Zosia Harris Sienna Alderidge Power Dressing Elena Andrews Hannah Wells

POWER DRESSING

THE RISE OF THE FEMALE ESTABLISHMENT IN THE WORKPLACE

Elena Andrews Hannah Wells

The empowerment of women through their clothing choices is not only prevalent currently, but also deeply rooted in the past. The emergence of the first significant movement was sparked by the end of the First World War when women – who would have previously taken up the stereotypical housewife role – were now more economically involved, which played a crucial role in maintaining the economy. The former conception that – women were not suited to executive business positions – was eradicated in the minds of female citizens. For ambitious women to gain the mutual respect of male co-workers in the workplace, required them to be perceived differently. Hence, the term ‘Power Dressing’ was incarnated. Power Dressing refers to the fashion style that was previously typical of the business and political environment. Although this form of statement dressing was first discovered in the 1920s, it became particularly prevalent in the 1970s and 1980s when it was brought to popularity by John T. Molloy – who wrote the manuals ‘Dress for Success’ (1975) and ‘Women: Dress for Success’ (1980) which overall suggested a gender-specific dress code. These became incredibly popular within the female community as the books addressed a new type of female worker – one who enters a typically masculine work environment; advising them of a ‘uniform’ which would help them acquire authority, respect and power at work.

The main purpose of Power Dressing was to de-sexualise the female body.

This conservative style was achieved by directly mimicking the male wardrobe. The typical ‘Power Dressing’ outfit would divide the female body into two sections; the upper half of the body was covered by a jacket to de-emphasise breasts, while the lower portion was covered by a skirt, as a reminder of femininity. The origins of ‘Power Dressing’ can be found in the Chanel suit of the 1920s. This suit, being the very first professional suit specifically designed for women, represented a turning point. The Chanel suit included traditionally masculine elements, which offered women a very authoritative appearance, while also leaving space for a refined and sophisticated look. The most important innovation of the Chanel suit was that it was deliberately designed to adapt to the changing lifestyle of women who, due to the shift during and after World War One, were slowly entering environments which would formerly have been all male. This suit was the trigger that encouraged women to achieve their professional goals, providing them with comfort and mobility to fit with their now-independent and active lifestyles. The Chanel suit further allowed women of the time to de-sexualise their femininity, giving themselves a more masculine appearance in order for them to be accepted as equals in the professional sphere.

The renovation of the women’s suit and the introduction of a more feminine spin to Power Dressing could only be achieved when enough women were clearly established as authoritative in the work environment. As women became more established and well respected in executive roles, women wearing a suit no longer required the effort to blend in with men but rather they wished to stand out and define a clear visual presence. This led to the removal of feminised imitations of men’s professional garments and the addition of romantic ruffle blouses, neck ties and extravagant jewellery, mixed in with bold patterns and bright colours, which we can now link with the modern form of Power Dressing we know today.

Women no longer used the suit as a form of camouflage but instead used it to make a statement.

‘Power Dressing’, as a new fashion phenomenon, has its symbolic public figures. Margaret Thatcher was one of the first to incorporate the spirit of power suits and had the reputation as the ‘original’ female power dresser. Her personal style, according to Vogue, reinvented John T. Molloy’s suggestions in order to create an appearance appropriate for the role of Prime Minister. Margaret Thatcher was able to pave the way for all the careermotivated women who were trying to succeed in a male-dominated world and convinced them that they can, like her, find support in clothing and accessories to communicate authority and power. Similarly, Hillary Clinton is a contemporary icon of power dressing; with her pantsuits, she is a follower of the Thatcher style. The ‘Power Dressing’ movement was significant in building a new type of working woman appearing in the society at the time. With the help of an empowering self-presentation such as power suits, women were trying to break through the ice and step into society with the intention of reaching highpowered positions, which previously were held by men. The development of power dressing was pivotal in bringing public visibility to women in executive, or business, positions.