VICTORIA | Melbourne
Melbourne
POPULATION About 4.25 million AVERAGE MAXIMUM TEMP/RAINFALL Summer: 25.3°C/51mm Winter: 14.2°C/49mm
Ranked as the world’s most livable city, Melbourne delivers in spades. Abuzz with creative energy, the foodie capital of Australia has a dynamic arts and events calendar, a cool bar scene and homegrown talents across the fashion, food and café industries. Believe the hype. FRIDAY 9am: Wake-up call
A cafe on Gertrude Street, Fitzroy
Morning only means one thing in Melbourne: coffee. Good news, because from The Olsen Hotel on Chapel Street, you’re right in the thick of caffeine territory. Head west down Toorak Road for an outstanding blend by award-winning coffee purists The Final Step, followed by a hearty breakfast at popular new side-street haunt, Two Birds One Stone — the latest addition to the South Yarra precinct.
10am: Chap laps
SMART APP Make sure nothing impedes your retail therapy with the free Park Smart App* for the iPhone®** which utilises push technology to help remind you of your parking, avoiding unnecessary parking tickets. The Park Smart App lets you quickly slide to start the meter timer reminder and with a single tap, add hints to remind you where you’ve parked your car. For more information on Toyota’s Park Smart App, visit toyota.com.au. *The Park Smart App (“the device”) is designed as an assisting device only. Not all mobile devices will be compatible and functionality will vary depending on the device. The device should not to be used while driving. The information contained in this device is for general information purposes only and is not a substitute for safe parking practices. **iPhone® is a trade mark of Apple Inc.
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Explore Chapel Street at your leisure — it’s considered Melbourne’s best south-side retail destination. This strip has something for everyone, so it’s best to divide and conquer. The Toorak Road end is the pricier end of the spectrum and dedicated fashion followers will love the offerings from homegrown design heroes Alice McCall, Shakuhachi, Life With Bird and Ksubi. About halfway down is the flagship Topshop, and thrown into the mix are on-trend yet more conservatively priced Aussie high-street retailers Cue, Witchery and Seed. If you’re short on time, get lost in Dakota 501 — one of Melbourne’s most reliable and diverse unisex denim destinations.
11.30am: Windsor wander The shops are tightly packed for a couple of kilometres, so when you tire of South Yarra, head to Windsor, the neighbourhood that until a few years ago only had the odd smattering of pawn stores and op-shop pioneers. They’re still around, but a host of new independent stores and bars have
brought an influx of gen Y-ers and made this quarter a haven for people watching. Chapel Street Bazaar is the go-to destination for prop stylists and an emporium of quirky, second-hand knick-knacks and hard-to-find objects, while the fabulous Shag offers a theatrical dose of pre-loved fashion and accessories from decades gone by.
12.30pm: The fashion capital When Chapel Street meets Dandenong Road, turn left and take the highway all the way to the recently revamped Chadstone Shopping Centre where more than 530 stores are housed under one roof. Serious shoppers will love one of Australia’s premier luxury precincts featuring international labels such as Jimmy Choo, Chanel and Tiffany & Co. Loosely divided by category, surf and skate shops rub shoulders with lifestyle stores, the kid-friendly Build-A-Bear Workshop and huge Toys R Us. Loosing stamina? Refuel at the Koko Black chocolate salon or the pop up macaron cart La Belle Miette for a sugar hit.
2.30pm: Late lunch Make a beeline back down Dandenong Road to chic High Street in Armadale. Take a lunch break at the much-loved Phillippa’s Bakery for old-school provisions: homemade A boutique on Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
STORY: CARLI PHILIPS. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES, MARK CHEW, JOHN KARMOUCHE (WWW.HARLEYRIDES.COM.AU)
48 hours shopping in
sausage rolls and buttery pastries. Nestled between antique dealers, premium boutiques, art galleries and dime-a-dozen nail bars, this is pure ladies-who-lunch territory, so if you’ve still got cash to splash, head to Scanlan & Theodore for sophisticated threads.
4pm: Local luxury More retail therapy beckons nearby in the plush pocket of Malvern Road between Williams and Orrong roads. Keep your eyes peeled on the short drive as the quaint houses en route are some of the suburb’s loveliest. Converted terraces house exclusive Australian boutiques such as the ethnicinspired Husk and super-stylish Grace. Both are worth visiting for a well-curated selection of imports across accessories, books, clothing and even in-store coffee. The area also boasts an impressive array of gourmet food stores and delis such as Gewürzhaus which has every spice known to mankind.
6pm: Drink up After safely stowing your vehicle at The Olsen car park, enjoy a well-deserved
by way of the moody Borsch, Vodka & Tears. Grab a vodka (their speciality) or ‘Lemon Meringue Pie’ cocktail and settle into the cosy, no-frills Polish bar.
8pm: A bit of this, a bit of that From authentic Mexican to lip-smacking Asian, there’s no shortage of options when it comes to dining out. Chow down at Miss Chu for fresh Vietnamese, Hanoi Hannah for affordable Thai snacks or either of Fonda’s two locations for unbeatable cheap and >>
CHAPEL STREET BAZAAR IS THE GO-TO DESTINATION FOR PROP STYLISTS.
Q&A with Alex Cleary, one half of fashion design duo Alpha60 Where do you live in Melbourne? Westgarth. Which are your favourite neighbourhoods? Fitzroy, Collingwood and Northcote. Collingwood has retained all its interesting grime. Awesome warehouse spaces have been transformed into studios and there is such a great mix of underground galleries, good restaurants and great bars. And your favourite Victorian drive? Down to the coast, either way. But if I had to choose, I’d pick
Kilcunda near Phillip Island. It’s so raw down there with its long, rough beaches, epic cliffs, rivers and sand dunes. What is the city’s top retail destination? Of course, Alpha60. Also try Wunderkammer for something weird and wonderful. And outside the city? The Mill Markets in Daylesford, which is about 115 kilometres out of Melbourne at the foothills of the Great Dividing Range. I challenge you not to find something awesome there.
siesta, because as night falls, apéritifs call
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VICTORIA | Melbourne
LITTLE BLACK BOOK
DID YOU KNOW?
Melburnians have access to more than 480 hectares of parks and gardens, which is more than any other major city in the world.
Alphaville
Cookie restaurant
Flinders Street Station
Gertrude Street, Fitzroy
Degraves Street, Melbourne
cheerful Mexican street fare. The portions are smaller which caters to sharing. Alternatively, culinary hero Chris Lucas brings his blend of artisan cool to the hot Baby.
SATURDAY 8.30am: Up and at ’em First up, follow the winding road around picturesque Alexandra Avenue and fuel up at Kanteen. The old toilet block has been converted into an inviting cafe where there’s a kid-friendly menu and views out to the rowers on the river. Drive past Melbourne’s verdant Royal Botanic Gardens with the windows down — this beautiful site is a top destination for local fitness freaks come rain, hail or shine. It’s time to cross the Yarra River from Melbourne’s coddled south to its more industrial north, so turn right into the treelined St Kilda Road — Melbourne’s famous boulevard and gateway to attractions such as the National Gallery of Victoria, Arts Centre Melbourne and Shrine of Remembrance. When you reach the Flinders Street Station, park at one of the city’s extensive car parks.
10am: Retail labyrinth A rabbit warren of quaint laneways, artist studios and heritage arcades, Melbourne’s city grid is choc full of unassuming treasures. The main roads feature all the usual chain-store suspects, but it’s down the heavily graffitied skinny streets — Hosier Lane in particular — that the fun really starts. Make your way to the city’s creative south-eastern fringe, stopping in at Craft Victoria for limitededition objects by fresh, new talent. Continue down Flinders Lane where edgy monochrome fashion boutique Alphaville is tucked between a heap of subterranean bars and eateries. The
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narrow alleys off Flinders Street between Swanston and Elizabeth streets are some of the city’s best. Join the students and suits for a morning-tea pit stop at one of the cosy alfresco cafes on the atmospheric Degraves Street or Centre Place. Don’t miss the charming Block Arcade and 19th-century Royal Arcade with its small specialty stores. Treasures await behind the unsigned façades of Melbourne’s heritage buildings. Browse quirky Alice Euphemia and eclectic Lenko at the base of the Beaux-Arts Nicholas Building, before riding with one of the country’s last lift operators up to the amazing Retrostar Vintage on level one for pre-loved band T-shirts. Step back in time with the dizzying array of private artist studios and designers including bespoke tailors, jewellers, milliners and writers occupying every level of this creative hub. Look out for open days when there’s public access.
12pm: The only way is up Break for lunch at Cookie, the cult Thaiinspired eatery and beer house on level one of historic Curtin House. Entry is via
a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it doorway, but the multi-layered building actually houses hip retail space and art gallery Someday, the Metropolis Bookshop, a Kung Fu academy, bar and music venue The Toff, and the open-air Rooftop Cinema in summer. This is vertical retailing at its Melbourne best.
1pm: Shop till you drop
Nicholas Building
SHOPPING TREASURES AWAIT BEHIND THE UNSIGNED FACADES OF MELBOURNE’S HERITAGE BUILDINGS.
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Surrounded by accessible urban streetwear megastores such as Zara, Adidas and Roger David, Australia’s biggest department stores, David Jones and Myer, anchor the pedestrian-only Bourke Street Mall. Myer’s impressive redevelopment includes a VIP shopping suite, The Salon champagne bar, Galerie de Parfum, revered Brunetti cafe and an award-winning atrium-lit cosmetics hall that rivals any international department store from New York to Paris. A haven for gadget lovers, two levels are devoted entirely to technology.
2pm: Market mayhem Head north of the city to the buzzy Queen Victoria Market. Spread over two blocks, vendors sell everything from clothing to seasonal produce, souvenirs and manchester. It’s a landmark with live entertainment during extended summer hours. Check the website for special events, and insider-guided shopping and foodie tours.
3pm: Hipster territory Make your way down Victoria Parade, past the Melbourne Museum and World Heritagelisted Carlton Gardens to the gritty suburb of Fitzroy where hipsters reign supreme. Expect barbershops, vintage eyewear stores, specialised bookshops and indie galleries
housed in converted warehouses lining Smith, Gertrude and Johnston streets. This is the destination for everything preloved. Vinyl-enthusiasts rejoice as Northside Records, Polyester Records, Title and Clubhouse Records are all close by. Melbourne-made Nobody Denim is a must for jeans-lovers and neighbouring Karton offers 100 per cent recyclable cardboard furniture. Dining options are infinite, but stop for an espresso at the Italian landmark Marios (forget soy milk) or rustic Eastern European bakery Babka for some of the best bread and sweet treats this side of the Yarra. If you’re after something healthy, you’re in the right place. Head directly to Vegie Bar for raw and organic deliciousness.
5pm: Bargain hunters The junction between Fitzroy and Collingwood, Smith Street is famous for its sportswear factory outlets such as Converse, Adidas, Champion and Russell Athletic. Take a slight detour via Yarra Boulevard to Richmond for a spot of shopping on Bridge Road where bargain hunters will delight in some of Australia’s best-known brands at unbeatable prices. Sass & Bide, Gorman, Sportsgirl and adventure travel store Kathmandu all have sale stores here, where just-out-of-season stock is slashed.
6pm: Cheers No doubt you’ve worked up an appetite after that spree, so make like all Melburnians do and follow your nose to one of the revamped gastropubs on Church Street. Kick back at the Royal Saxon, Union Dining or Public House for a well-deserved beer with your bounty. Cheers. To shopping. GP
Alice Euphemia Shop 6, Cathedral Arcade, 37 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9650 4300. Alice McCall 549 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9826 8807. Alphaville 201 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; 03 9663 3002. Babka 358 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; 03 9416 0091. Baby 631–633 Church St, Richmond; 03 9421 4599. Block Arcade 282 Collins St, Melbourne; 03 9654 5244. Borsch, Vodka & Tears 173 Chapel St, Windsor; 03 9530 2694. Chadstone Shopping Centre 1341 Dandenong Rd, Chadstone; 03 9563 3355. Chapel Street Bazaar 217 Chapel St, Prahran; 03 9529 1727. Clubhouse Records Shop 6, 164 Gore St, Fitzroy; 0420 599 054. Cookie Level 1, 252 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9663 7660. Craft Victoria 31 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; 03 9650 7775. Cue Shop 1, 500 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9827 7750. Dakota 501 501 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9826 9596. Fonda 144 Chapel St, Windsor (03 9521 2660); 248 Swan St, Richmond (03 9429 0085). Gewßrzhaus 543 Malvern Rd, Toorak; 03 9023 7076. Grace 595 Malvern Rd, Toorak; 03 9827 2133. Hanoi Hannah 180 High St, Prahran; 03 9939 5181. Husk 557 Malvern Rd, Toorak; 0487 703 385. Kanteen 150 Alexandra Ave, South Yarra; 03 9827 0488. Karton 412 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; 1300 527 866. Ksubi 559 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9827 5707. Lenko 5/37 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9077 2177. Life With Bird 563 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9029 6934. Marios 303 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; 03 9417 3343. Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton; 1300 130 152. Metropolis Bookshop Level 3, Curtin House,
252 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9663 2015. Miss Chu 276 Toorak Rd, South Yarra; 03 9041 5848. Nobody Denim 396–398 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; 03 9486 9477. Northside Records 236 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; 03 9417 7557. Phillippa’s Bakery 1030 High St, Armadale; 03 9576 2020. Polyester Records 387 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; 03 9419 5137. Public House 433–435 Church St, Richmond; 03 9421 0187. Queen Victoria Market Elizabeth St, Melbourne; 03 9320 5822. Retrostar Vintage: Level 1, Nicholas Building, 37 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9663 1223. Rooftop Cinema Level 6, 252 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9654 5394. Royal Arcade 335 Bourke Street Mall, Melbourne; 03 9670 7777. Scanlan & Theodore 1061 High St, Armadale; 03 9824 6444. Seed 542–545 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9824 2550. Shag 130 Chapel St, Windsor; 03 9510 8817. Shakuhachi 551 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9826 6177. Someday 3/252 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9654 6458. The Final Step 1c Murphy St, South Yarra; 0414 503 248. The Olsen Hotel 637–641 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9040 1222. The Royal Saxon 545 Church St, Richmond; 03 9429 5277. The Toff Level 2, Curtin House, 252 Swanston St, Melbourne; 03 9639 8770. Title 183 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; 03 9417 4477. Topshop 500 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 8844 0900. Two Birds One Stone 12 Claremont St, South Yarra; 03 9827 1228. Union Dining 270–272 Swan St, Richmond; 03 9428 2988. Vegie Bar 380 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; 03 9417 6935. Witchery 535 Chapel St, South Yarra; 03 9824 1470.
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