DECEMBER 2012
PIE
BAKE - TASTE - ENJOY
PIE CHART: Favourite filling
PIE TALK: Stephen Hallam
RECIPE: Made in Wales
FEATURE: The rise of the fusion pie
CONTENTS
EDITORIAL
PIE talk: What it takes to make an award-winning pie - Page 3 Feature: Rise of the fusion pie - Page 4 Something to drink sir? - Page 5 PIE chart & review - Page 6 Recipe: Made in Wales - Page 7
Welcome to the first ever issue of PIE.
@PiemagUK PIE Magazine pinterest.com/piemaguk
Ross Clarke John Higgs Our man in Our man in the field the kitchen “Quality local ingredients inspired me to make what I hope could be a Welsh classic.”
“It’s great to see how the pie world is evolving as new great flavours are coming through.”
In this month’s issue we go inside the industry and reveal the latest trends and developments, and find out what it takes to be a true PIEoneer We hope you bake the recipe, taste the best of the reviews and enjoy PIE’s innaugral issue. PIE Team
Jack Palfrey Kurren Tatla Our man Our man on about town the inside “I’ve been liaising with the locals to find out their preference when it comes to filling.”
“Speaking to Stephen Hallam gave me a refreshing insight into the competitive world of pie making.”
PIETalk - Stephen Hallam of the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association
B R I T I S H
P
IE caught up with Stephen Hallam, one of the organisers of the British Pie Awards, to find out exactly what it takes to bake the greatest pie. PIE: What exactly do you look for in a pie? Stephen: First of all, does it have a ‘wow factor’? There are a variety of factors we take into consideration. How much juice has boiled out of the pie, possibly affecting the appearance? This is not always a bad thing, but it can sometimes be too much, which means it may burn or go around the base of pie. We look at the degree of bake on the bottom. Pies are generally baked in the oven, maybe in foil maybe not, but a good sign of craftsmanship is based on how well the pie is baked. PIE: It sounds like a very specific process… Stephen: Keep in mind the pie hasn’t even been cut yet! Judges then sniff the pastry and ask themselves whether or not it’s been burnt. The nose is one thing that will pick up on that. Then the judges cut the pie, listening to the pastry. Is it soft? Is it firm? We also take in the aroma of the
P I E
pie as it’s cut. Is the pie baked evenly all the way around? There is no such thing as semibaked. If it hasn’t baked evenly then it shows that the maker doesn’t understand their oven. With regards to the filling, a pie can be filled too much as well as under filled. PIE: So what do the w i n n e r s receive? Stephen: The winners of each category receive £100, and there are 18 categories in total. The overall winner receives £1,000. Our aim is to help people enter pies so they can gain some media coverage. Journalists at the event will go away and write about the product, and it creates quite a good buzz. It’s for this reason that it’s a trade competition, not for consumers. That could just sink us, but some way or other we’ve got to try and control this. If we can get the trades making better pies that will filter down to consumers anyway. PIE: Why do you think pies
“The master baker is in control of his oven!”
A W A R D S are so popular? What is their attraction? Stephen: They’re iconic. It’s…just so British. There isn’t any other country in the world that has such a following for
pies; they are so revered in this country. Anyone can make a pie, but not everyone can make a great pie. There are all sorts of fillings and pastries.. It’s quite fascinating because you can put it all together, but then you have to bake it! All too often one may see pies where people think the pastry is baked but when you cut it, oh dear oh dear. As the saying goes, ‘It’s the oven that runs the bakery’. You cannot bake any faster than your oven allows. That is why the master baker is in control of his oven! There are so many fascinating variations, and the Pie Awards celebrates the excellence of pies.
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FUSION PIES Exploring the cutting edge of the British pie.
B
rought to Northern Europe by the Roman Empire and adopted wholeheartedly by the ancient British, we like to think of the pie as something honed and sculpted in our homeland. Although almost all cultures have produced some form of pastry, the pie ‘case’ recipe has become a landmark of British food.
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However as with all aspects of British food foreign influences have crept in over the years. Is this experimentation with new flavour combinations from different cultures bringing the humble pie into the 21st century? Or are these exotic new styles trampling on a British tradition?
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A recipe spearheaded by Michelin starred Indian restaurant Benares, as part of the ‘Taste of Christmas’ event, the Chicken Tikka pie is one of the most well known fusion pie recipes. The delicate spices of the yoghurty chicken marinade combined with a soft and flaky pastry case seems to be the perfect example of East meets West, with no one flavour or texture dominating the dish.
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A more contemporary example of a fusion pie is the Pieminster bakery’s Jerk Chicken Pie, a blend of Jamaican Jerk-barbeque style chicken and a rough puff pastry lid. Normally served on it’s own, the chicken is turned into a pie filling with the addition of coconut milk and kidney beans.
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Many chefs and piemakers consider recipes like this to be at the cutting edge of British cuisine. Perhaps they are encroaching on the popularity of the ‘traditional’ British pie, but they are certainly more of an evolution than a revolution.
Chicken Tikk
“It’s absolutely beautiful. Every single spice tingles through the meat and cooks wonderfully into an eccentric dish of something so odd and yet so right.” Pepper and Sherry food blog describing Benares’ Chicken Tikka pie.
Something to drink Sir?
S
electing the perfect acompanying beverage for any pie is quite a taxing task in itself, so when the requirement this week was to find the drink that would compliment two fusion pies the office spiralled into panic After many arguments and plenty of tears we finally reached a unanimous decision on a drink that suits both pies perfectly.
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Rhymney Bitter
Type: Classic Bitters / Pale Ales ABV: 4.5% A complex Welsh beer which uses four types of Warminster malt. Its rich taste and citrus flavour goes well with any type of chicken; spicy or otherwise.
Alternative: Tired of conforming to the cliché of spicy food and beer? Go alternative with an icy mint mojito to give your evening meal a refreshing twist.
ka Masala, ready for the pie.
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THE CAPITAL’S CHOICE South Wales has a rich heritage when it comes to pies.
Steak & Ale
Chicken
Chicken & Mushroom
Steak & Kidney
The Welsh capital now boasts over 60 independent bakeries in the city and surrounding areas as well as being home to many household names including Clark’s Pies, which has been selling its iconic pies since it opened its doors in 1909. Peter’s Pies, a company which started as a small shop in Merthyr Tydfil in the 1950’s now serves 13,500 customers annually, including crowds at both the Millennium and Wembley Stadiums. With such a fantastic history in pie making (and eating) PIE took to the streets of Cardiff with the aim of granting one pie filling the honorary title of the capital’s favourite.
As the PIE chart shows, steak & ale came out on top, proving the most popular with Cardiff residents by gaining 36% of the overall vote. Chicken & mushroom came a close second with 28% of the vote.
Vegetable
When asked the question of his favourite filling one resident remarked, “This should be a no brainer for any real Welshman, it has to be steak & ale, best enjoyed with a pint of Brains SA.” Who are we to argue with that?
PIE REVIEW The pie looks more than enough for a single diner with its puff pastry top escaping from the tin plate base. The pea and potato mash has been cleverly mixed to give a marbling effect and not a greyish mass. It is well combined with a glorious hint of pea in every bite.
• Brown’s Cardiff, Chicken & leek pie • Our pick of this year’s mince pies Sainsbury’s 6 Deep mince pies - £1.00 A sturdy pie. The pastry is not too crumbly but is rather bland. The filling will suit those with a sweet tooth and the leaf detailing on each pie is very festive.
Waitrose 6 Shortcrust mince pies - £1.49 A traditional looking pie with structured yet crumbly pastry. The fruity filling is just the right sweetness. These pies offer value for money.
As you cut into it, steam spurts out as the crisp, light puff sinks into the thick filling below. The chicken is cooked well and the pieces generous giving the pie a rustic feel. The mild tarragon sets off the creamy wine white sauce and al dente mushrooms. Overall, this pie leaves you satisfied but happy enough to be tempted by one of Brown’s delightful desserts. Good quality-good value food.
Tesco 6 Mince M&S 6 All butter mince Pies - £1.00 pies - £1.79 This pastry is very crumbly The buttery pastry is rich and a little over done. Filling and delicious. The filling lets is flavoursome but almost the pie down slightly and bitter. These pies look combined with the price, manufactured but they are misses out on our top spot. good value for money
MADE IN WALES Succulent Welsh lamb and leek pie with a crumbly pastry crust Method Pastry Sift the flour into a large bowl and add the butter and lard. Rub together with fingers until the mix resembles breadcrumbs. Try to keep everything as cool as possible. Slowly add enough cold water to make a soft dough that forms one large mass. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate until needed. Filling Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large deep frying pan. Add the lamb and fry until brown. Remove from the pan and set to one side. Add the remaining oil to the pan and fry the leek, carrot and celery. Cook on low heat until they begin to soften. Stir in the potato, lamb and rosemary mix well. Shake over the flour to coat the mixture. Turn the heat up and pour in the wine. Bring to the boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Finally, add the stock and cover with a lid. Simmer for 30 minutes until the stock has reduced to form a thick gravy. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Pastry 400g Plain flour 110g Lard 100g Butter 1 Egg, beaten Filling 2 tbsp Olive oil 3 stalks cerery, diced 1 large welsh leek, sliced 1 large carrot, diced 1 large potato, cubed 500g Welsh lamb shoulder, cubed 175ml Red wine 500ml Lamb stock 2 tbsp Plain flour 3 stalks Rosemary, chopped 1/2 tsp Dried thyme Salt & pepper For a veggie alternative, replace lamb with 1 extra potato and 120g laverbread and use vegetable stock.
Baking Meanwhile Preheat the oven to 180째C/350째F/Gas mark 4. Remove the dough from the fridge. Tip it out onto a floured surface and knead lightly for 30 seconds. Roll out two thirds of the dough and line the base and sides of a large pie dish. Fill with the cooled lamb mixture.
For a lighter option, just make a pastry top by halving all the pastry ingredients.
Roll out the remaining dough and lay over the pie. Crimp the edge to seal and trim the excess. Use the beaten egg to glaze by brushing all over. Make a small cut in the top to allow the steam to escape when baking. Put the pie into the oven and cook for 30-40 minutes until the pastry is golden brown. Remove from the oven and serve with seasonal vegetables.
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JANUARY 2012
PIE
BAKE - TASTE - ENJOY
FEATURE: the fall of a giant
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