Spise Her finner du severdighetene du bare må få med deg, samt 6 Drikke tipsene som gjør besøket 3 Underholdning ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen opp i områder det 7 Shopping er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et brukervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspertforfatter har Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk sjekket ut alt det beste ved informasjon om de anbefalte stedene: byen: byvandringer, natteliv % Telefonnummer c Familievennlig og shopping, for å nevne noe. h Åpningstider # Kjæledyrvennlig # £ Lokalkjent-sidene hvisker deg i 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 p Parkering g Buss # ¡ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 øret hva som er ekstra genuint 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 n Ikke-røyk f Ferge 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 og spennende å utforske. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 i Internett-tilgang 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 #m Metro/T-bane £ A B C0 D de 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Her får du selvsagt W Wi-Fi-tilgang b Subway/T-bane 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 19 nødvendige, praktiske tipsene v Vegetariske retter j Trikk 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0000ý 0 0 0 0 # for at alt skal gå som smurt på menyen d Tog0000 0 0 0 0 R0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 E Engelskspråklig meny 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 underveis: reiserute-forslag, A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 u be0 0 0 0 00 0 0 hvordan komme seg rundt,iens 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Itapål hvor mye driks dudbør es gi 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Opéra 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Bd 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ulike steder. 63 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på kart Drikke 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 # ¡ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Boka er din garanti for de 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 for hvert område: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R Pl de virkelig store opplevelsene. s tor, til 03.00 fre n oge lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 og de ikke-søte 0000000verkene, 0# 0 iskremen d þ

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Lynguide til Budapest

Høydepunkter ��8 Lokalkjent �� 12 På fire dager ��14 Verdt å vite �� 16 Kart: byens områder �� 18

Opplev Budapest

Slottsdistriktet

Gellért-høyden og Tabán

Óbuda

Belváros

Parlamentet og rundt

Margitøya og nordlige Pest

Erzsébetváros og Det jødiske kvarteret

108

Sørlige Pest

Verdt en avstikker: Memento Park ��48 Aquincum ��58 En rundtur i Budas åser �� 60 Byparken ��118

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Budapest på sitt beste

123

Byens beste vandringer

Praktiske 143 tips Før du drar �� 144

Slottshøyden �� 124

Ankomst Budapest �� 146

Erzsébetváros og Det jødiske kvarteret �� 126

Viktig info A–Å ��147

Byens beste

Komme seg rundt �� 146 Språk �� 151

Mat �� 128 Drikke ��130 Shopping �� 132 For barn ��134 Kurbad og bassenger �� 135 Underholdning ��136 Arkitektur �� 137 For homofile og lesbiske �� 138 Rundturer ��139 Parker og hager ��140 Museer og gallerier ��141 Utbryterleker ��142

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Lynguide til Budapest Høydepunkter ��8 Lokalkjent �� 12 På fire dager �� 14 Verdt å vite �� 16 Kart: byens områder �� 18

Velkommen til Budapest Budapest er rikt utstyrt med både naturlig og menneske skapt skjønnhet. Byen ligger på begge sider av Donau og har Budahøydene som bakteppe. I tillegg har den nok barokk, nyklassisistisk og art nouveau-arkitektur til å til fredsstille de aller fleste. Men Donaus dronning er mer enn en vakker fasade. Om kvelden skrur hun på sjarmen og blir områdets fremste partyby.

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Budapest Høydepunkter Det kongelige palasset (s. 24) Fokus på Slottshøyden i Buda og byens mest besøkte severdighet. Det enorme kongelige palasset rommer to viktige museer, nasjonalbiblioteket og en overflod av viktige statuer og monumenter.

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Høydepunkter 9 St. Stefan-basilikaen (s. 76) Budapests viktigste kirke er en nyklassisistisk perle det tok over 50 år å fullføre. Her finner du Ungarns helligste gjenstand: Den hellige, høyre hånden til den helgenerklærte kong Stefan.

Gellért-badene (s. 40)

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«Kurbad» er en viktig del av hverdagslivet i Budapest. En svømmetur i Gellért-badene i art nouveau-stil, der vannet holder opptil 38° C, er blitt sammenlignet med å bade i en katedral.

29.01.16 12.42

Parlamentet ligger og troner på Pest-siden av Donau. Det er Ungarns største bygning. Her samles nasjonalforsamlingen og her oppbevares kong Stefans kronjuveler.

Det ungarske nasjonalmuseet (s. 110)

Byparken (s. 118)

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Byparken er Pests grønne lunge. Det er et åpent område som måler nesten nøyaktig én kvadrat kilometer. Her finner du museer, gallerier, en dyrehage, et permanent sirkus og et av byens beste kurbad.

Det ungarske nasjonal museet ble bygd for formålet i 1847. Her er nasjonens viktigste samling historiske gjenstander, fra kong Stefans skarlagensrøde kroningskåpe i silke til minner fra kommunisttiden.

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Høydepunkter 11 Memento Park (s. 48)

Memento Park byr på grelle statuer og overdrevne monumenter fra kommunisttiden. Parken kan både beskrives som en kirkegård over kommunismens tabber og en velpleid utgave av historiens søppeldynge.

Citadella og Frihets monumentet (s. 38) Citadella ligger øverst på Gellért-høy den. Festningen, som aldri ble brukt i kamp, ble bygd av habsburgerne etter Uavhengighetskrigen. Like ved ligger Frihetsmonumentet, en kvinne med palmegren som erklærer byens frihet.

Aquincum (s. 58) Antikkens romere bosatte seg i dagens Budapest på slutten av første århundre e.Kr., og Aquincum, den mest komplette, sivile romerske byen i Ungarn, rommer nå et innendørs museum og en utendørs arkeologipark.

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Den store synagogen (s. 94) Europas største jødiske tempel er denne store synagogen i maurisk stil. Den har en kjent kopperkuppel og er en av Budapests mest iøynefallende og populære bygninger.

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Budapest Lokalkjent

Etter å ha kastet et blikk på Budapests fantastiske utvalg severdigheter, er det på tide å komme deg bak kulissene og oppdage lokalbefolkningens kjente og kjære Budapest: lekre restauranter, snodige butikker og markeder, og evig-åpne barer og klubber.

En rundtur på Budahøydene (s. 60) XX Frisk luft

XX Artig transport

Her er det kanskje ikke så mange severdigheter, men Budahøydene er et kjærkomment pusterom fra sommerens varme, støvete by. Det største trekkplasteret er nok de uvanlige transportmidlene: en smalsporet tannstangbane fra 1800-tallet, et tog som drives av barn og en stolheis som frakter deg ned på fast grunn igjen.

XX Håndverksøl

XX Vin i verdensklasse

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Utforsk Váci utca og Vörösmarty tér (s. 64) XX Førsteklasses butikker XX Fristende kafeer

Bli med oss på en byvandring gjennom Budapests fremste handlegate, der kjeder og kjente merkevarer ignoreres til fordel for lokale stormagasiner, severdige bygninger og stilige kafeer, som ikonet Gerbeaud. Det er hoved-

stadens fineste cukrászda (konditori).

Fra marked til marked i sørlige Pest (s. 112) XX Lokale spesialiteter XX Levende historie

Dette er en fortelling om to markeder – det ene er et paradis for tilreisende, det andre de gråhårede fruers faste handlested – der vi går gjennom bakgatene og oppdager alt fra bokantikvariater og kule kafeer til gjen ferdene fra student opprøret fra 1956. I dette nabolaget lever minnene fortsatt videre.

Fra bar til bar i Erzsébetváros (s. 96)

I denne partybyen er det dumt å oppføre seg som et flokkdyr når dagen blir til kveld. Vi vet hvor du har det morsomst med minst mulig innsats, i hjertet av utelivsområdet: Erzsébetváros.

Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

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Lokalkjent 13

t på tide udapest: ber.

n best

Uteliv i Erzsébetváros (s. 96)

ukrászda

Tid for litt luksus på Gerbeaud (s. 65)

Szimpla bondens marked (s. 102)

l ige

BÁV (s. 83) Császár-Komjádibassengene (II Árpád fejedelem útja 8; h06–19)

ling om t ene er eisende, hårede lested nom pdager ariater gjen nt 6. I dette minnene

Andre fine steder å oppleve byen som en lokalkjent:

budapest_book.indb 13

Ervin Szabó sentral bibliotek (www.fszek. hu; VIII Reviczky utca 1; h10–20 man–fre, til 16 lør)

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