Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide by Cariboo Chilcotin Coast_British Columbia, Canada

cariboo chilcotin coast

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Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

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Contents Introduction 4 Land of Hidden Waters 6 Cariboo Gold Rush Trail 14 Map 32 The Chilcotin 34 Great Bear Rainforest 46 Know Before You Go 60 Directory 62

The Cariboo Chilcotin Coast is a Biosphere Certified Destination. Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism (CCCT) is committed to advancing the well-being and sustainability of our region’s communities, businesses, culture and environment. Through a holistic approach, we work to advance stewardship priorities relating to the 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. For local travel information, contact Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism: 1-800-663-5885 | landwithoutlimits.com For BC accommodation and travel information visit: HelloBC.com ©2023 – Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism (the “Region”). All rights reserved. Unauthorized reproduction is prohibited. This Guide does not constitute, and should not be construed as, an endorsement or recommendation of any carrier, hotel, restaurant or any other facility, attraction or activity in British Columbia, for which neither Destination BC Corp. nor the Region assumes any responsibility. Super, Natural British Columbia, Hello BC, Visitor Centre and all associated logos/trademarks are trade-marks or Official Marks of Destination BC Corp. Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Tourism Association and all associated trade-marks and logos are trade-marks or official marks of the Region. Admission fees and other terms and conditions may apply to attractions and facilities referenced in this Guide. Errors and omissions excepted. Photography: All images in this guide are intended to provide informative historical context and fair representation of activities which are available in this region.

Tuckkwiowhum Village, Boston Bar Tyler Cave Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Land Without Limits What is “Land Without Limits”? It’s vast open skies. Room to wander. Space to roam. It’s the heart of British Columbia’s wildest region – the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast. Discover an untamed land framed by rolling hills and coastal mountains, that boasts diverse landscapes, abundant nature and wildlife, rich history and people who are generous of heart. Many Indigenous peoples have called this region home for millennia, from the high-altitude plateau of the Chilcotin (chil-ko-tin) with the Tsilhqot’in (tseelh-coht-een), southwest of the mighty Fraser River with the St’át’imc (stat-lee-um) and their neighbours in the southern Fraser Canyon, the Nlaka’pamux (ing-khla-kap-muh). The Carrier people, including the Ulkatcho (ulhk’acho) First Nation whose traditional territory includes the waters flowing west on the Chilcotin Plateau, occupied the sub-boreal northern area of the Cariboo Chilcotin. The Secwepemc’s (shi-huep-muh-k) historical territory is located east of the Fraser River. Along the Pacific coast, Indigenous nations include the Nuxalk (nu-hawk), residing in the Bella Coola Valley, the outer coast’s Tsimshian (sim-she-an) and the Gitga’at (git-gat), the Wuikinuxv (whee-kin-au) residing in Rivers Inlet, the Heiltsuk (hel-sic) in the Bella Bella area, and the Kitasoo (kit-ah-soo) and Xai’xais (hay-hace) peoples of Klemtu/Kitasoo. Land Without Limits is where everything, anything – and, sometimes, nothing at all – happens. From road-tripping and camping to bucket list wilderness resorts, guest ranching and heli-ski vacations; from backyard barbeques to gourmet dining; from outdoor adventures and the wild, wild west to Gold Rush Trail and ghost town discoveries; to just taking a moment to catch your breath and say, “Om” – the opportunities here are limitless. Land Without Limits is where cultural and contemporary lifestyles co-exist harmoniously. It’s where one can connect with the earth, the past, family, friends and oneself, while respecting the beautiful natural spaces and the communities that call this exceptional region home. It’s where rejuvenation of spirit happens effortlessly, whether it’s your first visit or your 50th. Join us in the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast’s Land Without Limits. Welcome! Cover Photo: Chasm Provincial Park Photo Credit: Cheryl Chapman Editorial Contributors: Mary Elliott, Jane Zatylny Design & Layout: Jill Schick

Puntzi Lake Jesaja Class

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Land of HIdden WAters There’s an old saying here: “Fish (or paddle) a lake a day for every day you stay!” With countless lakes, unique lakefront accommodations and endless year-round activities, BC’s four seasons Land of Hidden Waters is a region that begs to be explored. The thrill of discovery awaits around every curve on the road in the Land of Hidden Waters. This area runs between 93 Mile on Highway 97 and Little Fort on Highway 5, extending north to the Cariboo Mountains and Canim Lake and south to Loon Lake and 70 Mile House. Land of Hidden Waters is named for its hundreds of lakes and streams, many off-the-beaten-path. The area includes a strip of road called “Fishing Highway 24” because you can drop a line at more than 100 lakes along its length. As you drive the highway you will spot Lone Butte, a low, steep-sided mesa butte that was formed within a prehistoric volcano over six million years ago. Near the butte’s north side is the small community by the same name. Also in the neighbourhood is Green Lake Provincial Park, with its crystal-clear, wide and shallow lake perfect for summer and winter recreation. With lakeside camping and plenty of nearby accommodation, it’s a popular destination for families and nature-seekers alike.

Wells Gray Provincial Park Destination BC

Two gems on this road less travelled, Canim Lake and Mahood Lake, offer three majestic waterfalls: Canim, Mahood and Deception Falls. The Canim-Mahood trail is a short, groomed 1-km (0.6-mi) trail that leads first to the 15-m (49-ft) Mahood Falls and then, just a couple of hundred meters away, to the lookout of the 20-m (66ft) Canim Falls. Another short trail to Deception Falls is accessible via the provincial park campground on Mahood Lake. Here, you can view the 50-m (164-ft) waterfall from an overlooking bluff. Canim River Destination BC/Andrew Strain Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Historic fly shop in Little Fort Destination BC/Andrew Strain

While many of the lakes may be “hidden,” they are ready for you to explore. Hiking trails along secluded paths lead to serene lakes, where wildlife viewing and fishing opportunities abound. The sparse population here also means that visitors can soak up the peace and quiet, gaze at the night skies and rediscover their inner calm. One of the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast’s “Top 10 Natural Wonders,” Wells Gray Provincial Park is dubbed Canada’s Waterfall Park, with 41 named waterfalls. At the confluence of Clearwater, Thompson and Murtle rivers surrounded by 5,250 sq km (3,262 sq mi) one can truly become immersed in nature, with a myriad of waterfalls, old growth inland rainforest and mountain peaks. Here you will find hikes through ancient forests, paddles in the waters of Eagle Creek, Canim Lake and Mahood Lake, and, in winter, spectacular frozen waterfalls for intrepid ice-climbers and pristine backcountry skiing for softer adventure-seekers. Green Lake Green Lake gets its name from its shimmering green coloration. A large lake at about 14 km (9 mi) long, it boasts a shoreline of 57 km (35 mi). • Go horseback riding or take part in lakeside watersports like swimming, boating and fishing. 8

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

• In winter, slip into cross-country skis to take advantage of the terrain in Green Lake Provincial Park. In summer, its five sandy beaches are ideal for a lazy day in the sun. Lone Butte This peaceful village is named for a prominent volcanic plug that inspires invigorating hikes up “the Butte.” Lone Butte is surrounded by hundreds of lakes perfect for swimming, boating and, of course, fishing. • Hike around the butte and enjoy the scenery, or delve into the backcountry by ATV, horseback or snowmobile; remember to stay on marked trails and be respectful of private property. Fishing Highway 24 Highway 24, between 93 Mile House and Little Fort, and its junctions with Highways 97 and 5, is known as “Fishing Highway 24,” a touring route that connects Whistler to Jasper National Park. Tracing sections of the old Hudson’s Bay Company Fur Brigade Trail, it accesses 100-plus lakes where flyfishing, spin casting, trolling and ice fishing yield big fish, and month-long fishing derbies are held in June and September. The route is dotted with restaurants, cafes, shops, resorts, farmers’ markets and guest ranches, making

it a coveted destination for fishers and nature-seekers alike. Hathaway Lake Hathaway Lake is a deeper lake north of Sheridan Lake. Its location off the highway means the lake typically is less fished than others in the area. It offers rainbow trout, lake char and kokanee as well as a thriving wild lake trout population to attract fly anglers, trollers and ice fishing enthusiasts. • Rent a kayak, canoe, paddleboard or electric-motor boat and soak in the quiet on this pristine lake. Horse Lake Horse Lake is an 18-km (11-mi) long lake and a popular holiday spot. Home to lakeside resorts and camping areas, Horse Lake is stocked with rainbow trout and kokanee, and lake trout can also be caught here. • In autumn, be sure to bring your camera, to capture the groves of aspen putting on their spectacular show of colour.

waterways and overland trails. After the construction of the Cariboo Waggon Road during the 1860s, the Fur Brigade Trail was no longer required and instead Bridge Lake became a beautiful vacation spot. • Explore the myriad lakes surrounding Bridge Lake to find one of the best fishing spots in the province, where you might be the only person on the lake as you drop your line. • Take a break from the water to visit the Bridge Lake Ice Caves Interpretive Trail, a 2 km (1 mi) low-mobility trail loop through the forest with viewing platforms and a fascinating display of the area's Indigenous history. Lac Des Roches This lake, nestled within the heart of the BC wilderness, is known for its trophy Gerrard rainbow trout and freshwater cod (burbots) that are prevalent in the winter for excellent ice fishing. Lac Des Roches is also a top fly-fishing lake. • Stop in at the Lac des Roches Rest Area, a lookout just off the highway that features picnic tables and epic views of the lake and surrounding hills.

The Interlakes The Interlakes District is located where Highway 24 meets Horse Lake Road, on the northern shores of Sheridan Lake. Interlakes serves neighbouring communities and is a key stop for anglers looking to restock as well as those taking a road trip through this idyllic area. • Access the many lakes in the area while staying at a cozy guest ranch with a European touch. Sheridan Lake Sheridan Lake, due south of the Interlakes, is known for exceptional lake fishing, including rainbow trout which can be found regularly from May through October. Fly fishers can also find terrific fishing opportunities among the many weed beds and islands. • Take advantage of over 208 km (130 mi) of mapped and signed trails for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding.

Relax and watch the world go by... Lakefront Log Cabins Campground • Boat Rentals Fishing • Hiking Snow Shoeing Cross Country Skiing

Fawn Lake Resort, on Highway 24, Lone Butte BC www.fawnlakeresort.com 250-593-4654

WETTSTONE GUEST RANCH

fawnlakeresortltd

Lakeview Chalet & Cabin Trail Rides & Fishing B&B Horse & Dog Training

Bridge Lake Step back in time with a visit to this small community, originally situated on the historic Fur Brigade Trail, which dates back to times when fur traders travelled by

Bridge Lake, BC 250-593-4487 wettstone-ranch.com

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Canim Falls Destination BC/Blake Jorgenson

Forest Grove The community of Forest Grove is situated northeast of 100 Mile House on the Canim-Hendrix Lake Road. Named after a town by the same name in Oregon, Forest Grove attracted small family farmers and those living off the fur trade in the years prior to World War I. By 1917, the community boasted a lodge, general store, post office, billiard hall, trading post and large barn. Like many of the region’s towns, forestry once played an important economic role here. Today, Forest Grove is home to family farms supported by tourism and recreation. Surrounded by a multitude of lakes and campsites, Forest Grove is more than a stop to stock up on supplies. • Hike one of the groomed trails in the area and be on the lookout for deer, moose, bears and other forest wildlife. • Listen to the haunting call of a loon while you paddle on a nearby lake. Canim Lake At 37 km (23 mi) long, Canim Lake offers plenty of scenic beauty surrounded by evergreen forests, meadows and mountains, with resorts dotting the lake’s vast pebbled

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

shoreline (a remnant of the glacial age). Canim Lake is also the gateway into Wells Gray Provincial Park’s backcountry, a wilderness park and jewel of the province. • Paddle the lake in a canoe or kayak or rent a pontoon from one of the lake’s resorts. • View magnificent waterfalls and volcanic cones (near Spanish Creek), Canim Falls and Mahood Falls can be viewed from an easy, round-trip 2 km (1 mi) hike from the south side of the lake. • Camp and enjoy tranquil fishing on Mahood Lake. • In winter, take advantage of excellent snowmobiling, ice fishing, backcountry skiing and snowshoeing conditions. Crooked Lake Crooked Lake is a picturesque spot north of Canim Lake and a perfect side route for explorers and anglers looking to get off the beaten path. • Set up a tent on the beach, with views of the crystal-clear lake and mountains beyond, or enjoy a lakeside cabin.

Fawn Lake, Highway 24 Michael Bednar

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Explore with Grace & Leave No Trace. Here's How: Anyone visiting the outdoors should familiarize themselves with the seven Leave No Trace principles for leaving an imperceptible impact on the outdoors: • Plan ahead and prepare • Travel and camp on hard or durable surfaces • Discard waste properly • Leave what you find • Minimize the impact of campfires • Respect wildlife • Be considerate of other visitors and residents • If you pack it in, pack it out, and always be sure to stay on designated trails. Our alpine environments have short growing seasons and are very fragile, so always ride or hike on the path.

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Green Lake Jonny Bierman

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

CariBOO Gold Rush Trail With a landscape seemingly plucked from an old western movie, this corridor remains firmly rooted in cowboy culture. A sense of frontier adventure lives on in the pioneering spirit of those proud to call the Cariboo home. Here legends still echo in historic communities and revived ghost towns, most of which are linked by Highway 97 – the legendary Gold Rush Trail. Stretching from Lillooet and Cache Creek in the south to Hixon in the north, the Cariboo Gold Rush Trail is bordered by the mighty Fraser River in the west and the Cariboo Mountains in the east. From arid grasslands and pine and aspen forests to tranquil lakes and rushing rivers, its distinctive landscape is as diverse as its recreational and cultural attractions. Named in part after the once abundant woodland caribou, this was the first region in BC’s interior settled by nonIndigenous people. It played a significant role in early European settlement of the province. As the hub of the 1860s gold rush, the Cariboo Gold Rush Trail lured prospectors from around the world and caused mining towns and roadhouses to spring up almost overnight. Many communities along this historic route are still named according to their distance from Lillooet, or Mile 0. One of the largest surviving roadhouses is Historic Hat Creek Ranch. Located 11 km (7 mi) north of Cache Creek amid rolling sagebrush hills at the junction of Highways 97 and 99, this BC Heritage Site showcases elements of the Cariboo’s history. Outdoor recreational opportunities abound on the Cariboo Gold Rush Trail. In fact, many in the mountain biking community consider the area the “unofficial mountain biking capital of Canada.” Hikers can follow in the footsteps of history and explore trails first travelled by BC’s Indigenous peoples and later gold rush explorers. Unique Ghost Lake Falls David Jacobson Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

geological formations and diverse ecosystems are found throughout, where hikes can include limestone karsts, alpine meadows and scenic vistas. And in winter, you can enjoy cozy cabins and activities like snowshoeing, crosscountry skiing, ice fishing and snowmobiling. This is real cattle country, where riding enthusiasts can immerse themselves in the local cowboy culture at famous cattle and guest ranches, guided by experienced cowhands who will share their appreciation of this iconic way of life. In fact, the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast is home to more than half of the province’s guest ranches, ranging from those that provide gourmet restaurants, swimming pools, hot tubs, full-service spas and the full “glamping” experience to others offering a more rustic, traditional Canadian experience with guitars and cowboy songs and tall tales around a campfire. Bunk down in an old-fashioned log cabin or sleep under the stars in a snug bedroll. Wake at dawn to the howl of a distant coyote and the aroma of coffee, baked beans and bacon crisping over an open flame. And for those keen to learn more about cowboy history, a visit to the Museum of the Cariboo Chilcotin in Williams Lake, home to the BC Cowboy Hall of Fame, is a must. The region’s busy circuit of rodeos, including one of Canada’s largest, the Williams Lake Stampede, offers a more current take on cowboy culture. 16

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

The Cariboo Mountains, including the Cariboo Mountains Provincial Park, is well worth the journey to the furthest eastern side of the area to visit North America’s only inland temperate rainforest. As the northernmost subrange of the Columbia Mountains, the Cariboo Mountain Range is 7,700 sq km (3,000 sq mi) in area and about 245 km (152 mi) in length. More than 500 km (310 mi) from the coastline, endangered caribou herds feed on oceanic lichens growing in the forest, where some trees are up to 400 years old. Lillooet “Guaranteed Rugged” describes both the mountainous terrain around Lillooet and the active, year-round lifestyle this setting inspires. The landscape is wild, rocky and steep. Roads carved out of mountainsides offer ever-changing views of the Fraser River, and both locals and visitors alike revel in the thrill of living life here to the fullest. Easily accessible from north or south, Lillooet offers a blend of cultural and recreational opportunities, with a range of restaurants and lodging. Mountain biking and back-packing are just the outdoor adventures possible from spring through fall, along with unparalleled iceclimbing, heli-skiing and snowmobiling in winter.

Xwisten Experience Tours Jonah Gree

• Tour an ancient archeological village site and learn about the traditional wind-dried method of preserving salmon with Xwisten (hoysh-ten) Experience Tours (be sure to call ahead to confirm that experiences are available). • Get a glimpse of Lillooet’s past in the museum and visitor centre. Browse its collection of artifacts and gold mining relics or take a self-guided tour of turn-of-the-century architectural gems, such as Miyazki House, featuring 1890s architecture. • Try your hand at geocaching. With more than 100 caches in the trails around Lillooet, you can also enjoy local hiking and birdwatching while you’re at it. • Golf at the local sheep pasture golf course, 8 km (5 mi) south of Lillooet on the scenic Texas Creek Road. • Go wine tasting at one of two local wineries. Cache Creek Nestled along the Bonaparte River and renowned for its hospitality, Cache Creek is a popular stopover point. The community is an ideal base for some of BC’s best rockhounding, as well as canoeing, horseback riding, fishing

and hiking in dry grasslands, working ranches, market gardens and dramatic desert landscapes. • Explore the area with the Gold Country Geotourism Program and immerse yourself in tales of Gold Rush robberies and mysterious mine shafts as you locate hidden “caches.” • Visit Historic Hat Creek Ranch, a BC Heritage Site that offers a rare opportunity to explore one of the region’s original gold-rush roadhouses. At the junction of Highways 97 and 99, Historic Hat Creek Ranch also includes sections of the original Gold Rush Trail, and a Shuswap Nation village, where members of the Shuswap Nation share their history and culture. • Visit nearby Arrowstone Provincial Park to see massive Douglas fir forest, as well as wildlife galore. • Spend a sunny afternoon at Horsting’s Farm Market, just off the highway, and indulge in freshly baked goodies and locally grown fruits and vegetables. • Cache Creek is also home to one of the toughest ninehole golf courses in the province at Semlin Valley. Try its semi-arid course for something a little different. Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Hat Creek Ranch Jonny Bierman

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Loon Lake A short distance southeast of Clinton, Loon Lake is a fisher’s paradise. This deep, narrow, 14-km (9-mi) long lake steadily produces fish through the spring, summer and fall. Nestled between the Bonaparte Plateau and Arrowstone hills, Loon Lake is situated in a steep valley and home to many resorts, ranches and summer homes. There is history here too: the heritage barn and blacksmith shop at the junction of Highway 97 and Loon Lake Road was a stop for the BX Express during the gold rush as travellers made their way from Ashcroft up the Cariboo Waggon Road in the hopes of striking it rich. • Come to hike, walk and birdwatch in the surrounding hills. • If winter is more your season, come to snowshoe, ice-fish or just soak in the tranquility and big, starry skies.

disappearing streams and wildlife trails lure climbers, cavers, hikers and horseback riders. • Hike to what some locals call the “hole in the wall,” a unique limestone formation. Or take a picnic to Kelly Lake, famous for NASA’s exploration of its rare black coral deposits. • Enjoy a refreshing swim, fish for feisty rainbow trout or try a relaxing kayak or canoe trip around one of the many nearby lakes. • In winter, take advantage of over 60 km (37 mi) of Nordic ski trails. “The first time, it’s a vacation. After that, it’s coming home.”

Clinton Clinton is a small friendly community noted for its wild west ambience, gold rush and pioneer history, abundance of outdoor opportunities and stunning scenery. Its rich history is showcased by its original western storefronts, historical walking tours and antique shops. The surrounding landscapes are equally significant with their unique geological variations, such as Chasm Provincial Park’s Painted Chasm. Northeast of Clinton, this 8 km- (5 mi-) long bedrock box canyon features rock layers in shades of orange, pink, yellow and lavender.

Just 4 hours north of Vancouver 1-800-553-3533 www.sundanceguestranch.com saddleup@sundanceguestranch.com

And as BC’s “Guest Ranch Capital,” Clinton is a community hub for many guest ranches, including an award-winning Thai-influenced spa and ranch as well as more traditional, family-focused outfits offering trail riding, horsemanship classes, gold panning and sleigh rides. • Explore the Limestone Quarry, a haven for fossil hunters and rockhounds, or the Marble Range, where cliffs, caves,

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• Back in the Village, take in a live music event, such as Music in the Park, and don’t miss Clinton’s Annual Ball, held every May long weekend since 1868, or the annual Jamboree in August. 70 Mile House When 70 Mile House was established in 1862 as a hostel for Cariboo Waggon Road work crews, residents likely couldn’t imagine that the community would evolve into a thriving guest ranch and outdoor recreation hub. Set in typical Cariboo ranch country, on the southern edge of the Fraser Plateau, this area was formed from lava flows more than five million years ago. • Paddle a canoe or kayak on nearby Green Lake. • Indulge your sweet tooth at the Sugar Shack, a taste of Quebec with an expansive selection of maple syrup products, as well as the “best poutine west of Quebec.” • Visit nearby Big Bar Lake Provincial Park for a day or settle in for a camping stay. The park boasts spectacular lake views and great fishing, plus excellent boating and swimming. Visit its day-use area for a picnic or set up camp and explore the surrounding hospitable guest ranches and numerous pristine lakes. 100 Mile House 100 Mile House claims the title of “International Nordic Ski Capital,” with access to one of the longest groomed trail networks in Canada, a distinction it celebrates by displaying the “World’s Tallest Pair of Cross-Country Skis” outside its Visitor Centre. Another highlight is the community’s prime location on the Gold Rush Snowmobile Trail, a maintained, signed route and home base for local snowmobile clubs. • Stroll past outdoor murals honouring the area’s early pioneer families in the downtown core and take a photo with an original Barnard’s Express stagecoach. 100 Mile House played a key role as an 1860s stagecoach stop on the gold rush trail. • Stop in at the Parkside Art Gallery, located at the entrance to Centennial Park, to see local art, or take in some theatre or music performances at one of many community events at Martin Exeter Hall. • See a great variety of birds and wildlife at sites including the wheelchair-accessible 100 Mile Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary, with parking at the Visitor Information Centre. 20

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Williams Lake biking trails Hailey Elise

• In winter, bring your skis and explore the two trail systems on the 99 Mile Hill, and warm up after in the day lodge, open daily during ski season. 108 Mile Ranch Rumour has it that tens of thousands of dollars in gold nuggets were buried here in the late 1800s, the ill-gotten gains of hotel proprietors, the McVees. And indeed, stashes of gold have been unearthed at several local construction sites. • Visit the village’s 108 Mile Ranch Historic Site to see a collection of lakeside heritage buildings, including a huge log barn (built in 1908 to house 200 Clydesdales), 105 Mile Roadhouse, 108 Mile Telegraph office, an 1867 hotel and store, a trapper’s cabin, and 134 Mile schoolhouse, along with period implements and tools. • Stop in at the 108 Mile Rest Area to access the 108 Mile hiking, biking and cross-country ski trails. Lac la Hache This village with a strong history of ranching and agriculture is often referred to as the “Longest Town in the Cariboo.” Its resorts, ranches, restaurants and vacation homes are

scattered along the lake’s 19-km (12-mi) length. Before European fur traders came into the area, the Secwepemc (shi-huep-muh-k) established pit houses here. The Chilcotins (chilko-tins) who travelled through the region called the lake Kumatakwa, “Queen of the Waters.” Today, Lac la Hache is one of the most popular lakes along Highway 97. • Enjoy the lake’s riches with a power boat and water skis or a fishing rod. • In winter, take advantage of crisp, sunny days, ideal for ice fishing, snowshoeing, pond hockey, skating and skiing on nearby Mt. Timothy’s slopes. • Don’t miss the South Cariboo Garlic Festival, held in late August. 150 Mile House 150 Mile House is a quiet ranch land community known for its gold rush, pioneer history and log homes. It is home to the Little Red Schoolhouse, the oldest functional school building in the region. Constructed in 1896 beside the original Cariboo Waggon Road, the wood-frame, oneroom building is now a historical site and classroom, open to the public in summer. Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Quesnel River Michael Bednar

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

• Stay at one of several guest ranches found nearby and enjoy horseback riding as well as snowmobiling and snowshoeing in winter. • From 150 Mile House, most travellers decide whether to continue north to Williams Lake and Quesnel or head northeast along the Gold Rush Trail to the resort lakes around Horsefly and Likely and continue on the “Backroad to Barkerville.” Alkali Lake Alkali Lake is the location of one of the most touching stories in BC. For more than 35 years the Esk’etemc (esketem) First Nation have invited Alcoholics Anonymous members from around the world to their annual Pow Wow Arbor for a rodeo and conference to share inspirational stories. Alcohol addiction almost destroyed the Esk’etemc a half-century ago. The account of how this Indigenous community saved itself, through members taking control of their lives and the nurturing of dignity and hope, was brought to the screen in the 1985 film The Honour of All, still shown at international festivals. • Stay at the Esket Tiny House, part of the Esk’etemc First Nation. This one-of-a-kind cabin is stocked with the essentials including breakfast ingredients.

hundreds of small, picturesque lakes, creeks, rivers and waterfalls in the area. • Find your groove at the renowned Arts on the Fly Music Festival. Everyone in town gets involved to put together an eclectic selection of talented musicians for a full weekend of musical fun. • Exercise your adventure options with the area’s abundance of hiking, fishing, mountain biking, kayaking and canoeing. Or, in winter months, go backcountry skiing, snowmobiling or ice fishing. Likely Likely is located about 85 km (53 mi) northeast of 150 Mile House at the end of Quesnel Lake, which is the deepest fjord lake in North America. The community was originally called Quesnelle Dam, after the dam built nearby in 1898 to provide access to the Quesnel River. The name was changed in 1923 in honour of prospector John “Plato” Likely. Today, the local economy is driven by tourism, forestry and mining. • Unearth the area’s past at the nearby Bullion Pit Mine or in Cedar Point Provincial Park, home to the community’s Cedar City Mining Museum and Bullion Mine's giant

• Explore the rare ecosystem of low, middle and high elevation bunchgrass grasslands in the Churn Creek Protected Area, just south of Gang Ranch. The Protected Area is home to a significant petroglyph rock weighing about six tonnes (6.6 tons), which in 2012 was repatriated and placed at the mouth of Churn Creek, and an accessible interpretive trail and kiosk were installed to tell its story. Horsefly This bucolic town has become a unique home base for artists and outdoor adventurers seeking to explore the

COME EXPLORE

LIKELY EXPERIENCE WORLD CLASS NATURE & HISTORY IN THE HEART OF THE CARIBOO MOUNTAINS www.likely-bc.ca

John Wellburn

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

1906 Vulcan steam shovel. The park provides access to old mining trails, tourist information and a public boat launch to Quesnel Lake. • Explore nearby Quesnelle Forks, a hauntingly striking ghost town accessible by a dirt road 9 km (5.5 mi) from Likely. The town features a late-1800s graveyard and pioneer log cabins. There are no entrance fees or employees, no souvenir shops or cafes, just fragments of the town’s 1860s heyday. • Hike or snowmobile up nearby Yanks Peak for panoramic views of the Cariboo Mountains. (Seasonal backcountry road conditions vary; be sure to check with the local Likely Tourism Information Centre and Cedar Point Museum for current information prior to travelling.) • Journey on the scenic “Backroad to Barkerville,” a gravel forestry road that winds past stunning waterfalls and the Cariboo River in an alluring backcountry landscape of sub-alpine meadows. The route can be accessed seasonally by motorcycles and trucks. Quesnel Lake

Adventure in our backyard. tourismquesnel.com

Quesnel Lake, east of Likely, is considered the world’s deepest fjord lake and the deepest lake in BC, with a maximum depth of 511 m (1,677 ft). Here mature rainbow trout can reach up to 9 kg (20 lb), making it an excellent location for fishing. Due to the remote location, Quesnel Lake offers the ability to fish right from the shore and along tributary streams. • Explore the lake by boat, kayak, canoe or paddleboard during the summer months (always be alert and prepared for changing weather on this enormous lake). Williams Lake Located at the junction of Highways 97 and 20, Williams Lake has been a major crossroad in the region for centuries. Prior to the arrival of the first European settlers, the Williams Lake valley was a traditional meeting place for the Secwepemc (shi-huep-muh-k) First Nation. In fact, the city is named after a local Secwepemc Chief of the 1800s. Today, the hub city is the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast region’s largest urban centre. • Test your mettle at one of three mountain biking dedicated areas: Westsyde Ridge, Desous Mountain and Fox Mountain. With all three featuring tracks ranging from double-track beginner to epic cross-country and steep, gnarly downhills, many riders are spreading the word that the area offers the best wilderness biking in BC.

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Bowron Lake Provincial Park Destination BC/Robin O'Neill

• Make a beeline for Scout Island, a nature sanctuary at the west end of the lake to see a variety of species of birds. In addition to a beach area, nature house, picnic ground and boat launch, this nature sanctuary for birds and small wildlife is laced with trails. • Enjoy a walk downtown among quaint shops, retail stores and art galleries, some featuring local art and Indigenous gifts. A variety of restaurants are found on nearly every side street. The city has three golf courses, the Museum of the Cariboo Chilcotin, the BC Cowboy Hall of Fame, and the very popular River trail, spanning 12 km (7.5 mi) from downtown to the Fraser River. • Take in the Williams Lake Stampede during the Canada Day long weekend (July 1). Professional rodeo athletes from around the globe compete for big purse money in traditional rodeo and unique home-grown events. Soda Creek Soda Creek is a small community 16 km (10 mi) north of Williams Lake in Xat’sull (hat-sooth) ancestral territory. This area played a role in the search for gold as a terminus for the SS Enterprise, the first sternwheeler steamboat in the upper Fraser River, launched in 1863. As travellers on

their way to the goldfields reached the end of the Cariboo Waggon Road, they’d continue on via the steamboat to Quesnel, at least until the road was completed in 1865. The town experienced another boom in 1910, when the Grand Trunk Pacific Railroad arrived from eastern Canada and several steam sternwheeler boats were built to travel the Fraser River. • Learn about Indigenous life and culture at the nearby Xat’sull Heritage Village, featuring a pit house and teepees, open during the summer. Join in a guided tour or workshop, or participate in a sweat lodge ceremony. • If your passion is mountain biking, try out the Xat’sull trail network of over 30 km (19 mi) of trails with stunning views of the heritage village and the Fraser River. McLeese Lake This picturesque resort community, just 30 minutes north of Williams Lake, was originally known as Mud Lake. It was renamed in the 1880s in honour of nearby Soda Creek’s Robert McLeese, who owned a sternwheeler, hotel and store and was postmaster of Soda Creek for more than 25 years.

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Barkerville Historic Town & Park Tyler Cave

• Enjoy water sports, trout fishing, hiking, camping and offroading. • In winter, take advantage of the hiking trails on skis or a snowmobile, or skate or ice-fish on the lake. Kersley Kersley is a rural community south of Quesnel, with nearby communities including Alexandria. • Enjoy a walk through Sisters Creek Park, with a recreational walking/equestrian trail that follows the Fraser River. • Hike or bike the trails or come during winter to enjoy the many snow and ice sports of the area. Quesnel Quesnel is situated at the confluence of the Fraser and Quesnel rivers, with outdoor adventures aplenty. Settlers flocked here by the thousands during the Cariboo Gold Rush, and the North Cariboo’s main urban centre became historically known as the Gold Pan City. Many reminders of the city’s gold rush heyday are scattered throughout downtown’s 30 heritage sites, including the original 1862 Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post. • Explore the Quesnel and District Museum and Archives, next to the Visitor Centre, rated a top community museums in BC with one of North America’s most significant collections of Chinese artifacts. 26

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

• Experience Quesnel’s living history during its famous Billy Barker Days, which commemorate the rowdy era of the 1860s with a parade, midway, dances and rodeo. • For more living history in winter, come watch the Gold Rush Trail Sled Dog Mail Run, featuring dogsled teams and avid, energetic cross-country skiers. • Don’t miss visiting the Cottonwood House Heritage Site, an 1861 roadhouse with barns, animals, stagecoach rides, old-fashioned candy store and a great picnic spot. Just 26 km (16 mi) east of Quesnel on Highway 26, the provincial heritage site is wheelchair accessible, including 3 km (2 mi) of trails that loop around the site alongside the Cottonwood River. • Breathe in the fresh air at one of the abundant urban green spaces such as Alex Fraser Park, the “Petunia Mile” and the Heritage Rose Garden, with its 200 plus floribunda and tea roses. Hixon Hixon Creek is named for prospector Joseph Foster Hixon, who found gold in the Fraser River near here in 1866. Situated 60 km (37 mi) north of Quesnel on Highway 97, the community offers accommodation and supplies for adventurers exploring Hixon Falls and Three Sisters Lake Provincial Park at Stone Creek. • Take a horseback riding tour or hike the many trails.

• Pitch your tent at one of the many camping and RV sites. Wells The mountain town of Wells, an 82-km (51-mi) drive east of Quesnel, and the jumping-off point for the Bowron Lakes canoe circuit, was built as a company town for Fred Gold Quartz Mine. The promise of more gold in the Cariboo gave many men an opportunity to escape the great depression of the 1930s to what was then northern BC’s largest community and cultural centre. While there are fewer than 300 year-round residents in Wells today, many of its heritage buildings have been restored, including the Wells Hotel and the Sunset Theatre. Other architectural landmarks sport rainbow colours, in a nod to the town’s vibrant arts scene. The Island Mountain Arts Society’s celebrated art school offers classes in the visual, literary and performing arts. • Challenge yourself on the popular 7 Summits Bike & Hike Trek that lures mountain bikers from across the globe. The area has hundreds of kilometres of stunningly scenic trails to suit all users and is accessible from the town centre. • The winter season is great to explore the area with a hutto-hut cross-country getaway in the Mt. Murray Area. • If snowmobiling is more your scene, ride the Wells network of snowmobile trails that link to Likely, straddling the Trans Canada Snowmobile Trail, with access to the Prince George snowmobile clubhouse. Bowron Lake Park

Barkerville Hostric Town & Park Thomas Drasdauskis Barkerville Historic Town & Park Thomas Drasdauskis

Barkerville Historic Town & Park Just outside of Wells, you will find the provincial historic site of Barkerville. Although many boomtowns sprung to life during the Cariboo Gold Rush, Barkerville’s collection of multi-purpose buildings, squeezed against the bank of a mountain creek, was the largest and most resilient. By 1958, when the provincial government declared the community a BC Heritage site, the town was virtually deserted. The last residents were relocated as work began on restoring the town’s “heyday splendour.” Now one of Canada’s National Historic Sites, Barkerville is BC’s best known-heritage destination and the western North America’s largest historic site.

At almost 150,000 ha (370,000 ac), this park is huge, as are the snowcapped Cariboo Mountains that rim this wilderness expanse. It is the provincial park’s most unusual physical feature that is key to its popularity: a rectangularshaped water system and wildlife sanctuary that forms a 116 km (72 mi) canoe circuit. Where else can you paddle for 10 days without backtracking and end up back where you began?

• Stroll through the village and stop for a quaff of sarsaparilla or snap a photo at the studio

This former home of the southern Carrier, Athabaskan and Dene First Nations, who built kekulis (kik-will-ees) or pit houses close to Kibbee Creek, is now an international attraction, one so popular that canoeists must reserve their “paddle slots” well in advance.

• View over 135 restored buildings that are on display, as “locals” set off to work at the mine or bring a bygone era to life in a myriad of other ways.

• Tour the 19th-century Chinatown and intriguing cemetery. • Be greeted by interpreters roaming the streets as historical characters as if you’ve just arrived by stagecoach.

• As you dip your paddle, spy an unparalleled combination of mountain scenery and wildlife, including osprey, eagles, moose, mink, beavers and bears.

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Be Respectful, Prepared & Safe with Wildlife. Here's How: Be Respectful In the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast, the chances of encountering wildlife are high, but the prospect of human-wildlife conflict is low. You might meet beavers, squirrels, and rabbits, or animals that will stop you in your tracks, such as moose, black and grizzly bears, wolves, elk, coyotes, cougars and wolverines. Most wild animals want nothing to do with you. Make them aware of your presence and give them space to move away. Respect them. Be prepared When travelling through bear country, always carry a fresh can of bear spray on your belt or waist strap. Know how and when to use it. For more information and a checklist to stay safe in our region, visit landwithoutlimits.com/safetravel. Stash Your Goods Stashing food and scented items in a secured area is easy if you’re travelling in a car or RV. Most campgrounds in bear country offer metal bear-proof boxes or poles for hanging your food. A waterproof bag for your food and a couple of carabiners are useful additions. If you must improvise, a long piece of rope thrown over a pole or tall tree should do the trick in the wilderness. A portable bear canister, available at sporting goods stores or online, is another great option. If there are no trees to hang your food, bury it under a cairn or rocks – as a last resort. For more information please visit https:// landwithoutlimits.com/plan-your-adventure/knowbefore-you-go/ 28

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Chilko River, Tsylos Park Destination BC/Yuri Choufour

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Eagan Lake, South Cariboo Michael Bednar

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Ootsa Lake

Whitesail Lake

FIORDLAND RECREATION AREA

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Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Toursim Association/Jill Schick

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Advertisers’ Index Floatplane Base Advertisers’ Index Visitor Centre Visitor Centre Info Booth Info Booth Parks Parks Tsilhqot’in Title area

The Fishing Highway

Mt. Waddington 4016m (Highest Mountain in B.C.)

Port Hardy

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Kingcome Inlet rlo

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Port McNeill

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Airport Floatplane Base

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Airport Ferry Routes

Railways Secondary Roads Ferry Routes Railways

Sapeye Lake Bluff Lake

Silverthorne Mountain 2896m

Main Road Highway Secondary Main Road Roads

Kleena Kleene

Monarch Mountain 3533m

Main Highway

Clearwater Lake

Landing

Nimpo Lak

Charlotte Lake

Turner Lakes

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BC Ferry Routes

Nimpo Lake

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Oweekeno (Wuikinuxv)

Rivers Inlet Dawsons

Calvert Island

Anahim Lake

Hunlen Falls

Mt. Saugstad 2908m

60 km of gravel surfaced road from Anahim Lake to the bottom of the Hill

Stuie

Namu

Hakai Pass

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ITCHA ILGACHUZ PROVINCIAL PARK

Heckman Pass 1524m

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So mith

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Shearwater

Hunter HAKAI Island LUXVBALIS CONSERVANCY AREA

River la C oo Hagensborg Bella

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Campbell Island

Firvale

Bella Coola

Kin

Denny Island

Waglisla (Bella Bella)

Great il M Bear Rainforest

Ocean Falls

Price Island

Anahim Peak 1876m

RAIN R A N B OW GE

Aristazabal Swindle Queen Island Island

SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE Klemtu/Kitasoo PROVINCIAL MARINE PARK

Charlotte Sound Lored

PROVINCIAL PARK

River

KITASOO SPIRIT BEAR CONSERVANCY

Nuxalk-Carrier G Alexander Mackenzie H

De an

DEAN RIVER ESTUARY PROTECTED AREA TWEEDSMUIR

Kimsquit

Mount Qenxv’

Moose Lake

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Bu te

Princess Royal Island

Kuyakuz Lake

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Klina klini River

Kilometres

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Butedale

KITLOPE 50 HERITAGE CONSERVANCY PROTECTED AREA

ha n nel

Campania Island

Gil Island

Tatelkuz Lake

ENTIAKO PROVINCIAL PARK & PROTECTED AREA

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Hartley Bay

Kenny Dam

Tetachuck Lake

Eutsuk Lake

Fing La

Gold River

Campbell River

ND Courtenay

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PELICAN PROVINCIAL PARK

Redstone

Puntzi Lake

Ch l

Chaunigan Lake

Tatlayoko Lake

Nemiah Valley

SOU

Chilko Lake

Mt. Queen Bess 3313m

Mt. Timothy Ski Hill

River

Taseko Lakes

CHI

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2833m

rid

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SOUTH CHILCOTIN MOUNTAIN PARK

Seasonal Road

Sulphurous Lake

Lone Butte

House

Dog Creek

Big Bar

MARBLE RANGE PROV. PARK

EDGE HILLS PROVINCIAL PARK Pavilion 99

Clinton

Cache Creek

Hat Creek

Lillooet 1

Lillooet Lake

Ste in

Kanaka Bar

97D

Merritt 5 5

Hell’s Gate

To Kelowna Aspen Grove

97C

Squamish

Powell River

Spuzzum

Comox 99

Sechelt To Victoria

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Nanaimo

GOLDEN EARS PARK

Gibsons

Vancouver

Slave Lake

Princeton

Yale

Harrison Lake

Hope 7

Chilliwack

➨

97C

Boston Bar

N YO

GARIBALDI PARK

To Banff/ Calgary

Kamloops

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SER

Whistler

Sun Peaks Ski Resort

Logan Lake

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STEIN VALLEY NLAKA’PAMUX HERITAGE PARK

Birken Mount Pemberton Currie

Spences Bridge

Barriere

Kamloops Lake

97C

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Little Fort

Ashcroft

D’Arcy Gl

Loon Lake

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CHASM PROVINCIAL PARK

BIRKENHEAD LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK Lillo

Bonaparte Lake

70 Mile House

Clearwater

PROVINCIAL PARK

Lake

Green Lake

Big Bar Lake

Gold Bridge Bralorne Seton Portage

Deka Lake Bridge Lake

Watch Sheridan Bridge Lac des Lake Lake Roches

FLAT LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK

Tyaughton Lake Carpenter Lake

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Canim Lake TAWEEL Forest Grove

108 Mile Ranch

Black Dome

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MOOSE VALLEY Alkali PROVINCIAL PARK 100 Lake Snag Lake Mile

JUNCTION SHEEP RANGE PARK

PARK

Mahood Lake

Spring Lake

Springhouse

CHURN CREEK PROTECTED AREA Jesmond

LCO

WELLS

PROVINCIAL

Canim Lake

Timothy Lake

Canyon

BIG CREEK PROVINCIAL PARK

TS’YL-OS PROVINCIAL PARK Mt. Warner

Homathko Icefield

150 Mile House

Gang Ranch

Tsuniah Lake

Murtle Lake

Clearwater Lake

GRAY

Riske Farwell Creek

Crooked Lake

Big Timothy 2157m

Dugan DuganLake Lake

Raven Lake Lake Raven

Big Creek

Eureka Peak 2426m

Horsefly

Till Till LakeLake

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NUNSTI PROVINCIAL PARK

Big Lake

Williams Lake

Big

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Choelquoit Lake

Taseko River

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Lake

Horsefly Black Lake Creek

Xat’sull (Soda Creek)

Hanceville (Lee’s Corner)

Eagle Lake

Tatla Lake Horn Lake

BULL CANYON PROVINCIAL PARK

Chilanko Forks

Tatla Lake

Alexis Creek

Horsefly Mountain 1793m

CARIBOO

PROVINCIAL OMTNS. PARK U N T A Hobson I N Lake S Azure

Chezacut

Nazko Lakes

Keithley Creek

Bootjack Lake Bootjack Lake

TyeeTyee Lake Lake

Fir Lake NAZKO Stum Stum Owen Lake Lake Lake LAKE Fir Lake PARK WHITE

Seasonal gravel road from Likely to Barkerville

Hen Ingram Quesnel Hen LakeIngram Lake Lake Likely

McLeese Lake

Owen Lake

River

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Quesnelle Forks

River

Lake

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Fraser

Tzenzaicut Tzenzaicut Lake

Dragon Lake

Mitchell Lake

Yanks Peak

Quesnel

Ghost Lake

Mt. Agnes 1983m

Edmonton Tête Jaune Cache

Puntchesakut Puntchesakut LakeLake

Nazko Puntchesakut Marmot N Puntataenkut Marmot Lake Lake Lake Lake

Barkerville

Ski Hill

Ten Mile Lake

Bouchie Lake

Fishpot Fishpot Lake Lake

Grease/ Heritage Trail

Bowron Lakes

Mt. Robson 3954m

Cinema

➨ To Jasper/ 16

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WEST TWIN PROVINCIAL PARK & PROTECTED AREA

Blackwater

Batnuni Lake

Euchiniko Lakes e

Wells Troll Mtn.

Hixon

Hanham Boat Lake Lake

KLUSKOIL LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK

Mt. Murray 1989m

BOWRON LAKE PROVINCIAL PARK

FRASER RIVER PROVINCIAL PARK

r ilako Rive

Tatuk Lake

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Stoner

FINGER-TATUK Naltesby PROVINCIAL PARK Lake

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Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

The ChilCotiN The wild and natural landscape of the Chilcotin invites you to experience nature and hospitality as it once was. Unlike the Cariboo, the vast, spectacular Chilcotin – fringed by the Coast Mountains to the west and Fraser River to the east – was never invaded by gold-crazed prospectors. There are fewer roads, little industry and barely a scattering of residents, the majority of whom are Indigenous. Little surprise then of the diversity of wildlife found here, including populations of rare white pelicans, trumpeter swans, long-billed curlews, bears, lynx, moose and wolves, Canada’s largest numbers of bighorn sheep and rare herds of wild horses. Here, outdoor thrills range from aerial tours of ice fields and deep powder heli-skiing adventures to multi-day hikes of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park and horseback riding to photography treks in the stunning Charlotte Alplands. Adventurers flock here to tackle one of the most challenging whitewater rivers in North America, the Chilcotin, and its tributary, the Chilko. Anglers come to pit their lures against native rainbow trout in the Blackwater and Upper Dean rivers’ fast-action fisheries, or to fly to remote lakes in the fly-fishing nirvana of the West Chilcotin. Of course, there are also soft adventure whitewater and adventure excursions to be had. Tweedsmuir Park, a rugged 980,000-ha (2,421,632-ac) expanse, also draws outdoor lovers, with top-notch fishing, hiking, heli-skiing, camping and wilderness horseback riding, the Turner Lake Chain canoe circuit and Canada’s third highest free-falling waterfall. Hunlen Falls plunges 260 m (853 ft) from Turner Lake into a deep gorge, ending up in the Atnarko River below. Tweedsmuir Provincial Park also boasts stunning terrain, notably the multi-hued peaks of its Rainbow Range, an astonishing spectrum of reds, oranges, yellows and lavenders created by mineralized volcanic lavas and sands. (Note: Tweedsmuir Provincial Park is a true wilderness park. Visitors must be experienced backcountry adventurers or use one of the area’s professional guides.) Perkins Peak Jesaja Class Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Chilanko Forks Jesaja Class

The Chilcotin is linked to the BC interior by Highway 20, which crosses the Chilcotin Plateau and Coast Mountains, stretching 456 km (283 mi) west of Williams Lake to Bella Coola. En route, the highway connects alpine meadows, biodiverse grasslands, dramatic canyons and mountain peaks. The rolling hills and terraces of the Chilcotin Ark grasslands have supported wildlife and livestock-grazing for more than 130 years and continue to support an estimated 40% of BC’s at-risk wildlife, rare plant species and ecologically significant, threatened habitats. Towering over these ice-carved plateaus and valleys is Mt. Waddington, at 4,016 m (13,176 ft) the highest peak to lie entirely within the province. Three major river systems, the Homathko, Klinaklini and Dean, run westward through the Coast Mountains. The Ark’s southeast is drained by the great Chilko, Chilcotin and Fraser river systems, where grassland canyons feature desert landscapes similar to those found in the southwestern United States. Nothing reflects the spirit of the Chilcotin more than Highway 20. Known as the “Freedom Highway,” this highway finally made road access to the Pacific Ocean possible in 1953, when it was completed by local volunteers working with just two bulldozers and supplies purchased on credit. The communities of the Chilcotin are strung along its length like beads on a necklace, each with its own story and general store. These hospitable and historic community landmarks continue to play a vital role in the region as community centres and meeting hubs, while still functioning as multi-purpose shops. With the bulk of the Chilcotin accessed off Highway 20, its southern wilds are most easily approached from Vancouver 36

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

and Whistler via Lillooet on Highway 99, or via Lytton and the Fraser Canyon on Highway 12. The northeast Chilcotin, including Nazko, is accessed via the City of Quesnel. Adventurers may cross the Fraser River at Quesnel and follow gravel roads south through Marguerite to Highway 20 at Meldrum Creek, or head east at Rudy Johnson Bridge to Williams Lake. Before journeying off main highways into the unspoiled wilderness of the Chilcotin backcountry, travellers should ensure they have sufficient fuel, accurate, detailed maps and tires suitable for gravel roads. Nazko Nazko is a small Indigenous community 100 km (62 mi) west of Quesnel, nestled on the iconic northeast Chilcotin Plateau, where the main draw is the surrounding valley, lakes and rivers. The valley lies within the traditional territory of the Dakelh (carry-er) people, who once traded widely with neighbouring tribes, exchanging eulachon oil, dried meats and obsidian along the Nuxalk-Carrier (new-hawk carry-er) Grease Trail. Here in 1793, explorer Alexander Mackenzie was guided by the Carrier on an epic journey that made him the first European to reach the Pacific Ocean by land. • Explore the several historical sites in the valley, including the Blackwater Homestead, Krestenuk Trading Post, Old Red School House and Chuntezni’i’ and Homesteader cemeteries. • Hike or horseback ride through spectacular meadows or partake in excellent fly-fishing, canoeing, snowmobiling,

Nordic skiing, snowshoeing and “trapper cabin” retreats in the area. Seton Portage Once the site of a unique railway system, Seton Portage is a historic rural community located between Seton and Anderson lakes, just 25 km (15 mi) by boat or (78 km (48 mi) by road over Mission Mountain) west of Lillooet. During the Fraser Canyon gold rush of 1858-1860, thousands of prospectors followed what was often known as the “Lakes Route” from the south. They swept through this narrow strip of land and across a wooden rail link built to connect the community’s two fjord-like lakes as they pushed north to the Cariboo goldfields. • Hop aboard the Kaoham Shuttle Train for a one-ofa-kind journey along the shores of turquoise Seton Lake through the third-longest tunnel on the CN Rail line. This train operates as a shuttle and vital means of transportation for locals between Lillooet and Seton Portage and should be booked in advance. • Go fishing, hiking and boating or visit the nearby pub and meet the friendly locals. Gold Bridge & Bralorne – Bridge River Valley Surrounded by the towering peaks of the South Chilcotin Mountains, 105 km (65 mi) west of Lillooet in the Bridge River Valley, the communities of Gold Bridge and Bralorne sprang to life during the Great Depression with the 1932 opening of a large gold mine. The Bralorne Pioneer Mine would produce more than 120 tonnes (125 tons) before its closure in 1971, making it the richest gold mine in Canadian history. The mine prompted construction of the towns of Gold Bridge and Bralorne, with schools, churches, homes, offices, recreation halls and rustic hunting lodges. After lying abandoned for many years, the mine reopened in 2011 in response to rising gold prices and is again producing gold. • Stop in at the Haylmore Heritage site for a taste of the early history and tips on what is happening in the valley during your visit. • If outdoor adventure is more your style, enjoy the valley’s wealth of fishing, hunting and rockhounding. • Head out on a multi-day guided excursion into the wildlife-rich Southern Chilcotin Mountains Provincial Park, a particularly popular destination for alpinists. • Stay at one of the resorts situated on the shores of several

local lakes and try out air-assisted mountain biking or hiking or enjoy the numerous well-marked biking trails easily accessible by road. • Winter is a particularly exciting time here: go snowmobiling on spectacular glaciers or take advantage of the phenomenal heli-skiing. Riske Creek Riske Creek is a small community set amidst sweeping grasslands on the Chilcotin’s eastern border, 47 km (29 mi) west of Williams Lake. The community is named after Polish pioneer and entrepreneur L.W. Riske, who built a sawmill and flour mill here during the 1860s and sent supplies and produce to the Cariboo goldfields. • Stay and relive history in the 1940s hunting lodge, one of the last examples of authentic pioneer-style log construction in the Chilcotin. • Head to Junction Sheep Range Provincial Park, south of Riske Creek near the confluence of the Fraser and Chilcotin rivers, to see bighorn sheep; this 4,573 ha (11,300 ac) preserve shelters some 500 bighorn sheep, one-fifth of the world’s population. Hikers may spot the animals among the hoodoos or scaling the preserve’s

Built in 1940 as a Hunting & Fishing Lodge, the 10 room Lodge is one of the last remaining authentic frontier Lodges in B.C.

Burger Bar/Bakery

Open May - Late September Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am - 6:00 pm Light Lunches, Fresh Baked Treats to devour inside or boxed to go Get away for a weekend, a night, or a Special Occasion (Reservations a must) Anniversary, Birthday, Dinners or Lunches • Family reunions, craft retreats, car/bike/snowmobile & walking clubs Bed & Bale (bring your horse) Hallmark Special Occasions

EST. 1940

Come and stay with our family for a true Canadian Experience! March 1 - December 31

Owners Kurt & Brenda Van Ember (since April, 2017) www.thehistoricchilcotinlodge.com chilcotinlodge@gmail.com 250-659-5646 │ Hwy 20, Riske Creek, BC Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Near Tatla Lake Jesaja Class

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

steep sandstone riverbanks; in the surrounding area, black bears, coyotes, foxes and cougars are also found. • Hike at nearby Farwell Canyon to see the dry canyon’s limestone and sandstone walls, hoodoos and other intriguing water-carved formations and view ancient pictographs on the cliff faces. Here you can also observe traditional Indigenous fishers dip-netting for salmon in the late summer and fall. Gang Ranch Gang Ranch is located south of Riske Creek on the west bank of the Fraser River. It is the second-largest ranch in Canada, after the Douglas Lake Ranch. The ranch was started by two American brothers (Thaddeus and Jerome Harper), after striking out on the gold rush trail in 1863 when they began to drive cattle from the Northern US to feed hungry gold miners in the area. • Visit Gang Ranch and nearby Churn Creek Protected Area for a glimpse of ranching history and to enjoy the stunning plateau scenery. The Protected Area is home to a significant petroglyph rock weighing about six tonnes (6.6 tons), which in 2012 was repatriated and placed at the mouth of Churn Creek, and an accessible interpretive trail and kiosk was installed to tell its story. Hanceville About 50 km (31 mi) west of Riske Creek, a roadside plaque describes the legendary Yukon cattle drive of Norman Lee, who set out from his Chilcotin ranch in 1898 with 200 head of cattle on a disastrous trek to Dawson City. Lee later wrote a chronicle of the misadventure (which later became a book entitled Klondike Cattle Drive) and set up shop at “Lee’s Corner” at the intersection of Highway 20 and Hanceville Cut-off Road. During the forest fire of 2017, the general store and cabins at the intersection were destroyed, but the area continues to be known as “Lee’s Corner.” • Venture southwest into the Tsilhqot’in (tseelh-coht-een) Title Area’s Nemiah Valley for wild horse and wildlife viewing opportunities. Big Creek Travel south of Hanceville on a popular backcountry circle tour to Riske Creek through Farwell Canyon to the unincorporated community of Big Creek. Once home to the Chilcotin district post office from 1907 to 1975, there is little evidence of the former town today. Lodges and guest ranches in the area offer popular rest and relaxation

getaways for those keen to get off the beaten path. • Set your line on nearby Fletcher Lake; its healthy population of fat and feisty rainbow trout ensures its small campground is popular every holiday long weekend. Xeni Gwet’in Caretaker Area The Xeni Gwet’in (honey-ko-teen) Caretaker Area, which lies within the traditional territory of the Xeni Gwet’in First Nation in the Tsihqot’in (tseelh-coht-een) Title Area, shelters one of the last remaining herds of wild horses in North America. In fact, results of recent DNA tests suggest these mustangs are genetically linked to horses brought to the North American continent hundreds of years ago from Russia and Spain. The remote, pristine valley, not connected to the rest of the Chilcotin by road until 1973, is home to members of the Xeni Gwet’in First Nation and assorted ranches, who can assist in coordinating wild horse adventures. • For an immersive experience, book into the Nemiah Valley Lodge, an all-inclusive wellness and adventure stay with the Xeni Gwet’in First Nation.

Feel the Freedom

Adventure Package with Camp Trip Trail Riding ❖ Fishing ❖ Hunting Comfortable 4-star Canada-Select Guest Ranch 5 rooms, 1 suite and 2 outside cabins. En-suite bathrooms. All-inclusive package including meals, some activities and free use of all facilities.

www.bigcreeklodgebc.com office@bigcreeklodgebc.com, +1 778 784 4803 WhatsApp now: +1 250 855 8186 Big Creek Lodge, 7793 Witte Road, Big Creek, BC

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park Tyler Cave

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Alexis Creek Just 20 km (12.5 mi) west of Hanceville is the namesake community of Chief Alexis of the Tsilhqot’in First Nation, who was chief during the time of the Chilcotin War. Nearby are two historic sites where fierce intertribal battles were fought between the Tsilhqot'in (sill-ko-teen) and invading Secwepemc (shoo-shwahp) and Nuxalk (new-hawk): Bull Canyon and Battle Rock. • Stock up on basic snacks, supplies and travel information at the tourist info booth in Alexis Creek (full washroom facilities are also available) before journeying west or into the backcountry alongside the waters of the Chilcotin River. • Stop at Bull Canyon, former site of the Hudson Bay Trading Post, to take in the tranquil setting. Redstone Redstone is a small Indigenous community 36 km (22 mi) west of Alexis Creek on Highway 20, where the Redstone store is a key stop for fuel and supplies. Just outside of the village on Highway 20, Kinikinik Restaurant and Store serves certified-organic vegetables and meats, including grass-fed beef, pork, lamb and poultry, sourced from its adjoining ranch and abattoir. Puntzi Lake, just 22 km (13 mi) west of Redstone, is a major draw for birdwatchers. American white pelicans use the lake as a food source in early spring and throughout the summer, while trumpeter swans feed here in the fall until the lake freezes. • Stay at one of the fishing and hunting resorts or camp at one of the serviced RV campsites found lakeside and fish the lake’s kokanee and rainbow trout from the spring months through the autumn ones. • If winter is more your season, enjoy the trails with a snowmobile.

• Go hiking, biking, canoeing, kayaking, fishing or hunting on and around Puntzi Lake, 11 km (7 mil) off the highway at Chilanko Forks. • Bird watching is another well-known draw here, with the American white pelicans stopping over from early spring throughout the summer. Trumpeter swans feed here in the fall until the lake freezes over. • Stay and fish from one of several fishing resorts and serviced RV campsites located around the lake. • Stop in for lunch or a sweet treat at the Puntzi Lake Bakery Cafe. Taseko Lakes Two lakes (Upper and Lower Taseko) comprise the Taseko Lakes area, which are the continuation of the upper Taseko River. The name is based on a name in the Tsilhqot’in language, Dasiqox Biny, meaning “Mosquito River.” The lakes are divided by the short Taseko Narrows which provide an important crossing place for deer. • Immerse yourself in this immense wilderness area with an authentic packhorse adventure.

www.eaglebearlodge.com 3 hours east of Bella Coola, 15 min. from Tatla Lake, BC

• Kick it up at the community’s Redstone Rodeo, held annually in August, meet locals and explore the area. Chilanko Forks & Puntzi Lake Chilanko Forks is an unincorporated settlement as well as an Indigenous community of the Tsilhqot’in (tseelh-cohteen) people, located on Highway 20, 176 km (107 mi) west of Williams Lake. The community is on the north bank of the Chilanko River, west of Redstone. Home to the Chilanko Forks Wildlife Management Area, a protected marshland for waterfowl, the region is a great place for bird watching and wildlife viewing in the summer months.

David Hemmings Photo Tours info@eaglebearlodge.com 250.267.2807 Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Tatlayoko Lake Located on the Homathko River, Tatlayoko Lake, part of the land claim of the Tsilhqot’in people, is positioned just upstream of the entrance of Homathko series of canyons en route to the sea at the head of Bute Inlet. The community of Tatlayoko Lake is located at the northern end of the lake. • Explore the lake’s crystal-clear waters and craggy peaks. • Rent a rustic lakeside cabin, head into the backcountry for hiking or mountain biking, explore on horseback, or take to the water on a kayak, canoe or paddleboard for a truly serene experience. Tatla Lake Tatla Lake is located on the western edge of the Chilcotin grasslands, 108 km (67 mi) west of Alexis Creek, where Irish pioneer Robert Graham started a ranching legacy. In 1902, Graham and his wife purchased the Tatla Lake place from Benny Franklin. The couple built a fine new house and, in 1930, a store. Today that house, adjacent to the Tatla Lake Manor, is the Graham Inn, specializing in cooking up delectable meals. The backcountry

resort and guiding operations showcase the grasslands’ biodiverse ecosystem. Tatla Lake also acts as the gateway to three major mountain valleys: West Branch, Chilko and Tatlayoko, which extend south via secondary roads. (Before venturing off the main road, please be aware of the Tsilhqot’in Title Area boundaries.) • Bring your hiking boots to access some stellar trails, such as the easy, 1.4 km (1 mi) Bluff Lake trail, or the moderately challenging Butler Peak Recreational Loop, a 5 km (3 mi) trail that is great for backpacking, camping and hiking. • Go flight-seeing or heli-touring to a number of impressive wilderness destinations – including the massive Homathko Ice Field and Mt. Waddington, the highest peak in BC, set in the Coast Range – from nearby Bluff Lake. • Angle for fat rainbow trout and Dolly Varden. • Stay at a nearby lodge and take part in wildlife viewing and horseback riding. Kleena Kleene This tiny settlement is just 31 km (19 mi) west of Tatla Lake on Highway 20 and minutes away from Clearwater Lake, a departure point for float-plane excursions to remote fishing lakes and rivers and the region’s celebrated alpine wilderness. Backcountry enthusiasts enjoy stunning vistas from the lookout point on 2,800 m (9,300 ft) Perkins Peak, hikes to Klinaklini Falls and heli-hikes in the massive Pantheon Range. • Stay at a local guest ranch or lodge. Many offer boat touring, photography treks, working ranch holidays and excellent horseback riding excursions, from guided day trips to multi-day camping trail rides in the Charlotte Alplands Alpine Wilderness Area.

Breathtaking scenery, cabin rentals, world class trout fishing, wild horses, hiking, canoeing, wildlife viewing, eco tourism and relaxation in harmony with nature. 1-888-879-8885 www.chauniganlodge.com

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• Enjoy fishing and wilderness canoeing on Big Stick, Clearwater or One Eye lakes. • If hunting is more your game, embark from Kleena Kleene on a guided expedition for moose, bears, mountain goats and wolves. Charlotte Lake Located 11 km (6.8 mi) southeast of Nimpo Lake, 16-km (10-mi) long Charlotte Lake is a haven for fly fishers who come for the rainbow trout. Birding enthusiasts enjoy the loons, bald eagles, osprey and trumpeter swans (one of the heaviest birds capable of flight) found in this area. • The Charlotte Alplands Wilderness Area includes 75 lakes, numerous alpine ecosystems and the headwaters of one of BC’s purest and most important salmon river systems, the Atnarko. The area features rare wildflowers and abundant wildlife.

Wilderness Lake Destination BC/Kari Medig

Nimpo Lake

Anahim Lake Located just 135 km (84 mi) east of Bella Coola, Anahim Lake is in the traditional territory of the Ulkatcho (ulhk’acho) First Nation, a Dakelh (Carrier) First Nations. The community is the eastern gateway to the rugged southern wilderness of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park and the dramatic Rainbow Range of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, where peaks of eroded lava and fragmented rock display a spectrum of vivid red, orange, lavender and yellow hues. Another geographic wonder in this area is Anahim Peak, a spectacular pillared cone of volcanic rock rich in obsidian. The mineral was once an important trading commodity for for the Tsilhqot'in (sill-ko-teen) people, who once used it extensively for weapon-making. Anahim Lake Airport is the main airport for the Chilcotin Plateau, with regularly scheduled air service to Vancouver.

Nimpo Lake is a launching point for flight-seeing tours and fly-in fishing trips to the West Chilcotin’s lakes and rivers. From here, adventurers can access isolated cabins nestled in dramatic backcountry settings.

• Learn of the Indigenous history permeating this region by viewing the remains of large wooden “culla culla” houses at Ulkatcho on Gatcho Lake and at Natsadalia Point on Anahim Lake.

• Take advantage of terrific rainbow trout fishing at Nimpo Lake, backdropped by the towering Mt. Kappan.

• Take a private or chartered flight from Anahim Lake Airport and stay at a local lodge or resort; many cater to both guided and self-guided fishers, hunters and hikers as well as those who prefer organized pack trips and mountain heli-tours.

• Take advantage of this pristine setting for unique day treks and multi-day guided horseback riding, hiking, photography and wildlife viewing excursions. • Hike or bike the many trails in this idyllic setting. • Stay in a local lodge and utilize a wilderness guide to make the most of your experience.

• If you’re a day hiker, you’ll get a good workout on one of the numerous trails and have many opportunities to spy the diverse species of birds and wildlife along the way. • Stay at a nearby ranch that offers up horseback riding and hiking tours, pack trips, fly-in fishing, plus yoga and organic meals featuring locally sourced produce, fish, fowl and game. • Come for the winter fun, including snowshoeing, skating, cross-country skiing, bonfires and a range of snowmobiling adventures.

• From your lodge, charter a float plane for a myriad of nearby wilderness adventures. Guided horseback and hiking treks are also easily arranged for exploring the surrounding Itcha and Ilgachuz mountains. • In winter, come to play at the Tweedsmuir Ski Club’s winter playground, with its groomed Nordic trails, a small ski hill and backcountry snowmobile access. • Add the Anahim Lake Stampede, staged every July since 1938, to your own circuit. Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Tweedsmuir Glacier Destination BC/Taylor Burk

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Great BeaR Rainforest Whether you are an ecologist or an anthropologist, an artist or a world traveller, the wild, rugged beauty of Great Bear Rainforest on BC’s central coast represents that rare travel opportunity: the chance to experience one of the few places on earth where pristine ecosystems, exceptional wilderness opportunities and authentic, arts-rich Indigenous cultures still exist. In 1793, an intrepid 29-year-old Scotsman named Alexander Mackenzie, accompanied by seven French Canadian voyageurs and two Indigenous porters, paddled into Dean Channel near present-day Bella Coola. The expedition’s arrival marked the first complete crossing of North America from east to the Pacific. Before returning to the East, Mackenzie scrawled this inscription on a rock, using a reddish mixture of bear grease and vermilion: “Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, 22nd July, 1793.” Mackenzie could not have found a more spectacular spot to end his epic journey. The mist-draped coastline of the Dean Channel is lined with towering snow-crowned peaks, massive icefields and some of the world’s longest fjords. It remains a remote and precious place, where old-growth cedar and spruce carpet the landscape and salmon-filled streams weave through valley basins. The local Indigenous people's way of life has changed significantly since Mackenzie’s historic landing on the Coast, but the same wonders still draw travellers today.

Cariboo Mountains Michael Bednar

The landscape north of Bella Coola, including the Great Bear Rainforest, the world’s largest contiguous tract of unspoiled temperate rainforest, is among the most isolated in BC. This 64,000 sq km (25,000 sq mi) wilderness expanse features some of the largest and oldest trees on earth, several ancient Indigenous cultural sites and thousands of species of plants, birds and animals, many of them rare. Offshore, the ocean teems with Orcas, porpoises, humpback whales, seals, sea lions and dozens of seabird species, while the preserve’s Kermode bear in the Great Bear Rainforest Destination BC/Yuri Choufour Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

forests are filled with black-tailed deer, “marine” wolves and three species of bears: grizzly, black and Kermode. The Kermode, a rare, white-coated variation of the black bear, also known as the Spirit bear, is sacred to BC’s Indigenous peoples. The Kermode’s main haunt, Princess Royal Island, is a primordial expanse of lush wilderness accessible only by boat or air that few humans have visited, aside from the Tsimshian (sim-she-an), who inhabited a coastal village here. Today, eco-sensitive interpretative tours led by bear experts and other naturalists offer passage for kayakers and boaters hoping to catch a rare glimpse of this animal. Operators offer a variety of services from scientific missions to relaxing sailboat cruises through the protected channels.

of maze-like islands, sinuous passageways and cascading waterfalls. Visitors dip into unforgettable sea kayaking and wildlife in the myriad of inlets, tiny coves and narrow passageways around Bella Coola. To the south, just 10 km (6 mi) west of Namu, the Hakai Luxvbalis (looks-bal-ease) Conservation Area also offers some of the finest kayaking on the coast. Fishing enthusiasts journey southwest of Hakai Luxvbalis to luxury lodges and some of the largest chinook salmon in the world, along Rivers Inlet and Knight Inlet, two of BC’s most renowned sport fishing destinations. From Rivers Inlet to Princess Royal Island, more places associated with iconic fishing include Hakai Pass, Milbanke Sound and Shearwater.

The Great Bear’s Fiordland Conservancy, a provincial marine park set deep in the inner channels near Klemtu/ Kitasoo, is equally remote. Dotted with pristine beaches, including exceptionally picturesque stretches near Lady Douglas Island, the conservancy encompasses glacially gouged fjords and Higgins Passage. The passage is an intricate waterway with Indigenous sites amidst a multitude

For centuries prior to the arrival of Europeans in the mid1700s, Indigenous people thrived along the central coast, living off land and ocean and trading with the peoples in the province’s interior. Today, approximately two-thirds of the Central Coast’s residents are Indigenous. In Bella Coola, the Nuxalk (nu-hawk) are well known for their carvings, masks and paintings.

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Johnstone Strait Northern Vancouver Island Tourism/Steven Fines

Exploring the Great Bear Rainforest today is much easier than when Mackenzie was paddled into the Dean Channel. BC Ferries transports passengers and vehicles from Port Hardy on northern Vancouver Island to the Central Coast each summer. Travellers can then continue inland from Bella Coola via Highway 20, up “The Hill” and across the Chilcotin Plateau to the Cariboo and beyond. Stuie Located in the Bella Coola Valley at the confluence of the Atnarko and Talchako Rivers where the Bella Coola River begins. This small community, with its laid-back vibes, offers travellers a chance to get back to nature and explore and offers a choice of accommodations at the end of the day. It’s deep in bear-viewing territory, where visitors come from around the world to see bears in their natural habitat as they forage for berries and fish in local streams and rivers. • Use the community as a starting point to hike the

Tweedsmuir Trail Route, which starts 14 km (9 mi) east along Highway 20. This 30-km (19-mi) hiking trail takes travellers deep into Tweedsmuir Provincial Park-South – a true backcountry where hikers should be prepared with the right equipment for extreme conditions and potential weather changes. • Embark from Stuie on authentic wilderness experiences to discover the abundant wildlife of the valley. • Use Stuie as a basecamp during a heli-skiing getaway in the winter months and explore over 1.3 million ha (3.25 million ac) of terrain. Firvale Located in the Bella Coola Valley between Stuie and Hagensborg, Firvale is a great stop on Highway 20 for travellers making their way to Bella Coola and the Great Bear Rainforest. The small community is home to wilderness camps, cottages and glamping domes Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Clayton Falls Tyler Cave

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

for travellers coming to see glaciers and waterfalls or embarking on bear-watching tours. • Hike or mountain bike trails throughout the area. • Take a floatplane tour, or stay grounded with an off-road adventure and take in stunning views of lakes, rivers and mountains. Hagensborg In 1894, some 100 Norwegian colonists journeyed from Minnesota to the Bella Coola Valley to found a settlement called Hagensborg, located on Highway 20, just 16 km (10 mi) east of Bella Coola. With its long fjords winding to the sea, the striking landscape around the new community reminded the settlers of their Norwegian homeland. Before long, the region’s first non-Indigenous farming, lumber and fishing industries were started, followed by the town’s first school, which opened in a large communal tent in 1895. Bella Coola Airport, just outside Hagensborg, provides scheduled flights daily to and from Vancouver as well as charters to glaciers, fishing areas and coastal destinations. • Catch a glimpse of Hagensborg’s life in the 1800s by touring the town’s Norwegian Heritage House. Built at the turn of the 20th century by Andrew Svisdahl, the site is a late 1800s time capsule furnished in traditional Norwegian fashion and displaying the household tools of more than a century ago. • Explore Augsburg United Church, built in 1904 as a Norwegian Evangelical Lutheran Church (still in use by local parishioners). Its adjacent cemetery poignantly honours those who journeyed from so far away to realize their dreams of a new life. • Hike the local trails offering a sense of the valley’s profound impact on its early settlers, including excellent vistas of the valley and Nusatsum Mountain from tiny Lost Lake’s picnic site, accessed by following the Lost Lake Trail on the north side of the Bella Coola River. • Take the well-marked, wheelchair accessible Saloompt Interpretive Trail’s scenic pathway alongside the Bella Coola River to an old-growth forest.

Bella Coola Tyler Cave

waterfront boasts an eclectic collection of fishing and pleasure boats, an old cannery site, a tidal estuary and the BC Ferries dock. The Bella Coola harbour serves as the grand entrance to the world-renowned 64,000 sq km (24,710 sq mi) Great Bear Rainforest and is the only port between Vancouver and Prince Rupert providing road access to the BC Interior. A few minutes east along Highway 20 is the Nuxalk (nuhawk) community of 4 Mile. Styled after the traditional longhouse and with stately totem poles erected in front, the 4 Mile School is close to the highway. Its design is an innovative three-dimensional work of art. • Browse the Nuxalk community’s art gallery and gift shop. • Take a guided tour of the expansive petroglyph site (only accessed with a guide).

KYNOCH ADVENTURES

Kynoch is the longest established Eco-Rafting & Bear viewing tour operator in Bella Coola Valley. Our guides are biologists and accredited Bear Viewing Guides. Join us Eco-Rafting, Bear Viewing, or on other Wilderness Adventures.

Bella Coola Rich in clean air, glacier-fed rivers, fresh mountain streams and magnificent wildlife, Bella Coola – the name of both the small town and the valley – is a favourite destination for naturalists, artists, explorers and photographers. The town

1896 Hwy 20 Bella Coola Valley 1+ 250-398-0390 www.kynochadventuretours.com info@kynochadventuretours.com

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Location Firvale, Bella Coola Valley Photographer Jen Thorpe

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

• Make a point of stopping in at the historic Kopas Store, with its delightful folksy ambience and wide selection of books, Indigenous jewellery and art, fishing licenses, marine charts and maps, plus other goods and giftware. • Don’t miss Clayton Falls, just 2 km (1 mi) west of the wharf on a short walking trail. It has striking hard granite formations worn by the water and glacier. It is also a gathering place for salmon in a major spawning year. Munch your lunch at a small park on the fjord with picnic benches. • Enjoy nature along Snootli Creek Park’s meandering nature trails, adjacent to Walker Island Park. It features an ancient cedar grove with an almost impermeable forest canopy of massive, interlocking cedar branches. Walkers on these easy trails stay relatively dry even when it rains. Namu Looking for a ghost town? Although there aren’t many ghost towns to be found in the region, there is a sense that past cultures and industries permeate the land here. At the confluence of Burke Channel and Fitz Hugh Sound, 95 km (59 mi) southwest of Bella Coola, the village of Namu, a Heiltsuk (hel-sic) First Nation word meaning “whirlwind,” stands as a stark reminder of past successes and misplaced optimism. Between the 1930s and 1980s, when BC Packers operated a cannery here, Namu was a major hub for commercial fishing along the central coast and boasted a population of up to 400 cannery workers, fish processors, maintenance personnel and their families. However, high transportation costs and low fish prices in the 1980s forced a shift from canning to fish processing, and Namu fish were soon being shipped south to Vancouver and west to Japan. In the 1990s, BC Packers sold the cannery.

the mouth of the Pacific Ocean. Named by George Vancouver when the area was first charted in 1792, the inlet today boasts renowned fishing resorts, catering to sport fishing enthusiasts from around the globe. Eco-lodges welcome bear viewing fans and avid photographers. • Try your hand at sportfishing in some of Canada’s top fishing waters. • Immerse yourself in a culturally authentic wilderness experience deep in the Great Bear Rainforest through H’aiagal’ath Grizzly Bear Tours Inc., an Indigenous-run tour operator, and view grizzlies, stunning waterfalls and towering mountains from a new perspective. Dawson's Landing Dawson’s Landing is located 104 km (65 mi) north of Port Hardy, across the Queen Charlotte Strait. Remote and beautiful, the town is located in a quiet bay up Rivers Inlet around the northern tip of Walbran Island. Regularly scheduled float plane service connects it with Port Hardy. Dawson’s Landing is the only location between Port Hardy and Bella Bella where travellers will find fuel, a general store, post office, liquor store and rental cabin accommodations.

Because of its ancient shell midden, a mound containing shells, animal bones and other remnants indicating past human settlement, Namu is a continuing source of curiosity for archaeologists. Evidence has been found here of cultures dating back nearly 10,000 years. In fact, Namu is considered one of the earliest radiocarbon-dated sites on the central BC coast. • Explore the largely crumbling ghost town on your own. Rivers Inlet Rivers Inlet is a scenic fjord 125 km (78 mi) southwest of Bella Coola and 65 km (40 mi) north of Vancouver Island. The inlet runs 45 km (28 mi) in length, from the community of Rivers Inlet, a logging and fishing settlement and home of the Wuikinuxv (whee-kin-au) First Nation, to Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

• Come to challenge yourself on a deep-sea fishing guided trip in some of the most prolific saltwater fishing grounds in BC. Hakai Pass South of Bella Bella, the exceptionally scenic waterways of Hakai Pass are known for their diversity of terrestrial and marine ecosystems. Here, anglers find some of the biggest catches on the coast, including huge runs of chinook, coho, sockeye, chum and pink salmon. Equally noteworthy is the Hakai Institute’s world-class ecological research and education centre, known for its field programs, satellite facilities, initiatives dedicated to increasing scientist's understanding of the region, the long-term measurement of environmental change and the testing of theories to explain the Hakai’s extraordinarily productive ecosystems. • Go deep-sea fishing for salmon, halibut, snapper and lingcod. • Take a photography tour to capture shots of Orcas, humpbacks, grey whales, dolphins and eagles migrating through the pass alongside sea lions and seals. Onshore, see deer and BC’s genetically unique “marine” wolves. • Take in a guided wildlife viewing tour from your resort or floating lodge; many offer tours in addition to fishing packages, ranging from rustic to luxurious. 54

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Bella Bella The large eagle’s head painted on its Native Cultural Centre marks the fishing community of Bella Bella, located on Campbell Island about 3 km (2 mi) north of the McLoughlin Bay BC Ferries terminal. Also known as Waglisla, the town is the former site of the Hudson Bay Company’s Fort McLoughlin, (established here in 1833), and the ancestral home of the Heiltsuk (hel-sic) First Nation. With a population of 1,400, Bella Bella is also the largest Indigenous community on BC’s west coast. Services include a bank, general store, police station, the Thistalalh Memorial Library and the Island’s only hospital and pharmacy. In the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, the Bella Bella airport is the primary arrival point for destination visitors, with regularly scheduled service from Port Hardy and Vancouver. • Rent a boat or kayak from nearby Denny Island to explore the many straits, exposed coastline and islands around Bella Bella. • Arrange a trip to the Eucott Bay Hot Springs, one of the largest and best-known on the coast. Located near Ocean Falls in Dean Channel. • Paddle into the many small straits, along the exposed coastline and around the islands accessible from the

Tweedsmuir Provincial Park Michael Bednar

communities of Bella Bella and Denny Island, such as the Goose Group in the western reaches of the Hakai Provincial Recreation Area. • Dive the waters of the Hakai Provincial Recreation Area which ranks among the finest in the world for yearround underwater exploration. Three good wrecks worth exploring are just off Atli Point, near Shearwater Resort on Denny Island, and Namu. Denny Island Wonderfully remote in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, Denny Island is located approximately 185 nautical km (100 nautical mi) north of Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and 140 nautical km (76 nautical mi) west of Bella Coola. It is a mere 5 km (3 mi) from Bella Bella, which is located on neighbouring Campbell Island. Originally built for an anti-submarine bomber reconnaissance unit in 1941, the town site was purchased and developed into a full-service marina and fishing resort when that unit disbanded in 1944. All that remains of the original air force base today is the hangar, airstrip and a few bunkers. This vibrant community of Denny Island is now home to about 70 year-round residents and is serviced by a grocery store, liquor store, art gallery/gift shop, marina, bed and breakfasts, a resort and a hotel, along with a post office and

marina. Water-taxi service to Bella Bella is also available. • Join an immersive eco-adventure tour and gain a deeper understanding of the land and waters through stories of the Heiltsuk peoples’ long history and interconnected relationship with the land. • Fish in the calm, protected waters around Shearwater Resort for one of five species of salmon or bottom feeders such as lingcod, red snapper, rockfish and halibut. • Go wildlife viewing to see coastal wolves, eagles, grizzly black bears and other rainforest wildlife. • Paddle a kayak, go diving or cruising. Boat rentals, fish charters and sightseeing tours are all available from Denny Island. Klemtu/Kitasoo Klemtu/Kitasoo is an isolated community located in a pristine cove on Swindle Island, 228 km (142 mi) northwest of Bella Coola within the Great Bear Rainforest preserve. The village is also on the doorstep of Princess Royal Island, home to the Kermode bear. Klemtu/Kitasoo’s population of 420 is composed of two First Nation groups, each with their own languages: the Kitasoo (kit-ah-soo), the southernmost tribe of the Tsimshian (sim-SHE-an) First Nation, and the Xai’xais (hay-hace), the northerly Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Nemiah Valley Jesaja Class

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

branch of the Heiltsuk (hel-sic) First Nation. By 1875, the population of the two groups had declined so precipitously that they joined together to establish a settlement nearer to the region’s main shipping routes. The new community underwrote its fledgling economy with earnings from cutting cordwood for coastal steamers, for which Klemtu/ Kitasoo became a refuelling stop. Klemtu/Kitasoo’s key economic driver is now fishing, and most residents live along the waterfront and its wooden boardwalk, which was the longest in North America when it was built in the 1960s. Commercial activities here are centred around the public Transport Canada wharf, where services include a general store, cafe, post office, community health clinic and modern fuel facility. But the most important community hub is Klemtu/Kitasoo’s monumental Big House. Constructed of red cedar and emblazoned with the village’s clan emblems (raven, eagle, wolf and killer whale), the facility is used for celebrations, traditional dances and memorials that allow residents to reconnect with their past and keep ancient traditions alive. • Stay at the Spirit Bear Lodge, operated by an Indigenousowned touring company, and immerse yourself in West Coast Indigenous culture and wildlife viewing tours of Princess Royal Island and the Kitasoo Spirit Bear Conservancy. Here kayakers can visit with a hereditary chief as they ply the ocean waters and learn the coastal story of creation.

construction of the largest pulp and paper mills in the province. Ocean Falls brought in workers from Japan, China and India to meet the demand for local Sitka spruce in the manufacture of fighter planes during World War I and II. In turn, the mill supported a thriving town, with a population of close to 4,000, its own school system, an orchestra, a musical and dramatic society, a hospital, one of the province’s largest hotels and a swimming pool where several champions trained, before the closure of the mill in 1980. The town’s swimming club sent seven swimmers to the Olympic Games between 1948 and the 1960s, including resident Ralph Hutton, who won silver in the 400-metre freestyle at the 1968 Mexico City Games. The club also won the Canadian National Men’s Championship four years running between 1962 and 1965. • Explore the quaint downtown area, a popular stop for boaters and BC Ferries travellers. • Go hiking, wildlife viewing, or fishing. • Stay in one of two charming accommodations (early booking is highly recommended).

• Bring your own kayak to explore a labyrinth of inland fjords – recommended for experienced paddlers. Swindle Island is inaccessible by road; check the BC Ferries website for current schedules. Pacific Coastal Airlines and its partner, Wilderness Seaplanes, also offer convenient flights to Klemtu/Kitasoo from Vancouver, Port Hardy and Campbell River (via Bella Bella). Ocean Falls Ocean Falls is often cited for its abundance of rain, some 4,390 ml (172 in) annually. Perhaps not surprisingly then, this community is sometimes referred to as the “Land of the Rain People,” after the Heiltsuk, the Indigenous peoples who have inhabited the coastal region surrounding Ocean Falls for more than 9,000 years. Accessible only by private boat, BC Ferries or float plane, Ocean Falls is a remote community, one that is situated around the waterfall of the same name, churning over the cliffs from Link Lake directly into Cousins Inlet, 88 km (55 mi) northwest of Bella Coola. In 1912, this easy access to fresh water prompted the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Be Prepared & Safe in Winter. Here’s How: Choose Your Adventure & Route Travelling in the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast in winter can require more research and preparation. When choosing your adventure, consider a guided adventure or inclusive overnight stay, adjust your plans for winter driving, and be sure to leave a copy of your itinerary with a family member or friend. Be prepared for poor road conditions and/or road closures, give yourself ample driving time considering when you will be travelling in daylight, and make sure your route includes gas stations and amenities needed to ensure a safe travel. Pack & Prep Your Vehicle Make sure to pack a winter kit that includes proper equipment for your vehicle as well as warm winter clothing for yourself and family. Being prepared for all winter conditions from having winter tires on your vehicle to dressing in layers with water-resistant, insulated non-slip winter boots, will help you be prepared for your winter travels. Driving For the Conditions Winter roads

often require their own set of skills, as slippery sections, compact snow and decreased visibility are common conditions. Make sure to remove all snow, frost or ice from your vehicle and travel with clean headlights and taillights for the best visibility. Most importantly, have fun, and remember that winter road trips often take longer than those in the summer, but as long as you're not in a rush and are careful, the drive itself can be part of the journey! For more information and a checklist to stay safe in our region, visit landwithoutlimits.com/safetravel and Designated Winter Tire & Chain Routes - Gov. bc.ca.

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Cariboo Mountains Destination BC/Michael Bednar

Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

know bEfore you go Visitor Centres & Booths

BC Visitor Centres and Booths offer friendly, professionally trained staff with local knowledge of attractions, activities, events and current seasonal road travel to help you make informed travel plans. They can also assist with accommodation, transportation and sightseeing tour bookings. Please refer to the map in the centre of this guide for locations of BC Visitor Centres and info booths throughout the region.

International Visitors to Canada

Canadian law requires that all persons entering Canada carry both proof of citizenship and proof of identity. A valid US passport, passport card or NEXUS card satisfies these requirements for US citizens. Children under 16 need only present proof of US citizenship. Other international visitors to Canada must carry a valid passport and, if required, a visa. Visit the Citizenship and Immigration Canada website for a complete listing of countries whose citizens require visas to enter Canada. All other visitors should contact their Canadian consulate or embassy to learn which documents are required. To learn more about Canadian customs regulations, visit the Canada Border Services Agency website. Citizenship & Immigration Office: cic.gc.ca Canada Border Services Agency: cbsa.gc.ca

Ferry Travel

The region is accessed by multiple BC Ferries vessels. Depending on your destination, you may change vessels along the way. Reservations should be made well in advance for travel on the Inside Passage and Central Coast Connector routes to Great Bear Rainforest communities. Check with BC Ferries for current schedules and to book ahead. bcferries.com/schedules or bcferries.com/vacations 1-888-223-3779

Rail Travel

The Rocky Mountaineer’s Rainforest to Gold Rush route travels from Vancouver to Jasper, Alberta, through the historic Cariboo, with an overnight stop in Quesnel. Reservations are required. rockymountaineer.com 1-877-460-3200

Firearms in Canada

For information regarding the importation of firearms to Canada, contact the Canadian Firearms Centre at 1-800-731- 4000 from Canada, or from the US at 1-506-624-6626 from other locations. rcmp-grc.gc.ca/firearms

Watercraft Regulations

Everyone who operates a power-driven boat in Canada needs proof of competency — something that shows they understand the rules of the ‘road’ and how to safely operate a boat. The most common proof of competency is the Pleasure Craft Operator Card. For more information visit Transport Canada’s Office of Boating Safety online or call the safe boating line. tc.gc.ca/boatingsafety 1-800-267-6687

Recreational Vehicle Operation

Operators of recreational vehicles in BC are required to comply with provincial regulations. To ensure you are aware of current updates and requirements in your area, review websites regularly. Visit gov.bc.ca and search for off-road vehicle management. The following websites may provide helpful information for planning your visit to the region.

BC Driving Conditions drivebc.ca or 1-800-550-4997

Air Travel

Pacific Coastal Airlines services Williams Lake, Anahim Lake, Bella Coola and Bella Bella. pacificcoastal.com 1-800-663-2872 Central Mountain Air services Quesnel and Williams Lake. flycma.com 1-888-865-8585 Wilderness Seaplanes offer both charter and scheduled service to a number of destinations along the central coast. wildernessseaplanes.com 1-800-343-5963

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BC Wildfire Travel Advisories

The BC Wildfire Service provides up-to-date information on wildfire conditions. bcwildfire.ca @BCGovFireInfo @BCForestFireInfo 1-888-336-7378 (information line)

Parks & Camping bcparks.ca sitesandtrailsbc.ca

Fishing, Hunting, Wildlife

Check current regulations and restrictions: gov.bc.ca//gov/content/sports-culture/recreation goabc.org

know before you go Emergency Contacts

Police, Fire, Ambulance, most of BC* 911 Bella Coola Police 1-250-799-5363 Bella Coola Ambulance 1-800-461-9911 Ambulance, from a satellite phone 1-250-374-5937 Ambulance, if 911 does not work* 0, ask for operator *911 does not work in some areas, such as Bella Coola and backcountry areas

Emergency information Emergency Info BC is the provincial source for information on ongoing emergency situations. emergencyinfobc.gov.bc.ca @emergencyinfobc

Evacuation Alerts and Orders

When a hazard poses a risk to the public, the government may issue evacuation notices. These come in two different levels: alerts and orders. For more information on evacuation notices, contact EmergencyInfoBC or the local government. Evacuation Alert: An evacuation alert is issued when there is a chance that a hazard may become a threat to the area. You do not have to leave an area under an evacuation alert and can travel in and out of these areas normally. However, you should be ready to leave if the alert is upgraded. Evacuation Order: An order is issued when there is an immediate threat to an area. When an order is issued, all people in the area must leave immediately. Please leave the area as soon as possible along the evacuation route.

Responsible Travel We all have a role to play in experiencing safe and responsible travel in the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast. Travelling responsibly includes your personal safety; respecting wildlife and the environment; and supporting local cultures and communities. For more information about how to travel responsibly and ensure your visit has a positive impact, see the travel tips provided throughout this guide.

Williams Lake Jonny Bierman Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

DIRECTORY Cariboo Spring Lake Ranch

Cheryl Chapman

Lead Consultant 250-267-8063 aboriginalts@gmail.com

Mike Retasket

Consultant 250-267-6551 mretasket58@gmail.com

Frontline Trainers • Reconciliation Facilitators Traditional Presentations & Performances Event & Cultural Protocols Coordinators

A beautiful and affordable guest ranch near 100 Mile House. Log cabins, scenic trail rides for beginners and the more experienced. 10,000 aces of range surrounding a private lake. Open year round. 15 km from HWY 97 at 111 Mile. 5770 Spring Lake Rd. 1-877-791-5776 or 250-791-5776 info@springlakeranchcom www.springlakeranch.ca info@springlakeranch.com www.springlakeranch.com Close to nature. Far from crowds.

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Discover the Cariboo on the shore of Lac La Hache Larry & Jerri New 3504 Hwy 97 Lac La Hache, BC P: 250.396.7109 F: 250.396.7129 info@crystalspringsresort.ca www.crystalspringsresort.ca

Spring Lake ranch Chilcotin

CHAUNIGAN LAKE LODGE

Relax in harmony with nature...

Cabin rentals, world class trout fishing, hiking, canoeing, wildlife viewing, eco tourism 1-888-879-8885 www.chauniganlodge.com

A beautiful and affordable guest ranch near 100 Mile House. Log cabins, scenic trail rides for beginners and the more experienced.

EST. 1940

Homey atmosphere and western hotel style, you’ll think you’ve stepped back in time. Burger Bar & Bakery

10,000 aces of range surrounding a private lake. Open year round.

Open March 1 - December 31 www.thehistoricchilcotinlodge.com chilcotinlodge@gmail.com 250-659-5646 │ Hwy 20, Riske Creek, BC

COAst

15 km from HWY 97 at 111 Mile. 5770 Spring Lake Rd. 1-877-791-5776 or 250-791-5776 info@springlakeranchcom www.springlakeranch.ca

Close to nature. Far from crowds. 1/4 page ad Chilanko Forks Jesaja Class

A Natural Getaway on the Bella Coola River One, Two & Three Bedroom Cottages Kitchen Barbeque Grill Laundry Pet Friendly Wireless Internet

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1-877-982-2424

info@suntree.ca

Gold Bridge, South Chilcotin Nick Trehearne Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Travel Guide | landwithoutlimits.com

Discover British ColUmbia’s authentic frOntier An untamed land framed by rolling hills and coastal mountains boasting diverse landscapes, abundant nature and wildlife, rich history and people of generous heart.

LANDWITHOUTLIMITS.COM 64

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