ISSUE 05
FEAT. MORENA PHELEU NEW AGE PANTSULA
PHOTOGRAPHY FASHION ARTS MUSIC
CONTENT
CLASSICS 08 14 16 50 54 59 76
TRENDING FASHION TRENDING SNEAKER MAZE TAKEOVER STYLE MY VINTAGE STREET WEAR PLAYLIST BEAUTY
FEATURES 20 26 32 38
JOZI VINTAGE PLUG SIZWE MBIZA PATTERN NATION BLUBOY
44
COVER: MORENA
62 64 66 70 74 78
PHELEU DJ DOOWAP DJ LAG RICHARD AVERAGE KHIMBART LEON CHAUKE ISABELLE MAHEALANI
ISSUE 05
In this issue, we explore the South African culture through fashion, music and arts. As you may know, Mazemag is an online magazine that focuses on the acknowledging talents of the fashion, music and arts industries. If you’re a new reader, welcome to Mazemag. We hope you enjoy reading this issue.
THE TEAM
EDITOR IN CHIEF CONTENT CURATOR/WRITER CREATIVE DIRECTOR CONTENT CURATOR SOCIAL MEDIA CURATOR SOCIAL MEDIA CURATOR
Mercedez Dlikilili Asande Kubone Lindo Msibi Kim Berandse Siyabonga Aang Quaviaisthe3rd
SPECIAL THANKS COVERED: MORENA PHELEU Morena Pheleu Mercedez Dlikilili Asande Kubone ADS Sneaker Lab (Siyabonga Aang, Khanyisani Mahlaba) EAD Tissue Oil Skincare (Mercedez Dlikili) FASHION TAKES Mercedez Dlikilili (Trending Fashion) Asande Kubone (Mazemag Takeover) Kim Barendse (Style My Vintage)
FASHION FEATURES Jozi Vintage Plug Sizwe Mbiza Pattern Nation Bluboy MUSIC FEATURES Rarebird Music DJ Doowap DJ Lag ART FEATURES Richard Average Khimbart Leon Chuake BEAUTY Isabella Mahealani
ISSUE 5 South Africa is such a diverse country with such diverse cultures. There are a total number of 11 languages. Imagine, an entire 11 languages, meaning there are so many diverse and unique cultures. A culture brings more of an identity to an individual. Cultures can also be invented, revamped or demolished completed. In South Africa, apart from the cultures with 11 LANGUAGES lol, there are other cultures in which have been invented through fashion, music and arts. For example, in music there’s the Kwaito culture, which ties in with the Pantsula dancing in which has its own dress code and attire. The Kwaito culture has played a huge influence in what most South African artists and also influencers now dress and also contribute to their lifestyles. Therefore in this issue, we’re focusing on the South African culture in fashion, music and arts and what or how it was invented and what influenced the culture. Thank you so much for reading. Until next issue.
Mercedez Editor in Chief xx
# M A Z E T R E N D I N G FA S H I O N
R emember the days when color
blocking and being bold in colors was an in thing in fashion? Yep, that trend has slowly made a comeback. The Fresh Prince of Bel Air was the coolest kid in the block in the 80’s with his fashion sense and style. The 80’s/ 90’s still has a huge influence as we see Bruno Mars and Cardi B making a comeback in the style of Bruno Mars’ music video, “Finesse”. Let’s look at some nostalgic headwear trends that still influence today’s trends.
KANGOL BUCKET HAT LL Cool J was considered as one of the best lyricist back in 80’s/90’s era. His fashion sense made it even easier for individuals to relate and adore him as he represented the Hip Hop culture. The Kangol fluffy bucket was his signature look which quickly became a trend to wear the Kangol bucket hat, a tracksuit and accessories with a big necklace.
DURAGS Durags have made a huge come back with more advanced colors. Women initially wore Durags during the 1930’s to keep their hairstyles fresh and stay looking brand new. However, black men particularly in the Hip Hop culture wore and still wear Durags as an accessory and have made it apart of the Hip Hop fashion culture.
BANDANAS Another nostalgic accessory that can never go old is the bandana. If you owned a bandana in the 90’s, you were considered as cool as icons such as Tupac and most especially Aaliyah who made the bandana trendy and an accessory one should possess in the 90’s. Women even wore bandanas as a top with jeans and sneakers. That’s how versatile this accessory is.
CLIPS HAIR CLIPS! The bigger the clips the better! Hair clips and scrunchies were fashionable back in the 80’s/90’s era as almost every woman wore them. The bigger the hair clips, the more of a statement they made. Today, big hairclips are even worn at red carpet events, being one of the main accessory statement pieces.
#MAZETRENDINGSNEAKER THE ORIGINS “Chuck Taylor All-Stars or Converse All Stars (also referred to as “Converse”, “Chuck Taylors”, “Chucks”, “Cons”, and “All Stars”) is a model of casual shoe manufactured by Converse (a subsidiary of Nike, Inc. since 2003) that was initially developed as a basketball shoe in the early 20th century. The design of the Chuck Taylor All Star has remained largely unchanged since its introduction in the 1920s. The shoe consists of a stitched upper portion, a toe cap that is usually made of white rubber, and a sole that is usually made of brown rubber. Although Chuck Taylors are made of various materials such as leather, the original and most widely known version of the shoe is made from cotton canvas. The innovative detail of the original shoe was the “loose lining” of soft canvas that was intended to provide flexibility and prevent blisters.”Source, Wikipedia/chuck_taylor|_allstars
If we were to nominate a classic sneaker of all time, the Converse All Star Chuck Taylors would take the sneaker award. Chucks have always been trendy regardless of the year or era. In South Africa, the Chucks have played a huge role in the Kwaito era as we’ve seen several Kwaito artists wearing different color Chucks fitting to a particular outfit of a particular occasion. Artists such as Trompies, Mdu, Arthur, just to name a few, made it a trademark to wear Chucks in the Kwaito era. As these artists were the inventors of the Kwaito era, they had a huge influence to their fans as to what should be worn. Therefore, each and every individual who was or still is a fan of Kwaito music and the culture is guaranteed to own a pair of Chucks. Let’s take a look at some fashion influencers who now still rock the Chucks. #CHUCKSTORIES
C N S V @nabilahkariem
@lorenzoplaatjies
MAZEMAG CULTURE TAKEOVER
K WA IT O C U LT U R E BY ASANDE KUBONE
According to Google Kwaito music is, “A
style of popular music similar to hip-hop, featuring vocals recited over an instrumental backing with strong bass lines”. Kwaito music isn’t only just a music genre; it represents an era in South Africa when the township musicians owned the streets. It is also a description of South Africa’s culture during the 1990s. This genre first emerged into the scene in the late 1980s, offering a mix of house music and easy flowing choruses. It wasn’t only the flow that seemed to have everyone grooving. It was also the rhythmic, lyrical delivery that had everyone relating to the songs. During this period in time, people all shared a common love for this genre. Not only could they groove to the genre but it also allowed them an opportunity to tell their stories, through the music. Kwaito music was the townships introduction to the rest of South Africa. Even those members of society who have crossed over to greener postures, reminisced about home through the songs aesthetics.
Even the music videos represented the people, in every aspect. The way they dressed, talked, walked, screamed township aesthetics. This genre shinned a light on all the hard working middle/lower class individuals who lived in all these different townships within the country. It gave the youth of that time hope. It gave the youth a bolder voice, giving them an opportunity to not be afraid to let people know where they come from.
Over the years, the genre has been mixed with other sounds, giving birth to new music. New Age Kwaito is what it’s referred to nowhere days. Artists like Cassper Nyovest have drawn inspiration from legendary Kwaito artist Doc Shebeleza, incorporating Kwaito with newer sounds
Musicians such as Muzi often infuse old Kwaito sounds with new wave 808s, taking the genre to newer heights.
Even though Kwaito is no longer as dominant as it used to be, it also has definitely influenced a new genre called Gqom. Gqom music is currently dominating the music scene. This particular genre draws its house infused sounds from KZN. The melodic structure used within the vocals of Gqom music is often taken from the freestyle approach popular in Kwaito music. Bab’Hugh Masekela once described Kwaito as “the core of township feeling”. He was definitely correct. It represented the black youth. These days, anyone and everyone enjoy music. Kwaito music walked, so that all these new genres we have today could fly.
JOZI VINTAGE PLUG WE GOT THE OPPORTUNITY TO INTERVIEW ONE OF JOZI’S TRENDY THRIFT BRAND AS THEY TELL US WHAT INSPIRED THEM TO START A THRIFT BRAND THAT FOCUSES ON RATHER STREETWEAR CLOTHING AND HOW THEY GOT ALSO TO COLLABORATE WITH HUGE BRANDS SUCH AS DAILY PAPER TO NAME A FEW.
#MAZEMAGFASHION @jozivintageplug
FOUNDER OF JOZI VINTAGE PLUG The founder of Jozi Vintage Plug Lebo Mahabane (@lebo_mahabane), originally from Diepkloof, Johannesburg. I then moved to Melville about four years ago. I’m super passionate about music and fashion. I started off as a DJ (well still am a DJ) and somehow found myself into the fashion industry.
WHAT INSPRED YOU TO CREATE A BRAND THAT FOCUSES ON STREET STYLE VINTAGE CLOTHING? For me, it was honestly when I saw a gap in the industry. Therefore, I used to manage a friend’s restaurant in Melville where a lot of TV and radio personalities would come by to get a drink or something to eat. A lot of them would ask me where I got the clothes I wore and I would tell them it’s a one of one because it’s thrifted. So a lot of them would offer me really good money for some of the stuff I wore. After a while, I would source what a particular person would want to buy and I would resell to them. In the long run I ended up getting a rail and putting it outside the shop I was managing.. In that way, that’s how Jozi Vintage Plug came about.
WE CONSTANTLY SEE TRENDS COME IN AND OUT OF DIFFERENT SEASONS. HOW DO YOU ENSURE TO MAINTAIN THE VINATGE FEEL IN YOUR BRAND YET MAKING IT CURRENT? I think with vintage clothing, it’s honestly not about what’s trending. A lot people that buy vintage clothing are trying get away from trends and try to be different. It’s more about selling what you can’t get at the trendy stores. So I try avoiding trends as much as I can. But sometimes I have source trendy items because there are people who would rather buy from us than go to the retail stores where everyone is going to have the same thing. HOW DOES THE SOUT AFRICAN CULTURE INSPIRE YOUR BRAND?
The South African culture inspires us a lot. Especially with how diverse everything is right now. More and more people are expressing themselves through fashion and music. The South African culture is showing more and more South African kids that you can do things by just being creative and unique. More and more people are openminded about trying new things now.
DOES SOUTH AFRICAN MUSIC, ESPECIALLY THE KWAITO ERA, HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR BRAND? Not really because I grew up listening to a lot of Hip-Hop. I would listen to Kwaito now though but majority of the time it was Hip-Hop. I think with Jozi Vintage Plug, the influence would be what I personally love as well which is Hip-Hop. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION IN SOUTH AFRICA AND THE CULTURE FROM WHAT IT WAS THEN TO WHAT IT IS NOW? The evolution of the fashion and culture has really evolved from 5-10 to ten years ago. Thanks to the Internet. I think that’s because more and more South African kids are able to express themselves. We also have a few individuals who have taken it to the next level for example, Riky Ricky, Mante Ribane and Fela Gucci to name a few.
WHICH SOUTH AFRICAN ARTISTS OR BRANDS HAVE YOU COLLABORATED WITH THUS FAR AND HOW WAS THAT EXPERIENCE?
I’ve collaborated with Daily Paper, Butan Wear and a whole list of South African celebrities. I don’t like name-dropping but I have had bad and good experiences. I think it’s all about the energy. WHICH OTHER SOUTH AFRICAN ARTISTS OR BRANDS HAVE AN INFLUENCE AND INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR BRAND THUS FAR?
The likes of Mante Ribane, Trevor Stuurman, BoyznBucks, and black coffee. Clothing Brands:Young n Lazy have inspired and influenced Jozi Vintage Plug.
LASTYLY, WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM JOZI VINTAGE PLUG THIS YEAR? This year you guys can expect a physical store or a studio (crossing fingers). I’ll be collaborating with a international brand for a Jozi lookbook. Also I’ll be dropping more really dope clothing and definitely doing more styling with artists.
SIZWE MBIZA FILMMAKER, DIRECTOR AND PHOTOGRAPHER SIZWE MBIZA HAS GRACED US WITH SUCH AMAZING WORK, CAPIVATING AND EMBRACING SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE THROUGH FASHION AND PHOTOGRAPHY.CONTINUE READING TO EXPLORE MORE ABOUT THIS INCREDIBLE CREATIVE.
SIZWE MBIZA @sizembiza
BORN and bred in Johannesburg, a dominant city in the fashion industries in South Africa made it evident for Sizwe Mbiza to be influenced by the exposure of the fashion and media industries. His artistic journey ventured in the 10th grade where he studied design as a subject. That was where his fashion and media interests expanded and got him into the fashion photography industry. “My friends and I in varsity then used to have regular photo-walks and
experimented with styling and photography. This all led to me being a content creator today,” he says.”
Collecting fashion and culture magazines enticed his interests in the spreads and editorials, further leading him in his discovery of storytelling through fashion photography and theoretic writing. Mbiza has always exposed and appreciated the South African culture
in the fashion industries through his art as he also produced short films consisting of South African stories through fashion. One of his popular short films titled “Nomasonto; Sunday’s Best, scored him a nomination at the BOKAH Emerging Creative Awards. “Nomasonto; Sunday’s Best”, was inspired by sisters, Miya Twala who is a fashion blogger and Neo Twala, producer of this short film, life experiences in the city of Johannesburg. “We thought it was fitting to use them as muses of the short film as they had shared their stories with me and they were the inspiration of the film. With the narrative of the film, we really wanted to highlight the excellence of Johannesburg in the fashion scene and how the city’s vibe informs different style tribes and fashion waves.”
Gug’othandayo is another fashion short film Sizwe produced in which expresses how elderly women embrace their ages through fashion and modernizing it. The concept came from creative director and stylist, Didinhle, in which the women of Gug’othandayo have their own theatre show with the same title. The theatre show explores the trials and tribulations of being elderly women in the modern South Africa today. “We then thought that it would be fitting to juxtapose these women the Nike Air Max, to introduce the fashion element. The Nike Air Max and the women of Gug’othandayo have many similarities, which is why they were the best models to showcase this sneaker. The aim for this shoot was to celebrate the Nike Air Max sneaker and Gug’othandayo simultaneously and highlight the fact that being young is a spirit and a feeling.” The whole shoot took place in Witbank, Mpumalanga.
In a production, it’s always important to collaborate and work with individuals who understand your vision and way of working. When it comes to Sizwe’s production team, he has achieved sustaining a creative and understanding team. “My frequent collaborators are Didinhle Ntushudisane, Neo Twala and Mamello Mokhele. They are all involved in different fields such as Styling, Production, Editing and Makeup Artistry respectively. When we take on a project, we individually add our own unique styles and specialized skills to make it the best thing we’ve done. Some challenges we’ve faced are from resources, not having enough hands on set to being undermined as young professionals. We have struggled greatly with these challenges but we always make it work in the end.” It is indeed a privilege to be in a country filled with loads of color and diverse cultures in which inspire our artistry and our lives in that we are now even more accessible to celebrate and embrace our South African cultures through the medium of Art.
Being inspired by artists such as 7th member, photographer from NYC, as well as local artists such as Rich Mnisi Justice Mukheli, Didinhle Ntshudisane, just to name a few, who have embraced and celebrated the South African culture, especially in the fashion industry, Sizwe’s work in his style and formalities have also adapted the motive to embrace and celebrate our beautiful and diverse South African culture and the everyday lives through the works of amazing storytelling and fashion photography.
AA CHAT CHAT WITH WITH
PATTERN NATION @pattern.nation
WE HAD A CHAT WITH THE FOUNDERS OF PATTERN NATION AND HERE’S WHAT THEY HAD TO SAY ABOUT THEIR COLORFUL BR AND.
WHO IS PATTERN NATION? HOW DID THE BRAND COME ABOUT? CYDNEY: “Pattern Nation is founded by me, Cydney Eva Pattern, in which was launched in October 2015. I am a multimedia artist, born and raised in Vancouver, Canada. Wanting to form a movement that combined my passions being mural painting, jewelry/fashion design, dance, music, photography, film and more while also creating space for collaboration and content creation with other diverse dynamic artists globally birthed Pattern Nation. Before meeting my creative partner and husband, Costa Besta, in March 2017 while I was in Durban South Africa, Pattern Nation was primarily based in Vancouver and I incorporated various local creatives in every project produced. Since Costa came on as a co-curator, we are now based between Durban and Vancouver. Apart from being a co-curator of Pattern Nation, Costa is also a performing artist, does mural art, clothing and shoe painting, modeling, photography, basically he’s a creative.”
PATTERN NATION IS A BRAND IN WHICH WE SEE MAINLY FOCUSES ON CLOTHING. WHY? COSTA: “Patterns are everywhere; we see patterns in our everyday lives, in things we do on a daily are patterns. For instance, waking up at a specific time every day on its own is a pattern. I can say the ultimate inspiration is life itself.” DOES THE SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE IN FASHION AND LIFESTYLE HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR BRAND? IF SO, HOW?
CYDNEY: ”Definitely, ever since Pattern Nation had its first show in Johannesburg at Assemblage Gallery in April 2017. I have been so warmly welcomed by the South African community of artists and have had the pleasure of connecting with them. I really love how expressive and original the street style is in South Africa; the essence of experimentation and colorful 90svibe directly influences the engendered clothes we make. In my paintings, I’m also inspired by the South African culture particularly the Ndebele tribe and especially artists such as Esther Mahlangu. However, my biggest South African influence is of course my partner, Costa. It’s such a pleasure to learn and work with him.”
HOW DOES VISUAL ARTS HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN PATTERN NATION? COSTA: “Visual arts are one of the pillars of Pattern Nation. Not only do we make clothing and jewelry, we also paint murals, install BLOBS interactive textile play sculptures, make art, fashion, dance, short films and fashion photography. Many of our events take place in galleries and alternative venues as we love to work on interdisciplinary projects involving artists working in various mediums including music.” WHO HAS PATTERN NATION COLLABORATED WITH THUS FAR? CYDNEY: “So far, Pattern Nation has collaborated with over 80 artists globally. Every project we work on engages so many talented and inspiring humans. We have had the pleasure of creating magic in Vancouver, Durban, Joburg, Montreal, Toronto, Los Angeles, London, Oxford, Mumbai, Bangalore and San Pedro Belize.”
WHAT’S THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THIS “SPLAT (WITH PAX AND COSTA)” COLLECTION? COSTA: “We just want to create a colorful and positive movement without any politics. We love what we do and who we do it with; I just want to see us working with different artists and making a positive change for artists and the world at a large.” APART FROM PATTERN NATION, WHICH OTHER BRANDS ARE YOU INSPIRED BY AND WOULD LIKE TO COLLABORATE WITH? CYDNEY: “Some clothing brands that inspire us are Cross Colors, Chusuwannapha, Yevu Clothing, Katie Jones Knits, Sleepless Mindz, Jahn0y, Gorman, pr0fan1ty, Peace Fits, Nubian City, Gazzy by Gazzo, Nor Black Nor White and Shakalulu Designs. We would love to collaborate with and of those brands and of course Adidas, Puma or Reebok.” WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON THE EVOLUTION OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY NOW IN TERMS OF INDIVIDUALS BEING MORE EXPRESSIVE WITH THEIR ART? COSTA: “fashion will never die, as long as people need clothing to cover their bodies. These days fashion is open minded and broad that you can basically wear anything you feel like wearing as long as you’re feeling good and you’re making a statement. It can be clothes that look like they haven’t been washed in 10 years to a piece of garment just covering your upper body or lower body. Fashion is a freedom of expression; you’re not allowed to be judged.”
WHICH FASHION ICONS WOULD YOU LIKE TO WEAR PATTERN NATION? CYDNEY: “I would love to collaborate with Grace Jones, Iris Apfel, Manthe Ribane, Jojo Abat, Ebony Bones, Will Smith as Fresh Prince and Alok Vmenon.” WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM PATTERN NATION THIS YEAR? CYDNEY: “Expect more colorful engendered for people of all ages and sizes, more murals, more playful BLOB installations, more collaborative events and performances! We will be based in Durban for most of 2019 so looking forward to growing our community in Africa and we have recently also showcased at Lesotho Fashion Week! COSTA: “You should expect nothing less than colorful, vibrant and funky clothing with a lot of coordination of patterns and color pallets. Performances, DJ sets from me and more artist collaborations.”
BLUBOY Look Book .
FASHION CREATIVE, BLUBOY, IS AN ARTIST, IN WHICH INFUSES HIS FASHION DESIGNS WITH DIGITAL ILLUSTRATIONS. HERE’S A LOOK BOOK OF SOME OF HIS WORK.
PANTS FROM THE “ART IS WAR” COLLECTION.
ILLUSTRATION FROM THE “ART IS WAR” COLLECTION.
T-SHIRT FROM THE “SENSITIVE THUG” COLLECTION.
ILLUSTARTION FROM THE “SENSITIVE THUG” COLLECTION.
@itsmorena
#MAZEMAGCOVERED
THE NEW AGE 25 PANTSULA & PANTSULAS & MORENA PHELEU MORENA PHELEU
ROOTED IN THE STREETS OF SOWETO IS PHOTOGRAPHER, MORENA PHELEU, WHO EXPRESSES HIS CRAFT THROUGH TELLING THE SOUTH AFRICAN WITHOF PANTSULA 25 PANTSULA. ROOTED INSTORIES THE STREETS SOWETOINFLUENCERS, IS PHOTOGRAPHER, MORENA READ MORE ABOUT THEIR ARTICLE IN NEXT PAGE >>> PHELEU, WHO EXPRESSES HIS CRAFT THROUGH TELLING THE SOUTH AFRICAN STORIES WITH PANTSULA INFLUENCERS, THE NEW AGE PANTSULAS. READ MORE ABOUT THEIR ARTICLE IN NEXT PAGE >>>
COVER PAGE STYLED BY WATERMELON SOCIAL CLUB
TRYING to perfect the African aesthetic and most importantly the South African culture through his work is a Soweto based freelance photographer and retouch editor, Morena Pheleu. His journey began when he would Photoshop and edit selfies for his classmates, who soon became his clients during his matric year, as a strategy of making quick money. “During my same matric year, there then was an advertising company that sponsored our school, therefore my friend and I made a bet on who is going
to get the learner-ship to go to Umuziphotoclub and Vega. I then won the bet with my pictures and selfie editings.” elaborates Morena .
Photography on its own is such an important form of visual art. The influence of visual arts in painting and drawing plays a huge role in his perspectives in the photography industry. “I have always been into art. I drew doodles in my textbooks and enjoyed drawing cartoons such as Dragon Ball Z and Pokemon since primary. Although I enjoy drawing still,
I still choose photography over everything.”
Expressing our South African stories through fashion made Morena become more diverse with photography and engaging with other fashion creatives such as The New Age Pantsulas. Converse Chuck Taylors had a huge impact in Morena’s photography as the sneaker had a huge influence and still does, in the South African culture especially in the Kwaito music industry as Kwaito Kings wore the sneaker, making it effervescently cool. For Morena, initially growing up in the kasi (hood) Meodowlands where there were groups of criminals or hijackers who owned the streets made wearing Chucks look cool.
If you were caught wearing the Converse Chucks, you were either considered as a “Skhotheni” (a troublesome individual) or a criminal. “I remember this one dude called Tebza Mrembula and boy did he love his Chucks. Therefore, in my kasi during that time, Chucks were known as the kicks for criminals and naïve little me would wear my Chucks to church and would always get kicked out especially by my Sunday school teacher who would instantly lose her cool when she saw them in them. Thinking about it, events like those make me want to change the perspective of the youth culture of our South African culture. When I hear phrases like “Pantsula or Kwaito is dead” doesn’t sit well with me because the culture is embedded in us, especially if you were a kid like me who grew up in the kasi, and I want to further explore and express that the culture still exists and we still live by it.”
THE NEW AGE TPHAENNTESW ULAAGSE 2P5ANPTASNUTLSAUL A THE NEW AGSE PANTSUL AS
Having his friends as muses, The New Age Pantsulas in which is a group of young individuals who still embrace and try to express the South African culture in Pantsula through fashion and dance, make it much easier for Morena to capture the South African culture. “The stories we tell are the stories we wish were showed and embraces back in the day today. I wish amaPantsula were not seen as criminals but as lovers of the South African culture and recreating theior own culture and expressing it through music, fashion and dance, hanging the perspectives thatwere there and showing the beautiful sides of the hood.” We then asked The New Age Pantsulas few questions about themselves and the culture they’re trying to express and here’s what they had to say individually. >>>
WHO ARE THE NEW AGE PANTSULAS? QINISO: “The New Age Pantsulas is a group of young talents who embrace the pantsula lifestyle. Not only are we a group but we are a culture. The group was formed when Morena, our photographer, came up with a concept of shooting kasi style.”
HOW DOES THE PANTSULA AND KWAITO CULTURE HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR STYLE AND LIFESTYLE? LETHABO: “ Since I’m a 90’s kid, I grew up in an era where Kwaito and the Pantsula culture were prominent, as such. It had and still has a great impact on my style and lifestyle as a whole because of the originality it represented.”
HOW HAVE YOU MANAGED TO MAINTAIN THE RELEVANCE OF YOUR STYLE THROUGHOUT THE SEASONS AND YEARS AS FASHION CHANGES CONSTANTLY? TYGA: “As a group, we always inspire and show each other new things. Sometimes you find one of starting to be mentor when it comes to what we do and we always positively hoping for the best.””
STYLE MY
VINTAGE A LIFETIME INFLUENCE BY KIM BARENDSE
IMMEDIATELY upon meeting strangers, a lot of them find it mandatory to set off curious ritual of thumbing through my tattoos, rigorously. Introductions start off with a fleeting full body scan leading to a more focused inspection and finally the tugging and lifting of limbs for closer security. When their eyes finally
fall upon the larger than life sized portrait tattoo of Tupac Shakur on my thigh provocatively smiling back at them. I’m often met with a range of reactions such as “Nangu uTupac fethu! Yoh Yoh Yoh” to “Biggie is better.” (rolling eyes) to “That’s insanely dope.” to “Is that a stencil?” or somewhat of a blank expression but do not be perturbed by their
blank expressions my comrades born in the eighties and nineties. What I’m ultimately trying to prove is that the ones that haven’t heard of this man in some shape or form is miniscule in comparison to the impact he has had over millions of lives. Personally I’d be failing dismally in trying to describe his essence and spirit with mere mortal
“
…eyes finally fall upon the larger than life sized portrait tattoo of Tupac Shakur…
Tattoo art by Paul Wheatley.
words and when you reach the end of this article remember that even then all that was written here, these words, are persistently and continuously clambering at the heels of his essence inadequately trying to depict who he was.
Tupac; a man of many titles among them being a poet, socially conscious lyricist, rapper, actor, screen writer, activist and record producer captured millions of fans with his raw, transparent, insightful and sometimes provocative lyrics conjuring up a gritty, complex, multidimensional and forthright narrative of realities of the world. He has created positively uplifting anthems that have stood the test of time such as “Dear Mama”, “Brenda had a baby”, “White Manz World”, “Keep ya head up” and “Changes” with his lyrics celebrating blackness and black women; instilling hope and creating awareness around racist and prejudice system or more accurately stirring dormant emotions within you about the injustices of this world and thus you retaliate in the small ways you know how singing his songs loudly and animatedly. His effortlessly graphic and descriptive emotional delivery is why millions can relate to his music. The words “Tupac and fake” are like water and oil. THEY DON’T MIX. I have a variety of reasons why I’m slightly obsessed with this legend but mainly being his natural ability to speak on social issues with his parents being members of the Black Panther Party, this came as no surprise. His intellectual articulation of everyday lives; some of his though processes and of course with those piercing eyes and devilish smile often make me finding myself in a trance while drool dribbles down the side of my mouth. Now I am not ignorant of his flaws, something we all have and struggle with. His degrading and misogynistic lyrics flung at the opposite sex, the violence he surrounded himself with, the altercations and legal issues he was involved in. In no way do I condone any of lawless behavior. LONG LIVE PAC.
STREET STREET CULTUR CULTUR TAKE
Name: Mswazi Dlamini IG Handle: @mswazidlamini HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR STYLE? My style is what you normally see back in the old days, tracksuits and lethal color coordination to give you visual reference, I’d say like Will Smith from Fresh Prince. WHICH FASHION ICONS INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR STYLE? I look up to a group called PAQ mostly Elias because of how he manages to make vintage tracksuits look neat and also because the group always manages to come up creative ideas week in and week out. WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON THE EVOLUTION OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE IN FASHION NOWADAYS? The evolution of fashion in South Africa has changed for the better and is really reaching the top now. The youth is definitely the key due to the social media platforms we have. DO SOUTH AFRICAN VISUAL ARTS AND ARTISTS HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR STYLE? There are no visual artists that inspire my sense of style at this moment. WHICH SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION ICONS OR BRANDS INSPIRE YOUR STYLE? The brand DEAD, which is owned by Bangy, would be one of my favorite brands in South Africa because the content and the clothes this brand has is on another level. He executed his tracksuit and t-shirts and what I like about it the most is that he adapts to street wear outfits of today and does it with his own creativity which comes out clean and inspires me a lot.
RE RE Name: Szwile Ndlovu IG Handle: @szwilendlovu HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR STYLE? My style is high breed of street wear and smart casual. WHICH FASHION ICONS INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR STYLE? Terence Sambo, Leo Mandella, Gregory Roberts and Goldie Williams. I relate and draw a lot of inspiration from these figures because many could define them as street wear. WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON THE EVOLUTION OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE IN FASHION NOWADAYS? Honestly, I feel as if the South African fashion culture is on the right path going forward. Day by day new creatives are emerging and with the help of social media and online sites such as Mazemag. Creatives are given a platform to express their opinions and show off their talent or even better, collaborate with other creatives. All this is now possible due to this publication and the growth of the culture that gives a better opportunity for upcoming creatives. DO SOUTH AFRICAN VISUAL ARTS AND ARTISTS HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR STYLE? Yes, South African visual artistry influences my fashion sense, purely because I feel as if every creative somehow portrays themselves as a form of art. I find myself falling in love with taking pictures of buildings, clouds, nature and my mates. An image just has to speak to you in some way. Trevor Stuurman is a South African visual artist I draw a lot of inspiration from. WHICH SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION ICONS OR BRANDS INSPIRE YOUR STYLE? Sol-Sol, Flair.91, dead.9, Wanda le Photo and Richmanskyf. These are the five top South African brands that influence my style.
Name: Lungelo Steven Jr Tabede IG Handle: @lungelostevnjr_ HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR STYLE? Unpredictable. WHICH FASHION ICONS INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR STYLE? I look up to Tyler Grosso, Blonde McCoy, Ian Connor and the late A$AP YAM$. These figures taught me how to find my own voice. Even though I need the help of others, I can’t move like how everyone else does. They taught me to dare to be different in a sense that you have to walk a path that a few would consider. To be an evolution; which is by understanding what was popping off in the past so you can determine what will pop in the future. But what they taught me the most is to invest everything in the art form of self-expression and through that you become the embodiment of the art form of itself. WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON THE EVOLUTION OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE IN FASHION NOWADAYS? I feel that the evolution of the South African culture is growing really quick as more and more people, especially the youth, are really out here expressing themselves but we still have a long way to go. DO SOUTH AFRICAN VISUALS ARTS AND ARTISTS HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR STYLE? Of course. For instance, I’m highly influenced by things around me, including the city and people. Everything I see definitely does influence the way I dress and my style. WHICH SOUTH AFRICA FASHION ICONS OR BRANDS INSPIRE YOUR STYLE? Definitely Long Walk Lifestyle from my city, Durban and Vulcom Juwish from Johannesburg.
Name: Sphe Myeza IG Handle: @ufrance HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR STYLE? Well, I certainly think that my style is more of basic in terms of street wear. I’m more into thrifted trends. WHICH FASHION ICONS INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR STYLE? I look up to local stylists that are around Durban, Johannesburg and Cape Town. The likes of Snolly, Tyrese Rooi, Helosiz and Lenzo. I look up to them because their style is iconic and simple and mostly clean. WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON THE EVOLUTION OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE IN FASHION NOWADAYS? I can’t say much about the evolution of the South African culture in fashion nowadays. I’m a simple person therefore, I get thrilled by chilled simple outfits. DO SOUTH AFRICAN VISUAL ARTS AND ARTISTS HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR STYLE? Yes. WHICH SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION ICONS OR BRANDS INSPIRE YOUR STYLE? South African brands that inspire my style are brands such as DEAD by Bangy, Young and Lazy and Sol-Sol.
#MAZEMAGMUSIC
PLAYLIST
REVIEW
A unique music aesthetic platform, showcasing artists that make rare blissful music. Email for a review Rarebirdsociety@yahoo.com (Powered by @Rarebirdsociety)
L BANDI – greatness, in a hopeless city
Song of the issue CHRIS SNAKE – Dail It After dropping $picey, Chris Snakes has been on the list of people one should look out for. This youngling is well known as an endowed writer, rapper and producer who have been consistent with his presentation on his latest single “Dial It”. Chris has a skill of flipping simple concepts and makes them sound catchy while not failing to deliver a straight forward message with word play and he did just that from playing with the “Dial it” and “Die Hard” phrases on the hook to delivering three smart and clean verses. Chris has opened up for artists such as Nasty C and has worked with Aewon Wolf. Kindly subscribe to the RareMusik Youtube page and also Soundcloud to get an insight of this track.
Nowadays it’s rare to find artists who have the courage to tap into their personal spaces and speak their true hearts out. Proving that such artists do still exist is L Bandi in this masterpiece. L Bandi delivered a very sentimental topic in this single Kindly subscribe to the RareMusik Youtube page and also Soundcloud to get an insight of this track.
ADAM – Convenience Convenience is a project of a combination of dreamy and trippy sounds by a Winnipeg, Canada, based indie/rnb-pop artist Adam Hanney Kindly subscribe to the RareMusik Youtube page and also Soundcloud to get an insight of this track.
MC REGGIE - DM The Social Affair MC Reggie has created such a household name for himself. Watching his career unfold is such a wonderful thing. “DM The Social Affair” is his latest single; the whole song is inspired by a relationship between two people who genuinely gravitate to each other although aren’t emotionally involved. In the beginning of the song, it’s a skit of a conversation about a third party who may be involved and there is a war amongst the two discussing the potential involvement. Let’s allow you discover more about this track by subscribing to RareMusik on YouTube and also on SoundCloud.
BLACK SASHI- Fire Flame In a male dominated industry, seeing female rappers like Black Sashi pushing to break the norm is so inspiring and cheering. Besides the “female rapper” category, Black Sashi is more than just that. In her latest single, “Fire Flame”, she proves it. With a funky yet trippy beat, she amazingly switches flow; flexing with her word play on verses and easy to catch on hook. Listen to this track on YouTube and on SoundCloud at Rarebird Musik.
COACHWAVE - Frostbite Frostbite is a single by the New York native and Washington DC based rapper, Coachwave. Just like the song’s title, this song sounds cold with easy sing along verses and flow. The setting and mood of the whole track is surrounded by a winter feel; lyrics which reminisce about a relationship that has become cold. The distorted and screwed hook brings more emotions to this almost 3 min song. Coachwave’s deliverance is pure which makes him distinct and outstanding from any typical rapper/artist. Check Coachwave on Rarebird Musik on YouTube and SoundCloud.
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DJ DOOWAP COMPILED BY: Mercedez Dlikilili; Asande Kubone
@djdoowap
KHETSIWE MORGAN popularly known
as DJ Doowap is a futuristic, fearless force to be reckoned with. Having had spent most of her life as an athlete, her love for creating grew with her as she travelled around the world; discovering new energies and cities. Her love for making music and dj-ing was ignited when she frequently used to visit underground clubs in London. Through these frequent visits, she would be transported into different worlds. She decided to grow this fascination and study sound engineering. Building a name in the international scene helped her to offer a variety in her mixing and dj-ing. Moving to South Africa definitely broadened her musical ear. Incorporating brass driven sounds with other genres such as gqom and hip hop has made this dj a cut above the rest. Having played for massive crowds in events such as Oppikoppi, Zone 6 and Chill Out
and will soon be performing at Afropunk, has made her a fan favorite within the masses. Her world travels have set her apart in the entertainment industry. As a creative, she is really pushing boundaries in the combo games (for those who don’t know, the word “combo/s” is a renowned word for “fashion”).
London played a big part in inspiring the way she dresses. One cannot shy away from the fact that London has some of the world’s most futuristic dressers. Being in such an environment played a beautiful role in shaping her into this fearless, colorful dresser we all are inspired by. Not forgetting her amazing colorful hairstyles. The colorful hair compliments each outfit she wears. Both combos and hair stay communicating. The future has a lot to offer this futuristic, fearless creative entertainer. You better watch the space.
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DJ LAG COMPILED BY: Mercedez Dlikilili; Asande Kubone
@realdjlag
EVERY GENERATION has a genre of music they relate to. Heavy, dark, hard hitting sounds are the rhythms our heads and feet move to. Gqom music is the sound track for the township youth. This genre originally emerged in Durban townships in the early months of 2008. Fast forward to 2019 and the Gqom genre has a larger South African following, beating out hip hop and kwaito.
Over the years, the sound has grown and is more established. One cannot shy away from the fact that most Gqom producers grew up in townships. They developed their craft using fruity loops, in a bedroom, elokshini (township). “What happens in the dark will always find a way to shine.”- J Cole, 2018. This is also the case for Lwazi Asanda Gwala aka DJ Lag. The ice drop hit maker started this whole journey in his bedroom in
Clermont. Little did he know that a few years later, he’ll be rocking the stage at some of the world’s biggest festivals (Boiler Room, Electronic Music festival), just to name a few. What started off as something he does for his friends and dance crews, has earned him the title “King of Gqom”. This dj is considered as one of the pioneers of this genre. He started doing this when Gqom was played only at house parties and taxis around the cities to now being played at huge festivals. No one ever thought this genre would grow in numbers and popularity the way it has now. DJ Lag has shared stages with some of the world’s heavy weights. Internationally, he has a growing audience ranging from people in Europe and all over the world. DJ Lag has created a great reputation for himself, pioneering the sound and taking it to greater heights.
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RICHARD AVERAGE My name is Richard Horn. My brand’s name is Richard Average and I go under that name. I’m a 23 y/o illustrator from Cape Town. I enjoy skateboarding, street fashion, music and all things creative. Being from a small area in Cape Town called Micasa, in which not a lot of people may be familiar with but being from that area has made me the artist I am today.
AS A DIGITAL AND SKETCH VISUAL ARTIST, HOW DO YOU INFUSE THE TWO ELEMENTS? Drawing has always been the foundation of what I do and as I got older, I found out about graphics design and ended up studying it. I always thought that in graphics design, you have to choose one style of element and stick to it but I found a way as to infuse my passion which is drawing into design; by taking my drawing into photo-shop or illustrator and then infusing cool elements and graphics to it.
WHAT INTRIGUED YOU PASSION FOR VISUAL ARTS?
I started drawing when I was like 7 when I saw my older brother, Chester Horn, drawing and he inspired me to draw and produce art ever since. . My older brother is a fine artist and seeing him draw every day or paint inspired me more than he can imagine. As I got older, I kept drawing and drawing until eventually it became a thing whereby I couldn’t stop drawing and I became passionate about it. Also, the idea of just how you can communicate your thought or message through visual arts always intrigued and inspired me.
@richardavervge
AS A STREET CULTURE VISUAL ARTIST, WE SEE YOU MAINLY PORTRAYING SNEAKERS. WHAT’S YOUR INTEREST IN ILLUSTRATING DESIGNS ON SNEAKERS?
I’ve always loved sneakers and always felt that sneakers are what makes an outfit complete. I’m into fashion and styling as well and I think what sneakers does for me is that they either a first or last touch to an outfit. How sneakers come into my art is, well I’ve always liked new sneakers and how they tie into the art and culture especially in Cape Town. WHICH SKETCH AND/OR DIGITAL ARTISTS INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR ARTISTRY?
I am inspired by Karabo Poppy, Russell Abrahams, T Wei, Semi skmmed min, Awemigo, Al Luke, Keya Tama, Elton Dick (Loki Clothing), Plan Rob (Robin Esripse), Fok Alles, oh and so many more amazing guys out there! DOES SOUTH AFRICAN CULTURE HAVE AN INFLUENCE IN YOUR ART?
Yes, definitely since I’m from Cape Town and there’s so much culture around me.
WHICH BRANDS OR INDIVIDUALS HAVE YOU COLLABORATED WITH THUS FAR?
I’ve collaborated with Puma as well as an amazing local brand called Art Club and friends. Oh and also with Sneaker Lab. WHICH BRANDS OR INDIVIDUALS HAVE YOU COLLABORATED WITH THUS FAR?
You can expect amazing collaborations, amazing work and growth. You can expect murals and also a website coming up. Man, just a lot of positivity.
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SKETCHES BY KHIMBART @khimbart_miyamoto
DURBAN is one of the cities in South Africa that constantly produces amazing talents especially in the arts industries. Self-taught sketch visual artist, Njabulo Mngwengwe is one great example of the talent this city bares. “I grew up watching my older brother draw when he was approximately 6 y/o, if I’m not mistaken. He would draw soccer teams; basically create his own football tournament comics like the Super strikers comic books. He was really good at it therefore seeing him draw intrigued my passion fort visual arts as I would then ask him to teach me how to draw as I then later got a hang of it.” His first sketch was produced in 2nd grade; it was a packet of snacks in which had wrestling WWE printing in the front of the snacks package and that was what he drew. “I loved the packaging lol as it has Stone Cold Steve Austin. I drew that first drawing in front of my school mates in school, imagine such pressure haha but I managed to pull it off. Not to mention how bad it was the first time but I managed to pull it off and everyone surprisingly liked it. What actually inspired that art piece were the taste and the crunchiness of the chips that were in the packet.”
Being inspired by also Durban based photographers such as Bheki Mthembu and King Zimela raised an interest in Khimbart’s artworks as his forte is now mainly portraits and self-portraits in which photographed by these photographers. “I’d really like to collaborate with these photographers as their work has such a great inspiration to my art. Japanese artists and artworks inspire my artistry and creativity as well.” When it comes to mediums, Khimbart mainly uses pencil and watercolor paint. “Well when it comes to having art supplies, it has been a struggle but thanks to my sister and my late friend, Tina, for always providing me with art materials. Especially my friend Tina.” South Africa is a country with such diverse cultures that allows any artist to be highly inspired by his/her surroundings. For Khimbart, he draws his inspiration from not justhe draws his inspiration from not just a country but the entire African continent as without our cultures; we are just people with no paths, no roots and especially no art. “I try to put an African theme in sme of my portraits as I feel the need to do so as that states my identity.”
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THE ART OF LEON CHAUKE Q: WHO IS LEON CHAUKE? A: I am a self-taught visual artist and photographer from a township called Kaarfontein, situated in the heart of Johannesburg.
Q: WHAT INTRIGUED YOUR PASSION FOR THE ARTS INDUSTRY? WHY DIGITAL ARTS? A: I’ve always been inspired by where I come from. The love of earth and growing, the love of exploring different parts of your brain and creating stuff has always intrigued me. I became diversified and in constant flux therefore I love experimenting and I’ve always had some visual incentives, a sensation, and an emotion that becomes a feeling that I want to revive digitally. Q: AS A SELF-TAUGHT VISUAL ARTIST, WHICH ARTISTS INSPIRED YOU INTO VENTURING INTO DIGITAL ARTS? A: Just to name a few, Zanele Muholi, Ester Mahlangu and Ayanda Mabula.
Q: WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES HAVE YOU ENCOUNTED THUS FAR IN THE ARTS INDUSTRY AS A SELF-TAUGHT ARTIST? A: Adapting to technological change, encouraging new talents to aspire for greatness, logical thinking sometimes, avoiding ambiguity and funding does not always execute plans I have for my art. Q: WHAT WOULD YOU CHANGE IN THE DIGITAL ARTS INDUSTRY THAT OTHER ARTISTS COMMONLY DO THAT YOU DO NOT CONFORM TO? A: The industry already had clarity of intention to make things happen the way they do, and I feel that artists should support each other to improve the quality of transparency or purity in the arts industry.
@i_am_leon101
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EAD “In My Bag” Essential Review by Mercedez Dlikilili. EAD Tissue Oil Lip Balm It’s always imperative to have your lips protected regardless of the season. I first discovered EAD Tissue Oil through my mom and started recommending it to my friends and they loved the brand. I was highly ecstatic when I discovered that not only do they have skincare products but also have essentials such their lip balm. Because it contains ingredients such as tissue oil and mineral oils, this helps prevent your lips from being dry and cracking to maintaining everlasting lip moisture. Available at Edgars, R14, 95
EAD Tissue Oil Hand &Nail Lotion Having to search for the right hand cream can be stressful at times. EAD Tissue Oil however has the affordable right hand cream; EAD Tissue Oil Hand and Nail Lotion cures dryness by allowing moisture penetrate deep through your skin making your hands return to its moisturized youthful feel. Its unique blends of different oil ingredients help improve skin hydration in your hands and nail protection from breaking easily. Available at Edgars, R19, 95
EAD Tissue Oil Serum I definitely recommend this EAD Tissue Oil Serum if you have dark marks that you’d want to remove or just want to maintain having good skin. My niece, who is now 6 years old, has such sensitive skin in which she would literally have dark marks from just a mosquito bite. Therefore, with the help of EAD Tissue Oil, within 3 days one could see a difference and skin improvement. Definitely a must have in your bag to keep your skin moisturized and healthier. Available at Edgars, R19, 95
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Make up artist
ISABELLE MAHEALANI
AT THE YOUNG AGE OF 12 Y/O, Isabella was convinced that she would become a professional makeup artist. “I remember asking my mom if I could start to wear makeup, so she brought me to the store and got me clear brew gel and told me I could use it as mascara. From there, the majority of the makeup education had to be self-taught; as my mom wasn’t really a makeup wearer herself.” By the time she was 15, she was doing makeup for events and still to this day.
From a homegrown and based artist in Seattle, now at 20 y/0, Isabella has become an independent MUA and hairstylist in her own brand, Isabella Mahealani Hair & Makeup Artistry LCC, in which has her traveling from Portland to Kaui to perform her work on clientele. Creating mind-blowing hair and makeup designs have always been a passion for Isabella. “I grew up about an hour north of Seattle and my mixed-race background of Hawaiian-Chinese-East Asian- Caucasian has heavily influenced my designs as a modern Asian American.” Loving artistry and creativity allowed Isabella to be intrigued in Avande Garde makeup artistry. Makeup artists are always inspired by other visual artists to help
create their looks; for Isabella, being obsessed with different eras, makeup styles, application techniques and art pieces inspire her the most. “I’m constantly changing my fascinations. Currently, I’m a huge fan of Salvia from the designer team Facial Matter. Additionally, I have always been inspired by the 90’s anime and Harajuku street style.”
Makeup is a tool to enhance the beauty that is already there, but for some, it is a tool used as a mask to hide behind and for others it is a tool for self-expression. “It’s a pretty awesome experience working with my clients as they embrace the good makeup application and how amazing it makes them feel. Smiling, a little hop in their step and them taking billions of selfies is a great sign!”
As a creative, collaborations are always important as they bring upon growth and exposure. “I’m so eager to assist masters of the industry in the near future. I’d love to learn from Vee Neil, Rick Baker .P. Louise Academy, David Marti, oh the list goes on. If anyone is looking to collaborate, please give me a call haha.” With her effervescent, creative and hardworking personality, we are definitely excited and highly inspired by Isabella and so ready to experience her taking over the arts industry with her own twist.
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