9 minute read
Gimel
FEATURED PIECES Valerie Jo Coulson
Firenze bracelet The Echinacea Teapot
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SEVAN BIÇAKÇI
Sevan Biçakçi creates jewellery that is eminently collectible. He is often seen wearing several of his rings on each hand and stacking multiple bracelets around each wrist.
His bold distinctive pieces look like they might come straight from the proverbial Aladdin’s cave, making a statement that is inherently different to that of straightforward single, high carat gem rings, for example. “The statement my unique designs make about their wearers is quite simple: they work very much like the symbols of ancient goddesses and gods, telling us about their beliefs, strengths, love for nature or interest in culture, history and about many other facets, thus making them feel like genuine individuals. I don’t think that such goals can be achieved with the classic single, high carat gem ring which may hint at one’s wealth or the generosity of the person who buys it, however I personally expect more than that from jewellery. I expect my pieces to function as subjects, not as objects.” The cultural references of Biçakçi’s work are firmly rooted in the Ottoman Empire and the Byzantium before that, with collectors attracted by the highly idiosyncratic, story-telling style, intricate craftsmanship and fantastical design, all interwoven in the same piece. “The culture that is reflected in my works is basically a summary of the last 3000 years on today’s Turkish territory, which makes Armenian culture equally an inevitable part of it. I take pride in living in a geographical area that has been considered the melting pot of civilizations throughout history and I try to mimic this characteristic with my personal approach to jewellery design. From the viewpoint of cultural influence, none of my pieces are in fact of distinct Ottoman, Byzantine or Armenian character. Rather, they reflect all influences that have been interacting in this part of the world for several thousands of years. Inspired by an ocean of cultural layers, I create one-of-a-kind crossbreeds.”
www.sevanbicakci.com
Biçakçi “turns precious stones into even more precious pieces”, adding value and pedigree through design and craftsmanship. “I was once invited to collaborate with an emerald mining company from Columbia who wanted to commission twenty special pieces to be exhibited on special occasions around the world, starting with Cannes Film Festival. After showing me their inventory of “special” emeralds with prices ranging $40000-$50000 per carat, they asked which ones I would like to work with. My first pick was a 50-carat stone with a value of $2.5 million. I saw a chance to reversely engrave a cherub intaglio into it, but the moment I articulated this idea, I could see the host’s face turn pale. In a panic, he told me that their emeralds were too precious to risk; they would want me to use the stones as they are, without engraving reverse intaglios into any of them. Despite my attempts to explain that this is my way to turn precious stones to priceless ones, they were reluctant to end up with cracked stones or reduced emerald weights, so the conversation went nowhere. Gem quality and provenance are important, however, not the be all and end all.” Fair trade, sustainability and genuineness apart, Biçakçi is open to working with all kinds of gems. “Unfortunately”, he says, “some minerals like kunzite and zultanite would end up getting chipped in whole layers during the intaglio carving process, which automatically limits their usage in my atelier”. “Emerald and tanzanite are very fragile and difficult to work with, but it is a risk worth taking as I love them too much.”
FEATURED PIECES Sevan Biçakçi
Dance of Cranes Necklace of gold, silver, diamonds, mosaics with Carnelian tesserae, Amethyst with reversely engraved intaglio of two cranes.
In Eastern cultures, cranes are known for bringing news from afar, for being loyal, and for bringing good luck. Because they are monogamous, because they love to dance in pairs with the flock, and because they live long lives, they're even emulated by humans. Double cranes carved into the stone center of this necklace represents two lovers bound to each other by eternal loyalty.
Enchanteur Ring of gold, silver, a diverse array of diamonds cuts, and a tanzanite with reversely engraved dome architecture intaglio
Over the five hundred years following the conquest of Constantinople, stunning mosques, covered bazaars, mausoleums, hammams and other complexes were built throughout the realm of Ottoman Empire. Many of these were influenced by the magnificence of the Hagia Sophia: Sevan’s trademark dome-shaped ring arose from the same enchantment. To accomplish this difficult task, he sometimes risks precious but extremely fragile gemstones – tanzanite in this case – as he puts into it a carefully engraved domed bazaar intaglio. And even though the stone did not break by the time the job was finished, it lost almost half of its weight as dust away into the air. In this piece, around 200 sparkling diamonds of a variety of cuts are spread across the base to do justice to the hard and beauty that went into it.
FEATURED PIECES Sevan Biçakçi
King Cobra Bracelet of gold, silver and a diverse array of diamond cuts in various shades
The King Cobra: An important symbol of determination, assertiveness, daring, transformation and grace in many ancient cultures. In this piece, the design of th ejing cobra’s jaw functions as a ring. The body and til allow the bracelet to be easily attached and removed thanks to spring joints that allow for mobility. An array of different cuts of diamonds come together in various sshades of cognac and yellow to depict the patterns and texture unique to the snake.
FEATURED PIECES Sevan Biçakçi
Golden Horn Bracelet of gold, silver, diamonds, miniature paintings
The space formed at the front when the cuff is closed is framed with black diamonds, and represents Istanbul’s Golden Horn and the thousands of years of history it’s paid witness to. The parts that touch the lower wrist offer views from both sides of the Golden Horn, displayed as Ottoman miniatures against a gold leaf background. The rest plays homage to a flying flock of seagulls highlighted with white diamonds. The spring-loaded hinge at the back allows the bracelet to open from the front to either side.
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FEATURED PIECES Sevan Biçakçi
Gazella Wristwatch of gold, silver, diamonds, and sapphire glass with reversely engraved intaglio of a gazelle figurine.
Alaattin Gaybi was the son of the bey (prince) of the Alaiye beylik (principality). After shooting a gazelle under its arm, he chased the fleeing gazelle to Abdal Musa’s lodge. He couldn’t see the gazelle, so he asked the dervishes where it had gone. Finally, he saw Abdal Musa, shot under his own arm by this same arrow. After he saw this, Gaybi bound himself forever to Abdal Musa, refusing even his father’s attempts to extricate him. The image of the gazelle appears on this glass cover of this wristwatch as it leaps towards the sky, all while remaining stationary. It’s instilled not with violence, but with love.
Messenger Ring of gold, silver, black and brown diamonds and a smoky quartz with reversely engraved dove intaglio
The first to leave Noah’s Ark after the Great Flood, returning shortly thereafter with an olive branch in its beak, heralding the continuation of life on Earth despite the greatest natural disaster in history... The dove has been a symbol of survival ever since.
RARE 1
David Birnbaum is the founder of, and guiding force behind, Rare 1, the brand extraordinaire conceived to fill a gap on the global market.
As the name suggests, the firm deals in gems of ultimate rarity. “Clients globally come to us for the exceptional quality, rarity, beauty and value of the gems, certified by our brand signature.” Birnbaum’s vision? To create extraordinary pieces made with the “rarest of the rare” gems and offer the kind of exceptional personal service to match the quality of the jewels. Rare 1 showcases the largest selection of extraordinary collectibles at a private and discreet New York City salon - and boasts a worldwide clientele of super-discerning individuals. Prior to founding Rare 1, Birnbaum was a name principal at Andor & David Birnbaum, Inc., globallyknown as De Beers’ Sightholders. Rare 1, as a concept, deals in 10-250 carat gems: D colour, pink and blue diamonds, of vivid and intense luminosity, and sells to heads of state, billionaires, VIPs and private collectors. “We have the very top selection in the world, by far.” The firm equally offers a uniquely bespoke design service and is often called upon to create a piece around an extremely rare gem. The making of the carefully conceived and designed jewels is entrusted to a specific team best suited for each individual project. Birnbaum’s name is on every single piece by way of exclusive branding and quality certification. Rare, high spec gems are, of course, an investment, as well as a statement on the part of the owner/ wearer. Says Birnbaum: “95% of the investment is in the key center rare beauty gem.” “We look for both the visual and the technical when we source our gems; we need to be at the apex on both parameters.” The Birnbaum Rare 1 pieces have a classic, timeless look about them and let the gemstones shine. They are timeless, tailored, contemporary classics. Given the iconic status of the jewels, the brand sets great store by its legacy, defined by Birnbaum himself in these three words: Extraordinary. Timeless. Rare. The best contact mode for clients is by email: David.Birnbaum.NY@gmail.com
Blue Diamond (loose)
25+ carat Fancy Blue Pear Shape / Internally Flawless Diamond
Blue Diamond (in ring)
10+ carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond / Pear Shape / Premium Clarity
FEATURED PIECES Rare1
Pink Diamond
25+ carat Fancy Orange Pink Heart Shape / Internally Flawless Diamond
Heart Shape Diamond
100+carat Heart Shape Diamond / D Flawless
FEATURED PIECES Rare1
Pear Shape Diamond “The Jordanna”
45 carat Fancy Vivid Pink / Pear Shape Diamond/ VVS 1 / GIA Lab
Diamond Bracelet
Rare 1 Designer Bracelet / 12 Pear Shape/ D Color diamonds / Premium Clarity / average size 8 carats each / 95+ carats total diamond weight / in custom-crafted platinum
