Equinox
Contents
Erotic Asphyxiation
William- Harden- Chaters
Louise McMaster
Franziska Michael
Nihon Shinbun
Cirque De Cauchemars
Louisa Latham
Sacred Spirit
Child’s Play
Erotic Asphyxiation
Photography || Caroline Duffell Stylist || Caroline Duffell Make- Up || Caroline Duffell Hair || Caroline Duffell Model || Hayley Stoddart
Lace leotard: American Apparel; Bandeau: Urban Outfitters; Shoes: Jeffery Campbell Lita
Lace leotard: American Apparel; Bandeau: Urban Outfitters; Shoes: Jeffery Campbell Lita
Bralet: H&M; Hotpants: Topshop; Gas Mask: Kathman2
Bralet: H&M; Knickers: La Senza; Suspender belt and stockings: Ann Summers
Bralet: H&M; Knickers: La Senza
Lace leotard: American Apparel; Bandeau: Urban Outfitters;
Lace leotard: American Apparel; Bandeau: Urban Outfitters; Shoes: Jeffery Campbell Lita
William- Harden Chaters “I love that little bit of substance that makes us human. The way we all cry, laugh, fear. I think that’s the greatest beauty ever.
William- Harden- Chaters, a recent graduate of the University of East London, class of 2012 has studied Printed Textile Design for the last 5 years. He has worked freelance selling his prints and has freelanced for some brands that have designed for Lady GaGa, The Scissor Sisters and Nicki Minaj. Define your personal style. I work a lot with photographs and my own drawings. I don’t really see the point in using something someone else has created. Post-modern-photographic-abstractcollage-prints, Describe yourself in a sentence. I don’t think I could fit myself into a sentence, a paragraph on the other hand would be quite cosy. Where do you get your ideas from? I’m a day dreamer. My head is always in the clouds thinking of new concepts and ideas. I take a lot of inspiration from music too. How do you bring your inspiration to reality? This is a bit tricky. I write down my ideas and usually spend a day trying to translate one idea into a print. I usually end up with a collection of 4 or 5 prints from one idea. Who are you favourite designers? Why? Basso and Brooke have always been an inspiration. I’d love to meet them one day. They’re prints taught me to look at my own way of designing in a new sort of way.
What are some of your accomplishments as a designer? I managed to blag a free trip to Paris for a week, all expenses paid, with my last internship. I think that’s a pretty good accomplishment if you ask me. What can you offer that other designers can’t? My own style. I put a lot of myself into my work, my personality/ies, my loves, my hates, even my own cat. I think a lot of people in the print sector create because they want to create something pretty. I create because my personality overflows it’s container. What advice do you have for aspiring designers? Don’t eat play-doh, I did that once and I can still remember the salty taste. What is designing to you? It’s about creating a vision and concept then trying to make everyone else see what you see.
“The exploration of science has always interested mankind. From the earliest of cavemen to modern day austronauts, science plays a key role in our everyday lives. This project investigates the beauty and wonder of geology happening under our very own feet.�
What do you do in your free time? I’ve not had free time since 2010. I like to doze in bed and dream. It’s a full time job in itself. What do you hope to have achieved 10 years from now? My own print company, a well established brand/name, a husband, children, a white picket fence. I’m not too fussy with the latter.
What makes you unique from other designers? My constant drive to create even when your last project has been a total failure.
The natural talent you would like to be gifted with? I’d love to be able to embroid by hand... I just lack the patience. Who are you heroes? I have too many to mention. My mother, my cat, Donna Summer, Lady Gaga, The people that serve me fast food when I’m too drunk, Jesus, Tina Turner, Transsexuals, the list goes on forever.. What do you love most in others? I love that little bit of substance that makes us human. The way we all cry, laugh, fear. I think that’s the greatest beauty ever. What do you dislike most in others? Bad manners, arrogance, wealth.
Your fave motto. Where there’s a Will, there’s a way... and I’m always usually near.
Louise McMaster “I look for creativity and a free spirit, people who aren’t scared to step out of the box to achieve new and exciting things.”
Louise has just turned 20 and and is from Newcastle Upon Tyne, she has spent the last 4 years studying fashion design and and has a place secured at Doncaster Uni to finish off my degree in their final year. She eats, sleeps and breathes design as as she works in a bridal shop which requires a lot of creative flare and in her spare time she is either sketching for her portfolio or making a dress for herself. Define your personal style. My personal style is very vintage but with a modern, graphic element. Mixing future with the 50’s. I usually say my designs are like if Tim Burton directed Jane Eyre, romance with a dark side. Where do you get your ideas from? I get a lot of my ideas from film and different periods in time. I am currently looking at a lot of the natural world for my inspiration, the northern lights, the polar ice caps, death valley etc. Places with a lot of natural beauty. Who are your favourite designers? Why? My favourite designers are more avantgarde than normal. Japanese designer Guo Pei is my ultimate inspiration, her work is very luxurious and architectural. Completely unwearable but completely breathtaking. I also refer to Viktor&Rolf and.
Gareth Pugh for their amazing technical skills. They are more ready-to-wear but still highly creative and almost couture looking. What can you offer that other designers can’t? I can offer a more playful vision of fashion, making it not-so-serious and making all my clothes very light-hearted What do you hope to have achieved 10 years from now? In 10 years from now I hope to have my own studio, whether that’s here or somewhere abroad, designing amazing pieces for the red carpet or one off couture show-stoppers. I hope to have worked for an already established designer, gaining experience and learning other techniques. I am also going to Paris in June for a month to study at the Paris Fashion Institute in the Cite Universitaire, learning how to develop a collection, set up a business and attend lectures and workshops with top designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and many, many others. Who are your heroes? My heroes include the amazing Alexander McQueen, for opening everyone’s minds about how fashion can work. The woman who discovered him, Isabella Blow, who never failed to wow people with her unique style and her eye for talent. They were both strong people with a strong
vision. Finally I would have to say Tim Burton just for his boldness and creativity, he’s never scared to be as creative and crazy as he can be with a whimsical feel but still fashion forward. I have also been greatly interested in science, Physics in particular. I always try to include a more technical aspect to my designs and if i had the funds and resources I would love the chance to create a very modern and ‘physics-y’ collection. What advice do you have for aspiring designers? I would tell other aspiring designers to get as much experience as you can, all the little things and never be too shy to ask other companies for help - you can never be pushier than when you’re a student!!! You can get away with anything What do you love most in others? In others I look for creativity and a free spirit, people who aren’t scared to step out of the box to achieve new and exciting things.
What do you dislike most in others? Things I dislike in others is a lack of belief in themselves. When people come to me and say they can’t do this, or they can’t look like that i get very frustrated and try to spur them on to do what they want to do. Whether that’s take a controversial job, or course or just to buy a dress that isn’t their usual style. If I could have a natural talent to be gifted with it would magic! So I could make my garments make themselves!!!!!! Your favourite motto... My favourite motto is “Snooze you lose”. My family take the mick out of me for saying it all the time. Don’t miss out on opportunities or procrastinate, or you’ll never achieve everything you want.
Franziska Michael Franziska Michael’s designs are characterised by contrast. Structure and fluidity, colour and monochrome, natural fibres and high-tec synthetics are all employed to create women’s wear that defies expectations.
Inspired by the lifestyle of the 90s, childhood memories and fantasy worlds, we remain far from reality.
Nihon Shinbun Photography || Caroline Duffell Stylist || Annaliese Dove Model ||Scott Finlay
Green Parker and cream shirt: Urban Outfitters;Navy Knitted Jumper: MKI Leeds; shorts: ASOS.
Opposite page: The green parker, cream shorts and backpack: Urban Outfitters; jeans: Asos; boots: stylists own.
Cream shirt
with ppatterned pocket and back: Topman Cord trousers: All Saints
Yellow Jacket and navy shorts: Fenwicks, Cardigan, shirt and hat: Urban outfitters
Camoflage jacket: Urban Oufitters; Shirt: All Saints; black jeans: River Island
Patched denim shirt: Urban Outfitters; black jeans: River Island; wellies: stylists own.
Opposite page: Hawian shirt: Topman; black jeans: River Island; boots: Stylists own
Cirque
De Cauchemars Photography || Caroline Duffell Stylist || Caroline Duffell Make- Up || Caroline Duffell Hair || Caroline Duffell Model || Olivia Bowerman
Hat: Topshop; blazer: H&M; vest: H&M; bow: Attica; trousers; Deep
Hat; Topshop: bow; Attica; vest: H&M; trousers: Fenwicks; braces: sty;ists own.
Hat: Topshop; blazer: H&M; bow: Attica; trousers and sleeveless shirt: Deep; Dr. Marten’s: Schuh.
Hat: Topshop; blazer: H&M; vest: H&M; bow: Attica.
Hat: Topshop; blazer: H&M; vest: H&M; bow: Attica.
Hat: Topshop; Vest: H&M; Net collar: stylist’s own; shorts: Deep.
Hat: Topshop; blazer: H&M; bow: Attica; trousers and sleeveless shirt: Deep; Dr. Marten’s: Schuh.
Louisa Latham
“lifes too short. It really is. Do what makes you happy.”
Make-up artistry, modelling, and business. i’d love to at some point get into management, and I loved working in bars, so if I ever have enough money and enough experience, owning my own bar would be amazing. Unprofessional, is still make-up! Modelling, fashion to an extent - I love looking at trends and the new cuts of clothing and styles that are out, but a lot of the trends that are out I can’t wear cause of my body type, it would just look ridiculous and do absolutely nothing for me! But I’ve recently treated myself to a few new things, a gorgeous Chanel esque jacket from topshop, a properly comfortable jersey maxi dress from miss selfridge, cut out at the sides and spaghetti straps but it looks a lot more expensive than high street! I love it. I love to cook and bake, apparently I’m quite good at it and I like to keep healthy where I can, but I’m awful for junk food, I have no willpower!! I love salads and I can quite happily munch on fruit and ryvita but then again I did have a massive burger king meal yesterday so.. ! ha. I pole dance, started in uni, and have been out of it for quite a while but it’s amazing, it’s so good for fitness and also for confidence, I’d recommend it to anyone. Driving is another unprofessional interest, I absolutely adore my car! I love cars anyway, and still maintain I could be a rally driver I would definitely import cars and own at least 10 if I had the money. A typical day in your life.... Haha a typical day in my life??! It’s so boring haha. At the minute as I’ve left uni there’s not much to do! It’s job hunting, promoting my business, I had a casting the other day for a fashion show, another two castings in the next few days, I had a few makeup clients and pamper appointments, but other than that while I have the time I’m travelling back and forth to Sheffield to spend time with my boyfriend Dan.
What made you want to become a model?
I can’t really pinpoint when I wanted to become a model, I’ve always been a little poser! there’s a famed picture in our family of me when i was tiny, about 4? with makeup all over my face, skirt and top on, clip clopping round in my mums shoes, hair pinned up! So it was a long time coming. I was scouted while I was shopping in St Helens for Models North (was Model Management in Liverpool and Manchester) but couldn’t afford a portfolio, then the next year in Liverpool, then the next year but by this time i was off to Uni so couldn’t sign with anyone. That gave me the confidence to pursue it, although didn’t know how to go about it. Then last year I decided I wanted to go for it, but was worried about reactions I’d get, from family and friends, but mostly it was supportive. The same day I decided, my Uncle died, sounds like a movie plot haha! But seriously, it was so tragic and unexpected it made me realise life really is too short! And i was 19 going on 20, scouted from 15, loved modelling since about 11, it was about time I grabbed the bull by the horns to be honest. And I’ve loved it since. Would absolutely adore it as a full time job along side makeup. What age did you start modelling? So I started at 19, about 3 weeks before my 20th birthday, doing time-for shoots, where no money is exchanged, but you model for a photographer and are paid in pictures, and their payment is having a model to practise on and shoot etc., I’ve never paid for a shoot but have a decent portfolio to take to castings. Another reason I left uni was to pursue modelling and see if I could turn it into an income rather than a hobby I happen to be okay at! Modelling took a massive backseat, I found I couldn’t juggle both, I had no network in the north east. How did you feel when you did your first ever photoshoot? Who was it for? Did anything funny or embarrassing happen? My first ever photoshoot was a group beach shoot in Formby in Southport. The day before I’d been discharged from hospital, and I was in no fit state to do anything, but I went anyway! Was an MUA as well as model, and Amy Rawlinson shot me first. I was so nervous, and hadn’t really a clue what I was doing but
apparently was a natural! She said, can you smize? I was like yeah man course, and she went - YOU KNOW WHAT SMIZE MEANS?! Cue my shocked face like yes, it’s part of modelling, every model should know it! So we had a great shoot! For those who don’t know its smiling with your eyes, I’ll direct you to a photo haha. Nothing embarrassing or funny happened although we had to do baywatch style running across the sand, running with the lads - one of the lads was told to get on top of me for a couple headshot, he hadn’t a clue! I was like, just like lie on top of me, as if you were in bed! Then lean on your arms, like a press up?! We got there in the end... I did nearly pass out though, I was still really quite ill so my body couldn’t take it. It felt amazing though, couldn’t wait for the shots, and although I generally hate how my body looks, I was just so proud I’d done it finally, and was getting comments from the photographers like “every tog wishes for a model with perfect skin, and that’s Louisa”, gave me a massive head but felt great! It’s the confirmation I needed that I could actually do it. What advice would you give aspiring models? Aspiring models.. Just do it man. Just do it, seriously! Do it, if you love it, keep on. If you’re good at it, keep on. If you do it and turn out to be rubbish then so what, you tried it! It can still be a hobby, there’s loads of camera clubs knocking about, volunteer for those instead. And don’t forget that a shot you love other people might hate and vice versa, you’ll never understand why a tog chooses a certain shot to edit, but that’s the beauty of having different views of beauty itself. There’s shots on my page I hate, but have put up because the tog chose to edit them for a reason, and other people love them. Just one of those things. Do what makes you happy. Do you have any unusual talents? Unusual talents?! Erm.. I don’t know! You’re probably better off asking friends and family haha. I tend to make people laugh, unintentionally of course, and I’m alright at charades?! I love to dance, whether its a talent is another question.. (I have literally just text Dan to ask if i have any!) You’re a make-up artist too,what made you want to get into that? Yes I am an MUA, and it’s the same story as modelling to be really honest! I’ve played with make-up since i was old enough to recognise it.. Another anecdote my mum always tells me is that she once found me under the dining table at like 3 with her make up bag, absolutely covered, all over the carpet, everywhere! And she found me once rooting through the fridge, yoghurt and chocolate mousse down me, the door, the floor, hair! Pretty much sums me up, food and makeup. I’ve always spent any money I have on make-up and beauty products, I lived in Boots when I was younger, I did the Avon in my mums name (you have to be over 18) when i was about 15, I then got a job with The Body Shop At Home at 16, until I was 18 and went to uni. I love perfume as well, managed to land a temp job with The Perfume Shop, and have always done freelance makeup for family and friends. Just decided to take the plunge and set it up for money, I’m good enough at it, I’m told by tog and model mates I should charge a lot more! So it was a ‘why not’, it’s what I love to do, and I am to an extent in demand. I’ve always loved make-up artistry, I’ve never had an epiphany like “make-up!”, it’s always been part of my character and interests. What is your favourite beauty product? Oh my god favourite beauty product.. That is a horrible question!! So difficult to choose.. I am a beauty junkie, totally, I love everything skin and hair and make-up.. For my hair, I always use Tresemme heat defence spray, and Aussie conditioning serum, Racoon serum once your hair is dry is phenomenal! Lush’s RnB is amazing, I love using it on my naturally wavy hair, although you can feel slightly greasy the next day
it’s fine, it’s a hair moisturiser. Sometimes I even put it on especially for bed, to help the ends out and keep it soft. Skin wise, I couldn’t live without my St Ives face scrub, the normal invigorating one (the blemish and sensitive ones just aren’t as good!), it keeps my skin as clear as it can, gentle enough for every day but a brilliant scrub that just clears your skin out. I love fresh face masks from Lush, The Sacred Truth is lovely - meant for mature skin but it’s just a good vitamin rich bath, anyone can use it, and it smells amazing with the papaya in it! And if you’re a lush addict like me, if you bring back 5 of their black/clear pots clean you can choose a mask for free I would still spend the £5.75 though, it’s a win win situation and great for a treat. Burts bees have a great moisturiser, slightly expensive at £15.00 but it has witchazel and willowbark extract in as anti bacterial and blemish fighting agents, and the moisturiser is one of the best I’ve ever found, it just skins in, non greasy, immediate hydration, and I swear it’s evened out my skin tone and my skin feels a lot softer. That and the st ives, dream combination. I always, always, alwaaaaaaays have lip balm! whipstick and honey trap from lush are my favourites, but my budget ones are the original Nivea, burts bees, and the body shop have a great cocoa lip balm stick, that has the best staying power. Make-up.. well. Studio sculpt foundation from MAC i adore. full coverage but mix half with moisturiser and it’s just as good as a sheer wash over your skin. I love the select cover up fluid from mac as a concealer, or the studio fix for a sheerer coverage, more for pigmentation instead of the odd spot etc. Mac have an amazing new highlighter brick out, £18.50 but it will last you months and months, it is flawless. Some highlighters that are liquid can disperse into the makeup you’ve already applied, and smudge it and remove it in some cases - pointless to put it on in the first place! So this is a great powder alternative, and it stays as long as you need
it to. Lipstick is beautiful, I personally have more MAC (can you tell it’s my go to brand!?), although the body shop and bobbi brown have beautiful shades and are really moisturising. Bobbi brown eyeshadows are great as well - I love their eye products, lip products, and eye shadow brushes, but not so keen on their foundations and bigger brushes - I mix and match a lot to get the perfect product blend, I couldn’t care if it’s high street or own brand or if the foundation costs me £30, they’re my ideal products. I don’t like to use compact powders - have you ever had that orange glow on a night out? You’ve spent ages getting your make-up perfect, but when you’re out and about you get a little shiny, sweat on a night out, need a touch up to mattify you once again. Compact powder does mattify, but it puts more colour on you, colour that can stick and be patchy depending on the circumstances, and a patchy forehead on a night out is not a good look. I love MAC prep and prime finishing powder, a translucent powder to sweep over your finished make up, mattifies without adding colour, so you keep the orange glow at bay. For a cheaper alternative, I love and use every day Lush’s talcs, Silky Underwear and Vanilla Puff Powder. cheaper but possibly even better, although you only need a tiny bit, and blend it in circles with your face and body brush to get an even finish. It can be really drying but that’s why you use a tiny bit, and my clients always comment on how amazing the powder smells! It adds a little luxury to their experience and a little pamper . I genuinely have no favourite product, there’s far too many. How would you describe your signature look? My signature look.. bronzed. I love to be tanned, I think I look ill without a little colour! I usually wear just black liquid liner on my top lid, mascara, base foundation, bronzer and lip balm for an easy every day look, although recently I’ve loved using
bronze with a little blush, no eyeliner, and then a hot pink lip a colour pop, twist on the vintage look. I’ve been told on shoots to do, “the look”, apparently i do sexy well! So anything to make me smoulder i love as well, a smokey eye, brown or black hues, nude lipstick, bronze wash over the skin. Winner. What products should be in every woman’s bag? Every woman’s bag should contain... a finishing powder. Lip balm. Perfume. Hairbrush. A pen! hand cream. tissues. chewing gum. Your phone. Do you think you will ever consider bringing out your own make-up line? I would love to bring out my own makeup products!! I’d love it. I know exactly how i would have each product as well. What do you enjoy most? Modelling or make-up artistry? That’s so sneaky haha. I genuinely don’t know. I’d love to say make-up because i love creating and i love seeing how happy my clients are with the finished look. But if i was told I couldn’t do a shoot again... That’s not fun. Thinking sensibly I would say make-up, I don’t know how well I’ll age so make-up would be the choice for longevity. What do you hope to have achieved 10 years from now? In 10 years.. to have a name for myself within make-up. A bursting portfolio, an amazing base of clients, a well off income. To still be modelling, and hopefully being paid for it! Who are your heroes? My heroes, in general or specifics? Tyra Banks I adore, she’s just a beautiful person. I don’t think i really have heroes, just people I respect and admire. Credit where credit is due. What do you love most in others? I love others who are compassionate. Those who are respectful, and who do the odd selfless thing for others. We need more in this world. I cannot stand people being disrespectful. There’s a new fad circulating at the minute with young people like us calling their parents by their first name, it’s disgusting. Give your head a wobble.. And people who are plain rude! Having worked in bars, I without question refused service to people who whistled at me, tapped on the bar, waved, shouted at me for attention who are you?! Would you do that in Starbucks? In a clothes shop? And the main point is would you appreciate some body doing it to you. It’s disgraceful. And most people know they shouldn’t do it, and if you’re ashamed of something or wouldn’t want people to find out, you shouldn’t be doing it. Think what your mum would say! What do you dislike most in others? I dislike nastiness as well. Most of the time there’s no need for it, just give it a rest. People do it for show, to act up in front of others. It’s an age old trait but there’s just no need. Describe yourself in a sentence. Describe myself... hmmmm! I’m not sure! That’s probably me in a sentence actually.. Unsure. My usual response to people is, I’m sorry, what? I can be daft, but I think I’m a good person, I try to be, and I like to do things for others when I can. I’ve made mistakes but it’s what you do afterwards and how you are from that point on that defines you. Your favourite motto ... Motto? Would probably be, lifes too short. It really is. Do what makes you happy. And, it could be worse. Even if you have an awful day, it could be worse. It could always be so much worse, and when you think about what could have happened, chances are it wasn’t as bad as you first thought!
Sacred Spirit Photography || Ian Sproates Stylist || Caroline Duffell Make- Up || Caroline Duffell Hair || Caroline Duffell Model || Caroline Duffell
Opposite page: Headdress: JFeathersUSA; dress: Topshop; underwear: Urban Outfitters This page: Earring: Topshop; fur scarf: H&M.
Headdress: JFeathers- USA; dress: Topshop; fur scarf: H&M; Jewellery: Etsy.
Headdress: JFeathers- USA; Bracelets: Urban Outfitters; Rings: Model’s own.
Opposite page: Headdress; JFeathers- USA; rings: model’s own.
Dress: Urban Outfitters; fur scarf: H&M; earring: Topshop; Arm cuff: Kathman2; rings: model’s own.
Childs Play Photography || Caroline Duffell Stylist || Caroline Duffell Make- Up || Caroline Duffell Hair || Caroline Duffell Model || Amy Robson
Face base: Illamsqua Cream Foundation in 100; Cheeks: Illamsqua Cream blusher in Promise; Lips and eyes in Mac Technakohl Liner- Graphblack
Face base: Illamsqua Cream Foundation in 100; Cheeks: Illamsqua Cream blusher in Promise; Eyes and eyebrows: Mac Technakohl Liner in Graphblack; Lips: Illamasqua Intense lipgloss in Repulse.
Face base: Illamsqua Cream Foundation in 100; Cheeks: Illamsqua Cream blusher in Promise; Eyes: Mac Technakohl Liner in Graphblack; Lips: Mac Sheen Supreme lipstck in Korean Candy.
Face base: Illamsqua Cream Foundation in 100; Cheeks: Illamsqua Cream blusher in Promise; Eyes and lip liner: Mac Technakohl Liner in Graphblack; Eyebrows: Mac Colour Added: Eye Shadow x4 in Bright yellow; Lips: Illamasqua Cream Pigment in Dab.