Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine September 2014

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SEPTEMBER 2014 NO. 228

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

2014 - 2015: PLAN NOW! TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM

See story on page 23

SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com

SEPTEMBER 2014 • NUMBER 228 KLUND

Santo Domingo

DEPARTMENTS

Shopping deals & sand dunes . 20 INGA BEITZ

Crossing with Crew A hand or a hindrance? ........ 14

Info & Updates ...................... 4 Business Briefs ....................... 7 Eco-News .............................. 9 Regatta News........................ 12 Meridian Passage ................. 18 Seawise with Street............... 27 Sailor’s Horoscope................ 30 Island Poets ........................... 30 Seaweed Cartoon ................ 30

Compass Fiction ................... 31 Book Reviews...................34, 35 The Caribbean Sky ............... 36 Cooking with Cruisers .......... 39 Readers’ Forum ..................... 40 Calendar of Events ............... 41 Caribbean Market Place ..... 42 Classified Ads ....................... 46 Advertisers’ Index ................. 46

What Bugs You… … about the cruising life? ..... 33

Grenada recovers, and more ... 18

Ultra’s favorite conch-oction ...38

Conched Out!

Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting............................Shellese Craigg shellese@caribbeancompass.com

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings.

See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com.

We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998

It’s time to think ahead: what kind of sailing fun will you have this coming season? On the cover, it’s racing action at Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, snapped by Tim Wright Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy

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‘Caribbean Compass is a useful and accessible boater’s rag — information-packed and unbiased.’

— Readers’ Survey 2014 respondent

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Ten Years After Ivan

Editor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@vincysurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com

SEPTEMBER 2014

CHRIS DOYLE

Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines.

Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, compass@vincysurf.com, www.caribbeancompass.com

Info & Updates St. Lucia Reintroduces Immigration Cards St. Lucia’s Ministry of Tourism, Heritage & Creative Industries has announced the reintroduction of Immigration cards for yachting visitors.

The Ministry reports: St. Lucia is fast becoming the yachting destination of choice for many. The added value that the yachting sector brings to the island’s tourism industry is evidenced by the range of employment opportunities available, economic benefits and linkages formed with other sectors. Therefore, effective monitoring of

the sector is imperative.

The Government of Saint Lucia therefore wishes to advise that effective September 1st, yachtspersons will be required to complete an Immigration card upon entry into St. Lucia. This will allow the Tourism Industry and Immigration Department to accurately account for yachting and stay-over arrivals and better serve the needs of our valued tourists.

The new card must be completed by each individual on board a vessel, disembarking at the IGY and Marigot Bay Marinas, as well as at Vieux Fort, Soufriere and Ganter’s (Vigie Cove) bays.

We look forward to welcoming you to beautiful Saint Lucia and thank you for your cooperation in this worthwhile endeavor.

For further information contact: Cuthbert Didier, Maritime Consultant – Ministry of Tourism, Heritage and Creative Industries: (758) 720-9093 or cdidier@gosl.gov.lc Louis Lewis, Director of Tourism, Saint Lucia Tourist Board: (758) 452-4094 or llewis@stlucia.org Lucius Lake, Head of Immigration: (758) 456-3825 or luciusl@hotmail.com Samantha Charles, Tourism Officer – Ministry of Tourism, Heritage and Creative Industries: (758) 720-4618 or samantha.charles@govt.lc Seismic Survey Ship Now Off Curaçao Thanks to the Caribbean Safety and Security Net (www.safetyandsecuritynet.com) for the notice that the seismic survey ship Polar Duke is currently operating north of Aruba and Curaçao. All ships transiting north of Curacao and Aruba are advised that the Polar Duke will be conducting surveys in the area until September 15th.

The towed array is very large: 12 streamers 9,000 metres long, and 900 metres wide.

It is advised to give a wide berth of eight nautical miles astern, two nautical miles ahead and three nautical miles abeam as maneuverability of this ship is limited.

To see the survey vessel’s current position visit www.vesselfinder.com and type in “Polar Duke”.

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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A Message for Visitors to Mustique Simon Humphrey, Security Director, The Mustique Company, reports: Mustique is a private island that welcomes visitors from yachts all year round. The island has its busy periods every Christmas, Easter and August when the island’s population is comprised mainly of residential homeowners and guests renting villas. During these periods visitors from the sea will be asked to remain in the designated visitor area of Britannia Bay and Lovell Village. Tours of the island, provided by our island bus service, will be available at most times of year and people will be able to visit The Cotton House Beach Café and the Firefly Guest House together with Basil’s Bar and the shops in Britannia Bay. We aim to provide a service to all visitors and do our best to facilitate their wishes where we can.

Freedom to roam the island will be restricted to the quiet months of the year in May and June, September and October. Although very rare, in order to preserve the exclusivity of this private paradise island, Mustique Security reserves the right to restrict the island to visitors from time to time.

For more information contact simon@mustique.vc.

—Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page Grenada Coastguard Partners With Cruising Community As reported in Now Grenada (http://nowgrenada.com), Grenada’s cruising community and marine stakeholders attended a specially arranged question-andanswer session with the Grenada Coastguard at Prickly Bay Marina on July 24th.

The purpose of the initiative was outlined by the Managing Director of the Marina, Darren Turner. He stated, “The Grenada Coastguard is doing a great job and we are not fully convinced that the cruising community knows how and when to avail themselves of Coastguard services, or actually understand the high level of service the Coastguard is offering.”

In an effort to increase the cruising community’s awareness of the full range of services available to them, cruisers were invited to meet with members of the Coastguard’s regular and auxiliary team, in an informal setting to share information important to both parties. The meeting additionally allowed for the cruising community to get better acquainted with Coastguard personnel.

Coastguard Lieutenant Commander Griffith said in support of the initiative, “It’s vital that the gap between the Coastguard and the yachting community is bridged.

The Grenada Coastguard would like all to be able to put names to faces, as we see this as one way to break down barriers, making us more approachable, whilst allowing both Coastguard and cruising community to work together for the overall good of all. Although our priority must remain Search and Rescue, we also see it as vitally important that both communities support each other whilst coming to a better understanding of each other’s challenges.”

During and after the meeting, cruisers were encouraged to speak with members of the coastguard in attendance. Cruisers were also reminded that the Coastguard are also police officers and can therefore enforce the law on behalf of the community.

Turner expressed his pleasure at the attendance and participation of those present at the meeting, and was happy also to welcome other stakeholders from the marine and tourism sectors.

Commander Griffiths brought to the attention of those present, the Coastguard’s efforts to have Vigilant, a vessel donated to them, brought to a state of seaworthiness. The cost for repairs was EC$3,000. This was achieved at the meeting, with attendees donating EC$753.35 and Prickly Bay Marina donating a cheque to the Coastguard for EC$2,246.65, to meet the shortfall.

Forget the Map, Use the App! Laura Smith reports: Going ashore and finding your way around just got a whole lot easier for those with a smartphone or tablet. iLand Guide Worldwide is now launching its apps in the Caribbean. So far, Grenada, Carriacou & Petite Martinique and St. Lucia are up and running.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Filled with useful features such as listings for bars, restaurants, marinas, chandleries, shopping, activities, tours, lodging, special events and offers, the iLand Guide Worldwide App is a comprehensive guide to the islands. The App also shows users exactly where they are at all times so the days of getting lost are over.

—Continued on next page

SEPTEMBER 2014

Cruisers’ Site-ings • CARIBBEAN SAFETY & SECURITY NET ANNOUNCES ALERTS Thanks to a new design, folks really can “do it all” now on the Caribbean Safety & Security Net (CSSN) website — review history, make a report, and get alerts to stay current.

Now you can easily subscribe to CSSN e-mail alerts, and have all the new Incident Reports and News Items delivered right to your inbox instantly as they are posted, or whenever you want (daily, weekly or monthly). It could not be any easier to stay informed, and “know before you go”!

To sign up for CSSN e-mail alerts visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com/email-alerts-coming-soon.

• A CLOSER LOOK AT COLOMBIA Thinking of visiting the Colombian islands featured in last month’s Compass? Have a look at http://colombia.escapeartist.com/the-archipelago-of-san-andresprovidencia-and-santa-catalina.

Turks & Caicos Cruisers’ VHF Net Byron, a.k.a. Gringo, reports: My wife and I live in the Turks & Caicos Islands and are in the process of refurbishing a 40-foot catamaran. I just picked up a shortwave radio receiver and was trying to find some useful frequencies when I came across Compass’s Selected Shortwave Weather Sources on the internet (www.caribbeancompass.com/ssb_radio.pdf).

I wanted to mention that there is a local marine cruisers’ net here on Providenciales every morning, seven days a week, at 0730 EST (0830 AST) on VHF channel 72. We’ve noticed that a lot of the cruisers that come through here are not aware of the cruisers’ net here. The net is run by Bob Pratt, owner of the South Side Marina on Providenciales.

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(575) 436 3601 - 435 8009 - COLOMBIA

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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Win a Yacht Charter or a Resort Stay Please support education, school libraries and new books for Eastern Caribbean children by making a donation and entering the American Sailing Association/ Hands Across the Sea sweepstakes during the month of September.

You could win a yacht charter or a resort stay!

Details are at http://asa.com/hands-across-thesea.php and www.handsacrossthesea.net.

Martinique to Join OECS The application by the French Caribbean Overseas Regions to join the Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS) was on the agenda of the 59th meeting of the OECS Authority held in St. Vincent & the Grenadines on July 26th. The addition of the French islands would be an asset to the OECS’s plans to develop the yachting sector in the sub-region. Last year the OECS announced that an action plan would be developed “to create an enabling environment that will contribute to optimizing the economic benefits derived from yachting as a key niche in the region’s tourism industry”.

Programme Officer at the OECS Secretariat Dr Loraine Nicholas said, “In light of the archipelagic configuration of the OECS region, comprising small islands in close proximity to each other, and linked by arguably some of the best sailing waters in the world, yachting is a prime niche sector in tourism that can be developed and promoted jointly in the OECS.” The OECS is currently a group of nine English-speaking countries that promotes

cooperation in defense, international diplomacy, economic and sustainable development policies. As the islands gained their independence from Britain it became evident that there was need for a more formal arrangement to assist with their development efforts. So it was that the OECS was established. The OECS currently CHRIS DOYLE

—Continued from previous page Start by finding a WiFi location or 3G, visit the App store (Apple) or play store (Android) and download. The Apps can be used anywhere, even when you are offline, with no roaming fees.

Features include a detailed digital map of each island with icons that designate Points of Interest. The map first locates your current location and then shows you what is nearby. Next you can chart your destination from your location and now you have directions. Each POI has five images, making it easy to tap on a picture and find out more about the venue. Each POI has hot links for quick access to websites, e-mail and the phone number for your destination. Say you’re in Grenada and you want to go to Art Fabrik from Prickly Bay: simply search for Art Fabrik in the search bar or find it under the shopping label, go to the map, get directions, even call ahead to schedule a tour of their batiking process, all in one easy to use App. More islands are coming on stream, including Barbados, Antigua, St Martin and Trinidad & Tobago before the end of year. Each iLand Guide Destination will feature a Facebook page with local “appvertisers” news and offers.

For more information and free download visit www.facebook.com/ilandguidegrenada, www.facebook.com/ilandguidestlucia or www.ilandguidecaribbean.com.

comprises Antigua & Barbuda, the Commonwealth of Dominica, Grenada, Montserrat, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Lucia, and St Vincent & the Grenadines. Anguilla and the British Virgin Islands are associate members.

At the July meeting, the Heads of Government noted the progress made to date on the ongoing negotiations with Martinique, the state of preparedness of Guadeloupe to commence negotiations, and the request of St. Martin for associate membership of the OECS. The Authority expressed satisfaction with the progress made thus far with the negotiations in relation to Martinique’s accession and underscored its interest in an early and successful conclusion to the negotiations. The Authority therefore agreed that the sixtieth (60th) meeting of the OECS Authority would be the occasion for signature of the Agreement admitting Martinique to Associate Membership of the OECS. The sixtieth (60th) Meeting of the OECS Authority will be held in the Commonwealth of Dominica in November 2014.

Welcome Aboard!

In this issue of Caribbean Compass we welcome new advertisers Astilleros Amilibia of Spain and Puerto Rico, on page 17; KVR Energy Ltd of Trinidad, on page 10; the Saint Lucia Tourist Board, on page 26; and the World Creole Music Festival of Dominica, on page 23. Good to have you with us!

BUSINESS BRIEFS

14°04’32.72”N 60°56’55.63”W

Perkins Open House at Parts & Power Act fast! On the evening of Thursday September 4th, Parts & Power, the British Virgin Islands-based Caribbean distributor for numerous industrial and marine products and brands, are hosting an open event focused on their Perkins engine-based product range. Presentations and demonstrations will be made on numerous items, including: • Their range of Perkins-based industrial generators, designed for the Caribbean environment • Perkins marine engines ranging from 92HP to 225HP • JCB machinery with Perkins engines • The benefits of using Perkins OEM parts when servicing equipment The event is being hosted in conjunction with the BVI Chamber of Commerce, and is open to all comers. It is being held at Parts & Power’s premises in Port Purcell, Tortola from 1730 onwards.

For more information or to register for the event visit www.facebook.com/ PerkinsCaribbean or e-mail info@partsandpower.com.

Nestled on the north side of the stunning island of St. Lucia is Rodney Bay Marina, a premiere yachting destination. Considered one of the Caribbean’s leading centers for yachting and sport fishing. Excellent accommodations for yachts up to 285 feet and home to a 4.5 acre full-service boatyard – all in a well-protected hurricane-safe haven. ã

253 berths/32 megayachts slips up to 14 ft draft and 285 ft LOA

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Duty free high speed and in-slip fueling

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Complimentary Wi-Fi

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Onsite Customs and Immigration Clearance

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Marina Village with waterfront dinning, bars, banking, pool, supermarket, spa, taxi service, liquor and food provisioning, flower arrangements, showers & laundry services, ships’ chandlery, tour desk, car rental, in-house customs broker and concierge services

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Full- service Boatyard on site featuring 75-ton Marine Travelift, 40-ton self propelled boat trailer and 6,000 sq ft of paint/refit shelters

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CCTV surveillance, ISPS Compliant docks and 24-hr security

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Secure Hurricane Storage t: +1 758 572 7200 | f: +1 758 452 0185 e: rbm@igymarinas.com | w: www.igy-rodneybay.com

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Yacht Sector Representative on St. Lucia Tourism Board The Saint Lucia Hotels and Tourism Association (SLHTA) announced the election of two new members to its Board of Directors at its recently held Golden Jubilee Annual General Meeting. The new additions include Regional Public Relations Manager for Sandals Resorts International in the Eastern Caribbean, Dominic Fedee, as Representative for Large Hotels and Simon Bryan, Representative for the Maritime and Yachting Sector.

SLHTA Executive Vice President Noorani Azeez believes that the two new elected members bring a wealth of experience to their roles. He said, “We are thrilled to have both gentlemen on our team as they bring unique and relevant skill sets to our board as we seek to champion the cause of tourism development for the advancement of our lives in St. Lucia. The job before us is very important as the tourism industry continues to confront mounting challenges both from within and externally.”

Yacht Sector rep Simon Bryan (at left) The opportunity to join the SLHTA during its with Dominic Fedee Golden Jubilee is being seen as a real chance to contribute to the development of the island’s lead economic driver.

Simon Bryan, the manager of IGY Rodney Bay Marina, said he was certainly looking forward to making a firm contribution on behalf of the yachting sector and the wider tourism product. “I am very happy to have been elected as the Saint Lucia Hotel and Tourism Association Board Representative for the Maritime and Yachting sector, particularly as this year, the SLHTA is celebrating its 50th year.

—Continued on next page

BOATYARD, ST. LUCIA

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Curaçao Marine’s New Service for Venezuelan Clients Are you aware of the new service that Curaçao Marine has been offering? In cooperation with Curaçao Yacht Agency, Curaçao Marine can provide Venezuelan customers with a trusted and experienced personal project manager.

Curaçao Yacht Agency can pick up your yacht from any port in Venezuela and deliver it safely to Curaçao Marine for docking, maintenance and/or storage. The project manager will take care of your boat and keep you informed about progress at all times. Curaçao Yacht Agency can arrange all the work you would like to get done on your yacht. Curaçao Marine provides many technical services on the premises, such as engine repairs, antifouling, painting, woodwork, reconstruction, fibreglass work and lots more.

For more information visit http://curacaomarine.com or see ad on page 36.

SEPTEMBER 2014

Eco-Friendly and Zero Maintenance Floating Docks The solution for avoiding constant maintenance and pollution to our waters from docks made of corrosive steel and wood has arrived in the Caribbean and USA. The new type of floating and fixed dock system is composed of aluminium and a hitech surface formed of recycled plastic and rice hulls with the purpose of minimizing the environmental impact. It has been brought to the Caribbean by Astilleros Amilibia USL through their headquarters established in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Astilleros Amilibia is a Spanish company with more than 20 years of experience in the shipyard and dock market. Floating docks design and fabrication made with strong, long-lasting materials is one of the main services they provide. They can also supply an extensive variety of anchor systems, which makes their product able to adapt at any site conditions. Another feature offered is re-covering existing concrete fixed docks with an assemblage composed of the materials previously mentioned. In the same way, they can improve and update existing marinas.

Amilibia Marinas is prepared to cope with any size project, including large ones.

Each facility has its own features and solutions, and for their team of engineers and architects, it is a challenge for them to offer you the best and to make sure you enjoy the result of their work.

Amilibia’s headquarters in San Juan is the main contact in charge of providing facility and client service to any part of the USA and the Caribbean. They can be reached at (787) 635-6835 for service in Spanish, (787) 249-1200 for service in English, or via e-mail at amilibia.pr.usa@amilibia.com.

For more information see ad on page 17.

A member of the Yacht Haven Grande Collection, representing the finest megayacht marinas in the world.

—Continued from previous page The Maritime and Yachting sector plays a vital role in the St. Lucia tourism industry and I will endeavor to support this organization as it continues to develop this beautiful island as a world renowned tourist and yacht cruising destination.”

For more information on IGY Rodney Bay Marina see ad on page 7.

SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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Free ABC Islands Guide Now in Spanish Free Cruising Guides has announced the forthcoming release of the Cruising Guide to the ABC islands in Spanish. The Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic and the Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico are currently available in Spanish.

Catherine Hebson, Director of Free Cruising Guides, said that all 11 of the guides offered by Free Cruising Guides (www.freecruisingguide.com) will be offered in Spanish by the end of the year at a rate of approximately one per month. She said that the company is very committed to the users of the guides and is working hard in all areas to make the guides all that they can be.

The editor of Free Cruising Guide, Nathalie Virgintino, said that the commitment to make the translations was based on the many enquiries that the company is receiving, in particular from Spanish-speaking cruisers, to have the guides available in their native language. It is the company’s hope that with the advent of the Spanish editions that the download rate of the guides, currently at an annualized rate of more than 35,000 copies, will continue to increase.

For more information on Free Cruising Guides see ad on page 35.

Busy Summer at Jolly Harbour, Antigua Jo Lucas reports: Five years ago, three of the four original docks at Antigua’s Jolly Harbour Marina were demolished and replaced with purpose-designed concrete docks. A decision was taken to replace the last timber dock and rebuild a longer dock matching the others this summer. The contractors are making good progress, as can be seen from the photograph.

We are also upgrading the male showers facility following the renovations of the female showers in 2012.

Dredging the approach channel was finished last year and we will be installing a new lit buoyage system marking the 15-foot channel into the harbour before the new season commences.

We invite both returning and new yachtsmen to visit Jolly Harbour to enjoy our new marina facilities.

For more information visit www.jolly-harbour-marina.com.

Mercury Marine Launches New Multilingual Website Mercury Marine, the world leader in commercial and recreational marine propulsion and technology, has launched its new global website, www.mercurymarine. com, designed to enhance the consumer experience and provide a single online point of reference for all Mercury partners and consumers around the world.

“Delivering content in the native language of the site visitor is an important goal of this site redesign,” said Jon Mathews, Mercury Marine director of global branding. “We did extensive research to determine which languages represented more than 95 percent of all site traffic and are pleased to share Mercury Marine content in 13 languages.”

Stage one of the rollout was launched for the North American audience and provides content in English, Spanish and French. Mercury will continue rolling out localized content variations for audiences in Asia, Australia/New Zealand, Latin America and Europe throughout the year and into early 2015. Currently, site visitors in North America can access the new global website. All other visitors will have the option to view the North American site or be redirected to the current version of their country’s site.

The new global website from Mercury Marine will be optimized and easy to use on any type of device – tablet, mobile or desktop.

The new Mercury Marine global website includes a global dealer locator that enables the user to search for dealers throughout Mercury’s global dealer network.

For more information visit www.mercurymarine.com.

Grenadines Resort to Host Cousteau Dive Center The Ocean Futures Society reports: Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of the legendary Jacques-Yves Cousteau, will open a dive center on the resort island of Petit St. Vincent (PSV) in the southern Grenadines before the end of the year. Following extensive research of the reefs and aquatic life in the region by Jean-Michel and his team, he felt PSV would be a perfect place to share the wonders of coral reefs with guests and locals.

The newly established local company, Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Caribbean Divers, is owned and operated by Jean-Michel Cousteau and long-time colleague, Don Santee. The new dive center will provide guided dives as well as diving instruction and PADI certifications for all levels of divers. Both Jean-Michel Cousteau and PSV management view the dive center as the first step in an ongoing program to protect the waters and aquatic life in the region.

While the dive center will operate independently of the resort, they will share some facilities including the existing dock and boathouse. An on-staff naturalist/marine biologist will offer guided underwater tours and shoreside hikes with the goal of educating and entertaining guests about the area’s rich marine and terrestrial ecosystems. The naturalist will also work with local schools and NGOs on surrounding islands including Union Island, Carriacou and Petite Martinique to develop educational programs and projects.

“This project is personally very exciting for me,” said PSV’s owner Phil Stephenson.

“Like a lot of our guests, I grew up watching Jacques Cousteau’s specials every Sunday night on American broadcast television. It’s what got me into scuba diving as a kid and produced a lifetime love of the ocean. Having Jean-Michel and his staff help teach PSV’s guests about diving and the diversity of the undersea world is really a dream come true.”

In addition to the new dive center, PSV is also working with scientists at the Santa Barbara-based nonprofit Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ocean Futures Society to reduce the island’s environmental footprint and make operations “greener”. For example, the resort has replaced plastic drinking bottles with reusable glass bottles with sealed tops, installed a wastewater treatment plant to reduce the discharge of untreated waters, and planned a retention pond for natural filtration using water lilies, tilapia fish and frogs which will assist in natural mosquito reduction.

PSV will continue to grow as much of their own fruits and vegetables on island as possible, rainwater will be harvested from rooftops for irrigation and a composting system will be put into place. These and many other planned initiatives will help reduce the island’s environmental footprint and create a beautiful and productive landscape.

For more information visit www.oceanfutures.org and www.petitstvincent.com.

Caribbean ECO-News

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Sargasso Weed Brings Unusual Species to Mustique The Sustainable Grenadines Project (SusGren) reports: A tiger shark was found floating dead on July 29th among large quantities of Sargasso seaweed in Rutland Bay, part of the Mustique Marine Conservation Area.

An unusual occurrence in the Grenadines and in the Caribbean region, and indeed globally, the shark was found by sea turtle researchers during an early morning patrol and was determined to be an 11-foot long female tiger shark, with no visible injuries.

—Continued on next page

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Montserrat Introduces Vessel Monitoring System Montserrat has become the smallest coastal country in the Wider Caribbean Region to embrace cutting-edge vessel monitoring system (VMS) technology to support the management and protection of coastal and marine resources. The initiative is being delivered by the Government of Montserrat in partnership with Succorfish, a provider of global marine and maritime monitoring systems.

Succorfish VMS technology has been designed to allow three- to ten-metre fishing vessels, like those operating in Montserrat, to accurately record, monitor and map their exact location to within two metres from every minute to every hour. It significantly enhances fisheries management activities by supporting legal frameworks for spatial planning, protecting areas of conservation by deterring illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing, and improving safety at sea for inshore and offshore fishing vessels.

As well as improving fisheries data collection and information systems required for future policy, it also supports the 2011-2020 National Sustainable Development Plan that recognizes the importance of maintaining healthy marine ecosystems as a foundation for socio-economic development in the future.

Tom Rossiter, Head of Marine at Succorfish, commented, “This cost effective inshore VMS system uses innovative mobile phone technology and offers a highly efficient and effective tool for governments like Montserrat to plan responsible fisheries management. The data collected is invaluable and this project will form the foundation of a larger data collection programme that embraces next generation technology and engages other like-minded governments in the Caribbean.”

Alwyn Ponteen, Chief Fisheries Officer for Montserrat, added, “We are embarking upon a very exciting project and one that will allow Montserrat to meet its international and regional obligations in improving its fisheries management, accurate data collection and information sharing. As a result, at national level, the socioeconomic benefit of fisheries will be recognised for its important contribution to food security and nutrition, livelihood, employment, trade and for monitoring future fisheries management.”

SEPTEMBER 2014

Barbuda’s New Rules for Marine Sustainability As reported on newswatch.nationalgeographic.com, on August 12th the Barbuda Council signed into law a sweeping set of new ocean management regulations that zone their coastal waters, strengthen fisheries management, and establish a network of marine sanctuaries. This comes after 17 months of extensive community consultation and scientific research supported by the Waitt Institute. With these new policies, the small island of Barbuda has become a Caribbean ocean conservation leader and global role model.

The regulations establish five marine sanctuaries, collectively protecting 33 percent (139 square kilometres) of coastal area, to enable fish populations to rebuild and habitats to recover. To restore the coral reefs, catching parrotfish and sea urchins has been completely prohibited, as those herbivores are critical to keeping algae levels on reefs low so coral can thrive. Barbuda is the first Caribbean island to put either of these bold and important measures in place.

“This will definitely benefit the people of Barbuda, and Antigua as well. No part of this is meant to hurt fishers.

It’s the reverse — ensuring that they have a livelihood that will last in perpetuity,” said Arthur Nibbs, Chairman of the Barbuda Council and Antigua & Barbuda’s Minister of Fisheries.

The coastal zones and fishing regulations reflect stakeholders’ priorities and are the outcome of a community-driven, science-based, and consensusseeking process aiming to balance current and future needs to use ocean resources. “This type of management must become the status quo. It has been an honor to support the people of Barbuda as they took decisive steps to conserve their reefs and fisheries, and I look forward to supporting similar efforts elsewhere,” said Ted Waitt, Founder Chairman of the Waitt Institute. Creation of the new regulations occurred under the umbrella of the Barbuda Blue Halo Initiative, a collaboration among the Barbuda Council, Government of Antigua & Barbuda, Barbuda Fisheries Division, Codrington Lagoon Park, and the Waitt Institute.

Also included in the regulations is a two-year fishing hiatus for Codrington Lagoon, the primary nursery ground for the lobster and finfish fisheries. The lagoon is one of the Caribbean’s most extensive and intact mangrove ecosystems, and home to the world’s largest breeding colony of Magnificent Frigatebirds.

Additionally, at the request of local fishers concerned with reef damage, use of fishing nets will be prohibited in 16 percent (70 square kilometres) of the coastal waters including anywhere within 20 metres of a coral reef. Permits will be required prior to any damage to mangroves or seagrass.

To further protect sensitive habitats, anchoring by visiting boats will be limited to four anchoring zones.

Most fishermen support the regulations. “Something has got to be done. Things are out of hand where fishing is concerned,” says Larkin Webber, elder Barbudan fisherman. “These regulations should have happened 40 or 50 years ago. It’s overdue.”

For more information visit http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com.

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 10

R. HOFLUND (2)

—Continued from previous page Tiger sharks are highly susceptible to fishing pressure and are officially considered by scientists as “near threatened”. This means that their population could face extinction in the near future. They have extremely low rates of reproduction and this female was not carrying any young.

SusGren and Mustique are currently checking with shark experts about the possible causes of death, especially to determine whether the death might be linked to the influx of seaweed that is currently affecting the Eastern Caribbean. This is a repeat of the influx of pelagic sargassum seen in 2011, which researchers linked to a bloom in seaweed in the North Equatorial Region carried by currents across the Tropical Atlantic. The 2011 climate was unusual and scientists speculate that the influx of seaweed might be linked to global climate change.

This is an added pressure on the survival of sharks, which are Sargasso victims? A female tiger shark (above) washed ashore in the Grenadines.

Also stranded (at right) was a juvenile Olive Ridley sea turtle already threatened with extinction given heavy pressure from fishing. Their poor public image and the myths about their danger do not help. Sharks are in fact vitally important to the marine environment because they are an apex predator and they play an important role in keeping an ecological balance by preying upon sick and weak fish.

In recognition of their important role in the environment, there is increasing momentum for shark conservation in the Caribbean. In May of this year, the British Virgin Islands established a shark sanctuary throughout their entire marine area, protecting all shark species and prohibiting the trade and sale of shark products.

They join The Bahamas and Honduras as leading countries in our region to take this important and much needed conservation action to fully protect all sharks.

As part of St. Vincent & the Grenadines’ commitment to the Caribbean Challenge

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Initiative in support of marine conservation, the government has undertaken to participate in regional shark protection by May 2015.

Following the discovery of a large tiger shark washed ashore on Mustique, the following morning brought a juvenile Olive Ridley Sea Turtle to the island, believed to be the first-ever record of the species in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. At a little larger than the size of the palm of an adult’s hand, it’s rare to encounter such a juvenile turtle. The Coordinator of the Mustique Turtle Project explains, “Normally a turtle of this size would be out at sea, floating in rafts of sargassum seaweed. But the current influx of sargassum is bringing new findings to our shores.”

The Olive Ridley is one of six species of sea turtle found in the Caribbean, but it has never before been seen in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. The species is officially considered endangered at the global level, meaning it faces a high risk of extinction.

While the influx of seaweed might seem like a nuisance to some people, it is in fact an essential habitat for marine life, including being a critical nursery habitat for sea turtles, sharks, rays, eels and fish. This highlights the need to be careful not to damage vulnerable sea creatures if handling the seaweed.

SusGren advises that ideally the seaweed should be left on the beach as it provides important nourishment to the sand and to coastal sea life. Any essential beach cleaning is best done by hand with rakes so as not to damage marine life. Washed of salt, the seaweed makes excellent fertilizer for gardens. These rafts of seaweed are more typically encountered in the Sargasso Sea, located off Bermuda. Reflecting the importance of this habitat and the need for conservation of the high seas, several governments came together in Bermuda in March this year to sign the Hamilton Declaration on Collaboration for the Conservation of the Sargasso Sea. For more information contact susgrenpm@vincysurf.com.

Sandwatch in the Dominican Republic Sandwatch is a program in which children, youth and adults work together to scientifically monitor and critically evaluate the problems facing their beach environments. They then design and implement practical activities and projects to address particular issues, enhance their beach environment and build resilience to climate change.

The Dominican Republic participated in the first Sandwatch training workshop, in St. Lucia in 2001, and has been actively involved ever since. Since the launch of Sandwatch the Dominican Republic has involved more than 1,000 high school students in Sandwatch activities. Maria Mercedes Brito Feliz, Secretary General, Dominican Republic National Commission for UNESCO, says, “We try to empower each community to live with their beach, to care for their beach and to take ownership of their beach. It is like an emotional relationship — you learn to fall in love with your beach — and we motivate the students from this viewpoint. At the beginning it was more a case of students going to the beach to have fun: this is what young people like to do at the beach. But gradually after working with Sandwatch they understand the need to care for the beach and to look after it.”

She recalled how, in 2008, Sandwatch students working on Montero Beach on the south coast of the Dominican Republic noticed a significant increase in the turbidity (amount of sediment) of the seawater. They found this was because of the illegal construction of a jetty by a nearby hotel and reported the findings to the Department of Coastal & Marine Resources, which then halted the construction and fined the hotel.

For more information on Sandwatch visit www.sandwatch.org.

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CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2014

by Jerry Stewart

CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

Fun Class with Yellow Bird and Spirited Lady Tabasco was in hot pursuit of Category 5, but the modified Hobie 33 proved unbeatable and gained the title of Regatta Champion

SEPTEMBER 2014

Probably only a mad person would try to organize a regatta in August and in the tropics.

But didn’t it go well! Perhaps the threat of what became Tropical Storm Bertha kept the wise safely snugged down into their storm berths, so competitors in the yacht races at Carriacou Regatta were fewer this year than last. But despite that, 20 yachts were on the start line for the Doyle Sails Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race on August 1st.

This first race in the three-race series for yachts (the Festival also hosted separate series for Carriacou Sloops and open boats) started promptly at 0830 in a northeast breeze of ten to 12 knots. Despite Bertha being well clear, unstable conditions gave the fleet a 35-knot squall that shook up the slower yachts as they beat toward Gun Point. Those on a close reach, having cleared the Windward reef, were treated to a wild ride — and the sight of the catamaran Ned Kelly flying by in low Earth orbit. The wind soon settled and, as forecast, became steadily lighter. This, of course, favoured the faster yachts and left the rest of the fleet to drift to the finish.

David McDonald’s Jenneau 40, Banyan, was spectacular in the Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race. Sailing with full bimini and awning, Banyan caught both Tabasco (a Swan 39) and Bloody Mary (a Hughes 38) by the time the squall hit — despite having started five minutes later. Needless to say, Banyan achieved a magnificent first place in this race, beating last year’s top yacht, Andy Smelt’s Spencer 44, Yellow Bird, into fourth place. Frank Pearce’s Samadhi, a 47-foot schooner, recorded second and Dominic Weber’s Jenneau, Sanctus, a regular Carriacou Regatta competitor, placed third.

Two more races were held over the weekend. Saturday’s Race Two featured a start in Hillsborough and took the fleet to the south coast and around Frigate Island to finish in Tyrrel Bay. After a Sunday lay-day, Monday’s Race Three sponsored by Budget Marine went from Hillsborough around The Sisters and Jack a Dan to Tyrrel Bay. At the end of the series, the former Carriacou Regatta champion yacht Ned Kelly, sailed by the unique Don Marmo, was well and truly knocked off its Multihull Class perch by the exceptional Australian cat Jigsaw, sailed by Phil and Fay Atkinson, which recorded three wins.

Sailing in CSA Class, Richard Szyjan’s modified Hobie 33, Category 5, also took three bullets. Mike Bingley’s beautifully prepared Beneteau 38.5, Team Palm Tree Marine, was second in each race, having won last year. It is interesting that these vastly different yachts should correct out so closely under CSA ratings. Henry Crallan’s Swan 39, Tabasco, was skippered by Paul O’Regan in Henry’s absence, in order to maintain its rivalry with Jerry Stewart’s Hughes 38, Bloody Mary. Sorry, Henry; Bloody Mary captured third place in this class, although Tabasco was briefly in front as the old IOR dinosaurs clashed.

Fun Class was once again graced by a modern Classic: the Spirit 54 Spirited Lady sailed

by Suzy Stanhope. This class also hosted a classic Classic: Roy Broughton’s 12-ton Gauntlet, Guiding Light. Victory in the second and third races by Yellow Bird gave Andy Smelt first overall in Fun Class. Banyan sailed to second overall, and Samadhi third.

Overall, Category 5 was declared Regatta Champion.

The organizers of the Carriacou Regatta yacht races thank Island Water World for its previous 15 years of race sponsorship. Taking its place at short notice, numerous Carriacou businesses stepped in. These included Fitzroy Alexis, Carib Trace, Mavis, the Gallery Café, TMM Carriacou, the Lazy Turtle, Slipway Restaurant, Moringa Restaurant, Sundowners Bar, Windward Smoked Fish, Noel Supplies, After Ours, the Carriacou Animal Hospital and others too numerous to list here. Many thanks to you all for confirming the local support for this regatta!

Support from Mt. Gay ensured bottles of Extra Old Rum as prizes, plus rum in the goody bags.

Doyle Sails provided the goody bags and much more. Carriacou Marine gave the Committee Boat docking space, and Budget Marine sponsored a race day and great overall prizes.

This was a good regatta with fun competition on the water, a féte at the Lazy Turtle that was not to be missed, and a prizegiving at the Slipway Restaurant that was a ball. Hope to see you next summer!

Top to bottom: ‘Probably only a mad person would organize a regatta in August….’ Such a one is our reporter Jerry Stewart, who has been a driving force in the Carriacou Regatta yacht races f or years. This year, his Bloody Mary came third in CSA Class

ALL PHOTOS: ULRIKE HEIDENREICH

YACHT FUN IN THE SUMMERTIME!

REGATTA NEWS Island Water World is Now Title Sponsor for Grenada Week The Grenada Sailing Week Board has announced that Island Water World will be Title Sponsor of this international sailing regatta for the next three years.

For more information visit www.grenadasaililngweek.com.

Petite Calivigny’s ‘Mott Memorial’ Hobie Races CJ Martin reports:: Rain showers at dawn gave way to blue skies and strong winds, producing fast races and exciting finishes at the Petite Calivigny Yacht Club’s “2nd Annual Mott Memorial Hobie Cat Challenge” held in Grenada on July 20th.

The Mott Memorial Challenge was introduced last year when the PCYC purchased the Hobie cat previously owned by Mott Green, one of the original founders of the Grenada Chocolate Company, who sadly passed away last June. The PCYC plans to dedicate this race to Mott each year to honor his memory, with bars of Grenada Chocolate Company’s organic dark chocolate given as race prizes.

Congratulations to race winners Mike Bingley (first), Stuart Broom (second), and Dave Royce (third).

Bingley also took first place in last year’s Mott CONNIE MARTIN

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 12

‘Done deal!” Kelvin George (at left) and Marc DeCaul General Manager Kelvin George said that the Island Water World team was looking forward to building the event, expanding on the success of GSW 2014, which drew 36 entries from 13 different countries. The partnership between the GSW and the chandlery that “keeps you sailing” paves the way to develop this regatta into a first class international racing event.

Online registration for GSW 2015, to be held January 29th through February 3rd, is up and running and boats have begun to register, starting with GSW 2014’s Best Performing Yacht, Jaguar, the always competitive Tulaichean II/Team Palm Tree Marine and the well-sailed classic, The Blue Peter.

In 2015 the Racing, Racer Cruiser 1 (formerly Cruising 1), Racer Cruiser 2 (formerly Cruising 2) and One Design Classes (e.g. J/24s, should there be sufficient entries) may elect to fly spinnakers, taking the relevant rating according to their sail configuration. This decision will be made on registration at the beginning of the regatta and cannot be changed thereafter. The more relaxed Classic, Cruising (formerly Fun Class) and Multihull Classes will not fly spinnakers.

Ideas are flowing for a great entertainment line-up; details will be published on the GSW website as these are finalized.

competition (www.ifdsworlds2014.ca), which is being held in Halifax, Nova Scotia, August 15th though 24th, as this issue of Compass goes to press.

The four Virgin Islanders will compete against teams from around the world to qualify for the 2016 Paralympics to be held in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The USVI athletes are among the people competing in the regatta: 53 coaches and 176 racers representing countries around the world.

USVI team members competing include Jim Kerr, David Flaherty and Bobby Blackwell of St. Thomas, all of whom will race on a 23-foot Sonar sailboat, and Tony Sanpere of St. Croix, who will compete on a single-handed, 13-foot 8-inch sailboat in the 2.4mR Class. Olympic Star Class sailor John Foster of St. Thomas is coaching the team.

This is the first time the territory has sent a team to this international Paralympic qualifying event.

The International Association for Disabled Sailing is an affiliate member of the International Paralympic Committee and has been authorized by the International Sailing Federation to conduct sailing competitions for people with disabilities worldwide.

According to its website, the IFDS promotes all types of sailing for people with all types and degrees of disability. It works to bring people onto the water at every level of skill, competition and enjoyment.

Follow the team’s progress online at www.facebook. com/USVISailing.

ON THE HORIZON…

Left to right: Stuart Broom, Commodore John Whitsett, Dave Royce and Mike Bingley Memorial Challenge. The PCYC would like to thank all racers and spectators who came out for a fun and exciting day of match racing, and Le Phare Bleu Marina for providing the venue.

For more information on PCYC membership and upcoming events visit www.pcycgrenada.com.

USVI Paralympic Sailors Head for Canada Members of the USVI Paralympic Sailing team arrived in Canada recently to compete in the 2014 Highliner International Federation of Disabled Sailing world

Guadeloupe’s Triskell Cup 2014 The Triskell Cup Regatta 2014 will run from November 8th through 10th at Petit Cul de Sac Marin and Baie de Gosier, Guadeloupe. This is a well-attended, wellorganized and highly competitive three-day event that regularly attracts keen sailors from Antigua, Martinique and farther afield. A fleet of 50 boats is not uncommon.

There will be classes for cruising monohulls (Coastal Class) with an Osiris rating, racing monohulls (Racing Class) with a CSA rating, and cruising multihulls (Multi Class) with a Multi-2014 rating. Scoring will be extracted for Class 8 and Surprise as one-designs, Melges 24 and Figaro 2. The Organizing Authority reserves the right to amalgamate, cancel, divide, subdivide or rearrange classes at its sole discretion.

Eligible boats are encouraged to pre-enter online at www.triskellcup.com.

For more information see ad on this page.

—Continued on next page

WORLD CRUISING CLUB

the great events in the Caribbean regatta season, the Royal Southern Yacht Club has chosen Antigua Sailing Week as the event to feature the Royal Southern Inter-Yacht Club Challenge. We look forward to providing yacht clubs from around the world with some of the most challenging and exciting racing they will ever experience in the Caribbean’s idyllic conditions.”

Antigua Sailing Week 2015 takes place from April 25th to May 1st and is based at Antigua Yacht Club in Falmouth Harbour. Courses are predominately windward/leeward. Racing starts on Saturday, April 25th with the optional 54-nautical-mile Yachting World Round Antigua Race. Five days of round-the-buoys racing follow, with two races on some days and a lay day on the Wednesday featuring a great beach party at Pigeon Beach. Daily post-race social events and prizegivings take place on the lawn of Antigua Yacht Club. The week winds up with the final awards presentation on Friday, May 1st in the unique setting of historic Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour. On-the-water activities are complemented by excellent parties with a very Caribbean flavour.

For more information visit www.sailingweek.com.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

New Yacht Club Challenge for Antigua Week 2015 Antigua Sailing Week announces that the Royal Southern Yacht Club of Hamble, UK has issued a challenge to yacht clubs around the world to compete in the Royal Southern Inter-Yacht Club Challenge at Antigua Sailing Week 2015.

Yacht clubs are being challenged to take their own boats to participate in Antigua Sailing Week or to charter one of many racing boats or bareboats that are available for the event. While race charter boats may be a little more exciting, a fleet of one-design boats is available from Sunsail, which provides boatfor-boat racing action.

Gordon Cossar of the RSYC says, “We are really excited to get as many clubs as possible involved.

Following Antigua Sailing Week 2014, we realized that about 30 Royal Southern members had been at the final awards party and on returning to the UK we got

together to discuss a challenge. We have some early expressions of interest from several yacht clubs, so things are already shaping up well for an exciting addition to Antigua Sailing Week 2015.”

Chairman of the Regatta Organizing Committee, Kathy Lammers, says: “We are delighted that of all

SEPTEMBER 2014

The route choice for ARC+ Cape Verdes has proved popular with many ARC veterans keen to discover another archipelago en route to the Caribbean and is limited to 60 entries for the earlier start. Extra boat slips installed by the Las Palmas Port Authority has enabled the ARC to grow to a maximum of 225 to make the start this year.

From families with children to tough racers and cruising couples to Atlantic veterans, the ARC attracts individuals of all ages and from all walks of life. Eight boats to date will be sailing with children under the age of 16 onboard. Former Olympians and Volvo Ocean Race competitors will be sharing the same start line as amateur adventurers such as Andreas and Stefanie Werland who are sailing on their

yacht Charisma and celebrating their silver wedding anniversary. For some, sailing across the Atlantic is only the first step on an even greater adventure, with ten yachts sailing with ARC and ARC+ to reach the start line of their 15-month circumnavigation with World ARC. ARC 2014 is shaping up to feature one of the most diverse fleets in history with boats ranging from the 9.58 Marieholm 32E Thalassa to the super-maxi Farr 100 Leopard by Finland. Leopard is set to sail with a crew of 20 in ARC 2014, and has a considerable history of conquering Atlantic speed sailing records that will make her one to watch, albeit briefly, on this year’s Fleet Tracker.

Catamarans have proved extremely popular this year — 27 are entered to date for the direct route and 13 in ARC+, and Lagoon tops the overall “boatbuilders table” by some margin with 19 entries across both route choices. The Lagoon 450 is the most popular boat model entered so far with nine in total taking part. For monohulls, Oyster tops the table with 19 entries from across their range, followed by Beneteau, Jeanneau and Hallberg-Rassy.

As always, the ARC fleet represents almost every principal sailing nation. This year so far the fleet includes boats registered in Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Croatia, Denmark, Finland, France, UK, Germany, Japan, Iceland, Italy, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, New Zealand, Poland, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, Sweden, the USA and ten other nations, making 35 in total.

For more information visit www.worldcruising.com/arc.

TIM WRIGHT

—Continued from previous page Diverse Fleet for 29th ARC This November, the 29th Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) will set sail from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria across the Atlantic, bound for Rodney Bay, St, Lucia.

ARC sailors have a choice of routes with the introduction of ARC+ Cape Verde in 2013, and two starts are planned: ARC+ will depart Las Palmas marina on November 9th, followed by the ARC fleet on November 23rd. Interest continues to be exceptional for both ARC starts, with the traditional ARC route and ARC+ Cape Verdes expected to reach capacity once again in 2014.

PAGE 13

The Tricky Way to Get to the Caribbean

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 14

by Linn Charlotte Klund

Off we go!

Just a couple of weeks after the 2013 ARC departed from the Canary Islands, my boyfriend Paul and I went in the wakes of the participants heading for the Caribbean, facing a particular journey which in many ways turned into a nightmare. Accompanied by our English crewmember, we set sail for Bridgetown, Barbados, right before Christmas, preparing for a sunny holiday in choppy waters. After a few weeks with dull wind, the weather conditions now were ideal and as the tradewinds steadily filled our genoa they made the boat dance on the waves. (Leaving Las Palmas, both the genoa and the mainsail did the job together. We measured the average speed from using only the genoa to be 5.5 knots and were satisfied with that since neither of us were in a hurry, nor wanted to win any regatta.) However, there were other matters causing an uncomfortable atmosphere on board in the upcoming weeks.

Appearances can be deceptive Las Palmas apparently was a beloved place for hitchhikers searching for a way to go over to the Caribbean.

Our choice fell on the outgoing and sporty 68-year-old whom I’ll call “Timothy Douglas”, whose experience from numerous trips worldwide awakened our curiosity. By participating on three previous Atlantic crossings, he had also been collecting some knowledge about sailing, in contrast to the younger backpackers who hung around the marina area. Despite being quite a bohemian, he also had the typically English politeness and could be a real gentleman.

Unfortunately, he also had another side that was to be revealed offshore.

changed over the past 30 years since Tim had last crossed the Atlantic. Not only had the traffic increased, the sailing community in general had more focus on safety. However, it was easier said than done, and as we slowly reached warmer latitudes, the ongoing discussion spoiled our expectations of a harmonious, adventurous passage. What happened to the exciting guy who seemed to be looking forward to this trip just as much as we were and wanted to share his lifetime stories with us? Was he still there somewhere?

The wise old fisherman All his life, our Englishman had dedicated innumerable days to fishing, primarily involving professional equipment and deep-sea creatures on the hook. During the preparations for our crossing, he continuously mentioned how he could hardly wait to fill our plates with dorado fillets and fresh tuna sandwiches. Although it sounded absolutely delicious, we were not able to hide our skepticism based on stories we had read or heard concerning the lack of fish in the big, blue ocean.

We decided, however, to give it a go and did not store as many provisions as we possibly should have done.

Rice, beans, olives and tinned vegetables would do well as supplements to the fresh haul Mr. Douglas had promised us. His bag, consisting of 20 kilos of equipment, undoubtedly gave us some hope of success.

Holy macaroni! I doubt there was a time in life we missed a proper meat or fish meal so terribly as much as in the second half of the trip. We could not wait to get to Barbados and grant ourselves a culinary experience. As a matter of fact, we did not get one single fish, except for the curious grown-up flying fish that ended its days on deck. Still, we had some variation in terms of nutrition. One day we served soup with rice, the next day soup with baked beans, the third day the beans were replaced with lentils and another day the spaghetti found its way into the soup. If we were lucky we could even find some pieces of chorizo in that mixture, which probably would look exactly the same if it were the result of seasickness.

Above: For our passage from the Canaries to the Caribbean we decided to take an extra hand.

To protect the ‘innocent’, his photo won’t be shown Right: Linn Charlotte and Paul: ‘Timothy regretted choosing us and our small yacht for the crossing…’

Turbulence Since Paul and I did not have massive experience when it came to sailing (we only started in 2012), we focused on safety rather than taking any risks that might cause us trouble. Planning to go all around the world, we aimed to keep the boat and its equipment, not to mention ourselves, in a good shape and avoid unnecessary expenses on our already Spartan budget. Some may call us cowards; at least Timothy did.

He lived under the motto “No risk, no fun”, which implied lying on the bow of the boat while surfing down the waves, or taking a swim behind the boat completely untied.

After totally agreeing to our practices and rules before the journey, he showed reluctant behavior once we got out into the open sea. Imagine how frustrating it was to try to tell a grown-up man, who lived his entire life on his own premises, how to behave in your home. What options do you have when you find your crewmember sleeping on his night watch with the excuse “I have full control and know where every other boat is located”?

Speaking for myself, I did my best until I eventually lost my patience. Since the captain always has the last word, Paul had to make an effort to talk some sense into him, such as patiently explaining that things have

Well, we could not exactly blame Tim for the scarce haul; still it was frustrating. Not to forget the handful of times a fish actually took the bait but managed to escape, leaving us with an empty line or no line at all.

Reducing the speed in general or in the moment the fish bit did not bring any luck either.

From the poor food situation we learned a whole lot more about provisioning and, funnily enough, something creative came out of the failure. Like any other true musician, Paul brought his guitar on the crossing and succeeded in lightening up the atmosphere from time to time.

—Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page The self-composed song about the wise old fisherman who surprisingly (at least to himself) did not catch any fish and blamed all thinkable factors soon became a hit on board.

Bridgetown in three or four days when something suddenly put a spanner in the works for us.

It started in the middle of the night with a suspicious slam on the port side, followed by a serious bang on the starboard side. Paul and I were off watch and woke up immediately, terrified that the mast was in danger.

We could not be mistaken: each of the two bangs had taken place just above our heads, meaning that the lower shrouds had to be involved. One of them had broken straight through below the spreader, the other one was moving about and resembled very much a flabby asparagus. The poor mast now had to put its trust to the forestay and backstay and the tiny little babystay in the middle.

were extremely nerve-racking. What if we got into bad weather? Would the mast collapse? Did we have sufficient fuel to get to shore? More frequent squalls and the tearing interaction of wires above our heads while trying to sleep certainly did not calm us down.

It is hard to tell if crossing fingers on the night watch actually helped, but after four exhausting days, and a total of 20 and a half days, we arrived in the capital of Barbados, safe and sound. Thank God! (Or was it Neptune?)

Lessons learned For those of you planning an ocean crossing, please consider your alternative crewmember(s) carefully; you might realize that you are better off without extra crew. Having extra crew certainly is more relaxing with shorter watches, but if the social life on board

Counter-clockwise from left: The only fish we ‘caught’ on the entire crossing was this kamikaze flying fish Paul washes away some stress Going up the mast to replace a broken shroud in mid-Atlantic is nobody’s idea of a good time

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PAGE 15

As the break of dawn colored the sky ruby red, our number one challenge was to secure the rig and somehow replace the lower shrouds. Taking the broken wire, Paul made a loop in the end to re-attach it to the spreader. Next, Timothy and I collected all our lashing straps and a solid line while Paul was preparing for the trip up the mast. Watching my usually brave boyfriend burst into tears as he climbed upwards truly was a critical moment, which touched my spectrum of feelings in so many ways. He still had the guts to pull it through and safely returned to the deck where we tightened the arrangement with the straps. Good captain!

The worst part was over, yet the following days

becomes a nightmare, it is definitely not worth it.

Taking our story into account, you should at least do some test trips in advance just to see how you are getting along offshore. After all, you will be sharing a small space and may literally step on one another’s toes. It is, for sure, very different from sharing an apartment on shore where you can go out for a walk if you feel stuck. Surrounded by ocean in all directions, 2,000 miles away from the destination, you do not have that opportunity.

Secondly, do not trust your fishing equipment no matter how heavy, expensive and colorful it is. Do yourself a favor and store plenty of tins with nutritious food. If you are lucky and catch a lot of dorado, you can always keep the tins for a later occasion.

Last but not least, do not forget to bring sufficient extra lines and lashing straps!

Bon voyage!

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

The turning point Due to the disharmony created by the disagreements on board, Paul and I had to “swallow a lot of camels”.

Timothy, on his side, claimed that he never had had to make so many compromises in his life and argued that we were taking his freedom away. Our crewmember was quite unstructured, leaving his belongings here and there, throwing the dishes into a corner after washing up. So the days went by, filled with frustration and efforts to deal with his untidiness. After all, it is important to keep the boat at a certain level of tidiness since you never know when the next monster wave is knocking on your door, either leaving your randomly placed belongings soaking wet or throwing them from one place to another. (When it came to our boat, the short keel did not prevent sideways rolling to the same extent a longer keel would have done. Not only equipment will be tumbled around, the crew also has to struggle to keep their balance, and bruises are mandatory.)

Timothy regretted choosing us and our relatively small yacht for the crossing; at the same time we had second thoughts about bringing him along. The fact that Mr. Douglas (who no longer was as fit as he would like to think) might injure himself was also a concern for both parties.

However, luckily, as we went towards the end of the second week, the atmosphere slowly started to improve.

We are grateful for a clarifying discussion one sunny morning in the cockpit. Not only did we come up with compromises to make life livable on board for all of us, this talk also functioned as a relieving outlet for the large quantity of suppressed irritation. The changes did not happen overnight, but we managed to sit down and have a conversation and even laugh together.

Through his stories, Timothy brought us back to Indian adventures, African safaris, his incidental hook-up with Bob Dylan and more. We also began taking more photos and enjoying being at sea. Of course, all of us had to try our best, which meant avoiding flipping out, being patient and participating equally in the chores and being considerate of everyone’s wellbeing on board.

The catastrophe knocking on the door Although the situation was much better, we did not get away from the fact that we were all longing to feel the white Caribbean sand between our toes and have some space on our own. Since the weather still was very reliable, we were optimistic about reaching

Ivan Revisited: A Tenth Anniversary Review

SEPTEMBER 2014

At 7:00PM on Tuesday, September 7th, 2004 my wife, Christine, and I were boarding a plane at Edinburgh Airport to fly back to Bristol after a week’s holiday touring Scotland. We were nearing the end of a six-week return to the UK, having left our boat, Hummingbird, on a mooring in Grenada.

Some 4,500 miles away, at 2:00PM in Grenada, Hurricane Ivan had started to carve a trail of unbelievable devastation across the island, during which it rose from a mere Category 3 to Category 4. By the end of the day, sustained winds well in excess of 100 knots had been recorded.

Because nothing like this had happened for nearly 50 years, the island was, to a large extent, unprepared. The hurricane cut off electricity and water supplies.

Communications with the outside world failed and, of course, the same applied to telephones, radio and television.

My sister, who lives in Wisconsin, had been watching NOAA and telephoned to ask how the boat had fared in the hurricane. This was the first we heard of Ivan and it was to be quite some time before we were able to answer her question.

First, the Bad News In 2004, 49 years had elapsed since Hurricane Janet ripped over Grenada and killed more than 130 people. Only those Grenadians over 55 years of age had any real memory of the havoc that could be caused by such a storm. A high level of complacency had developed and many people, including those in authority, had come to believe that the island really was below the hurricane belt. Thus, little or no attempt was made to turn off electricity and water supplies or take down communication antennas in preparation.

It was estimated that more than 650 boats were based in Grenada at the time of Ivan’s arrival. The division between those stored ashore and those in the water is not known. In one of the island’s two boatyards only a handful of boats were left undamaged; the rest either blew over or had other boats fall on them. In the other yard, some 18 percent of the boats suffered similarly. The October 2004 issue of Compass estimated that roughly one third of the boats that were in the water either sank or went aground, but this figure was not confirmed. The Prime Minister of Grenada estimated that 90 percent of the properties on the island suffered damage; some escaped lightly, whereas others were wrecked to the extent that they vanished.

The following “snapshots” are based partly on contemporary press reports, partly on discussions with those directly affected, and partly on our own observations.

• It was reported by Jeremy and Léonie Shaw of the yacht Zingano in the aforementioned issue of Compass that before the arrival of Ivan there were over In Ivan’s wake, some were damaged, some were sunk and 40 boats in St. some remained unscathed…

George’s Lagoon, and about half went aground and a few sank. Nick Bruce of Indigo Drum reported that, “on turning the corner into the Lagoon we could not believe our eyes. There was yacht after yacht piled on top of each other, many with anxious owners on board (and) the warehouses around the Lagoon were being looted… by groups of individuals who were clearly having the time of their lives.” Another witness said of the boats “all were piled up four deep ashore”.

• Last year, Jim and Jonni of Te Natura showed their video shot on board when Ivan was at its height. Hair-raising stuff. It also included a clip taken the following day, which showed a number of yachts riding peacefully at anchor in a sunlit Prickly Bay. It was hard to imagine that the day before three people had died out there.

• Compass reported that about 90 boats were in Mt. Hartman Bay (Secret Harbour) before the hurricane struck. Afterwards over 50 remained afloat and possibly ten were sunk, six of them in the marina there; 20 to 30 were reported as being ashore on the rocks and small beaches around the bay. Serious looting took place and some owners were threatened with machetes and stones and told to keep away until looters had finished. On the west side of the bay ex-USN Commander Max Rogers, owner of Kandu, defended his boat and others in the vicinity, his service handgun in hand.

• The hills on either side of the road leading down to the head of Clarkes Court Bay from the village of Ruth Howard had once been dotted with small wooden huts, shacks really, and it was heartbreaking to see that, for the most part, they just vanished. People’s homes blown away, really. A stuffed armchair, a large cooking pot, not much more was left.

• And then there was the disgraceful story of the yacht Rassi. Graham Bailey had moored his boat in Mt. Hartman Bay and, at the height of the hurricane, it crossed the reef, blew out to sea, travelled west along the coast and came back ashore on the rocks of Hardy Bay, which is within the confines of the airport. Because of this, it took Graham several days to find the boat and then gain access to it through the airport’s secure area. By the time he got there it had already been stripped of every piece of removable yachting equipment: sails, winches, instruments, ropes, fenders, the list went on and on. Rassi could only be accessed by dinghy, and it must have been other cruisers from bays to the east that stripped the boat. It took Graham and Ann over two years of hard work to rebuild and refit their home.

—Continued on next page NICK BRUCE

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 16

by Christopher Price

CHRIS DOYLE

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CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

Christopher and Jeanette Price sailed their 50-foot catamaran, Hummingbird, to the Eastern Caribbean in 2002. Their intention was to stay for a year, but they still haven’t torn themselves away.

MARINAS

SEPTEMBER 2014

—Continued from previous page • CK’s Cash and Carry was one of the very few island food stores that was virtually undamaged and was able to reopen very quickly. Looting was prevented by armed guards from the Trinidadian Defence Force and customers were only allowed in six at a time.

• Rob Nealy of Maverick anchored his boat in Clarkes Court Bay and spent the day in a friend’s house overlooking the marina there. His graphic description: “When Ivan struck, the marina travelled south scattering boats and, after the eye had passed over, it travelled back north scattering the rest.”

These “snapshots” give some idea of the appalling conditions that faced the people of Grenada and the yachting community on the morning of Wednesday, September 8th, 2004.

And Then the Good News Although cruisers are by no means perfect in every respect — Graham Bailey had some carefully chosen words to say on that subject — the one thing they are really good at is rallying round. Within a day or so of Ivan’s departure, cruising boats were leaving Trinidad laden with disaster relief supplies. They were followed by undamaged boats from Grenada on the same mission. Marine Trade Associations from St. Martin to Trinidad set about loading trucks and containers with supplies of every description. Grenada’s marine business community made huge efforts to get their shops and service facilities up and running again.

At international level, the full machinery of major disaster relief moved rapidly into action. United Nations, Pan-American and Caribbean organizations were quickly on the scene and individual Caribbean governments provided more support and relief than they could probably afford.

Once the initial crisis was over, the Grenadian government still faced enormous long-term problems in rebuilding the island’s economy. The hotel and resort infrastructure was badly damaged and it has taken many years of hard work to restore this important contributor to the income of the island. The same can be said of the related yachting sector.

Within the world of Grenadian yachting, there have been two significant changes ‘The yachting industry is thriving as never before’, since Ivan. Both of the as is visible in St. George’s Lagoon and the rest of big boatyards have Grenada’s yacht harbors reorganized their storage facilities and there is now complete segregation between monohulls and catamarans. The latter are, of course, much less likely to be blown over by hurricane force winds, but in Ivan many were damaged by adjacent monohulls falling across them.

Tie-down points have also been installed throughout the yards and both of them also now offer strong steel cradles into which monohulls can be lashed securely and which themselves are firmly screwed down. Between them, the two yards can now accommodate more than 450 boats. (I believe that an additional storage facility is planned for Clarkes Court Bay, although this is subject to confirmation.)

On the marina front, in the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Ivan it became clear that, in general, the larger marinas needed to provide better storm protection for their customers’ boats. The lessons were obvious and it is reasonable to assume that newer facilities incorporate significant improvements. During the last ten years, St. George’s Lagoon has been cleared not only of wreckage, but also of the remnants of the old Grenada Yacht Services marina. This has been replaced by Port Louis marina. On the south coast, Le Phare Bleu marina has been installed. At least two other marinas are planned, and in all these cases it must be assumed that modern marina design takes full account of the stresses that can be imposed by winds well in excess of 100 knots. [Editor’s note: See related story on page 18.]

The yachting industry in Grenada is now thriving as never before and it is probable that the number of boats around the island during the summer months is now even greater than before Ivan. As the yachting community has recovered from that shattering experience, the Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada (MAYAG) has played a significant role in advancing their interests. This has been primarily for the benefit of its members, the providers of goods and services, but indirectly for the benefit of the visiting boaters who are their customers. Of equal importance, MAYAG has been able to forge closer links with government and ensure that there is full recognition of the increasingly important contribution that yachting makes to the island’s economy.

Hummingbird’s Perch What, then, was the answer to my sister’s question? It took us nearly ten days to find our 50-foot cat, Hummingbird, high and dry in Calivigny Harbour and guarded by an armed member of the Grenada Defence Force. He had arrived too late: she had been thoroughly looted, but fortunately the internal damage was negligible. Just a helluva mess to tidy up. Our boat was refloated and we took it to Antigua for extensive repairs. The total bill, paid with commendable speed by Pantaenius, was slightly in excess of US$45,000.

We have returned to Grenada for the summer for each of the last ten years and it is probable that we will continue to do so. However, we are not deluding ourselvelves.

There is a tendency among some within the Grenadian yachting community to dismiss the hurricane threat as something that only happens once every 50 years. This is, perhaps, mostly a consequence of marketing enthusiasm. However, there should be no room for complacency.

During the last 60 years, Grenada has been hit by two devastating major hurricanes. The claim that the island lies below the hurricane belt is belied by the fact that between Janet in 1955 and Ivan ten years ago, a full-scale hurricane passed 40 miles south of the island in 1963, and in 1990 and 1993 tropical storms struck Trinidad.

Only ten months after Ivan, Hurricane Emily passed over Grenada, but it was farther north — and the island was much better prepared than the year before.

It has been said that Grenada is a “safe place” to leave a boat during the hurricane season. I doubt if that can be said of any island in the Eastern Caribbean chain, but it is certainly true that Grenada appears to be safer. It is for this reason that we continue to visit during the summer months and in doing so we are encouraged by the way in which the island has recovered from the horrors of Hurricane Ivan. More especially we have welcomed the way in which the lessons learned during the recovery process have been applied within the yachting industry.

Grenada’s Yachting Facilities:

YOUR USED SAILS WANTED! CHRIS DOYLE

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‘BUILT BACK BETTER!’

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 18

Donations of used sails and fishing equipment can be sent to either Minneford Marina at 150 City Island Ave., Bronx, NY 10464 (www.minnefordmarina.com) or to Marina ZarPar in Boca Chica, Dominican Republic (www.marinazarpar.com). School and first-aid supplies are also welcome. A receipt for your donation will be given upon request.

Frank Virgintino, developer of Free Cruising Guides, will take all donated items to Haiti during February 2015 and distribute them to fishermen in a number of communities.

For more information contact Frank Virgintino at fvirgintino@gmail.com or SSCA board member Catherine Hebson at cmvhebson@gmail.com.

MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOON SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2014 Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides.

Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward.

From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local.

Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons.

For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides!

21 0950 11 0204 September 2014 22 1033 12 0257 DATE TIME 23 1116 13 0350 1 1711 24 1200 14 0441 2 1805 25 1242 15 0530 3 1901 26 1330 16 0617 4 1959 27 1418 17 0702 5 2057 28 1508 18 0746 6 2155 29 1600 19 0830 7 2253 30 1654 20 0912 8 2349 21 0956 9 0000 (full moon) October 2014 22 1040 10 0044 1 1750 23 1126 11 0138 2 1846 24 1214 12 0232 3 1943 25 1304 13 0325 4 2038 26 1356 14 0417 5 2134 27 1451 15 0509 6 2238 28 1546 16 0559 7 2322 29 1642 17 0648 8 0000 (full moon) 30 1737 18 0736 9 0016 31 1832 19 0822 10 0110 20 0907

Fondly known as ‘Camp Grenada’, with a mixture of anchorages and facilities the island is a popular summer hangout as well as a place for boat storage and repairs — and since Ivan, storm preparations are greatly improved Grenada’s motto after Hurricane Ivan was “Build Back Better” — and what a comeback it was! Any naiveté about the possible effects of a big storm is long gone, and in its place is a seamanlike attitude of being well prepared for the worst nature can throw at you, even if it’s a very rare occurrence. Although a few gaps still remain, the past ten years have seen remarkable development in the island’s infrastructure, and the Isle of Spice’s marine and yachting sector has really taken the Build Back Better goal to heart. Previously existing facilities have indeed been “built back better”, facilities built since 2004 have been constructed to uplifted standards, and Hurricane Plans all around have been fine-tuned.

To get an overview, Compass asked some of Grenada’s boatyards and marinas to share with us how they have prepared for heavy weather.

Susie Gray of Customer Services at Spice Island Marine Services, the longestestablished boatyard on the island, reports that, since Ivan, Spice Island Marine has introduced insurance-approved storage methods that include: • All boats in storage being strapped down with ties that are secured in six-footdeep cement-filled holes; • Solid steel cradles as well as a new stand system that involves locking stands together with one-inch pipe and special clamps. Monohulls have their forward and aft stands welded together; • Catamarans are segregated from monohulls and cradle-storage boats; and • All sails are taken down.

Susie adds that, “Even though we recommend it, mast removal is optional. We offer separate dinghy and outboard storage areas; in lieu of that, dinghies must be strapped down on decks.”

From Grenada Marine boatyard, owner Jason Fletcher elaborates on similar innovations: • Cradles: “Because some members of our team stayed in the yard during Ivan, they were able to observe what happens when a boat is knocked over due to high wind: the boat lifts and drops in the stands. Because the stands are chained together under tension against the hull, when the boat lifts the stands move and with the repeated lifting of the boat by the wind, the stands eventually get loose and the boat topples or is blown over. We designed and made a one-piece cradle system in which the arms are held in place mechanically, so, if the boat lifts, the pads do not move and the boat does not become unstable. We have a special cradle section for those who choose to opt for this storage method, so they are not affected by less stable boats alongside them.”

• Tie-down straps: “Again as a result of our observations during the storm, we realized that the most effective thing to do would be to stop the boat from lifting in the first place, so the stands cannot become unstable. So we drove over 500 anchors into the yard, allowing us to tie the boats to the ground with a minimum of four cargotype ratchet straps per boat. This has become a standard part of our basic chocking option during the hurricane season and we view this as our biggest improvement.”

• Storage by type of boat: “Again owing to the experience gained, we now store boats by type, so cats are stored together, monohulls together and cradle boats together.”

• Storm water defense: “We built a wall at the most vulnerable area of the watercourse that runs along the western side of the yard, reducing the possibility of the yard becoming flooded because of excessive rain.”

• Hurricane preparedness plan: “Ivan helped us to develop a more effective hurricane preparedness plan. We learned a lot that has been noted for future use. For just one example, some boats that fell over were damaged by things left next to the boat, such as concrete culverts or stands. These are now moved to safe locations prior to a storm.

“We have also developed the habit of a constant daily online weather watch during the season.”

• “In the office, we now have web-based management software and cloud backup.

• Insurance policy improvements: “Ivan’s lessons also taught us a lot that we used to fine-tune our arrangements with our own insurance agents. But one of the best things for us was the exposure of working with the insurance companies and their surveyors on the repair of 25 of the 32 boats (out of 200) damaged because of the storm. It made them aware of our abilities and has resulted in us being sent work from insurance companies since then. I understand that this is not an ‘improvement’ per se, but for us it is good news resulting from the storm.”

From Prickly Bay Marina, Marina Manager Davide Costantini says, “On September 1st 2004, I signed a contract for the management of the operations of Prickly Bay Marina, and on the 7th a Category 4 Hurricane passed over. The devastation was solid, but reconstruction started the morning after and we were never closed. We stayed operative also as a Port of Entry for the many vessels that arrived from south with aid.

—Continued on next page

CHRIS DOYLE

SEPTEMBER 2014

—Continued from previous page “At the present we have two new docks and we reconstructed the old existing dock; plus we have 20 solid moorings in the bay nearby our docks. All the shore facilities, such as the restrooms, Customs office, bar and restaurant, minimarket and others have all been modified and improved and, in some cases, rebuilt completely. All those works have been done by Darren Turner, who has been the managing director since March 2011.

“We now have a Hurricane Plan and all boats in our facility need to comply with it.

In short, this hurricane plan provides for the assisted evacuation of all the boats from our facility and Prickly Bay waters in case a named storm or a hurricane will be passing directly over the island. The bay is safe and beautiful in virtually all conditions, but is not a recommended place to be for a storm or hurricane.”

Manager Lynn Fletcher of Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique Hotel reports: “The owners of Le Phare Bleu started their project shortly after Hurricane Ivan hit Grenada in September 2004. With this terrible experience in mind it was clear Le Phare Bleu needed to have a Hurricane Plan when in operation.

“A big lesson learnt from Ivan is that a boat in the water on a strong mooring with no other boats around had the highest chance of surviving. Meaning, a well-protected ‘Hurricane Hole’ can be a trap if there are many others boats around that are not properly anchored. So maybe being in the anchorage on a strong mooring with no other boats around will be the better choice. So, Le Phare Bleu decided to place ten storm moorings in their bay (with permission of the Port Authority) and in case of a Tropical Storm Warning, boats in the marina with the highest windage need to be moved to these moorings, which are located outside of the marina.

“Le Phare Bleu has been visited by a few insurance companies and has had approval for its operation and Hurricane Moorings. (Always check with your insurance company for their requirements during the Hurricane Season and especially for named Tropical Storms procedures.)

“The Hurricane Moorings consist of two hydraulic driven square-shaft anchors and one three-ton concrete block with a holding power of 5.2 tons. During Hurricane Season, from June to November, Le Phare Bleu will only allow 50 percent occupancy in the marina, to spread the load and to make sure all the boats have at least a double slip available (with double mooring lines).

“All boats unattended (i.e. without the owner/skipper on board) for any period during the Hurricane Season must be under a guardianage contract. The guardianage company or individual has an obligation to move and to care for that boat plus take all reasonable action to protect it under the guidelines laid out in the Hurricane Plan of Le Phare Bleu.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

“Each year before the Hurricane Season starts, the moorings and docks are checked and tested by commercial divers to ensure all are in good order. Staff and tenants, as well as any long-term marina guests, meet for a Hurricane Briefing to run through the procedures. During the Hurricane Season, Le Phare Bleu checks various hurricane monitoring websites twice daily.”

Storm moorings are also a popular choice with Horizon Yacht Charters Grenada in True Blue Bay. Director James Pascall says, “We haven’t changed much at True Blue dock-wise since Ivan, as the dock survived the storm and we were back operating in a few days. We now have hurricane moorings in the bay that are available for rental outside hurricane season, but during hurricane season we need the space for our own fleet. Keeping our fleet on hurricane moorings is easier to manage; the moorings are very strong (three screws, large concrete block, substantial chain and line) and we know they’ll hold a boat in a Category 4.” James notes that chafe is the biggest issue, so they use two sizes of toilet hose, one inside the other, for double protection. He adds, “Not moving the boats around gives us much more time for preparation — which is key for named storms.”

Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon opened in 2008, four years after Ivan.

Manager Danny Donelan says, “We operate under international standards and have a very comprehensive Hurricane Plan in case storms are coming (an electronic copy is available from the marina on request). We also insist that anyone who comes into the marina has insurance; we are one of a few marinas that insist on this and this is to help protect our customers in case anything does happen during a storm.” In addition: • “All of our docks are of hurricane quality and we survey the docks at least once every six months to make sure all is good under the water; • “We run hurricane drills with our guys every few months so they know what to do in case of the real thing; • “We put out daily weather forecasts on our notice board; • “We make sure that there are no loose items on the docks before a storm; • “We will put extra fenders, lines, etcetera on all boats we think need them; • “We will tell everyone to take down all sails, canvas, etcetera; • “We strongly suggest that everyone who is leaving their boats at the marina take on a guardianage company. It’s not compulsory, but we recommend it.”

In summary, any summertime complacency that existed ten years ago has been replaced by awareness of the importance of hurricane-season preparedness, even if hurricanes are rare this far south. As one marina manager says, “The major change in Grenada, I think, is the fact that Ivan made all of us around the 12th parallel aware of our vulnerability, just like the guys in the north are aware.”

PAGE 19

A few visual reminders remain: the roof of the Anglican Church (at top center) blew off in Hurricane Ivan in 2004, changing the iconic ridgeline of St. George’s

ALL ASHORE…

Exploring Santo Domingo and its Surroundings

by Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 20

WIKIMEDIA

Earlier this year I visited the Dominican Republic to attend a scientific conference.

That was a good excuse to do some exploring of the country’s vibrant capital city, Santo Domingo, and its surroundings.

Shopping: ‘Faceless Dolls’ and Amber Our hotel, Hostal Primaveral la Mansión, was a tiny establishment located in the outskirts of Santo Domingo and a five-minute walk from Old Santo Domingo (Zona Colonial de Santo Domingo). My favourite place there was Calle El Conde. This street is not only popular with visitors but with the locals as well, since it is “a one stop shop”: there are clothing, music and souvenir shops and restaurants that offer live entertainment outside their establishments at night.

Vehicles are prohibited, so vendors set up stalls in the centre of this very wide street to sell clothing (at ridiculously low prices) or paintings (mostly copies of art from Haiti, which shares the island of Hispaniola).

These vendors are there until around 7:00PM. Old Santo Domingo is the place to go for great deals on souvenirs. Bear in mind that the Dominican Republic is quite diverse in terms of beliefs and culture, so that souvenirs you may get in one region you may not be able to find in another. Our hotel was also within walking distance of the Mercado Modelo, which is another location for affordable trinkets.

Some popular souvenirs include the characteristic straw hats, musical instruments such as drums and graters (yes, these are used in traditional music), and the famous handmade Faceless Dolls. The artist who originally made these clay dolls without faces said she did so because it was a way to solve the dilemma of representing the myriad different ethnicities in the Dominican Republic.

If music is your drug, be sure to dance to some salsa and pick up some CDs. Get some bachata, a Latino genre of music that originated in the Dominican Republic. Most of the songs are romantic, often dealing with heartbreak.

There are also vendors who sell jewelry made of larimar (a blue stone found only in the Dominican Republic) and amber. The Dominican Republic is very well known for its amber, and most of the pieces have insects, spiders or larger animals, such as lizards, embedded in them. But you must beware — there is a lot of fake amber out there. Fake amber is generally very inexpensive, so you think you are getting a good deal. Real amber pieces can range in price from US$25 to over US$100. The key thing to look for is flawlessness: if there are no bubbles in the amber then it is usually fake! Another test is to place the piece in a super-saturated salt solution. If it floats then it is real, but if it sinks to the bottom then the piece is fake. There are some vendors that will tell you outright that they are selling fakes, which you can take back as inexpensive trinkets, as well as real amber, which they keep separate; if you know your stuff then often the vendors will admit to some pieces being fake and bring out the real ones.

If you don’t want to haggle and call bluffs, then I suggest visiting the Amber Museum, also located in Old Santo Domingo, which, in addition to exhibiting amber, also sells it.

Getting Around It is easy to get around the city and to natural attractions in the area using public transport. Getting around Santo Domingo is an adventure in itself, as many of the vehicles used in public transport look like they are falling apart. Despite appearances, they get you where you want to go! Vehicles used as taxis have the letter “H” at the start of their license plate. There are also taxis painted a bright yellow, as in the USA. The fare is a bit higher than if you were to take a mini-bus because you are hiring the entire vehicle, whereas in mini-buses you are paying per seat. There are many small buses and cars that assemble at “stands”, or sections of certain streets.

However, there are no signs denoting the location of these stands or the routes that they take. Therefore, it is advisable to have a good command of Spanish so that you can find your way to the right place if you choose to take public transport. Then again, you can always take the subway. There are two lines: one that runs from north to south while the second line runs east to west.

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The cave and lake system known as Los Tres Ojos — an interesting find on the city’s outskirts So, besides fun shopping, what else is there to do in Santo Domingo? The city has a lovely Natural History Museum (Museo Nacional de Historia Natural), mainly devoted to marine life. Santo Domingo is also a beautiful area to photograph. As in many other Latin American countries, you will see many statues and sculptures, and colourful murals covering the walls of institutions.

The Zoo and the Caves As zoologists, one of the places we had to visit was the National Zoo, located on the outskirts of the city.

—Continued on next page

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Cheapest prices in the Grenadines Unobstructed dock in calm water 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: bandcfuels@gmail.com

JO-ANNE SEWLAL (2)

—Continued from previous page There are mini-buses that go to the Zoo, and a short walk from the Zoo entrance you can get mini-buses that will take you back close to the city centre. Keep in mind that on Sundays the Zoo’s front entrance is open, but on weekdays the public uses the side entrance — so if you get there on a weekday it might appear to be closed.

The Natural History Museum is one of Santo Domingo’s numerous museums.

It features two complete whale skeletons: a humpback and a sei

Some 15 kilometres long and up to three kilometres wide (nine by one-and-four-fifths miles), Dunas de Las Calderas is the largest area of sanddune ecosystem in the Antilles

Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal, Ph. D., is a zoologist at the University of the West Indies, St. Augustine, and editor of the Environment Tobago Newsletter.

Marina Zar-Par

18.25.50N 69.36.67W

THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN T

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• Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport

Visit: marinazarpar.com email: info@marinazarpar.com Tel: 809 523 5858 VHF Channel 5

PAGE 21

For information about sailing in the Dominican Republic visit www.noonsite.com/ Countries/DominicanRepublic and http://freecruisingguides.com/dominican-republic; also see ad for Marina ZarPar on this page.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

bay and the neighbouring naval base. You also see how extensive the dunes are, complete with cacti in some spots, giving one the impression that there is a mini-desert in the middle of the Caribbean. It may seem daunting, but the dunes can be crossed to reach a secluded beach.

Food: Empanadas and Besitos In addition to shopping and sightseeing, the Dominican Republic offers a lot to eat.

Different parts of the country have their specialties, and where we stayed in Santo Domingo the street food included empanadas. We also discovered pasteles en hoja, which are similar to Mexican tamales. In the Dominican Republic, these are made of boiled and mashed plantains instead of cornmeal, and wrapped and steamed in banana leaves instead of cornhusks. There are many restaurants that sell local food, and you can always find that staple — Chinese food. My favourite meal is dessert, so I concentrated on the sweets. Some popular ones included what is known in my country (Trinidad & Tobago) as guava “cheese”, a very dense jam made from the guava fruit and usually sold in blocks and coated in sugar. Another type of sweet that is common is coconut macaroons (besitos de coco). There are also sweets made of tamarind: the pulp is removed from the seeds and mixed with sugar into a semisoft paste and rolled into balls and coated with sugar.

To me, the Dominican Republic has the perfect blend of cosmopolitan and natural beauty with a Caribbean flavor. But with a country so large, you would need to spend a few weeks to get to know it, and by that time you may not want to leave.

SEPTEMBER 2014

The zoo is large and has its own salt pond. There are snackettes and bathrooms dotted around the property. There is also an open area behind the main entrance that has tables and chairs where you can eat or just hang out. Nearby there is a spacious gift shop that offers an assortment of handicraft items. These are very affordable, ranging from DOP2.50 to DOP50. [Editor’s note: At the time of writing, there were 43.6 Dominican Republic pesos to the US dollar.] Your ticket entitles you to a train ride. Well, it is not a real train, but trucks outfitted to look like trains and their cars that take you up the long hill to the main exhibition area where you are given a mini-tour, after which you can get out and explore. On the walk back down the hill you see tropical rainforest on either side.

After a lunch of fresh fruit that we bought along the way, we had time to visit another attraction, so that afternoon we visited Los Tres Ojos (The Three Eyes) on the extreme outskirts of the city in the Mirador del Este Park, about a 45-minute drive. Created centuries ago, this limestone cave system was originally inhabited by the island’s first inhabitants, the Taíno Indians. This natural attraction gets its name from the fact that there are three caves relatively close to each other. This is evident when you walk to the lookout, which is the top of a vertical shaft where you can see all three openings of the caves. As with the zoo, there is an admission fee and you carry your ticket to the person at the entrance to the cave where an adhesive paper bracelet is placed around your wrist. To enter the cave you have a short walk down stairs that have been cut into the rock. At the bottom there are walkways and stairs to get to each cave. Each cave is filled with clear, blue water that is inhabited by fish.

In the largest cave there is a “boat”, really a raft with some seats and railings, which goes across the water on a pulley system. It can accommodate about six passengers at a time and the trip (one-way) costs about a US quarter. Once across, you follow a pathway that opens up into a huge vertical shaft and a circular lake surrounded by lush tropical rainforest. The boatman mentioned that this was one of the locations where one of the “Tarzan” movies was shot. Also in the largest cave, a man appearing to be in his early 70s climbed the rocky side of the cave to a height of about six metres, without any ropes or safety harnesses, and then dove into the water. After his performance spectators gave him money.

The Dunes Quite a different natural attraction is Dunas de Las Calderas. This national park contains the largest area of sand-dune ecosystem in the Antilles. To get there is very easy: you hop on a bus to Bani that regularly passes along the main road (coastal road). The mini-buses to Bani and points much more distant are colourful, with very

ornate window treatments, the logic being that if you have to travel such a long distance and spend so much time one might as well travel in style. Along the way the mini-bus stopped at a little town where passengers could get out and buy sweets and cakes from street vendors. In some cases vendors would come on the bus and offer their goods that included handmade cheese. As we drove along the main road we noticed groups of dirt bikes and their riders on the side of the road at the junction of dirt roads and the highway. These small roads led to rural communities and these dirt bikes were the taxis, taking commuters from the villages to the main road to get public transport. At Bani you change buses and get one that goes to Las Salinas.

At Dunas de Las Calderas you pay a small fee to enter, as it is a national park. From the entrance you see just a small sandy trail, but when you get up to the lookout you get a great view of the

CRUISING HAITI TODAY Part 2: Perceptions, Misconceptions and Myths

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SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Introduction I have cruised Haiti for two decades. In all of that time, I have found Haiti to be an exceptional Caribbean cruising ground, provided that areas of dense population are avoided.

To explain why more cruising boats should consider cruising Haiti today, it is first necessary to explain why many boats did not call there in the past. The single greatest reason that many boats avoid Haiti is fear. Haiti is feared because Haiti is largely misunderstood. It is my hope that this article will help dissipate that fear by providing some understanding and insight into a marvelous cruising area. It is not the intent of this article to accuse or blame anyone for the problems that exist in Haiti.

The Haitian Revolution, a successful uprising of slaves against the French, was fought from 1791 to 1804, well before slavery was abolished in the British colonies or the United States. The American orator and author Frederick Douglass, himself a former slave, spoke eloquently at the dedication of the Haitian Pavilion at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893. He said, “We should not forget that the freedom you and I enjoy today; that the freedom that eight hundred thousand colored people enjoy in the British West Indies; the freedom that has come to the colored race the world over, is largely due to the brave stand taken by the black sons of Haiti ninety years ago.

When they struck for freedom…they struck for the freedom of every black man in the world.” In other words, for Black people, the Haitian Revolution was “the shot heard ’round the world”. It was a turning point that demonstrated the eventual fate of every slaveholding society.

But after Haiti won her independence from France she became “persona non grata” and in many respects has remained so to this day. Enlightenment philosophers such as Hume, Kant, Hegel and even Thomas Jefferson maintained that the absence of reason was a characteristic of those of African descent: that Africans were inferior to Europeans. It was inconceivable to them that black men could defeat Napoleon’s army. The idea was a threat for the new republic of the United States, where slavery existed throughout the South. Neither did European countries want slaves in their Caribbean colonies inspired to revolt.

How it was possible for slaves to overcome 50,000 French troops? Aside from the fact that many French soldiers died of dysentery and malaria as they pursued the rebels into the mountains, the revolution in Haiti was led by great strategists, men who knew the French well and knew the terrain of Haiti even better. The small army that they led was well disciplined and the men and women in it were willing to die for their freedom. The rebels also used the ability to instill fear. At night in the mountains they used their West African culture’s “Voodoo” to drive fear into their adver-

saries who believed that the Haitians must have been winning because they had made a pact with the devil. When a devastating 7.3 magnitude earthquake struck Haiti in January 2010, Pat Robertson, a famous TV evangelist, said that the earthquake was the wrath of God visited on Haiti for the pact with the devil that they had made so many years ago.

—Continued on page 45 JOCELET OF LES CAYES HAITI

PAGE 22

by Frank Virgintino

Plot farming, once the basis of Haitian life

PLANNING FUN FOR THE COMING SEASON! DAVON BAKER

Whether you’ve spent the summer doing boatwork in the marina or yard, you’ve been back home visiting friends and family, or you’ve been doing some summertime cruising, it’s time to start to look ahead. After you’ve pored over the charts and cruising guides; made plans to feed the kitty; and made your boat, crew and gear the very best they can be… now comes the fun part: dreaming about what — besides some superb sailing, of course — the 2014-2015 Caribbean sailing season might hold in store for you!

New Cruising Grounds ‘Make new friends, but keep the old; one is silver and the other gold.’ It’s a special delight to return to favorite places where acquaintances are glad to see you and you know the lay of the land. It’s also a thrill to drop anchor for the first time somewhere you’ve never been before. For first-time visitors to the Caribbean, even the Windward, Leeward and Virgin Islands will be totally new — lucky them! Meanwhile, old hands will be exploring some of the less-frequently cruised parts of the Caribbean such as the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Cuba, Colombia, Guyana and Suriname.

—Continued on next page DAVID MORGAN

SEPTEMBER 2014

Someplace old… or someplace new, such as Cayos Cochinos in the western Caribbean

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

The unique Shakespeare Mas at Carriacou Carnival

PAGE 23

—Continued from previous page A Lotta Regattas No matter if you’re an IRC commando going for the course record or a cruising couple enjoying a spin around the buoys just for fun, the Caribbean has a jampacked calendar of yacht racing events with something for everyone. And thanks to the efforts of the Caribbean Sailing Association, the schedules of more than 40 regional regattas have been harmonized to avoid as many date conflicts as possible.

We’ll mention just a few.

The 2014 Caribbean racing season will be launched in a busy November that includes the competitive Triskell Cup in Guadeloupe (November 8th through 10th,

The Caribbean you’re looking for WILFRED DEDERER

100% pure sailing.

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 24

Sailing regattas abound. This is Bequia Easter Regatta

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www.triskellcup.com), the friendly St. Croix International Regatta in the US Virgin Islands (November 14th through 16th, www.stcroixyc.com), the fun Jolly Harbour Annual Regatta in Antigua (November 22nd through 23rd, www.jhycantigua.com), and the new Mango Bowl Regatta in St. Lucia (November 28th through 30th, http:// stluciayachtclub.com).

Bid a fond farewell to the Old Year with the Nelson’s Pursuit Race in Antigua on December 31st, conceived as a re-enactment of Lord Nelson’s pursuit of the French fleet across the Atlantic in 1805 (www.antiguayachtclub.com).

Start 2015 in high spirits at the multifaceted Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race Series (January 15th through 24th, www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace. com), then sail to the Spice Isle for tons of fun at Grenada Sailing Week (January 29th through February 3rd, www.grenadasailingweek.com).

February might be short, but it vies with April for hosting the most regattas per month (seven each). Fancy something French? Try the two-day Around Martinique Race (February 15th and 16th, www.clubnautiquedumarin.com). Hardcore offshore racing is your thing? Enter the RORC Caribbean 600 out of Antigua (February 23rd through 27th, http://caribbean600.rorc.org). It’s the non-stop 600-mile race that Don Street called “more fun than the Fastnet!”

In March, the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta (March 6th through 8th, www.heinekenregatta.com) is the biggest, baddest, most partying kid on the block. Desire something more elegant? The St. Barths Bucket (March 19th through 22nd, www.bucketregattas. com) provides refined but high-calibre sailing off the isle of the rich and famous.

The Caribbean racing season peaks in April with, among many others, the superfriendly Bequia Easter Regatta (April 2nd through 6th, www.begos.com/easterregatta), the always spectacular Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (April 16th through 21, http://antiguaclassics.com), and the grand-daddy of them all, Antigua Sailing Week (April 26th through May 1st, www.sailingweek.com).

In May, island hop with the Triskell Round Guadeloupe and Dominica Race (May 6th through 10th, www.triskellcup.com) or head north for the big Puerto Rico Heineken International Regatta (May 29th through 31st, www.heinekenregattapr.com).

After that, the racing season winds down. If you plan to be in the ABCs for summer 2015, don’t miss the Heineken Regatta Curaçao (June 19th through 21st, www. heinekenregattacuracao.com), and if you haven’t “hurricane-holed” enjoy the Carriacou Regatta Festival in late July/early August — Carriacou Regatta will celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2015.

Check out the full CSA calendar of Caribbean sailing events at http://caribbeansailing.com/caribbean-race-calendar/calendar.

Even if you’re not participating, there are lots of specialist sailing events that are a joy to watch, including the dugout sailing canoe yole races in Martinique (a roundthe-island race is usually scheduled for late July/early August, http://yoles-rondes. net); the West Indies Regatta for native island sloops and schooners in St. Barths during the first weekend in May (http://westindiesregatta.com); Caribbean International Kiteboard Week in Bonaire in June (www.facebook.com/ Kiteridebonaire); and Anguilla’s indigenous Boatrace Championships at the end of August (http://ivisitanguilla.com/boatrace). Just being around Rodney Bay, St. Lucia in December when the 200-plus-boat Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) fleet arrives after their ocean crossing is exciting.

Caribbean Carnivals Oh, yes! Plan to “lively up yourself” with at least one Caribbean carnival this coming year. Nearly every island or nation celebrates carnival, some on the traditional days before Lent and others at various times throughout the year, from St. Kitts & Nevis and St. Croix’s carnivals around New Year’s Day to Grenada’s Spice Mas in August. Most of these events have lost any religious significance and are now devoted to music, costumed parades and the consumption of alcoholic beverages.

If something geared more toward folklore and tradition is your speed, Carnival in the Grenadine island of Carriacou (February 16th and 17th, 2015) is for you.

The unique “Shakespeare Mas(querade)” is described as “verbal dueling between two players to determine who can recite the most speeches” from Shakespeare.

The masked players are dressed in colorful Pierrot-like costumes, and those who recite badly are whipped or switched by their opponent.

If you want to fête till you sweat, be in Trinidad for the Caribbean’s biggest annual bacchanal (Carnival Monday and Tuesday, February 16th and 17th, 2015) with steel band music, parades, endless parties, shows and costumes (and expanses of flesh) that will blow your mind.

Less world-famous than Trinidad Carnival, but perhaps even more outré — watch for packs of she-devils and men in highly provocative drag — are the four days of costumed revelry in Martinique that climax on Ash Wednesday (February 18th) with the burning of the giant effigy of King Vaval.

—Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page Many Music Festivals If Carnivals have long been a staple of Caribbean culture, music festivals — the grown-up cousins of the live music at every beach bar — are the up-andcoming thing. They are now held all over the Caribbean and all over the calendar, with musical genres ranging from the expected calypso and reggae, to blues, jazz and Creole. Here are just a few of the many that have become especial favorites for yachts: At next month’s World Creole Music Fest in Dominica (October 24th through 26th GWENITH WHITFORD WILFRED DEDERER (2)

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

OYSTER, INGRID ABERY

2014, www.wcmfdominica.com), grab a mooring at Roseau and enjoy three nights of music from the French West Indies, Haiti, Jamaica, Africa and more.

For most of the month of January, St. Barth resounds with jazz, opera and chamber music during the Saint Barth Music Festival (www.stbartsmusicfestival.org); 2015 will be its 31st season.

Cruise to the blues: The Mustique Blues Festival runs from January 21st through February 4th, 2015. The Bequia Music Fest (January 22nd through 25th 2015, www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest) offers a weekend of everything from string band music and traditional blues to rock ’n‘ roll and the latest soca, all right on the beach.

SEPTEMBER 2014

Dominica’s World Creole Music Festival was launched in 1997 to promote Creole music and in the years since, it has embraced related styles from Zouk to Zydeco

PAGE 25

With a mix of ticketed and free shows, the Bequia Music Fest’s offerings sample the spectrum from steel pan to blues and soul The trendsetting St. Lucia Jazz Festival (April 30th through May 10th, www.stluciajazz.org) draws both local talent and top-name acts from around the globe, performing at various venues including outdoors at Pigeon Island National Landmark, just steps from the Pigeon Island anchorage.

Film Festivals If you love the cinema, choose among the Curaçao International Film Festival (www1.curacaoiffr.com), the Puerto Rico International Film Festival (April 13th through 19th, www.rinconfilm.com), and the St. Barth Caribbean Film Festival (www.stbarthff.org) — all happening in April.

Food Festivals Why not celebrate food? There are festivals for foodies as diverse as Caribbean cuisine. There’s a Mango Festival, an Indian Food Festival, a Yam Festival, a Grenada Chocolate Festival (www.caribbeanandco.com/grenada-chocolate-festival), and of course a Rum Festival. There’s even a Calabash Festival in Montserrat — you can’t eat these gourd-like fruits, but you can serve food in their dried shells! Here’s a taste of what’s on the menu: Tobago hosts a “Blue Food” Festival at the coastal village of Bloody Bay. “Blue food” refers to the popular root crop dasheen, which takes on a blue or purplish tinge when cooked. The Blue Food Festival attracts both locals and visitors to try traditional and brand-new dishes prepared by local chefs. This year’s event is October 19th.

—Continued on next page

rival ‘La Magwit’ society, while praising the chantwelle’s own society, and are sung in Kwéyòl to background music played on banjos, violins and traditional St. Lucian instruments.

“The festival is presided over by a king and a queen, who are attended by an entourage of dukes, duchesses, princes, princesses, soldiers, policemen, magistrates, doctors, nurses, clergy and supporters of the Rose. La Marguerite Festival takes place in October, following the same well-structured protocol. The parades are wonderful to watch, colourful, musical and deeply traditional. Visitors are encouraged to come along and take part in the festivities.”

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 26

SALLY ERDLE

Breadfruit has been a staple of the Caribbean diet ever since being introduced by Captain Bligh of Mutiny on the Bounty fame. On January 23rd, 1793 Captain William Bligh anchored the HMS Providence off Kingstown, St. Vincent and completed his ambition of bringing breadfruit plants to the Caribbean from Tahiti. A Breadfruit Festival (www.discoversvg.com) is held annually on St. Vincent; every weekend during August, the festival takes place in different communities throughout the island.

Admission to the events is free. A variety of dishes made from breadfruit are exhibited and offered for sale, and Vincentians and visitors are encouraged to support the farmers and to eat local.

In addition, many fishing villages on different islands, such as Anse La Raye on St. Lucia, host regular Fish Fridays, when a street is blocked to traffic in the evening and vendors fill the space with offerings of seafood meals.

Finally, try some lionfish if you come across a Lionfish Derby! After the catch of the day is brought ashore, often there will be “tastings” of lionfish prepared in a number of innovative ways.

Special Holidays In the Caribbean you can enjoy all the usual holidays — Christmas, New Year’s Eve/Old Year’s Night (with fireworks in many places), Bastille Day on the French islands — as well as some you might not be familiar with.

Having had a history of slavery, most places in the Caribbean celebrate an Emancipation Day. In Suriname, Keti Koti (“the chains are cut”) is celebrated every year on July 1st, when a joyous atmosphere prevails. The festivities are concentrated around the Palmentuin public garden in Paramaribo. People dress festively Fish Friday at Anse La Raye, St. Lucia. in colourful panjis (a piece of cloth worn Other popular Fish Friday street party as a skirt) and headscarves called anisas, venues include Gouyave in Grenada famous for their traditional secret meanand Oistins in Barbados ings — such as the “Kiss-my-ass anisa”!

In St. Lucia, August 30th is “Fet La Woz” — the Feast of the Rose — a cultural tradition originating in slavery days when co-operative work groups adopted different flowers as their symbols. These evolved into two main singing societies, the Roses and the Marguerites. As explained in St. Lucia’s tourism magazine Tropical Traveller, Fet La Woz features “fêtes and parades across the island, colourful and elaborate events full of pomp and pageantry. In preparation, there are several months of nightly singing practices, known as ‘séances’. A special female singer, or ‘chantwelle’, is appointed by the group, and it is her job to compose all the songs to be sung at the festival. These songs lightly mock the

KWÉYÒL SENT LISI

—Continued from previous page

A special annual holiday unique to St. Lucia is Fet La Woz Divali is the beautiful Hindu Festival of Lights, following a tradition brought to the islands by indentured laborers from India in the 19th century. (See more details on page 39.) Celebrated in a big way in Trinidad, the date of Divali changes annually.

This year it falls on October 23rd; in 2015 in will be on November 11th.

Where to Be Next Summer?

Let’s not think about that yet!

Note: All information was correct to the best of our knowledge as this issue on Compass went to press. But dates change and events come and go, so please doublecheck dates and venues before committing to be in a certain place at a certain time.

This article mentions just a smattering of the wide array of places and events you might find of interest, so stray tuned to future issues of Compass. Don’t miss our comprehensive Annual Calendar of Events in the January 2015 issue. Meanwhile, happy planning for a fabulous 2014-2015 season!

Drop Anchor and Escape

The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s the other way around. The prevailing warm and soothing northeast trade winds provide ideal sailing conditions. Yet, it’s Saint Lucia’s breathtaking scenery that attracts the finest yachts from around the world. Drop anchor near the majestic peaks of Petit and Gros Piton. Rodney Bay invites a night on the town. Or choose Marigot Bay for a chic excursion.

Must-see dive spots abound, and there are plenty of hidden bays where you’ll create your own Caribbean mystique. Of course, no getaway would be complete without exploring the luxurious side of Saint Lucia through its restaurants, shopping, and resorts. Immerse yourself in a luxe yachting adventure in simply beautiful Saint Lucia.

E-mail: information@stlucia.org Saint Lucia: 758 452 4094 www.stlucianow.com France: 33 1 45 32 0254 www.stlucianow.com

USA: 1800 456 3984 www.stlucianow.com UK: 44 207 341 7000 www.stlucianow.co.uk

Canada: 1800 869 0377 www.stlucianow.ca Germany: 49 6172 4994 138 www.jetzt-saintlucia.de

SEAWISE WITH DON STREET LUKA RONE

Over Reliance on Electronic Navigation, or Keeping Marine Salvors in Business!

A very expensive grounding occurred a few years ago. A Swan 90 was leaving Antigua’s Nonsuch Bay via Spithead Channel. It ran hard aground on the lee side of the channel, which is a vertical coral wall: the depth goes from 35 to five feet in the space of ten yards. This

none of these groundings would have happened. Take a look at Imray Iolaire chart A271, both front and back. Before the days of GPS and chart plotters, my engineless Iolaire left Nonsuch Bay via Spithead Channel dozens of times.

NICHOLAS FULLER

Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils

Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear

Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia z Tel: (758) 452 0299 z Fax: (758) 452 0311 z e-mail: hardware@candw.lc

PAGE 27

With all the electronic aids to navigation available to the yachtsman today, one would think that grounding should be a thing of the past and marine salvors should be out of business. But marine salvors are doing fine. Between them, Nick Fuller and John Bentley have pulled about two dozen boats off the reefs on both sides of Spithead Channel. Nick has even expanded his salvage business by buying a second boat.

The development of GPS, chart plotters and electronic charts has greatly expanded the number of sailors cruising the Caribbean who do not consult paper charts. Many do not even have a paper chart on board. (This is underscored by the fact that the sales of Imray Iolaire paper charts have fallen off drastically, but the royalties paid to Imray for the use of the Imray Iolaire charts of the Eastern Caribbean and Atlantic islands by Navionics, Garmin, Jeppeson and Map Media are increasing by leaps and bounds.)

Many “push-button” sailors now feel that it is not

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

grounding cost the yacht’s insurance company about US$800,000 in total — including a salvage operation involving Nick Fuller with Nicole, John Bentley with Sea Pony and Hugh Bailey’s tug — and ended the boat’s plans for the Pacific cruise.

The skipper was reportedly using his electronic chart plotter rather than eyeball navigation.

Similarly, there have been numerous “fathometer controlled” groundings caused by crews continually watching the fathometer rather than the color of the water. Coral reefs frequently come up as vertical walls and coral heads will rise out of 20 feet of water. The fathometer, mounted well forward, records 20 feet then switches to five feet as the keel hits the coral head. There is no time to react to this sudden change of depth if only watching the fathometer.

Groundings are all too often caused because yachtsmen have forgotten that for inshore navigation the best instrument in the world is the one God gave us all at birth: “Eyeball Mark 1”. With a good bow lookout,

SEPTEMBER 2014

‘Groundings are all too often caused because yachtsmen have forgotten that for inshore navigation the best instrument in the world is the one God gave us: “Eyeball Mark 1”’

necessary to really learn navigation. True, celestial navigation is no longer needed, but basic piloting skills are still essential for safety when entering or leaving harbors and minimizing the pain of inter-island passages. The arts of dead reckoning, plotting positions on a paper chart, learning to visualize where you are on the chart, eyeball piloting via hand-bearing compass, the use of good binoculars, and judging the depth of water by the color have not been learned by all too many modern sailors who are cruising and racing in the Caribbean.

In the past, one of the major limitations of GPS was the fact that the GPS position might be correct but the chart had not been recalibrated to WGS 84. This caused the total loss of some boats, the grounding of others and bad scares on yet more boats. Many of the government and privately printed charts were not recalibrated to WGS 84 until about 2000. Imray Iolaire charts of the Eastern Caribbean and the Atlantic islands are now all set up so you can plot GPS positions directly on the chart. (The one exception where GPS cannot be plotted directly on the chart is D22, Los Roques. On this chart it is noted that the position must be moved 0.10 minute north [60’] and 0.13 minutes east [78’] when plotting.)

The electronic charts are NOT necessarily an absolute reproduction of the Imray Iolaire chart. A Raster chart as done by Meridian Chartware is available on a memory stick. It is an exact replica of the Imray Iolaire charts that can be brought up on your laptop. Vector charts are produced by a human running a computer who decides how much information he or she will pull from the chart and use in the electronic chart. Not only is information sometimes deleted, but also sometimes mistakes are made. Garmin, Navionics, Jeppeson and Map Media are all vector charts.

A 0.7 millimetre pencil line on a 1/90,000 scale chart (the scale of the Imray Iolaire B32 Grenada chart) is 56 feet wide. My handheld Garmin GPS tells me the accuracy that can be expected from the readout. Depending on how many satellites are being tracked and the alignment of the satellites, accuracy will vary from almost 100 feet down to, at best, about 30 feet. Entering harbors or short tacking along the coast of various islands, eyeball navigation is needed rather than GPS. Fathometers, GPS, electronic chart plotters and electronic charts are excellent aids to navigation as long as they are backed up by a paper chart, which is on deck, folded so the blow-up inset of the harbor you are entering is in front of the pilot/helmsman. That wonderful navigational instrument Eyeball Mark 1 — one eye on the fathometer the other on the color of the water — plus a hand-bearing compass, backed up by a good lookout on the bow, will keep you out of trouble. Standing on top of the bow pulpit enables the bow lookout to judge the depth of water better than standing on deck. If there is a lookout on the lower spreaders, all the better.

—Continued on next page

hove to for the night.

In my long and varied cruising career I have had a number of other cases where I hove to and waited for dawn before entering. In three different cases, if I had not waited, we would have been in serious trouble, as breakwaters had been extended — but the leading

—Continued from previous page If steps are installed to the lower spreaders, it will become second nature to send a lookout aloft whenever entering a difficult anchorage. Judging depths and spotting coral heads from that height is easy.

Do not enter strange harbors at night. A night entry, even into a harbor you know, is still difficult, as so many boats do not exhibit anchor lights, others exhibit confusing lights, lights ashore make it difficult to

me to the square protractor. It has degrees on the edges with parallel lines in the center section and a small hole in the center. Plop it down anywhere on the chart and the parallel lines for the little squares in the body of the protractor will allow you to line the protractor with the chart, enabling you to plot bearings.

This is available from Weems & Plath, catalogue #2082 (sales@weems-plath.com).

The plastic square has replaced the two plastic triangles.

For speed, distance and time plotting, use the nautical slide rule (Weems & Plath catalogue #105). This simple plastic calculator was invented by the US Navy before WWII and the design has been unchanged for 80 years. It is much easier and faster to solve speed, time and distance problems with this slide rule than it is with a pocket calculator or GPS. I have never been to sea without having one of these nautical plotters in my gear.

With the aid of the above basic tools you can plot

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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ALL PHOTOS: WEEMS & PLATH

pick up buoy and range/transit lights, and hitting unlit channel buoys always causes damage.

I learned this lesson early in my career, back in 1963. My late wife, Marilyn, and I arrived off St. Thomas Harbor at night. Since I had been sailing in and out of St Thomas Harbor for seven years I was not worried by a night entry. While I was up forward getting the anchor ready to drop, I noticed little flickering white lights where there should not be any lights. I went aft, pulled out our ever-faithful Bausch & Lomb 7x50 night glasses and saw that the flickering white lights were marking dredge pipes stretched across the harbor. The dredging they had been talking about for the previous five years had finally started! We did a quick tack, headed out to sea, and

Some old-school navigation tools that will never go on the blink: a nautical slide rule, and either two triangular protractors or a square protractor.

Coastal navigation classes are available in person, in books and online lights had not been altered and they led right into the extended breakwater!

To do basic piloting, some tools are necessary. They are few and not too expensive: a “hockey puck” handbearing compass; a square protractor; a simple speed, distance and time calculator; and a pair of dividers that are operable with one hand.

Forget about parallel rules. Early on, I learned that two right triangles that are also protractors were much easier to use.

Then, one of Iolaire’s sailing apprentices introduced

your position on a paper chart. By learning to do so, by learning to “read” the water by color (eyeball navigation) and by not entering harbors at night, you can increase your safety margin exponentially — and maybe put those salvors out of business!

PRODUCT POSTINGS Barnacle Blocker You’ve hauled out and painted your boat’s bottom. So far, so good. But barnacle growth on the prop is a perpetual problem.

What to do? Try Barnacle Blocker from Sea Hawk Paints. It’s a zinc-free aerosol spray formulated for use on underwater metals including steel, cast iron, copper, bronze, galvanized steel, lead, and aluminum. Barnacle Blocker is a self-cleaning anti-corrosive primer that provides an excellent barrier on underwater metal surfaces, reducing galvanic corrosion.

For more information about Sea Hawk Paints products see ad on page 13.

Easy Mosquito Nets for Portlights It’s late summer, rainy season in the Caribbean, and the mosquitoes are out in force. Keep them out of your boat! Mount Waterline Design’s new mosquito net on the portlight with the suction cups provided. Just open the port, attach the suction cups and fasten the mosquito net in place with the drawstring. On a portlight that opens inward, mount the mosquito net on the outside. The mosquito net is dense enough to keep small insects and gnats outside. The black polyester net with chromed steel frame fits most portlights up to 200x650 mm internal dimensions. Fold the mosquito net after use to one third of the size and store in the supplied storage bag.

For more information visit www.waterlinedesign.se.

SEPTEMBER 2014

Jimmy Cornell Chooses Rocna Anchor With a design philosophy of maximum reliability, security, and durability, Rocna Anchors from Canada Metal (Pacific) Ltd. deliver superlative performance over the long haul. The company is a proud supplier partner for sailor Jimmy Cornell and his new yacht Aventura in the Blue Planet Odyssey around-the-world sailing event.

Aventura is a 14.1 metric ton Garcia Exploration 45. The multipurpose 33-kilo Rocna 33 anchor onboard will keep her secure in remote anchorages. Blue Planet Odyssey, spearheaded by Cornell, seeks to raise awareness of the global effects of climate change.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

The Rocna anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith, who has been designing, building, and sailing boats since the early 1960s. Over 100,000 nautical miles of cruising, Smith experienced problems that are still prevalent today — needing to carry multiple anchors for various seabeds, yet still the anchors dragged. He designed the Rocna, initially for himself, to change the status quo. Rocna anchors are available in sizes from four to 275 kilos. A roll bar allows the anchor to always land at the ideal angle for penetration, without the need for fluke ballast, thus maximizing fluke surface area and holding power. Setting skids elevate the heel and correctly direct the tip for reliable setting even in soft seabeds. A sharp chisel tip, and a tip weight equal to approximately one third of the anchor’s weight, deliver an instant set every time. Rocna flukes contain no lead and cause minimal drag damage to the seabed. Thanks to a large fluke area and concave shape, these anchors deliver the highest possible holding power. A high-tensile steel shank facilitates self-launching.

For more information visit www.canmet.com.

Don’t Kick the Bucket!

A 19-litre bucket is useful for a variety of purposes aboard. But this common item can create issues if it slides around the deck, creating a hazard, a mess, or damage to deck surfaces. Shurhold Industries’ new Bucket Base is a sturdy ring designed to minimize bucket sliding and toppling.

Stopping problems before they happen, this nonskid, non-marking ring helps prevent scratches on fiberglass and teak, while keeping a bucket in place. A bucket full of wet paintbrushes, fish guts or worse won’t easily fall over. UV resistant and durable, Shurhold’s Bucket Base fits most 19-litre pails.

For more information visit www.shurhold.com.

GONE TO COME BACK On a trip down island by plane, ferry, yachts of old friends, she’s here catching up, explaining her absence only by her presence without the boat she’d lived aboard at one island or another for twenty years, solo,

Isla Po nd ets

an able attractive woman once married, once divorced she managed very well by herself, thank you, who had a face incised like a petroglyph Anne was always warm, polite, not one to linger, next stop Union or Carriacou, eh?

— Richard Dey

SEPTEMBER 2014

Mermaid Moments

ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) Seeing the humorous side of things will be the mainsail that powers you through any choppy seas of misunderstandings on your course this month.

When the world around me gets overwhelming, I submerge myself in the ocean.

Taking me back in time, I spread my wings and fly.

I am free, weightless, maneuvering my body like a mermaid natural to its surroundings.

A connection to an underwater world that has so much history, and yet there so much we still don’t understand.

Here there are no words, only music.

A vast ocean filled with the unknown.

A mystery to mankind.

A place where dreams and reality entwine.

A water world unique and full of life where creatures of different shapes and sizes gently move, where natural creativity and the impossible surround me.

This is where I call home; this is where I’m free.

GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) Although communications will be clear, an argumentative partner could make concentrating on any creative boat projects difficult.

CANCER (22 Jun - 23 Jul) Your enthusiasm for anything commercial or financial will be in the doldrums by the 14th, so spend the first two weeks of the month tying up those loose ends. Conversations with cruisers will be shifting from one tack to another, so just stay quiet and don’t be tempted to get into arguments.

LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug) Once again, your sense of humor will be an asset in nautical negotiations. This aspect will not hit its zenith until the fall of next year, so it’s going to be of great assistance throughout the coming seasons. Enjoy its helpful effects.

VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep) Devote your time to experimental onboard projects for the first three weeks. Your love life will enjoy a favorable breeze after the first week and will add VMG to your positive attitude and imagination.

LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) This is a good time to sort out areas of your boating life that require writing or verbal skills. Mercury is spending this time in Libra, and there’s nothing else in aspect with it to hold you back from reaching your desired landfall.

— Olivia Frank www.SeaUsSailing.com

SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov) Finish up any projects you started on board or in a marine-related business before the 14th, as when Mars moves out of Scorpio and into Sagittarius little things will cause you to be distracted.

SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec) The ability to laugh at yourself will be the jack stands supporting your personal relationships.

There are many details that could go wrong, so don’t tempt Murphy’s Law. Be frugal in expenditure of your time and energies.

CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan) Clear up any projects that are cluttering the decks before the 6th, when love sails in to blow work off course and take up all your time.

AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb) Even though finances might still be a slog to windward, you can pick up information that will be helpful in the future by exchanging ideas with crewmembers or boating acquaintances.

PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar) Set your course to concentrate on business and don’t let stormy emotions with your romantic interest do damage to your ingenuity.

KEN DYER

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PAGE 30

TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) Boat business could be rough going, but a loving relationship will sail right alongside to make for an ultimately pleasant voyage.

COMPASS FICTION

THE GARDEN OF EDEN

by Gerelyn John

WILFRED DEDERER

SEPTEMBER 2014 PAGE 31

Pushing all unpleasantness aside, which, of course, has no place in paradise, they let their gaze wander to the pastures beyond the river, to the gaulins patiently searching for worms in the grass and now and then seizing the opportunity to mount the back of some grateful cow which housed unwelcome ticks.

From where they sit they cannot see the horizon or even the mouth of the river, however, they are able to time the pounding of the waves on the projected mountain range, all the while observing the whispering river as she meanders with much anticipation into “the open arms of the sea”.

Estina, as if reading Adolphus’ thoughts, makes a complete turn of the head in the direction of the mountain range which runs directly behind them and which encompasses the valley. It is to the top of that mountain range that they look for the telltale signs of the imminence of rain. It was just to the left of that same mountain range that they used to witness evidence that their friend at the north of the island had belched emissions of smoke, lava and sulphur forming a cauliflower–like cloud during an eruption many years previously.

Shaking her apron and adjusting her skirt about her, Estina rises to her feet with Adolphus in unspoken compliance. “Like it going to rain,” they both say together and smile each one to himself. Yes, there are some tasks to be accomplished before the rain falls. Yes, even in paradise there is work to be done, pleasant work. They had noted sweet peppers that needed to be picked, a few full ripe tamarinds to be plucked for the grandchildren, a few heads of lettuce to be secured for the next day’s noon meal, two papaws to be reached a foot beyond arm’s length, passionfruits to be gathered for the morrow’s juice and a full pear or two to be picked and put to ripen.

They set about their tasks, reaching here, picking there and gathering here. All the while communicating with words unspoken, somewhat like a dentist and his dental nurse. They are accustomed to doing things like this together while working to beat the rain, for being wet in Eden isn’t quite comfortable. They had experienced it several times before when they had indulged themselves and sat much longer than planned, all the while ignoring the telltale signs on the mountain and in the end trying to huddle together under the tamarind tree.

Sitting in their Garden of Eden is their reward for all their hard work during the day, a much-deserved break from their daily chores. In their Garden there is no radio and most certainly no television to shatter the serenity, to compete with the sounds of nature however subtle. Nothing to remind them of all the sadness associated with all the struggles, crimes and diseases of the outer world, their garden allows them to be at one with nature, to encompass and appreciate all gifts no matter how small. In their garden there is a sense of healing, of being healed of being able to be healed from the pains in the knees, from headaches brought on by traffic screeching or the heavy pounding of construction work.

In their Garden they are virtually hidden, sitting there at the base of the coconut tree and taking in its shade and happy with the thought that the nuts above them are to be savoured and are ready for the picking. Yes, there they have to be called aloud in order to be summoned but their folks know better than unnecessarily attempting to shatter their relaxation, to rudely awaken them to a world where the telephone awaits.

They straighten their backs, having lifted their baskets. Together they once again navigate through whence they had come: among avocado trees, papaw trees, passionfruit vines, lettuce stands, sweet pepper plants, damsel trees, tamarind trees, to emerge from among the plantain roots to again stand on the border, looking now into that 7,765.13 square feet which marks the residential area of their domain.

They call simultaneously to those within the house to come relieve them of their gatherings. They wait some brief moments. Happy eager hands and feet emerge from the house. The rewards are carried within.

One necessary task is yet to be fulfilled as the approaching rain is heard in the distance. Hurriedly Estina and Adolphus begin to gather the crisply dried clothes from the line.

You now on your own, having shifted your interest. You are logging onto YouTube.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Google Earth, zoom in on the Caribbean, close in on an archipelago, a chain of islands, a multi-island state, focus on the largest of these islands, the mother island and rest, lift your hand from your mouse. You need look no further, for a scene is unfolding down below.

As if by appointment, Adolphus and Estina meet on the border which demarks the residential area of their 13,589 square feet of land from the much-cultivated area of 5,823.87 square feet. This area constitutes their virtual Garden of Eden.

Oblivious to any onlooker who may have chanced across them, be it grandchild, son, daughter, or neighbour, they hold hands and proceed, Estina a foot and a half behind Adolphus, to manoeuver themselves among the roots of plantain trees, tamarind trees, damsel trees, the sweet pepper plants, the lettuce stands, the passionfruit vines, the papaw trees, the avocado trees to arrive finally at the river’s edge where they sit on their simple but effective, humble yet practical seats. Estina takes the old metal frame of a former diningroom chair with a plank of wood placed across it while Adolphus makes himself happy on a flattish stone padded by coconut husks from some nuts that he had stripped some two days before. They are truly at one here, their souls merged. This occasion did not allow for personality clashes. No, not at all — in this setting that was unheard of. Any clashing of personalities would await their emergence on the residential side of their territory when some debatable issue might occasion to present itself. The flow of the river’s water over stones, some grey, some green with moss, lent itself to the peace and tranquillity conducive to the blending of souls and personalities.

After shifting and straightening her plank somewhat, her bottom now comfortably settled Estina turns to smile at her partner of some fifty-three years. Adolphus himself, only by now half settled, smiles back at her and asks, “What you thinking?” She knows there is no need to blurt out an answer; there is no need to hurry herself as time is on her side. Down here in her Garden it seems as if all the time in the world awaits her. Instead of answering she tosses a breadnut shell into the water, sending a large ripple on the surface of the big pool from which she hopes fish will emerge to show their silvery glint in the sunlight.

They both silently reflect on former times and on how much the course of the river and its terrain have changed. Simultaneously they think of when their young children would come to the water’s edge and throw sticks and have the thrill of the dogs retrieving them and would repeat the act over and over again. Together they think of when the youngsters plunged from the banks in their attempts to effect Olympic dives or just simply to throw “headers”.

They could see in their minds’ eye the women washing, beating their clothes loudly on the stones while their soapy suds circled and then decidedly aligned themselves for the long and disintegrating journey to the sea, all the while the young children tried to grab mullets and tadpoles in childish play in the calm and shallow water in the shadow of the eastern bank. Or there were those times when they both as parents would have to sit anxiously in the house and watch the river swell its banks and come up and overflow into the yard, dragging in its wake any objects which lay loosely and unsecured in the yard.

The children, too, with anxious delight would have stood on bed heads and dressing tables to see the muddy water behave like waves of the sea on the furrowed cultivated land of the neighbouring plot. These waters were not empty but brought with them loads of wood for roasting breadfruit for months to come. The couple smilingly remembered that, following one occasion when the river had swept forcefully across their yard, bringing much inland silt, and had covered over the otherwise mud yard and whatever paved areas there were, the children had pleaded for the yard to remain like that, like a beach. But alas for the children, the Government had come and put big wire baskets packed with stones and tied to each other to form a wall, a river defence. Within this wall trees and shrubs had wedged themselves over the years, making it even more firmly grounded.

They both raise their eyes from the waters where they were constantly thrilled by the diving and surfacing of fish as they threw each shell into the water while savouring every breadnut that went into their mouths. Through breadnut pulp Estina mouths, “You remember a few years ago when all up there was just trees?” Adolphus, only after carefully swallowing his mouthful, replies, “Yeah, I used to like to watch, especially in January coming on to dry weather, the different colours of the leaves on the trees on the hill.” Then with synchronized thoughts they say aloud, “But all those houses up there spoil that now.” They laugh out loud and jostle each other to aid the stamping off of black biting ants that have ambitiously come to secure breadnut, which somehow amid the laughter and chatter, had escaped their mouths.

They speak at length of the children, of those who had married and moved off on their own, and of how well they were doing and how they seemed to have been able to “hold their own together” within their respective marriages. They speak of those still at home, about their desires and challenges, about the grandchildren who will come to visit and how well they are all growing up to become responsible and decent citizens based on the values that they had as parents first and foremost instilled in their own children and which have, as a result, naturally filtered down to the grandchildren.

They speak of changing times, of changes in the economy. They both miss the times, those good old days, when a dollar had great value and could have bought them so much, enough bread for supper and breakfast and also, from that same dollar, cakes to share for the entire family! They laugh that the shopkeepers met the needs of customers and sold half a pound of sugar and for the benefit of school children, half a pencil.

They speak of changes in attitudes among the young and old alike and changes in values.

They speak of changes in technology, of the time when there was only one telephone in the entire neighbourhood and later the creeping in of a black-and-white television or two. They remember with amusement years ago when you had to dress and catch a bus to go into Town to send a telegram to England or to make an international telephone call locked away in a booth within the company’s office after graciously awaiting your turn. Nowadays the youngsters are talking to their friends in Japan right from their toilet seats at the other end of the world! This thought again

brought much chuckle.

“People not even writing letters much these days again,” Adolphus remarks. “Nor even sending postcards,” Estina interjects. “You know Adolphus, Frederick was showing his mother how to send postcards on the computer; I don’t know what they will think of next.”

Whatever technology would come up with next, they were sure, was not going to be allowed to shatter the moments they share in Eden. Estina reminds Adolphus, however, that the grandchildren were speaking of this thing Google Earth, where persons might be able to see you in your own yard. Adolphus giggles, “Thankfully we not naked.” Estina agrees wholeheartedly that it is indeed a very good thing that they could enjoy their paradise fully clothed. They chuckle again heartily then are momentarily lost, each one in his own private thoughts that are nevertheless thoughts of each other. These thoughts run long and deep, deep like the deep pool just above which they sit. Such thoughts are not even broken by the passing evidence of present pollution that is being engendered farther upriver, a white plastic bag and two foam plates bobbing their way down to the sea to harm the much valued but endangered marine life. The passing of a third foam plate is too much not to awaken Adolphus from his subconscious state. He blurts, “You see, Estina, the same thing I have been saying: people must be careful about how they dispose of their garbage.” He vows that he will be doing something about it, he will nip it in the bud so to speak, this bad habit on the part of a non-caring, worthless few before it gets out of hand. He will go in to the relevant authorities on his very next visit to Town on Friday to collect his pension. He lets his eyes wander to find the nearest of two “No Dumping” signs that have had to be placed on the opposite banks of the river where about four years ago “outsiders” in the early hours of the morning were caught dumping their garbage over the banks and into the water. Now it is as though the “enemy” is using the unsuspecting waterway to infiltrate their paradise. He remains, jaws clenched with emotion, while Estina observes him closely with much warmth in her eyes. He catches her stare, smiles encouragingly and pats her hand, which covers his left knee.

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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WHAT BUGS YOU THE MOST? Cruising is a lifestyle envied by many — but cruisers know that it’s not all a bed of frangipanis with umbrella drinks on the side and Jimmy Buffett crooning softly in the background.

What bugs you most about cruising, and what (if anything) do you do about it?

Let us know at sally@caribbeancompass.com, and we’ll share the hideous truth with the world in a future issue of Compass!

SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

INGA BEITZ

PAGE 33

Cruising guides tend to have their own personalities, in addition to providing straight information. For example, Don Street’s guides are famous for his selfdescribed “amusing anecdotes” from the golden sailing days of yore, and Chris Doyle’s abound in quality original photography and up-to-date tips on what you can find ashore. Frank Virgintino’s Free Cruising Guides contain an abundance of historical and cultural context for the prospective visitor’s edification.

A Cruising Guide to Haiti goes to great lengths to explain significant elements of Haitian life, past and present, that the author feels might affect visiting cruisers (including a long and illustrated exposition on the impact of slavery and racism that will no doubt make some readers uncomfortable). Some readers will find this content interesting, important and thought provoking; others, who might find such extensive background material a bit discursive for their taste, can cut to the hard cruising information — and this information is an eye-opener. We’ve all heard of Ile-à–Vache by now, but who knew that there are scads more good, safe anchorages in Haiti?

Anyone who has been complaining about the Eastern Caribbean being “overcrowded”, but who thinks the Western Caribbean is too far away or too far downwind for their liking — heads up! Especially if you speak a few words of French and yearn for immersion in un-touristy Caribbean village life, Haiti might be the new cruising destination you’ve been looking for.

Haiti is Now an Open Book

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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VIRGINTINO

A Cruising Guide to Haiti, edition 3.0, by Frank Virgintino. Free Cruising Guides ©2014. E-book, 133 pages, color photos and chartlets throughout.

Frank Virgintino has been a fan of cruising in Haiti for years, and has introduced his passion for this seldom-visited cruising ground to Compass readers in a number of articles and reports, including the current series “Cruising Haiti Today”. Now, in one comprehensive book, Frank has compiled much of this familiar material along with a significant amount of additional detailed cruising information, sailing directions, waypoints, step-by-step chartlets, lots of photos, weather advice, notes on entry formalities, a bibliography, suggestions for further reading, and much more.

Full disclosure: The author has dedicated A Cruising Guide to Haiti to “All the cruising sailors who have a desire to sail far and wide. May this guide provide you with information to make your cruise interesting and worthwhile. A special dedication is also made to Sally Erdle and Tom Hopman, owners and publishers of the free monthly publication Caribbean Compass, for their tireless contribution to the art of cruising and for the many hours of hard work that made it all possible.”

In response, we can only say that everyone at Compass, like Frank and his team at Free Cruising Guides, gobbled up every bit of available information about destinations while we were cruising, and all of us are now enjoying “paying it forward”!

Frank also defies conventional cruising wisdom by again pointing out, as he has previously done in the pages of Compass, his belief that the Windward Passage makes the most sensible entry point into the Caribbean Sea for boats coming from Florida and farther north on the east coast of North America. In this case, coming through the Windward Passage from the north affords sailors the opportunity of stopping for exploration or just a night’s rest at harbors and anchorages along the Haitian side of the passage. These include Pointe-à-Perle (Bombardopolis), Baradères Bay, Pointe Sable (Grande Cayemite island) and Anse d’Hainault, before arriving at Ile-à-Vache.

Details of anchorages along Haiti’s north and south shores are also given.

In addition to “spreading the word” about Haiti to sailors, Frank Virgintino has organized a “Flora Flotilla” to take supplies and equipment to the orphanage at Ileà-Vache, supported the non-profit Friends of Ile-à-Vache and, along with the Seven Seas Cruising Association, is the force behind “Second Life Sails”, which collects and delivers used yacht sails to Haitian fishermen. Now, A Cruising Guide to Haiti’s overview material on Haiti’s history and culture combined with its quantity of concrete cruising information should definitely contribute to an upturn in the number of boats cruising there.

This book is available as a free downloadable PDF from www.freecruisingguides. com and is also for sale in a formatted version at US$10.99 from e-book stores such as Amazon.

BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER

How the Tuckers Came to Trinidad As Flies to Whatless Boys, by Robert Antoni. Akashic Books, ©2013, Paperback, 315 pages. ISBN-13: 978-1-61775-156-1.

FREE CRUISING GUIDES

www.freecruisingguide.com Compliments of:

Marina Zar-Par

Boca Chica, Dominican Republic www.marinazarpar.com

Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com, Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more than 200 issues of Caribbean Compass.

Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes and The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine, the pieces in this collection resonate and sparkle in a very different way, offering new pleasures.

Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked — the collection is sure to spark ideas in both cruising sailors and armchair dreamers.”

US$8.95 Read a preview and order Cruising Life now at www.amazon.com!

PAGE 35

The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Novelist Robert Antoni’s glowing writing makes As Flies To Whatless W Boys a particularly entertaining read. It’s lively, impish, side-splittingly funny and engaging.

Antoni playfully laces his text with a lush array of the Trinidadian lingo that is a joy to the eye and ear. However, the text is interspersed with newspaper clippings, letters, maps, footnotes, and messages between the “author” and his “researcher” Ms. Ramsol from the National Archive — all of which hampers the flow of the story and makes it seem directionless at times.

Antoni recounts master con man John Adolphus Etzler’s idea of founding a new society, the Tropical Emigration Society (TEC), for English families in the colony of Trinidad, West Indies. But Etzler’s utopian dream turned out to be just one more of his madcap schemes that Antoni delves into.

Etzler was always running from his creditors and had even served time in jail. He was a “funny little man with a big beard and piercing eyes and a face consisting of 50 percent brooding forehead. Shaped like a sucked mango seed. A squeaky voice that whistled when he got excited — which was most of the time — and the more excited the harder he was to decipher with the German accent. But he had the gift: boldface bamboozlement. Shameless mongooseeocity… Two things he always dreamt about: a disenchanted populace ready to embrace his ideas for change and emigration, a people anxious to line he pockets too….”

And this is where and how, in the 19th century, the Tucker family — with Willy, the novel’s 15-year-old narrator, his parents and three sisters, Georgina, Mary and Amelia — comes into the story and ends up in Trinidad. Willy’s father was a member of the Chartists, a London-based underground group that had been defeated in “fighting down the Crown for all the charters to improve working conditions for the labouring poor, in addition to voting rights….”

The book opens with ‘First Message’ to the author from Ms. Ramsol from the National Archives in Trinidad, thanking him for his “generous offer to donate the letters and maps and personal writings — a notebook from 1845 you say? — of your great-great grandfather on your mother’s side, WILLIAM SANGER TUCKER, to the Permanent Collection of the Trinidad & Tobago National Archives.”

This is followed by “3 Letters” and “Preamble: Awaiting the Tide” which finds Willy as a grown man with a wife and children of his own, being seen off by his son in Trinidad on board a ship taking him back to England for the first time after 36 years.

Willy “aside from being the owner of an expansive shipping line in the West Indies” has become an accomplished taxidermist and he’s going to give a series of “lectures on techniques for preserving and displaying hummingbirds”.

While waiting on the vessel to sail Willy relates to his son the events that made his father join the TEC movement and embark on the journey to Trinidad: “He took out his old-fashioned pocketwatch, fastened to his vestcoat buttonhole by a long goldchain. He clicked it open — “Almost eight o’clock already.

“He nodded his chin at the watch — “I might have mentioned to you, son, that this pocket watch once belonged to a gentleman named Mr. Whitechurch. A close friend of Papee’s. He came over with his wife & niece & the rest of us on this same ship with Etzler.

“My father paused a beat — “That niece became my first love. Marguerite. Only woman besides you mum I’ve ever been bazodee over my whole life.

“He paused again — “You never imagine telling you own son such intimate details that took place even before he was born. But I couldn’t give you this story without telling you about Marguerite. I couldn’t make a start. Couldn’t finish neither.”

And so Willie’s young son listens, as Willie continues to relate his relationship with Marguerite, the events that transpired during the voyage that brought his family from England to the tropics, and those that occurred on their landing in Trinidad.

In As Flies to Whatless Boys Antoni has blended a migratory tale with a comingof-age story in which deception, high ideals, the stark realities of life, and the difficult choices between love and family obligation form part of his very interesting narrative, delightfully told, about how the Tucker family came to settle in Trinidad.

SEPTEMBER 2014

Dominican Republic Cayman Islands Haiti Cuba Jamaica Trinidad ABC Islands Puerto Rico Lesser Antilles in 3 volumes

LOOK OUT FOR…

BANANAS

They’re Botanically Confusing!

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 36

by Lynn Kaak

As you travel through the Caribbean, every month there’s something special to look out for. This month, keep your eyes open for banana plants. Look for them by the hundreds in big plantations and singly in residential gardens.

It isn’t very surprising that bananas are found everywhere in the Caribbean. It’s the fourth largest fruit crop in the world, and a major component of the local diet.

Bananas flourish in the reasonably moderate temperatures of the tropics, provided that the soil has good drainage, and that they get enough water. Originating in Southeast Asia, they have travelled around the world very successfully, becoming a staple in many cultures.

To be completely accurate, or at least to possibly win a bet, know that bananas don’t actually grow on trees, but on herbaceous plants. And to make things even more confusing, the banana fruiting body is technically a berry. Strawberries and raspberries aren’t true berries, but tomatoes, avocadoes and bananas are! However, let’s get back to the tropics.

Like many fruits, there are a number of varieties of bananas. Plantains, with their squared-off edges, are recognizable, as are the “bluggos, specials, fingers, dessert and fig” bananas. The names may not be the same from island to island, but once you are able to recognize them, you will know what they are good for. Plantains really aren’t made to be eaten raw, while other bananas can be enjoyed out of hand or cooked.

They begin as a trunk that is made of layers of leaves. The true stalk pushes up through this trunk ten to 15 months after planting. This centre stalk becomes the flowering part of the plant. The flowers appear in groups, with the first ones becoming the fruit. Others may also develop, but eventually drop off. Each stalk creates only one flower cluster, then dies off. Farmers will often cut the plant down after the mature bananas are harvested, since it won’t produce any more fruit.

Some commercial varieties of bananas can yield as much as 100 pounds (45 kg) but a 30 to 40 pound (nine to 13 kg) yield is more typical.

The leaves can grow as large as nine feet long in some varieties, making bananas a pleasant ornamental shade plant as well.

Bananas are not just tasty and versatile, they are good for you. They are an excellent source of potassium and vitamins A, C and B-6.

Sautéed with a little butter and rum, they are pretty hard to resist.

THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY!

The Sky from Mid-September to Mid-October FIGURE 1

by Jim Ulik

Fomalhaut’s brightness ranks 18th among the stars

FIGURE 2

SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

The size of the minor planet Ceres compared to the Caribbean Basin FIGURE 3

PAGE 37

Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently based in Grenada.

INSERT: NASA AND THE ESA

Have you seen a UFO? “I’m sure the universe is full of intelligent life. It’s just been too intelligent to come here,” suggests Arthur C. Clarke, science writer. On the other hand, Twilight Zone fans might remember the episode “To Serve Man” with the famous line, “It’s a cookbook!” If you look in the night sky and see something unfamiliar it could be a satellite passing overhead, as was touched upon in my column last month. Maybe it was an iridium flare or an unusual twinkling of a star. Iridium flares derive their names from the Iridium Communications satellites that reflect the Sun’s rays off the satellite’s solar panels. Other non-Iridium satellites can also be a source of this phenomenon. The time and location of the flares can be predicted in advance for any place on Earth. The flares are localized and typically last from ten to 20 seconds. For example, from mid-September to mid-October there will be 62 Iridium flares (15 bright) occurring in the area of St. George’s, Grenada. There will be 159 flares (30 bright) in the area of Christiansted, St. Croix.

Saturday, September 20th Just after the Sun sets, look for the bright star Spica in the west. See if you can spot Mercury. It will be one half degree south of Spica. Mercury is 60 percent illuminated tonight so you might need a pair of binoculars to locate it. Look higher in the sky and you will find Mars less than six degrees from Antares. When the Full Moon is at its closest orbital point to the Earth it has come to be reported as a supermoon. Today the Moon is a mini- or micro-moon because it is at its farthest point from Earth.

Sunday, September 21st The Piscid meteor shower will reach its maximum rate of activity. The meteors will appear from the east in the Pisces constellation. The Genesis II satellite will pass near Pisces, moving south to north between 2112 and 2115 hours. Genesis II was launched by a private company. Bigelow Aerospace is testing and validating the technologies necessary to construct and deploy a full-scale, crewed, commercial orbital space complex. A Madagascar hissing cockroach is one of the items in its payload. What? Really? That is not tough science.

Everyone knows that cockroaches can survive everywhere. But why introduce them into space? They will likely find their own way onto some spacecraft!

Monday, September 22nd It is the autumnal equinox and the Sun crosses over to the southern hemisphere. Satellite flares increase for a couple of weeks during this time because of their orientation in space. The solar panels on the satellites are perpendicular to the equatorial plane and the Sun is on the same plane so the light is reflected back to Earth at nearly 100 percent. The geostationary satellites are in the Clarke Belt (named because Arthur C. Clarke in 1945 described in detail how such an orbit could be used for global communications). The first satellite launched for geosynchronous orbit was in 1964, 19 years later.

It was in Persia that an ancient astronomer named four key stars in the heavens. That was back in 2582 BC. Astronomy is the second oldest profession in the world but not as well paid as the first! Those four stars were associated with the four cardinal directions, Aldebaran (east), Fomalhaut (south), Regulus (north) and Antares (west). Fomalhaut also signified the autumnal equinox. Later the stars were given the religious connotation of Archangel Stars.

Fomalhaut, mouth of the fish, is in the constellation Piscis Austrinus. Fomalhaut, a triple star, was one of the first star systems known with a planet and a disk of dust around it. That could be a sign that more planets might form there. Figure 1 shows Formalhaut marking true south as it crosses the 180-degree celestial meridian at 2257 hours.

Saturday, October 4th Look for Saturn in the west about 20 degrees above the horizon at 1831 hours. It will be ten degrees below and 20 degrees north of Mars. There you will find the direction of the minor planet Ceres. It is within one half degree of Saturn. Ceres’ orbit lies between the orbits of Mars and Jupiter. Scientists with the European Space Agency (ESA) have estimated that Ceres may have more water than all the fresh water on Earth. That could mean that the minor planet could serve as a way station for planetary exploration missions. The Dawn spacecraft (NASA) left the giant asteroid Vesta on September 2012 and is scheduled to arrive at Ceres around March 2015. Dawn will study the composition of Ceres and create a 3D map of its surface.

Wednesday, October 8th The beginning of the second lunar eclipse for 2014 begins at 0515 hours. You might see one third of the eclipse before the Moon reaches the horizon at 0557. You would see slightly more eclipse if you were west of the line connecting Aruba and Puerto Rico. Plan your Full Moon party or dinghy drift for early morning because the Full Moon is at 0651.

Wednesday, October 8th and Thursday, October 9th The Full Moon may make it tough to find but the Draconids Meteor Shower will reach its peak. Start looking for any shooting stars at dusk before the Moon gets too high. The source will be from the north about 340 degrees. They will appear from the dragon’s head in the constellation Draco. The number of meteors has been hard to predict. They can number anywhere from one to two per hour or more than 100.

In the News The Arecibo Observatory in Puerto Rico detected a Fast Radio Burst of unknown origin. That detection confirms the findings of the Parkes Observatory radio telescope in Australia. Dan Thornton, a PhD candidate at the University of Manchester in England, suggests that these “fast radio bursts”, or FRBs, probably occur as often as every ten seconds or so, nearly 10,000 times a day. All that’s known is that the signals originated from beyond the Milky Way galaxy. The signals are unlike any known astronomical phenomena. *All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few minutes in different Caribbean locations.

The radio telescope at Arecibo in Puerto Rico, listening to outer space

How To Get Totally Conched Out, Ultra Style!

by Bill and JoAnne Harris

During our spectacular travels for the last five years throughout the bountiful Atlantic and Caribbean waters aboard our trimaran, Ultra, we have enjoyed many seafood delights. One of our all-time favorites is conch! We enjoy hunting for them as much as eating them. We have had fun teaching other people how to hunt and clean them, too. The first year out, JoAnne was dubbed The Conch Hunter, for her eagle eye and success in finding conch. While snorkeling, we keep an eye out for shallow grassy areas and conch tracks on the sandy seafloor. The beauty of it is conch cannot move fast!

Our rule is to only collect the adult conchs, meaning the lip (beautiful pink part of the shell) must be several inches wide. We want the conch to be able to reproduce and we never take the young ones. If everyone did that, there would no longer be any conch left in the sea. Unfortunately, we have witnessed some islands where this rule was not followed and there are hardly any conch left.

It is important to also only take the conch that you will consume for the day. Some

masonry hammer, then a claw hammer will work.

• Use a screwdriver rather than a knife so that you do not waste the meat and cut the adductor muscle (a.k.a. “tail” of the conch).

• To remove the conch from its shell, hold the operculum (a.k.a. foot) firmly and pull. Take care not to pull too hard, or you might tear off the foot and then it will be more work to try to remove the meat.

• Use a fillet knife to remove the organs and all the black skin. Tip: This is the most difficult part of the process. You make slits just under the black skin and remove the skin by cutting away from you, but take care not to cut yourself. You will then be left with a perfect pinkish-white conch steak.

Captain Bill’s Method: Lacking fish skinners, he makes cuts lengthwise and then peels back the skin with his front teeth. Works like a charm!

• Follow the delicious recipe below to cook your conch to perfection! Enjoy!

Tips: An environmentally friendly way to remove the conch slime from your tools and hands is to use sand and saltwater.

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 38

Ultra’s Conch Fritter Recipe This is an approximate recipe, since we invented our own!

4 to 6 conch steaks (We like to use lots of conch, so the fritters taste more like conch than dough) 1 can of beer 4 teaspoons of baking powder 2 Cups of flour salt and pepper a couple of dashes of Tabasco 1 bell pepper, diced 1/2 red onion, diced red pepper flakes to add some color and kick to the mix Tenderize the conch steaks with a mallet and then dice the meat. Set aside.

Mix remaining ingredients. The batter should be the consistency of biscuit mix; if it is too stiff you can add a bit of water or more beer and if too liquid you can add a few Tablespoons of flour.

Add diced conch. Let stand for a moment so it can rise a bit.

In a large pot, heat sufficient Canola oil that is deep enough so that the fritters will come out round rather than flat. Spoon small spoonfuls of batter into hot oil. They will grow from the baking powder and beer. Fry until golden brown and drain on paper towel.

The traditional Bahamian sauce for conch fritters is ketchup and mayonnaise mixed together until it is pink and then spiced with a dash of Tabasco. Or you can make a mayonnaise, lime juice and spicy mustard sauce.

Enjoy!

Top: Bill with the conch of his dreams…

Left: JoAnne ‘The Conch Hunter’ displays a couple of mature specimens, known by their wide flaring lips. Don’t take any that do not have this feature: they are babies Below: The meat, ready to be prepared to perfection islands have laws that you cannot have more than 6 in your freezer at a time. Be sure to check the island fishing laws for cruisers, since some islands forbid cruisers from taking any fish from the sea. Also be aware of closed seasons, which can be short, for example July and August in Antigua; a bit longer, such as June through September in Belize; or even longer — in Jamaica the season is closed from August until December!

Our first cruising year, while watching the Bahamian locals clean conch, we were told to eat the slimy clear tube: it would supposedly provide wonderful sexual benefits for us. Okay — one, two, three — we did it and chased it with a cold Kalik beer.

Furthermore, we were told conch is also known in these islands as Natural Viagra, sworn to enhance a man’s libido.

Tips: Look for a shell that looks as if it has seaweed dreadlocks vertically suspended from it, or any rocks that appear to move when you swim over them. They are usually conchs in disguise. We have free dived for conch in water 25 feet or more, but an abundance is normally found in the shallows. Islanders have told us that it is not safe to eat conch that come from waters over 30 feet deep.

If you see a hole in the top of the shell, the conch is no longer inside. If you turn over these conch shells, sometimes there are beautiful octopus or brittle stars inside, but there also can be nasty bristly fire worms, so be careful.

After you have followed the steps below to clean the conch, you are ready to prepare your conch to perfection. You can make the following delicious concoctions: ceviche, salads, stir-fries, cracked conch, pasta, tacos, chowder, and our very favorite — conch fritters.

To tenderize your conch, use a mallet, but be careful not to beat it too much. Also, a rum bottle will do the trick. Tip: Do it outside, as the conch juice might splatter all over the place.

In Grenada, we even threw a “Conched Out Party” at Port Louis Marina, hosted a fun cooking demonstration and served cracked conch, conch salad, stewed conch, and conch fritters.

Conch Cleaning • Use a masonry hammer to crack a hole in the conch shell between the second and third crowns from the pointed end. Make the hole big enough to insert a screwdriver. With this hammer style, you can just whack the shell. If you don’t have a

SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL

DELICIOUS FOR DIVALI Divali — the Hindu Festival of Lights celebrating the lifting of spiritual darkness — is one of the most interesting annual events held in Trinidad. Following a tradition brought to the islands by indentured laborers from India in the 19th century, the observant place an array of candles and small clay oil lamps all around their houses, creating a captivating scene. In some Trinidad villages, these displays are so famous that visitors come from all over to see the twinkling lights.

Families dress up, exchange gifts and perform puja to Lakshmi, the Goddess of Light and Prosperity. In Trinidad & Tobago, Divali (Diwali or Deepavali) is an official holiday that will be observed this year on October 23rd.

Family feasts featuring vegetarian dishes and sweets are a big part of the celebration. Here are some favorite Divali recipes — they are specialties of the holiday, but good anytime, anywhere!

SHIRLEY HALL (2)

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Ladoo 1 pound ground dhal (split peas) 1 Tablespoon baking powder 1/2 Cup evaporated milk 2 Cups water, divided 1 Cup vegetable oil for frying 2 Cups granulated sugar 1 can condensed milk 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves Mix dhal with baking powder, evaporated milk and one cup of water and let sit for two hours. Form into small balls and fry in vegetable oil. Using a mill or grinder, grind the balls coarsely.

PAGE 39

Mango Talkari 5 green but full mangoes (I prefer “long” mangoes) 2 cloves, garlic minced 1 Tablespoon salt

on the widest selection and the

Goolab Jamoon 1/2 pound butter 1 pound flour 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 can condensed milk 1/2 Cup evaporated milk 1 Cup vegetable oil for frying 2 Cups granulated sugar 4 Cups water Rub butter into flour and cardamom until crumbly.

Add condensed milk and evaporated milk to flour and stir until milk is absorbed. Break off pieces and shape like an almond two inches long. Deep fry until golden brown. Boil sugar and water to a thick syrup (until it spins a thread). Pour syrup over Goolab Jamoon, turning continuously to coat evenly until the syrup crystallizes.

Makes about two dozen.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Divali Pumpkin 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium onion, minced 3 cloves of garlic, minced 1 medium pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cubed 1 teaspoon salt 2 seasoning peppers, seeded and minced 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin In a medium pot heat oil, add onion and garlic and let cook for about one minute. Add pumpkin and mix well, cover and let cook on low heat for ten minutes.

Uncover and add salt and seasoning peppers, cover and let cook for another five minutes. Remove the cover and mix well. The pumpkin should smash while stirring. Add ground cumin and mix well. If the pumpkin has excess water let it cook uncovered until the pumpkin forms a paste.

Serves 6 to 8.

Stock Up

SEPTEMBER 2014

Curried Channa and Aloo 1 Cup dried channa (garbanzo beans), soaked overnight 2 Tablespoons cooking oil 1/2 Cup chopped onions 1 clove garlic, minced 2 Tablespoons curry powder 1 1/2 Cup water 1 pound of Irish potatoes, washed, peeled and cubed 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) Boil soaked channa in unsalted water until tender, drain and set aside.

Heat oil in a heavy pot, add onions and garlic and sauté for a few minutes. Mix curry powder with half a Cup of water, add to pot and cook, stirring, until thick. Add potato and stir until it is completely covered with the curry. Add remaining one Cup of water, salt, cumin and pepper if using. Cover and simmer over low heat for ten minutes.

Add channa and stir well. Cook until water is reduced and the mixture is tender and thick.

Serves 6 to 8.

2 Tablespoons brown sugar 2 Tablespoons anchar massala (Indian pickle spice mix) 2 Tablespoons curry powder 1 Cup water, divided 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil, 1 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) Wash, peel and slice mangoes lengthwise into 6 to 8 pieces. Discard seed. Set aside. Mix curry powder in a half Cup of water to form a thin paste. Heat oil in a heavy pot, add curry paste and cook stirring over a low heat for a minute. Add mango pieces and mix so that all the pieces are covered with the curry. Add remaining water, garlic, salt, sugar, and pepper if using. Lower heat, cover and cook until mango is tender. You can add more water if you find it to be too dry. Add the anchar massala and mix well, remove from heat and set aside till you are ready to serve.

Mix sugar and remaining one cup of water and bring to a boil until you can take a small spoonful of the syrup and drop it into a glass of water; if it crystallizes before reaching the bottom of the glass then the syrup is ready. Combine the syrup with the condensed milk and spices; stir briskly until the mixture becomes stiff.

Fold in the ground split peas and while mixture is still hot, form into one-inch balls. Allow to cool and set.

Makes about 30.

Barfi 1 pound powdered full cream milk 1 Cup double cream 1 1/2 Cup granulated sugar 3/4 Cup water 1 teaspoon rose water 2 pieces fresh ginger 1/2 Cup chopped cherries (optional) 1/4 Cup minced almonds sprinkles Mix powdered milk and cream (using your fingers) until very crumbly. Sift mixture through a sieve. Boil sugar, water, rose water and ginger for about ten minutes. Just before the sugar starts to get sticky remove the ginger. Stir in milk mixture and combine well.

Press the mixture firmly into a greased dish using the back of a spoon. Decorate with cherries, almonds and sprinkles. Let cool and cut into two-inch pieces.

Makes about 30.

Read in Next Month’s Compass: Lose Rudder = Abandon Ship?

Hiking and Canyoning in Dominica A Singlehander at Bocas del Toro

… and much more!

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THAT SHOULD HAVE TOLD ME SOMETHING Yo, Compass, When John Caldwell wrote [in his book Desperate Voyage] about spinning a shark by its tail in the cockpit of his little Pagan, you, if you knew anything about sharks, knew better than to believe it. When he wrote about eating shoe leather marinated in engine oil, you, if you remembered the “hard tack” eaten by sailors in centuries past, could almost believe it. And when he wrote of catching a bird on the end of

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 40

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A PROPER GOODBYE TO A DEPARTED SAILOR Dear Compass, I dislike calling obituaries “Eight Bells”, as that denotes the end of the watch — the end of the sailor.

I prefer to say that the sailor in question “has crossed the bar for the final time; he is off to sea, never to return”. Then I emulate the way the Venezuelan sailors say goodbye to a fellow sailor: they pour the favourite drink of the departed sailor, go to the end of the pier, drink half of the drink, and then pour the other half into the sea for the departed.

Patience Wales, the long-time editor of SAIL magazine, had a remembrance gathering of old friends for her departed partner. She wanted everyone to toast him and then pour half of their drink into Ipswich harbour. But it was mid-winter, the party was at her house, and there was no way she would be able to talk the assembled group into walking through the frozen streets to the harborside. Patience is a resourceful gal and solved the problem. She found an old-fashioned iron washtub and filled it with harbour water. Then, during the party, everyone gathered around the tub, hoisted a glass to the departed sailor, drank half and poured the other half into the tub.

Don Street Glandore, Ireland JUST TO SAY ‘THANKS!’ Dear Compass, We keep our yacht, Copihue, in Rodney Bay IGY marina and are spending the wintertime in the area.

Your magazine is of great interest to us and we get a lot of useful information this way.

Best regards, Milla and Ismo Nikola Yacht Copihue

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who claimed to have built a cruising vessel he had little to no interest in the boatbuilding enterprises and early regattas that so enlivened Bequia and Carriacou in his time. And that should have told me something.

We are all better off knowing the historical facts — or at least I think we are — and I am grateful indeed for Mr. Gordon’s documented, tactful correction in last month’s Reader’s Forum. I would encourage him, if he has the time and material and inclination, to write a bigger story about his father’s boat building and submit it to WoodenBoat magazine.

Richard Dey Boston, Massachusetts rdbequia@gmail.com

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required.

We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)

We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request.

Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.

Send your letters to sally@caribbeancompass.com.

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Pagan’s boom and eating it alive, you, having read similar accounts of delirious hunger, could believe it.

These claims and others, false or true or somewhere in-between, were all part of the outsized character known as “Johnny Coconut.”

While he was heroic in his way, it is sad but not surprising to learn in Robert Gordon’s letter and accompanying photographs [Caribbean Compass, August 2014] concerning the building of the Caldwell’s Outward Bound in Australia that Caldwell himself, contrary to his claims, did not in fact build the boat.

You will admit that the claim seemed part and parcel of the man and his whole story. Also, that deceit goes with survival stories back at least to The Odyssey. And Caldwell was at that point in his life still very much in a survivor’s mode, doing anything he could think of to keep his young family afloat — not that there is ever an excuse for hurting someone or depriving him of his accomplishments. Only much later, when he built Palm Island Resort, did the claim become purely a marketing ploy. But by then the lie was entrenched in the myth, as Mr. Gordon points out, and Caldwell had no real way out of it.

As I, who wrote an extended profile on him (In the Way of Adventure), think back some 35 years to the day spent interviewing him, I realize now that for one

CALENDAR

SEPTEMBER 2 3–9 6 9 10 10 16 19 20 21 22 24 24 – 26

Nereid’s Rally, Trinidad & Tobago to Guyana. www.marinaslm.com/rally International Billfish Tournament of Club Náutico de San Juan, Puerto Rico. www.sanjuaninternational.com Public holiday in Bonaire (Bonaire Day) FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay and West End, Tortola, and at Pinney’s Beach, Nevis Public holiday in Belize (St. George’s Caye Day) Date statistically most likely to host a hurricane Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (National Heroes’ Day) Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (Independence Day) International Coastal Clenup Day. www.oceanconservancy.org Public holiday in Belize (Independence Day) Autumnal Equinox Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Republic Day) Caribbean Sailing Association Annual Conference, Antigua. www.Caribbean-sailing.com

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All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press — but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.

If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass.com

Additional Features: Hydraulic Steering Navigation Lights Radio/ CD Player Microwave

Asking Price: US$50,000.00 (ONO) Serious offers only - Call: (784) 488-8465

PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Curaçao, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold):

CARACASBAAIWEG Budget Marine Curaçao Caribbean Nautical Island Water World PARERA PLETTERIJWEG Budget Marine Curaçao Curaçao Marine Service PISCADERA Royal Marine Services Curaçao SPANISH WATER Asiento Yacht Club Curaçao Yacht Club Fishing Harbour Norman’s Snack Kimakalki Marina

HELP TRACK HUMPBACK WHALE MIGRATION Your contributions of tail fluke photographs of humpback whales from the Caribbean region are critical for conservation efforts.

INTERESTED in Helping? Go to www.CARIBTAILS.org

PAGE 41

12 12 13 14 17 18 20 20 22 - 29

Public holiday in St. Lucia (Thanksgiving Day) 47th Bonaire International Sailing Festival. www.bonaireregatta.org FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay and West End, Tortola, and at Pinney’s Beach, Nevis Quantum IC24 International Regatta.

Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, sailing@royalbviyc.org, www.royalbviyc.org Public Holiday in Venezuela (Indigenous Resistance Day) Public Holiday in Colombia (Día de la Raza) Public holiday in Belize (Pan American Day) Public holiday in the Bahamas (Discovery Day) Public holiday in Haiti (Anniversary of the Death of Dessalines) Willie T Virgin’s Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC Blue Food Festival, Tobago Public Holiday in BVI (St. Ursula’s Day) 28th Annual Pro Am Regatta, Virgin Gorda. Bitter End Yacht Club (Virgin Gorda), tel (312) 506-6205, binfo@beyc.com, www.beyc.com Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Diwali) Public holiday in Jamaica (National Heroes’ Day) World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com.

See ad on page 23 17th Foxy’s Halloween Cat Fight (catamaran regatta), Jost Van Dyke. www.foxysbar.com Public holiday in Grenada (Thanksgiving Day) Woburn Thanksgiving Regatta, Grenada Barbados J/24 Match Racing Championship. Barbados J/24 Club. www.facebook.com/BarbadosJ24Sailing Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (Independence Day) FestiVoile, Guadeloupe. www.lgvoile.com National Heritage Day, Antigua Trafalgar Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC Discover the Caribbean – Big Boat Races, Puerto Rico. www.discoverpyfc.com

Model: 245WA Atlantic Year: 2009 Length: 23’ 4” Beam: 8’ 6” Minimum Draft: 1’ Engine/ Fuel type: Twin gas Yamaha 115hp Mechanics: Twin Outboard Motors

Communications: Standard Horizon DSC VHF Engine Hours: Under 10

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

3 5 - 11 8

Specifications:

SEPTEMBER 2014

OCTOBER

23’ Atlantic 245WA Fishing Boat

Caribbean Compass Market Place

Located on the Kirani James Blvd. (Lagoon Road)

MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICES

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 42

PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES Providing all vital services to Trans-Atlantic Yachts!

Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging EU-VAT (16%) importation Duty free fuel (+10.000lt)

TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.pt www.midatlanticyachtservices.com

DOMINICA YACHT SERVICES - Relax! Leave the work to us Hubert J. Winston 18 Victoria St. Roseau & Bay St. Portsmouth Dominica

NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising.

Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 www.neilprydesails.com

Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Lunch 6.00 - 9.00 for Dinner Tuesday to Saturday Sunday Brunch 11.30 - 14.30 Reservations recommended Phone (473) 443 6500 or call CH 16 Situated on the South Side of Tyrrel Bay. Bar open all Day

Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou Use our new Dinghy Dock

+767-275-2851 Mobile / 445-4322 +767-448-7701 Fax info@dominicayachtservices.com www.dominicayachtservices.com

#ONSUMABLES WIND CARTE PDF

TechNick Ltd. CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE Land and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.carriacou.net or contact Carolyn Alexander at Carriacou Real Estate Ltd e-mail: islander@spiceisle.com Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou

THIS COULD BE

YOUR MARKET PLACE AD

tom@caribbeancompass.com

Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of stainless steel and aluminium items.

Nick Williams, Manager Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada technick@spiceisle.com

Marine Electrics

Watermakers Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 yescaraibes@hotmail.com

continued on next page

Caribbean Compass Market Place FLAGS WIND CARTE PDF

restaurant & boutique hotel fisherman to table OpenFarm daily and for lunch and supper, 12-9pm at afrom beachfront coconut plantation.

2 miles the harbor.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

crescent beach,

Call 784.458.3400 for industry bay, bequia directions or reservations.

PH 784.458.3400 Crescent Beach, Bequia www.sugarreefbequia.com (Industry Bay)

ONE STOP SHOP FOR ALL YOUR BOAT’S NEEDS! “IF WE DO NOT HAVE IT, WE WILL GET IT�

GOLDEN HIND CHANDLERIES LTD. WICKHAMS CAY II - NEXT TO THE MOORINGS TEL: 1 284 494 7749 FAX: 1 284 494 8031 EMAIL: GHC@SURFBVI.COM

UNION ISLAND St. Vincent & the Grenadines

Tel/Fax: (784) 458 8918 SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

capgourmet @vincysurf.com VHF Ch 08

BOAT PAINT & STUFF Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin info@boatpaintstuff.com

PAGE 43

ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST: US NAVY PRODUCT

(PPG Ameron) COPPERCOAT Permanent Antifouling

(10 years and more‌)

Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat Phone: + (590) 690 221 676

GRENADINES SAILS & CANVAS • BEQUIA • NEW SAILS, SAIL REPAIRS, U/V COVERS FOAM LUFFS, BIMINI, DODGERS AWNINGS, DINGHY COVERS TRAMPOLINES,STACKPACKS & LAZY JACK SYSTEMS

St. Vincent & the Grenadines Tel: 784-457-2178 784-456-2640 Fax: 784-456-1302 VHF Channel 16 ottleyhall @gmail.com SHIPYARD REPAIR SERVICES • Covered drydock • Drydock facilities up to 65M & 1000 tonne • 40 tonne travel lift • Woodwork & metal work • Sand blasting • Welding, painting, fiberglass • Electrical, refrigeration & mechanical repairs MARINA SERVICES • 22 berths for yachts from 22M- 65M • Electricity & water • Shower & toilet

Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com

VHF Ch16/68

continued on next page

Caribbean Compass Market Place MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICES

PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES

Proprietors of this highly successful Atlantic islands offshore chandlery & marine services center are looking for new owners.

Some background within the international yachting community and/ or a marine business environment will help carry on the seasonal operation.

Plenty of room for growth/expansion & new ideas w/ an enviable quality of life.

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 44

For further details please make direct contact via: atlanticbluewater@hotmail.com

C A R I B B E A N

FRE

E

C MPASS SEPTEMBER 2014 NO. 228

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

COMPASS COVERS

AND YOU! The amazing ongoing technological advances in digital photography have really lifted the quality of images we are able to offer in Caribbean Compass. Whereas in years gone by, most of our cover shots were taken by pros, today an amateur photographer with good-quality equipment and an eye for color and composition also has — no pun intended — a shot.

If you would like to submit a photo for consideration as a Compass cover, read on.

We love images of people on sailboats having fun in the Caribbean. If you can show some coastline recognizable as Caribbean, or other recognizable Caribbean landmark or subject of interest to boaters, all the better. Action and color are good.

Although a tiny distant boat in swathes of sea and sky isn’t too interesting, do try to make sure there is some space at the top of the image (usually a bit of sky) for our header.

Remember to shoot in portrait (vertical) format — just turn your camera sideways for a “tall” shot!

Images should be at least 10.2 inches wide by 12.5 inches high at 300lpi or greater. If you don’t know what this means, set your camera to take the largest photos possible. Image quality must be sharp. If your images are too large for e-mail, send them through an online service such as Dropbox.

Please don’t get all artsy with Photoshop. Please. Just don’t.

We can’t use photos that have appeared previously, or will appear simultaneously, in any other Caribbean publication or anywhere on-line.

Cover photos are judged and chosen by a number of criteria including technical specifications and our particular needs at the time. If your photo isn’t used, it doesn’t mean it wasn’t good.

Send submissions for cover photos to sally@caribbeancompass.com. Be sure to tell us the name of the photographer, and include a brief description of the shot (i.e. who is in it, when and where it was taken, etcetera). We look forward to seeing Caribbean sailing through your lens!

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No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing.

Brush ON Rinse OFF before

after

Available Available at at Caribbean Caribbean Chandleries Chandleries or or

SpotlessStainless.com

☛ REMEMBER to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass!

www.caribbeancompass.com FREE on-line version!

VIRGINTINO

Similarly, many tend to assume a lot about Haitians that just isn’t true.

The ‘Voodoo’ Image About 12,000,000 West Africans were brought to the “new world” as slaves; of those about 4,000,000 were settled in the Caribbean. They were virtually all West African but they spoke many different languages. Slave owners took great care not to put those that spoke the same language close to each other, so that they could not plot against their white captors. What the slave owners did not realize is that there are many forms of language, and virtually all West Africans believed in one form or another of animism: the belief that spirits inhabit all living things including trees and animals. They believed that these spirits were inspired by the greatest spirit of them all — God (Bondye in Creole).

This belief system has come to be known throughout the world as Voodoo. As a set of religious beliefs, Voodoo is one of the oldest on the planet. Some historians and anthropologists believe that the word Voodoo comes from the French vieux dieux (old gods). Others believe it comes from the West African word vodún, which is the FonEwe word for spirit.

Voodoo is a way of life for Haitians. It is said that Haiti is 85 percent Catholic, 15 percent Protestant and 100 percent Voodoo. If you want to see zombies and curses caused by sticking pins in a doll, Voodoo is not your ticket. In Voodoo, the supplication of spirits, just like the supplication of saints by Catholics, is meant to have the spirit (lwa) intercede on one’s behalf to assist with the problems of life. Illness, shortage of money, finding the right mate and so forth are all things that a believer in Voodoo might request help with. Some Voodoo ceremonies do sacrifice the blood of an animal as an offering to God; such a sacrifice is certainly not unique to Voodoo. Sometimes those that participate in such ceremonies do dance as if possessed by the spirit, in many ways similar to members of some Christian sects being imbued by the spirit and speaking in tongues. The important thing to understand is that the tenets of Voodoo make life bearable and even joyful for Haitians amidst tragedy and suffering because they give Haitians a way of understanding their plight, just as other belief systems do for their believers.

A Word on AIDS AIDS is also often cited as a reason not to visit Haiti. The roots of this fear go back to the first impact of the AIDS epidemic. What came to be known as “the 4-H club” incorporated Hemophiliacs, Heroin users, Homosexuals and Haitians. This group was thought to be either the initiators of AIDS or a group with an above average incidence of infection with the AIDS virus.

In 1983, the New York State Health Commissioner removed Haitians as a risk factor for AIDS and in 1984 the United States Center for Disease Control did likewise.

However, the damage was done and Haitians had become stigmatized. Their tourist industry declined by over 90 percent in a matter of a few short years and has not recovered to this day.

In Summary Whether it is by the stigma of racism or poverty, AIDS or Voodoo, there is no question that Haitians have been maligned. If we are to base our decisions to cruise or visit an area on supposition and myth, we could make a case to avoid cruising anywhere.

If you choose to cruise to Haiti and make your ports of call some of the islands, villages and settlements that will be outlined in Part 3 of this series next month, you will experience such a unique cruising ground that perhaps Haiti will cast its spell on you, just as it has done on me.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Next month, in Part Three of this series, we will take a cruise around Haiti.

Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides, http://freecruisinguides.com.

SEPTEMBER 2014

—Continued from page 22 This despite the fact that just about 100 percent of Haiti’s population is Christian; to visit Haiti on a Sunday morning is to find people in church.

Notions about race do not change overnight even if the overnight is hundreds of years long.

The Poverty Problem Some cruisers say they are uncomfortable with the level of poverty in the country.

How is it that Haiti is so poor?

When Haiti won its freedom from France in 1804, the new government was forced to pay enormous reparations — an amount so large and paid for so long as to make Haiti a debtor nation at its inception. The debt was not paid in full until 1947.

More than a century of calculated colonial occupation, which caused impoverishment, was followed up by decades of the US-backed dictatorship of Papa Doc Duvalier and his son, “Baby Doc.” This father-son team indebted Haiti still further and made it the dumping ground of the surpluses of the First World. (We must ask, why does Haiti import its rice and sugar from the United States?) Haiti has remained a debtor nation, owing largely to the politics of the hemisphere.

Many believe that Haiti is dysfunctional; that somehow Haitians are not capable of taking care of themselves. Haitians are very capable of doing what it takes to survive.

When I say this, people normally respond by asking why then does so much aid go to Haiti? The answer can be summed up in two ways. The first is that much of the “help” that goes to Haiti is not help at all, but rather the continuing story of exploitation, self-interest and geopolitics that benefit from providing such aid. With a little reading you should be able to raise sufficient doubt in your mind about some aid programs. Perhaps you will read A Bed for the Night: Humanitarianism in Crisis by David Rieff. His book clearly documents why aid “from the top down” does not work.

Aid during a crisis is one thing, but programmed welfare is something entirely different. Give a man a handout and you have created a beggar; give him the means to earn a living and you have a responsible citizen.

Haiti has always been a country of plot farmers. Haitians plant to eat and to sell what is left over to raise cash. US aid has all but wiped out plot farming in Haiti. As a result, many plot farmers have had to relocate to the capital putting more pressure on already overcrowded substandard areas.

Another way to understand Haiti’s plight is to understand that notions about Haiti are so well entrenched that they create a mindset. For example, the young Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie has explained how when she first came to the United States, the daughter of an upper-class Nigerian family, her roommate automatically assumed she was poor, did not know how to use indoor plumbing or a stove, and could not speak English. In fact, after finishing her undergraduate work at the University of Nigeria, she had come to the States to do graduate work. She graduated from John Hopkins as well as Yale University, and her speeches and books have won her worldwide fame.

PAGE 45

CLASSIFIEDS 41' AMEL KETCH 1977 75 hp Volvo. New 130w solar panels, 6’ RIB/4hp Mercury, selfsteering/AP. Electric windlass, generator, new batteries.

E-mail: wardar_br@yahoo.com

FOR SALE

2003 GibSea 51 160.000 US 2002 BENETEAU 505 175.000 US 1992 WARWICK Cardinal 46cc 165.000 US 2001 Bavaria 46/3 130.000 US 1987 IRWIN 44 MK II 95.000 US 1983 34ft VINDÖ 45 49.900 US E-mail: ulrich@dsl-yachting.com Tel: (758) 452 8531

38FT BOWEN w/cabin, 2x300 hp Yanmar Turbo, seats 20 passengers, large hard top, stereo, deck shower/ head,swim platform/ladders

DIVE BOAT 42’ Must Sell, prices reduced considerably Tel: (784) 5828828/457-4477 E-mail info@fantaseatours.com

41’ ROGER SIMPSON DESIGN Light weight, cruising catamaran, 3 cabin, 1 head.

USD75,000 ONO Tel: (868) 684-7720/634-2259 E-mail: ldemontbrun@hotmail.com or marconeltd@hotmail.com

SADLER 29 1985. Major refurbishment prior to ARC 2009 including standing rigging, wind vane, solar power, fridge, Raymarine instruments, new tender. Lying Marigot Bay, St Lucia.

US$25,000. Email: ron.dunn@ hotmail.co.uk 33' ISLANDER SLOOP Fully equipped, good condition. US$9,900 OBO Details: www.lumbadive.com/ carriacouislander/forsale.htm

FORMULA 30 2002 Immaculate condition throughout. 2x 220hp V6. Lots of installed extras. US$55,000. E-mail: formula4sale@outlook.com

GRENADA - East side Clarkes Court Bay. Excellent views, water access, plots available. 0.9 acres to 9,000 sq.ft. Prices from US$5 to $10 sq/ft depending on size and location. Including 50' of sand waterfront with steep drop off to deep water. E-mail streetiolaire@ hotmail.com CARRIACOU LAND, Lots and multi-acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay. www.caribtrace.com CARRIACOU - HERMITAGE Overlooking Tyrrel Bay. 2 storey house with fenced garden on ¼ acre. Upstairs apt has 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, large veranda. Downstairs apt has 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, opens onto garden.

Available immediately EC$800,000 Laura Tel: (473) 443-6269 or +44 208-6215001 E-mail: tbyh@usa.net

SEPTEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 46

RENTALS 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN POWERBOAT This luxury speedboat is available in Grenada. Gen-Set, A/C, white leather in cabin, galley, shower(s),VaccuFlush,Mercury 502 marine engines overhauled by Mercury dealer, Bravo 1 drives. 40 MPH cruise props w/over 60 speed props. www.aviationcms.com E-mail: acmsaircraftforsale@gmail.com ENDEAVOUR 40 Center cockpit, cruising ready, complete w/solar panels, wind generator, electronics.

Will trade for real estate.

E-mail: velerofia@gmail.com

28’ Bowen, 2x200 hp Yamaha. Seats 12 passengers, collapsible top, onboard deck shower.

BERTRAM 28 FLYBRIDGE 1983.

2x Yanmar 2007, 2,000 hrs.

Very good condition, complete renovation at Ottley Hall, St. Vincent.

E-mail: Mausmed@Yahoo.it

BLACK PEARL VEDETTE L-10.97m, B-2.44m, Yanmar 6LPA-STP2, 315HP, 4 – stroke.

New Mercruiser Bravo 2 stern drive and aluminum prop (installed July ’13). Head / toilet, nav lights, new VHF radio, aft swim deck/ladder.

Helm seats/aft sundeck cushions new Oct 2012. Surveyed 2013. Contact Matt Semark with offers. E-mail: matthew. semark@petitstvincent.com

NORTHSTAR 25’ GRP 1977 Canada. Sleeps 4, galley, 8Hp Evinrude OB, trailer. On the beach in Barbados but ready for the sea. US$7,500 E-mail: stepgrif352@gmail. com Tel: (246) 422-5370

GALAPAGOS 43` STEEL KETCH Center cockpit. Recently hauled out and refurbished, ready to sail, lying Bequia, US$45,000. Robin, E-mail: robinfixman@gmail.com 37’ 1982 COMET 7 tons 36 hp Bukh diesel, well equipped with dinghy, 4 hp Yamaha ob, all sails, 2 anchors, electronics. Ready for cruising.

US$28,000. Power Boats in Trinidad. Tel: (868) 634-4346 E-mail: don@powerboats.co.tt

31’ BOWEN PIROGUE 2x200hp Yamaha. US$37,000.

Tel: (784) 496-5457

YOUR CLASSIFIED IS ON-LINE!

ACADIA 25 by Atlas Boat of Florida. Beautiful boat with large cockpit, 200hp TurboYanmar, bow thruster, generator, full rigid bimini, A/C, instruments. Low hrs. fish, dive or coastal cruise.

US$50,000.

Lying St. Lucia.

Contact to photos E-mail: bawohlfeld@gmail.com.

42’ SEARAY SUNDANCER 1992 with Caterpillar diesels, excellent condition.

Cheapest Sundancer on the market today!US$60,000 Tel: (784) 528-7273 E-mail: rodney_gooding@hotmail.com

38’ BAYLINER Economical and reliable 2x Hino diesels.2 strms, 2 heads/ shwr & tub, galley, 2 helms. Great cruising and liveaboard vessel.

Canadian flag, lying Grenada. Tel:(473) 406-8217 1987 MASON 44 “Eclipse” very clean, never had teak decks. The boat has been upgraded, meticulously maintained in “like new condition”, equipped for longrange cruising. This is an exceptional Mason 44. Must sell US$180,000. www.mason44forsale.com or E-mail: eclipse4536@gmail.com

YOUR CLASSIFIED IS ON-LINE!

PROPERTY FOR SALE BEQUIA - MT. PLEASANT Great views, large lots from US$5/sq.ft. www.bequialandforsale.com BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA Waterfront location, Bequia’s most popular restaurant. Same owner-manager for 31 yrs. Complete land, buildings, equipment.

Island Pace Realty. Tel: (784) 458-3544 Email: emmett@ islandpace.com BEQUIA- BUILDING LOT Near La Pompe, oceanfront property with spectacular view of Petit Nevis, Isle a Quatre and Mustique.

11,340 sq/ft. US$125,000 Tel: (613) 931-1868 E-mail: maccomm@sympatico.ca

UNION ISLAND – CLIFTONRESTAURANT/BAR FOR LEASE Water front location next door to a hotel in the centre of the yachting harbor.

Private dinghy dock, clean & safe, ready for the new season. Tel: (784) 455-3822 E-mail: gdive@vincysurf.com

BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Interesting, exotic, Tahiti-style igloo. Tel: (784) 533-4865 www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com LA POMPE, BEQUIA Large 2 bedroom house and/ or 1 bed studio apartment.Big verandah and patio, stunning view, cool breeze. Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks minimum, excellent long-term rates.

Tel: (784) 495 1177 email: louisjan@vincysurf.com

MISCELLANEOUS

JOHN DEERE ENGINE PARTS, Model T6068T, TFM01 (old style, 300 series) 3x fresh water pumps, 3x injection pumps, 3x starters, 3x lift pumps. Offers.

Tel: (268) 764-2689 E-mail: gregoryurlwin@yahoo.com ADMIRALTY BAY, BEQUIA 2x block & chain moorings. Off Plantation House; one in approx 35’ & one in approx 16’ of water. Offers. Details at http://www.smudge.com/ E-mail: tom@smudge.com

3208 CATERPILLAR’S 2x3208 375hp marine engines/ZF transmissions.

Fully rebuilt, zero hrs.

Tel: (784) 528-7273 E-mail: rodney_gooding@hotmail.com SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean. com/specials.htm

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY

SOUTH PACIFIC LIFESTYLE Live the dream in Tonga.

Floating art gallery, rental moorings & recognized cruisers haven.See our ad http://tinyurl.com/o3zkygo

DON‘T LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT

CLASSIFIEDS US 50¢ PER WORD

CANOUAN Island - DINGHY MISSING from June 2014. 12' Nautica / 2007 Yamaha 40hp 4 stroke. Electric tilt w/ hydraulic steering, digital gauges.EC$1000 reward for return of boat & engine. My daughter misses it A LOT! Tel: (784) 434-8596 E-mail: toddjetmx@gmail.com

Include name, address and numbers in count.

Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are US$10

Pre-paid by the 10th of the month E-mail: shellese @caribbeancompass.com

ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISER

LOCATION

PG# ADVERTISER

LOCATION

PG#

Aero Tech Lab Amilibia Marinas Art & Design Art Fabrik B & C Fuel Dock Barefoot Yacht Charters Bequia Marina Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Boat Paint & Stuff Budget Marine Captain Gourmet Caraibe Marine Caraibe Marine Caribbean Marine Electrical Caribbean Propellers Clippers Ship Cruising Life Curaçao Marine Dometic Dominica Yacht Services

C/W C/W Antigua Grenada Grenada SVG SVG SVG St. Maarten Sint Maarten SVG Martinique Martinique Trinidad Trinidad Martinique SVG Curaçao C/W Dominica

40 17 MP MP 20 14 20 15 MP 2 MP 11 MP MP MP MP 35 36 19 MP

Grenada Tortola USA Trinidad International Trinidad Grenada C/W Trinidad Tortola Grenada Grenada SVG SVG St. Lucia UK Sint Maarten St. Lucia Trinidad C/W

MP 4 34 19 39 MP 39 35 MP Mp 16 25 37 MP 7 34/40 9/29/48 27 10 8

Down Island Real Estate Doyle Offshore Sails Doyle's Guides Echo Marine Edward William Insurance Electropics Food Fair Free Cruising Guides Gittens Engines Golden Hind Chandlery Grenada Marine Grenada Tourism Grenadine Air Alliance Grenadines Sails IGY Rodney Bay Marina Iolaire Enterprises Island Water World Johnson Hardware KVR Energy Limited LIAT

ADVERTISER

LOCATION

PG# ADVERTISER

LOCATION

Marc One Marine Marina Pescaderia Marina Santa Marta Marina Zar-Par McIntyre Bros Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Multihull Company Nauti Solutions Neil Pryde Sails Northern Lights Generators Oceanswatch Off Shore Risk Management Ottley Hall Marina & Shipyard Porthole Restaurant Power Boats Renaissance Marina Sea Hawk Paints Second Life Sails Slipway Restaurant SpotlessStainless

Trinidad Puerto Rico Colombia Dominican Rep Grenada Azores C/W Grenada Grenada Tortola C/W Tortola SVG SVG Trinidad Aruba C/W C/W Grenada C/W

MP MP 5 21 40 MP 45 MP MP 28 32 17 MP MP MP 22 13 18 MP MP

St. Lucia SVG Puerto Rico SVG Grenada C/W C/W Guadeloupe Grenada SVG Venezuela Martinique Dominica Venezuela C/W Martinique Trinidad

St. Lucia Tourist Board Sugar Reef Bequia Ltd Sunbay Marina SVG Tourism Technick The Nature Conservancy Tobago Cays Marine Park Triskell Cup Regatta Turbulence Sails Velocity Water Services Venezuelan Marine Supply WIND World Creole Music Fest Xanadu Marine Xtreme Fuel treatment YES YSATT

PG#

26 MP 6 24 MP 47 38 12 16/MP MP MP MP 23 21 MP MP MP

MP = Market Place pages 42 to 44 C/W = Caribbean-wide

One day, you may have to tell your grandchildren stories about places like this.

SEPTEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

Experts predict that within 100 years, natural lands and water resources will become scarce. Climate change will irreversibly alter the planet. And the habitats that support all life could be lost forever.

Support our mission to protect the future of our natural world.

To make a difference that lasts, join The Nature Conservancy.

Log onto www.nature.org today or call (800) 842-8905.

Rock Islands in the Republic of Palau. Image ŠJez O’Hare

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago