26 minute read
CONNOISSEURS SELECTION
Befuddled by the dizzying range of drinks on offer? Feel the fog of confusion lift with our 9-page guide to what the real experts drink
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GLENALLACHIE 12 YO
SINGLE MALT
48 46 The colour is fabulous and the nose and taste do and the nose and taste do not disappoint. Glenallachie just not disappoint. Glenallachie just keeps getting better – the liquid keeps getting better – the liquid is spectacular and it’s one I always is spectacular and it’s one I always recommend that my customers recommend that my customers taste. This is one of the richest 12 year taste. This is one of the richest 12 year old drams I have had this year, I love old drams I have had this year, I love it. It’s now my ‘go to’. it. It’s now my ‘go to’.
NOSE: Almond, sultana cake, flambéed banana, vanilla pods, chocolate nibs and oak. PALATE: Rich caramel notes, marzipan and a good baked dark spongecake. There are hints of chocolate and mellow coffee and spice. FINISH: Leaves an oily mouthfeel which is smooth, rich and well balanced.
NOSE: Almond, sultana cake, flambéed banana, vanilla pods, chocolate nibs and oak. Cask and Still Magazine | 49 Speyside
TAMDHU 15 YO
SINGLE MALT
85 46 Located in the village of Knockando in Speyside, Tamdhu distillery is owned by Ian McLeod distillers. The whisky here is matured in the finest oloroso sherry casks. With over 100 years since the distillery was first opened, the traditional methods are still used to create this Speyside single malt.
NOSE: Tasty caramel notes, fabulous sherry notes with lots of dried fruits and dates. Some dark chocolate with cherries, ripe plums and raisins.
PALATE: Gingerbread and baking spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves). Toasted oak and vanilla. Dark cherry and red delicious apples. Creamy. FINISH: A nice peppery and oily long finish. There’s a lot of good stuff going on in this dram.
GLENFARCLAS 25 YO
SINGLE MALT
190 43 Glenfarclas means ‘valley of the green grass’ and the distillery was founded in 1836. In 1865 it was bought by John Grant, and his descendants still own and run the distillery making it truly independent.
NOSE: Booze-soaked cherries, chocolate, Christmas cake and dried fruits with a smidge of boiled sweets like cough candy, but very light and gentle.
PALATE: Deliciously and delicately spiced with cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg, with hints of hazelnuts. Slightly tangy with hints of aniseed. FINISH: Long and lasting with levels of rich spice and chocolate. It wouldn’t be out of place on a dessert menu.
Gillian Kirkland OWNER OF THE PIPER BAR AND WHISKY ENTHUSIAST
www.thepiperbar.com Gillian has owned the award-winning Piper Whisky Bar in Glasgow for eight years, and is incredibly passionate about whisky. She is a collector and is currently experimenting with some casks. She also enjoys exploring food and whisky pairings.
Each whisky in the Mac-Talla range has been carved by Islay’s weather-beaten shores. It’s a taste of the untamed that leaves a lasting impression. Let Mac-Talla take you on a taste journey across the island, allowing you to discover the depth and variety this perfect whisky making environment has to offer.
Terra, meaning “earth”, perfectly reflects the peat smoke in this expression, deriving its characteristics from Islay’s ground.
Mara, is Scottish Gaelic for “of the sea” and this cask strength expression has been heavily influenced by the Atlantic Sea Salt atmosphere that engulfs Islay. 15-Year-Old Strata, the plural of stratum, refers to the many igneous rock formations that are visible along Islay’s rugged but breath-taking shores and landscape.
For more information on Mac-Talla Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky, visit www.mactallawhisky.com
A TASTE JOURNEY ACROSS ISLAY.
Highlands, Islands& Campbeltown
DOUGLAS LAING ‘THE GAULDRONS’
BLENDED MALT
49 46.2 Meaning ‘bay of storms’, this is named after a beautiful beach off the west coast of the Kintyre Peninsula. The name matches its character, and it is made up of malt from two of the three Campbeltown distilleries. It seems to be agreed that it’s mostly Glen Scotia with a touch of something from Springbank added in there. How could that combo go wrong?
NOSE: Toffee sauce, brown sugar, light spice. PALATE: Vanilla, toffee, warming ginger. FINISH: Sweet, malty, fresh, maritime coastal notes.
named after a beautiful beach off the west coast of the Kintyre Peninsula. The name matches its character, and it is made up of malt from two of the three Campbeltown distilleries. It seems to
GLENGOYNE 21 YO
HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT
160 43 An oldie but a goodie! This was one of the drams that got Jen into whisky in the first place. As a local distillery it was one of the first on the list to try. After trying a few other standard single malts this sealed the deal with its liquid toffee and Christmas cake richness.
NOSE: Sweet, rich dried fruits, malt and sherry.
PALATE: Liquid toffee, sticky toffee pudding, Christmas cake and rich, deep spice notes. FINISH: Long, rich and fruity.
Jen Laird & Rachel Grant
CO-OWNERS, THE CALLANDER DRINKS CO.
www.callanderdrinkscompany.co.uk SCALASAIG SINGLE DISTILLERY VINTAGE –
TOBERMORY
INDEPENDENTLY BOTTLED MALT
67 46.5
We love most of what Tobermory produce and we raved about the first Scalasaig release, the
‘Island Hopper’ Blended Island Malt, so we couldn’t wait to try this and it didn’t disappoint. From four casks filled at the distillery in 2013 and then bottled in 2021 after an 18-month finish in the same oloroso casks that finished their previous release.
NOSE: Salty sea air, sweet malt and fruit.
PALATE: Peaches, vanilla custard and salted peanuts. FINISH: Creamy with hints of bitter dark chocolate and coastal salt.
Jen and Rachel founded The Grail in Doune in 2018 having worked in the industry for a number of years at distilleries, whisky shops and festivals. Today you can find them at the Callander Drinks Company which they opened in 2020. They also have a YouTube whisky channel.
PORT CHARLOTTE 10 YO
SINGLE MALT
45 50 Port Charlotte is a silent distillery that opened in 1829 and closed 100 years later. Bruichladdich acquired two of the distillery’s warehouses in 2007, which they now use to mature their Port Charlotte brand spirit, which was launched in 2001. Port Charlotte 10 YO uses a combination of first- and second-fill bourbon and second-fill French wine casks. NOSE: Smoked bacon slathered in sweet barbecue sauce. PALATE: Green apples, salted fresh shucked oysters and bonfire smoke. FINISH: Long with salted buttered toast, smoked hickory and chocolate covered raisins. A stunning combination of smokey and sweet. brand spirit, which was launched in 2001. Port Charlotte 10 YO uses a combination of first- and second-fill bourbon and second-fill French wine casks.
NOSE:
barbecue sauce.
PALATE:
oysters and bonfire smoke. FINISH: Long with salted buttered toast, smoked hickory and chocolate covered raisins. A stunning combination of smokey and
Islay
ARDBEG 25 YO
SINGLE MALT
900 46 Founded in 1815, Ardbeg went through tough times in the 1980s and 1990s being mothballed, sold and resold. It wasn’t until Glenmorangie took ownership that full production resumed in 1998. Ardbeg 25 YO was bottled in 2020 from rare casks during the 1990s aka ‘The Darkest Days’ when the distillery was hardly producing.
NOSE: A rich balance of creamy toasted vanilla, a new box of band-aids, mint, lemon zest and campfire smoke.
PALATE: Surprisingly spicy for a 25 YO, with light soot, black tea and stewed berries.
FINISH: Long smooth finish of caramel, sweet pipe tobacco and medicinal smoke. The price may be painful but the spirit is not!
LAGAVULIN 11 YO GUINNESS CASK FINISH OFFERMAN EDITION
SINGLE MALT
70 46 Lagavulin, Nick Offerman, and Guinness – what’s not to love? Great marketing aside, Lagavulin has had a reputation for quality since it was established in 1816. This expression may sound gimmicky but it certainly holds its own. This 11 YO Lagavulin is finished for four months in ex-Guinness beer barrels.
NOSE: Classic Lagavulin with medicinal peat, vanilla and salty sea spray.
PALATE: Fresh cut apples, tobacco, leather and rich roasted coffee. A day at Grandpa’s cabin complete with Nick Offerman staring at you from the bottle. FINISH: Medium long, with burnt ashes, wet autumn leaves and a bit of spice to round it out.
Amanda Young
DUCHESS OF ISLAY @DUCHESSOFISLAY
www.duchessofislay.com Amanda is a whisky collector, writer, and social media creator who educates and entertains new and old generations of whisky drinkers.
Perthshire
DEANSTON VIRGIN OAK
SINGLE MALT
37.95 46.37 Finished in virgin oak casks.
NOSE: Vanilla, honey, green apples with citrus zest.
PALATE: Toffee creams, candied fruits and ginger. FINISH: Spices, honey and sweet citrus oranges.
THE GLENTURRET 10YO PEAT SMOKED
SINGLE MALT
52 50
The Glenturret 10 YO Peat Smoked brings together the two-spirit styles of the distillery, matured in both first fill and second fill European and American oak casks.
NOSE: Bonfire, salty embers, and flamed orange zest.
PALATE: Warming peat smoke and soft spices with cinnamon and anise.
FINISH: Ash and charred wood, followed by zest and salted caramel.
EDRADOUR 2010 IBISCO SHERRY DECANTER 12
YO
SINGLE CASK, SINGLE MALT
105.95 58.6 Single cask, cask strength bottling of Edradour 12 YO.
NOSE: Deep rich forest fruits, spices, orange and ginger.
PALATE: Pepper and spice, rich, velvety, warming and oily.
FINISH: Long, rich fruits, chocolate orange.
Ewan Mc Ilwraith
OWNER, ROBERTSONS OF PITLOCHRY
www.robertsonsofpitlochry.co.uk Ewan bought Robertsons of Pitlochry in 2013, an award-winning whisky shop and tasting room. Robertsons have their own range of
Single Cask whiskies and a gin. A warm welcome is always on offer and friendly advice readily available at Robertsons of Pitlochry.
56 | Connoisseurs’ selection Lowlands
KINGSBARNS 2021 DISTILLERY RESERVE
SINGLE MALT
64.99 61.8 This is Kingsbarns’ latest annual release. The casks were hand release. The casks were hand selected by Isabella Wemyss, selected by Isabella Wemyss, production director at the distillery. production director at the distillery. The whisky was aged in first-fill The whisky was aged in first-fill Bourbon barrels and first-fill STR Bourbon barrels and first-fill STR (shaved, toasted and re-charred) (shaved, toasted and re-charred) red wine barriques. The result is a red wine barriques. The result is a fruity and light whisky imbued with fruity and light whisky imbued with sweet spice and orange flavours. sweet spice and orange flavours. NOSE: Baking spices immediately to the fore, with orange oil, vanilla pods, cherry tobacco and a touch of apricot.
PALATE: Sticky stem ginger pudding alongside freshly grated orange zest. FINISH: Good length with wood spice, clove, rhubarb and ginger jam.
NOSE:
the fore, with orange oil, vanilla pods, cherry tobacco and a touch of apricot.
PALATE:
alongside freshly grated orange zest.
FINISH:
rhubarb and ginger jam.
LINDORES LOWLAND – ‘THE CASKS OF LINDORES, BOURBON’
SINGLE MALT
55 49.4 A limited bottling from Lindores Abbey Distillery. The whisky is made from local Fife barley and matured exclusively in Old Forrester bourbon barrels for over three years, developing a unique and distinctive flavour profile.
NOSE: Mellow fruity, red apples and pears with vanilla, butterscotch, custard and citrus.
PALATE: Vanilla mixed with orchard fruits like green cooking apples, citric pith with a hint of bitterness covered with oaky woody notes and spicy peppery touches. FINISH: Long lingering finish.
LOCHLEA SOWING EDITION FIRST CROP
SINGLE MALT
50 48 Lochlea is an independent family-owned distillery in the heart of Ayrshire. They have been quietly producing, casking and maturing their spirit over the last few years, keeping the whole operation a bit of an Ayrshire secret. They grow their own barley and have their own on-site water source, and full traceability over the ingredients going into the process. The Sowing Edition is the second release from this new distillery and is the first in an annual series of four small-batch bottlings.
NOSE: A waxy nose with pear drops, toffee, apple, butter shortbread and cereal.
PALATE: Velvety smooth palate with Madagascan vanilla, stewed apples in syrup, walnuts and cherries combined with French nougat. FINISH: Long, sweet, fruity and flavoursome. A great young dram!
Robin Russell
OWNER, ROBBIE’S DRAMS WHISKY MERCHANTS, AYR
robbieswhiskymerchants.com Robbie’s Drams Whisky Merchants is an independent family-run business, situated in the seaside town of Ayr. Fine character, great whisky since 1984. Here Robin selects some of his favourite lowlands on the market.
AMRUT FUSION
INDIAN SINGLE MALT
Worldwide
49.95 50
Amrut is a brand of Indian malt, it was the first single malt whisky to be produced in India. The distillery was founded in 1948 in Bangalore, Karnataka. This particular expression was The distillery was founded in 1948 in Bangalore, Karnataka. This particular expression was launched in 2009 and has 25% Scottish peated barley and 75% unpeated Indian barley. launched in 2009 and has 25% Scottish peated barley and 75% unpeated Indian barley. NOSE: Lovely sweet notes of cinnamon and vanilla. With mellow mandarin and poached Lovely sweet notes of cinnamon and vanilla. With mellow mandarin and poached peaches with spiced cloves. This has malty and woody notes, giving it some earthiness. peaches with spiced cloves. This has malty and woody notes, giving it some earthiness. PALATE: Peppery on the palate, a subtle smokiness. Fresh fruit and woody flavour balanced Peppery on the palate, a subtle smokiness. Fresh fruit and woody flavour balanced with sweet honey.with sweet honey. FINISH: A lovely long finish which lingers with the spiciness and fruit coming through. A lovely long finish which lingers with the spiciness and fruit coming through.
MACKMYRA MOMENT - KÖRSBÄRSRÖK KÖRSBÄRSRÖK
SWEDISH SINGLE MALT
99 46.1
Mackmyra distillery is a swedish single malt distillery. All ingredients used in their production are locally sourced (apart from the yeast). All the malts are natural colour and no additives. This is an experimental distillery, not afraid of trying new things. NOSE: Malty, toasted oak and a sweet cherry bakewell tart. Overripe raspberries and cherries with some smokiness and varnish.
PALATE: Some maraschino cherry, though not overpowering, subtle and almost creamy. Flavours of Eton mess, with hints of vanilla, smokiness and oak. FINISH: Smooth with a buttery mouthfeel which is warming and delicious. It has a well-balanced richness which is very enjoyable. The cherry influence is not overpowering. single malt distillery. All ingredients used in their production are locally sourced (apart from the yeast). All the malts are natural colour and no additives. This is an experimental distillery, not afraid of trying new things.
NOSE:
cherry bakewell tart. Overripe raspberries and cherries with some smokiness and varnish.
YAMAZAKI 12YO
JAPANESE SINGLE MALT
150 43
Yamazaki distillery is located in Shimamoto, Japan. This distillery is surrounded by greenery in a district which is well known for its quality water, a key ingredient for a great tasting whisky. Japanese distilleries typically use Scotch method, although it is the climate in Japan which tends to give it a more refined and older taste.
NOSE: Ginger and cinnamon spice, citrus and unripened stone fruit. Woody, nutty and zesty and fresh.
PALATE: Orange peel soaked in nutmeg, cinnamon and all-spice. Vanilla and malty notes are tinged with fresh apple and citrus zestiness. FINISH: This dram has some pleasant sharpness and freshness, a medium finish with light spice coming through.
Gillian Kirkland OWNER OF THE PIPER BAR AND WHISKY ENTHUSIAST
www.thepiperbar.com Gillian has owned the award-winning Piper Whisky Bar in Glasgow for eight years, she is incredibly passionate about whisky. She is a collector and is currently experimenting with some casks. She also enjoys exploring food and whisky pairings.
I BRIG O PERTH
B
rig O’ Perth Scotch Whisky was first blended by Perth grocer and wines and spirits merchant Matthew Gloag & Son in the basement of the family shop at 20-24 Atholl Street in 1896.
At the time, the ‘Fair City’ was one of the most important locations in Scotland for whisky blending, bonding and bottling and ‘The Brig’ grew to become one of the most popular brands locally, described by The Lancet in 1897 as ‘desirably smooth and mellow to the taste’. In 2021, on its 125th year anniversary, the brand was relaunched by Edinburgh-based independent bottler, The Whisky Cellar and its Perthshire-based founder, Keith Bonnington. The first bottling under the new owner was the 14-year-old ‘Special Anniversary Blend’ limited release of 1,125 bottles, which was sold to predominantly local wines and spirits specialists, grocers, delicatessens and farm shops across the county.
The blend is made of up of a careful marriage of Highland Malts from renowned distilleries and sweet grain whiskies from a mixture of American Oak ex-bourbon barrels and hogsheads.
The Whisky Cellar have created a blend which they believe is in keeping with the style of whisky bottled under the Brig O’ Perth label during the 20th century, with the malts being sourced from the same distilleries that Matthew Gloag & Son purchased from.
Bonnington describes it as being produced in “the old Highland style with an uncommonly high malt content, bottled at 46.7% - a higher strength than the typical blend, completely natural in colour and with no chill-filtration”.
‘Blended Scotch is enjoying a bit of a revival and an increased appreciation from whisky consumers and I think we have created one of the finest examples of the old style’.
Contact us at info@whiskycellar.co.uk or visit www.whiskycellar.co.uk to learn more.
THE LANCET 3rd july 1897 e grocer’s blend.
Blends
JOHNNIE WALKER 18 YO
£71.99 40 A well-aged whisky from an iconic brand, Johnnie Walker 18 YO is a perfectly balanced blend that offers a lot of maturity in the flavour for the price. blend that offers a lot of maturity in the flavour for the price. NOSE: Rich with stewed fruits and creamy vanilla. PALATE: Fruity flavours blended with floral notes and a hint of smoke. FINISH: Cinnamon and ginger linger on the finish.
Rich with stewed fruits and creamy vanilla.
Fruity flavours blended with floral notes and a hint of smoke Cinnamon and ginger linger on the finish.
BALLANTINE’S 30 YO
£299.99 40 The oldest core range Ballantine’s release contains whiskies from distilleries such as contains whiskies from distilleries such as Miltonduff and Glenburgie but also rare single Miltonduff and Glenburgie but also rare single malts from closed distilleries. malts from closed distilleries.
NOSE: Sweet, fruity and well-rounded. PALATE: Thick and rich with sweet fruity notes. FINISH: Long-lasting and balanced winter spices and butterscotch notes.
BLACK BOTTLE
£22.99 40 This ‘new’ version of Black Bottle was launched nearly 10 years ago and as much as fans will still miss the old Islay-based style, I prefer this one. It’s my go-to blend in the price category.
NOSE: Soft smoke in amongst toffee sweetness, ginger and tobacco. PALATE: For me the current Black Bottle has a fuller mouthfeel than the old version with the virgin oak adding thick vanilla sweetness.
FINISH: A medium length finish with a honeyed sweetness lingering along with subtle charred oak notes.
Fraser Robson
WHISKY AMBASSADOR AT GORDON & MACPHAIL, SOUTH STREET, ELGIN
www.gordonandmacphail.com Based in the company’s Spiritual Home in Elgin, Fraser has been the Whisky Ambassador at Gordon & MacPhail South Street since 2018. A massive fan of whisky – especially blends – this year marked Fraser’s first appearance at the Scottish Field Whisky Challenge.
Originally known as The Thurot Distillery owned by Sir Patrick Murray of Ochtertyre, the fi rst record of The Glenturret is written in the rental for opening one of the fi rst whisky tourist attractions in Scotland, a true pioneer of his time. In March 2019, The Glenturret Distillery was purchased Scotland’s oldest working distillery documentation from the Barony of Ochtertyre in 1763. by a joint venture led by The Lalique Group. This latest The distillery is situated in a picturesque area of land on sale in the distillery’s history brings forth a new beginning the outer edge of Crieff known as “The Hosh.” The Hosh for Scotland’s Oldest Working Distillery. Preserving the lands have been home to smugglers and illicit distillers traditional methods of whisky making continue to be since the beginning of the 18th Century. In 1796 John at the heart of the brand however there is an exciting
Drummond was caught illicitly distilling in The Hosh. The and imaginative reinvention of this historic site taking
House of Commons records from this time reveal that he place. The distillery is now home to The Glenturret was heavily fi ned as a result of his illicit activities. Although Lalique Boutique, the fi rst of its kind in Scotland and The not related to the subsequent Drummond ownership of The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, recently awarded its fi rst
Glenturret, The Hosh was indeed a hive of distilling activity Michelin Star. This must see destination is brimming with in the 18th century and remains to this day one of the oldest history and experiences to delight visitors all year round. areas of distilling in Scotland. The Glenturret has had various owners over the years and has not always been known as The Glenturret To discover more and to join The Guild of Glenturret
Distillery. Through most of the 19th Century it was known visit theglenturret.com as The Hosh Distillery. This former name was adopted by one of the original owners, Thomas McInnes. Thomas distilled at Glenturret at the same time as his uncle ran the Hosh Mill Distillery, another distillery located close to where the original distillery stands today. In 1873 Thomas
Stewart purchased The Hosh Distillery and changed the name to The Glenturret Distillery, a name which has been synonymous with the distillery ever since. The high duty rates and fall in whisky consumption in the early 1920’s forced The Glenturret to close its doors. After an extended period of dormancy, The Glenturret
Distillery was purchased by James Fairlie in 1957 after he saw enormous potential in the disused buildings. It took him three years to reinstate production once more.
James Fairlie was a great visionary, his ambition was “to preserve the traditional methods of distilling and to grow the appreciation for whisky.” James was also responsible
