SPIRIT LEVEL

For goodness sake

When a trip to Japan is impossible find a moment to say kanpai with sake, says Brooke Magnanti

ike most of the rest of the world my last few years have been something other than what was planned. In late 2019 my husband and I were planning a winter trip to Japan for our tenth anniversary, replete with backcountry ski touring, hot soaks in onsens and, of course, plenty of food and drink from Nagano to Hokkaido. And now? Our twelfth has been and gone, and still I am no closer to sampling sushi and sake slopeside. Not unless I take my own, that is.

Mr Belle, for those who don’t know (so pretty much all of you) lived some years in Japan where he taught English and trained in martial arts. We met not long after his return to the UK. Ever since I have been fascinated by tales of a land where seasonality and local ingredients mean everything, not only when it comes to the food, but also – dare I say especially – the drink. Sure, the Japanese love their beer and I am told do a great line in whisky, but sake was their thing, and so it became his thing. Seasonality may be the rule in Japan, but as regular readers will know I’m a traditionalist until I’m not. If we’re talking pizza or cocktails then yes, I will be that person. No pineapple to grace my Margherita, and no premix in my Margaritas. But sake, it seems to me, begs to break out of its chains and be taken to places it has never been before no matter what the calendar says. These days we live in the southern edge of the Rockies, where great massifs burst out of endless desert into a sky so blue it makes your eyes water. We are further from the ocean than Mr. B has ever lived. What even is seasonality at over a mile high, when you can be applying skins for an uphill ski in the morning, and sweltering in 30

Ldegree heat by the afternoon? Rules, as they say, are made to be broken. So armed with sunscreen, a backpack, and touring bindings, I load a backpack with Japanese treats and off we head for a high altitude lake that will hold ice until at least July. This time of year when the champagne powder melts into slush is perfect for cooling bottles of sake in the icy pockets between the aspens. To start with, a small bottle of Tozai Snow Maiden, bottled in delicate frosted pink, to toast the previous winter. Unfi ltered and lightly fruity, it has hints reminiscent of the radishes in my vegetable garden at home. This is followed by Hanagoi Happoshu. Made in Akashi City, it is bottle conditioned and sparkling like a fi ne Devon cider, perfect when chilled. And yes, we drink ours cold, when the style and weather suits. Because I can’t resist a good marketing angle, I picked out Marumoto Brewery’s Joto One Cup. It comes as a single serving in an unforgettable graffi ti-style package designed by street artist Shiro. In her homeland she is bigger than Banksy and I am hoping for the perfect blend of old and new, like the Japan I imagine. The contents live up to the image, with juicy watermelon notes foreshadowing what I hope will be a summer of joy and fruitfulness as the world wrenches itself out of pandemic darkness. We push on to the lake, half frozen and sparkling, with the sound of wind in bare branches and water tumbling over rocks. What good is honouring locality and seasonality only with drinks from half a world away? So for the North American angle we’ve chosen Momokawa Silver. I’m panting from the effort of hauling our things up this hill, my mouth is dry, and I’m looking forward to a leisurely ski back to the car – our last of this season. It’s a big ask for a drink to live up to the moment. Yet it does. It actually doesn’t come more traditional than this, light and minerally with an almost sourdough fi nish. Another refresher to serve cool when the temperature is hot. My husband smiles and snaps his boots into skis as we prepare to return to base and our normal life. It may not be the anniversary I dreamed of, but it will be one where memories are made.

SOTO

Meaning ‘outside’ in Japanese, this high grade Junmai Daiginjo sake boasts crisp hints of cucumber and melon with pepper and subtle fruitiness. The bottle is topped with a square of denim.

KANPAI KUMO

Distilled in Peckham, this sake is made using premium Japanese Gohyakumangoku sake rice. Cloudy sake lovers will enjoy its fruity hints and savoury finish. Perfect with curry or ice-cream.

AKASHITAI GINJO YUZUSHU

Infused with the flavour of yuzu fruit, this sake hails from the city of Akashi. The fruit is macerated in ginjo grade sake to provide a delicious citrus kick.

Beer

TWO THIRSTY MEN SPEY IPA

2 3.5 A traditional-style India pale ale from Grantown-on-Spey’s microbrewery, which now also has its own excellent bottle shop on the Strathspey town’s high street.

NOSE: Malty IPAs feel like they’re out of fashion these days, so the aromas of cinder toffee from the malt and lemon from the hops are a real treat.

PALATE: That malty theme continues on the palate, where it’s balanced by metallic hop tones. FINISH: It’s the hops that win out on the finish, which keeps the ale from getting too heavy and means a second can beckons.

Malty IPAs feel like they’re out of fashion these days, so the aromas of cinder toffee from the malt and lemon from the hops are a real treat.

WILLIAMS BROS JUICY JOKER NEW ENGLAND IPA

1.80 5

Joker IPA is among Williams

Bros’ best beers and here the Alloa-based brewery has triple hopped its classic to create a New England interpretation.

NOSE: Invigorating aromas of grapefruit and lemon slap you around the nose and get you ready for the ride ahead.

PALATE: Juicy by name and juicy by nature, with the citric bitterness from the hops balanced by a touch of rounded lemon curd.

FINISH: The metallic note from the hops isn’t overdone, while a marmalade richness completes the ensemble.

BELLFIELD MÄRZEN FESTIVAL LAGER

2.08 5.7 Edinburgh’s Bellfield Brewery scooped a gold medal at the Scottish Beer Awards for this classic Bavarian-style lager and it’s easy to see why.

NOSE: Lots of red apple on the nose and a twist of toffee too – really rich for a lager.

PALATE: Bellfield is famous for its balanced beers and Marzen continues that trend with its rich texture yet controlled toffee notes.

FINISH: The German hops – Hallertauer Mittelfrüh and Saphir – come to the fore on the finish with tangy, bitter lemon flavours. Gluten-free.

The German hops – Hallertauer Mittelfrüh and

Peter Ranscombe

WINE COLUMNIST AND DRINKS BLOGGER FOR SCOTTISH FIELD

scottishfield.co.uk/category/ grapegrain Peter has reviewed beer, wine, and spirits for Scottish Field magazine since 2014 and is a former CAMRA Champion Beer of Scotland judge.