Shadows of Division

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PRรทCESS ANALYSIS DรทCUMENT

TZE CHING TANG

SHADรทWS รทF DIVISIรทN




CรทNTENTS


PR÷JECT BRIEF

01.

ISI÷N

SHAD÷WS ÷F DIV

02.

EXHIBITI÷N

03. 04. 05. 06. 07. 08. 09. 10. 11.

RY

H÷LLAND & SHER SPRING SUMMER

TRENDS 17

TION DESIGNER INSPIRA

YLE & CULTURE URBAN STREET ST MARKET LEVEL

S

T & FINAL DESIGN

EN DESIGN DEVL÷PM & PATTERN CUTTING

T÷LE PR÷CESS

FERENCES

BIBLI÷GRAPHY | RE


F E I R B T C E J PRรท


CAPSULE COLLECTION INTRODUCTION This project will require you to work closely with industry to design and form a capsule collection with a high end target market. The focal point of this course is for students to combine, remaster, reinvent, customise Luxury fabric/s of urban wear to create a capsule collection that is contemporary, futuristic and cutting edge TREND RESEARCH The basis of the research will be to look at upcoming trends. You will look at Spring/Summer 17 trends and analyse these through research development. you will look at trend forecasts to include: Silhouette, Colour, Fabrics Print/Patterns and Textures. You will take inspiration from these trends and incorporate them into your design process using creative response s. This should be present in the sketchbook and inform ideas for design. EXHIBITION VISITS You are required to visit a variety of exhibitions to gain inspiration and influence. This can cover a wide variety of exhibitions such as: Art, Sculpture, Fashion, Architecture etc.. Visits to these exhibition should be visually recorded either by photography or drawing and sketchbook and work should show creative responses such as collage/drawing/painting etc.. These should be supported with secondary images and annotated/ analysed. Make sure to analyse the work and evaluate the work through silhouette/shape/colour and texture. It is highly important to contextualise the work being looked at regarding the artists/ designers name, name of the artwork, name of exhibition and previous work should be researched and


80’S TRENDS You will look at the vogue archive and research into silhouettes/ colour and to the nightclub culture. You will combine these inspirations and take influence from the silhouettes/ colour and prints. URBAN LUXE The main concept of this brief is Urban Luxe. you will research urban wear: street style such as Vetements/Supreme etc.. analysing the silhouettes,colour, political print statements, the aesthetics and style. Using this inspiration you are required to incorporate this into a capsule collection. The Urban Luxe idea is to combine urban wear silhouettes, inspiration from the 60s with fabrics of luxury quality such as satin, silk, neoprene, wool etc.. to create a collection of garments you can wear everyday encompassing fashion sport, outwear,day and evening-wear and knit. H÷LLAND & SHERRY In the visit to Holland and Sherry you will be given a presentation by an industry representative taking you through the process of this company and their design process. In this project you will be working closely with Holland & Sherry where the garments you design will take inspiration from the Holland & Sherry visit. This will be an opportunity for you to take notes on every aspect and gain some influence and inspiration from this visit with everything around, take photos of the aspects that inspire you the most. You will look at the company’s modern archive and take inspiration from the fabrics to inform research and inspiration.



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S W รท AD รทF

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Shadows of Division came to mind through combining all the research and interpreting this to combine them all into one design concept. The ‘Shadows’ of the collection is based on the colours of black and white with a hint of translucency, this mainly originated from a visit to an exhibition called ‘Another Minimalism’ at the Fruitmarket Gallery. Here there was an installation that interacted with both light and space - this concept is then split into two main categories in terms of design. Light relates to colour and space relates to the movement of the body and the oversized silhouettes. This installation


DESIGN CรทNCEPT


The Design Concept of this Capsule Collection foundation is the gallery visit. From the visit to the exhibition - Fruitmarket Gallery - Another Minimalism the main installation that influenced most was the acrylic cast sphere that hung in the air. Through this hanging installation a series of layers and shadows were formed from different lighting positions, thus creating an overlapping layer of shadows. The translucency was interpreted as a form of colour. From this inspiration ideas were developed, of layering and overlapping these circular shadows and patterns on black paper using laminate paper. A variety of layer techniques, shapes and compositions of the sheets were experimented with to produce a pattern or a print. These ideas were taken to photoshop and the hues and the levels of brightness were tried on them and printed out on sublimation paper to produce a dye transfer. Another idea taken from this was to emboss or foil the layered shapes onto fabrics such as neoprene, Leather and Frosted PVC. From the trend research, ‘Pause’ was mainly looked at as this fitted in with the whole concept of translucency and pastel/ minimal colour palette. The colour palette is a translucent touch combined with pastel colours of mint and peach/nudes with a harsh contrast of black and white. Crepe/paper machèd fabrics inform the textural element of the designs. The Pattern/Print trend: ‘Defining Lines’ tied in with the concept as this pattern consisted of several lines running in different directions and semi circle shapes connects to the gallery visit - this


Urban inspiration from the Vetements, Rihanna Fenti and Melitta Baumeister are used for silhouettes. Most of these silhouettes are oversized and baggy which is present in the design development - most clothing from the 80s played with the concept of oversizing. The oversized element really is an interesting factor as this can take focus away from the original human body shape, distorting this figure into a different, intellectual form. Oversizing hides the true body shape. The inspiration came from Issey Miyake where he hides the real body shape and experiments with shape and space within the garments, aiming to create space surrounding the body. From the oversized silhouettes a modern approach has been taken. Inspiration from these silhouettes and curved the silhouettes has been used to produce a futuristic approach to the garment design. Fabrics have been sourced and the quality of the fabrics have been taken into consideration. This includes final fabrics being Satin/Duchess Satin/ Neoprene/Leather (for a vintage feel) and 100% Cotton. Some of these fabric properties also best fitted with the garment silhouettes, as oversizing requires structural fabrics and neoprene and leather give the best structure to achieve the rounded shaped outcome. From the Holland and Sherry Visit the original influence was gold foiling being printed onto the binding of their seasonal lookbooks, but as ideas developed the new upcoming check trends were analysed and ways to remaster these were put into experimentation - including embossing of the check prints. Further exploration of the patterns with photoshop created interesting blurred check patterns - changing the hues/levels of these and incorporating these onto the final garments through a mixture of embossing checks and transfer dyeing


THE VEILING


ROBERT IRWIN

UNTITLED

N รท I T I B I EXH


AN÷THER MINIMALISM The visit to the museum was an innovative and inspirational experience. The exhibition called ‘ Another Minimalism” depicted the title. Through the entire gallery was a series of colours, blurr, and geometric line distributions. From this gallery the main installation taken through to the design process was the ‘Untitled’ Acrylic cast, installation by Robert Irwin. The title portrayed a mysterious element to it which is why this was taken forward. With an untitled name to this masterpiece a congregation of ideas were allowed to be pulled from this one piece. Shadows, space, distortion, layering, tones and gradients, and shapes were all extracted from this and interpreted through design. The piece informs us of the interaction between light and space and the many different outcomes that appear through divergence. As you moved around the hanging acrylic piece different forms were introduced thus creating different shapes and distorting the shadows on the wall behind the cast. The light is used in parallel positioning thus giving equal amount of spacing and tone to the whole thing. The blurriness of the cast provided a relation to the shadows and presented the idea of blurriness and how this could be interpreted into incorporating translucent




M I R E P EX

N รท I T A ENT


With this influence in mind an assortment of ideas were put to the test, and experimented with throughout the whole research process. Laminate paper was cut up and divided into segments of semi circles and circles, here all of these ideas were experimented with on a black piece of paper to bring out the best outcome and so that we are able to see the translucency of the pieces. A cluster of ideas are presented using this technique and playing around with distribution of the cut outs forms. From these different ideas patterns are composed into patterns for printing and dyeing. The patterns and prints are explored further in photoshop and studied using a variation of hues, tones levels and brightnesses to achieve the desired final pattern. These patterns were then taken to sample with on the luxury fabrics using sublimation print-



IMAGE SOURCE: Holland & Sherry 03 / 2016


I M P A C T II


Heritage of Holland & Sherry The bespoke Holland & Sherry has a highly strong heritage. The company was established 1836, over 170 years ago. Holland & Sherry produce the finest cloths in the world and due to its reputation have companies situated worldwide. In 1982 the company moved to the famous Saville Row , which to this day is still the companies head office. To produce these high quality fabrics a special type of sheep is used, called the Vicuna - this sheep is only accessible to Holland & Sherry. This is what makes the company so recognisable and unique. Cloths can cost from ÂŁ260 to an astonishing ÂŁ3,000 per metre. The difference in the price is felt through texture and meticulous handling. The most luxurious cloths are distinguished through feel, they have a softer touch, with less texture and the fibres are so fine they merge into a whole piece without any graininess. Innovation and Inspiration Without losing the important tradition and heritage of the company, Holland & Sherry thrive to find new innovation and inspiration - by attending regular fashion shows - especially in Paris such as Premiere Vision so that they can capture the trends and invent cloths to match the criteria, using this also to innovate new styles in terms of colour and print. This season for Spring/Summer 16 the company are working on different coloured checks in their new collection with a fresh colour palette. Here the traditional Scottish Check pattern is maintained but with change in the colour palette. New ideas are always being inputted into the process and production of the fabrics.


Design Interpretation The elements that have been taken from this visit are the different coloured checkered prints that are fresh for the season Spring / Summer 2016 - for the upcoming collection that has been designed. This has been incorporated into the fabric manipulation technique with fresh approach to urban luxury wear. Experimentation of hues, saturation levels, brightness and translucency on the checks has been carried out to achieve a variety of outcomes. The checks element has been taken and explored through embossing onto the Urban garments - which is also an iconic part of the opulent H&S buttons. - this provides an interesting approach as it is subtle and brings out the high end modern design approach without losing the importance of the long established Holland & Sherry Heritage. The traditional element has been taken and translated into a contemporary design feature with the use of luxury fabrics such as Leather and Duchess Satin. classic most minimalistic simple checks are incorporated into this as using the most simplified checks means the embossing can look effective without being having a crowded appearance on the garment. Aside of the embossing to add an interesting look, gold foiling technique is applied using details of gold striping on the garments. Using a mix of fabric manipulation techniques adds quality to the garments and makes them more fascinating. These gold foil strips are integrated into the embossed check garments to add a feel



S P R I N G | S U M M E R 17

PAUSE

CรทLรทUR


A minimal approach is taken with this season. Translucent screenings over block colours are revealed to hide and alter the tone of the colours, this can be done using translucent fabrics as detailing such as pockets and collars etc.. Pause provides a neutral toned colour containing hints of nude as the core - the core colour is softened by hues of peaches and oranges and occasionally hints of pink. Placed alongside cold colours of mint, sky blue and turquoise for a clinical ambience. This nude and neutral palette is balanced out with strong lashes of black and white. Black and White contrast strongly and when put side by side has a strong urban powerful feel, the harsh black and white is softened and toned down with the neutrals.


PEACH NUDE

MINT



WHITE

BLAC


TRANSLUCENT


D L GO



H L I S

E T T รทUE


Silhouette Silhouettes for Spring Summer 17 this season are very relaxed and oversizing is an important factor in response to comfort features. Embracing form - Silhouette forms take place through the careful consideration of the human form, instead of keeping the original human form, this is embraced through distorting the human figure. Smooth ergonomic forms are extruded to achieve oversized shapes to create space and comfort within the garments. The flow of a moulded liquidised shape provides influence for the garment structure. Combining modernity with the traditional concept of vintage oversizing. Silhouette inspiration has been taken from this trend an modernised, altered and metamorphosis comes into play as the shapes and silhouettes of Spring Summer 17 are altered to fit the Urban theme. Oversized outfits see a new innovative style emerging.


Oversized body and extrusion within the arms puts a meaning on metamorphosis and hiding the body’s true shape.

MELLITA BAUMEISTER


AVVIK

Tapered curved oversized trouser silhouette provide a modern and futuristic feel to oversizing


Influence for the oversized scuba jumper with balloon like sleeves.

MELITTA BAUMEISTER


VETEMENTS

Polo neck | collar details fit in with the vintage feel when paired with oversixzed crop t-shirts.


URBAN


Urban Inspiration The Urban culture tells life as it is. Problems, Emotions, Fun, Distortion all in one. It is a somewhat mysterious, desolate, mysterious yet sometimes dangerous sub culture, people with strong minds of doing what they want, when they want. A culture filled with troubled youths, rebels and hipsters, these suburban places are areas of comfort and de-stress. It is a hidden culture which seems forbidden, but the culture street style has always been an important influence not to be forgotten. The urban fashion era takes on the foundation of vintage with oversized, slouchy styles that are comfortable with no restrictions - freeing people of their ac-



youth

P ROBLEMS

LI VE, LET



VETEMENTS


MARKET LEVEL High End CONSTRUCTION METHODS FINISHES DETAILING FABRIC CHOICE TEXTURES FABRIC MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES


EMBOSS DUCHESS SATIN

NEOPRENE

LEATHER CONSTRUCTION METHODS

DETAILS FINISHES


FINAL DESIGNS

OUTFIT 1


OUTFIT 2


OUTFIT 1


OUTFIT 1


OUTFIT 2


OUTFIT 2


DESIGN CรทNSTRUCTIรทN


THROUGHOUT THE PRODUCTION PROCESS THE APPROPRIATE CONSTRUCTION METHODS WERE RESEARCHED THOROUGHLY FOR THESE OUTFITS TO FIT THE HIGH END MARKET PLACE. FROM PRECISE METICULOUS SEWING METHODS TO DETAILS AND FINISHINGS. FABRIC CHOICE FOR THE GARMENTS WERE CHOSEN TO FIT THE LUXURY AESTHETIC. THE CLOTHES DESIGNED FOR THIS PROJECT ARE ELEMENTS OF OVERSIZED URBAN STREET STYLE SILHOUETTES AND LUXURY FABRICS SUCH AS DUCHESS SATIN/ NEOPRENE/LEATHER/PVC/PREMIERE CREPE TO FIT IN WITH THE ‘URBAN LUXE’ THEME. THESE FABRICS HAVE BEEN MANIPULATED IN A VARIETY OF WAYS TO INCLUDE EMBOSSING AND FOLIING TO ACCUMUKLATE THE HIGH END MARKET PLACE. SOME ISSUES DID OCCUR DUE TO THE NATURE OF THE FABRIC AND THE CONTAMINATION OF GLUE.


PATTERN CUTTING & TรทILING PRรทCESS


PATTERN CUTTING WHILST THE SILHOUETTES WERE MINIMAL AND SIMPLE SILHOUETTES SOME PROBLEMS OCCURED DURING THE PATTERN CUTTING PROCESS. MEASUREMENTS MUST BE DONE ACCURATELYTOACHEIVETHEBESTPOSSIBLEOUTCOMEANDFORTHEGARMENTSTOFITTOGETHER PROPERLY. MEASUREMENTS OF THE WAISTBAND FOR THE TROUSERS WAS TOO SHORT FOR THE SHORTS WHICH RESULTED IN A PLEAT IN THE BACK OF THE SHORTS. THIS SHOULD’VE BEEN MEASURED TO MATCH THE WAIST LENGTH. SOME PATTERNS SUCH AS THE HOOD PATTERN WERE DRAWN TOO SMALL AND NEEDED TO BE ALTERED TO FIT THE NECKLINE OF THE BAGGY HOODED JUMPER.

TOILING PROCESS DURING THE TOILING PROCESS A LOT OF PROBLEMS OCCURED SUCH AS THE COLLAR BEING TOO SMALL FOR THE NECK LINE - SO THIS HAD TO BE LENGTHEND ON THE PATTERN PLAN. WHEN THE TOILE FOR THE JUMPER WAS DONE THE CROP WAS TOO SHORT SO HAD TO BE MADE LONGER FOR THE IDEAL CROP ELEMENT. THE JUMPER SLEEVES CAUSED CONFUSION AS THE WIDER PART WAS SEWN ONTO THE BOTTOM OF THE GARMENT, TOILING IS A USEFUL PROCESS TO GO THROUGH AS THIS OUTLINES THE MISTAKES AND THE CHANGES WHICH NEED TO BE DONE ACCORDING TO


FINAL GARMENT ASSEMBLY


FINAL GARMENT ASSEMBLY OF THE GARMENTS BROUGHT ABOUT SOME MINOR PROBLEMS TO DO WITH THE CONSTRUCTION METHODS AND FINISHINGS. IT IS FUNDAMENTAL THAT THE ORDER OF THE PRODUCTION METHOD IS CARRIED OUT, AS THIS CAUSES ISSUES TO ARISE WITH ASPECTS SUCH AS OVER LOCKING AND FINISHING. PARTS MUST BE SEWN IN THE CORRECT ORDER TO PROVIDE THE BEST POSSIBLE OUT-COME. AS THE LEATHER HAD SHRUNK THROUGH THE PROCESS OF EMBOSSING, THIS MEANT THE LEATHER PIECES CAME OUT SMALLER THAN THE ORIGINAL PATTERN PIECES, WHEN MATCHED WITH THE NEOPRENE SIDE THE NEOPRENE WAS SLIGHTLY BIGGER AND LONGER AT THE BOTTOM THAN THE LEATHER, THE SOLUTION TO THIS WAS SO TRIM THE NEOPRENE TO MATCH UP THE TWO BOTTOM PARTS. DUE TO THIS PROBLEM THIS CREATED BIGGER PROBLEMS WHEN DRAFTING THE LINING PATTERN - THE LINING PATTERN PIECES WERE SLIGHTLY BIGGER THAN THE ORIGINAL, BUT THIS DIDN’T MATTER TOO MUCH AS THE LINING CAN BE BIGGER THAN THE JACKET. EMBOSISNG THE LEATHER FABRIC SHRUNK THE ORIGINAL FABRIC SIZE AND THE LEATHER FABRIC LOST ALL OF IT’S STRETCH. FOILING THE GARMENTS CAUSED AN ISSUE FROM THE SMALL GLUE PARTICLES WHICH STUCK ONTO THE SIDE OF THE GARMENT AND THE FOLIED PAPER BEING CREASED CAUSED THE FOIL OUTCOME TO BE SLIGHTLY CRUMPLED AND THE FOILED CHECKS ONTO THE OVERSIZED SATIN TROUSERS SHOULD HAVE BEEN ACCURATELY MEA-


TรทILE PHOTOS



BIBLIรทGRAPHY & REFERENCES


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SHADรทWS รทF DIVISIรทN


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