W H EN V ID EO G R A P H ER B EREN H A LL IS N ’ T F IL M IN G C OV ER S H O OT S O R IN T H E O C E A N F IL M IN G S U RF ER S , H E’ S P U T T IN G T H E FO L LOW IN G M A N T R A IN TO P R AC T I C E A S A N AT H L E T E M A N AG ER :
“Good company, the perfect location and a good hair day!”
experimenting with innovative Californian cuisine, resulting in restaurants serving up farm-to-table organic produce.
PA RK LE T S All over the
c r e a t i v e i n p u t The writers, stylists and videographers behind our March issue discuss
French novels and faking it
city, car spaces are being transformed into small, mixed-use public areas for passers-by. You’ll find everything from small gardens to seating, bike storage and exhibitions.
C O FFEE Hipsters are leading the way when it comes to San Francisco’s burgeoning artisan coffee culture, with independent roasters being embraced. It’s easily the best coffee in the US.
A U T H O R R AY YA ELI A S, W H O S E M EM O IR C A N B E FO U N D O N P 116, L IS T S T H E B O O KS RES P O N S IB L E FO R H ER B I G L IF E L ES S O N S . big magic: creative living beyond fear by Elizabeth Gilbert
the little prince by Antoine de Saint‑Exupéry
“It’s not out yet, but I’m reading the manuscript and it’s blowing my mind. It’s inspiration for my current creative life.”
“This was the first book I fell in love with; my gran used to read it to me. The message: only with the heart can we see clearly.”
the catcher in the rye by JD Salinger
les fleurs du mal by Charles Baudelaire
“I could barely read English when I first pored over this. It was an eyeopener: there are so many jewels about rebellion, isolation and reflection.”
“I can open any page and it reflects where I am or what I need to learn. One of my favourite quotes is: ‘Nothing can be done except little by little.’”
AC T IN G B E AU T Y A N D L IF ES T Y L E ED I TO R S A R A M C LE A N, W H O W R OT E O U R G U ID E TO T H E H OT T ES T N E W-S E A S O N M A K EU P O N P 18 4 , IS N ’ T A F R A ID TO AC C O S T S T R A N G ER S FO R T IP S . “Ask a girl in the bathroom about her shoes and she might mumble, ‘I bought them online’. Ask about her lipstick and she’ll pull it out of her bag and squint at the faded label to give you the exact shade. Regardless of their age or background, women are extra giving with beauty advice. As a teen coming of age in a country town, I gathered my tips from chemist staff and the girls at the Myer counter. At 14 I splurged on a Natural Glow bronzer (Amcal’s finest) and a pot of Guerlain Meteorites in my quest for a faux glow. I’ve since honed my skills but I’m still a sucker for sun-kissed skin (à la Balmain on p192).” ELLE
20 Contributors
COMPILED BY: ELLE M c CLURE
S T Y L IS T R O M Y FRY D M A N WA S TA S K ED W I T H D RES S I N G AC T RES S P H O EB E TO N K I N IN C H A N EL FO R O U R C OV ER S H O OT (WHICH WE L I V E‑ G R A M M ED F R O M T H E S E T ). H ER M U S T- H AV ES FO R C A P T U RIN G A S P O N TA N EO U S M O M EN T O N I N S TAG R A M?
“The best negotiation tactic is to be upfront and honest when dealing with people. And (if it’s called for) don’t be afraid to resort to physical violence.”
CA RLI PH I LI P S W R OT E O U R S A N F R A N C IS C O T R AV EL G U ID E O N P 2 2 2 . S H E S H A RES T H E B ES T T H IN G S A B O U T T H E B AY C I T Y. FO O D Young chefs are
ROOM SERVICE Clockwise from right: a suite at The Warwick; the muted hues of Hotel G; Hotel Zetta by night
T RIBE VIBE
Cliques reign in SF – here’s how to sort your hipsters from your hikers
T HE HIPSHI T S
ELLE CIT Y GUIDE
spotlight on
SAN FRANCISCO
Mostly working in cafes and shops in east-central San Fran, these guys are against wi-fi and slap signs on their doors reminding customers that real-life conversation trumps virtual messenger. They’re anti-soy milk (good luck finding any in this city) and, like all good hipsters, love a tatt and a beard that’s only ever groomed at the cool-but-pretentious Fellow Barber. fellowbarber.com
T HE CHIC GEEKS The new-age nerds of San Francisco still team sneakers with jeans, but they’re limited-edition Nikes with Nudies. These young guns go arm-in-arm with their MacBooks by day and, if they’re not at the office of their wildly successful start-up, can most likely be found in the wee hours at a young entrepreneurs’ workshop or seminar.
RED ALERT The luxe Scarlet Huntington offers an indoor infinity pool and private dining room (right)
AWESOME FOURSOME
Our pick of the best hotel facelifts, refreshes and entirely new looks, from least to most pricey $ The Warwick San Francisco warwicksf.com We love this downtown boutique hotel, which recently underwent a buff and polish to reveal sophisticated Jonathan Adler-style guestrooms. The actual design is courtesy of Amsterdam-based firm UXUS, also the masterminds of Caliinspired restaurant Aveline and The European bar, where you´ll find an impressive selection of cocktails.
SF’s entrepreneurial spirit makes it the ultimate trend forecaster. And, like its steep hills, this city is on the up
W
e have a lot to thank San Francisco for: Levi’s, psychedelic rock, Steve Jobs, Full House (read: the Olsen twins), not to mention Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Uber. Between its baby-faced Silicon Valley entrepreneurs and some of the most influential families in the US, its hills are alive with billionaires. But then there’s the boutique coffee scene (no more suffering through a cup of Starbucks), buzzing cultural calendar, thriving list of organic/sustainable/ local food purveyors and tech start-ups that are shaping the future. The city’s Golden Gates have been polished and thrown wide open; step inside.
ELLE
222 TRAVEL
Master stylish holiday packing by scanning with the free viewa app. See page 34 for details
$$$ Hotel Zetta
hotelgsanfrancisco.com After a two-year reno, this boutique hotel has design aficionados fawning over its minimalist Scandi interiors – think walnut timber everything, bankers’ lamps and vintage schoolhouse chairs. It’s in a buzzing spot right near Union Square, but it can be tempting to just stay in – especially with the brand new Americanstyle Klyde Cafe & Wine Bar on the ground floor, where the crab roll with garlic butter is more than worth the calories.
viceroyhotelgroup.com/ en/zetta It’s been open for less than two years, but Hotel Zetta already draws a hefty postwork city crowd – happy days if you’re single. For those travelling with a plusone, there’s a dedicated Playroom kitted out with game consoles, a pool table and a ping-pong table to keep him occupied while you wander around taking photos of the super-cool interior touches such as chandeliers fashioned entirely from old spectacles.
$$$$ The Scarlet Huntington thescarlethotels.com/ huntington-hotel-san-francisco In the charming, exclusive neighbourhood of Nob Hill (aka Snob Hill) and fresh from an $18 million renovation, the historic Scarlet Huntington is orientalmod at its best. Each of the 134 sexy rooms and suites is OTT glam with black oak and teal snakeskin-like accents. But it’s the hotel spa that really takes the cake (anywhere that welcomes you with lavender-scented oshibori towels, we’re into).
THE HUNGER GAMES
Our insider’s guide to San Francisco’s best cuisines – and where to get them
T HE WELLNE SS WARRIORS You’ll find the fitness freaks jogging around Golden Gate Park, the hikers in the Presidio national park and the locals at the Lyon Street steps. The yogis are everywhere; if they’re not at one of the hundreds of studios around town (Yoga Tree is our fave) then they’ll be sipping a pressed juice or aloe-vera elixir at Juice Shop. yogatreesf.com; juiceshop.com
$$ Hotel G
ITALIAN… You’re on holidays, which means the no-carbs rule goes out the window. Pizzeria Delfina (far left) and Locanda are sister restaurants in the Mission district and offer some of the best Italian in the city. The desserts at Locanda (left) are not to be missed. pizzeriadelfina.com; locandasf.com
JAPANESE…
The Arizona outpost of Roka Akor has been named one of the top 10 sushi restaurants in the US, so you know you’re in for some good food at this Jackson Square hotspot. The informal downstairs bar is the place for killer cocktails and snacks. Green chilli aioli tuna maki roll? Say no more. rokaakor.com/san-francisco
ME XICAN…
Local, organic, vegan and non-GMO, the Mission’s Gracias Madre is no ordinary taqueria. Produce comes from owners Matthew and Terces Engelhart’s farm a couple of hours from the city, where Terces grinds corn and presses her own tortillas for the restaurant. gracias-madre.com
PURE CALIFORNIAN…
You’ll be Instagramming your heart out at the prepaid (ticketed) Coi, the city’s hottest two-star Michelin #localproduce restaurant. Pastry chef Nick Muncy has been tipped as one to watch by food critics, so our advice is to get the (seasonal) dessert. coirestaurant.com ]
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CITY HIT LIST Go to Trick Dog (far left) for drinks, Rag & Bone for denim (left) and General Store (right) for homewares
FRISCO FR ACAS In SF, it’s a battle to the bank between newly minted wealth and the bluebloods.
HILLTOP HOODS
GOLD RUSH
Renowned for its distinct districts, the city’s split personality boils down to three need-to-know destinations
Three years ago, Kevin Systrom, then 28, sold his Instagram app to Facebook for a cool $1.3 billion. ..... After growing up on food stamps as a teenager, 30-something WhatsApp co-founder Jan Koum sold to Facebook for $24 billion. ..... Michael and Xochi Birch sold their social media app Bebo to AOL for $1 billion. After it went bankrupt, they bought it back for $1.3 million. Like.
POP CULTURE CHECKLIST
Forgo the usual landmarks in favour of these trips down memory lane
Ditch the drip – this is one US city that can do coffee. Here’s where caffeine junkies can get their fix (with a side of something sweet)
MISSION
The heart of this up-and-coming district is Valencia Street, a gritty main road peppered with unique eateries and eclectic shops. It’s hard not to love Fine Arts Optical and its range of
Blue Bottle
vintage glasses, or the fascinating home decor and taxidermy emporium (trust us) of Paxton Gate. The good stuff starts at 14th Street and ends when you make it to Trick Dog (on 20th Street) for drinks. We love the No.11: vodka, chamomile liqueur, grapefruit and lime.
One of the businesses bringing artisan coffee to the US, this chain of cafes (above) is always packed, but is worth the wait for espresso or the cult New Orleans iced coffee. bluebottlecoffee.com
PACIFIC HEIGHTS The city’s chicest neighbourhood. Fillmore Street is the place to stock up on your American staples (head to Rag & Bone, Curve and James Perse), but Sacramento Street
Craftsman And Wolves
is worth visiting to see where the rich flash their cash on homewares. Then head to “Billionaires’ Row” on Broadway Street for a spot of property porn (number 2701 is on the market for $47.5 million).
Frolic with the ghosts of Uncle Joey, Uncle Jesse and the Tanners in Alamo Square park. The opening credits of ’80s sitcom Full House were shot here, and more importantly, it’s the birthplace of our love affair with Mary-Kate and Ashley.
OUTER SUNSET You know you’ve arrived when things get foggy. Fringed by cold mist from rough Ocean Beach (think wetsuits not bikinis), this beachside community is awash with surfers, many of whom can be found at the shanty (and excellent) Trouble Coffee & Coconut Club. Also on this pocket of Judah Street is General Store – a cool shop with fun homewares and fashion accessories. And make time for the much-loved Outerlands, which offers hearty, sustainable post-surf meals.
SILVER SPOONS The Haas family, of the Levi’s denim dynasty, are known for their philanthropy – particularly Robert Haas (left). ..... Sugar barons and toy tycoons the Rosekrans family collect art, real estate… and couture. ..... Shipping spawn (and daughters of romance novelist Danielle Steel) Vanessa and Victoria Traina (left) are as beautiful as they are rich – and have closets to die for. ..... Controversial oil heirs the Gettys have been tabloid fodder for years thanks to their infidelities, kidnappings and love children.
COFFEE AND CALORIE S
Alcatraz Island is not only the
Relive the ’90s with a visit to
2640 Steiner Street, where some of the exterior shots for Mrs Doubtfire were filmed. The home became a makeshift memorial after Robin Williams’ death last year.
place where the most notorious prisoners were held, but also the set of The Rock, the 1996 film starring Sean Connery, Nicolas Cage and Ed Harris.
Sure they serve up great coffee, but it’s this Mission hotspot’s pastries that keep people coming back – and Instagramming. craftsman-wolves.com
B Patisserie
“B Pat”, as the locals call it, is famous for its kouign amann (a sugary, caramelised pastry), but you can pair your latte with a side of anything here – it’s all delicious. bpatisserie.com
Four Barrel
This cafe, on Mission’s Valencia Street, has hipsters roasting on site. A skim milk- and wi-fi-free zone, these guys are the real deal (cupping seminar, anyone?).
Visit AT&T Park, where “Kimye” became official, and pay your respects to Yeezus for coordinating an engagement complete with a symphony, fireworks and 15-carat sparkler.
T HERE’S AN APP FOR T HAT CURBSIDE Order online and your bags will be waiting for store pick-up. Saves time and delivery fees.
JOHN PAUL GETTY II WITH WIFE TALITHA POL >
shopcurbside.com
fourbarrelcoffee.com
Uber isn’t the only San Fran creation making lives that little bit easier...
LAUNDRY LOCKER Place a bag of clothes in one of their lockers throughout San Francisco and they’ll dry-clean it and return it to you.
laundrylocker.com
POSTMATES Order from any restaurant and these middlemen will have it to you within an hour.
SPRIG Choose from a daily rotating menu of organic, locally sourced, ready-to-eat healthy meals, at your table in 20.
postmates.com
sprig.com
The city’s cultural calendar is jam-packed, so clear your schedule
MARCH
APRIL /MAY
MAY
JUNE-AUGUST
JULY
The Disposable Film Festival
Art Market San Francisco
Carnaval
Stern Grove Festival
5 Seconds Of Summer
A free event that showcases a relaxed line-up of performances in an outdoor amphitheatre surrounded by giant eucalyptus. BYO picnic.
Support the Aussie pop/punk/ rockers on their world tour.
Celebrate short films made on everyday technology such as smart phones, DSLR cameras and even webcams.
disposablefilm.com ELLE
224 Travel !
One of six across the US, this can be a case of look-but-don’ttouch but it’s still worth checking out.
artmarketsf.com
It’s girls, glitter and gays gone wild at this three-day extravaganza celebrating all things Caribbean.
carnavalsan francisco.org
sterngrove.org
stubhub.com/ 5-seconds-ofsummer-tickets
As if its sun and surf weren’t enough, Huntington Beach in California is set to open a brand new entertainment complex in mid-2015. The oceanfront Pacific City will be an open-air retail and restaurant mecca, with an upscale hotel to be added in 2016. surfcityusa.com
WORDS: CARLI PHILIPS. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAREN CARUSO; CORBIS IMAGES; GETT Y IMAGES; CLAY McLACHLAN; AUBRIE PICK; FACEBOOK.COM/LOCANDASF
DIARY DATE IT AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
YE AR-ROUND
Outside Lands
San Francisco Fringe Festival
San Francisco Fleet Week
Hip Hop Dancefest
49ers game
SoMa StrEat Food Park
Not only is it a real thang, but it’s awesome and brings international boyz to the yard.
We do AFL, they do NFL, but both boys sure can hustle. Perky cheerleaders ramp up the atmosphere.
Different food trucks seven days a week, plus music and special events like the Vegan Super Bowl Party. q
sfhiphopdancefest.com
49ers.com
Tens of thousands flock to Golden Gate Park for food, arts and music. The 2015 line-up is TBC but last year the likes of Kanye and the John Butler Trio headlined.
sfoutsidelands.com
Time to get indie. Jump aboard the strange train with grassroots acts.
There’s something about an annual air show. Or, men in uniform… well hello, sailor.
sffringe.org
fleetweeksf.org
somastreat foodpark.com ELLE.COM.AU @ ELLEAUS
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