Mana Matsuzaki

from BBeyond Jewellery: Spectacular and Collectible Pieces (2022)

Maison AUCLERT

www.latreia.jp

Mana Matsuzaki is an award-winning Japanese jewellery designer whose collection is a nod to the best in classic civilisation: to launch her brand she used the word LATREIA, a Greek theological term meaning adoration. The majority of her collections are also named after Greek words.

“I have long been in awe of Greek ancient history; the philosophy, politics and culture of that era have had such a powerful influence especially on the Western world to this day. When I came across the word “LATREIA”, originating from the Orthodox bible, I felt it captured perfectly the elegance I wanted to convey in my jewellery collection.”

Matsuzaki doesn’t incorporate any specifically Japanese cultural elements in her work – that would be an easy cliché, she feels. Rather, she draws inspiration from the shapes of fossils and skeletons she observed at the American Museum of Natural History.

“My designs can be appreciated and understood without complex explanations - I wanted to create jewellery that transcends ethnicities, cultures and times. I wanted to create jewellery that even space aliens could understand.”

That said, Matsuzaki has enormous regard for traditional Japanese handcrafts and techniques and while none of her work is explicitly Japanese, she feels she is subconsciously influenced by the Japanese shibui aesthetic, defined by laid back, subtle elegance rather than ostentation.

Her fascination with pre-historic adornments made of bone, horns, and other raw elements used before gems were mined is reflected in the design of the pieces, many of which appear to be claws, arrows or are scarab-like in shape.

“When drawing a human skeleton at art school, I noticed that the shapes of bones are really interesting. Staring at the big pointy claws and huge curved spines of the T-Rex for the first time, I found ‘factional beauty’ designed by nature itself. Ever since I have been obsessed with those natural shapes and have come to focus on the concept of “animism” and the original meaning of jewellery. I admire how our ancestors used to communicate with nature and the supernatural power through their jewellery.

Earth itself is a source of my inspiration so just copying shapes of existing creatures like certain flowers or insects is not my style.... They are already beautiful and perfect as they are. I’m not interested in recreating beautiful things into jewellery. I want to design beautiful work with materials that are not obviously beautiful. I want to focus on the hidden beauty charm and mystery of nature and bring these elements out in my work.”

Matsuzaki sources gems through trustworthy dealers who have been trading with her family business for decades. Her father, and the jewellery company president, has been an important gem collector since the 1980s.

Her favourite stones are red, pink and black: Rubies, Pink Sapphires, Tourmalines, Garnets and Black Diamonds. She also likes pearls. Matsuzaki’s design and craftsman studios are intertwined physically and logistically, a distinctive feature of fusing jewellery conceptualisation and jewellery making.

“I grew up in this environment since I was born: my parents started their own atelier over 50 years ago and have been producing elaborate and unique pieces, working closely with skilled craftsmen. I have always enjoyed watching the process and this comes naturally to me.

I am only a designer. I’m incapable of creating the actual pieces. I always need craftsmen who perfectly understand my concept and turn my drawings into reality. We need to work together and in unison to achieve excellence. This year, 2021 is our company’s 50th anniversary and when I take over the family business. I intend to keep our atelier going for as long as I work as a designer.”

Strong concept, artistry, craftsmanship and quality gems make a jewellery brand both collectible and instantly recognisable. Mana Matsuzaki has selected as her most recognisable and representative of her brand piece her debut work: a necklace that features a big round black diamond and south sea pearls.

“This piece obviously illustrates claw shapes and clearly conveys my original concept. Anyone can understand what I want to do as a designer through this piece. 2021 is also my brand’s 15th anniversary. Looking back on my own history, I re-evaluate my first work and I believe it is daring and keen. I would also like to feature my tanzanite necklace as it is a personal favourite of mine.”