CARVE Surfing Magazine

How to find your perfect summer board

P74

SURFING MAGAZINE

Tropical Thunder Brits invade Indo dog tales: 70's legend rory russell is back

boost your summer performance!

66

Alive and kicking When tow goes bad in Lanza

Keala Kennelly's Mammoth Mex Pit * Quivers Britain’s best surf schools

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& magic mals

in Portugal

carvemag.com ISSUE 116

flying fish

Hit and Run Mayhem

ÂŁ3.80

we show you how

Šsparks

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Features// 50 ALIVE & KICKING Towing in big surf is a doddle eh? It’s just water skiing downhill innit? All you have to do is whack your feet in the straps, grab hold of the rope, and wait for a tug. Once you’re up and planing your tame driver will automatically select the best wave and whip you into the sweet spot. You then surf to glory; that’s the idea anyway. We rarely hear what happens when things go tits up. Rob Small and Jof Owen had a bit of a kerfuffle in Lanza this winter. This is their story.

56 back up and bock on A road trip from the Algarve to Peniche with a crew of British and Irish rippers may sound like a dream job but it ain’t; as Faith No More said – “It’s a dirty job and someone’s got to do it…” That someone was staff photographer Will Bailey, who at press time is still recovering from the trip. Was it the endless miles of Portuguese driving or too many tosta miste that done it? Starring Nate Philips, Aaron Reid, Luke Dillon, Skippy Skilton and ringmaster Spencer Hargreaves.

68 Mick’s Tape Focus is taking a month off so we dug into the photo vault for some nuggets of Smithy gold. There’s plenty to wade through but these are the shiniest numbers we could unearth. One day Mick will do a book, which will be utterly amazing, in the meantime we can but continue to bring you the highlights skimmed from his ongoing quest for perfection on the left coast of Ireland. Starring Fergal Smith, Anthony Walsh and County Clare’s slabbing natural attractions.

74 Retro BOARDS- FISH, QUADS, MALS & MORE Someone wise once said you need to understand the past to understand the future; you got to know where we come from to see where we’re going in other words. There are no limits on what you can ride these days. The expression ‘whatever works baby’ is apt.

Skindog, Elliot, Harley and more share their quivers and thoughts on every conceivable shape going in our hipper than hip board guide.

92 THE fLUFFERS GUIDE TO INDO There are thousands of islands in Indonesia, weird then that just three of them- Bali, Lombok and Sumbawa are home to so many good waves. Come with us on a trip to the land of benchongs, Beng Bengs, barrels and Bali belly. An informational piece neatly padded out with photos of the Brit’s ripping it up all over the joint. It might just make you want to book an air ticket right about now.

On the cover: Reubyn Ash likes Indo. So much so he has probably spent a few years of his life there if you tot up the three month winter stints he does most years. Dividing his time between beachbreak froths at Canggu in Bali and perfect reef pits at Lakeys in Sumbawa he’s got it dialled. It’s also kinda fitting the best aerialist in Europe finally nails a cover on CARVE...

This page: Josh Ward, somewhere on Bali’s right coast, how much would you like to be where he is right now? Photo: Jason Childs

Departments// 16_Take off 20_Go 26_Foam 36_books/Music 40_environment 44_straight up

110_Essentials 114_sussed 118_Surf Town 120_Surf schools 124_final score 130_Out there 134_sessions

The Other One Board Short

Charly Martin Michel Bourez Naum Ildefonse

P: Hank

The Gudauskas Brothers: Pat, Dane and Tanner. Carrying the California surfing legacy forward.

Š 2010 Vans, Inc.

3” 4 COLOR

60.40.40.100

®

®

©2010 Oakley, Inc.

01462 475400 oakley.co.uk

Immune to judgment.

Julian Wilson wears Dispatch™

Opinions have never bothered us at Oakley. We brush our shoulders off on a daily basis. And so do all of our riders.

Take Julian Wilson, for instance. He’s dealt with it all. The head turning. The eyebrow raising. The finger pointing. The

occasional scoffs. But Julian is so used to blowing minds that he doesn’t notice any of it. It’s always been the same here at Oakley, where decades of notoriety have produced a thick skin of confidence that leaves us unaffected by all the attention.

takeo ff

EAT MY GOAL… So I’m sitting here in the CARVE office, a swish penthouse suite in downtown Newquay (in sore need of a spring clean), wondering what to write about for the editorial spread. A section where I generally write something thoughtful, witty and hopefully entertaining; as it is I’m looking at a relatively blank Word document and my minds as grey and foggy as it is outside. Even a triple shot latte on the walk in to work hasn’t kicked the noodle into gear. Maybe its cos I denied myself the regulation bacon roll from Warrens, perhaps I can’t think straight in the morning without cured pork products fermenting in my belly?

Inspiration is mos’ def’ lacking so I’ll default to the oh-so-British back up topic that you talk about when there’s nothing to talk about- the weather.

It’s gone from frozen winter, missed out spring, jumped straight in summer and then back again to coldness in the last week. The surfs finally broken the painful extended April flat spell for a totally fun, early

johnny fryer high fiving the start of summer.

summer, super session weekender and now is back to regulation one foot northerly wind slop and of course I missed the good days as I’d made one of those obligation things, where you promise to be somewhere and do something and it happens to fall on the only weekend the surfs been good, clean and sunny in months. Can’t be helped but it’s the enduring problem with surfing- the pitch isn’t always there to play on.

Waves are transient things, fleeting pulses of energy, born from ripples, building over time into swells, traversing vast distances of ocean then sometimes ending their long journeys on a surfable beach or a reef. Occasionally a surfer will get to enjoy these final moments as the waves twilight years are played out in the complex physics of wave energy meeting a suitable shoreline.

Surfing has a near unique problem; especially when it comes to competitions – sometimes the venue is broken. It’s like Andy Murray turning up to Wimbledon and centre court being an overgrown meadow sans net with a bored looking goat grazing. It’s still a grassy field but it’s not tennis. Jenson Button doesn’t get to Monaco for the GP and find the authorities haven’t bothered to close the roads and come 2012 Usain Bolt will definitely not be doing his 100-meter dash down a bit of rubbish strewn wasteland in the east end of London hurdling the odd discarded supermarket trolley along the way.

Their venues, tracks, pitches, courses are always there, they’re not dependant on the whims of nature.

Can you imagine a world where the surf is good every day? A steady rise and fall from waist high fun to double overhead grunt and back again every few

weeks. Offshore winds in the morning and evening and onshores to punt in at midday. How nuts would that be? As it is we’re like the pathetic junkies in The Wire, always scraping about for that next fix of wave sliding smack.

Makes you quite jealous of other sports, you want to play golf, go play golf, it’s that easy, don’t fancy a full round then go to the driving range. You haven’t got to study the weather every day to see if it’s gonna be good, there’s no questions that 18 holes of sculptured terrain is going to turn into fairway free farmers field over night.

It’s just one of those things, it’s what makes surfing what it is, an obsession, an art form, a lifestyle, and for some a sport. You’ve got to be committed if you want to be part of it.

On the subject of sport I will leave you with some sublime quotes from the humble genius that is Alan Partridge, it is your right, nay duty to shout them as much as possible whenever you are watching one of the four billion footy games that will be dominating the telly box over the next few weeks.

“TWAT!! That was liquid football!”

“Shit!! Did you see that?! He must have a foot like a traction engine!”

“Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes! That… was a goal.”

Enjoy the World Cup, but don’t forget to get wet when our pitch is actually there eh?

– Sharpy, editor

jason feast

arron evans, fistral

photo: lucia griggi

®

S U R F I N G

M A G A Z I N E

editor Roger Sharp Editor-in-chief Steve England Production Manager Louise Searle Operations Director Mike Searle Editorial Assistant Rob Barber Graphic Design David Alcock, Mike Searle senior Photographers Mickey Smith, Will Bailey, Roger Sharp.

Photographers Lewis Arnold, Bosko, James Bowden, Rob Brown, John Callahan, Kelly

Cestari, Jason Childs, Jacob Cockle, Estpix, Farscapes, Jason Feast, Paul Gill, Victor Gonzalez, Lucia Griggi, Alan Van Gysen, Hamish Humphreys, Tim Jones, Gary Knights, Al MacKinnon, Moonwalker, Stu Norton, Chris Power, Kirstin Prisk, Jason Reposar, Kirstin Scholtz, Mike Searle, Karin Seelow, Andrew Shield, Ryan Struck, Shorty, Mathew Tildesley, Tungsten, Anthony Walsh, Nick Wapshott, Alex Williams, Simon Williams, Yep, Alex Young.

Contributing Writers Will Bailey, Ishmael Hamon, Ben Mondy, Mickey Smith.

Advertising Advertising Manager Steve England steve@orcasurf.co.uk

Tel: 01637 878074 Call or e-mail for advertising rates or a copy of our media pack.

Subscriptions/Merchandise Subscriptions and Merchandise Manager Jane Chambers jane@orcasurf.co.uk

Tel: 01637 878074

Subscriptions are £29.99 for one year (nine issues), or £52.99 for two years (18 issues), see Subscribe Page at the back of the mag. Back issues of most editions are available, see the Orcashop ad at the back of the mag. Moving? Please write or e-mail giving both your old and new address, indicating that it’s a subscription to CARVE; allow three weeks’ notice.

Orca Publications CARVE is published by: Orca Publications Ltd, Berry Road Studios, Berry Road, Newquay, TR7 1AT, England. • Tel: 01637 878074 • Fax: 01637 850226 • e-mail: info@orcasurf.co.uk Sorry, due to the volume of enquiries we cannot respond to all e-mails. If you want info about where to surf or what equipment to buy, check our website. If you want info about other destinations, check the books advertised in the Orcashop ad at the back of the mag.

Repro, printing and distribution Printing: Garnett Dickinson, Rotherham.

Distribution: Seymour Distribution Ltd, 86 Newman Street, London W1P 7HJ (Tel: 0207 396 8000 • Fax: 0207 396 8002) CARVE is printed on elemental chlorine-free paper produced from sustainable forests

Contributions

CARVE welcomes high-quality story and photo contributions. Send contributions to the editor at the Orca Publications address above, and include an SAE. We are not responsible for unsolicited contributions (stuff we haven’t asked for).

Unsolicited contributions sent without an SAE will not be returned. Please do not send us colour prints as we cannot use them; we only accept digital images submitted to our specifications, transparencies (slides) and black-and-white prints. Contributor’s Guidelines for professional photographers available – send request on your headed paper with tearsheets of published work.

Copyright© 2010 Orca Publications Ltd.

All material in CARVE is copyright. Reproduction (including by electronic means, such as commercial websites) without the permission of the publishers in writing will result in prosecution. While every care is taken in compiling CARVE, the publishers assume no responsibility for any affect arising from omissions or errors. Views expressed by individuals herein may not reflect those of the publishers. CARVE is a registered trademark of Orca Publications Ltd.

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go!

STEPHEN WALSH

BALLINA N.S.W, Australia The name Anthony Walsh will be familiar to you, seeing as he’s done a bunch of good stints over in Ireland with Mickatron and crew. Not content with just pulling into crazy barrels for the camera Mr Walsh and friends are getting on the other side of the camera as well.

The results, as you can see, are pretty bloody stunning. We caught up with Anthony for the skinny on his little hobby.

How long have you been shooting?

Two years.

Who/what inspired you to get into it?

We didn’t have anyone from our area to shoot with so we took turns shooting each other.

Was it harder than you thought at first?

I already knew a bit about cameras, like what settings to use etc, so that side of it wasn’t as hard as I thought.

How dangerous is the whip in/POV deal with a proper camera rig?

When you look at a POV rig (POV= point of view, where the surfer gets towed in and shoots themselves) you can tell how dangerous it would be. It also is a challenge to surf with, a lot more difficult trying to shoot while you surf, there’s a lot going on!

Do you just take it in turns to shoot with your bro?

My bro and I and a couple other mates take it in turns. It’s kind of a contest to see who takes the shot of the day.

Who’s getting the best shots?

Well I took the best ones these couple days but Stephen got a couple of real nice ones of me too.

Loads of photogs used to be pro bodyboarders, why do you think the surfers are only getting into it recently?

Well bodyboarders are used to using swim fins so it’s a breeze for them to swim. I’m not sure why only recently its surfer’s starting shooting. Maybe we are not as lazy anymore. Takes a bit of energy to set the gear up, swim around and shoot, then go back edit photos send them out…

ANTHONY WALSH

go!

jason feast

OLI ADAMS

Little Fistral, Kernow It’s taken forever but finally the gloves and hoods are off. Maybe not the booties quite yet but by the time this issue hits the stands hopefully the Atlantic will have edged it’s way passed the 13˚C mark. So while you Devon and Cornwall types start to work on your poo-head tans (brown faces and brown hands, everything else white as hell) and toy with the idea of getting your bare toes into your wax once more spare a thought for the poor buggers up north, on the south coast or in Scotland and Wales. Cardigan Bay, the North Sea, and the Bristol and English Channels are all shallow hence lose their heat more in the winter and lag behind the water temps in the south west by 2˚C or more. So in parts it’s still firmly 5mm weather; which in June is no fun.

What was fun was the sweet little weekender swell in mid May, not big or clever, just head high, smashable and a taster of things to come. The Atlantics been in a weird mood this year, lets hope it results in an epic summer of swell, and you never know, some actual sunshine.

Whatever happens Oli’s bound to out there, keener than the most frothingest of groms, punting frontside airs like this one, whacking backside reverses and generally keeping the tail high, cos that ladies and gents, is what performance surfing is all about these days.

go!

Ryan Struck

Keala Kennelly Puerto Escondido, Mexico Puerto Escondido is the heaviest, most terrifying beachbreak in the world- fact.

Sure La Graviere down in the Hoss’ gets well heavy and will break your neck as soon as look at you but Puerto is the daddy by a mahoosive margin. Rippy, unpredictable and heavier than a beachy has any right to be… it’s already claimed one life this season (RIP Noel).

Surfing it when it’s big is a waiting game, timing the sets to paddle out without getting yourself torn a new one, being patient and sitting there until you get a good lined up one that’s not a terrifying closeout, all whilst dodging the inevitable sneaker sets.

So it makes sense the locals are utilising a bit of petrol power to help them out when

it’s huge. It’s still deadly but it stacks the odds a bit more in your favour. Rolling double six recently was Keala Kennelly, who thanks to a tow from Coco Nogales, got the bomb of her life and one of the sickest barrels ever ridden by a lady- “I was just really lucky to get that wave, it’s all thanks to Coco whipping me into the perfect spot, he put me in right in the perfect place. I got a lot of speed from the ski, without the ski there’s no way I would of made the barrel, I let go of the rope with heaps of speed and I just set my line, the barrel was throwing and going really fast, I had to pump in the barrel cos I really didn’t want to fall, at one point I thought it was going too fast and I wasn’t going to make it but I did… All thanks to Coco!”

KK also reckoned there were heaps of closeouts and probably only about five makeable barrels the entire session. So she’s a little bit stoked, well, you would be wouldn’t you!?

foam

shields

Parko’s Pied Piper Booger Train

Like lambs to the slaughter.

Scientists have now established why the bodyboarding population of the world is being decimated. It is down to a one-man extermination unit, the popular Australian pro surfer Joel Parkinson. The normally affable and easy going ‘Parko’ has a sideline hobby, a dark passenger if you prefer, where he lures bodyboarders to their watery graves in an effort to cleanse the world’s line-ups of the beflippered kind.

Inspired by the noted Germanic serial killer ‘The Pied Piper of Hamelin’ Gold Coast resident Parkinson lures his prey to their doom by singing a hypnotic version of the popular bodyboarding anthem ‘Ripping The Pit’ with the chorus, “This is the time of our lives, we got it all!” and like the German children of myth the boogers follow the hypnotic sound of his voice, often forming booger trains as they surf or kick after him. How he then dispatches of the poor lid riders is not known, this extraordinary story has only come to light thanks to this chance photo from our lensman Mr Andrew Shield, who was quoted as saying, “everyone round here’s turning a blind eye to Parko’s little hobby, more waves for the rest of us aye?”

surfer jobs Surf photographer

Everyone wants to be a surf photog’, lord knows why as the pay is minimal, conditions awful and you get to miss the best surf you will ever witness in your life.

Getting there: No formal training is required, many big name professional surf photog’s are self taught, although many of the best water photog’s come from a bodyboarding background- Mickey Smith, Tim Jones, Jeff Flindt, Scott Aichner etc. Used to the swim-fins and being in heavy situations see.

Skill set required: Rich parents, fat credit card limit or a monk like zeal to work your nuts off at any job to get the cash together for equipment; because photography is all about the gear. You cannot be a pro surf photog just fannying around with arty film and old cheap cameras. These days a Canon 7D, housing, plus all the lenses, tripods and other stuff is a minimum of £10,000.

Cash: A double page

spread in a surf mag will pay you £100. Now do the math on how long it will take you to pay for the equipment (not to mention live/eat/pay rent). Surf photography is something best done for the love, not for the reward, because apart from the elite handful of guys worldwide most are living on crumbs and in the UK all the mags have staff photogs.

Good bits: Worldwide travel, ultimate job satisfaction, year round perma-tan, hanging out with seriously good people, days off when it rains.

Bad bits: Missing good surf, being expected to lug 30kgs of gear around like a pack horse, never pulling (cos pro surfers always bag the ladies), poor pay and conditions, no job security, danger of death.

Ambitions: Getting a cover shot is the big ambition. Once you’ve done that in the UK then an international cover (Surfer/ Surfing/ASL etc) is the Holy Grail. That and actually making some money.

mike searle

FACEBOOK – The best updates from the crews ever so exciting lives…

FB queen HellYeah!

This month could be entirely filled by Sophie Hellyer’s barbed witticisms but we let a few other people have a go too…

Sophie Hellyer David Cameron not only cancelled Eastenders, but he appears to have killed the O2 network all over the UK. We are not off to a good start, you and I, Mr Cameron!

Easkey Britton loving the power of Mother Nature and discovering the joys of trains after that ash cloud kept following me around Europe!

Lee Bartlett you can tell how flat the surf is by the amount of people on Facebook chat!

Sophie Hellyer Perv o’clock on channel 5, does Christiano Ronaldo have the best body? That is correct.

Tobias Donachie wants an intelligent, classy, well-educated woman who says f*ck a lot.

Sophie Hellyer OMG, did I just actually turn on the TV to a porno with Screech from ‘Saved from the Bell’? Ick!

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The Billabong Pro Santa Catarina was long done by press time (we did the froth online and on FB) but it was a sick event, especially considering the fairy tale ending with Jadson Andre winning in front of a home crowd. But the thing that really made our collective eyeballs go pop and dribble ketchup down our faces was Dane Reynold’s method air. We ♥ Dane…

This is why Dane is a god. This is an ‘air’ reverse, not a lip reverse like that jadson fella.

}

sharpy

You want to do this? Really? It’s about three-feet deep over rocks right there.

THE £3,000,000 UNDERWATER MISTAKE…

Boscombe’s artificial reef in official ‘not actually very good’ shocker.

Yet another ‘pumping’ day at the reef.

In a result totally expected by every real surfer in the land the Boscombe Reef is proving to be less than awesome.

You may chuckle that it was completed 12 months late and came in £1.3 million over budget or sigh that it be y’all tax dollars being dumped in the ocean for no good reason.

All the committees, councils and expensive consultants in the world do not equate to one sensible surfer. Any of us familiar with that bit of the south coast could have told them all before they started pissing cash into the wind that the area does not get clean groundswell often enough for it to be a worthwhile endeavour…

Alas people that don’t know any better were presented with convincing arguments that the waves would be more consistent and bigger thanks to the reef. Which is arse. Clean ground swell (as opposed to wind swell with a shorter period) and offshore northerly winds are rarer than rocking horse poop.

Artificial reefs, so far, have not been a rollicking success, yet the same company continues to rake in the cash building them on the promise of delivering more tourists to the target area. The latest hoopla has been all over the news after a research paper by Dr Mark Davidson, commissioned by

Bournemouth Borough Council, gave the reef a score of four out of ten and was quoted as saying, “It was meant to be for intermediate surfers but it is suited to more advanced surfers.

The reef should control the way the waves break but what we are seeing is that the waves are more consistent along the beach than they are on the reef. Possibly public expectation was a little too optimistic and promises made were unrealistic.”

In other words you can’t polish a turd.

The council are hopping mad, “How the hell can the council and the people of Bournemouth be treated like this? I am going to make a formal complaint to the Chief Executive – we, as a council, have been misled. This is unbelievable,” – Cllr Ratcliffe.

“The criteria were changed and it was not made absolutely clear to the council. Now an expert has admitted that surfing conditions on the reef are less consistent than they are on the beach. I think it’s evident that we have a £3 million flop on our hands,” – Cllr Grower.

They council are withholding a payment of £150,000 until the reef is ‘improved’. You can’t polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter eh!

carve surfing magazine 27

foam

THE BEST with Harry de Roth

will bailey

Age: 11. Home break: Porthmeor, st ives. Sponsors: Quiksilver, DVS, Beachbeat, Robierobes & Waxy wax.

Hazza just asking for hayfever.

• place to party? Dick’s Sand Bar Hossegor!

• reason to punch someone on the beak?

I’m a lover not a fighter!

• member of the opposite sex you've ever seen? I’m partial to a bit of Snow White if you must ask!

• TV show ever? Simpsons • movie you’ve seen? North Shore • tune on your iPod? Dizzee Rascal’s Holiday and Bonkers.

• slap up feed you’ve had? My mum’s roast.

• wave you’ve surfed? The Superbank in Australia.

• surfer you’ve watched? Kelly Slater.

• thing to do when the surfs dross?

Skateboard.

• surf trip you’ve been on? With Quiksilver to the Gold Coast.

• dream you’ve ever had? To be a pro surfer.

• thing you’ve had nicked? My chocolate muffin by the seagulls.

• mode of transport you’ve owned? My skateboard.

• thing about your life? I’m still a grom and have years of surfing ahead!

• example of kindness you’ve witnessed?

Tim Whitefield letting me use a swell board on small days!

• performance you’ve given? Eating two steaks at Le Touring Café!

These things we know and we pass unto you…

1 2

Always have two blocks of wax in your car. One freshy for your stick and one sandy, pube-ridden, possibly chewed, fragment for lending to the inevitable wax taxer in the car park. It’s a win-win.

If you’re getting a lift with a mate for a wave make sure you pack a bin bag for your post-surf, pissridden, damp suit. The driver doesn’t want the taint of your pish haunting the car once you’ve gone.

Never claim the surf by text message to your mates until it’s too late. When it’s near dusk and too late for a sesh then by all means drop the ‘OMG it was off its frickin’ chops today! Where were you? LOL’ to rub it right in.

Never ever use LOL or OMG in a text message or online unless you are a teenage girl or pretending to be a teenage girl ;) We don’t need to tell you this but just to be sure – do not ever wear boardshorts outside of your wetsuit. Unless you want every single right-minded person in the universe to think you are a tool of the highest order, and yes it is okay to point and laugh if you see someone doing it.

Ultra hairyness is not cool. Chicks do not dig it. Invest in some clippers. Keep that shit at No2 max. You’ll be surprised at the benefits – one being not peeling your suit off and it appearing that its been borrowed by a mountain gorilla. That said a Connery style chest wig is acceptable as long as it ain’t too much of a thatch.

Always be as careful as a brain surgeon if you are bringing razor sharp mechanised clipper blades anywhere near your meat and two veg. Trust us it smarts when it goes wrong and it’s a tricky area to apply a plaster.

You can never have too many of the following – fin keys, leash strings, leashes, fins. Keep spares squirreled in your car, garage and girlfriends house.

If you are too deep for the wave of the day go anyway to give the crowd a show. Everyone loves a good wipe-out and someone on the right spot can still enjoy the ride.

By all means hack down a tree and shape your self an alaia board if you feel the need to be a hipster.

Just don’t expect a spot in the line up rotation. They don’t paddle, can’t turn and do you really want to be doing 360s? Thought not.

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28 carve surfing magazine

THE FLAMING SWORD OF TRUTH Where we ask the riders the big questions…

Politicians – good people serving their nation or borderline criminals with their mitts in the till?

“They’re just misunderstood victims of their wealth.

Imagine growing up, private education, maybe a chauffeur, never wanting for anything. So what do they do with there life? Do they travel the world surfing the most insane waves? No, they would rather have to shave everyday, wear the wrong kind of “suit”, sit in a big building with other misguided people “voting” on whether Newquay should have another “gentlemens club” and having sex with prostitutes. I pity them. What kind of a life is that? Imagine having to shave everyday!” – Lee Bartlett “We are merely pawns in their big game, a game where they make the rules, don’t let them make the next move people, vote Bartlett for prime minister, every one in favour say, ‘Hell yeah!’” – Alan Stokes “Crim’s! They're all full of it, they're just a smart version of the annoying guy at the pub who wants to argue with anyone right or wrong, just so he gets some attention.” – Micah Lester “Power hungry, out of touch charlatans.” – Joss Ash “None of them are good looking, so I tend not to listen to them.” – Beth Mason “If Browny boy did a shirtless interview in Cosmo he might get more votes, erm, or not…” – Gwen Spurlock “Shit the bed, there’s a hot politician in Bideford I nearly just crashed on the roundabout checking out his poster! That being said I won't be voting for him.”

– Sophie Hellyer

Do you think politicians are bent?

KEY: Yes No Don’t know

RIDER: YANNICK DE JAGER

SURF TILL YOU CAN’T KEEP YOUR E YES OPEN. DREA M OF SURFING. THEN SURF SOME MORE. ISLAND PROTEST MAKES TRIPS TO THE SHORE OBSOLETE. PROTEST TO GET THERE. PROTEST.EU

will bailey

foam Steve and his latest bit of urban art.

Steve Phillips

Known as Dog Shit Steve, he's the unofficial chairman of the LMBC- Llantwit Major Busy Crew, a permanent fixture in the line up and one of Wales’s top surfers. He never misses a session in the pub, and has a group of friends that have been described as drinkers with a surfing problem.

Life hasn't been easy for Steve, from a very young age he’s pretty much had to completely fend for himself as well as growing up in the shadows of cousin and mentor Nathan. With limited finance, foreign travel only really came during the last few years all of which has been self funded but goes some way to explain why Steve has been somewhat of a late bloomer. Over the past few years his surfing’s been turning heads with a repertoire of power, tricks and airs combined with a saucy style.

Ladies and Gentlemen I give you Mr

Where do you live?

In a house in Llantwit Major.

What do you do for a living?

Painter and decorator, I’m currently doing a course to become an electrician to hopefully earn more bucks, also to allow me to get out of Wales and get some travelling done.

What ’s your average week entail?

Work, gym sometimes, sleep, surf if we are lucky enough to get any, I've surfed once in a month and that was two foot at high tide in Llantwit which is fatter than Southerndown! Also like to have a few beverages on the weekend.

Gym! Dont make me laugh, there must be a bar in that gym somewhere!

Hahahhaha I wish.

You have a very unfortunate nick name (Dog Shit) that must scare the ladies away?

Ha ha, yeah, it’s a bit rough, not everyone calls me that, mainly you and the Bridgend lot. To be clear it’s not cos I talk it, I tried breaking into your house and the stick I was using to break in with had dog shit all over it, and yeah it does scare the ladies away!

30 carve surfing magazine

underground hero

Steve Phillips

I’ve also heard that you’re a bit work shy?

Who isn’t? we get so little waves here that you’ve gotta somehow get in the sea! Probably about as shy as you though!

How often do you get to surf?

I surf as much as Neptune let’s me, I work self-employed so pretty flexible so that's cool.

Tell me about the best session this winter.

Best session? Well we had about three really good days in March probably as big as it gets around here, the one day was about five foot and super clean, I think it was the same day as Porthleven was 10-foot! But anyway it was pumping for round here, had three surfs, must of surfed for about nine hours at a secret reef, well I say secret there were about 50 people out. I’m sure you turned up to shoot for an hour!

Whats your favourite wave, and who do you surf with?

Periscopes abroad, Llantwit and a few reefs locally, surf with all the old dogs like Nate, Vaunt, Guff, Troll, Glenn, Worm and the mighty Will Bailey.

You never seem to leave Llantwit why is that?

Haha I love it, it’s a nice coastal town without the full rat race fairly close to cities of Cardiff and Swansea. Who would wanna leave there?

drinkers and pretty much all the boys could qualify for the keenest!!

You’re pretty sharp at airs, whos influenced your surfing?

Since I was young Nate was doing airs all the time an I just wanted to have a crack, Thought it was because you’re scared also Matty Capps, I spent a few weeks of missing a night out with the boys? with him in Indo and he defo knows how Well I do like a night out with the to boost. boys you can almost guarantee there

will be some of the boys out literally any How do you find bigger waves? night of the week.

Ok, it doesn’t get that big very often.

We've had some size in Scotland All you boys seem to be really close and France a few times, it’s something and there’s always a massive group of different to what we get at home. you, why?

I think it’s got something to do with the Any contests planned? drinking culture here as there isn’t much The Welsh nationals are at Llantwit so it else to keep the mind occupied! Most of would be pretty cool as I won’t have to us surf as well! leave Llantwit!

Who’s the slackest and who’s the Any surf trips out of the Vale? keenest surfer?

Well this course I’m doing has swallowed Slackest has got to be Nolan, although up all my cash but should be qualified you’re a good contender for that, and the in about two months and will be straight keenest is defo Vaunt I've seen him many to Indo. a time in the sea in two foot shite at 6am before he goes to work, fair dos to him.

Any shout outs?

All the boys and my sponsors – O’Shea, Drinker?

DK surfboards and No Limit Wetsuits.

Hahaha don’t think there are any slack

JAMIE O’BRIEN ALWAYS COMFORTABLE IN THE FOAMBALL AT BACKDOOR AND IN HIS NEW FOAMBALL SANDAL FEATURING THE FOAM-CUSHIONED STI™ FOOTBED. Visit the Etnies online shop at etniesshop.com Contact: uk@soletechnology.com

facebook.com/etnies.europe

etnies.com

jason childs

Sam Lam, RB’s main man in the UK…

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32 carve surfing magazine

AND VILLAGES OF EAST THE QUIET SEASIDE GIVEN THE APPARENT WAVES, CHICHESTER, LIE NOT FAR FROM STRETCH OF COAST GETS ANY DOES! WEST SUSSEX, IT HOW THIS DOWN IN LEAFY LORD ONLY KNOWS ISLE OF WIGHT, BUT MIRACULOUSLY THE WEST WITTERING. G POSITION OF SWELL-BLOCKIN

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ar t

Eating Waves – A Surf Art Event creative talent showcased at the driftwood gallery this summer The Driftwood Gallery is holding a surf art event this summer – Eating Waves. The exhibition to be held at the Newquay gallery aims to create interest and awareness of surf art and creativity in Newquay and the local area. The gallery will be showcasing some local talents like Sam Walsh, Tony Curtis amongst the bigger names such as John Severson and Thomas Campbell.

Anyone interested in the creative side of surfing should attend, as there will be some very collectable pieces available on the night! The artists featuredSketch, Wolfgang Bloch, Patrick Trefz, Robert Reader, Thomas Campbell, Tony Curtis, Diggy Smerdon, Bryn Hall, George Greenough, Alby Falzon and others...

To kick it all off there will be a preview night on July 30 from 6-9pm. As well as showcasing the artwork, there will be live music from Neil Halstead, Tom Mounsey and a piece of artwork will be donated in a raffle on the night in aid of Surfers Against Sewage.

The show will run from 30 July-8 August. For more information go to www. driftwoodgallery.co.uk

Sketch

One of the featured artists at the Eating Waves event is Sketch aka Harry Daily. Sketch is a surf art phenomenon – he went straight from high school to start work on some of the biggest brands in the surf industry Volcom, Roxy, Surfer Magazine. But he’s more than just a surf artist his artwork has expanded into a much wider genre into futuristic fantasy and under another alias of Harry the Hat. He’s a prominent contributor to the Switch-Foot publication as well as music covers, surfing poster art and his general surf culture prints that are now becoming sought after and collectable.

ACCESSALLOCEANS A c c e s s A ll O c e a n

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review

books SURFING MENNIE WAVES Alastair Mennie

They say the giant Finn McCool rose from Northern Ireland's Causeway Coast. They say he shaped that coast. In Al Mennie, the Causeway Coast has a new giant. 6'6", 220lbs, Alastair is one of Europe's top big-wave surfers. The book Surfing Mennie Waves tells the story of the Castlerock man’s giant steps into the world of big wave surfing. This is a unique survival story of one man facing the raw and awe-inspiring power of Mother Nature... It’s a raw honest account of Al’s journey and features a brace of good photos as well. Surfing Mennie Waves is available at www.almennie.com

The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness Lee Stanbury

Carve’s resident fitness guru Lee Stanbury is a man with a passion for surf fitness. He believes that if you have a dedicated surfing workout you will improve your surfing, surf longer and catch more waves. What surfer wouldn’t want that? In The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness Lee has condensed his vast knowledge into 208 illustrated pages with dozens of exercises and workouts. Stanbury is fitness coach to Ben Skinner and Oli Adams who feature heavily in the book, and although this will particularly benefit inland surfers, it’s also good for aspiring pros and regular surfers who want to maintain their surf fitness through flat spells.

The guide covers everything from stretching and flexibility exercises to core strength, resistance training and free weights.

Also covered is the use of exercise equipment such as medicine balls, swiss balls, and Indo boards, as well as a swimming programme and tips for young surfers. There are also tips and exercises on how to warm and cool down correctly, get out the back quicker, relax during hold-downs, improve your explosive strength and faster pop-ups and improve your balance.

Published by Orca Publications (publishers of CARVE) The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness goes on sale in July for £19.99 in bookshops, surf shops and online. www.orcashop.co.uk

music

LCD SOUNDSYSTEM

AC-DC

CRYSTAL CASTLES

MGMT

KATE NASH

GOLDFRAPP

This Is Happening

Iron Man 2 OST

Crystal Castles (2)

Congratulations

My Best Friend Is You

Headfirst

Seems bizarre but this is only the third album from James Murphy and co. If you liked his 2007s Sound Of Silver then you will hug this CD to your chest like it’s an old friend; nine tracks and a 65-minutes of squelchy, electro, synth-rock to be adored. Recently saw them live on what’s rumoured to be their last tour and the new tunes work so well with a full live band. They’re playing a bunch of festivals this summer so get involved and get dancing. If you can’t shake your booty to LCD then you maybe actually dead.

Not so much a soundtrack (as all the other music from the film is not featured?) but an AC-DC best of. Which is no bad thing. Good rock doesn’t date like N-Dubz will. For a generation that might not be familiar with the Anglo-Aussie rockers it’s a perfect introduction to all their prime cuts. The only downside with an Iron Man 2 themed product is the woeful lack of a free Scarlett Johansson with every copy… Just go and see the film that’s in cinemas now (still, probably?) to see what we mean- hubba hubba, tip-top, rarrrrrr, etc.

So much for the difficult second album, the occasionally awkward but brilliant Castles second long player takes up where that last one left off. Experimental electronica is the new punk; if you want some music to truly piss your parents off this is it. That said there are tunes. Some wag at the BBC likened their sound, "to be cast adrift in a vortex of deafening pain without a safety net.” Which is about right. The new long player got leaked online so it got released early, no bad thing, it’s insane.

Always a worry when there’s a cartoon surfer on the cover. But hey, this is MGMT, them that did Kids (you know from Stranger Than Fiction) and the anthemic Time To Pretend. So what have the New York duo gone and done- well they’ve ditched the psychedelic electro pop and just kept the psychedelic. It sounds like a 60s record. Fan reaction has been marmite. We’re on the ‘ick yuk!’ side of the fence. Not fans at all. They want people to listen to it as a whole, not as single tracks, keeping with the times then.

Kate Nash is back with the follow up to Made of Bricks and now she’s pissed orf. The catchy tunes and killer lyrics are still healthily present but there’s a lot more venom, rage and vitriol. Good to see from a singer-songwriter pigeonholed in the ‘cute as a button’ girl pop, she’s grown and matured since the last record and has obviously been listening to a lot of 60s girl groups. The pop edge is still there but there’s a fire in her belly that makes this a far more intriguing listen.

Production by Bernard Butler can’t hurt either.

You know it’s getting towards summer because a Goldfrapp album comes out and you just want to outside in the sun chilling out to it.

It’s less folky than Seventh Tree and harks back to the disco pomp of Supernature a bit. But it’s still well horizontal. Alison’s gorgeous vocals drip like honey over Will’s synth arrangements that have got a definite 80s vibe going on. Less melancholy than their earlier records, you can almost hear the smile in this record, it’s gonna be on repeat at a lot of BBQs this year.

DANE REYNOLDS

AND HE SURFS TOO. DIGITAL FRIENDS WELCOME surf.dcshoes.com

music

Boardmasters The surf and music event of the year is rapidly approaching: the line ups are getting nailed

down,the competitions hotting up and a new campsite has been announced. this is the latest skinny.

Relentless Boardmasters Camping:

Relentless Boardmasters in Association with Vans is proud to announce camping for the first time directly across the road from the Watergate Bay site. Complete with all the amenities a camper will ever need at a festival including food stalls, showers, toilets and of course luscious green grass to pitch your tent. So if you don’t have a place to stay and want to crash with us check it out: www. relentlessboardmasters.com Capacity at the campsite is limited and at the time of this going to print it is almost sold out – so act fast to avoid disappointment!

Nuts Bikini Competition

nuts babes contest.

Voting and entries are well underway for this year’s competition. Plenty of lovely ladies have already uploaded their bikini shots and thousands upon thousands of voters have been casting their votes. So if you think you, a friend, a girlfriend has what it takes (or you just want to see some hot girls) then check out: www.nuts.co.uk/boardmasters

Vans Summer Sessions the gallows.

Carve Band Search

mike searle

japanese voyeurs.

The vert skate event takes place from 6-8 August and invites skaters from around the world to Fistral beach to compete. The BMX mini ramp competition is also set to amaze audiences with a number of house hold names; expect to see the Relentless Team riders including World Number 4 BMX’er Mark Webb. This year’s record prize purse of $20,000 for skate and $7,000 for BMX means competitors will be fighting even harder for this year’s Summer Sessions crown.

We have been amazed by the number of entries we have received for this year’s Carve Band Search. It has been a difficult and arduous process to decide the top 10 contenders as the level of talent has been exceptionally high. However, we now have our top 10 bands that are now competing for your votes to win the chance to go into the live final, where the final four will play against each other in a battle of the bands to decide the winner. To vote for your favourite go to the official Relentless Boardmasters fan page on Facebook and cast your vote.

the relentless boardmasters location over looking watergate beach. goldhawks. madina lake.

here’s some of the bands who will be playing over the weekend: Relentless Stage Line Up…

Vans ‘Off the Wall’ Stage Line Up

Friday 6 August • Gallows – Relentless supported punk rock band, guaranteed to cause an uproar!

• Rolo Tomassi – Synth driven matchcore band fronted by the foxy Eva Spence.

• The Chapman Family – Brit postpunk bans and an NME top tip.

• Japanese Voyeurs – they say, “if you like Dinosaurs, come watch. If you like Hannah Montana, don’t bother.”

Friday 6 August • Headliner yet to be confirmed.

• Trash Talk – must be seen to be believed, you’ll have to wait and see!

• The Computers - somewhere between Costello, attractions and Black Flag.

• Chickenhawk – “truly their own vision, now matter how skewed a vision that may be” Rock–a-Rolla.

• Casino Brawl - the perfect tirade of soaring melodies and city levelling - bruising breakdowns.

Saturday 7 August • Chase & Status DJ Set – no introduction necessary, will go off, FACT! • Crystal Fighters – in their own words, “we make fast dance music with Basque instruments, synthesizers and our voices.”

Saturday 7 August • Madina Lake – Kerrang golden boys and all round legends, an alternative rock outfit that need no introduction • Failsafe – “killer live band with huge choruses and

for tickets and more info go to www.relentlessboardmasters.com

breakneck riffs” NME. • Little Fish - The name is the result of a daydream “Feel free, I wake up in a head spin. I am me. I am just a Little Fish. I see what I see...”

And completing the Main Stage line ups: Joining Seasick Steve and Newton Faulkner on the Friday are: Lisa Mitchell, Goldhawks, Peggy Sue and Thomas Ford.

Dont worry, Leftfield and Chase and Status’ aren’t being ignored on Saturday! They have new friends in the shape of: The Boy Who Trapped The Sun, Matthew P and Fishermans Friends.

For more info on the lineups, check the website: www.relentlessboardmasters.com

BERT WRIGHT

ALDERSPORTSWEAR.COM

enevnirtonm

Hairy Sausages &

The Deepwater Horizon...

“Deepwater Horizon” sounds like a sci-fi film starring Bruce Willis out to save the world from imminent disaster (again) but sadly it’s not fiction; especially for the communities on the Gulf Coast of America…

One hell of a kerfuffle in the gulf.

By Sharpy

View from the Carve balloon.

S

eptember 2009 was a happy, high-fiving time for the Deepwater Horizon, a Korean built, ultra-deepwater, semi-submersible, drilling rig as it set a world record for the deepest oil well ever drilled at a whopping 10,685m, just over 6.5 miles, which is deeper than Mt Everest is high.

Just over six months later the rig, leased to BP, was splashed all over the news for all the wrong reasons as on April 20 this year British Petroleum’s deep-drilling bad ass had a bit of an accident… Of course you know this, as apart from the Iceland volcano’s continuing ash laden bum-burp and some election thing it’s been the dominant story on the news. Fishing grounds are closed, local livelihoods are ruined, a slow oily death awaits the wildlife and it could take months to fix the leak properly.

So what the hell happened? It’s more a case of what didn’t happen, the explosion and subsequent fire was caused by a blowout, in essence a methane bubble rushing back up the drilling hole. The top of the hole was fitted with a BOP (blowout preventer) but crucially not fitted with a remote control to activate it in the event of a rig evacuation. So the BOP failed initially and the failsafe ‘deadman’ switch designed to close the wellhead if communication is lost from the rig also didn’t activate. Lacking the remote option (a legal requirement on North Sea rigs, but deemed too costly by US govt) there was no way to stop the oil flow once the rig was toast.

11 workers are missing presumed dead and 17 were injured in the initial explosion (ironically seven of the injured were BP executives on board to celebrate the projects safety record!) and the resulting fire was so intense it melted paint off the rescue ships…

Skip back to February 2009, BP filed a 52-page exploration and environmental impact plan with the US authorities for the Deepwater Horizon well. The plan stated that it was “unlikely

40 carve surfing magazine

that an accidental surface or subsurface oil spill would occur from the proposed activities”, and that “due to the distance to shore (48 miles) and the response capabilities that would be implemented, no significant adverse impacts are expected.”

Whether they modelled what would happen if the rig suffered an explosion, caught fire, then sank is a moot point. At the estimated rate of 5,000 barrels it will take less than two months for the current spill to surpass the 270,000 barrels spilled by the Exxon Valdez in Alaska, so it could well be the worst oil spill ever unless BP get a fix, so by the time you read this it could well hold that grim record as well. At press time the fix isn’t going at all well…

As it is the booms, burning and the ‘implemented response capabilities’ are not protecting the fragile Gulf coast, an area already ravaged by Hurricane Katrina.

Novel protection is being provided for the beaches by ‘hairy sausages’, nylon tights filled with hair and fur from hairdressers, pet groomers and farmers. The hair does a wonderful job of mopping up crude… bizarre but true.

Could the same thing happen in the North Sea? Thankfully not, as the rigs there operate in shallower water and are stood firmly on the seabed. The deepwater rigs like the DH float, and hence are liable to making a bit of a mess if shit gets real and they sink.

One possible down side for us is the Loop Current in the Gulf feeds into the Gulf Stream so in the months to come we could be looking at lovely tarry crude lumps washing up on beaches here, which as we know from the Prestige disaster means poo like streaks on your boards, carpets and just about anything else once it gets on your feet. Which is nice.

FYI: If you’re interested in doing a bit of drilling exploration in your own time it costs $496,800 a day to lease a similar rig.

Boom!

JE

CI

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RC

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ON W N E S AN FO L E U D CI OW NDE Y RC R A NER 19 69

Sh TH ap FU E ING TU RE

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TE A AT M R T I CA DER PE L

TEL: +44 (0)1363 773005 w w w .c ir c l e - on e . c o. u k

interspy

VICTORIAN INTERWEB SPY Our resident net savant from the 19th century casts his eye on the world’s wide web…

AN ALTERED LANDSCAPE

What ho fellows. The moving picture art form certainly has moved on from the zoetrope in my youth. Time was it was all horses running on the spot and a moustached fellow doing musical accompaniment on his organ. These days pint-sized chaps with strange backwards names like ‘Kai Neville’ make fillums for the web without the need of a cinema or hirsute organist.

Our man has been filming strange young acrobats with outlandish names like Chippa, Marzo and Kerr performing outlandish circus moves off various islets of the Dutch East Indies, a land of wild beasts and savage cannibals, or so the science periodicals say. A strange hullabaloo granted but I urge you to point your pork pies at it and be utterly impressed. {www.orcasurf.co.uk/carve/news/news-landscape-altered.html}

PORTUGUESE WENCHING

LUCIA GRIGGI

touch it

on your phone

see it online

www.issuu.com

feel it

on sale at mid July magazine

spring fever we’ve got it!

Bright ideas New season Confessions

wish list Meet surf goddess

RosyHodge

surfgirlmag.com

I’ve mentioned before in this column the ladies quarterly periodical that goes by the title of SurfGirl. It is a magazine full of the nonsense that young gals like- the most fetching bonnets of the season, how to wear your whalebone in a fashionable manner, how to ditch the chaperone when courting and of course some ladies attempting surfing. Bless their little hearts. I’m still mystified where they get changed, as I’ve not seen any rolling bathing machines around recently. Anyhoose, some young fillies went to the wilds of Portugal (and didn’t bring me back any after dinner port!) for a tally-ho adventure and this is the resulting montage by the editor of this very periodical. {www.orcasurf.co.uk/surfgirl/2010/04/30/surfgirl-crew-video}

TWITS TWEET?

I’ve only gone and got myself a spiffy micro-blog.

It is known as Twitter.

Capital idea! Well. It’s a damn sight more savoury than the sausage-fest that is the despicable ChatRoulette page. I shall be sharing links to fillums and pages that I find most impressive along with the odd devilishly witty pun. Please follow me if it pleases you. Cads, bounders, rogues and web-bots need not apply! {www.twitter.com/victorianwebspy}

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stpraight u

Jayce Robinson and a whopping off season bomb in the land of the lefts.

Sodom and Gomorrah

A cautionary tale of what can happen when things go very, very wrong…

Words: Ben Mondy

Lightning cracked the black night sky. Rain streaked down like sheets of bullets, transported horizontally by a ferocious wind. Sails flapped and creaked in howling anger. The soundtrack of a demented porn film groaned at ear splitting volume through the speakers. I didn’t know much, but I knew that Indo boat trips weren’t supposed to be like this.

Surely they were supposed to be about perfect waves, sunny skies and cold beers at night anchored in safe natural harbours. Instead I had this, some type of floating Sodom and Gomorrah and a near death experience that was rapidly in danger of losing the near aspect.

And to think it had all started so well. An international surf brand had assembled a host of the world’s best surfers, including a couple of world champions, and rented a sloop to try and search for new waves in unchartered waters in Eastern Indonesia.

So far so good. I’d blagged a role in and amongst a media circus from a host of different magazines and for the first 10-days had dealt with a fairly prolonged flat spell with serious amounts of beer, loads of backgammon, some stupid haircuts and plenty of fishing. The pros on board were the usual mix – vain, lazy, funny and, for the most part, easy enough to get on with. There’d been a few issues with the boat – the “tinnies” or tender boats were about as reliable as a crack whore, and the crew, skippered by an Indonesian skipper, seemed to have a real fear of anything closely resembling a wave. Still, what I know about boats you could tattoo on a bee’s dick, so I wasn’t about to go all Christian Fletcher of the Bounty on anyone’s ass.

Just as I was thinking that although it wasn’t the trip of a lifetime, I had no cause for complaint and had definitely had worse paying gigs, when a deep, black storm front started rolling in from the distance, just on dark. By the time we hit it head on, perhaps sensing the impending doom, most of the pros and many of the media wankers like myself had started slamming the beers down. We’d, hiccup, ride out this storm drunk as hell. After all, what could go wrong?

Well the engine seizing was a pretty good start. It was a violent shuddering stop, and while I’m no maritime mechanic, there was a finality to the clunking sound that indicated something was well and truly wrong.

Most of us lumbered up on deck, to see what the problem was, only to be greeted with something out of a Patrick O’Brien Master and Commander novel. With the engine gone, and in way too deep water to cast anchor, we

“By the time we hit it head on, perhaps sensing the impending doom, most of the pros and many of the media wankers like myself had started slamming the beers down.”

44 carve surfing magazine

were being blown by the 40-knot storm winds. Unluckily, that just happened to be straight towards a five-mile stretch of jagged cliffs that were flanked by coral reef.

To their credit, most of the pros, simply shrugged their shoulders, ripped open another round of Bintangs and headed back downstairs to whatever fantasy was playing on the downstairs plasma screen. I, on the other hand, pieced together the random threads of large boat, sharp coral and stormy night and felt a deep internal terror, mainly centred around the rectum.

Luckily, the Aussie surf guide, who was an experienced skipper, took control. The decision was made to use the two tinnies, and their unreliable 8hp outboards, to tow us to safety. As good a plan as any I thought, reaching for another cold beer.

Heading back to my cabin I passed the raucous pros, who were now passing their time watching some hardcore porn. It was here that I found my cabin roomy, an esteemed USA surf magazine editor, who had taken a rather different approach. He had packed his passport, credit card and mobile phone into a ziplock bag and stashed them in a waterproof backpack. He’d also slipped into his springsuit and booties and was heading upstairs to make sure his biggest board was within easy reach.

Feeling somewhat underprepared, I looked for my favourite emergency situation brown underpants, and, failing to locate them, settled for at least putting on a slightly weather proof spray jacket.

The next eight hours were, to put it mildly, deeply unpleasant. Perhaps unwisely opting out of the beer and porn approach, myself and my rubbered up cabin mate, went and made ourselves useful. This involved affixing ourselves on the stern and shining a torch into the black ocean on a set compass direction. The poor bastards in the small boats out in front were at full throttle, trying to follow the torch light, in between avoiding crashing swells and the tow ropes, which were doing their best to garrote the two of them.

Finally, and miraculously, just us the last of the night and storm evaporated, we passed around the five miles of cliff, and chugged into a gloriously wide safe harbour. Bored, exhausted, dehydrated, hungover and damn euphoric, we had enough time to crack a morning beer, and congratulate ourselves.

Things were looking up, until the arrival of an Indonesian navy vessel.

Ten rather irate soldiers armed with semi-automatic machine guns, boarded our boat and seemed to be indicating we’d entered government military waters, illegally. Too tired to care, to angry to speak, I simply drained my can and slunk off to bed and fell to sleep dreaming of Indo boat trips, of perfect waves, sunny skies...

legends

Rory the Dog on a Bolt pintail at Pipe. Doesn’t get anymore iconic.

bolt from the blue Between charging Pipe Rory set off around the world exploring and spreading Aloha. If stories are to be believed he tore the joint apart in true 70s style. It was a non stop party! 70s Morocco.

46 carve surfing magazine

As

the wave jacks up, the semi drunks in the middle row start to hoot, and the stoners at the back stand up and start shouting at the screen. A man paddles, gracefully gets to his feet. As he takes the drop into a ferocious barrelling pit his red board gleams in the sunlight. A yellow lightning bolt emblazoned on the deck. The man reaches the bottom and nonchalantly,

and Rory Russell.

Return of the King

30 years on and some of the groms from the village hall now surf industry stalwarts, are at German boardsports trade show. But something weird was happening; they were running around like kids. They had stickers, they had autographs, and between them In the small village hall the salt encrusted groms they had bought shuffle nervously in front of the travelling cinema every board on the screen. Giant Hawaiian lines fill the screen: showcase stand windgroomed, deep blue and full of power they’re G49 as soon as marching with menace towards second reef Pipeline they had been as a prog rock soundtrack starts to wind up. unwrapped from their protective effortlessly, pulls into a barrel that is bigger than cardboard and bubble wrap. And the reason for this anything the assembled crowd has ever seen down schoolboy recession? Well amongst the mayhem their local, even at low tide when it was ‘just like stood a row of gleaming red pintails emblazoned Pipe’. The hall starts going mad and the place is a with a yellow lightning bolt, and in front of them crescendo of roaring whitewater, screaming guitar stood a legend. With unkempt brown air, the same riffs and hooting surfers. As the guy gets blown out moustache and the same mischievous grin as we of the impossible barrel and into the channel – the had all seen on the big screen in the village hall: Rory place erupts.

Russell was back.

This is the 70s and let me tell you, it was way If at this point you are saying ‘who’, let me cooler than the 80s. Films like Five Summer Stories, enlighten you. Rory moved to Hawaii with his Playgrounds in Paradise and Freeride toured small family in 1964 and lived on Oahu’s famous North halls and brought crews of locals and holiday makers Shore for 38 years. He won several world class together for their surfing fix in glorious Technicolor. comps, including two Pipe masters, the Waimea It was a time when surfers were long haired Pro in Brazil, and the Oahu North Shore Lightning bohemian dream chasers, social outcasts and Bolt Surf Championships. Aside from his contest generally not the type one would let ones daughter achievements, Rory co-starred in many of the surf hang out with. The decade saw cutting edge surfing films of the day and could often be found discussing at Pipe, and the birth of professional surfing, and two or promoting the sport on TV. He was irrepressibly surfers who truly epitomised 70s cool. The fathers of funny too, basically a non stop bag of entertainment. a thousand soul arches meticulously copied in two He even taught Bill Murray to surf while in Indo. foot slop after the village hall surf night; Gerry Lopez Anyway, much better to let the man himself fill you in.

He was going to anyway…

“In 1964 I turned 11 years old on the voyage over from the US and I really didn’t want to come to Hawaii, I wanted to stay on ‘the mainland’ and play baseball,” he says. “Well, a couple of weeks after we got here the family went to Barber’s Military Recreation Beach. My dad rented a board for us and, when the first wall of white water caught me, I stood up and rode it all the way to the beach. That was it!

As a grom I was relegated to riding my first Pipeline waves on my sister’s 9' Hobie clunker, which I did on small sloppy days: but this was Pipeline! I spent night after night falling asleep thinking, then dreaming about sliding down the face of a Pipeline Monster like Jock Sutherland on the cover of the first surf magazine I ever bought.

That Christmas, Santa brought me the unthinkable. Underneath the Christmas tree, with one piece of wrapping paper around the middle, was the 9’ Phil Edwards. Wohh! And yes: I did slide down the face of a Pipeline wave. Not a monster, mind you, and not like Jock Sutherland, but like Rory Russell.

“In the early 70s surfing was frowned upon. The beach was considered a place for kids and students, if you were over the age of 18 you were meant to be either in a proper job or in the military. Surfers were bums, outcasts. But as the decade progressed so did surfing. A few people saw the potential and started holding contests and, as far as I was concerned, having contests for money in my backyard was just fine with me.

“That was about the same time when Gerry [Lopez] figured out exactly what would fit into the curve of the sucking out face of the wave at Pipe yet still be able to hold its edge and make long drawn out turns when needed. So, we were really opening up and exploring what we could do and how deep in the tube we could get on these boards, the Lightning Bolt became synonymous with Pipeline. It became iconic.

“They were good times. I really wanted to go on tour, but I only did 1976-78, and only in the Hawaii and Australian contests. I managed 5th twice and 12th though, without even going to the other contests. I always did really well in small waves, but I was busy doing other stuff. We came up with a marketing plan for Lightning Bolt and decided

that charting the life and adventures of Rory and “Team Bolt” was more advantageous than me doing The Tour. So I blazing around the planet exploring unchartered, unsurfed waves, meeting new people and sharing the Aloha. I’ve been blessed, that’s for sure. I had a great time!

“I’ve always loved the spirituality surfing brings. It’s easy to tell who’s surfing for the spiritual aspects, and who wants the fame and fortune. The latter usually never succeed. But the ones that are spiritual and talented, like Kelly and Andy, will always shine and be rewarded. To me the act of surfing is a very spiritual experience. Paddling out at 10’-12’ inside Pipe on a low tide and rising swell, it’s just you and God baby!”

Below: Rory taking the Pipe Masters. Lopez and the Dog dominated the place in style.

That Christmas, Santa brought me the unthinkable.

Underneath the Christmas tree, with one piece of wrapping paper around the middle, was the 9’ Phil Edwards.

Wohh! And yes: I did slide down the face of a Pipeline wave.

left: The irrepressible, and incorrigible Dog. One of the LB story board ads from Surfer magazine. Readers actually couldn’t wait to see the next installment.

Clean cut and conventional to sell boards to the US market.

48 carve surfing magazine

Win

as hort See bre ak! the we Ca

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alive and kicking For me,

tow surfing is a blessing and a curse. I love how we can ride waves that were previously impossible or inaccessible. I love the way the definition of ‘big’ has changed so much. I love how a good tow board lets you do real turns on serious waves.

I also love the fact that providing your driver knows his game and you’ve got good kit, it can actually be quite easy. I don’t mean to belittle the achievements of Mennie, Cotton, Lowe, Smith et al, but I’m sure that if you pushed these guys they’d admit that when things go well this assisted surfing lark can be deceptively simple. And therein lies the curse.

Tow surfing can work so well that incredible waves can be ridden without incident, which of course obscures the reality of the situation. Big waves are always dangerous, often even life threatening. So everything is hunky dory but when shit goes down it happens really quickly, like the flick of a switch. Good to bad in an instant. And you’d better be ready, because it will happen to you sometime, like it or not.

Each year the Canaries scores a

B r i t s R o b a r e l e a d i n c h a r g e i n i t a l l w e n

S m a l l a n d J o g t h e bi g w a L a n z a , b u t o t h o r r ib l y w

f O w e n v e n e d a y r o n g !

By Rob Small

brace of perfect big-wave days, and this was one of them. Clear blue skies, the slightest hint of an offshore wind and a clean west swell. In these latitudes the west swells are often ‘the ones’. Not always the biggest but they come fast and powerful – long period pulses that deliver great waves but make you pay for your fun by dealing out beatings if you make mistakes.

The waves on this particular day were not huge but you definitely didn’t want to be paddling. It was a solid 15 feet with bigger bombs breaking on the outside reef at La Santa Point. The conditions were perfect for towing so we made the call to meet at the Ghost Town boat ramp and get out there ASAP. There’s a bunch of us that have gelled into a tight little tow gang, one with

lots of collective experience. Gonzaque Mercier and Sven Grossenbacher are long-time Lanzerote residents and both have their place in the line-up. Gonzaque is partners in the Sefon Board shop in La Santa. Sven is a perennial member of the Swiss Surf Team, and he was Gary Elkerton’s tow partner before the Aussie decamped home. That just leaves yours truly and my partner for the session, Jof Owen.

Ghost Town has its own big wave, a quality peak that rears up out in the bay. Today it looked just the ticket for a warm-up. With the tide filling, the big slopey peak was the ideal place to settle our jittery nerves and get into a rhythm. All four of us got some waves, starting with a few shoulder hops and then working deeper. An hour passed without incident

vince cooke

above: Newquay ex pat Jof Owen at maxing La Santa right. left: After a kilometer pretty much underwater Rob prepares to get run over by his own jet ski!

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vince cooke

and after a quick snack break we checked over the kit again and headed out down the coast to La Santa.

The waves coming into the bay at La Santa were quite a sight. Glassy smooth, deep blue right-handers were feeling the bottom out in the deep water then fanning down the point like the bastard love child of Sunset Beach and Lennox Head. After watching a handful of sets go through, Jof and I headed out the back to try and hunt down a peak while Sven and Gonzaque opted for the cautious but more sensible approach of working their way out from lower down the wave to the outside.

Jof and I quickly ran into problems.

The PWC wasn’t running great and I was a bit off in my timing. This coupled with me not being able to understand Jof’s frantic instructions from the end of the rope resulted in another classic tow surfing

situation – the shouting match. You’re in a high-pressure environment anyway so when the mix gets fired up with frustration and tension it can blow up into a full blown hissy fit in an instant. Anyhow, Jof and I are too old to let a little hair pulling and face scratching get in the way of some good surfing, so after a bit of a tinker with the PWC and a make-up hug were back on it.

The Belgian-Swiss team was making good progress and I’d already seen Gonzi put Sven into a wave that was so smooth you could see their reflections in the face.

With visions of a Eurovision style ‘nil point’ for the UK boys, I flicked Jof into a couple of medium ones before chasing down some set waves. I managed to get him into some bigger bombs. One in particular stands out. It was a set and putting him in I knew it’d stand up through the west bowl so I tried to give him a good bit of speed to

get him through okay. Looking back as he let go of the rope I saw the peak pitch into a tube the size of a bus, and as it unloaded the explosion of white foam dwarfed the skinny blond man from Newquay. As Joff dropped down the face I attempted to steer the PWC onto the shoulder but almost fell off as I couldn’t get my eyes off the cavern behind him. We motored back out towards the peak just in time to see Sven ride what was probably the biggest wave ever ridden at La Santa Point. Not as hollow as Jof’s but definitely taller. I reckon Sven holds the record for the biggest paddle wave out there too. So that’s a double. To Switzerland...

After one more for Jof, we swapped over. I was amping to get a few my self after seeing the boys ride some truly fantastic waves. Jof whipped me into a medium-sized one and I came off the

bottom at what felt like 100mph. I have to say I’ve got a magic tow board. I just had to look 50-yards down the line, lean on the rail and I was there.

In an instant we were out the back again, and with a big set approaching I shouted to Jof to position me a bit deeper this time. Tracking in I saw that the set was going to swing wide, and as we started the final approach I knew we were too deep. I also caught a glimpse of the other bigger waves behind.

As Jof peeled off, the only option I had was to let go of the rope and go.

Perversely I felt a jolt of something almost like joy as I started to drop into this big blue beast that was threatening to eat me whole. Coming around the bottom the wall seemed to extend all the way to the village and I could feel the presence of the lip above, waiting to fall like the executioner’s

carve surfing magazine 51

“ F j u t h ki

* * K ! ’ I t m p o f f , r a s h i n g l l e d b y

axe. I straightened out got a little ground and just got my back foot out of the strap before the hit came.

The first impact was horrendous.

Luckily I penetrated and didn’t go up and over or get skipped like a skimming stone in front of the foam. The flipside of this was that I went down so deep that it was pitch black and I had to wait for my impact vest to right me as I had no way of telling which way was up.

When I reached the surface I had to push about six inches of foam out of the way so I could take a breath. As I got a couple of deep, wonderful lungfuls I saw Gonzi pulling Sven into the next wave and I realised that the next wave was going to break in front of me. I couldn’t dive with the vest on so I just ducked my head under and it smashed into me.

This wave was much, much worse that the first. It threw me around so much it’s a wonder nothing popped out of its socket. I was under for a long time...I started to get the little clicks you get in the back of your throat when you’re free diving or spear fishing. I was just about over it when I finally saw the blue turn to white and got my fill of clean, life sustaining Canarian air. This time I’d travelled a long way underwater, but even though I’d escaped any vicious impacts I could see wall after wall of relentless whitewater bearing down on me.

I was already tired and when I saw

h o u g h t ‘ I ’ v e s u , n o w I ’ t h e b l o

a s I s a w h i m r v i v e d t h e m g o i n g t o o d y s ki ! ”

Jof coming in for the pick-up, relief flooded through me. But as he got closer I saw he was coming in too fast. There was no way I could get on the mat. With the next wave bearing down, it was, ‘Oh shit, here we go again!’ Several more waves rolled me, each one coming in quick succession after I’d come up from the last one. Worried I was going to end up in The Slab kill-zone (a maelstrom of rock, foam and almost certain death in the middle of the bay) I feebly tried to swim towards the point and the safety area in front of the car park. Again Jof came in for a pickup and this time I got hold of the grab handle...but Joff opted to gun it for the outside instead of heading further inside and I didn’t have the strength to hold on at that speed. Letting go, I watched him charge straight at a solid wall of whitewater at full throttle. He made it over, but the PWC flooded and stalled. Unable to start it, he had no option but to bail as the next wall of whitewater marched through. ‘F**K!’ I thought as I saw him jump off, ‘I’ve survived the thrashing, now I’m going to killed by the bloody ski!’

Luckily the abandoned PWC didn’t hit either of us, and even more fortunately it was pushed away from the rocks and into the calm water inside. Now both swimming, Jof and I slowly beat the rip and got into the safety of the shallows. At this point two local guys jumped in to help us, one with fins and the other with his

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julie small

julie small

Ghost Town bombie doing it’s thing.

vince cooke

board. I’ve never been rescued in my life but to see these guys coming out was an enormous boost. I gratefully accepted a lift on the back of the board paddler, as I was almost completely spent and my body was now functioning solely on adrenaline.

Thankfully Jof’s PWC wasn’t ruined.

A handlebar had snapped, possibly from hitting the bottom or the sled, but it started okay this time. So while I crawled ashore like some primeval amphibian taking its first terrestrial slitherings, he had the difficult and dangerous task of getting back out through the waves and round to the boat ramp with a broken handlebar. He and Sven buddied up and somehow they made it out after a couple of attempts.

Gonzaque retrieved the boards we’d lost; miraculously neither had suffered too much damage. My wife Julie, who’d had

to endure watching the whole drama from the shore, came to pick us up and drove us back to the ramp to help get the PWCs out. Never before has the passenger seat of a car felt so comfortable!

So in the end everything was okay. Some waves had been ridden... in fact some incredible waves had been ridden, and ridden well. There was minor equipment damage but nothing too serious, and nobody was injured. However we could have done better, been more prepared, been tighter on the driving and pick-ups, and made more appropriate decisions. There’s always something to learn, always improvements in technique to be made. On this occasion I was the surfer at the sharp end when things went wrong, and it resulted in the five most intense minutes of my surfing career!

vince cooke

Smally lining up a big blue wall La Santa.

Smally glad to be back on land!

{ R o a d T r i p p i n g T h r o u g h P o rt u g a l } Words and Photos Will Bailey

The Team:

Shaun ‘Skippy’ Skilton

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Spencer Hargraves

Luke Dillon

Kinda like the opening scene in Reservoir Dogs but with shorts and flippy floppys‌

Aaron Reid

Nathan Phillips

The Mission: To hit Portugal, hard!

carve surfing magazine 57

Skippy about to use the swinging arm counterbalance to reset his line in a sweet Pork N Cheese barrel.

“Luke and Aaron were ripping, Skippy was flying around on his little 5’4”, and Nate was looking like he’d been enjoying the winter back home in the valleys. ” 58 carve surfing magazine

S

eeing as the U.K was suffering a long flat spell, 10 days in the Algarve with the boys was exactly what the doctor ordered, I’m not sure if 10 days of mayhem was on the prescription though!

Spence, Skip, Nate and I flew into the Algarve to get a few waves before making the drive up to Peniche to pick up Aaron and Luke who had been competing in the Euro Juniors. Stage two of the plan was to drive back down the coast over the week in the hope of scoring some of Portugal’s finest waves along the way. The forecast was looking good, the sun was out, Skip has his shorts on and we were ready to roll!

We arrived in Sagres the first night and checked the surf, it was howling onshore and flat, not want you want to see! It was getting late so we decided to get a room and hit the town for a feed and some beers. We found a quaint little restaurant near the harbour and the owner was parading around showing off a tray with a massive bass on it, he took a bunch of orders from us for the beast and then served us a whole bass about an eighth of the size the twat!

Skip was demanding doubles at the bar, the singles were like a triple with a dash in the top for a touch of colour as it was. Nate had that grin he gets, a bit like a serial killer, lips up teeth down, he’d sit there winding me up, pulling my strings until I bit, then he’d laugh and move onto his next victim. The next day I awoke to the sound of Spence trying to persuade Skip to put a little skirt on and get in his bed. Those two have way too much in common.

Driving to Peniche wasn’t much fun, it’s a good four hour drive so we set off in hope of getting a surf late afternoon. We flew up the motorway, watching the landscape turn greener and Skip, Nate and Spence’s faces turn redder.

We got there and found Aaron and Luke, the surf was two foot and howling onshore again, the grom’s were straight in, but the rest of the boys weren’t that enthusiastic and wanted to get a hotel sorted. Within five minutes of checking into the hotel Spence had accidentally walked through a sliding patio door, Nate had knocked the handle off a door and Skip was politely asked to leave the hotel bar…

The morning delivered offshore winds and we scored a good little beach just up from Peniche. All the boys were frothing as it was the first surf we had together. Luke and Aaron were ripping, Skippy was flying around on his little 5’4”, and Nate was looking like he’d been enjoying the winter back home in the valleys. It wasn’t the best surf but with 3mm’s and 32˚ degree water we were all in high spirits.

That evening Spencer took us to one of his old haunts, a wicked little fish restaurant on the harbour. The owner of the establishment looked exactly like Russ Winter, which I think he may have grasped by the end, as Skippy must have told him about 30 times.

Credit to Spenny, the food was amazing, the restaurant enhancing Portugal’s solid rep as one of the best places to eat fish in the world. A typically entertaining evening unravelled, the jovial atmosphere bolstered by Spencer and his old restaurant friend in a way that only those who know Spencer would understand. For those of you who never met Spencer he’s larger than life and leaves a lasting impression. Everywhere we’d go the locals would greet him like an old friend, shop owners, barmen, people on the street,

Nate making use of every available inch of car parking space.

The crew were checking out the local birds.

carve surfing magazine 59

“Luke adapted well sticking a few sick airs considering how hard the wave was to surf, fat one second and sucking up closing out the next.

He had it wired though, big floaters and busting airs onto the flats.”

everyone knows him everywhere you go. The night ended up with one person crying in the police station, one sleeping in the middle of a road, one spewing on a table in the restaurant and three fights among us.

The next day we were back on the road heading south, the swell was looking up and the winds favourable for the Ericeira area.

We stopped off for a bit of brekkie at a service station, toasta mistas (ham n cheese toasty, Ed) all round. Skip was minding his business outside and bird managed to shit on his white shorts, he was hopping around like he’d been shot, everything he does gets the boys laughing, and there wasn’t a bird anywhere to be seen in the sky!

We stopped off and surfed another beach break along the way that had a super fun shorebreak giving ramps for the boys to boost. Luke adapted well sticking a few sick airs considering how hard the wave was to surf, fat one second and sucking up closing out the next. He had it wired though, big floaters and busting airs onto the flats.

I was in France with Luke last summer, since then his surfing has matured enormously. He’s only 15 but surfs like he means business, speed and power, he’s not afraid of the bigger stuff either.

I missed his best two waves (typically) both were big heavy barrels. One a solid, heavy backhand pig-dog, he disappeared for a good four seconds and came flying out with perfect style. I was faffing around sorting out my gear, needless to say I haven’t heard the end of it since, sorry Luke!

We finally got to Ericeira, checked into an apartment, did a big food shop, had a few Bocks (the local beer) and fired up the BBQ. Super Bock is a bit like Stella it creeps up on you and before you know it you’re abusing each other, finding any weakness one of the boys has and then everyone gangs up on them. Most of it was aimed the cellulite that’s appeared around Nate’s waist, Spence would get it for looking like he’s carrying a child, I’d get it for my man boobs and Skip would get it for looking like Spence. I thought Luke and Aaron would be a bit intimidated by Nom nom nom. the level of abuse but they gave better than they got. Luke’s a quiet lad, just sort of sits there absorbing it all, the next day you’ll find out he’s recording it all.

We were up early the next day but we were greeted with perfect 4-5ft conditions. Nate was

‘Tell me again why I have to go an stand in a field like a frickin idiot’- Nate.

Reidie is a demon in frontside barrels, not surprising as his local is one of the best lefts in Europe when it’s on, nice for him to get pitted without savage rocks lurking inches underneath.

Nate throws chunks like few other surfers in Europe. The word ‘powerhouse’ is fitting.

62 carve surfing magazine

the first one in; destroying a few waves on his forehand before the grom’s even put their suits on. The set up was perfect, a heavy hollow take off and then a smashable long wall. Nate had three identical waves in a row, barrelled on take off and then a massive air off the end section. He’s pretty easy to work with as a photographer; he seems to know what you want and gets the job done. For a big bloke his airs are sharp, always plenty of height together with a photogenic style.

Aaron surfs a bit like Nath, they both have a similar style, and can mix up airs and power turns. His home break is Pmpa in Bundoran so he was right at home on the heavy fast lefts. He launched one air that was massive that morning, I was straining my neck to keep track. He’s always looks in control and solid on his board and really impressive to watch. Being the chilled out Irishman that he is, when he was up at the Euro’s he managed to leave his passport on a coach. Fortunately some lady picked it up but we were having trouble tracking her down. Hundreds of phone calls later, still no passport, Aaron didn’t seem that bothered though, he’d sort of sit there and wait for you to tell him what to do, then forget about it until the next day. I’m writing this on the last night and it still isn’t sorted so he’s probably still down there.

By midday the wind normally swings onshore. It was absolutely boiling so in the afternoons we’d normally relax at the apartment. Luke would sleep. I don’t know anyone who sleeps as much as him. Nate would set up his deck chair and get some bronzing done, Aaron would read his porn mag, Skip would find some task to attend to and Spence would be on the phone. We’d fester until about six p.m and then get the evening

Homoerotic mood shot.

Luke Dillon and a flawless blank canvas.

carve surfing magazine 63

Spenny going for a big ol’ drop wallet hack, you can bet the spray hit photog Will like a hail of bullets.

glass off. I didn’t see one cloud on the whole trip, I could get used to weather like that.

The local town is a delight, a small fishing village riddled with narrow cobbled streets packed with bars and restaurants. The norm on any surf trip is to find a dark dingy bar nestled away in the corner of the town, somewhere you can hide from the sun that reminds you of home. Nate and Skip like homing pigeons flew straight into one and had us singing songs and smoking rollies with the local fishermen within the hour. Later that night Spence fell asleep in the corner, I gave him a good slap and as he jumped up, he knocked the table over.

The next day we surfed a slabby right that was basically dry.

Skip was loving it, he had a few bombs, he’d take off behind the peak, stand tall and get barrelled off his nut. He has some serious style and had no problem risking his skin for my shots, but he ending up snapping his board into three bits and getting rolled up the reef. Good boy Skip!

Aaron and Luke were also out on the right, they had no problems with the bare reef either, they both had a few drainers. Lord Spence was also out, laying the law and keeping the order. Nate was out on the left getting tubed and doing airs. The Portuguese life is tricky you know!

Back at the pad later that day we decided that Aaron was a bit like Dougal off Father

64 carve surfing magazine

Ted. He’s sort of in his own world and super chilled out. He was prancing around the apartment with a Penthouse magazine and locking himself in the toilet on a regular basis.

Spence would stand outside the door and ask, ‘What you doing, hurry up, you nearly there yet?’ How he managed to keep his attention on the task at hand is beyond me.

Skip also received a nickname, ‘Father Jack!’

The next day we headed back down to Sagres. There was still plenty of swell and the boys were keen for some beach action. I think Nate wanted to do some more bronzing, and Skip was keen for a bit of down time on the beach as well. Aaron and Luke were still frothing to surf. We stayed in Lagos for a few nights and surfed Sagres and Tordorormo. We’d been surfing four times a day all week but the boys still had the energy for a few more dawnies. The waves were really good, 3ft, punchy and the water colour was pure turquoise.

Spence had to bail the Bock tour to hook up with four times world surfing champ MR in London. Leaving the boys to fend for themselves. I thought things would fall to bits, we needed him there to organise Luke and Aaron and for kicking Nate and Skippy into gear. For an old man he has some serious energy, he lives the dream, he creates the dream, he is the dream, the dream maker. Throw a shaka, blow it, and shake it, that’s how he rolls! We missed him dearly, he was the heart and soul of the tour, but we livened

“Throw a shaka, blow it, and shake it, that’s how he rolls! We missed him dearly, he was the heart and soul of the tour but we livened up

and Bocked without the hurricane.

A tasty peak somewhere in the land of the tosta miste.

Ouchy stones and feet that have been in booties all winter don’t mix.

Something tells us they know those coals ain’t got the oompf to cook those chunks of flesh. Burned BBQ meat- good, raw BBQ sushi- not good.

carve surfing magazine 65

up and Bocked without the hurricane.

The day Spence left was my birthday, we were all worn out from the driving and surfing so we weren’t in any mood to celebrate. Staying in Lagos we decided to get a bit of food and have a wander before crashing out. Within five minutes of walking into the town we were whisked into a club and I was doing shots off a flaming bar and getting hit around the head with a cricket bat. Lagos is a cool little town with a massive nightlife. Marlon Lipke was out, him and Skip were having a right good groove on the dance floor and yes Skip can actually dance. I ended up getting kicked in the nuts and chinned by a bouncer, and Skip had a bin

66 carve surfing magazine

bag wrapped around his head. Skippy made me laugh so hard the next morning I could barely breathe; he is a small man with a massive heart.

It was the last day and after the week’s antics and the team manager missing we were all feeling a bit worn out. The dream was dead! Bock off, the dream is never dead! Skippy decided he wanted to cool off in the fountain in the middle of town. It was packed full of tourists, old pork and cheese fishermen talking about their days catch, and there he was floating on his back doing the full dad swim, fully clothed, with his head popping out of the water like a little Cornish otter, that’s when we realised the dream is never dead… Bock on!

Old fisho dudes don’t impress young Mr Dillon. No matter how big the catch.

Skippy decided he wanted to cool off in the fountain in the middle of town …fully clothed, with his head popping out of the water like a little Cornish otter, that’s when we realised the dream is never dead…

Bock on!

He may have an industry job but Spenny’s still working on the guns.

Luke with perfect positioning for ye olde float. A move which is as functional as it is fun.

Portugal is worth your time, good waves, nice weather, awesome seafood and the best toasties around.

carve surfing magazine 67

MICK'S TAPE…

Our favourite photog is taking a month off from his regular Focus gig so here's a brace of shots that are just begging to be used from Mickatron's bulging back catalogue of Irish gold. Truth be told we could'fill a couple of magazines such is the phenomenal output from Mr Smith and friends but these are the ones that we're digging right now.…

This is Walshy, the very same chap that shot one of the GO spreads up the front in this issue. Told you he’d put some time in with the crew in Clare.

You don’t get a whip in to a Rileys boomer like this unless you’ve done the hard yards and have nuts of the large kind. The consequences of fluffing it don’t bare thinking about. Interesting to see if he’ll be fish-eyeing this next time he’s back over!

No idea where this is; apart from Ireland obviously. Which is nice. There are plenty of waves still out there. Looks idyllic but that second section does look like it might get a bit hectic!

A simple shot, Ferg, his pinny and that oh so abundant Irish sunshine which everyone insists they don’t get. Yeah. It’s rainy in Ireland all the time. Uhhuh. We believe you. It’s all Photoshop and green screens see.

A rare angle of the Rileys real estate. Amazing how an unassuming slab of barely submerged rock can become home to a veritable cottage industry of surf media production. The wave should be called ‘Mick’s Studio’ to be honest. This is Ferg setting his line into the gutter.

Walshy again and a sky that looks like it’s been painted by an old master.

Shooting airs from behind is as tricky as grabbing hold of a greased pig.

You can’t see diddly-squat, then ‘boom’ the surfers in the air, you’ve got to compose, focus and nail the shot in a millisecond, assuming you were tracking the right bit to start with.

carve surfing magazine 71

Fergal Smith deep and happy. Just so you know your mind will be blown with what Mickatron and Ferg are working on at the moment. We’ve got the first trial shots through which are insane enough but are saving them for another issue. Suffice to say they are doing stuff that no one else in Europe is doing successfully yet. Enjoy your eyes while you can because they will melt when you see the next phase of project Smith.

The great retro movement is dead. What sprung up as an underground anti shortboard revolution has been well and truly swallowed whole by the masses, infiltrated shortboard design and even ended up a big scene on the high street. Retro is sooo commercial now, the past has been packaged up by the mainstream and resold as the latest thing.

Surfing is better for it though. Nowadays surfers can and do ride anything. Hot young kids throw around retro influenced fish crossovers, then jump on an old 80’s twinny, pull out a keel fin fishes, or jump on a mal when it’s small. Mal addicts have come the other way. Pulled down in length by the gleaming resin tints and foam laden classic shapes from the 60’s and 70’s they have refound the joy of shorter sticks. As a result the barriers between shortboards, retroheads and a longboarders have become a hazy blurr.

Haryley Ingleby is a classic example. The current ASP World Longboard champ grew up looking up to shortboarders, discovered the fun of riding mals, but on any given day can be found riding just about anything he can find. He’s not as famous as Slater, but he rips on a diverse range of equipement. You can check him out on page 78.

Our younger generation of ‘longboarders’ are no different. They are all now making big strides on the Europe and World longboarding tours, but to pigeonhole

them as ‘longboarders’ would be to do them an injustice.

It’s just one facet of the art of waveriding in which they excel. They just live to ride. As proved in this examination of thier quivers from page 82.

Likewise Jools Mathews is a man possessed. He loves fish, mals and everything in between. In between surfing, shaping, surfing, sanding, surfing and running Gulf Stream surfboards in Croyde he rang us up to tell us he wanted to write about his obsession. We said ok. Then he went surfing. Eventually he ran out of energy and sat down and wrote. So here it is. (p84) In between you will find a while range of beautiful boards to savour. There are details of how they ride, and where to find them. Retro is dead, long live retro. Enjoy!

shieldsy

Dane Pioli floats his log at snapper.

the other world champ

Text and Photos: Moonwalker

Harley taking a progressive approach to longboarding. He’s one of new breed of complete surfer comfortable on all manner of equipment.

Harley Ingleby is he 2009 ASP World Longboard Tour champion, but chances are you may not have heard of him. He has no multi million dollar sponsorship, no super star ex girlfriends, no drug habit, no arrest warrants and has never been pulled over by customs having his boards broken into bits for a narcotics search. If only for these facts alone it’s a pretty safe bet that at this juncture of his life, he’s never going to be offered a tell-all, explosive book deal; ala Slater, Rabbit, Occy or MP. But Harley simply surfs, and surfs extremely well – he’s not a boring person, but while his compatriots in the shortboard scene are on talk shows, tv game shows and advertising this, that and the other he’s happy to just go surf.

Harley hails from a tiny beachside town just north of Coffs Harbour on the Australian New South Wales North Coast. An area of the world where coastal communities are

scattered like shells on the sand and small town values are held in high esteem.

While he’s unarguably a gifted longboard surfer it’s interesting to note that the current ASP World Longboard Champion spends the majority of his water time riding quad shortboard fishes; “incredibly fast and loose” he says of them. Surfing longboards was initially a social event with his father and friends.

“My initial influence for everything has been my dad” smiles Harley warmly, “Longboarding was there from the start, my first three boards were longboards but with my dad having such a large board collection I was very fortunate to have all types of boards surrounding me from a young age. I was able to try all sorts and it was great to be able to ride single fins to begin with, that really helped smooth my style out. In my

carve surfing magazine 77

Upside down on a fish (above), a cool ten on a log, and walking the wire.

Man’s definitely got balance!

78 carve surfing magazine

A nice carving cutty on his fish.

mid-teen years I was still competing in both long and shortboard competitions. As I became more exposed to the international surfing world I’d have to say the surfing of Kelly Slater, Rob Machado and the guys in that era most caught my eye. All the early Taylor Steele movies and Justin Gain’s movie Pulse; I used to watch those non-stop.

But when I went away with my family and friends to the longboard events I found myself really enjoying both the competitive and social sides – everything for me grew from that, it wasn’t really a conscious decision to be a longboard champion, that’s just how it panned out.”

When not around contests Harley has no specific board agenda, “I ride whatever board to suit the conditions, I don’t ride the same thing all the time. It’s always fun trying new boards and new improvements I’ve been working on with my shaper Billy Tolhurst. But riding retro boards (‘70s to early ‘80s shapes – encompassing single, twin and twinzer fin setups) really makes you learn to tap into the waves power and to surf off a rail - whereas some of the kids these days just jump straight onto a wafer thin thruster and are surfing really flat off their fins, simply because they have a good fin setup to push off from. Riding retro boards is a good base to learn how to turn a board properly and learn how boards work.” He has a very valid point, to put it a little more into perspective; Formula One drivers don’t jump into an F1 racing car right at the start of their driving careers do they?

His boards are honed to the nth degree, Harley explains; “My high performance longboard’s are 9’1” x a fraction under 22” wide x 2 ¾” thick x 17” nose, a pretty standard bottom shape, fairly flat under the nose, no radical concaves or anything, maybe a subtle vee or double concave then flattening out in the back of the board and a nice, even rocker. For my shortboards I like riding 5’11”’s quads, and again no crazy bottoms, just subtle and simple curves. 90% of the time I’m riding quad shortboards, I love them, I find they have less resistance and more hold, they’re a lot quicker on the face and hold speed through turns better. Having those two fins on the outside rail means you can ride short, wide boards in really hollow sections and they still hold in.”

Contemporary surfers Harley looks up too include . . .“Dane Reynolds, Jordy Smith, those guys have taken surfing to a whole ‘nother level. It’s been a while since surfing has taken a noticeable step up. And those guys have done it in the past 12 to 24 months. On the longboard scene there’s so many, but Bonga, Ned Snow, fellow Aussie Jarryd Neal, Antoine Delpero and Ben Skinner all standout. Such a variety of talent, personalities and style – that’s what makes the longboard scene so interesting I reckon.”

“High performance is where it’s at for me, I don’t like riding my longboard when it’s small. From head high to double overhead are optimum conditions for HP [high performance] longboards to start performing really well, I mean you have such a long board you need a bit of room for solid turns. On really hollow days HP longboards are so much fun, especially in peaky beachbreaks. It’s easier to get into the wave at the right angle, to be in the right spot and to get into the waves far earlier than on a shortboard.”

“I think with the way the whole retro surf deal has become more mainstream over the past few years I really believe it’s helping to blur the lines between longboarding and shortboarding. A surfer is a surfer, no matter what type of board they ride, that’s the bottom line. I really do believe that the longboarding culture is moving forward, once more corporate companies start getting involved, and now with some surf events being televised live, things are only going to get better for surfing and longboarding.”

Harley’s future is sure to be big and his vision is bold.

“My hunger is still there to win consecutive world titles, I’m ready to see how far I can take this. In short I want to win more titles and see more of the world.” Not a bad goal for a lad from a small coastal town and has already come so far at the ripe old age of 26.

Harley’s tips for better surfing are quite simple “You have to be enjoying your surfing, if you’re not enjoying it, you won’t improve. You have to surf as much as you’re able. Having a fun board for all conditions will increase you water time. Also ride different boards. They all have different characteristics and getting them dialed will not only open your mind to which designs you like but will improve you surfing overall. Get to know your boards well.

Don’t chop and change, really feel them out. And finally, most importantly build up a relationship with a shaper who’s boards you really like and get on well with. Working with a shaper who knows your style will ensure you surf better, guaranteed.

carve surfing magazine 79

jacob cockle

Thomas Bexon 9'6" This board is another 9'6" shaped by Thomas Bexon from Noosa Australia, it is my good friends board Alex White. He keeps it at my house for when he comes to the UK, so I am kind of baby sitting it for him, but it’s another amazing noserider.

Rob Wright 9'6" Noserider The slide65 board is shaped by my boss from Towans Timber Frames Rob Wright.

He has only shaped a handful of boards and this one is a 9'6" Noserider. I just use this when it is small long walls where you can camp on the nose. I feel it is good to have a good noserider in your boards to work on your footwork and style.

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Bilbo This board is such a classic board to ride, I won the 60’s style masters on this board. It is a really heavy board so quite hard to manouvere but on the nose it powers through sections you thought you would never make. I love riding old boards it opens your mind to different styles of surfing.

Sennen, Cornwall James is shortboarder turned longboarder and fast heading up the European Longboard Tour ranks. He has a reputation for being one of the most stylish longboarders in Europe. When he's home James will ride anything from alaia’s, old shortboards to full on noseriders. He’s a stylemaster and all round ripper.

Skindog surfboards These three Skindog surfboards are the best boards I have ever had! Designed by Ben Skinner, shaped by Chris Harris and glassed by Jason Grey. They are my day to day boards and surf amazing in all conditions. My surfing has progressed through riding these boards and recommend them to everyone.

My Alaia This was hand shaped by Tom Wegener and he didn’t use any power tools for this board it is 6'4". I love riding these boards it is such an amazing sensation sliding on waves with a wooden board and no fins with way more speed than you can get out of any normal board.

5'7"Bob McTavish This is my favourite board of all time a 5'7" twin fin shaped

by Bob McTavish in 1980.

I picked this board up in Australia a couple of years ago. I can get in the water with this board and know that I will have a fun surf every time. It surfs so loose and smooth.

This board is a 6'6" single fin I don’t get this board in the water as much as I would like to. It is good when the waves are big and fat because it has a lot of volume in it and really draws out your turns making them smooth and flowing.

Fact.”

“Both Tom Curren and Kelly Slater learnt to surf on twin fins, any footage of them surfing will show you clearly how much they use their rails.

Better than anyone else.

Taking advice from anyone can be tough, let alone your Grandmother.

So as a child when my Gran repeatedly said to me “you should try to learn something new every day” I didn’t appreciate what she meant. However, after a lifetime spent surfing and shaping I can tell you she was onto something.

We all have to learn to surf to be able to call ourselves ‘surfers’ of course. However, once you are past the basics, it is just as important (perhaps more so) to maintain the pace of learning. Why? Because by continuing to learn you will realise that you are getting better all of the time and that will encourage you to surf more often.

For experienced surfers one of the best ways to achieve more growth in your surfing is to ride different boards. So one way a shortboarder, for example, can benefit from riding a by jools mathews fish is that a fish has no middle fin. By removing your trailing fin a fish will teach you to use your rails much more effectively. Both Tom Curren and Kelly Slater learnt to surf on twin fins, any footage of them surfing will show you clearly how much they use their rails. Better than anyone else. Fact.

But it’s not just experienced surfers can learn from riding a fish/ retro board. By adjusting the dimensions to suit your own ability everyone can enjoy the benefits of extra speed and easy paddling (particularly in weaker, summer surf) provided by the wider planning surface, increased volume and flatter rocker.

The general rule is that you ride them at least four to six inches smaller than your standard board. However, if you don’t drop the length quite as much the extra volume can be a huge help for intermediate surfers or even older guys who want an easier life paddling without having to give up on shortboarding completely by riding a longboard. There are a huge variety of boards in this ‘fun’ category so if you find yourself confused make sure you check the board guides, then find a good reputable surf shop with a knowledgeable salesman who will give you good advice, or even better consult a reputable shaper. (Go to carvemag.com and have look through the board guides to find retailers and shapers near you) Given the opportunity I have always said all surfers should learn to longboard as well. Longboarding and more especially noseriding is an art unto itself and very much part of the ‘complete’ surfing experience that absolutely every level of surfer can enjoy. Learning to nose ride on a longboard will teach you balance, timing and style that no amount of flapping on a shortboard could ever do.

In the broadest of terms there are two types of longboard. Firstly there is the traditional single fin log. Thick, wide and flat they can make even six inches of surf seem like fun and provide the perfect cruising platform for endless hang tens. Secondly there is the HP (high performance) longboard. Made to be a lot more manoeuvrable with more rocker, less volume and generally with a three fin set up. You won’t get such long nose rides or the ‘glide’ of the traditional log but only a quick glance at pro surfers like Dudley and Ben Skinner and you will see them do turns on a longboard that will make your average shortboarder blush.

Of course the best knock on effect of owning a quiver is that you will have equipment that can perform in a huge range of surf. The truth is, whether you live inland or by the coast, surfing time is limited.

Swells come and go, the tide and the wind change and therefore so should your boards if you want to make the most of the time you have. Try not to think of yourself exclusively as a ‘shortboarder’ or a ‘longboarder’ and just be a ‘surfer’.

As it goes when my Gran said to me about learning something new every day I’m pretty sure she wasn’t talking about surfing, I think she meant learning a new Latin verb everyday! But I’m also sure that she would be very happy to know that I am still learning about surfing, learning keeps me keen to surf as often as I can and that keeps me fit.

And by staying fit I hope to surf and live for a long time.

Thanks Gran.

Luke Young

Luke Young

Surf Tech

Model:

Model:

Model:

The Vulcan

Dirty Bastard Quad

Joel Tudor Dead Fish

Specifications:

Specifications:

Specifications:

5'10" x 21" x 2 5/8”

5'6" x 19¾ " x 2¼”

5'10" x 21" x 2 3/4"

Shaper:

Shaper:

Shaper:

Luke Young

Luke Young

Bill Shrosbree

A rounded pin five-fin convertible, The Vulcan favours the heavier surfer in smaller, weaker surf. It has a super low nose entry with natural mid to tail rocker and a deep single concave through to slight double in the fins which flows out into a light vee in the tail to aid rail-to-rail transition.

A full deck volume gives the Vulcan great buoyancy without compromising performance.

A small-to-medium wave quad with low entry and exit rockers for increased speed and a full nose template. It has subtle single concave through to a slight panel vee through the tail so it flies through flat sections and breaks sharply into tight turns at speed. The fin set up has twin fin sides, and a pair of trailer fins at the back giving huge amounts of drive whilst still maintaining responsiveness.

The Dead Fish, designed

by Bill Shrosbree, is and easy to ride, quick turning, easy paddling, and super fast fish. The gentle retro style rocker and twin fin setup provide great drive and speed through flat sections and down the line.

Tel: 07789663693 Website: www.

Lukeyoungshapes.co.uk

Tel: 01205 722745 Website: www.SurfCom. co.uk

Tel: 07789663693 Website: www.

Lukeyoungshapes.co.uk

Pavel

DVS

Model:

Model:

Model:

Pavel Keel Fish

DVS Rocket Fish

McCoy Pot Belly

Specifications:

Specifications:

5'8"x 21" x 2¾”

Specifications:

5'11" x 21½" x 2¾"

Shaper:

6'6" x 22" x 3"

Shaper:

Shaper:

Dick Van Straalen

Geoff McCoy

A performance board based on the Classic DVS fish, but faster and looser.

More nose lift than the classic fish and a tighter outline with a little less volume. Features the “Rasta keels” which are cupped to provide more drive, and the top deck is concave at the rear of the board which lets you push harder against the wave in turns.

The McCoy Pot Belly Nugget is one of the most popular shortboard models we sell. Designed to surf as radically as you want, in a wide variety of wave types and sizes. It’s smaller, curvier and fuller in the nose than the standard Nugget for smooth, easy and exciting surfing. With Geoff’s unique bottom curve – the loaded dome – which neutralizes reaction giving more control and stability, anyone can get hop on and charge.

Rich Pavel With a timeless and universal appeal, this classic fish has exceptional performance in a wide range of conditions. It utilises fully accelerated curves, a deep cut tail, full rails, beak nose and a slight concave deck with a subtle vee to single-barrel after burner. Shaped and signed

by Rich Pavel.

Tel: 01736 757025 Website: www. downthelinesurf.co.uk

Tel: 01736 757025 Website: www. downthelinesurf.co.uk

McCoy

Tel: 01736 757025 Website: www. downthelinesurf.co.uk

Creamed Honey 7'2" 1975-ish.

Made in North Devon

by Kevin Cross. These boards were works of art.

I’ve picked up a few over the years and this is my favourite.

Brewer 8'6" I bought this off Jeff Crawford in Hawaii a few years ago. (Jeff won the the Pipe Masters in the 70s).

I’ve had some nice waves at sunset on this thing, it paddles in beautifully

Braunton, North Devon

Crab Island 6'1" 1985 This board was given to me my a customer who’d found it languishing in a neighbours shed. Shaped

by Craig Hughes it’s one of the best boards I’ve ever ridden.

Skelly man who owns 70 boards all of which he keeps in a tiny old Devon cottage near Braunton.

Most of them are from different times in UK board history. They hang off rafters, and in racks in every room in his house. This is man who loves surfboards!

Pavel 5'4" This was given to me by Rich for by 40th birthday. Nice!

Gulf Stream 5'9"speeddialler It’s basically a copy of Pavel's design wit a couple of tweeks, it’s brilliant in 4ft fast peelers.

Crab Island 5'4" 1982/83 Shaped again by Craig Hughes. Carwyn Williams was holding this board in a 1983 issue of Surf Scene. It was once bought for three pounds from Ilfracombe tip; unfortunately not by me!

Chapman 8'4" I bought this in Hawaii on my first trip there with Cotty. It was only about a hundred quid! I love the tint by Jack Reeves. It was before we’d started doing any pigment work at Gulf Stream and this was the board that inspired Cotty to get into tints.

Blue Hawaii 6'5" Pottz Twinzer I spotted this one on the roof of a car going past the shop in Braunton. The traffic lights were smiling on me that day, a quick sprint and bonnet dive and it was mine for less than a night out at the Thatch. I ride this a lot. Its fast and lateral, built for floaters.

Fulmar quad 5'10" 1983/84 I used to surf at Polzeath as a kid /teenager so I was surrounded by Bunty’s boards (now shaping under Local Hero) all through the 80's. I had some lovely boards off him through the 80s and early 90s so this is a nostalgia thing! This board reminds me of being a kid!

Lightning Bolt Surfboards

Gulf Stream 6'8" and 7'6" I love the blue pinnie. I've had it for about four years now, and it’s been to Ireland and Scotland loads, as well as being my ride of choice for big low tide Croyde.

It’s jolly nice in the green room.

Julian shaped the 7'6" for Sunset about 10 years ago. Somehow the board has survived winters in Hawaii, Western Australia, Portugal and Madeira. I’ve nearly drowned a couple of times attached to this board!

Lightning Bolt Surfboards

Model:

Model:

MR Retro Wing Swallow Tail Twin Fin

Pin Tail Mini Gun – Single Fin

Specifications:

Specifications:

6'4" x 20 ½ " x 2 3/8” Shaper:

Graham Smith Step back in time for the ultimate retro experience.

A great two fin board for summer, based on the Lightning Bolt boards Mark Richards was riding during his Freeride / Hawaii domination days.

Tel: 01872 553911 Website: www. lightningbolt.eu.com

6'6" x 21 9/16" x 2 3/8" Shaper:

Graham Smith A Gerry Lopez revival board, shaped by Graham Smith for medium to bigger waves. An epic shape with super easy paddling characteristics.

Graham Smith owns Gee Force Surfboards (which was established under the influence of the Shaun Tomson era around 1978) and has over 40 years of shaping experience. He recently began working with Lightning Bolt on the creation of the new surfboard collection.

Exciting times...

Tel: 01872 553911 Website: www. lightningbolt.eu.com

Seahorse belly board 1968 This is the board my mum rode when she was pregnant with me and painted by my dad.

There was a matching one with a shark on it. Unfortuneately I broke that one using it as a jump for my Raleigh Chopper (during my evel knievel stage!). I rode this last week!

Ocean magic 6'0" 1981 I have a fondness for Ocean Magics. Again they remind me of being a kid. Nigel Semmens used to kill it in the 80s and whenever I saw him in the water, I was always amazed how much spray used to fly around! I had a great OM quad shaped by Pete McCallum when I was about sixteen. It was Rabbit Hill's old board. The spray was cool and it rode really well.

Gulf Stream Model:

The Stickleback Specification:

5'10" x 19 3/8" x 2 ¼" Not all shortboarders want the retro feel of the keel fin fish. The Stickleback is made for those surfers who want to keep some of the traditional Fish advantages of flatter rocker and extra width but combined with the tight shortboard turns provided by a pulled in tail.

It has a thruster set up with double wingers (resembling the spikes on the back of stickleback fish, hence the name) the wide point is forward a couple of inches and there is a deep single concave. A truly modern hotdog hybrid. Yippee.

Tel: 01271 870831 Website: www. gulfstreamsurfboards.co.uk

Gulf Stream Model:

Keel Fin Fish Specification:

5'8" x 20 ½" x 2 3/8" This is our signature fish model that helped us win best UK and Ireland Fish shaper. The design is hugely influenced by the original split tail, twin fin fish invented by the great Steve Lis. The reason that the Fish became such a revolution the first time around in the 70’s is the same reason that our Keel Fin Fish is such a potent design today. That is to say that you get the kind of total involvement surfing and blinding horizontal speed that modern shortboards lack.

Tel: 01271 870831 Website: www. gulfstreamsurfboards.co.uk

carve surfing magazine 85

Circle One

Circle One

Custard Point

Model:

Model:

Model:

Quad fish

Custom Round Tail

Rocket fish

Specifications:

Specifications:

Specifications:

6'2" x 21" x 2¼"

7'1" x 21½ " x 2 ¼"

6'10" x 22¼" x 3"

Shaper:

Shaper:

Shaper:

Jeff Townsley

Jeff Townsley

Tim Mellors

This full-template fish is a blend of classic and modern. It’s designed to catch waves easily while the quad setup adds acceleration through turns and over flat spots. It has a ‘wing’ swallow tail and double concave, and will give your surfing a boost in smaller surf whilst still being great fun when it gets bigger.

Ideal for progressing from a large mini-mal to a thruster, or as a short board for the bigger guy. The forgiving width disguises a board that will perform in all conditions with speed and surprising responsiveness.

Made from a hand shaped EPS foam blank with genuine wood stringer and an innovative sandwich construction utilising epoxy resin and fibreglass, with multiple layers of nerocross link honeycomb material.

The Rocket Fish is a dream for the smaller slower waves found in the UK. Features include a flatter rocker for speed and wave catching, great width for stability and planing, and vee in the tail for superb rail to rail transition. Chined rails also give a lot of release and the Rocket Fish has a flatter deck for maximum volume and stability. Available in twin keel, or quad fin set ups.

Tel: 01363 773005 Website: www.circle-one. co.uk

Tel: 01363 773005 Website: www.circle-one. co.uk

Tunnel Vision Model:

Single Fin Specifications:

6'2" 19 ¾" 2½" With retro thickness and volume, the Tunnel Vision Single Fin is a dream to paddle and is packing a rounded pin, which makes it great for tube-riding. Bust out the ‘soul man’ moves, feel the love and enjoy the flow...

Tel: 01637 879033 Website: www. bilbosurfshop.co.uk

Tel: 01637 872579 Website: www. longboardhouse.co.uk

Tunnel Vision

Bilbo

Model:

Model:

Hollywood

Rocket Fish

Specifications:

Specifications:

5'10" x 20½" x 2 5/8"

5'6" x 20¼" x 2½"

Perfect step-up from a fish. With a fishy outline and rocker and a double bump round tail, it’s the board you will be seeing everywhere this summer...

With a quad setup, the recommended size is about 4 inches shorter than your shortboard. Beware: this board is highly addictive!

The Rocket Quad is a performance fish. Its quad fin configuration allows for amazing manoeuvrability and lightening down-theline speed, coupled with the freedom to go vertical at any time you want – this board lets you push your limits. This is our most exciting board yet and – from knee high slop to the speed runs at Peniche – this board really does cover it all.

Tel: 01637 879033 Website: www. bilbosurfshop.co.uk

Tel: 01637 879033 Website: www. bilbosurfshop.co.uk

86 carve surfing magazine

Gulf Stream Model: Saunton Slider

The best way to think of this board is front half traditional, back half modern. It’s got a wide nose riding platform upfront with pinched 50/50 rails and a large nose concave, but although the tail remains fairly wide it has a pintail with hard rails - much like a shortboard. The Slider suits anyone who wants to longboard, and also suits surfers that don’t want the bulk of a traditional noserider, and those who are a bit too ‘stately’ in proportions for progressive mals! Tel: 01271 870831 • Website: www.gulfstreamsurfboards.co.uk

TIKI Model: The 63 • Specification: 10" x 23¾" x 3¼" • Shaper: Tiki

A true old school slider. Soft rails, flat rocker, wide and long with a custom made cutaway skeg fin. This board will glide on small waves, trim and nose ride like no other. The skeg fin will anchor the tail for nose rides but flex into a turn for smooth soul arch bottom turns or long, drawn out cutbacks. 2 + 1 find set up. Summer joy... Tel: 01271 812442 • Website: www. tikisurf.co.uk

TIKI Model: McTavish, The Original SLX • Specifications: 9’1” x 22½” x 3¼” • Shaper: Bob McTavish

The McTavish Original was the board that brought modern longboarding into the 21st Century! With a radical three-stage rocker, a flat centre section for fast paddling, and a flipped nose and tail for fast, loose, down-the-line surfing. This board works best with a bit of weight stripped out, and the SLX epoxy construction delivers this perfectly. The Original is an ideal addition to any shortboarder’s quiver, or a high-performance option for the fish/longboard crew. Tel: 01271 812442 • Website: www.tikisurf.co.uk

Custard Point Model: Custard Point Classic • Specifications: 9'1" x 22½" x 2 7/8" • Shaper: Tim Mellors The Custard Point “Classic” model is the baby brother of the 9'1" classic. Superb manoeuvrability, paddling and amazing noseriding characteristics, make this model one of the best “all round” longboard shapes in the world. Designed for the surfer who wants one board to work well in the widest variety of surf conditions. The rocker, planshape and rails work in harmony to make this model a true “classic”. Tel: 01637 872579 • Website: www.longboardhouse.co.uk

Circle One Model: Custom Longboard • Specifications: 9'2" x 22 ½" x 2 ¾" • Shaper: Jeff Townsley Whether you want to walk the board or carve from the tail, this board allows you to surf with confidence, style and grace. Hand Shaped EPS foam blank with genuine wood stringer.

Sandwich construction utilising epoxy resin and fibreglass with layers of nero-cross link honeycomb material. 2 side fins + 8” centre fin. Summer gliding joy... Tel: 01363 773005 • Website: www.circle-one.co.uk

Bilbo Surf Shop Model: Natural Rhythm Tanker • Specifications: 9'1" x 23¼" x 3¼" The Tanker is a mal with width, length and thickness - making it not only a great entry level board, but also a great add-on to your quiver for those small summer days when you just need to have some fun... The 2 + 1 fin set up allows you to experiment between single fin and thruster styles too. Tel: 01637 879033 • Website: www.bilbosurfshop.co.uk

carve surfing magazine 87

Perranporth, Cornwall

mike searle

Ben is umber two in the world, dominator of the UK longboarding scene and Britains highest placed surfer on the World Longboard Tour, but he'll ride anything you put in front of him’ From fish, to shortboards to tow boards, two foot to twenty he rips on them all.

Performance Noserider I use this board on those days we get a lot of, weak fat and hard to catch. This boards extra volume, unique bottom contours and consistant rocker makes it work in anything. It’s the key to a contest in rubbish waves for me, but a great all round board for the bigger guys/girls. It’s loose off the tail, good on the nose, and will catch anything.

Lufi/Skindog Model This board means a lot to me. The influence Lufi has had on me and board design is priceless and I cant thank him enough. This model is very special and the team riders love it. Every event for as long as I can remember have ended with this model holding 1st 2nd and 3rd!

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Hydro Longboard Following on from the twin fin, the longboard is amazing too. Bufo have changed the technology slightly by adding a valve to the deck of the board, so, by adding and releasing air, you can change the flex of your board. Definately the best surfboard construction around today in my opinion.

Hydro Twin This Hydroflex Twin fin shaped by Bufo, I took to Aus last year. It is one of the best boards I have ever surfed, the technology is amazing and from this we decided we had to make a longboard in the Hydroflex technology.

Gunther Rohn We are lucky enough to start working with Gunther Rohn, a well known shaper around the world based on the Gold Coast. This board feels unbelievable, really reponsive and there is no doubt that Gunthers designs are sick!

Tow board This is my new tow board. Chris Harris, Ben Granata and myself designed it and it will soon be getting its maiden voyage.

Tow boards are totally different realm to normal boards so we have a lot more to explore and I cant wait.

Transformer After surfing longboards and twin fins most of the time, I wanted something with a bit of everything in it. This board is really versatile, great for slabby barrels as well as flying in the junk that we mainly get. It will catch pretty much anything, and with the 4+1 fin setup, you can surf it as a twin, 3 ,4 or 5 fin, single fin, 2+1 and basically any other fin configuration you can think of. If I could only take one board on a trip, it would be this.

Newport, Wales Elliot is another of Britains best young longboarders. He’s a former European and BLU champion and another surfer who rips on just about anything you can give him. From SUP’s down to tiny fish he’s got a board for every condition. He’s going to SUP across the channel for SAS, so make sure you make a donation.

5'10" Al Merrick Flyer I got this board through PJ’s shop. It’s the second one I've had and is probably my favourite “normal” shortboard. I don’t really ride anything too thin and narrow and this board is so smooth to ride, it’s a little fatty! If I ever go anywhere with good punchy, hollow waves like France this is pretty much the only board I’ll ride.

9' high performance shaped by Dave Stubbs in Cape Town (2+1 setup).

It’s custom epoxy and super light. It's probably one of my favourite contest boards as it’s so light and responsive. It does everything pretty well and literally goes in anything from 1ft to as big as you want. It’s the only one I’ve got and I’ve already creased it so it only comes out on special occasions!

This is another Bing 9'6" pintail lightweight model. This model is from the late 60’s when boards were becoming more maneuverable and lighter with less focus on noseriding and more on turns. It is a great all round log and still noserides insane but it’ll hold a bit better in the steeper stuff.

I love riding this board on those howling offshore days when everyone else is struggling, it just flies!

7' Pink Takayama Egg I’ve had this board for about 10 years and don't ride it as much as I should. It’s such a smooth and fast board.

It goes great in overhead, lined up waves. I’ve had some great surfs in the Canaries on this board and as it’s a single fin you have to really draw out your turns.

will bailey

9'4" Bing Lovebird from California (singlefin). It is such a nice board and pretty much the best all round single fin I’ve ridden. It is a solid noserider but with a Greenough 4A fin it is super snappy off the tail. If I wanted to take one proper longboard on a surf trip it would be this one. Plus it's got a sick fabric inlay and is a work of art in my opinion!

9' Quiver Surfboards This is shaped by Mark Neville at Seabase. Mark is one of the best longboard shapers in the country and I went to him with a T.Patterson longboard I had from California and asked him to make a copy. This is another one of my contest boards and is a great all rounder. It noserides really well for such a high performance board.

10'3" Takayama Alii SUP by Surftech This is the SUP I use most of the time. I do have a 14ft distance board but this is so much easier to carry round so I do most of my distance training on this. It's also super fun to ride on those junk days where you wouldn't bother surfing otherwise. It actually noserides amazingly well! I've been covering a fair bit of distance on this board training for the SAS Challenge 2010 where I will be trying to set a new record for crossing the English Channel and hopefully raise a load of money for SAS. (If you want to donate go to http://www.justgiving. com/elliot-dudley)

9'6" Bing NR2 single fin This is another Californian beauty. It is a lighter version of the original Bing noserider and is pretty much a one trick pony. It is one of the best noseriders I’ve ever had and is so much fun to ride. You can literally camp out on the nose, cruise through sections and hang ten all day. I love riding this board at Ogmore rivermouth when it's 1-2foot and super steep. The tail will never slide out, it’s epic!

5'6" Quiver Quad Fish This is another board shaped by Mark Neville and is based on the Rich Pavel speed dialler. It's super fat and stubby but with the quad set up it holds in surprisingly well. Great for slack summer days but I rode it in some pretty heavy stuff in Hossegor at Easter and had a blast. This board will be going everywhere with me this summer!

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Surf Tech Model: 9'1" McTavish Fireball • Specifications: 9'1" x 22 3/4" x 2 7/16" • Shaper: Bob McTavish

Subtle refinements make it friendly, versatile, predicable and reliable! The rocker being just right, the bevels, the fin placement, the rail volume. Don’t take it for a softy! The Fireball rips!

The board itself would suit anyone wanting a responsive modern longboard that they can still improve their noseriding skills with. This combined with the sheer strength of Surftech's board construction make the board perfect for the personal who wants one mal for everything.

Luke Young Model: Circa '63 • Specifications: 9'4" x 22" x 3 1/8" • Shaper: Luke Young

This is an early sixties California replica model, with a narrow nose and wider tail template. It has rolled vee throughout with 50/50 rails and comes with a classic Rainbow D fin. An absolute beauty and a ‘must have’ for all retro mal enthusiasts. Tel: 07789663693 • Website: www.Lukeyoungshapes.co.uk

Surf Tech Model: The Tudor Papa Joe • Specifications: 9'6" x 23 ¼" x 3" • Shaper: Tom Eberly

High performance longboard for use in a range of conditions. Tom Eberly designed this board for Joel to use as a step-up from his 9'4" HPNR. Perfect for long, lined up point breaks.

And good enough for Joel Tudor means good enough for you! Tel: 01205 722745 • Website: www.SurfCom.co.uk

Bilbo Model: Bilbo Wave Wizard • Specifications: 9'1" x 23 1/8" x 3" With a wide and full outline, and with thin foiled rails that let the water hang on during nose rides, but are also thin enough to drive through turns. Width in the outline translates into stability for nose riding, and all that curve makes for ultra smooth turns. Designed with concave for nose riding, and a spiral vee through the fins for more manoeuvrability, this high performance board can be ridden either as a 2 + 1 or a single fin. Tel: 01637 879033 • Website: www.bilbosurfshop.co.uk

Bilbo Model: Bilbo Torpedo Mini-Mal • Specifications: 7'4" x 22" x 2 7/8"

A super fun board for advanced as well as entry level surfers. Nice rail-to-rail surfing and it flies through turns due to its multi concave bottom shape, which also gives it a stylish but traditional feel. Tel: 01637 879033 • Website: www.bilbosurfshop.co.uk

Morning of the Earth Model: Log (Traditional longboard) • Specifications: 9'5" X 23" X 3" Shaper: Simon Jones

A traditional longboard with a 17" tail and nose, and a low but constant rocker throughout the length of the board making it easier to take a late/steep drop. A pulled in nose to reduce catching and subtle 5ft nose concave that goes into a rolled V bottom, 50/50 rails and plenty of weight for that old time feel. Tel: 01736 757025 • Website: www.downthelinesurf.co.uk

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devon Gulf Stream The only award winning surfboard manufacturers in Devon. See the whole range and get custom boards made.

Web: www.gulfstreamsurfboards.co.uk Email: info@gulfstreamsurfboards.co.uk Address: 12 South Sreet, Woolacombe, North Devon EX34 7BB Tel: 01271 870831

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cornwall Down the Line Surf We stock a huge selection of surfboards made in and imported from Australia including surfboards by Dick Van Straalen (DVS), Jim Banks, Simon Anderson, Greg Webber, Chill, Murray Bourton, Firewire, plus Geoff McCoy, Morning of the Earth as well as many more surf boards you’ve come to know and love imported from Oz by Down The Line.

Web: www.downthelinesurf.co.uk Email: info@downthelinesurf.co.uk Address: Market Square Arcade, Copperhouse, Hayle, Cornwall TR27 4EA Tel: 01736 757025 bilbo Surf Shop Stocking one of THE largest ranges of surfboards in Europe, our friendly team have years of top level experience. Swing by for impartial advice, and a chat about your board requirements. Sold to surfers by surfers.

Web: www.bilbosurfshop.co.uk Tel: 01637 879033 Address: 6 Alma Place, Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1NF

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Tiki Surf Shop (Tiki International Plastics Ltd) We are proud to supply some of the world’s best surfboard brands – Webber, Walden, McTavish, Aloha, NSP, SouthPoint and more, 13 quality brands in total for every surfer and every price. Take a look around the site for the UK’s best range of surfing hardware.

Web: www.tikisurf.co.uk Tel: +44 (0) 1271 812442 Address: Velator Industrial Estate, Braunton, North Devon EX33 2DX

wales JP Surfboards Sometimes it isn’t easy to decide between one board and another, so to help you we’ve put together a selection of boards from each of our ranges that you can borrow to see how they feel, give us a call or drop us an email to check availability. There is a deposit required but we can talk about that when you get here.

Web: www.jpsurfboards.co.uk Email: JPsurfboards@btconnect.com Address: Unit 7a Crofty Industrial Estate, Penclawdd, Swansea SA4 3RS Tel: 01792 851 759 Ma simes surf hut Wales’ premier online surf shop with quality boards, wetsuits and hardware, fast efficient service, and solid advice. Call us – we answer the phone!

Web: www.masimes.co.uk Email: info@masimes.co.uk Address: 28 High Street, St. David’s, Pembrokeshire SA62 6SD Tel: 01437 720433

national Surftech demo centres Try and test our shapes before you buy. Test centres around the country.

Tel: 01205 722745 Web: www.surfcom.co.uk

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carve surfing magazine 91

reposar Ladies and Gentlemen may we present to you one of the ficklest, yet finest waves in the world – Desert Point on Lombok. Maddeningly difficult to score, packed when it is on and savagely shallow on the inside it is still considered one of the best barrels anywhere. Seek its spoils; a good wave here will be with you for life.

A Fluffers Guide To Indo…

Ask any surfer the simple question – Where’s the best surf in the world?

The instant answer, pre-programmed at a genetic level, consists of four letters summing up an archipelago of infinite variety and endless adventure – I N D O…

Now considered a year round destination the many islands of ye olde Dutch East Indies hold many waves, much weirdness and more culture than you can shake a shitty stick at. The focus on the perfect, but expensive, Mentawais to the North is fading as surfers go cheap and get cultural in the original stomping grounds of Bali, Java and the Nusa Tenggara. You want some? Here’s our sprawling guide to the funnest wave zone on earth with visual accompaniment from the Brit’s ripping out there recently…

reposar Scar Reef down Sumbawa way also needs a big swell to get it going and the relatively flat reef is peppered with spiky corals just waiting to give you a momento of your visit.

On the plus side it’s still nicer than the razor garden up the coast at Supersuck. This might be Machado in the pit, if it’s not then it’s someone with one messed up head.

How To Spot A Benchong

If you get your kicks mixing it up with Indonesian transvestites – known as Benchong in those parts- then by all means knock yourself out. If you’d rather your ladies were actually of the opposite sex rather than impostors packing some unwelcome meat and two veg then read on…

Benchong spotting is an art best practised from afar, using your keen sense of sight, you don’t want to find out using your drunken, fumbling sense of touch. Down that road nightmares lie, not to mention neverending piss taking from your friends, so look out for the tale-tale signsAdams apple – Real women, gawd bless ‘em, don’t have as pronounced a lump in their throat as men, so if your suspect has a big old lump in their throat then odds on there’s a big lump in their drawers as well.

In these surgery happy times it only takes a swift chondrolaryngoplasty to reduce the size of the apple so it’s not a 100% accurate.

Physique – Indonesian women are petite, size 0, little minxes in the main so any ‘birds’ that are your height and look like they could out paddle you are possible candidates for having a downstairs mistake.

Hands – Does ‘she’ have meat hammers for hands and feet like swim-fins?

If the answer is yes then ‘she’ might be ‘he’.

Make up – One-way to hide rough male complexions and stubble is trowelling on heaps of slap. Excessive make up is best avoided anyway- nice birds prefer a natural look.

BOBFOC – So you’ve spotted a looker at the bar, if when she turns around it’s a case of ‘Body Off Baywatch, Face Off Crimewatch’ then move on.

Familiar – Classy ladies don’t shout at you in the street or come up and paw you in a bar. Unless they are a) Cock-carrying benchongs or b) Card-carrying hookers.

Either way it’s a recipe for a back-alley disaster…

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How To Drive A Rental Jeep So you’re being sensible and avoided the moped option, you’ve figured out that while paying ‘Mr Transpooooooort!’ to drive you around in his mini-van is fine for day trips you really need your own wheels. So you want a rental. Here’s some sage advice…

Renting a motor in Bali is not like Europe; Hertz and Avis they ain’t. On the plus side the small scale renters are not as anal and there’s not as much paperwork. On the minus side the inevitable Suzuki toy 4x4 they give you will be a rusty, leaky shed. But as surfers that’s not an issue…

hamish humphreys

Go with the flow – The traffic in Bali is as hectic as anywhere, don’t fight it, go with it, watch how the locals do it, you’re not in London now boys, no need to be a twat. If you blow a roundabout exit then go round and try again don’t make a sudden lunge or you’ll find your car painted with the remains of several Balo scooter-boys.

Know your place – It goes like thispedestrians give way to mopeds, mopeds give way to cars, cars gives way to minibuses and everyone gives way to lorries. The bigger you

are the less you need to care about your driving.

They expect you to get out the way.

Horn – The Indo MOT consists of a simple test, the mechanic reaches into your car, gives the horn a damn good honk, ticks the box and you’re on your way. The horn is more important than any other part of your car. Use it as it is meant to be used – to say ‘I am here’. It might just save yer bacon.

Bensin – There’s not a petrol station every 5-miles in Indo. Keep it topped up at proper gas stations where you can or you’ll be buying suspect car juice in milk bottles from some cackling, toothless, geriatric dude smoking a fag.

Maps – A map is very useful, more useful is someone that knows where they are going, especially on the dawn run to Canggu, a built in human TomTom can save you a world of pain as everywhere looks like everywhere else in Kuta.

Speed – Keep it low, keep it safe, knocking over a cow or a kid will lead to a potential lynching and you don’t want to see what a machete can do close up. Not to mention you won’t be allowed to leave the country until damages are paid for.

jason childs

Moody Sumbawa magic.

Not what you want to see in your mirrors when yer on yer ‘ped.

hamish humphreys

James Hendy’s charmed life has led him to a job in Bali.

So he gets to go on his hols to a different island for a £40 flight. Makes your blood boil don’t it?

Jayce had a good old roam around Bali and the Nusa Tenaggara (Sumbawa & Lombok to you and I). It was worth it for nugs like this.

How To RESPECT THE CULTURE Bali has a unique culture stemming from the island being Hindu unlike the mainly Muslim other islands. Respect for any culture when you’re travelling is essential; make sure you don’t mortally offend anyone…

It’s more than saying ‘please’ and ‘thank you’, there’s a bunch of little Indo idiosyncrasies you need to know aboutHead – Touching people on the head is a big no-no, bad news, don’t do it.

Lefties – The left hand is used for wiping your ring (in the eco-friendly toilet paper free way!) and so using it for anything else is frowned upon, especially pointing at stuff, touching people or passing someone an object.

Feet – It sounds odd put showing the bottom of your feet is also not cool.

When traipsing around the joint don’t stand on the little offerings, they are holy, not something for you to kick around.

Temples – You are more than welcome in the temples just cover up shoulder to knee and be cool. You are also not to meant to enter if you are menstruating – especially important for fellas.

Your momma jokes – Mum jokes are out, if it’s mother-in-law, your momma’s so fat, or whatever they don’t go down well… Like your momma.

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jason childs

jason childs

Still paradise even forty years on from it’s discovery Bali is one helluva place.

Can’t beat Bali for culture, gamelan, shadow puppets, mad processions, cock fighting, it’s all there.

We’re not loving Joss Ash right now. He spent most of the winter fannying around in Indo, came home in April only to turn round a few weeks later to go back walking straight into what looks like the first Deserts swell of the season. Git. This is him at Ulu’s.

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How To SPEAK THE LANGUAGE jason childs

Wherever you travel in the world (apart from France) everyone loves it when you try and speak the local lingo. Indonesian is reasonably easy to pronounce and the basics are easy to pick up…

Indonesia is a very polite society, manners are important so be courteous, being polite will also get you better service and a better price than some of the boorish backpacking pigs. Never argue, saving face is very important to the locals, throwing your toys out the pram will get you nowhere.

Good morning – Selamat pagi Yes – Ya No – Tidak Please – Silahkan Thank you – Terima kasih I don’t speak Indonesian – Saya tidak bisa bahasa Indonesia.

How old are you? – Berapa umurnya?

Are you married? – Sudah kawin?

How much? – Berapa?

Where is my wallet? – Di mana dompetku?

Finished – Habis.

I am sorry – Maaf.

Excuse me – Permisi.

I’d like a fag – Saya mau kretek?

I would like some coffee – Saya minta kopi The following words are similar in English and Indonesian so you will be understood- airport, baby, bank, bar, beer, cherry, coffee, computer, doctor, donut, hamburger, ice, massage, OK, oven, police, roast beef, sex, shopping, steak, stop, taxi, tea, toilet, TV.

Mopeds are as Indonesian as nasi goreng.

jason childs

this is What you look like after a night on the illusion shakers.

carve surfing magazine 101

How To make the most of the surf

Uber grom du jour Liam Turner’s done his time in the islands. Loose here at one of them mysto spots up from Canggu.

Get up – Dawny the hell out of it when the surfs good. Up in the dark, on the beach at first light, you’ll get three hours empty surfing in before the hungover masses arrive.

Stay close – Staying in a little warung at Padang or Ulu’s is a sure way to get more waves. Sure you’ve not got the bright lights of Kuta but you’ll be on it from dawn, don’t need transport and you’ll save heaps of cash. When there’s swell stay out of town, when its flat go party. Simples.

Check the charts – If the winds going weird then hit the east side, or further north, there’s plenty of options, Canggu’s fun as hell onshore anyways.

Figure out the spots – There are heaps of waves on Bali that all work on different conditions. Get a good guidebook and get your head round it. Don’t just surf the same reef every day (unless Padang is cooking obviously).

Be cool – The locals are super tolerant. Keep it that way by being respectful in the water. If you break a stick and don’t want to bring it home give it to a local grom to get fixed up.

jason childs

This is why you came to Indo right- To actually go surfing; not to bar hop in Kuta or lie on the beach tuning chicks at Bingin. So make the most of it while you can…

Most people in the Kuta vortex are on the party program. The whole concept of the early surf isn’t that popular, so with a bit of will power you’ll get a ton of waves and feel a whole lot better for it.

The Benchong Academy graduation ceremony.

Marky Lascelles spends most winters there with wing man Josh Ward, they snavelled an epic session at a secret right on the right coast.

jason childs

How To not get fleeced Getting ripped off is all part of being a travelling surfer. In the poorer parts of the world you can be viewed as a walking ATM. It’s all part of the fun but here’s some things to watch out for in Indo…

Bali and the surrounding islands are generally very safe. The only times you will get in trouble is if you are inviting it. It always pays to have your wits about you. In other words getting out your mind drunk is not cool, if you do and you wake up minus your wallet with a condom hanging out your ass it’s your own fault.

Money changers – you can often get a better rate at back street exchanges. Just watch for false counts. It’s an easy scam when dealing with 10,000s of rupiah, but it’s your money, count it at the desk as there’s no come back once you’ve left.

The moped scam – Always get insurance on your ‘ped (or a lock).

They are easy to steal and if you have no insurance you will have to pony up for a new one. It’s been known for the people that rent them to steal them off you with a ‘soft’ key that works on all the same model.

Deadly arak – You’ll have seen on the news last year about the spate of deaths from methanol laced arak. It’s a cheap way of upping the alcohol content of the local brew. Best stick to Bintang and scary cocktails in the bars eh?

Cute pickpockets – If you come out of a club steaming and a gang of grommets get in your face and harass you to buy a newspaper just be aware where their tiny hands are going… After your wallet.

Drugs are bad – Fancy a stint in an Indonesian jail. Probably not all air-con and PlayStations like the ones in Blighty. Drugs are illegal and carry stiff penalties (including death for trafficking) in Indo so don’t be a dummy. The police have stooges that sell drugs to you, you get nicked, they get the cash and the stooge gets the stash back to sell again.

jason childs sharpy

It really is a dog eat dog world.

Matty Capel’s had a good winter, stint on the Goldie, a good trip to W.A and a fine old time in Indo. Warm water just makes you want to do massive double grab boosts don’t it?!

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bosko

5 LEGENDARY WAVES

Uluwatu – The coral real estate that started the Indonesian gold rush that goes on to this day. First “discovered” in August 1971 by film-maker Alby Falzon, his footage of 14-year old Aussie Steve Cooney and Seppo Rusty Miller streaking across perfect green walls in the seminal film Morning Of The Earth opened the worlds eyes to the potential of Bali and beyond.

Nearly 40-years later the lure of Outside Corner, The Peak and the sublime Racetracks remains strong. Reliable and working from 2 to 12-feet it’s the default wave for many Bali trips. Until you’ve descended into the cave and paddled out you won’t know. Of course getting back into the cave on a big day when the tides pushing can be an interesting experience!

reposar

shieldsy

Padang Padang – Myth has it that Aussie Richard Harvey was the first to slide across the fearsome Padang reef in 1973. He picked his way down the rocky coast from Ulu’s on a big day to see what he could find. He rode three waves and retreated as without a soul in sight it wouldn’t of been a good place to get hurt. It made it un-named onto celluloid in Free Ride in ’77 and wasn’t named in the media until 1980.

PP needs a whopping swell to get going and when it does the whole world will be on it, unsurprising as it’s one of the best barrels in the world, it’s also a great place to snap your board and bark yourself on the reef…

Desert Point, flawless.

Desert Point – Located on the SW tip of Lombok across the Lombok Strait from Bali it also marks the bio-geographical beginning of Australasia and the end of Asia as the Wallace Line lies in the channel.

Needing a big swell at the right angle to get going scoring Deserts is no easy task. The options are either boating in or feraling it on land. Probably the longest barrel in the whole of Indo Desert’s is a fickle but essential gem. Arguably the spot with one of the most perfect line-ups in the world, the photo from the hill is an iconic view in surfing. On a good day the barrel grows in size as the wave peels down the reef. shieldsy

G-Land – The daddy of all Indo spots located on the edge of the jungle at the SE tip of Java is a multi section reef with something for everyone from big open walls at Money Trees to the insane freight train kegs at Speedies. First surfed in 1972 by Seppo’s Bill Boyum and Bob Laverty, who’d spotted the wave on a plane ride to Bali, they motor biked all the way from Bali to the village of Grajagan and then hiked in with supplies. They surfed it for three perfect days before running out of food. On return to Bali Laverty died in a surfing accident at Ulu’s. While Bill’s brother Mike went onto to start the original surf camp; which in the early 80s was bringing in $250,000 a season. Mike Boyum went on to find Cloud 9 in the Philippines and died there while on the 45th day of a purifying fast.

top: Lewis Clinton & the wave that started it all.

Middle: So gnarly they named it twice.

Bottom: G-Land is still the daddy.

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Keramas – New kid on the block the east side beauty has only been on the radar the last few years but is now the medias darling. Firm favourite for the dawny and the place to be for the world’s photobagging, footage-grabbing pro’s. In the main season the trade winds are onshore so you need to be on it first light. It’s a bit of right relief in the land of the left. Fun as hell when small, serious and painful when big this reef maybe about performance but it’s no softy. A new road up the east side opened up this stretch a few years back leading to its discovery and of a brace of other fun beachies.

jason childs

Sam Lamiroy put in a mammoth four-month stint this winter, moving wife, bub and life over there. His aim- to smash Keramas, which he did.

Lakey Peak turns on during the switchover between the wet season and dry season around April, winds are light, swells are starting to build and guys like Gadge here (known to his mother as Gareth Llewellyn) revel in it. In the main Indo season it still cooks but is onshore from mid-morning and taken over by kite surfers who love Sumbawa as much as we do.

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5 THINGS YOU MUST PACK

First aid kit – Hindus believe in Karma, it’s better to believe in effective first aid. Simple things like plasters and wound dressings can safe you a lot of pain. For treating cuts use hydrogen peroxide to remove coral chunks (fun when it’s not you) and locally available gentian violet is awesome for keeping cuts sealed and preventing ulcers while you surf. Don’t let ulcers fester.

Ding repair kit – In Bali getting dings fixed is no issue, in Lombok and Sumbawa it’s DIY time. Know how to fix basic rail cracks, dings and a spare FCS plug set is a good idea. Some guys bring enough to fix a snapped board.

Sun screen – Doesn’t really need to be said but if you don’t respect the sun you will be spending days inside nursing nuclear grade burns while everyone else has fun.

Boardies – Boardshorts and a wetty top are a good idea as the trades can be chilly and a bit of rubber protects you from the reef.

Green boardies are a no-no, regarded as unlucky by the locals, the goddess of the sea will have ya if you wear them.

Anti-malarials – Bali is malaria free in the tourist areas (you’d have to go looking for it in the jungle) but it is present in Lombok, Sumbawa and G-Land (Kalani Robb caught it while in the camp). Doxycycline is a good choice as it’s a broad spectrum antibiotic and hasn’t got any shite side effects.

carve surfing magazine 109

es sentia

ls

2010_sunglasses_guide

The eyes have it

Get yourself all blinged out this summer with the coolest shades. Here's a look at some of the best ones on offer right now. Plus go to the website www. carvemag.com for the online sunglasses guide. photo courtesy oakley

T

hat big firey ball in the sky, you know the one, we see it occasionally in the U.K, is known as ‘The Sun’ and is responsible for almost all life on earth. Without its photosynthesis driving energy we wouldn’t have any oxygen to breath and we’d be living on a cold, dead, icy rock hovering somewhere around -270˚C. Even a hooded 6mm and all the trimmings won’t keep that cold out, not that it would matter cos the oceans would all be solid ice.

Thankfully that is not the case. The sun maybe about 150,000,000km away and it’s light may take 8 minutes and 19 seconds to get here but it does a darn good job of keeping us warm, alive and drives the climate and weather without which there would be no surf.

Giver of life it maybe but anything that emits nuclear radiation needs handling with kid gloves, or in this case some shiny eye protecting goggles…

“Why bother with sunnies?” you say. Well listen up kids this is the skinnyYou can peek at the sun very briefly with the naked eye with no damage, anything passed a brief flirtation like that and it’s gonna be doing you no favours. A good stare at the sun can cause phosphene artifacts and temporary blindness- that’s what happens when you torch your retina with 4milliwatts of pure undiluted sunlight. UV exposure also gradually yellows the lens of the eye and is thought to contribute to the formation of cataracts, that’s just generally, not from looking at the sun either.

If you do look at the sun, unavoidable on late evening summer surfs on the west coast, then 100 seconds is all it takes to for the UV to induce sunburn like lesions on your retina.

So you get the picture, the sun maybe our friend but it doesn’t do our eyes any good at all. Sunnies in the surf are hard to work so you need to protect your eyes whenever possible on land. Being near the ocean

110 carve surfing magazine

Go online now to win some cool Quiksilver and Black Flys sunglasses www.carvemag.com

is a double whammy as the water reflects the suns rays back up at you. This may mean surfers have a lovely tanned under chin but it also means we are more at risk of eye damage than most people. Cataracts and poor vision in old age are one thing, the benign growth of the scary and hard to pronounce ‘Pterygium’ is another. In essence a conjunctive growth on the eye caused by over exposure to sun and wind it’s not something you want to consider; Google it to see what can happen.

Symptoms include persistent redness, inflammation and itchy eyes. In advanced cases the pterygium can affect vision as it invades the cornea and can cause all manner

of problems. So those surfers you think are permanently baked due to the red eyes are probably just in the early stages of pterygium…

Convinced sunnies are an essential now? Look after your peepers, not like you can get another set, buy decent sunglasses with good lenses and be confident you are buying safe shades by looking for the European Standard CE mark or British Standard BSEN 1836:1997.

In other words buy a reputable brand like those featured here, those ones from down the market may be cheap and fashionable this week but they won’t protect your precious eyeballs from interstellar radiation.

Website: www.quiksilver-europe.com

Quiksilver Akka Dakka Grilamid injected frame, distortion free shatter resistant polycarbonate lenses, 100% UV sun protection. £78

Quiksilver The Pulse Grilamid injected frame, distortion free shatter resistant polycarbonate lenses, 100% UV sun protection. £70

style inside and out

Tel: 01656 746984 Email: matts@dohltd.com Website: www.carveeyewear.com

Carve Chronic Polycarbonate frame, Polycarbonate grey lens, Nylon frame and 100% UV protective. £24.99

Carve Frothdog Polycarbonate grey lens, 100% UV protective. Great coloured polycarbonate frame. £24.99

All our glasses are 100% UVA and UVB. Our handmade frames are constructed from custom selected acetate, producing a smoother texture and richer look and feel. Handmade styles feature shatter proof CDR-39 lenses. Our prices range from £60 to £115.

Tel: 01462 475 400 • Email: infouk@oakley.com • Website: www.oakley.co.uk

Tel: 0845 388 0046 • Email: info@blackflys.biz • Web: www.blackflys.biz

Black Flys Fly Coca

Oakley Holbrook

Fly Cocas are the essence of Southern Calafornia, big and classic surf style glasses. They are tough and durable yet offer a sleakness in design which offers maximum comfort and style. Surf till you Fly! £85

Designed in collaboration with Shaun White, this timeless vintage classic takes its name from a small town found along the historic Route 66 in Arizona. £105

Black Flys Fly Tacos

Oakley Dispatch™

Tacos are from our handmade range, and take there influence from the dance clubs of LA. Striking colours blend effortlessly to produce the club vibe on the beach. Rock with the Fly! £115

This frame goes big, with confident contours and cunning technology that allows you to customize your frame with interchangeable “O” icons. Each frame comes with two sets. £100

carve surfing magazine 111

2010_sunglasses_guide

Tel: 0161 304 0114 • Email: info@flidistribution.co.uk • Website: www.electricvisual.com

Electric Hoy

Electric OHM III

This tough-as-nails style was inspired by Aussie surf hero Mr. Matt Hoy. Designed to look as good on the beach as they do out on the town, Hoy sunglasses share the same ‘surf all day, party all night’ attitude that makes Matt Hoy a living legend. The inside arm of every Hoy frame incorporates the stars of the Southern Cross Constellation-a proud Aussie symbol taken straight off the iconic Australian national flag. So, who better to pull up a bar stool with and cheers a fresh schooner of beer? £85

The OHM III is our third installment of these most coveted and stylish series of shades.

Make no mistake, your attention to detail will not go unnoticed as the unique brow capped with a distinct plaque and flanking line highlighting the hinge are nothing short of a powerful reminder that you clean up nice. £69.99

Electric ShotGlass

Electric VHF

This bold new member to the family will leave little question as to who’s runnin’ the show.

With a full shield lens construction this mold-injected wise guy, is tough as nails. The 4 base Grilamid frame and polycarbonate lens promise that nothing short of a garbage disposal will harm these bad boys. £70

VHF is the latest retro-styled sunglass to hit the frequency waves. With logo-studded arms and vintage design inspiration, VHF reaches every facet of the Electric spectrum. £85

Stockist: www.animal.co.uk

Animal Chip

Animal Cargo

Hypo allergenic metal construction, hand crafted acetate paddle ear tips, impact resistant & base polycarbonate lenses, spring hinge mechanism, arm tip signature branding, adjustable silicone nose pads, 100% UV protection £59.99

Hand crafted acetate frame, alloy plate embossed branding, impact resistant 8 base CR39 lenses, 5 barrel stainless steel hinge, metal core arms, 100% UV protection, supplied with deluxe protective case £69.99

Animal Rincon

Animal Twinzer

Lightweight stress resistant TR90 frame, impact resistant 8 base polycarbonate lenses, high strength screw down hinge, arm tip signature branding, 100% UV protection, polarized lens option £44.99

Hand crafted acetate frame, impact resistant 8 base CR39 lenses, 5 barrel stainless steel hinge, metal core arms, 100% UV protection. £69.99

112 carve surfing magazine

Charge like Ryan 'Hippo' Hipwood at Shipsterns!' Winner World Tow-in champs 2009!

Tel: 01841 520840 • Email: sunfun@globalnet.co.uk • Website: www.liivevision.com

Liive Hyper Polar Soft touch tort, matt TR 90 soft touch rubber feel frame, 100%UV, tac polarised 8 base lens, metal temple inlay, pin hinge 3 £24.95

Liive Dustbin

TR90 flex nylon frame, torric polycarbonate lens, 100%UV, pin hinge. £24.95

Liive Sonic Art

Liive Voodoo Cheeta

Tr- 90 flex nylon frame, 100%UV, PC 8 base lens, metal inlayed temples with star art. £24.95

Cellulose propinate frame, live Cheetah art on the inside of the temples, 8 base polycarbonate shield lens, 3 barrel metal hinge, 100%UV. £24.95

Tel: 0033558707070 • Email: infovz@vonzipper.fr • Web: www.eu.vonzipper.com

Von Zipper The Manchu

Von Zipper The Panzer

Jump head first into the Manchu state of mind! This sunglass from the VZ dynasty is sweeter than a fortune cookie and more timeless than an ancient Chinese secret. £110

The VZ army wants you! As a recruit in the VZ war against the sun's evil rays, your protection is our first concern. Standard operating procedure calls for you to armor up with the Panzer and blitzkrieg your way through enemy lines. £80

Von Zipper The Elmore

Von Zipper Telly

Papa was a rolling stone and wherever he hung his hat was his home. So why don't you hang a pair of Elmore sunnies on your face and get rambling on your mind so you can roll out the old school way. £95

…Who loves ya, baby?…For the bald and the beautiful and everyone in between…No need to channel surf when your rockin' this big screen…So flip on your Telly and enjoy your show…£80

carve surfing magazine 113

masstser cla

Russ can kill ants just using his mind. True story.

Boost Your Performance for Summer! Part 1

By Russell Winter and Lee Stanbury • photos mike searle

A two part series where Russ Winter breaks down the factors that made him Europe’s most successful surfer and fitness guru Lee Stanbury takes things to the next level…

Training Russ Says:

I started surfing when I was nine by the time I was 12 or 13 I was spending a lot of time boxing training, punching the punch bag a lot. I also spent a lot of time cycle training on my mountain bike. My family background is that my dad, and two older brothers were heavily in to Judo so I used to go with them and train in the dojo. So I learned a routine from them that would include sit ups, press ups and going and punching the bag. Just sets every day. I followed Judo until I got hooked on surfing but it instilled a really good training regime in me.

When surfing took over I was in the water every day, if it was unrideable then I would train. Because I didn’t

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spend a stack of time at school I’d fill my time training the whole time. I used to love punching the punch bag, thinking I was Rocky knocking out Apollo Creed ha ha!

I joined the local gym as I got a little older, concentrating on light weights, leg presses and the pec deck to push my fitness when there were no waves. Other than surfing, the training that you do you need to enjoy or you won’t do it. I love cycling and it’s so good for your legs. Sit ups, press ups and squats are easily done, you can do them any where and they don’t take long to get good results.

More recently started Ju Jitsu as well. Rolling around on the floor with another bloke a couple of times a week is really good anaerobic work out and excellent for your flexibility. I’ve recently started using a balance ball as well

which is a useful piece of equipment for different kinds of press ups and sit ups.

The boxing training that I do, mainly punch bag work replicates surfing really well. Learning combo’s and being on your toes, using your arms and your legs, you get really tired quickly but it’s really intensive and explosive which is great for your surfing.

Lee Says: One of the secrets to Russell’s fantastic surfing success is his attitude to land based fitness training. Many sports athletes all over the world supplement their training program with additional training types, and the benefits run far and wide, this type of training if done properly and specific to that sport is known as sports specific training.

will bailey

If you are a good apprentice then one day young padawan you may achieve the jedi heights of Russ.

Boosting your fitness for surfing performance can be of high value, and take your surfing to new heights.

Any boxer in training will tell you that the training can be brutal; even one session of this type of training per week can be great! Your aerobic (with oxygen) and indeed your anaerobic (without oxygen) fitness will be taken to the max, your endurance can get a great boost, perfect for when its 5-6 foot and pumping!

In addition to the boxing training any other form of aerobic conditioning can be good biking, running and of course swimming can really make a difference to your paddle power and endurance; using kit like the Powerstroke cords will help with aerobic fitness and paddle power. Resistance training in this way can be highly beneficial to surfing strength.

If you are working on your aerobic fitness then try to develop all areas it’s no good keeping your heart rate (HR) at a nice light beat, to get true benefits you must try to take your (HR) up to its max on a regular basics, for more info on (HR) training go to wwwfit2surf.com In addition to Russell’s great approach to aerobic training under taking a light weights high rep training program can give the surfer additional strength. Keep the weights low and the reps high to boost your endurance this will keep your range of movement (ROM) good, go too heavy and you may find you pack on too much muscle, which could restrict your surfing performance, better to be a lean mean surfing machine!

If you’re still a young surfer try to hold back off the weights! At least wait until you are 16-17 years old. As you grow your body develops bones, ligaments and joints all need to develop properly, there’s plenty of time for a weight training program as you get older!

Sit ups, press ups, and indeed pull ups are all great own body weight exercises and with no kit needed they can be done anywhere! In addition to this type of training balance training can be highly useful, many of the balance kit available today like the BOSU and the Indo Board can be multi functional, as they can be used for so much more that balance improvement.

Using balance kit like the BOSU or the Indo can be very helpful in improving so many areas of your surfing; intensive multi directional movements that raise the (HR) will allow you to surf longer.

This type of kit can also be used for advanced functional training types that will aid injury prevention, boost your core strength and will improve muscle balance. Adopting a cool down flexibility program can leave you feeling fresh and ready for the next session, the benefits to a regular flexibility program for surfing are vast so adopt one today! smoothy anyone?

a Judo display when I was super young. I was always the only one that could do the box splits so I was last in the show and had to jump in the air and land in the splits. I’ve always been flexible but I’ve had to work at it. I can do the splits both ways, it’s got a little harder as I’ve got older but even after a few weeks of not stretching it soon comes back and I’ll be able to put my legs around my head and stuff quite quickly.

My coach used to really emphasise how important stretching was so I started doing it every night in front of the T.V. in the evenings. I had a booklet that I used to follow every night. It was the same as the Aussie pro’s were doing. Every night that I was doing it I was thinking about surfing and visualising how much it was helping my surfing. You really get in to thinking what it is all going towards. It was before yoga became popular, but with hindsight it was a very similar technique.

Lee Says: Another reason for Russell’s success in surfing is his commitment right from a young age to stretching.

Currently the research into the benefits is still growing however the fact is that a regular stretching program will definitely improve an athlete’s performance.

Stretching can aid posture, help prevent injury, aid in recovery even these few factors to start will improve surfing performance. There are many types of stretching some of which many not be suitable for all surfers, however adopting a regular flexibility program from a young age will keep your muscles long and in good shape, cool down stretching after a surfing session will help return your muscles, ligaments and tendons back to a normal resting state, leaving you fresh and ready to rip the next day!

Russ Says:

Due to my interest in Judo I’ve been stretching from as far back as age seven. I can remember being part of

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Limber up…

Visualisation Russ Says:

One year when I was in the British team and we were going to the world titles in Japan, part of the preparation was visualisation exercises with a coach.

We talked about the waves we were going to catch, what was going to happen on each wave, keeping your surfing fluid and smooth etc. I still use those techniques but I do it while I’m watching the waves before I surf. I look at sections and mind surf them, it helps me get in the rhythm with the waves, plan moves in certain sections and get amped up to go out there and shred. With new moves, especially with airs and more technical moves I study video’s, especially surfers like Taj, Andy and Jordy. They give me the ideas to go out and do it. I don’t try to emulate them though.

Because everyone’s style is different, some people surf more over their front foot, some one may launch differently etc. I just find that I am interested in how they launch in to the move and how they land. The bit in the middle is the bit that you do with your own style I find.

Lee Says:

Stretching

Get in the zone…

Pre visualisation before any competition can be highly effective at preparing the athlete for competition.

Thousands of athletes across the globe are using it to prepare their minds for the race or event; we’ve all seen the start of the men’s 100m sprint on the TV, at the Olympics or another major athletics event. The runners prep out there race in their heads maybe 2-3 times this indeed prepares the body for action, standing on the water’s edge just before your heat as with Russ is no different from that.

In addition to visualisation skills being used just before your head out for a free surf or event go over one move a day if you have a moment to yourself.

To be continued…

And you too can get freaky!

//Coaching weekends Russ Winter is holding a series of coaching weekends this year in association with Carve Magazine. The weekends are aimed at surfers that can surf but want to improve using Russ's vast experience, video coaching, photography and manouevre clinics. He is also hosting a coaching camp in Morocco from October 31 to November 7.

Check out carvemag.com for more details.

PHOTO: MIKE SEARLE

How to surf longer, catch more waves, and boost your performance.

“The exercises in this book will help you take your surfing to the next level” BEN SKINNER 2009 European Longboard Champion

on sale now!

ANNOTATED PHOTOS

208 page version_Layout 1 17/02/2010 15:21 Page 160

bosu balance traInIng

basic core 2 the front plank

3 scissor plank Advanced exercise for stability during paddling. the start position Start the scissor plank in the front plank position. With your elbows in line with your shoulders and keeping your abdominals tight, lift one leg.

As previously suggested before you start pay attention to the surface your exercising on. You should try to exercise on a cushioned non-slip surface where possible to avoid injury.

The Complete Guide To Surfing Fitness by Carve’s resident fitness guru Lee Stanbury brings together all the latest knowledge and techniques to offer a complete training programme for beginners to pros. Illustrated with over 150 annotated photos and inspiring surf images, the guide covers everything from stretching and flexibility exercises to core strength, resistance training and plyometrics. Also covered is the use of exercise equipment such as Swiss balls, Indo boards and Bosu balls as well Project2_Layout 1 17/02/2010 16:12 Page 1 as a swimming programme and tips for young surfers. Plus there’s no need to join a gym as all the exercises can be done at home.

On sale now at orcashop.co.uk and all good bookstores and surf shops. RRP £19.99 the complete guide to

the start position Lift your body completely off the ground, transferring your body weight onto your elbows and toes. Contract your abdominals and relax your shoulders.

2 v-sIt wIth counter rotatIon

1 push-up wIth platform tIlt

Exercise for stability during paddling The front plank is also a static exercise that will strengthen your abdominals, back and shoulders. It specifically strengthens the transverse abdominals which are the deepest layer of abdominal muscle, that wraps around your whole mid section.

Keep your leg straight and your back and head parallel to the floor throughout the exercise.

The goal of this exercise is to challenge your upper body strength and core stabilisation. If you are looking for any improvement in your paddle strength, this is a great exercise when combined with a total body training programme.

the sides of the platform. With straight arms, align your chest over the centre of the platform. Bend your elbows, lowering your chest towards your hands and press back up into the start position. Make sure you maintain a good body alignment.

the start posItIon Turn the BOSU dome side down so that the platform is facing up. Begin in either a press-up position, or a kneeling press-up position (depending on your level of fitness), with your hands grasping the recessed grips on

Keeping your elbows extended, tilt the platform slightly to one side allowing your entire body to tilt. Keep your core muscles contracted for stabilisation. Tilt the platform back to a level position.

the body is in a bent knee v-sit position. Hands may be placed on the sides of the dome, or may be lifted for more balance challenge. Holding the v-sit position, slowly lower your knees to one side while rotating your torso in the opposite direction. The rotation of your torso should counter balance the movement of your legs.

the start posItIon Sit up with your hips positioned directly on top of the dome. Lean back slightly, then lift one leg at a time until

Return to the start position and alternate sides. Keep the movement slow and controlled. Don’t allow the lower back to become rounded at any time during the exercise.

Try to maintain a good straight body alignment throughout.

Keep breathing easy and relax your neck.

Alternate a single push-up with a tilt to one side. Repeat the push-up and tilt to the other side. Each push-up/tilt equals one repetition. Repeat 12-15 reps with 20 seconds rest.

Hold the exercise for as long as you can and contract your abdominals constantly throughout the exercise.

Repeat this as many times as you can, be sure to contract your abdominals constantly throughout the exercise.

improves stability during paddling, strengthens abdominals, back and shoulders and adds a real boost to your core strength.

improves your transverse abdominals, your balance & co-ordination

32

advancIng the exercIse You can advance this exercise further by lifting one leg during the movement.

EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS indo board exercises 4 bicep curl into a shoulder press

Difficulty Level - Beginner to Intermediate

the start position Start with your feet hip width apart and the weights by your hips. Bending your arms at your elbows slowly raise the weights towards your shoulders with your palms facing inwards. Twist the weights so your palms are facing outwards and shoulder press them upwards.

5 indo board press ups

Difficulty Level - Intermediate

The Indo board press-ups will challenge your core further and at the same time boost your lower back strength. the start position Start the exercise as you would a normal press up only this time place your hands at either end of the Indo board. Keep your back straight and feet slightly apart. Slowly lower into a press-up movement and just before your chest reaches the Indo board push back up.

Keeping your head up will help you to balance during the exercises

Repeat 8-12 reps with 20 seconds rest then repeat.

improves balance, paddle strength and core strength advancing the exercise You can advance this exercise further by raising your feet off the ground when executing the press-up. For an example see the next exercise.

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208 page version_Layout 1 17/02/2010 15:24 Page 68

plyometric t r a i n i n g ­Plyometrics­ for­exPlosive­surfing Power

Explosive speed and power are major components of your total surfing strength and are found in varying degrees in virtually all athletic movements. Over the years many sports coaches have used jumping and bouncing exercises to enhance athletic performance. This type of training in recent years has become known as plyometrics.

Plyometrics is a term now used to describe any method of training that enhances your explosive movements.

Repeat 8-12 reps with 20 seconds rest then repeat as many times as possible.

Improves balance, paddle strength and core strength

160

what­is­Plyometric training?

Be sure not to lock your arms straight at the end of the movement. Slowly reverse the exercise to bring the weights back to the start position.

To make things easier, lift only one leg and keep the other on the floor as you counter-rotate the legs and torso.

Improves balance, paddle strength and core strength

33

By using high-quality and multi-directional drills, explosive movement and response times

can be improved. Speed and agility are undoubtably highly desirable qualities in all surfing movements. Basic plyometric training in your training programme will sharpen your surfing movements making them faster.

Like many surfers, if you are not able to surf as often as you would like, explosive plyometric training will help keep you sharp while strengthening your body movements at the same time.

getting­started­with the­basics

• It is very important to warm up before a plyometrics session with a light stretch.

• Avoid landing on your heels exercising on a hard surface, grass is ideal.

1­alternating­squat­thrusts­into­a­surfing­PoP­uP the­start­Position In a press-up position with your hands shoulder width apart, extend one leg back and the other leg forward towards your chest. Bring your extended leg forward and at the same time extend your bent leg, switching positions. Repeat this 6 times, then at speed move into a surfing pop-up, staying low for a split second. Then repeat your squat thrusts 6 times.

• Use only your body weight: all movements should be explosive with 100% effort.

• Avoid plyometric training two days in a row. Give yourself time to recover!

• A constant work rate is

important, so make sure you rest for 60-90 seconds after each set.

• As your strength increases you can rest for a shorter period.

The benefits of plyometrics on surfing can be great. However they can be greatly reduced unless you train at least once a week and basic progression takes place. For major improvements in explosive power I recommend two or three 20-30 minute workouts a week as a good start.

Keep this going for 30-40 seconds and complete 3-4 sets with 30 seconds rest after each. As you get fitter you can extend the length of time that you work for. a­quicker,­more­fluid­PoP-uP

improves balance, paddle strength and core strength 155

155

INSPIRING PHOTOGRAPHY

68

69

208 page version_Layout 1 17/02/2010 15:23 Page 90

reSiStance Band training 5 Seated row the Start poSition Place the band around a step, or another suitable, stable piece of equipment. Lean back to tension the band and raise your arms horizontally in front of you. Once you have moderate tension pull your elbows backwards bringing your hands towards your chest and squeeze your shoulder blades together.

Keep your head up and your back straight throughout the exercises

m e d i c i n e

ball t r a i n i n g

If you don’t have a step or any other suitable equipment, you can wrap the bands around your feet.

Repeat this for 12-15 reps to start. Increase reps as your strength improves.

fitness

The goal of this exercise is to challenge your abdominal and lower back muscles as they work to stabilise this balance position. This exercise can improve torso movements during surfing. If you’re an advanced surfer or a competing surfer, then this exercise on the BOSU can be invaluable in gaining additional strength.

improveS paddle Strength & your pop-up power

90

69

rfns suw to

The first British seaside resort is a historic and chilled town on the North Sea coast of Yorkshire. It’s also got plenty of waves…

Slots.

sands.

Background: The ‘Boro was first settled

by Vikings in the 11th century, however the town was short lived as it was burned and massacred by a rival Viking gang (standard Saturday night on the lash? Ed). The castle that dominates the seafront was built in snacks. the 12th century and the ‘Fair’ of legendary song fame ran for 500-years from 1253 and was popular with merchants from all over Europe. People started visiting for the Spa in the 17th century and the seaside holiday was born. The iconic Grand Hotel overlooking South Bay was one of the largest hotels in the world when built and survived a German naval bombardment in WWI. Getting there: A hefty motorway drive from anywhere down south and decent trunk roads to the west and north. Nearest airport is Leeds, which is serviced by Ryanair. Odds on if you are going then you’ll be driving.

Beware of the parking permits in town, if you ain’t got one then you can be fined, BnBs will give you one for your dash or buy one from a corner shop.

Waves: In the ‘Boro itself there’s the fun and chunky peaks of the North Bay or the beginner friendly sheltered beach at South Bay. The mythical Luna Left breaks to the N of the harbour on 50-year storms. Cayton Bay on the southern edge of town is the main surf zone, great beachy and the fearsome Cayton Point. Plenty of other waves in the area for those prepared to explore.

Swell info: It’s all about north swells in Yorkshire. A big N coming down teamed with an offshore SW wind and you’ll be loving life. Unlike the SW there are plenty of spots that handle a big swell as well; Cayton Point can hold as big as you like, as can some of the off the radar

118 carve surfing magazine

Nick Lloyd somewhere in the ‘Boro.

reefs. The beachies can be fun in onshore E swells and the South Bay in particular can light up on rare SE swells from small North Sea lows.

Best time: Whenever the conditions are right! Some years are good, some years are bad, there’s no method to it. Locals will complain of three-month flat spells or froth that they’ve surfed every day for three weeks.

Rubber: The North Sea gets cold. Real cold. Being shallower than the Atlantic it loses its heat quickly in winter and gets mind-numbingly, single digit cold and there’s no Gulf Stream love there. So a good hooded 6 or 5mm is essential for a good chunk of the year. Some guys don’t take their gloves and boots off all year. End of summer early autumn can be comparatively quite pleasant.

Where to stay: An abundance of B&Bs from cheap through to boutique. The Rockside and Helaina on the North Bay cliffs are run by local surfers. There’s camping and caravan parks in the area as well.

Eating out: You really are spoilt for choice in the ‘Boro, fish and chips are a standard (although officially Whitby just up the coast has the best!) and there’s great Italian, Thai, Chinese, Indian options. Anything you want basically at good prices.

Hazards: • The cold. You may think you know what being cold is

all about but until you have experience the North Sea in March you know nothing. This is where you really find out if your suit and accessories are working.

• Landslides. Yup. Not an everyday worry for most but a real threat in the area, especially around Cayton Bay. Access to the north end of the bay is under threat for that very reason. So don’t be cavalier around cliff edges…

Unless you want to take the biggest drop of your life.

• The nightlife. For a medium sized town the ‘Boro parties pretty hard and you’ll never be short of someone to have a drink with. The local surfers are a good crew to get on the sauce with.

Flat day fun: • Get arty. The famous playwright Alan Ayckbourn is based there and his plays and many others get put on at the theatre just up the road from Secret Spot surf shop.

• Air hockey etc. The South Bay is lined with amusement arcades and similar distractions. So you’ll never be short of things to do, shoot, hit, dance, etc. Bring some 2p coins.

• Culture. The castle and harbour/old town area are worth a wander as is the Spa to the south of South Bay. • Ride. The forests behind the town are a mountain bikers heaven with trails going from lethal to expert mentalist.

• Walk. Spectacular coastal walks either way from town.

Who knows what you might find…

photos sharpy

Scarborough

directory // 119

e: contact@surfmaroc.co.uk t: +44 (0) 1794 322709 w: www.surfmaroc.co.uk SM_AD.indd 1

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photos: mike searle

Remember, surf coaching isn’t only for novices that want to try the sport for the first time. Coaching is available for surfers of all abilities. Some of the countries top surfers offer their services to help iron out your cutback, sort out your style or help you to win a national title.

With Magic Seaweed and other surf forecasting websites it’s fairly easy to pick a day that is four or five days ahead that you can see has suitable conditions (most surf schools will be cool with you booking in advance by a few days, except for the busiest of times in August).

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An ideal forecast for learners would be two-foot waves, a light offshore wind and if you can juggle your time off, try to learn during the week as it will be much quieter than the weekend. Also rainy summer days are much quieter than sunny days. After all, you’re getting wet anyway so rain or shine doesn’t really matter. If you have to book your surf lesson weeks or months in advance check out the online beach guides to make sure you will be using a beach that is suitable for riders of all abilities. When you book, double check with the person that you speak to which beach you will be using, what the tidal position will be at the time of your lesson and

how busy they expect the beach to be. Most surf schools require their clients to be 8 years old and upwards.

There is no upper age limit, every pupil just needs to be able to swim 50 metres in open water. Before choosing a school check out their website. The schools that are run professionally and offer good customer service and safety standards soon get a good reputation quickly. Ask around and do some investigation on the web.

The majority of UK schools vary from £20 - £35 for a 2-3 hour beginner group lesson, all equipment included.

This can rise to £50 for a more advanced lesson and up to £90 for an individual one to one lesson. Prices can

summer schools out for

your surfing experience. e ov pr im n ca g hin ac co How surf Teaching someone to surf is a bit like teaching someone to drive. Unless you've got the patience of Nelson Mandela you’ll end up either arguing or getting nowhere fast. The temptation for the have-a-go-surf-coach to go out and catch waves themselves is too much for anyone but a saint to ignore.

With an ever changing playing field, the crazy amount of variables involved and the surf fitness that is required, learning can be a slow, tiring and tricky process.

Take a look at other sports- tennis, golf, skiing and football. It's standard to be coached and take lessons if you hope to get anywhere. If you have a friend or family member that wants to learn to surf, book them into a surf school. It will save them hours of struggling on their own, using clear, developed techniques to get to their feet and enjoy the waves. Most schools have a 70% stand up rate in the first lesson, after a week of lessons a newbie will have learned skills that could have taken them a year or more to grasp through struggling on their own.

Getting the right coaching in the correct environment can decide whether someone falls in love with surfing or falls at the first hurdle. But what makes a good surf school?

According to the British Surfing Association (BSA) there are 97 surf schools in the UK now.

vary depending upon competition, local area, time of year and so on. Remember that cheap isn’t necessarily good, you will find that you pay for what you get with regards to quality and group size. The top coaches in the country will charge upwards of £100 for a session, often including video analysis, feedback and goal setting.

So you’ve had your first lesson, now you’re hooked. Where now?

After your first lesson a novice surfer can benefit from more coaching from a school at the correct level for their ability. This would offer knowledge and experience in:

• Outback surfing • Ocean awareness • Surfing etiquette • Correct equipment for ability • Surfing and paddling technique • Board control • Safety By taking tuition, then clocking up water time to perfect the new techniques, then going for further coaching the incline of your surfing learning curve should be steep.

Coaching is the responsible way to learn to surf and it's an investment as you'll learn quicker and as a result enjoy

it more!

As you continue to improve with your surfing you will occasionally feel as though you’ve reached a plateau in your performance. That’s a great time to get some coaching. Often a few simple words of advice and a demonstration can make a huge difference. Once you are analysed by a professional coach using video feedback you will realise the many ways that you can quickly improve.

Surfing is all about having fun, getting some pointers to improve your enjoyment is the key to taking your riding experience to the next level.

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surf school guide

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Errant Surf Travel & Instruction

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Rip Curl English Surfing Federation Surf School

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Lusty Glaze Surf School

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West Cornwall Adventure

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With private access to Newquay Bay, heated changing rooms, a BIG selection of surfing equipment and some of Europe’s most experienced surf coaches, Errant’s surf school in Newquay is the ultimate surf training centre in the UK. Tel: 01637 851403 or 07833296170 E-mail: escape@errantsurf.com Web: www.errantsurf.com Address: Trebarwith Hotel, Trebarwith Crescent, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 1BZ

We are a BSA Centre of Excellence based overlooking Fistral beach in Newquay. We offer daily surfing and bodyboarding lessons for all ages and abilities. Check out our range of weekend coaching events there’s something for everyone!

Tel: 01637 879571 Email: Rob@englishsurfschool.com Website: www.ripcurlesfsurfschool.com Address: The Rip Curl English Surfing Federation Surf School, Carnmarth Hotel, 22 Headland Road, Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1HN

Surf Steps

Surf Steps are the only BSA Centre of Excellence based on the South Coast and the closest to London.

Tel: 0800 043 7873 or 07733 895538 Email: info@bournemouthsurfschool.co.uk Web: www.bournemouthsurfschool.co.uk Address: Toft Steps, Undercliff Drive, Bournemouth, BH5 1BN

devon

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Dolphin Surf School and Lodge

Established for fourteen years, our professional coaches will take you to a variety of beaches. Stay at our luxury accommodation.

Tel: 01637 873707 / 07974 629381 Email: info@dolphinsurfschool.co.uk Web: www.surfschool.co.uk Address: 17 Eliot Gardens, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 2QE

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Fun, safe surf lessons on a privately owned beach in Newquay. Part of The Adventure Centre at Lusty Glaze Beach.

Tel: 01637 872444 Email: info@adventure-centre.org Website: www.adventure-centre.org Address: Lusty Glaze Beach, Lusty Glaze Road, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 3AE

Surf South West

British Surfing Association ‘Centre of Excellence’. The first B.S.A. Level 4 Centre. Learn, improve, excel with the surfing professionals. Established 1996.

Tel: 01271 890400 Email: info@surfsouthwest.com Web: www.surfsouthwest.com Address: Croyde Bay, Devon. EX33 1NZ & Saunton Beach, Devon. EX33 1LG

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Point Breaks UK Ltd

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Walking on Waves

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Discovery Surf School

The first surf school in Croyde, lessons are a massive 3½ hours, ratio is 1:6. You’ll be standing in no time.

Tel: 07776 148 679 Email: james@pointbreaks.com Web: www.pointbreaks.com Address: Meeting Place: Baggy Point National Trust Car Park, Croyde.

WOW! Surf with former British Champion. Safest, best beach to learn. Professionial Coaching by your side in the waves.

Tel: 07889363051 Email: sarah@walkingonwaves.co.uk Web: www.walkingonwaves.co.uk Address: Breakers, Saunton, Braunton, N.Devon, N. Devon, EX33 1LG

Run by Martin and Annika Connolly, Discovery Surf School provides professional coaching for all ages and abilities with an emphasis on safe, quality tuition in small groups.

Tel: 07813 639622 E-mail: martin@discoverysurf.com Web: www.discoverysurf.com Address: Bigbury-on-Sea, South Devon AND Whitsand Bay (West of Looe, South East Cornwall)

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West Cornwall has some of the most beautiful and best surfing beaches in England, there's no better place to learn to surf.

Tel: 07773 380604 E-mail: info@westcornwalladventure.co.uk Website: www.westcornwalladventure.co.uk Locations: Portreath. Poldhu Cove, Mullion.

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Surf’s Up Surf School

Family run business started in 1995, now a BSA ‘Centre of Excellence’. Top level coaching for beginners to Elite surfers Tel: 01208 862003 Email: info@surfsupsurfschool.com Website: www.surfsupsurfschool.com Address: The Beach House, Polzeath, Wadebridge, PL27 6TB

scotland 12

Clan Surf Adventures

Scottish north west and east coast surf trips. Established 1991. Dedicated to seeking the best waves our coast can offer. Always!

Tel: 0141 339 6523 Email: info@clanskates.co.uk Web: www.clanskates.co.uk Address: 45 Hyndland Street, Partick, Glasgow

ireland 13

Bundoran Surf Co.

Bundoran Surf School offers surf lessons all year round for all ages and abilities. Week long surf camps for kids and adults.

Tel: 071 9841968 / 087 9572924 Email: info@bundoransurfco.com Website: www.bundoransurfco.com Address: Bundoran Surf Co., Main Street, Bundoran, Co. Donegal, Ireland.

TheSurfDirectory e a t

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Surf South West since 1996 south west

s u r f

• Surf Schools • Surf Holidays • Intermediate Coaching Tel 01271

890400

www.surfsouthwest.com

Wherever you want to go in Britain and Ireland, check it out at

www.thesurfdirectory.co.uk You’ll spend more time in the water with The Surf Directory.

carve surfing magazine 123

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// RESULTS

Quiksilver Welsh Nationals

photos: adrian lincoln

Tom Good took top honours in part one of the split run Quiksilver Welsh Nationals in 2-3ft clean waves at Freshwater West taking the U18 Junior title.

With the event split into two due to a poor forecast, contest director Bateman opted to run the kids events coupled with the Masters which proved to be an excellent call. Greeted with bigger than expected waves, warm weather and light winds there was no excuses for our competitors.

Tom Good was the outstanding surfer in the Junior division with precise critical turns coupled with new school airs the Newquay based Welshman added yet another title to a growing collection and is tipped to feature strongly in the Open event rescheduled for June 5-6.

A massive thank you to Quiksilver, The National Trust, The Pembrokeshire Parks, The Christian Surfers, Jamie Bateman, Anne and Kate Blyth, Bob Freshwater, Andrew Pelosi, Norman Wright, Lloyd Cole, Anne-Marie Hughes and all who judged, helped and made the event a success.

Under 18’s 1. Tom Good 2. David Williams 3. Jack Hughes 4. Connor Griffiths Under 16’s 1. David Williams 2. Max Payne 3. Jack Davies 4. Connor Griffiths Under 14’s 1. Jack Davies 2. Max Payne 3. Nathaniel James 4. Owen Alexander Under 12’s 1. Max Payne 2. Callum Howells 3. Ciaran Hughes 4. Hal Gaskell Under 18 Girls 1. Olivia Jones 2. Patsy Poutney 3. Millie Little Under 18 Longboard 1. Connor Griffiths 2. Will Poutney 3. Kirk Lester 4. Joshua Hocking Masters 1. Greg Owen 2. Mark Vaughan 3. Ian Thomson 4. Grayson Richards Paul Ryder Award Kirk Lester

Euro Juniors

photos: karin seelow

Josh Le Marquand takes a gold medal back to the Channel Islands! France win another Euro Junior Championships but Portugal take them to the wire. England team improve with a 4th place finish.

The Channel Islands Joshua Le Marquand and England’s Zak Lawton provided the best home nations results at the 2010 European Junior Championship, taking first and second place in the under 18 longboarding respectively. The euro Junior champs took place at Viana do Castelo, Portugal the 7-16 of May. The week was cursed with wet weather and lumpy waves that were predominantly in the three foot region, the standard of surfing was none the less excellent

though. Le Marquand used a combination of classic and progressive longboarding manoeuvres to take the win.

Zak pushed him all the way though, being pipped by 1.29 points.

The team event was won by France when Dimitri Ouvre blasted a sick air reverse in the final seconds of the under 18 final to win the division and snatch the team title from Portugal in one of the closest fought competitions in the championships history. England placed fourth overall just behind the Spanish, Portuguese and French

teams. England improved on their 2008 placing of fifth.

The German team pushed England all the way with the strongest team that they’ve ever fielded. A team that had a distinct Canarian feel to it!

Irelands highest finisher was Odhran Mcgovern in the under 16 bodyboard. Wales’ Connor Griffiths placed a credible sixth in the under 18 longboard. England’s Luis Eyre was unlucky not to make the grand final of the under 18’s after shredding through the event only to lose a tight heat and place fifth over all.

// RESULTS Team Placings 1 France, 2 Portugal, 3 Spain, 4 England, 5 Germany, 6 Ireland, 7 Wales, 8 Belgium, 9 Italy, 10 Channel Islands, 11 Holland, 12 Morocco, 13 Sweden

directory // 125

Stunning affordable luxury accommodation in the heart of Newquay with amazing sea views, style and comfort. Located a stones throw walk to the beach, ‘The Pad’ is an ideal spot for surfers, walkers and those who need a break from the city life or for a great holiday right near the beach.

Sleeps 6 people comfortably Private enclosed sun terrace with gas BBQ facilities Outside Surf Storage Racks and area for drying wetsuits TV, WIFI/DVD Player/IPOD docking station Walking distance from railway & bus station Overnight and Short Breaks Available Single sex parties/stag and hen parties welcome Close to breathtaking coastal walks and footpaths Check out the views on the webcam at dudesmodernbarbers.com

30 Fore Street, Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1LN Tel: 01637 859795 Mobile: 07815 717342 Part of the Dudes Modern Barbers Chain Email: dudesltd@btinternet.com www.thepadnewquay.co.uk www.dudesmodernbarbers.com

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lucia griggi

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Protest English Nationals

During the two-day new season opener at Watergate Bay some of the hottest talent and emerging stars of the future of English surfing battled it out for the top spots at the event where national titles and pride were at stake.

jason feast

// RESULTS

lucia griggi

jason feast

126 carve surfing magazine

lucia griggi

Protest sponsored rider, Sarah Beardmore, 26, won every heat on her way to a resounding victory in the final to win the women’s division. Hannah Harding from Harlyn came second ahead of North Devon pair Karma Worthington and Lucy Campbell.

English surfing super-stars Oli Adams, Johnny Fryer, Reubyn Ash, Sam Lamiroy and Tom Butler were showing their supremacy in the early rounds but as the conditions got tougher with howling northerlies, the kids started to assert their claim to glory. North Devon pair Stuart Campbell and Lyndon Wake made the final along with Newquay dark horse Tom Earl but it was St. Ives wonder kid Jayce Robinson who dominated the final to take his first major title and serve notice that their may be a changing of the guard.

Ben Skinner wiped the floor with all comers to take the longboard division for the umpteenth time and four times British Champion Lee Bartlett proved there was still life in the old dog by claiming the Senior and Masters titles.

Contest director, Ester Spears, said: "Big thanks to Protest for sponsoring the English Nationals this year, it was a hardcore surfing event with some outstanding performances from the cream of English surfing.”

Cadets U16 Boys 1. Luke Dillon 2. Jobe Harriss 3. Liam Turner 4. Myles Lee Hargraves Youth U14 Boys 1. Ed Smith 2. Tas Knight 3. Dale Foster 4. Liam Murray Girls U18 1. Tassie Swallow 2. Laura Crane 3. Jemima Knight 4. Harriet Knight Boys U18 Longboard 1. Zak Lawton 2. Lewis Stritch 3. Peter Loopstra 4. Alex Maddocks Veterans 1. Anthony Weight 2. Tony Good 3. Matt Knight Masters 1. Lee Bartlett 2. Chris Harris Women’s Longboard

1. Candice O’Donnell 2. Nicola Bunt 3. Grace McDavies 4. Harriet Knight Seniors 1. Lee Bartlett 2. Eugene Tollemache 3. Tom Pope 4. Chris Harris Junior U18 Boys 1. Jobe Harris 2. Alex Baker 3. Luis Eyre 4. George Picking Longboard 1. Ben Skinner 2. James Parry 3. Ben Howarth 4. Sam Bleakley Womens 1. Sarah Beardmore 2. Hannah Harding 3. Karma Worthington 4. Lucy Campbell Open 1. Jayce Robinson 2. Lyndon Wake 3. Tom Earl 4. Stuart Campbell

Sundowner

Sessions

in association with carve surfing magazine

Ocean Colour Scene Acoustic Set from Simon Fowler and Oscar Harrison

Flying Fish

plus support

Martin Harley

Retro classic plus Longboard speciality event

photo: lucia griggi

Where: Lusty Glaze Beach, Newquay When: Sunday, July 4th

£500 prize money BBQ • Cool tunes • Cocktails

Tickets £12.50 from www.livemusicconnections.co.uk Contest entrants go to www.carvemag.com

finoarle sc

courtesy blu

BLU Perranporth The British Longboard Union held the first round of the British Longboard Championships at Perranporth over the weekend of 8-9 May.

courtesy blu

The event had been postponed from a fortnight earlier due to lack of contestable surf and the organisers were met on Saturday morning with marginal conditions and no forecast of improvement. However the decision was made to get the lightweight divisions in first, these included the new U16 Boys and U16 Girls divisions. Junior divisions were well supported at this first event, such that the BSA are hoping to run a coaching clinic in the next month or so for the youngsters.

Sunday brought slightly smaller conditions that favoured the lighter competitors. The Open heats were closely scored affairs with score sheets showing that highly scored rides only came along now and again.

In the Open Final, last year’s champion Ben Skinner took first after a count back with James Parry, both showing some great nose rides in what were by now marginal (small) wind waves.

The Ladies were well represented, also with some new faces. Candice O’ Donnell took 1st place with last year’s winner, Grace Davies taking second.

Returning competitor Sophie Skinner took 3rd place with newcomer Karma Worthington taking 4th spot.

In the Juniors, following a lot of last year’s competitors coming of age (18yrs) a new contingent of Juniors have populated the heat sheets, particularly the U18 & U16 Boys, both divisions keenly contested. Up and coming talents Liam Meneer, Lewis Stritch and Alex Maddocks names to look out for in the future. It was good to see the Juniors numbers swelled to be able to populate two full semifinals.

Next round will be held at Saunton 22-23 May. Thanks to all our sponsors, Wateringhole Beach Cafe, Bathsheba Surf, Skinners, Rocky Point, Old Guy’s Rule, and the BSA for sanctioning the event.

BLU Saunton // RESULTS OPEN 1. Ashley Braunton 2. Ben Haworth 3. Chris Webb 4. Zak Lawton

LADIES 1. Candice O’Donnell 2. Juliet Marlow 3. Karma Worthington 4. Becky Stanhope

juniors u18 1. Zak Lawton 2. Josh Le Marquand 3. Liam Meener 4. Alex Maddocks

BOYS U16 1. Alex Maddocks 2. Conner Griffiths 3. Jack Unsworth 4. Ben Murray

GIRLS U16 1. Jenna Richard 2. Lucy Howell

// RESULTS Open 1. Ben Skinner 2. James Parry 3. Sam Bleakley 4. Ben Haworth Ladies 1. Candice O’Donnell 2. Gracie McDavies 3. Sophie Skinner 4. Karma Worthington Masters 1. Colin Bright 2. Adam Chell 3. Paul Keenan 4. Adrian Howell U18 Boys 1. Lewis Stritch 2. Liam Meneer 3. Josh Job 4. Alex Maddocks U16 Boys 1. Alex Maddocks 2. Liam Curtis 3. Josh Job 4. Jack Unsworth U16 Girls 1. Jenna Richards 2. Lucy Howell

MASTERS 1. Russel Pierre 2. Paul Keenan 3. Colin Bright 4. Shaun Marlow

Coaching from Europe’s most successful surfer

photo: will bailey

coaching weekends

improve your surfing with russ winter and sky rocket your performance!

dates 19-20 June 10-11 July 11-12 September 2-3 October Russ Winter Surf Coaching Trip to Morocco: 31 October to 7 November — Check Carvemag.com for further details!

learn from the best

to book: for info about russell winter coaching weekends, check out ripcurlesfsurfschool or call 01637 879571

the online surfshop

GoPro HD Camera £284.99 Silicone cover for HD £14.99

orca Surf

www.orcashop.co.uk mail order hotline: 01637 878074

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Quiksilver The Crush £69.99

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Quiksilver Caius £89.99

Resin8 Sam Egan Squashtail £580 the online surfshop

O&E board sock £25.99

Indo Ying Yang board and roller £110

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The Masked Ball 2010 was undoubtedly THE best Masked Ball yet. The Main tent was rocking to the incredible sounds of Japayork, and Ou est le Swimming Pool live aswell as top DJ sets from Hongkong pingpong, Luke Gledhill, Kid Cola, Jac The Disco and Louis Vanhinsberg. Sir Vinyl of the Fattest and Robin Parris had the place jumping from sunset to sunrise and the 3Cs bboys turned up to throw some shapes. The courtyard at Beaconham Palace housed a giant turntable dance podium, whilst inside the castle walls the throne was rocked by residential dance home and friends. Some lucky party goers found solace in the secret spaceship shot bar located through the dragons mouth, created by the Wonderkids from Barnfest!

Thursday 17 June sees the first UK Professional Surfers Flowriding Championships, a name they are gonna struggle to fit on the trophy, at Retallack Resort & Spa near Wadebridge. The event is a precursor to the Gul Night Surf UKPST event the following weekend. The event starts at 2pm. www.retallackresort.co.uk

missed by many.

Editor In Chief Steve-O would like to reassure some concerned readers that the article title in the last issue of CARVE ‘Thunder Down Under’ was in no way inspired by the following website – www.thunderfromdownunder.com.

He has never looked at it and does not own their DVDs. The Godrevy Pro Junior is the inaugural professional event hosted by the National Trust and sponsored by Shore Surf School and Gwithian Academy of Surf, and endorsed by the British Surfing Association as the first Junior British Team qualifying event to be held this year. It’s happening Saturday 26 June, check in is 08:00.

Surfers Against Sewage celebrate their 20th birthday this year and to help promote the cause, BIC Surf have got involved and now offer a year’s free SAS membership with each purchase of one of their surfboards.

Apologies to Hannah Crossley who took the ace pics of Stoker in Costa Rica in the last issue, we didn’t know yer name at press time and Mr Stokes was on planes/trains and automobiles on his way to Brazil for the WQS so wasn’t contactable. Check out more of her work here – www.hannahcrossleyphotography.com

www.talallaretreat.com in Sri Lanka are looking for a surfing coach not only with great talent in surfing and teaching but with some initiative to be able to help coordinate and promote surfing packages at Talalla, there will be a number of benefits for the teacher such as accommodation, commission and the option of private lessons. Contact Jessie at laurie@laurierose.com

7 May saw the unfortunate death of Noel Robinson a Northern Californian surfer/filmer at meaty Puerto Escondido. No one’s quite sure what happened but he took off on a standard right hand peak and never came up. A frantic search ensued but it took over an hour to find his body. He recently filmed Grant ‘Twiggy’ Bakers Billabong XXL ride of the year at Mavericks and will be

130 carve surfing magazine

Saturday 15 May saw Croyde Surf Club host their first social contest of the year the inaugural Mojito Pro. Devised on a twisted whim by a certain member of CSC Drinking Committee the event was billed as ‘All about the booze and Old Skool rules’ and it duly lived up to the boast.

A rag tag band of superhero’s, pirates, ninjas and a few competitive surfers assembled at Down End car park as Rob ‘Vlad the Impaler’ Whitney announced the tag team format which included shots of rum on the handover.

The four randomly selected teams armed with foamies formed up by the shore and the comp was go. With 2ft+ onshore waves and fancy-dress to contend with, the paddle out was no easy task and provided great entertainment to the watching crowd.

Surf highlights included the boy wonder Carlo Ferrero on a sweet right, Pirate Jon Knight waving his cutlass and hollering like a madman, but all of those are surpassed by the sight of Nutty in full pink panther suit being rescued by Pamela Anderson alike Charley ‘Baywatch’ Charlesworth.

Everyone then decamped to event sponsor and host, Bluegroove for results, drinks, nibbles and mayhem.

The contest winners were awarded jugs of Mojitos and it was the yellow team of Simon Daly, Dan Newsome, Matt Jenkins and Carlo Ferrere who grabbed glory along with Melvin Eveleigh with best wave and Ossian Pleasance with best manoeuvre for a twisty thing.

Then it was on to the Cheers Challenge Cup. Sponsored by Braunton’s Cheers bottle shop, the challenge consisted of a can of beer through the beer-bong followed by throwing a ping-pong ball into a selection of rum glasses and downing the drink so selected. The outstanding performance came from

d n a rf u S y n a p m Inter-co Battle d r a o b y Bod

PHOTO MIKE SEARLE

Y B ED T PRESEN 0 1 0 2 8 1 y l Ju

Tag Team Competition: Each team must include 4 SURFERS INCLUDING at least one girl surfer And an employee of the company. (all companies welcome, not just surf companies!)

After event party at The C Bar (The Carnmarth Hotel) Entry fee £50 per team ALL EVENT PROCEEDS GO TO THE ENGLISH SURFING FEDERATION Free Beer and a burger for all competitors CHECK CARVEMAG.COM FOR MORE INFO

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Carve, Surfgirl and ThreeSixty Magazines Rip Curl ESF Surf School The Carnmarth Hotel Rob Barber’s Bodyboarding School Coastline Coasteer

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the Cider Ninjas with clear champion Cicely Woodcock scoring an outstanding victory.

Official event timer and organiser Cotty said, “The highlight for me was the Cheers Challenge Cup and how Cicely smashed it in the closing seconds, I’ve never witnessed any one drink a can of beer so quick (9 secs) and not wanting to sound sexist, it was truly amazing for a girl.”

To see what the salty sea-dogs at CSC are up to log on and sign up to www. croydesurfclub.com Paddle Round The Pier is on again 3-4 July in Brighton.

The “Paddle” is known for its relaxed atmosphere and friendly vibe. Although the Paddle has a free entrance

lucia griggi

Looking for a job in the boardsports industry? Then check out www.aspom. com for roles with Europe’s biggest and best players like Billabong, O’Neill, Volcom, etc.

Hawaiian legend Marvin Foster has passed away age 48, he was fearsome performer in the North Shore juice in the era before the circus and renowned for his prowess at Backdoor.

Former European champion Grishka Roberts has created a company in conjunction with Quiksilver specializing in one to one and small group tuition. With a choice of surfboards and

132 carve surfing magazine

West Cornwall Adventure, a local company has teamed up with the National Trust to launch Boardriders 2010 at Poldhu Cove. Aimed at youngsters based on and around the Lizard and Mullion, Boardriders is designed to get local young people active and involved in surfing. The event takes place from 5-7pm every Friday at Poldhu Cove. go to www.westcornwalladventure.co.uk Russell Winter, Europe’s most successful surfer of all time has recently spent much of his time coaching the Acorn Blue English Junior Team in preparation for the recent European Junior Championships. The Russell Winter Coaching Weekends are designed to help surfers take their surfing to the next level. Russell stated, “We had great waves at Fistral and a great bunch of people to match, it was awesome to witness the progress everyone made over the course of the weekend”.

The weekend involved fourin-water coaching sessions plus video analysis and a tutorial from Russell regarding what to look for in a surfboard that would suit each individual. Each client was also presented with a disc of footage documenting all the action from the weekend.

The next Russell Winter coaching weekend will 19-20th June at the Rip Curl English Surfing Federation Surf School. For all enquiries please call Aidan on 01637 879571 or book online at ripculesfsurfschool.com.

Rapanui Clothing, a small Eco Surfwear brand from the Isle of Wight has won the Sustainable Business Awards for its commitment to sustainability and passion for doing business the right way. The brand, co founded by two under-25 year old brothers is the youngest business to win the award. More info at www. rapanuiclothing.com/eco In sponno news surfer/model Corinne Evans has been picked up by Fox Europe. She’s stoked with the deal and says it’s okay to call her ‘Foxy Lady’ from here on out.

Lyndon Wake is now sporting Carve Eyewear (nothing to do with us here at the mag!) Marketing manager Simon Tucker said, “Lyndon is a great ambassador for all his sponsors we are pleased to be able to help him. www. carveeyewear.com The Agent 18 Inter-company Surf and Bodyboard Battle,

Era adventures are offering lifeguard training courses and BSA Surf Coaching qualifications at Fistral Beach this summer. Call 01637 878074 and quote ‘Carve offer’ to get a discounted course then spend your summer working on the beach! Check carvemag.com for further details

win a weekend break! mike searle

policy, donations on the gates has allowed the Paddle to give more than £80,000 away to charity in the last few years. For more information please visit www.paddleroundthepier.com

Grishka’s in depth knowledge of all aspects of the sport he will have you on track in no time. From total beginners to advanced rippers he can tailor a package for you.

Prices start from £40 per person. Check out the website www.prosurftuition.co.uk for more info.

presented by Carve, The Rip Curl ESF Surf School and The Carnmarth Hotel is being held on July 18 at Fistral beach. The tag team event show cases teams of four surfers (3 men and 1 woman) who represent a company (one of the team need to be an employee and the company doesn’t need to be surf related, in the past there have been electrician’s, plumbers etc). Team Quiksilver will be defending their title after an epic win in huge surf last year. There's a huge bar b q party at the Carnmarth Hotel afterwards. Check carvemag.com for further details and an entry form.

To celebrate the opening of several new Newquay holiday apartment complexes designed with the surfer in mind, Blue Chip Newquay, in conjunction with SurfGirl, are offering readers the chance to win a three night short break in September. The winner will stay in a luxury one bedroom apartment with stunning sea views within the iconic Rocklands development overlooking Tolcarne Beach. Maximising views of Tolcarne beach and styled with contemporary interiors and furnishings, the apartments range in size from studio apartments right through to a three-bedroom penthouse. Storage for boards, downstairs wet-rooms, underfloor heating and easy access to the beach all add to the appeal of the apartments and they are available exclusively to couples and families – strictly no stags and hens!

Visit www.carvemag.com for your chance to win this fab prize. For more details on the apartments, visit www. bluechipnewquay.co.uk/carve or call 0844 5612001.

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Last year CARVE subscribers received a whole heap of discounts on DVDs, posters, books and travel guides. So don’t miss out – sign up and see what a year’s subscription holds for you!

SubSCRibE on LinE

oRCAShop.Co.uk oR phonE ouR mAiL oRDER hotLinE

01637 878074

ses sions

You may have noticed the surfs been pretty bum in Blighty the last few weeks, there was one little weekend of goodness but in the main not good. Irelands been consistent but small and the North Sea crew have been getting in more than the pasties. Hopefully the summer will deliver some decent hurricane based juice.

Don’t forget to submit your shots at carvemag.com TOP: Adam Griffiths toes on the nose at Fistral. Photo:

Lucia Griggi

ABOVE: Tom Butler tail high at Fisty during the sunny weekend super session. Photo: Lucia Griggi far right: Cheeky south coast swells have the benefit

of no north coast invasion. This is Oli at super fun Lev. Photo: Alex Young

right: North Cornwall grom Ben Bennett enjoying his

local Constantine. Photo: Ollie Howe

5 from the carvemag.com online gallery

upload your photos and you could win some great prizes!

Flags // Fistral Photo: grantlampard

Unknown surfer // St Ives, Cornwall Photo: markthecat

134 carve surfing magazine

‘Almost Heineken Greem’ // Indo Photo: nica

‘No More Room’ // St Ives, Cornwall Photo: markthecat

Clean peak // Porthleven, Cornwall Photo: loushort81

simon anderson >

Market Square Arcade, Copperhouse, Hayle, Cornwall TR27 4EA Email: downthelinesurf@btconnect.com • Tel: 01736 757025

www.downthelinesurf.co.uk

Boardriders • Hayle • Cornwall

photos courtesy base surfboards • www.basesurfboards.com

dick van straalen simon anderson dhd • jim banks webber • chilli morning of the earth murray bourton bear • mccoy pipedreams firewire

jim banks >

geoff mccoy >

new container of boards has now landed!

nesxute is

Owen Wright, waaaaaay up in the air like our next issue plans, but like the O-Dog we always land well. Photo: Shieldsy

You could say the next issue of CARVE is in a state of flux. We’ve got so much good stuff to bring you we’re not sure how or when to fit it all in. Maybe we can make the next mag in four dimensions to cram a load more goodness inside?

Maybe we’ll bring you a bizarre tale from Taiwan, for the island off China is holding.

Could be some nuts bombs in South Oz with Hicky, depending if we can find the photographer who’s gone AWOL. Then there’s the special issue in the pipeline but we don’t know yet if the planned plans will pan out. Who knows, hell, you never know we might actually get some decent waves in this country for a change. Assuming there are waves there will definitely be all the blood, sweat and tears from the UK Pro Tour events in Croyde and Newquay. That much we do know…

On sale: mid july

AVAILABLE IN: 7’0” 7’2” 7’4” 7’6” 8’0”

AVAILABLE IN: 8’6” 9’0” 9’2”

AVAILABLE IN: 6’6” 6’10”

AVAILABLE IN: 6’10” 7’0” 7’2” 7’4”

AVAILABLE IN: 6’0” 6’3” 6’6” 6’9”

AVAILABLE IN: 6’2” 6’4” 6’6” 6’8” 6’10”

ALDERSPORTSWEAR.COM

www.rusty.com

MATT CAPEL