While working on this journey book, I realized there are very few pictures of my favorite foods, places, and moments. I didn't think to take out my camera at the time because I was either in too much shock, too busy in observation, or too busy eating. Although I do not have pictures to accompany all my favorite experiences, I'll try my best to record them here in words and let the pictures I do have provide a small glimpse on the reasons why I'm so glad to have gone on this trip.
CARRIE CARDONA JULY 13, 2012
Wǒ yào
shuǐ? Never have I ever had so much to drink
in my life. Every morning in Beijing began with us going to the convenience store near our hotel with me buying a bottle of water and a bottle of orange juice. Next came the little “dots,” as Adede called them. They are these little buns with ground pork inside, sold at one of the breakfast carts that would always mysteriously disappear before noon. This was the daily ritual. Most people were sick of the dots by the first week but I never was. They are what I miss the most about Beijing (although I wouldn’t tell the others this because they’d groan in exasperation at the mere mention of my beloved dots). All girls carry parasols to prevent from getting a tan and wear telephone wire hair ties to prevent a crease from forming in their very straight hair. I bought three of these hair ties for 5 kuai (that’s about 80 cents and how much I’d pay for breakfast every morning, by the way) and I became ten shades darker this summer because I didn’t use a parasol… Something I’m not going to miss are the “squatters.” They’re basically a hole in the ground and it’s not uncommon to finish doing your business and not finding any toilet paper. This was a life-changing experience and I need not say more.
Walking to and from our classroom in Peking University, or Beida, was where I learned to understand the concept of self-preservation. There are what seems like a hundred people riding bikes and mopeds for every pedestrian. They weave around anything and anyone no matter how tiny the space. The same goes for cars. I was afraid for my life and for those around me but then I realized no one wants to hit or be hit, so what seems like complete chaos on the streets and sidewalks actually works as a system. It makes me question why crosswalks and street markings even exist. They don’t seem to be necessary in Beijing and I haven’t seen or heard of a single accident. This leads me to think that accidents happen in the U.S. only because people don’t use their instincts while driving, and expect the street markings and signals to keep things in order, and never developing the quick reflexes I’ve seen the cab drivers here exercise.
Summer Palace – what a beautiful place to be on our first day in China! After settling into our room at the hotel, we headed over to the Summer Palace as a way to unwind and enjoy some calming scenery.
RESPECT FOR THE NATURAL Something I noticed often was a respect for and idealization of nature. Moments like these show nature being framed in order to reiterate its superiority over the man-made. Professor Li explained to us the beauty and intention of each detail in the gardens. They serve as inspiration for music and poetry, as well as metaphors for morals and ethics. The sculptural qualities of stones are put on display and, unlike in Western thought, science is interwoven with human nature such that societal values are actually half botany, half moral discourse. For example, bamboo symbolizes uprightness and the winter blossoms signify endurance. The courtyard gardens were designed to be more than just places of retreat. They were laboratories of nature and inspiration. Ideas such as putting society before oneself arise from studying nature and are then taught to children.
CABS, BIKES, CROSSWALKS, SUBWAY…. There was a time when I considered crossing the street a near-death experience. If it wasn’t the bikes coming at me from every direction, it was the incessant honking from speeding cars that made me jump and squeak like a scared mouse.
Things have changed. East Gate Peking University metro stop
Anyone who has ever said Asians can’t drive are absolutely wrong. The cab drivers here are the best drivers I’ve ever known. They don’t miss a thing and could beat anyone in a car race. Same goes for the cyclists here. As for the subway, it is the best place to forget any notion of personal space and meet some really friendly people who love foreigners. Also, it’s a great place to learn Chinese characters by seeing the important city names repeatedly. I gained a good sense of direction by learning the way to roads I hardly knew the names of.
PEKING UNIVERSITY Professor Dihua Li Always enthusiastic about our ideas and never failing to greet us with a friendly smile, he made us feel very welcome and confident in our ability to come up with good solutions to the issues he presented us with. Professor Crisman Showed dedication to the program by continuing to work with us even when she had more important responsibilities at hand. Her perspective was a great resource to us, with all her experience in china and in architecture in general. Professor Huang’s colleagues It was especially kind of them to take the time to share their knowledge of the sites we visited. Their viewpoints were extremely useful in formulating solutions to the issues we addressed in our research. Professor Huang At PKU Professor Huang aided our interactions with the Chinese students and helped us form friendships that I imagine lasting a very long time. His desire for us to learn from each other was met and is the most valuable experience we could have had in Beijing.
To the west of the Imperial City, we studied the Xidan district, a major shopping area in the city of Beijing. This was the site of our study and we focused on the differences between the high-rise developments of today and the diminishing pockets of the Hutong – the smaller-scale structures that form the neighborhoods of the past. The need to catch up with the changes of the world has led to such disjunction between different spaces. Our initial research defined the effects of globalization on China, as can be seen specifically in Xidan.
An older commercial scene can be found on one-over streets parallel to Xidan. Crowded sidewalks lined with one and two-story stores, while run down and dirty, are lively and navigatable. The activity within the building is directly linked to the building.
We look to common sense design and development patterns of the Hutong that were the foundation for Beijingers for 2,000 years. We aim to envision Xidan as a resilient, yet modern, bustling commercial neighborhood in the heart of a rapidly growing global city and use the past as a learning \template to inspire our design interventions.
Xidan is a successful shopping district despite its vastness and wasted space. The nearby hutong communities are also successful in their own ways. What never fails to amaze me is how they can be so different and yet exist in the same area with no physical connection
CURRENT STATE OF PEDESTRIAN FLOWS AGAINST THE PRESENT HIGH-RISE STRUCTURES, XIDAN There is a tremendous amount of ground-level space on which to cultivate an active sidewalk culture. As of today, the large sidewalks lack purpose and direction, in addition to having little to no vertical circulation. There is a huge disconnect between the individual and the city infrastructure.
Adding awnings to buildings and extending the two lower levels of the building out further onto the wide sidewalks are a few simple solutions, as well as installing more benches in spots where benches already exist. The hutong provided a medium of overlap for public, private, and “third” spaces. It wasn’t distinctly private or public. It was a communal space that could be used by the people who lived there yet it maintained privacy from the meandering and free-flowing nature of the alleyways. This is the heart of our intervention concept.: increasing the number of Third Spaces that serve as catalysts for other types of change over the long run and as intermediate destinations in the neighborhood. These small interventions serve as catalysts for future development of small-scale activites that better relate to the individual.
PROPOSED INTERVENTIONS + EXPECTED EFFECTS ON MOVEMENT THROUGH XIDAN
This is an area we like in particular because of its ability to relate to the human-scale through overhangs and seating areas.
FRIENDS
Li Dan
This young lady poured her heart out for this project. She was the most invested and motivated member on the team by far. She changed right before our eyes from being quiet and shy to talkative, outgoing and conďŹ dent in herself, in just a few days. She was so fun to talk to and I hope we will keep in touch.
Yang Ming
As can be seen in this picture, Yang Min has a lot of energy. He is passionate about everything he does and is always willing to oer his help and answer questions. We had long conversations on architecture and landscape and learned so much from each other. I hope to one day teach him as much about the U.S as he taught me about China.
For my birthday, the group took me out to dinner at a nice restaurant near our hotel. They surprised me with a vanilla, chocolate ice cream cake with strawberries on top. I made a wish as I blew out the candles, and enjoyed the rest of the night with this great group of people. They made sure I didn’t miss the opportunity to celebrate my 21st in China. It’s a birthday I’ll always remember.
THE FORBIDDEN CITY
LESSONS OF THE CITY •Enclosure, axiality, and symmetry. • Harmonious balance of the 5 elements: wood, fire, water, metal, earth
The Bird's Nest is basically abandoned when the Olympics are being hosted elsewhere. We saw piles of dirt collecting on the exterior structure. If not for architecture enthusiasts, the poor building wouldn't have any visitors. I wonder how often the space is used nowadays... The water cube has a different story, if only because there is a water park inside. Otherwise I think it would be in the same situation as the Bird's Nest. We spent most of our time looking through the gift shop. Everything in there was "water cube" themed. Overall, a worthwhile trip to see some unique structures.
The temple of heaven gave us insight on the value placed on rhythm and balance. It was interesting to see the patterns in the number of steps between landings and to imagine walking in the footsteps of the emperor. The walk through the bosque of trees was also very peaceful.
The arts district was one of the most inspiring places we visited. It let me find a new artist to appreciate, gave me motivation to make some of my own art again, and we randomly met a guy who has been travelling the east for four years. He was on the second to last day of his trip before heading back to Canada. We were lucky to have met each other.
ON THE WAY TO THE GREAT WALL
PHOEBE LEADING THE WAY
CLAY AND I AFTER THE FIRST FLIGHT OF STAIRS
The steps don’t seem very steep in this photo, but we felt like we were climbing a vertical wall – my favorite experience in the entire trip!!!
The best part about walking/climbling/running across the great wall was that it was an arduous journey full of excitement and tranquility, all at the same time.
A LITTLE DOG WE FOUND. HE WAS CUTE AT FIRST, BUT THEN HE GROWLED AT US
THE END OF OUR TREK!
SUZHOU
All I have in my sketchbook about the Canglang Pavilion is as follows: Lots of water‌ and lots of mosquitos
It was nonetheless very beautiful and a wonderful place to think.
‌and a man who loved to photograph us
Spaces take shape and derive from the square, adding basic forms to the square to create others. For example, the repetitive octagonal shape seen throughout the museum is formed from the 4 sides of the square being extended and the corners generate four triangles. Thus the extended squares and triangles create the octagon.
SQUARE BASES on the columns hold up the corners of a courtyard space. Importance is placed on the corners of a square. Structure is seen on earth while the curvilinear is saved for the heavenly.
Known for its traditional features, local colors (green tiles and whitewashed walls), and the incorporation of water and nature
Exposed beams – no ceilings (unlike temples of the Forbidden City). The tips of the temple roofs reach for the sky in an organic and ornamented manner, unlike the procession leading to the gate, which exhibits a perfect sense of balance and symmetricality (through basic lines and shapes).
Confucious temple
YANS RESIDENCE GARDEN
Built environment was executed with the idea of interwoven interactions. The architect works with the craftsman, much like the scholar is working with the contractor. The built environment is thus designed at the same time that it is being constructed. They called this “work without a plan.� However, all pieces were carefully selected to make the garden. Throughout the paths the viewer is continuously connected to the adjacent spaces in a broken manner that makes for a dynamic experience
Deliberate, chiseled rocks. Square characteristic, no holes
Circular threshold + framed view
Mandy visited us during our stay in Hangzhou. It was great to see my old studio partner again! While trying to meet with Mandy for the first time in China, Clay and I were stranded somewhere in Hangzhou with no idea as to how to get back to the hotel. So, one of the first things I said to Mandy over the phone was, “We’re lost! Could you pick us up?” Eventually we gave up trying to find our way back and hailed a cab. The driver gave us a funny look when we told him where to take us, but let us hop in anyway. We were exhausted at that point and relieved to know we would be home soon. What we didn’t expect was for the cab driver to make a u-turn immediately after we got in, just to drive to the other side of the street and stop in front of our hotel. I called Mandy again and told her we weren’t lost anymore. No need in telling her all the details. Unfortunately she couldn’t stay with us for long but we didn’t miss the chance to go out with her at a nearby bar called Maya.
Notes The relationship between man and nature is emphasized in Taoism The goal is to appreciate nature through the garden’s landscape design Longevity is the prize for appreciating this relationship Island serves as a refuge for immortals
In Hangzhou we were given the opportunity to try fresh and local tea. We learned a lot about the varying qualities and benefits of three types of teas by taste-testing and humidifying our eyes. That’s something I never thought of doing before, but it was very refreshing. I bought two small portions of their finest tea, one for my mother and one for my boyfriend’s mother. It was interesting to learn that the packaged tea leaves we use back at home are almost always at least a year old. I’m glad we were able to try the good stuff
Immediately after visiting the tea plantation, we visited a silk-making factory. It was the most delightful experience to feel freshly spun blankets of silk against my skin. The group had to get shooed away from the mass of silk before us because we couldn’t stop petting it. It’s also no wonder why they were selling it for such high prices. The process of making the tiniest cloth is lengthy and tedious. I was not able to purchase a silk product in the fifteen minutes we were given in their store, but I did enjoy the fashion show and hope to get one of their silk dresses sometime in the future.
I’m taking this picture back to Charlottesville and asking them to remodel the architecture school to look like this‌
No matter where you turn, this school has a beautiful view of a landscape, work of art, or structure. I could not stop taking pictures as almost every perspective seemed worthy of being framed. Maybe I’ll come back and take a few classes here‌
In one of the pedestrian malls in Shanghai we had lunch at the best Thai restaurant I have ever tried. Just thinking about it makes me want to go back. Maybe we’ll go again before we leave! I learned to love Nanjing Road with all its familiar shops and foods. I spent an entire morning trying to find a Starbucks one day and instead memorized all the small streets in the area, which came in handy later when we had to walk home after the subway stopped running.
In Shanghai I learned to speak a little Shanghainese (for some reason the only Chinese I didn’t forget instantaneously), bought the last of the souvenirs for my friends in Xintiandi, changed my flight back to the U.S. through Skype, and ate lychee fruit until I became addicted.
FINAL GROUP BANQUET