Basic Garment Analysis

Basic Garment analysis

by Elisabeth-Charlotte Bohn

by Elisabeth-Charlotte Bohn 1

All around view

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Content Introduction 4 Technical basics 5-7 Fabrics 8-11 Resea=rch question 12-13 Conclusion 14 Sources 15

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Introduction This booklet contains the analysis of the car coat, which is divided into two parts: First of all, technical details and used fabrics are going to be explained in depth. To be more precise, historical facts and technical information identify the purpose of each of the coats elements.

The second part is about answering the research question of ‘The car coat: Fade or famous?’

The car coat had its peak already decades ago, when it was mainly used for car driving purpose in the 60s. Therefore, I started to wonder about the car coat’s fame nowadays: Can the car coat still be considered a popular or an old-fashioned piece of clothing?

My research question hints mostly to contemporary issues which are going to be discussed in depth, such as the role of the car coat on the cat walk and in movies. In addition, a closer look has been taken on the changes within the car industry in terms of car design and specialised car fashion.

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Overview Coat type, Car coat/Outerwear Weight: 2,6 kg Size: 46 Era: 60s-/70s Brand: London Fog, Baltimore

Caramel

Chocolate

“The natural look was in.” (Ed Jim Heimann, 60s Fashion)

Beige

Olive

The colour choice of the coat is connected to the era’s spirit: Sample images of 60s art, design and advertisement show a neutral colour trend and a favour for brown tones. Moreover, the civil rights movement lead to an influence of the African culture, its fashion and colour.

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Horn buttons

Coat type

Functioning? The buttons help to fasten the

Characteristics? Its shortened lengths

coat.

Origin? Those buttons origin from animals

such as cow, buffalo or goat. Therefore, merchants are mostly based in Asian countries such as India or China who offer horn plates in various sizes and colours.

above the knees made the car coat a convenient choize for car driving purpose.

Also, still long enough to cover up the bottom, it kept the body warm and save.

Other features are its A-line fall and the squared box shape with a flattened front.

Quality? Those buttons can be of poor quality, due to negligence of animals.

Price? The price is costly with up to twice as much as a regular button.

Positioning? The four horn buttons help to

identify this coat as a men’s one, due to its positioning on the right-hand side.

In the past, with the left part on top of the right part, this buttoning allowed men easiest access to weapons in order to retrieve them as quick as possible.

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A-line shape Practical purpose? Its shape creates room around the hips which allows to move freely.

Influences? With the “hemlines as the barometer

of progress” ( Ed.Jim Heimann, 60s fashion) and the introduction of the “micro-mini” in 1969 there was a privilege for shortened designs.

Pockets

Why? The large-scalled pockets allow enough space for the car keys.

New wool What does it mean? The trade-

mark provides practical Information which identifies the coat as an high-delicate garment. Additionally, the woolmark + R sign resembles the high quality of pure (100%) new wool. Its also a long-lasting piece of clothing with a solid colour fastness.

As a result, the washmachine washing isn’t allowed, because it might damage the material and lead to shrinking.

The chain

Function? The chain functions as a coat hanger, but has a decorative purpose as well.

Opening

Purpose? The v-opening guarantees

legroom which makes it comfortable to wear. Also, the open space makes the car driving more safe.

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The lining, Satin weave Temperature,

the Satin helps to regulate to the temperature, whilst a fur filling would be to warm.

Price, Satin lining is a cost saving alterna-

tive to fur.

Convenience,

for practical reasons the satin lining makes it more convenient to take the jacket on and off. Also, it has a pleasant feel on the skin.

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The lining, Faux fur Temperature,

labelled as an outerwear design this coat is made for coldly seasons. Especially during winter month the faux fur functions as an protection against freezy temperatures and keeps the body temperature up-to-date.

Costs, the faked version is a cost-saving alternative to real animal fur.

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The Houndstooth What? A houndstooth pattern can be identified by its

shepherd checks with jagged edges. Moreover, contrasting colours form a two-toned textile pattern.

Where? Nowadays the houndstooth covers a wide range

of products where it can be found, starting with clothing up to home decoration and animal care.

How? The pattern is either been made by a specific knit-

ting technique or with the help of a stitching pattern. Best yarn choizes for the making-of process is mercerized cotton such as Thaki yarn. It has the advantage of durability, colour saturation and a shiny surface as well.

When? Houndstooth has a Scottish origin, where it was

Balanced twill houndstooth

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used into woolen men clothes end of the 19th century. It was the former prince of Wales Edward VIII. who made the pattern popular in the 1930s. Chanel integrated the houndstooth pattern among the high society in the 80s. Nowadays its considerd to be a classical pattern that is worn independent of class or age.

Pattern peaks The houndstooth pattern was featured by many other designers during its era of the 60s. Additionally, a revolutionary graphic design scene and an general interest for art and culture sparked a preference for graphical elements. Latest, the houndstooth pattern celebrates a huge comeback and is for example worn by celebrities.

Geoffrey Beene, ad in 1960

Checked suit in 1930

Camaro car model by Chevrolet in 1960

Issey Miyake, f/w 2011

Lady Gaga, in Salvatore Ferragamo, 2012

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The car coat: fade or famous?

In order to answer this question I decided on various factors that contribute to the car coat’s popularity. Therefore, I started to do comparisons between past and present situations based on the following factors: Look, car industry and movie.

Nowadays the car coat still seems to be present within various pret-a-porter collections such as Zegna, Burberry and Kenzo as an example. Designers play with different patterns such as stripes or plaits and vary within the materials and colours used.

As a result, the car coat has become an allrounder that seems to be transformed into a modern fashion item. which in the end means that the car coat has lost its original purpose.

Zegna f/w 2012

Burberry Prorsum f/w 2011

A fact thats also been supported by having a closer look at the changes within the car industry.: Firstly, convertible cars were more popular during the 60s, while nowadays there is a preference for cars with a closed roof top. This development has made an negative impact on the car coat’s necessity and in turn influenced its demand.

Present: Latest advertisement of the cts coupe, Cadillac.

Past: Cadillac presents the spirit of the 70s, cadilla ad in 1970

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Kenzo S2011

Also, among highly-recognised car manufacturers which produce highly-specialised car fashion, the car coat isn’t present within those collections.: There is the tendency to substitute the car coat by various short jacket types.

Avantgarde jacket for men, Maserati

Certain type of coats such as the trench have become famous within movies. However, films in which the car coat is featured are hard to find and its appearance easily forgotten.

Windbreaker for females, Porsche

Bomber jacket for men, Ferrari

Lamb leather jacket, Ferrari

George Clooney and Paola Bonacelli in “The American” (2010), wearing car coats against snow protection.

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Conclusion

The car coat: Fade or famous?

Overall, the car coat cannot catch up with the popularity level that it ones had., because the era’s have changed.

First of all, people had less choices to choose from in terms of fashion, which means that there was a bigger market gap for the car coat. Moreover, the car design and a general hype around the car favored the car coat in the 60s, so that it was needed and being produced more often.

Nowadays the car coat doesn’t belong to any popular culture anymore such as movies, because its look isn’t memorable enough. However, its been modernised and does still suit a flexible lifestyle.

In the end the car coat is still present, but not necessarily famous. Its name has been drowned out by the large amount of alternatives that are offered.

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Books Heimann. J., 2005, 60s cars-Vintage auto ads.

Taschen, Koeln.

Heimann, J., 2007, 60s fashion Vintage Fashion and beauty ads.

Taschen, Koeln.

2007, Clothing technology-5th edition. europa-Lehrmittel publisher, Haan gruiten.

Holborn M., 2008, Issey Miyake. taschen, Koeln.

Porsche, From: http://shop1.porsche.com/germany/women/pullover/wap937xxx0b/ [retrieved 03rd March 2012] Ferrari, From: http://store.ferrari.com/en/clothing/?page=2 [retrieved 03rd March 2012] Cadillac, From: http://www.cadillac.nl/modellen/cts/cts-coupe.html [retrieved 03rd March 2012] Zegna/Kenzo/Burberry, From: style.com [retrieved 28th february 2012] Dry clean only, From: http://www.wisegeek.com/can-i-machinewash-dry-clean-only-clothing.htm [retrieved 23rd february, 2012]

1989, Miles O’Donnol SH., American costume 1915-1917, United States.

Cabrera A., 2010, What I learned at fashion school. Grand central, US. Websites Mode Parade, From: http://barimavox.blogspot.com/2011_03_01_archive.html [retrieved 20th March 2012.]

Made Man, http://www.mademan.com/mm/what-houndstooth.html [retrieved 22nd february.]

Sewnowwhat, http://sewnowwhat.wordpress.com/2008/01/11/houndstooth-2/ [retrieved 22nd february].

Magazine Leslie G., 2010, Houndstooth Sleeveless shell.

Cast On, p.16.

Radio 2010, Greg carpenter: Remember the car coat?: Radio programme, 101.9 lite fm, 13th feebruary.

Myimageexpert, http://www.myimageexpert.com/mens_fall_coat_guide.html [retrieved 16th february 2012].

Ehow, http://www.ehow.co.uk/about_7237905_car-coat_.html [retrieved 12th february 2012].

LondonFok, http://www.londonfog.com/Heritage.asp [retrieved 12th february 2012].

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