CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS WOOL International Design & Make Challenge
Š 2015 Lorraine Pocklington, John Pocklington This publication has been created and funded by Lorraine & John Pocklington. Neither Cambrian Mountains Initiative nor the Cambrian Mountains Wool Group are responsible for the content, which is provided in good faith. It is not intended for resale or general distribution. Please advise any errors or omissions to: lorraine@greenweeds.co.uk Rhydlwyd, Bontnewydd, Aberystwyth SY23 4JJ Designs in this publication are deemed copyright the respective designers. Contact details for all those represented within can be found in the last section of the book. Unless otherwise stated, photographs have been supplied by the authors. Printed and bound in Wales at Cambrian Printers, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion
CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS WOOL International Design & Make Challenge
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In the heart of Wales, the Cambrian Mountains region is one of the few places in Britain where you can escape the sound of traffic and, at night, enjoy a skyscape unspoilt by light pollution. A wilderness where even in the height of summer you can walk for a day without encountering another. The region’s habitats support a wide range of wildlife: from the bogs, moors and lakes of the uplands to its natural woodlands, streams and rivers below. The rivers Severn, Wye, Elan, Irfon, Tywi, Cothi, Teifi, Ystwyth, Rheidol, and Twymyn all have their sources here. Almost extinct in the British Isles in the 1930’s, the iconic Red Kite now thrives in Wales, thanks first to its survival in the Cambrian Mountains.
THE CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS
As much as eighty five percent of the land is used for sheep farming, and farmers have influenced the landscape for hundreds of years. The complex social and cultural history, landscape and wildlife of the region cannot be successfully conveyed here. We have tried instead to provide a ‘sense of place’ by photographing our designers’ work in the context of the Mountains. Over a fine few days of the early summer, we travelled with the Challenge collection to many beautiful places. We also visited the National Wool Museum / Amgueddfa Wlân Cymru in Dre-fach Felindre. We were privileged to be allowed amongst the exhibits with our eclectic mix of Cambrian Mountains Wool artifacts to help to illustrate the story of our wool in Wales. From fleece to fabric. From mountains to mills. From design to realisation. From the Cambrian Mountains..
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Ffair Rhos Meirion Jones
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Plateaux, vallleys and gorges form the unique framework of the Cambrian Mountains, upon which our modifications have been imposed. The ever changing landscape, from farming, mining, reservoir dams, quarries and wind farms provides infinite inspiration for artists. Lead, copper, zinc and silver were mined in these mountains, abandoned works can be found throughout the region, notably at Cwmystwyth. Historic sites such as Strata Florida Abbey and Soar y Mynydd add a spiritual dimension to an overriding atmosphere of peace and tranquility.
CHANGING LANDSCAPES
Abandoned hill farms dot the landscape from when the challenges started to outweigh rewards and new generations rejected the lifestyle. Welsh artist Aneurin Jones writes in his book Harvest Moon about this influence on his work:
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... I began to attend farm sales. I wanted to witness the sadness of these occasions, and describe it in paint. A particular family’s bond with the land of their ancestors is severed forever and an ancient way of life comes to an end. I stand there observing the deep pathos of the situation and empathising with those about to leave. They remind me of birds about to migrate, only these birds do not return.
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Latterly, against the backdrop of mountainous terrain, isolated farms and close-knit communities, the widely acclaimed BBC/S4C detective drama series Hinterland / Y Gwyll (2014) provides an atmospheric ‘crime noire’ representation of the region, with stunning cinematography and dark themes.
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Hydref - Autumn Aneurin Jones
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The Cambrian Mountains Initiative (CMI) was inspired by His Royal Highness, who as the project’s President wished to help sustain traditional Welsh upland farms and rural communities. In addition to their work with the Wool Group, CMI work with lamb and beef farmers in the region. HRH The Prince of Wales and the Royal Watercolour
THE CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS INITIATIVE
HRH The Prince of Wales first explored the Cambrian Mountains in 1969 when he was a student of Welsh at the University of Wales in Aberystwyth. For the watercolour used in the CMI brand, His Royal Highness selected the view from of Cwm Berwyn (meaning ‘Berwyn Valley’) near Tregaron. The 2008 watercolour depicts Cwm Berwyn seen from the top of Rhiwdywyll with Pantshiri on the left and Craig y Fintan on the right. His Royal Highness further supported the Initiative by agreeing to a limited edition lithograph of the watercolour to be made available for sale. All profits from the limited 100 lithographs funded further development of the Cambrian Mountains Initiative and its interests. The watercolour donated by HRH The Prince of Wales to support the Initiative is shown to the left as part of the CMI logo. The Cambrian Mountains Wool Group was created by the Cambrian Mountains Initiative to explore one of the region’s assets - its wool. The Campaign for Wool is a global endeavour initiated by its patron, HRH The Prince of Wales, in order to raise awareness amongst consumers about the unique, natural and sustainable benefits offered by wool.
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Cambrian Mountains Wool is unique, natural, renewable, sustainable and truly versatile. Formed by the Cambrian Mountains Initiative, members of the The Cambrian Mountains Wool Group have in common their passion for wool and the rich textiles heritage of Wales, along with a commitment to explore the possibilities for the successful commercial development of wool from farms in the region.
THE CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS WOOL CHALLENGE
The Challenge was to test the purchase and processing of fine regional wool to commercial standards and in such quantities that would make its cost viable for its use by fashion and interior design companies. Under the guidance of the Cambrian Mountains Initiative, and with funding support from the Welsh Government’s Supply Change Initiative, a feasibility study was undertaken to establish the practicalities of such an enterprise. The British Wool Marketing Board played an important role in facilitating this. The Challenge Collection is our evidence of the wool’s versatility and quality, demonstrating its beauty and exciting imaginations about this truly Welsh wool. We asked designers from around the world to put forward their ideas for using the wool. Together they have created an inspirational and eclectic showcase of original pieces. From the 128 applicants, these designers were selected to realise their designs using our Cambrian Mountains wool. Their work has helped to raise the profile of Cambrian Mountains Wool and initiate interest and discussion about the commercial possibilities for Cambrian Mountains farmed wool.
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Allison Volek Shelton was first introduced to fiber arts in college at Tennessee Technological University and instantly fell in love.
ALLISON VOLEK SHELTON Tennessee, USA
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She bought her first loom 5 years ago and founded Shutters & Shuttles shortly after. She loves the repetition of weaving and is constantly looking for new techniques and patterns to experiment with. Allison has been featured in Woven Magazine an online magazine that exists to celebrate artists, craftsmen, and makers alike “...to share their stories of fear and triumph, risk and return�. (March 2015). She has also featured in Nashville Lifestyles Magazine.
Above and right: on the loom photographs Allison Volek Shelton
2015 Collection image provided by Allison
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Allistair Covell is an award-winning British Contemporary Surface Designer with a background in fine art, printed textiles and fashion design. His unique and distinctive style extends across a variety of surfaces for the fashion and interior design industries.
ALLISTAIR COVELL Dunstable, England
Allistair trained at the University of the Arts London, graduating in 2012 with a BA in Surface Design and prior to this he was awarded a Foundation Degree with Distinction in Fashion & Textile Design from the University of Bedfordshire. Both courses not only nurtured his natural talent and affinity for colour and pattern, but also granted him the freedom to challenge and push boundaries, which has resulted in him creating a strong and diverse portfolio of work. Whilst at university Allistair interned at three prestigious London fashion houses, working with the fashion designers Matthew Williamson and Erdem, and the textile design icon Zandra Rhodes. In January 2014 Allistair won the AfghanMade Best Young Designer Award at the Carpet Design Awards, the world’s leading carpet design competition at DOMOTEX Hannover, the largest and most influential trade show for floor coverings. Allistair’s unique textile artwork installation Digital Stitch was created in collaboration with Penny McIntyre the Director of Think Positive, a creative textile incubator, which invites designers and artisans into an environment that has nurtured artistic talent for over thirty years.
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Original art work image provided by Allistair Covell
The Rhythm Rug photograph Allistair Covell
Digital Stitch (200cm x 140cm) photographed at the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre,
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My earliest exploration into textiles was on a City and Guilds embroidery course. Here we investigated hand embroidery and design development.
AMANDA GRAHAM Exton, England
As my interest in textiles grew I decided to pursue a degree. I attended UCE Birmingham as a mature student studying Fashion and Textiles. During this time I specialised in machine embroidery also experimenting in print, weave and fashion design. During my degree I worked for VV Rouleaux, the ribbon and trimming specialist. Other employment has included theatre and television costume. I have always had a great interest in historical costume and it continues to influence my work today. More recently I completed an MA in Children’s Book Illustration at Cambridge School of Art. I have written stories since childhood and thoroughly enjoyed this course and hope to work in this area in the future. Alongside textiles I enjoy printmaking, particularly lino and collagraph and I do see their influence in my textile illustrations. I first began working with wool fibre during a short course at Bicton College, Devon. Since then I have been hooked by this beautiful material using it in a variety of ways including Nuno felting to create illustrative textiles. I like to include machine embroidery details with the wool as it provides an interesting surface contrast. Today my work is a combination of felt, silk and machine embroidery. It is a record of all I have gathered along the way and all the things I love. I hope it successfully shows my passion for storytelling, colour and pattern.
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The dye palette photograph Amanda Graham
Design sketch photograph Amanda Graham
Incorporating techniques including dyeing, wet felting, needle felting and hand and machine embroidery, the finished piece is inspired by Edward Lear’s limerick “There Was an Old Man With a Beard”
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Following training at Homerton College in Cambridge and teaching in the south east I returned to education and graduated in fine art from Surrey Institute of Art and Design, Farnham. I moved to just outside Newcastle Emlyn, West Wales in 2004 with my partner Glenn Ibbitson and now work as an artist: painting, printmaking and bookbinding full time.
CAROLE KING Newcastle Emlyn, Wales
Coming from a family where we were encouraged to design and create (at 85 my father still makes and drives miniature steam engines), an interest in industrial machinery has been part of my life. Home-crafts such as sewing, knitting, model aeroplanes and paper, hot air balloons were all part of my life growing up in a tiny Buckinghamshire village. While living in Surrey, I worked with other artists to form an artists co-operative to provide studio spaces, a print workshop and gallery which still flourishes. This provided an inspiring environment for my own work and interests to develop, especially silkscreen printing which is my favourite technique. I am passionate about beautiful handcrafted objects and the individuality brought to objects through the maker’s skills. The weaving and spinning industry has already inspired several series of works, presented both as artists books and in two dimensional, mixed media formats. I exhibit both in the UK and internationally, through galleries and online. My work is held in private collections in the UK, Europe, USA, Japan and New Zealand.
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Inspiration - image by Carole King
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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Carole Wadham specialises in creating one-off sculptured head pieces. She is a strong advocate for using British materials that are natural and cruelty free. Her designs generally incorporate hand felted British wools embellished with embroidery, beading and unusual materials from steel rods to corn husks. The unique quality of hand felted wool creates interesting shapes and textures that cannot be produced using conventional, commercially produced millinery felt. All of her designs are hand crafted, unique and demonstrate meticulous attention to detail, balance and silhouette.
CAROLE WADHAM Bath, England
No stranger to the design process, Carole ran her own clothing label in Hong Kong throughout the 80’s and fully embraced her long term passion for millinery whilst studying an MA: Design ( Textiles) at Bath Spa University, completing in 2014. Her designs have appeared in exhibitions in UK and Japan and on the catwalk, complimenting both high street and independent design collections. Carole’s design features hand felting and blocking and layered stiffening, using both traditional and contemporary methods, embellished with embroidery and beads to create a statement headpiece. Her design is titled Elements as it features wool and plant material from the land, Swarovski pearl beads to represent fruits of the sea and the inspirational design of young birds developing feathered wings from down, using the qualities of raw felt combined with structured machine stitching.
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Two Black Hats, image provided by Carole
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Carys Boyle is a Ceramic Artist based in her garden studio in Aberystwyth creating a sculptural range of porcelain pieces that exploit the qualities of high fired clay. She also creates a commercial range of personalised ceramic gifts for all occasions.
CARYS BOYLE Aberystwyth, Wales
She takes her design inspiration from the beautiful Cardigan bay coast, walking the beaches photographing, sketching and finding objects of interest to use as a starting point for her designs. She is particularly drawn to the the smooth contours of the sand and pebbles along with the shimmering sea and coastal landscapes to create minimal pieces with the emphasis on form rather than colour. The main material used is porcelain and she employs a variety of traditional methods including slip casting and hand building, but also innovates to push the boundaries of these techniques. She has created a range of sculptural lamps, tea light holders, vases and jewellery that she sells in Art Galleries and boutique shops around the UK. She has also worked with the V&A and Harrods to design and create exclusive ranges for them.
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My work is created using a variety of ceramic techniques using porcelain in solid form and liquid form. I’m particularly drawn to porcelain due to its translucent qualities. When it is high fired in the kiln it is almost glasslike and you can see light through it and I try to make the porcelain as thin as possible to exploit this quality. It looks fragile but is as hard as stone. Whilst using a method called slip casting (when the porcelain is turned into liquid form and poured into plaster moulds) I discovered that the small splashes and trickles of this liquid clay created delicate and unusual patterns on the plaster and decided to develop this into my own technique which I have been improving and experimenting for years. When I read about the Cambrian Wool Challenge I thought it would be exciting to try and develop this technique further by incorporating wool. I felt that wool and porcelain are both beautiful natural materials with contrasting qualities.
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Ceramic Bowl photograph Carys Boyle
With a view to the Cambrian coast in the distance, from the Mynydd Bach, Ceredigion
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I always dread these things that say something about yourself. I am rather shy and prefer to hide under the table and make things. Basically I am a fibre artist. I needle felt small creatures from my little shed workshop in Monmouth. I like to be outside and barefoot and I think I am part mermaid, I love to swim in the sea. I share my home with more cats than some would consider decent. Each creature I make has a unique character, charm and mischief of its own. I have a sense of fun and nostalgia and a love of the forgotten, small, passed over and missed things. Being small and shy I’ve always cheered on the outsiders, the quiet ones.
CELESTINE AND THE HARE Monmouth, Wales
Karin Hines
All my creatures are made from wool (with occasional use of camel. alpaca etc fibres) pipe cleaner legs so they can be posed and glass beads for eyes. I make short animations of the creatures living in the shed with me and we eat a lot of choklit. These I post on my Facebook page where is a lot of laughter, silliness and joy and a gentleness of life and what has become the Tribe of Celestiner Chokliteers! I make whatever comes into my mind which is full of stories and pictures and never have enough time to do everything that is swirling around in there. These I sell on my website or through galleries but I also do a lot of commissions. I make all creatures great and small; mythical as well as real. Oh and yes, Celestine is my Swedish great grandmother. I have a sculpture of her in my studio that I used to use as a hat block till I could afford a real one. She is the mother of Karin who I am named after. The Hare was the first creature I made properly and guards us all. I love hares. They are magical. Hence the name Celestine and the Hare
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Arctic hares and reindeer with calf photographs Karin Hines
On the road between Ystrad Meurig and Ysbty Ystwyth, Ceredigion
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Ceri Williams is an artist living in North Wales and works from her studio near Llanberis. She is particularly interested in sculpture, the human form and portraits. She has studied Art at Llandrillo College in North Wales, including life drawing, portraits, pottery, sculpture and fine art. Ceri has been working on her new artistic venture of creating sculptures from wool using a needle felting technique. She enjoys creating all sorts of characters from the old to the young, fantasy figures and realistic people. She calls her creations Bobl Bach this is translated to Little People. She has been working on these for the past couple of years and uses her skills of clay sculpting and life class to create the features and figure.
CERI WILLIAMS Llanberis, Wales
Ceri is particularly interested in capturing the humour, character and interaction between people within her work. Her work sells around the UK and America and has taken on commissions to create requested characters.
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These characters appeared instantly to me when I was accepted to create a piece for the Cambrian Wool Challenge. I really wanted to combine the use of the wool in its four different forms, i.e. wool tops, floor grade wool, 4 ply and the woven material. I also wanted to express the strong connections between the woollen industry and the creative artist. What better way than a direct line from sheep to creator - from Purl the Sheep to Granny Knit.
They are made from pure wool body pieces, which are fleece filled. The body is covered with wool tops and needle felted to shape. The hair was dyed with varying shades of grey and wound on a stick to create curls. The Cambrian Wool herringbone material was used to create the clothing. The wool was a joy to work with and the quality outstanding. I really enjoyed making them, they made me smile through out the process and I hope you enjoy them too!
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Sitting figure (inset:detail) Images provided by Ceri
Purl the Sheep and Granny Knit
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Claire Cawte is a freelance textile artist specialising in felt making and natural dyes and has exhibited her work both nationally and internationally. As a textile artist her work includes wraps, scarves, bags and corsages all influenced by the natural environment and tribal costume. This is complimented with a burgeoning collection of sculptural pieces inspired by the characteristics of British fleece. In 2010 Claire received a project grant from the Arts Council of Wales to research and explore the properties of British fleece which she is currently using. British fleece is coarser, more stubborn and more labour intensive to felt, which has lead her towards the making of sculptural pieces.
CLAIRE CAWTE Penarth, Wales
Claire has developed a range of hand felted bags dyed using natural dyes and adorned with reclaimed leather handles. The fleece becomes a strong and durable material once felted demonstrating how elegantly Welsh Wool can be utilised to its full potential.
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Having the opportunity to work with clean prepared fleece from the Cambrian Mountain was so appealing, as the provenance of the materials is important to my ethos. This provided the perfect opportunity to develop my new ideas into products that demonstrate how Welsh wool can be manipulated and formed through a felt making process and how the wool responds to and absorbs natural dyes. On receiving the pure white Welsh fleece, I found that it was soft to touch with a long staple that is perfect for felting application. I used an Eco print method that transfers colour from leaf to fabric using a direct contact natural dye method. The wool absorbed the natural dye and leaf print beautifully demonstrating how effectively natural dyes respond to the natural qualities of the Welsh wool.
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Left: Eco print shawl Image provided by Claire
Eco print Cambrian Wool bags - in the mountains above Ffarmers
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Clare and Vinny Vincent are a brother and sister duo who grew up on the Welsh coast. Clare is a fashion graduate. She specialized in flat pattern cutting and since graduating has designed collections of technical dance sport separates.
CLARE & VINNY VINCENT Cardigan, Wales
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Vinny is an avid surfer and RNLI lifeguard. He runs a garment printing and design company from the coast of West Wales. For the Challenge, Clare and Vinny produced a quilted Woolen hooded jacket, aimed at the cold climate surfing community. Cold climate surfing is increasing in popularity due to the vast improvements in wetsuit technology, and needs to be supported by cold weather clothing. They used the woven wool, which was naturally dyed and pre shrunk. This was quilted with wool wadding for insulation and lined with a cotton/polyester blend for comfort. The shoulders, hood and top arms have been covered in waterproof soft-足shell material and the cuffs, neck and bottom of the jacket were piped for added comfort.
Above: Laying up the carded wool for the wadding photograph Clare and Vinny Vincent
‘Woolsh’ Jacket, photograph Clare and Vinny Vincent
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Flora Collingwood-Norris specialises in luxury knitwear, with an emphasis on hand knits and crochet, which she combines with other techniques such as embroidery. Based in the Scottish Borders textile and knitwear heartland, she graduated in 2009 from Heriot Watt University (formerly the Scottish College of Textiles) with first class honours in Design for Textiles, winning the Doctor Oliver medal for best overall student of the year. Her collection was sponsored by Todd and Duncan, and shown in Hanatsubaki magazine in Japan, with pieces displayed at the Borders Textile Towerhouse in Hawick.
COLLINGWOODNORRIS DESIGN Galashiels, Scotland
Flora Collingwood-Norris
Flora started hand knitting at age six, and learned crochet and lacemaking soon after. At university, she achieved the technical machine knit, fibre and garment knowledge to complement her craft skills and artistic flair. She has worked on several prestigious projects, with work appearing in London Fashion Weeks for Christopher Kane, Jasper Conran and William Chambers Millinery. She designs and writes unique patterns for specialist yarn company Whistlebare, providing high-end expertise to bring out the best in its locallyproduced yarns. Preferring to use natural fibres, Flora’s approach is to encourage ethical practice and reduce environmental impact at all stages, from design to production. She has worked for People Tree, the fair-trade fashion pioneers, and with Afghani and Tajik knitters refining their skills to improve earning potential. She has recently taught at Heriot Watt University as a Teaching Fellow and technical demonstrator, and continues to mentor students. Flora is now working on her own collection.
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crochet bomber jacket b&w photograph and process images provided by Flora
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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The way that design was taught at my school meant that I spent 5 years learning ceramics but I also enjoyed making things from cloth and yarn. It seemed natural for me therefore, as a Fine Art undergraduate to make pictures using as many layers of cloth and stitch as layers of paint and canvas.
ELIZABETH LLOYD Wooler, England
After graduating I returned to the earlier preoccupation of ceramics and spent many years as a studio potter and teaching craft. Ten years followed as a full time mum and so it was 20 years before I came back to textiles. A move to Northumberland and a tour of the Outer Hebrides sparked an interest in the rich heritage of the Harris Tweed industry and soon I was experimenting on a table loom. I drew on my Fine art experience, books and periodicals and any information that was offered to explore what to me was an exciting new way of using yarn. I now weave on an 8-shaft countermarch floor loom using mainly wool with rare breed yarns added for their particular textures and strengths. Finding that I needed many different cones to make up my palette of colour I started dying yarn myself. A growing Interest in Tapestry has taken me full circle back to wanting to see my work hanging on a wall. Still using traditional patterns rather than tapestry I have started producing hand dyed wall hangings inspired by the landscape from home and other remote areas of the British Isles.
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Taquete scarf and wallhanging image provided by Elizabeth
Elizabeth Lloyd’s design sketch for selection panel
Wallhanging displayed on disused barn at Great Abbey Farm, Strata Florida, Ceredigion 2015
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Emma Brooks graduated in Textiles Design from the University of Brighton, specialising in knitwear design. Through her work she enjoys exploring innovative structures and intricate patterns alongside traditional techniques, often seeking inspiration from architecture and nature. Her final graduate collection focused on the use of British wool, utilising the unique properties of different British sheep breeds, whilst exploring structures developed from traditional cable knitting. It reflects a continued passion for wool and British craft stemming initially from her involvement in the Campaign for Wool’s Wool School competition in 2013.
EMMA BROOKS Brighton, England
More recently she has completed internships with John Rocha, Donna Karan and at John Arbon Textiles – a traditional worsted mill in Devon, where she gained an in-depth understanding of the properties and processing of different fibres. Emma aspires to pursue a career in knitwear design and widen her industry experience, in keeping with her passions for wool, British manufacturing and quality knitwear. Emma’s piece is an intricately structured cushion cover. She developed the technique on a domestic knitting machine using a partial knitting technique whereby sections can be knitted one at a time. Altering the tension where the sections are then joined creates a complex three-dimensional effect, which has then been repeated back and forth across the piece. The fabric has then been hand-sewn together.
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Image provided by Emma
In a Cambrian Mountains cottage
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Gabriel Roland is a fabric designer and innovator. When not hiking or drawing he is working somewhere in between conceptual design, textile printing and material development. A recent graduate of the MA Fashion and Textiles course at the University of Derby his main focus is refining his own sustainable laminate fabric, Rolaminate. Gabriel is passionate about contemporary art, Internet culture and fashion and publishes an article every now and again.
GABRIEL ROLAND & MICHALIS CHRISTOPHIDES Derby, England
Michalis Christophides Michalis is a multidisciplinary maker/craftsman who admires nature and believes that technology should evolve to coexist with it. He has a passion for photography and is obsessed with making things, ranging from ultralight camping tents to electronics and software, earrings and even building a house with his father. Michalis is currently in the final year of his Electrical and Electronic Engineering degree at the University of Derby. Cambrian wool, raw slate, Rolaminate and metal – building this lamp led Gabriel and Michalis to explore the qualities of these materials and challenged them to find ways of putting them together. The tactile surfaces of the stone and the weave, which naturally complement each other, are balanced out by high-tech craftsmanship. The custom-made LED-lighting is powerful yet small and energy efficient. And the wool is fused to a laser-cut diffusor which is made from Rolaminate, an innovative laminated textile made from 100% recycled materials. The effortless synergy of natural and man-made, grown and synthetic makes this lamp’s gentle light even more pleasing.
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Above: three bags Image provided by Gabriel
Challenge Design Sketch
Innovative wall lamp showing Cambrian wool fused to a laser cut diffuser made from Gabriel’s Rolaminate, an innovative 100% recycled textile material
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Feltmaker Lorraine Pocklington has been creating items as greenweeds since 2007. She came to textiles after having two pet sheep and wondering what to do with their beautiful fleeces. In 2014, she had her first solo exhibition of plant dyed organic wool in Tŷ Solar at Rhosygilwen, funded by the Arts Council of Wales. Her work has also appeared in several publications including Felt Matters and Stitch magazine. The latter featured an artwork created for Afghanistan Inspiration, a project whereby European textile artists incorporated into their work squares embroidered by women of Laghmani, a village in Afghanistan. This work was exhibited internationally.
greenweeds Aberystwyth, Wales
Lorraine Pocklington
Lorraine is a member of the Cambrian Mountains Wool Group team.
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The design was originally inspired by valenki, Russian felt boots. The felt was left undyed, and trimmed with Cambrian wool fabric dyed using dark crottle scraped from a few rocks of a fallen wall near Llyn Eiddwen on the Mynydd Bach (Ceredigion). No mordant required, and 10% weight of dye stuff to fabric is more than enough to achieve a deep colour.
The leather for the soles is from Welsh Black beef cattle farmed in Devon – Wild Beef. Raised using organic methods, and tanned using oak tannin. No chrome. Sturdy, tough leather, hard to work with but intrinsically special. The lining and welt is from an old suede jacket, with more Cambrian wool fabric. Buttons are suede and leather. Hand stitched in the main, slowly. Stitch by stitch.
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The ever changing landscape: wind turbines
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HELEN FOOT Shrewsbury, England
Helen Foot is woven textile designer and maker of traditional craft with a rebellious edge. From her studio in Shrewsbury, Helen handweaves fabric for her growing array of fashion accessories. Helen’s strong sense of colour has become a signature of her work and her passion for contemporising traditional skills is what drives her to keep pushing the boundaries of her craft. She received a Masters from the Royal College of Art in 2010 and trained before that at Winchester School of Art. In 2011 she was selected by the Crafts Council for their Hothouse program which supports emerging designer makers and has since worked for the organisation as a ‘buddy’ on the scheme. She has designed fashion fabrics for Paul Smith and Alexander McQueen and now regularly undertakes commission weaving for other designers and artists. Helen accompanies her making with curating (including a seminar for Stroud International Textiles) and lecturing (Hereford College of Arts and Birmingham City University). The Challenge: Helen wanted to develop new work that would intersect the disciplines of weave, knit and stitch. Breaking away from her usual style of working with highly colourful yarns, Helen chose instead to work with the Cambrian wool in its natural tone. The creation of the fabric was concentrated around the development of texture and unusual 3 dimensional effects. Having looked at intricate cable knits, macramé and rope knotting techniques for inspiration, Helen developed some fabric samples which combined French knitted tubing with finer spun yarns on the loom.
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Above: ‘Swansea ‘ scarf photograph Ella Ruth Cowperthwaite Above left: photograph Richard Foot
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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I have an MA in Fashion, specialising in Knitwear, from The Royal College of Art, London.
iSEA SURFWEAR Amroth, Wales
Anna Strzelecki
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I set up my own company in 2009 called iSea Surfwear. Based on the outskirts of the seaside village of Amroth, Pembrokeshire, is my little studio and cottage. I design, hand screen print, cut, stitch and finish garments for adults and children. Every item is one of a kind. Hoodies are my most popular garment, they are ideal for the typical British weather all year round! I also make other products, mainly from jersey which I print with my own hand drawn designs using eco, water-based inks. I try to source all my fabrics from British suppliers and I also run a recycling scheme to make sure the customer gets great value and also by reselling garments they are being environmentally friendly. I have wanted to develop a knitwear collection for a while as this is what I specialised in when I was at University. Time and money have held me back, so to get the opportunity to work with the beautiful Cambrian Mountain wool has been a pleasure. I wanted to create one of my existing hoody designs out of the wool as it is a much more sustainable fibre that the synthetic fleece I currently use. I also wanted to experiment with screen printing onto wool using dyes. The whole process went smoothly although it is much more time consuming than using the pre knitted jersey, due to creating the fabric from scratch on a hand powered knitting machine. I hope to develop a knitwear collection in the future using wool and other sustainable fibres.
Above: overlocking the hoody Right: cutting the hand screen printed hood lining Far right: back of hoody Images provided by Anna
With spinning equipment at the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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Jane Withers is a knitted textile artist/ maker, developing contemporary fabrics with traditional techniques. She has worked in design studios for knitted textile companies after graduating from Nottingham Trent University in 1995 with a first class Knitwear degree. In 2003 she started a textile practice at home and developed a range of contemporary knitted fabrics using domestic knitting machines. Janie Knitted Textiles was established in 2005.
JANIE KNITTED TEXTILES Welbeck, England
Jane Withers
Currently she concentrates on making knitted fabrics and products in a studio at the Harley Foundation in Nottinghamshire. Jane works with her partner Michael Hanmer and they produce products for interiors and fashion. With an emphasis on sustainability, wool has become their core material along with linen and cotton. The work in their practice is a direct response to environmental colours, textures and the materials they use together with developing concepts and ideas challenging the conventional use of wool.
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In 2014 we developed a collection of lighting using knitted tubular fabric which is woven onto a metal frame, and created a new light using Cambrian Wool. For the Challenge, we have added colour to the ecru yarn to give an ombre indigo dye effect. The completed light is partly immersed in a shallow dye bath resulting in a graduated colour effect. Wool is ideal for lighting as it is naturally fire retardant and in the washing process we have added a moth proofing too.
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Right: Strand lighting and cushions Image provided by Jane
The ruins of a farmhouse in the Cambrian Mountains: you can see the corner of one of the rooms behind and to the right of the lampshades
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Textiledermy is a celebration of animal life in fabric where my ideas evolve. I recycle fabric and even cut up items of clothing for the right colour or texture (as my husband has discovered). My sculpture is based on a Welsh mule seen grazing next to a derelict barn we are converting into our home (and my workshop) in Kerry, Powys.
JOY DAWES
This has been a wonderful journey of discovery for me, learning from the farmers of this amazing area, the landscape and the vast variety of breeds around us. I used to see sheep, local farmers have helped me to understand, observe and appreciate that sheep have personalities, idiosyncrasies and a natural intelligence, like people.
Stockton-on-Tees, England
The Challenge: Photographs taken on St David’s Day, inspired my creation. I set about developing a basic head in polyester felt and stuffing.
Blackbird Textiles
I then sculpted, using needle felting tools. Adding glass eyes in felted sockets, stitched with wool and threads to achieve detail, texture (even wool eyelashes) allowing the personality to develop. Ears are needle felted and stitched with ordinary sewing threads to achieve colour and detail. By hand appliquéing the head with Cambrian wool fabric and wool tops I was able to create the character of this breed. The ewe’s nose and mouth were covered in black fabric and hand stitched just as a painter would use a brush to blend his paint. The separate woollen skin used floor grade tops, and needle felted into place. Celebrating hand stitching, traditional skills for a modern world.
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Left: Joy Dawes with her Textiledermy Welsh Mule - Image provided by Joy
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre mounted on a working loom
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KIMBERLEY JONES Manchester, England
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My work revolves around the uses of natural material and dyes. I like to use my hands as the main tool of creation and take inspiration from earthy tones and woodland landscapes; making aesthetically sensitive pieces. I am a versatile Textile Artist and enjoy the combination of traditional techniques with contemporary minimalism. For the Cambrian Mountains Challenge I have created a collection of woollen jewellery with natural dyes.
All images provided by Kimberley
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“
I am a crafter of hand knitted oversized scale textiles and installation works made from a selection of beautiful natural fibres and raw materials. With a strong focus on naturally coloured high grade unspun wool from Australia and New Zealand, I create bespoke woollen blanket and throws using industrial sized knitting needles. While the Woollies are the mainstays of my practice, I also craft textile installations both extreme in their scale and the physical challenge they represent for one pair of hands. Each piece is as much a feat of endurance as it is a loving creative process.
LITTLE DANDELION Sydney, Australia
Jaqueline Fink
As my quiet rebellion against mass production, I ensure that each piece is a one of a kind creation: something very personal for the user, lusciously tactile to the touch, highly textural by nature and meticulous in its construction. This is slow craft in its truest sense. As a late comer to textile design and without any technical qualification in fine arts (my law degree has proven not very helpful when it comes to the finer points of knitting), my process is entirely self-taught and is underpinned by three great passions: my need for sensory feedback and my love of both texture and natural fibres. At the heart of my work is the oversized scale my choice of materials allows me to achieve. For the observer, the scale provides a powerful sensory and aesthetic platform to illustrate the beauty and rawness of the natural fibres. The textures are rich, luxurious and have the ability to imbue both solace and joy to the observer. I am a strong advocate of fellow makers of handmade and am a soon to be published author of a book on handmade.
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At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
The view above Ffarmers, Ceredigion
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Liz Clay is a luxury, textile design business, established in 2001, specialising in hand made felt. The collections of exclusive, couture designs combine innovation with superb craftsmanship. Today, studio-based practice is at the heart of Liz’s business, maintaining a hands on approach that defines the brand and signature trademark. Designs have gained recognition worldwide, winning UKTI export awards and development funding from the Crafts Council. Working closely with clients from concept to creation within gallery, fashion and interiors, the aim is to celebrate and surprise, offering a completely new vision for hand felted British wools. Liz confesses to being totally passionate about seeking the potential of the materials she works with:
LIZ CLAY PhD Westbury-sub-Mendip, England
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I love the whole process of making and creating with my hands; to be in control of the process from beginning to end. It is both satisfying and rewarding. I work with British wools, specifically those considered marginal in felt making. Through practice-led research I have discovered exceptional uses for undervalued wools, seeking to mix innovation with traditional craft processes to create fresh, new and original hand felted surfaces. The outcome enables me to add value to underused wools and give prominence to those wools often considered difficult in the felt making process. I am constantly intrigued by and surprised at the design potential these distinctive wools offer.
”
Inspired by the challenge to use Cambrian Mountain Wool, Liz was keen to champion this British wool whilst adding to the growing portfolio of hand pleated designs for her interiors collection. She was convinced this beautiful wool would strike a balance between the attraction of design and the practicality of function. After much creative play, experimentation and working with the wool’s natural characteristics, the outcome demonstrates a uniquely personal celebration of the material: highlighting its appeal as an exquisitely hand crafted, modern textile. 60
Above Pleated felt acoustic wall panels All images provided by Liz
Left: Cambrian Wool acoustic panels Wall Installation
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LLYNFI TEXTILES Mydroilyn, Wales
Sue James & Emily James
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From their individual rural studios, Sue and Emily work together as Llynfi Textiles, designing and making a small collection of contemporary womenswear, which they like to think of as Cottage Couture. Sue knits and Emily stitches, and the emphasis is on provenance and sustainability with a focus on wool. The wool yarns and fabrics are British wherever possible, with local sourcing and Welsh weavers featuring heavily. Inspiration often comes from the past, from the stories of women and industry, with a fusion to the Mid Wales environment. They are Cambrian Mountains Wool licensees and Sue is a member of the Cambrian Mountains Wool Group.
Design sketch and samples photograph Sue James
Above Emily James’ tailored jacket at Hay Festival
Sue James’ Elizabethan inspired knitted jacket photographed at the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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Maria Lalić studied Textile Art at the renowned ‘Cooks’ College in Llandaff. She gained her BEd in 1979 but taught only briefly before moving to work in the NHS. In 1999, Maria was runner up in the Embroiderers’ Guild’s international President’s Cup Competition. She studied Creative Textiles with the Open College of Arts and in 2007 Maria gained a First Class Honours degree in Combined Studies (Textile Art, Creative Writing and Welsh) from the University of Glamorgan.
MARIA LALIĆ Bridgend, Wales
As a Textile Artist, Maria is inspired by the legend, landscape and people of Wales but she also uses recycled or natural materials to craft dolls, teddy bears and other items with a distinctly nostalgic feel. Her exhibitions include The Commoners of Coity Wallia (solo – 2012) and From the Wood (joint with Willow artist Maggie Shaw – 2013) at Oriel Lliw, Pontardawe. In 2014 she was recipient of an Arts Council of Wales grant for the creation and exhibition of a body of Textile Art The Keepers, the development of which could be tracked in real time through an on-line exposition. Maria writes a monthly blog on her website in which she seeks to demystify the design and creative process for those interested in Textile Art.
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Above: Maria’s Caru Bears made with recycled Welsh blankets, image provided by Maria
Maria’s Teddy Bears and Rag Dolls on the steps of an old barn at Great Abbey Farm, Strata Florida, Ceredigion 2015
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Mick Sheridan is a second generation upholsterer living and working in rural Wales. He is known as a specialist in wool fabrics, particularly Welsh wool. ‘Inside out chair’ – traditional side chair reupholstered using horse-hair and hessian covered in Cambrian Wool Twill fabric.
MICK SHERIDAN Llangadog, Wales
The chair has been stripped, cleaned and reupholstered in the traditional way, handstitched with horse hair and hessian. The top cover is then stitched into the edge-roll, maintaining the contours of the inside of the chair. His ‘inside out’ chairs have been dubbed the ‘Richard Rogers School of Upholstery’ in reference to the architect’s famous placement of building services (lifts, ducts, pipes, etc) on the outside of his buildings. Mick also worked with Rebecca Connolly on the upholstering of a long footstool for the Challenge.
“
I hate having to cover up beautifully hand stitched upholstery, it takes so long to complete and then it’s just smoothed over with wadding. Most people have no idea what’s underneath the fabric of the chair they’re sitting on and certainly no idea how complicated it can be, so I started incorporating the top cover into the process, displaying a little bit of the inside on the outside.
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Upholstered chair Image provided by Mick
Above: the ‘inside out’ chair
Inside out chair in the setting of a Cambrian mountains cottage
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Nicola Gates is a weaver and curator from County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland, with a passion for craft heritage and sustainable contemporary design. Driven by a fascination with the inherent properties of natural fibres, especially wool, Nicola aims to use natural materials and traditional techniques in a contemporary way. Her work is primarily intuitive and technique-focused, with inspiration often coming from the qualities of the material she is working with or the possibilities of a particular weaving technique.
OLLA NUA Enniskillen, Northern Ireland
Nicola Gates
Since graduating from the National College of Art and Design, Dublin, in 2005 with a degree in Textile Design, Nicola has worked in the museum and heritage sector alongside developing her skills in weaving and feltmaking. She is currently designing her first collection of handwoven textiles, which she plans to launch in September 2015 under her brand Olla Nua, a name derived from the Irish for ‘new wool’. Nicola’s weft-faced rug has been woven on her Swedish floor loom, which is powered entirely by hand and foot. The geometric design of diamonds and chevrons is based on a sketch of ancient stone inscriptions made during a visit to Newgrange passage grave in County Meath, Ireland, which dates from the Neolithic period. The weaving technique uses a ‘plain weave’ base of indigo-dyed yarn, interwoven with shots of twill in natural-coloured yarn to create the pattern. The rug has a linen warp, which is hidden by the dense Cambrian wool weft. The challenge has encouraged her to try new things, with this being both the first time she has woven a rug and dyed with indigo!
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Packed and ready for shipping Process images provided by Nicola Gates Rug weaving
Completed rug Soft and warm
Indigo dyeing colour is built up over several dips
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
Sleyng the reed after threading
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RAMNATION was launched in 2013 by Creative Director Talia Hussain. Talia is a multi-disciplinary creative with experience in printmaking, graphic & web design, garment design, pattern cutting and construction. While pursuing a successful career in advertising and communications, she earned a professional Diploma in Fashion Design and Technology. Drawing on 15 years of branding and communications expertise, she created RAMNATION as a fashion brand with a genuine story about materials and creative manufacturing at it’s heart.
RAMNATION Brighton, England
Talia Hussain
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Talia’s design ethos is influenced by her rural upbringing and Bauhaus inspired arts education, a tradition in which design is informed by materials and manufacturing techniques. She believes that using natural, renewable materials combined with modern communications and distribution technologies will allow her to create a new paradigm for classic sustainable fashion. Talia lives in Brighton, England with a very large and sociable cat. For the Challenge, Talia dyed Cambrian yarn with woad. The pullover was knitted up in panels on a Brother machine, using a colour changing attachment to migrate colours from dark to pale. After washing and blocking, the garment was dip dyed using pomegranate and chlorophyllin. Her full making notes are on the Cambrian Wool website.
Man’s pullover Image left supplied by Talia
The yarn was dyed with woad, in dark and light blue, with the made up garment being dip dyed in two more plant dye concoctions to produce the graduated colour effect.
The drapery counter at the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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Rebecca Connolly has Welsh heritage and was born in Wales, where she still has family. She now lives in Cirencester in the Cotswolds. In 2015, Rebecca completed a BA (Hons) in Textile Design, specialising in weave for interiors, at Bath School of Art and Design. Rebecca entered the Bradford Textile Society Design Competition 2014, winning an award in the British Wool Section for a woven blanket fabric. At the ceremony, she received a special award from the Campaign For Wool to further her experience in the textile industry.
REBECCA CONNOLLY Cirencester, England
Her designs were exhibited in the Campaign For Wool’s fifth anniversary exhibition at Southwark Cathedral, London in autumn 2014. Her work now appears on the Campaign For Wool’s online OneWool Gallery. Rebecca worked with upholsterer Mick Sheridan for the Challenge. Rebecca is fascinated with traditional textile manufacture; she has been approached by the Cotswold Conservation Board to create weaving courses as part of their rural skills program. She is a member of the Stroudwater Textile Trust whose aim is to promote the area’s industrial heritage, particularly concerning wool and weaving, keeping Mills open to the public. Rebecca is passionate about wool, specifically working with the diverse yarns made from British sheep breeds, and uses natural plant dyes over chemical dyes whenever practicable. Rebecca’s two looms were acquired from the late Eileen Chadwick, ensuring that their craft making will continue…
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Weaving her Cambrian Mountains Wool fabric Image provided by Rebecca Connolly
Rebecca worked with upholsterer Mick Sheridan to produce this footstool
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
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REBEKAH ARCHER Northcote, Australia
Rebekah Archer recently completed a Bachelor of Arts in Textile Design at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, majoring in weave. She was runner up in the 2014 Design Institute of Australia Graduate of the Year Awards in the Fashion and Textiles category. After graduating, Rebekah completed a 3 month Artist in Residency placement with The Australian Tapestry Workshop in South Melbourne and exhibited work as a part of the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival. Her work focuses on sustainable fashion, with a core philosophy based around the principles of slow design. She considers adaptability, durability and purpose as an imperative part of the creation process. Rebekah is primarily interested in the act of making; her work is on ongoing study of what it means to holistically and transparently construct textiles by hand. Rebekah has recently moved to the UK. She currently runs a sustainable woven textile and jewelry label where she creates contemporary, one off pieces using natural fibers and discarded materials such as copper, bone and recycled yarn. She has exhibited textile and jewelry work locally and internationally. For the Challenge, Rebekah focused on exploring woven shibori techniques. This process involved weaving a waxed cotton supplementary weft yarn on top of and alongside the Cambrian Mountains woolen warp and weft. Thick, lightly felted roving was woven alongside finely spun yarn to create areas of texture and contrast. Once 3 metres of cloth was woven and cut from the loom the supplementary waxed cotton weft cords were pulled and tied together, gathering the cloth and creating a resist. Natural Indigo was used to dye the bundle of cloth, creating the shibori style, uneven stripe patterns. The waxed cotton yarn was pulled from the cloth, and any gaps left were closed with the washing and expansion of the wool. A zero waste garment pattern was designed and used to create the final piece.
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Hand woven Image provided by Rebekah
On the loom image provided by Rebekah
Woven and prepared for dyeing image provided by Rebekah
Cwmystwyth, Cambrian Mountains
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Rose Sharp Jones is a designer maker working with knitted, crocheted & printed textiles. She completed a BA in Textile Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design and after returning to study, gaining an MA in Textile Design at Chelsea College of Art & Design, she established her business. Since then she has participated in a range of exhibitions and retail shows throughout the UK.
ROSE SHARP JONES London, England
Much of Rose’s inspiration comes from traditional textiles – how fabrics were made and used as well as their aesthetic appearance. Her work draws on traditional craft techniques, applying them to contemporary products. Traditional hand knit and crochet stitches are used alongside machine knitted and screen printed fabrics; the collection includes a variety of designs with an overall aesthetic focusing on texture, structure and natural yarns. Rose’s textile designs are applied to a range of products for the home as well as a collection of wearable accessories. British wool is used for all knitted and crocheted pieces. Printed fabrics are hand screen printed using environmentally friendly, water based pigments, onto fabrics that are woven in UK mills. All products are hand made in Rose’s studio in London. She also works as a freelance knit & crochet designer and teaches a range of classes and workshops.
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Suffolk Grey stool and Spike Cushion Image provided by Rose
Welsh poppies and ferns in a ‘natural’ Cambrian Mountains garden
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Ruth Packham has been living in Ceredigion for over 20 years, moving shortly after completing her Fine Art degree. She is an artist who makes things. Ruth made her first piece of felt seven years ago and was instantly enthralled by the way in which a pile of fluff could be transformed into a strong piece of fabric. She discovered the potential for making 3 dimensional objects with wool fibre and made hats and vases. She prefers though to make more sculptural shapes, pushing the boundaries of what can be done with wool fibre. So far she feels she has just scratched the surface of what can be achieved.
RUTH PACKHAM Borth, Wales
Needle felting came a couple of years later. At about the same time Ruth’s inspirational focus switched from plants to animals, but mostly to birds, taking after her nature loving parents and Grandfather. Ruth makes quirky soft sculptures using her own photographs, or those that have caught her eye through research, as reference. In 2014 Ruth travelled to the Netherlands to work with Canadian felt artist Andrea Graham. From this experience she was able to change the way she creates some of her birds enabling her to make larger and more sculptural pieces. This combination of needle felt and wet felt is how her most recent work is produced. In 2014 she took part in the Muscat Festival in Oman, worked in Italy and showed at a craft fair in Brandbu, Norway. She regularly takes part in wool shows and craft fairs throughout the UK. Her felt making journey continues with moving her work into more gallery based projects.
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Chapel on the rock with the lightning tree
Siop (Shop) photograph Ruth Packham
The village at Llyn Eiddwen
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SUZI PARK & CLARE BAUMFIELD Newcastle Emlyn, Wales
Suzi Park and Claire Baumfield met at Graduate Fashion week in 2011. Suzi had been approached by a business entrepreneur who came to college to discuss a possible student fashion competition to work towards a range of menswear to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the company he worked for, Bluebird (of landspeed record fame). The concept was amazing and when Suzi saw Claire’s degree collection at GFW, she believed that we need look no further as Claire’s collection was perfect. Unfortunately, the whole project did not take off, despite Claire and Suzi working extremely hard, the project never got off the ground. The Cambrian Wool design challenge gave Suzi and Claire the opportunity to collaborate. (Claire is a menswear designer and Suzi a textile designer and embroiderer). Using one of the designs from Claires original Graduate Degree collection, a men’s shirt was selected and together a design using the Cambrian Mountains woven fabric was used which would be the base fabric for the shirt design, with additional naturally dyed yarns which would be used for the embroidery detail on the shirt. Suzi is a member of the Cambrian Mountains Wool Group.
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Design Sketch
Embroidery development photograph Suzi Park
Woven fabric and yarn dyed ready for use photograph Suzi Park
Shirt exhibited at the Hay Festival of Literature and the Arts
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Rainy Williamson lives and works on a little Lancashire smallholding with her husband, sons, cats, chickens, ducks, sheep and the odd turkey!
THE LITTLE LANCASHIRE SMALLHOLDING Bolton, England
Rainy Williamson
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Rainy designs and makes jewellery and textile items for the home using mainly Briitish aluminium and wool. As a qualified teacher, she also teaches craft workshops on the smallholding. The flat cap beret was made for this challenge by first dying the wool by hand, then crocheting the piece. The next stage, which is always a bit of trial and error, is the fulling or felting to shrink and combine the fibres to get a stiffer denser material for the cap. Whilst still wet, the cap was shaped by hand and allowed to dry.
Brooch and needlefelt bird Image provided by Rainy
Beret photograph Rainy Williamson
Exhibited at the Hay Festival
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TISHYA OEDIT London, England
“
As a London-based, Dutch born, fashion designer (28) I specialize in knitwear. After having finished my bachelor degree in Fashion Design (2010) in the Netherlands, I worked for several companies, living in several places, before settling in London and starting a knitwear label in 2014 under my own name: Tishya Oedit™. Within this label I aim to translate my love for colour, print and texture to meticulously designed items that are aesthetically pleasing and of high quality. My designs are developed and made with great attention to detail from first thought to final check. I draw inspiration from a wide range of subjects, from flora and fauna to architecture and from historical costumes to contemporary ceramics. I like to apply bold patterns, strong colour contrasts and unexpected elements in my work.
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Gloves dyed with natural dyes
Byzantium scarf, image provided by Tishya
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“
I have worked as an independent designer/ maker since graduating in 2004 from the Royal Academy of Art, The Hague, The Netherlands, with a degree in printed and constructed textiles specialising in weave.
VERONICA POCK The Hague, The Netherlands
In 2007, I was awarded a start-up scholarship by the Fonds BKVB, Amsterdam, and this enabled me to set up my weaving studio. My work has received prizes from the European Wool Awards 2003 (funded by the Australian Wool Innovation company) and the Bradford Textile Society, and has been published in ‘Patterns – New Surface Design’ by Drusilla Cole (Laurence King Publishing, London, UK) and Textiel Plus magazine (in Dutch; issue number 211, Spring 2010). As a weaver, my aim is to create textiles with depth and character using colour and structure. To me, a textile is not simply a flat piece of material; it is many layered, and the story behind the textile, the process of its making and things that have happened to it during that process, are of great importance. Winning the European Wool Awards sparked my interest in the unique properties of wool and how it behaves in combination with other yarns. By mixing wool with other yarns in the warp and weft and using contrasting weave structures I create highly textured one-off items such as scarves and cushions. Originally from the UK, I moved to The Netherlands in 2000. I now work in my studio in The Hague with views over the city towards the coast. I am inspired by the colours and forms of nature, and in particular by holidays to the West Coast of Scotland. I currently sell my work locally and via the internet.
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photograph Veronica Pock
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Warped Textiles was established in 2014 by Chantal Balmer Allen, an award winning Scottish Textile Designer and graduate from the renowned Glasgow School of Art. Specializing in high quality woven home-ware accessories Chantal samples her unique collections inhouse, developing them on her hand and computerised weaving looms before working with local mills to produce small batches of fabric.
WARPED TEXTILES Glasgow, Scotland
Chantal Balmer Allen
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“
Passionate about textiles and yarn I was eager to accept the Cambrian Mountain Wool Challenge and showcase my designs using such a high quality British product. My aim was to experiment with the CM Wool on my table loom & to explore how the yarn worked alongside elasticated fibers to create organic, three dimensional woven forms. Using the traditional techniques of weaving, I began by making a warp of CM Wool & another of elastic. The threads were then wound onto my 8-shaft table loom & drawn through the looms heddles in a specific order. The threading & weaving process was repeated three times with a different sequencing of threads to ensure a unique fabric of 98% CM Wool was woven each time. The colour palette was kept neutral to highlight the purity & provenance of this beautiful yarn. The final woven fabrics were then gently washed in soft Scottish water before being dried outside in the sunshine and sewn into an exclusive range of cushions.
At the National Wool Museum, Dre-fach Felindre
Samples images provided by Chantel
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Yuka Jourdain designs and creates mixed media jewellery in an elegant and colourful contemporary style. Each unique piece is carefully hand crafted to achieve wearable and comfortable pieces of art and style.
YUKA JOURDAIN Chapel-en-le-Frith, England
She tends to select quality natural fibres as the main material for her work because of their beauty and comfortable nature incorporating with other materials to give some twists to her creations. In her recent works hand felted wool and shaped wires are stitched neatly together by hand using thread to make interesting 3D shapes. Born and raised in Japan she moved to France then to the U.K. Multi-cultural experiences and encounters have certainly been affecting her work. Now based in Chapel-en-le-Frith she is always inspired by the surrounding nature. She admires that simple details in nature form such complicated and wonderful shapes together. Her jewellery is on display for sale in galleries in Derbyshire and museum shops in Cheshire and Manchester. She exhibits at craft fairs as an individual artist and also as a member of Peak District Artisans.
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On Welsh slate
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Left: Pil
The Cambrian Mountain Wool Group support small wool producers in the region by putting them in touch with designermakers interested in using their wool for products licensed under the Cambrian Mountains Wool scheme. These producers have flocks that are registered as exempt from the British Wool Marketing Scheme and therefore can sell their wool off the farm.
A CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS WOOL PRODUCER
Caroline Lewis
One such producer is Caroline Lewis, a specialist wool producer whom we visited in the Spring of 2015, during lambing. Caroline won the Award for the exhibitor with the highest number of points in the Open Fleece Competition at The Royal Welsh Show in 2012, 2013 and 2014, and was Jacob Sheep Society Wales Champion Small Flock in 2011. In other words lovely wool! Caroline had taken on the care of an abandoned weakling Texel lamb, Pil. Along with her other ‘pet’ lambs, each of them the third of triplets, he was being bottle fed around the clock. With the rest of her duties still to be done, not much sleep was being had at that time. Opposite are a few images that provide a glimpse of this small farm and its inhabitants, typical of ‘smallholdings’ throughout this region. Sadly we learned that after about 6 weeks of fun and frolics in the Spring sunshine, little Pil suddenly passed away. It certainly wasn’t for lack of love and care. We’d hazard a guess that all along when Pil had been abandoned, ‘mom’ had just known her energy had to be spent on his surviving twin... A full account of our visit is shown on our blog.
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FURTHER INFORMATION
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DESIGNERS
Allison Volek Shelton Shutters & Shuttles *
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allison@shuttersandshuttles.com www.shuttersandshuttles.com
Allistair Covell *
allistaircovell@gmail.com
8 allistaircovell.com Amanda Graham *
amandajgraham@gmail.com
Ceri Williams
Gabriel Roland
*
*
cezzaewilliams11@aol.com
Chantal Balmer Allen Warped Textiles *
8
chantal@warped-textiles.com www.warped-textiles.com
Claire Cawte Claire Cawte Textiles *
claire@clairecawtetextiles.co.uk
8 clairecawtetextiles.co.uk
Anna Strzelecki iSea Surfwear
Clare & Michael Vincent
*
*
8
anna@iseasurfwear.co.uk www.iseasurfwear.co.uk
vinnyping@hotmail.co.uk
Elizabeth Lloyd Carole King *
8 8
mail@carolekingart.co.uk carolekingart.co.uk nantdesigns.co.uk
Carole Wadham Carole Wadham Millinery *
cwbath@btinternet.com
*
Emma Brooks
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emmabrooks59@hotmail.co.uk www.emmajoannebrooks.co.uk
8 carolewadham.wordpress.com
Flora Collingwood-Norris Collingwood-Norris Design
Carys Boyle Carys Boyle Ceramics
8 collingwoodnorrisdesign.com
*
carysbceramics@live.co.uk
8 www.carysboyleceramics.com
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*
Helen Foot MA RCA *
studio@helenfoot.co.uk
8 www.helenfoot.co.uk Jane Withers Janie Knitted Textiles *
janieknittedtextiles@btconnect.com
8 janieknittedtextiles.co.uk Jaqueline Fink Little Dandelion *
hello@littledandelion.com
8 www.littledandelion.com
liz@cantontheloom.co.uk
8 www.catontheloom.co.uk
*
gabriel-roland@hotmail.com
8 www.gabriel-roland.tumblr.com 8 www.roughoutline.tumblr.com
info@collingwoodnorrisdesign.com
Joy Dawes Blackbird Textiles *
blackbirdtextiles@gmail.com
Karin Hines Celestine and the Hare *
karin@celestineandthehare.com
8 www.celestineandthehare.com
DESIGNERS
Kimberley Jones *
joneskimberley@live.com
8 www.kimberleytextiles.com
Penny McIntyre Think Positive
Suzi Park Make it in Wales
*
*
penny@thinkpositiveprints.com
8 thinkpositiveprints.com
suzi@makeitinwales.co.uk
8 www.makeitinwales.co.uk
Liz Clay PhD *
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liz@lizclay.co.uk lizclay.co.uk
Rainy Williamson The Little Lancashire Smallholding * rainy@thelittlelancashiresmallholding.co.uk
Lorraine Pocklington greenweeds *
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lorraine@greenweeds.com greenweeds.co.uk
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thelittlelancashiresmallholding.co.uk
Rebecca Connolly *
rebecca.connolly09@bathspa.ac.uk
Maria Lalić
Rebekah Archer
*
*
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maria@marialalic.co.uk marialalic.co.uk
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rebekah.e.archer@gmail.com www.loricadesign.com
Michalis Christophides
Rose Sharp Jones
*
*
m.christophides@theiet.org
Mick Sheridan Mick Sheridan Upholstery *
mick.sheridan@mail.com
8 msupholstery.blogspot.com
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mail@rosesharpjones.co.uk rosesharpjones.co.uk
talia@ramnation.co.uk
Tishya Oedit *
studio@tishyaoedit.com
8 tishyaoedit.com Veronica Pock *
veronica_pock@hotmail.com
8 www.veronicapock.com Yuka Jourdain *
yukajourdain@gmail.com
8 www.yukajourdain.com
*
ruthpackham@gmail.com
8 ruthpackham.com Sue James Llynfi Textiles
*
*
8
*
8 ramnation.co.uk
Ruth Packham
Nicola Gates Olla Nua hello@ollanua.com www.ollanua.com
Talia Hussain RAMNATION
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sue@llynfitextiles.co.uk llynfitextiles.co.uk
For up to date information and contact details:
8 cambrianmountainswool.org Facebook: CambrianWool Twitter: @CambrianWool
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USEFUL ADDRESSES The Cambrian Mountains Initiative 10c The Science Park Llanbadarn Fawr Aberystwyth Ceredigion SY23 3AH ' *
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01970 639 410 / 434 enquiry@cambrianmountains.co.uk www.cambrianmountains.co.uk
British Wool Marketing Board Welsh Regions Unit 21 Dyffryn Ind Estate Pool Road Newtown Powys SY16 3BD *
wo@britishwool.org.uk
8 britishwool.org.uk
Curtis Wool Direct Ltd Lawrence House Dowley Gap Business Park Bingley BD16 1WA
8 www.curtiswooldirect.co.uk PLANED The Old School Station Road Narberth SA67 7DU *
information@planed.org.uk
8 www.planed.org.uk
National Wool Museum Dre-Fach Felindre Llandysul Carmarthenshire SA44 5UP
8 www.museumwales.ac.uk/wool
Cambrian Mountains Wool Group
Jude Howard Red Apple Yarn The Old Post Office 5 College St Lampeter SA48 7DY
The Campaign for Wool P O Box 1213, Bradford BD1 9XA
8 www.redappleyarn.co.uk
8 www.campaignforwool.org
Lorraine Pocklington greenweeds design Creative Unit 7 Aberystwyth Arts Centre Penglais Aberystwyth SY23 4GL
The Natural Fibre Company Pipers Cl Pennygillam Way Launceston PL15 7PJ
'
01970 623 303
8 www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk
8 www.greenweeds.com
Aneurin Jones Harvest Moon: The Life and Work of Artist Aneurin Jones, 2014, Y Lolfa Cyf, ISBN 978-1784610715
Sue James Llynfi Textiles Y Felin Mydroilyn SA48 7QY
8 www.aneurinjones.co.uk
Juliet Morris Ystrad Farm Brechfa SA32 7QW
Meirion Jones
8 www.ystradorganics.co.uk
8 www.meirion-jones.com
*
ceibwr@yahoo.com
8 www.llynfitextiles.co.uk Suzi Park Make it in Wales 1 Courtyard Cottage Pentrecagal Newcastle Emlyn SA38 9HX
8 www.makeitinwales.co.uk
CAMBRIAN WOOL ROLL CALL The Wool Group: Jude Howard , Lorraine Pocklington, Sue James, Suzi Park Aled Davies and Nicole Aarons of the Cambrian Mountains Initiative for their work on this project, and the Board of the Cambrian Mountains Initiative for their support British Wool Marketing Board for facilitating the purchase of the Cambrian wool, and Daniel Isbecque of Curtis Wool Direct for his help with purchase and processing. Kathryn Bradbury, Charles Bowen-Perkins, Jess Morgan and Juliet Morris for their work on the project Challenge Selection Panel guests: Laura Thomas, Eifion Griffiths (Melyn Tregwynt), James Furse (Cambrian Mountains Initiative), Jen Jones (Welsh Quilt Centre) The National Wool Museum for providing the facility to photograph our Welsh wool in such an appropriate and photogenic location and Sue James for her styling at the museum. Artists Aneurin Jones and Meirion Jones for their permission to reproduce their paintings of the Cambrian Mountains region for this book on pages 7 and 9 All work shown here is assumed copyright the respective designers in accordance with the Challenge rules, all rights reserved. Book by Lorraine Pocklington greenweeds, photography by John Pocklington unless otherwise stated.
Baby Bootees Jude Howard
99
101
www.cambrianmountainswool.org
102