SOUTH WALEs DISCOVER WHAT’S ON YOUR DooRSTEP
yma / here
discover
see
eat
do
BE A TOURIST IN YOUR OWN CITY
The secrets of Castell Coch
Tracking produce from farm to fork
wandering the four falls trail
issue one / Autumn 2019
what to DISCOVER
croeso WELCOME With the first edition of Yma, we invite you to discover Cardiff like you’ve never seen it before, learn the secrets of Castell Coch, walk the trails of waterfall country and discover the delicious food offerings of the Gower Peninsula from farm to fork. Come and discover what’s on your doorstep. Contents We’ve travelled a fair bit for our autumn issue; here’s what we had to say. PRIYANKAA / page 2 “It’s amazing what you can learn about a place. I had no idea Cardiff had so much to offer.”
ELISSA / page 3 “Ending the Forest Trail with a cuppa and a shortbread in the castle's tearoom was ideal.”
PETER / pages 4-5 “I expected a hard time finding local produce in an area as tiny as the Gower. How wrong I was.”
CHELSEA / pages 6-7 “Walking the Four Falls Trail was tough, but the views were beautiful. Well worth a hike.”
SEAN / page 7 “Our meandering walk through Waterfall Country was breathtaking to say the least.”
be a tourist in your
own city You don’t have to travel halfway around the globe to have an adventure. Jamie Edwards from travel blog Explore With Ed shares his tips on how to discover Cardiff with fresh eyes. Visit museums and galleries When did you last visit your local museum or art gallery? Cardiff has lots that are free, including St Fagans National Museum of History and the Norwegian Church Arts Centre. Cardiff Castle also holds plenty of fascinating stories about the city. Did you know the fortress walls of the castle were used to shelter from bombs during the Second World War? Join a local tour or community Join a sightseeing tour, connect with Instagrammers, or hop on an opentop bus to explore the city. You'll be surprised by what catches the attention of tourists in places you pass everyday. Have you seen the Animal Wall near Cardiff Castle? Look out for lions, birds, monkeys and more. Get a taste of the food scene Head to Cardiff Market for hot-off-the-griddle bakestones, pies, cockles and laverbread. Wally’s Delicatessen in the Royal Arcade is a must-visit for local ales, cheeses and meats. Cafés like Madame Fromage and Barker Tea House are perfect for a cuppa and a slice of bara brith, a traditional fruit loaf served warm and buttered. Take the scenic route A cycle through one of the city’s parks or a picturesque river walk can transform your regular commute into a micro-adventure. For a trip to Cardiff Bay, swap the train or bus for a boat from Bute Park. The city-bay link runs year-round, weather permitting, with boats every hour.
Find more tips from jamie Website: www.explorewithed.co.uk Instagram: @explorewithed top Fresh bakestones from Cardiff Market
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what to see
the secrets of
Castell Coch
There's more than meets the eye to this castle. A short car ride away from the city centre or, if you don't mind a hike, at the end of a two-hour walk along the River Taff, you can cwtch up in the tearoom before enjoying the unexpected quirks the Red Castle has to offer.
R
ediscovered in the nineteenth century, Castell Coch is a mashup of medieval bricks, Gothic architecture and Victorian paintings. The main tower dates back to the thirteenth century. Then, it was the hunting lodge of Lord Gilbert de Clare, a fighter known for his ruthless actions during the Welsh War of 1282. Abandoned for 586 years, Castell Coch only regained attention when the third Marquess of Bute inherited it in 1868. In poor state, Castell Coch became the passion project of the marquis. He sought the help of his friend, the architect William Burges, and together they rebuilt the castle in a traditional style. Modern additions, such as a metal bell-pull in the entranceway and central heating, still made their way into the new plans. When Burges died suddenly in 1881, only the banquet hall was done. The workers replaced the Gothic Revival style developed by Burges with the rising Aesthetic movement. It's fair to say the marquis wasn't a fan and quickly lost interest.
The castle was once again forgotten. It was the Second World War that brought it back to life, used as an army barrack. This is one of Cori-Lee Blackman's favourite anecdotes about the castle. As custodian of the place, she knows a lot about it. On your next trip, don't stick to the ordinary tour, look out for these unexpected details. What should we look for when coming to Castell Coch? The view of the castle, particularly in autumn or summer, is striking from the other side of the River Taff. What’s an interesting historic fact about the castle? The earliest motte on this spot dates to a wooden structure from 1081, which was part of a ring of small fortresses around the north of Cardiff to protect William the Conqueror’s base at Cardiff Castle. Any hidden details that we should try to spot? Our drawing room has a secret door in the panelling to hunt out, and it’s decorated with the well-known Aesop’s Fables, first written down in Greece in the first century.
…into the woods…and out again… On the Sculpture Trail, stop when you see the wooden bears; walk to their right, where you'll be able to explore hidden caves.
When you're done with the castle tour, head for the ancient woods of Fforest Fawr. Keep an eye out for the animal sculptures.
From Cardiff, you can catch bus 26 or 132 to reach Castell Coch. By car, take the A470 and exit on the A4054 for Merthyr Road.
centre The main entrance to Castell Coch; Bottom LeftAn owl on the Sculpture Trail; Bottom right The woods of Fforest Fawr
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The Gower Peninsula tracking produce from farm to fork
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trip to the Gower Peninsula sums up domestic holidaymaking at its finest. People come from all over the country to stand in the rain gazing in awe at the vistas of Rhossili; to scramble about in the rockpools of Oxwich; and, when the day is done, to retreat back to the caravan, stopping in at the Mumbles to grab a chippy for tea. But while the nation may well be built on rain, caravanning and chip shops, indulging in that last one when on the Gower feels like a bit
of a waste. This tiny, 70-square-mile region offers a rich variety of its own food. Local businesses are producing it, selling it and, of course, serving it. Here’s how to find the best produce on this spectacular stretch of coast.
Produce - Gower Flour
The Gower Heritage Centre at Parkmill is an eclectic hybrid of a rural life museum and craft shopping centre. In among the melange of woodworking workshops, adventure activities and gypsy-esque craft
shops is their pinnacle feature – a water mill that’s been operating continuously for 860 years. Watch as local grains from Rhossili and Dunvant are milled down before your eyes, creating a homegrown flour that’s pretty much the same as it would have been nine centuries ago. You can test it out on the spot if you’d like, with bread making courses run in-house throughout the year. Or, buy yourself a bag of Gower Flour to take home with you when the weekend is over and done with.
left Neil Evans selling carrots in Swansea Market; bottom Signage at the Gower Heritage Centre; right Hoogah’s Reuben Pretzel
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what to EAT
Purchase - Pick your own
Swansea Market may lack the hipster eateries found in its Cardiff equivalent, although it more than makes up for it with the amount of hyperlocal food for sale. Greengrocer Neil Evans’s central stall sells a vibrant spread of vegetables grown in his own back garden on the Gower. Opposite him is Hugh Phillips Gower Butcher whose owner, Catherine Butler, prioritises low food miles and the use of local farmers. She sources most of her meat from nearby farms in Oxwich, Pontlliw and Weobley Castle.
Plate - Let it come to you
Hows and Wheres
Oxwich Bay
Sure, you can see Gower produce being made at Parkmill. You can even buy your own at Swansea Market. But what good are either if your caravan has no oven? That’s where Hoogah comes in. A 15-minute walk from Swansea city centre will get you to this Welsh-Skandi restaurant. Hoogah is the phonetic interpretation of the Danish word hygge, meaning cosy, much like the Welsh word cwtch. It’s a concept done justice within. Three Cliffs Bay, a few miles from the restaurant, is the source of the beef used in their Reuben Pretzel. Or, try a Gower themed pizza. It’s topped with beetroot hummus, feta and locally grown greens.
In case you don’t have a caravan, here’s where to stay when visiting the Gower Peninsula Travel Located halfway along the South Gower Coast, Oxwich Bay lies off the A4118, which links to all sides of the peninsula by car or bus. Catch the 114, 116 or 118 to get to Oxwich from Swansea Bus Station. Services run every day. Accommodation Oxwich Bay Hotel Sat only a stone’s throw from the beach, this hotel has rooms from £81 per night and also offers cosy cottages and static homes.
By PETer Wolinski
Activities Gower Coast Adventures Take a boat trip to Rhossili Bay, seeing the coastline and marine wildlife along the way. It's a summer activity only. Oxwich Castle A short walk from the hotel will get you to Oxwich Castle, a Tudor manor built on the site of an ancient fortification. Open year-round. Food and Drink Beach House If you’re feeling fancy, book this Michelin starred restaurant where a three-course lunch costs under £30. Book ahead as they’re always busy.
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what to do
wandering the
Four Falls Trail Find out what happened when we took a writer on a hike in waterfall country one wild autumn morning...
A
dmittedly, the crash of falling water is doing little to ease the discomfort of my full bladder. Nor is the trickle of countless streams, splashing my hiking boots and dripping in a way that makes me wish the rudimentary car park was equipped with a portaloo. The heavy rainfall of the past week has left a mark on waterfall country; the air is rich with the scent of damp soil and stripped bark. It mixes well with the sharp tang of cold that makes my breath cloud. I tuck my hands deep into my pockets, toes scuffing loose stones. I continue my search for a public toilet. Unsurprisingly, I fail. Instead, I admire the branches of the trees above. Without leaves, they look like veins running through a sky plump with snow waiting to fall. The Four Falls Trail in the Brecon Beacons National Park is waymarked and starts at Gwaun Hepste. The car park lies on an unnamed road; I followed directions for Ystradfellte and stumbled upon the trailhead. The circular route visits Sgŵd Clun-Gwyn, Sgŵd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, Sgŵd y Pannwr and Sgŵd-yr-Eira. It’s a journey of around four hours for the casual explorer.
By Chelsea Davies
Expect steep inclines, sheer drops and ground that’s slippery underfoot on the best of days. But for those that enjoy rewarding hikes with spectacular views, the Four Falls Trail does not disappoint. Sgŵd Clun-Gwyn, the first fall, is reached after half-hour. The area is forested with a winding river that joins the Afon Mellte. I take the high ground to the second and third falls, an hour muddy shrubs and walk from Sgŵd ClunThe roar of shallow streams. Gwyn. These are my the waterfall is There’s something favourites; Sgŵd y deafening, like whimsical about Pannwr is a curtain of some hungry beast the Four Falls Trail, white, gushing water. It is awakening, even more so about reminds me of Niagara stretching Sgŵd Isaf ClunFalls in miniature. The Gwyn. The roar of the waterfall is winter sun casts what leaves remain deafening, like some hungry beast on the trees in shades of gold that is awakening, stretching. A raging smoulder like embers. The Afon torrent cuts through three shelves Mellte swirls and eddies, a powerful of rock, guided by a gorge. cascade of freezing water that I hear each waterfall long before curves beyond my view down the I see it. The same is true of the final narrow neck of the valley. fall on-route; Sgŵd-yr-Eira. A little way upstream from Sgŵd After a steep hike, my feet find y Pannwr is Sgŵd Isaf Clun-Gwyn. a path over the slick stones of The path is narrow and slick with the river bed to walk behind the mud. Tree roots run like spindly imposing face of the waterfall. fingers, reaching through the
Top right Sgŵd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, the third waterfall on the trail; Bottom right The walk from Gwaun Hepste is bordered by a forest
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what to discover
3
South Wales days out for casual explorers
A keen walker with over two decades of orienteering experience, Andy Lamb lets us in on his favourite walks for those new to trails in South Wales.
Good balance is needed. More often than not, I grip the damp walls undercut by Sgŵd-yr-Eira. Moss grows abundantly; it’s spongy beneath my fingers. The water is so cold, the kiss of the crisp air makes the river steam. The chill eventually draws me away, though the walk back to the path is tough. My knees are shaking when I emerge, gasping for breath. Yet, glancing behind, I’m struck by the unfolding view of waterfall country. The Four Falls Trail hides beneath the valley that stretches on for miles and miles. Still, the roar of each waterfall rings loud in my ears long after I’ve left this land. Now, where to find a toilet…
Waterfall Country An hour away from Cardiff, the tumbling waters of this landscape offer a spectacular hike through forested valleys in the heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park. Visitors can choose from lots of waymarked walking trails. pen y fan Popular with both hardcore and casual climbers, this is the highest peak in South Wales. It's a steady climb that can cause a bit of calf-burn, but rewards with epic scenery from all angles when you make it to the top. Dan-yr-Ogof These caves offer an exciting underground experience. The caverns have rock formations that direct cascading waterfalls towards lakes hundreds of metres below the surface.
Brecon Beacons
Swansea
Castell Coch
Gower
Cardiff
Th is is wh ere we went th is season. Why not come with us?
yma About
A destination is not just a location. It’s the sights and smells. It’s the people you meet. It’s the food you taste and the experiences you make. A destination is the sum of all. Yma explores South Wales. It’s for those who want to experience this epic, wild and rugged region that stretches from coast to peak. From Cardiff to Carmarthenshire, Monmouthshire to Merthyr, Yma will lead you there.
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