Catering News ME - May 2016

Nathan Outlaw The Michelin-starred chef prepares to bring his sustainable fine-dining seafood to Dubai’s Burj Al Arab

SECRETS OF A FOOD STYLIST Food Art Concept’s Caroline Ismail reveals what it takes to create a picture perfect dish

THE TRUTH ABOUT PALEO As the Paleo diet gains traction in the Middle East, Catering News asks whether it’s as healthy as it seems

Connecting F&B professionals with industry knowledge MAY 2016

A lack of education on nutrition is one of the key factors contributing to the Middle East’s childhood obesity epidemic. Catering News explores the role chefs play in tackling the issue

What's cooking

Contents

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8 | WHAT’S COOKING? Chef Izu Ani to set up research and development hub; Vineet Bhatia will open third Dubai restaurant; Forty F&B outlets planned for Dubai’s Habtoor City 14 | NEW PLACES JB’s, Amwaj Rotana; Sumosan, Billionaire Mansion, Taj Dubai; Weslodge, JW Marriott Marquis 18 | FEEDING THE FUTURE A lack of education on nutrition is one of the key factors contributing to the Middle East’s childhood obesity epidemic. Catering News explores the role chefs play in tackling the issue.

24 | TOTORA CEBICHERIA PERUANA One of a string of Peruvian restaurants to open in Dubai International Financial Centre this year, Totora Cebicheria Peruana promises to compete with a truly authentic taste of Peru.

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24 April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Managing Director Walid Zok Walid@bncpublishing.net Director Rabih Najm Rabih@bncpublishing.net Director Wissam Younane Wissam@bncpublishing.net Group Publishing Director Diarmuid O'Malley Dom@bncpublishing.net European Sales Manager Irene Fernandez saleseurope@bncpublishing.net Group Editor

Melanie Mingas

Melanie@bncpublishing.net

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28 | THE SECRETS OF A FOOD STYLIST Catering News goes behind the scenes with Food Art Concept’s Caroline Ismail to find out what it takes to create a picture perfect dish 32 | GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Phil Crozier, director of wine for Gaucho Restaurants discusses his mission to open Dubai up to an exciting new world of Argentinian vintages, and the unique challenges he faces along the way

48 | MARKETPLACE: A showcase of the latest cutlery products on the market, with style, functionality and user-comfort the key attributes of the most competitive players 4

Catering NEWS ME April 2016

Art Director Aaron Sutton Aaron@bncpublishing.net Marketing Executive Mark Anthony Monzon Mark@bncpublishing Advisory Panel

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36 | NATHAN OUTLAW British Michelin-starred chef, Nathan Outlaw is getting ready to introduce a more accessible F&B offer to the luxurious Burj Al Arab, with his signature fine-dining, sustainable seafood 40 | OUT OF THIS WORLD: THAI We examine the trends, preparations and challenges of Thai cuisine in the Middle East

Editor Crystal Chesters Crystal@bncpublishing.net

Bobby Krishna - Dubai Municipality Food Control Department Izu Ani - La Serre John Gillespie - Tonique Beverage Consultancy Justin Galea - Le Royal Meridien Abu Dhabi Mark Patten - Atlantis, The Palm Dubai Markus Thesleff - Whissle Group Michael Kitts - Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management Naim Maadad - Gates Hospitality Photographers

Audrey Hastings Neville Hopwood Abhi Shek Photography

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Editor's Letter

Driving Positive Change More than 10 years ago, Jamie Oliver made waves across the United Kingdom with his ‘Jamie’s School Dinners’ series, which highlighted the grotesque reality of school canteens.

He worked out that schools were spending on average 37 pence (57 cents) on each child, with popular items on the menu things like bread rolls stuffed with French fries, burgers dripping with grease, and the notorious Bernard Matthews "Turkey Twizzlers", which ended up being banned by local councils throughout the country as a result of the show.

The programme even caught the attention of Tony Blair, the British Prime Minister at the time, who took serious steps to overhaul school canteens, banning a number of unhealthy items. More recently, Oliver’s campaigns have been focused on sugar. He fought hard to encourage the government to introduce a sugar levy in the UK as part of its Childhood Obesity Strategy and was delighted when earlier this year his efforts paid off, with the announcement that a sugar tax will come into play in 2018.

Oliver’s campaigns show just how influential chefs can be in acting as ambassadors for healthy eating. He is an inspiration for others, such as ex-La Serre head chef Izu Ani, who is looking to set up his own research and development hub where he will educate children on where food actually comes from, and why eating well is so important for the human body. Meanwhile, celebrity chef Gary Rhodes has been acting in a similar vein to Oliver in Dubai, having introduced his Rhodes Programme two years ago to educate children on

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Catering NEWS ME April 2016

nutrition, by opening them up to a range of new flavours and options.

Rob Paterson, CEO of Aqualine, the parent company of the Rhodes Programme, believes that chefs at all levels should be following in Rhodes’ and Oliver’s footsteps by championing healthy eating, even simply by offering smaller portions of adults dishes for children. By introducing healthy options to their menus, chefs give children a wider choice rather than channeling them toward the known best-sellers such as chicken nuggets, fish fingers and fries, and many people working in the F&B industry in the region are already on board with this idea.

While Ryan Waddell, head chef at Reform Social & Grill has relaunched the children’s menu to include grilled chicken breast with new potatoes and green beans, and has done away with chicken nuggets, Rosalind Parsk, head chef at The Ivy, says that steamed fish and vegetables is one of the healthy new options on offer.

A challenge however, is that parents often prioritise getting their kids simply to eat a full meal, rather than choosing the healthiest option on the menu, particularly since dining out is normally a treat and they want the children to enjoy their food. However, perhaps as menus begin to evolve, and nutritional education in schools is ramped up, kids will naturally be drawn more often toward the healthy options.

Ultimately it’s up to chefs to offer the choice on their menus so that instead of reinforcing bad eating habits, they become ambassadors for positive change.

Follow us on our social media pages @cateringnewsme /cateringnewsme cateringnewsme

Crystal Chesters Editor

What's cooking

P9: Vineet Bhatia's new restaurant //P10: Mahiki Dubai // P11: New openings //

What's cooking?

For all the latest News, Visit www.hotelnewsme.com Follow us on Facebook for up-to-the-minute breaking news Read the latest edition on www.hotelnewsme.com

Izu Ani has left his role as head chef of La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie

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Chef Izu Ani to set up research and development hub

C

hef Izu Ani has left La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie and has plans to open a research and development hub in Dubai.

The Nigerian-born chef who grew up in London, first came to Dubai to launch La Petite Maison and in 2012 opened La Serre, a French/ Mediterranean concept, which today is the most successful restaurant in Emaar Hospitality’s portfolio.

In an interview with Catering News Middle East, Ani said: “I want to evolve the 8

Catering NEWS ME April 2016

culture not just take from it, so that’s why I’d love to do a research and development hub where the creativity has no limits or boundaries. We can strive to set a mark and be part of the community.”

The research and development hub will be located within a villa and will include an educational aspect where children and adults will come to learn about food. However, Ani is clear that it will not be a consultancy.

“I have to impart my knowl-

edge to the younger generations. If I can change one kid’s perspective on how to eat, I’ve done my job. I want to put a structure in place so that whoever is yearning to understand a bit more about what we do, please come, I want to share what I know.”

Ani is also looking to revolutionise the way cooking classes are done in Dubai, with the aim of teaching people to understand food rather than copy recipes.

He comments: “In the fu-

ture we’ll give cooking classes but in a professional way. It’s not that you come in to learn a recipe, it’s that you come in to understand a product. If I teach you how to understand a tomato, you can use it in any way, because you’re not following something, you’re being a part of something and that’s the key.”

In addition to the educational element, Ani will run a chef’s table, which opens on an ad-hoc basis with no menu and very limited seating.

He also wants to run a boulangerie within the building, commenting: “There will be elements in the villa that will be broken up into research and development for bakery and pastry."

In addition, the chef will have a greenhouse to grow his own fresh produce, and a test lab in the restaurant where he will trial new recipes and menu concepts.

“It’s not a gimmicky place, I’m researching things, I’m trying to understand more.

I’ve just done the food, but then there’s the culture behind the food and some days I’ll let you see what I’m doing, I’ll allow you to come and taste it.”

Ani left La Serre on 21 April and will embark on a research trip throughout Asia during May before returning to Dubai to continue setting up his new venture.

The research and development hub is scheduled to open before the end of 2016.

What's cooking Dining

Vineet Bhatia to open third Dubai restaurant

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ineet Bhatia revealed to Catering News that he will open a third restaurant in Dubai.

The twice starred Michelin chef, who already operates Ashiana by Vineet at Sheraton Dubai Creek and Indego by Vineet at Grosvenor House, said the third venture will be a move away from fine-dining.

“It will be a new brand and concept altogether. We’d rather do a new concept because we don’t want to be stereotyped as doing only the classics or modern and we also want to do street food style, and casual, so as a chef you wear different hats.

“I wouldn’t want to do a third restaurant that competes with my other two restaurants because that’s pointless. It will have its own USP and will be more casual because Ashiana and Indego are quite formal in some ways. We want to make a larger restaurant but more family oriented, a more casual, relaxed style,” he said.

The location has not been confirmed yet, however Chef Bhatia revealed that the restaurant will be in Downtown Dubai, JBR Walk, or in City Walk 2.

The opening is being earmarked for the middle of 2017, with dis-

cussions having been underway for eight months already.

“There are plans in the pipeline and things in discussion right now but nothing has been signed off. We have been involved in Dubai for a very long time and we understand the market quite well and because of what we’ve done in Dubai we have grown a lot in the Middle East in our portfolio of restaurants.

I think Dubai can still take many more restaurants,” he added.

Vineet Bhatia also has another restaurant coming up in Riyadh in the fourth quarter of the year, located in a residential district with just 80 seats.

In addition, he is eyeing locations in Jeddah, Muscat and Kuwait for new concepts, and is in discussions for more projects in Doha.

“Muscat and Kuwait are quite big markets in the GCC and I just think the kind of cuisine we do is well appreciated. It’s a natural progression to move into places like Kuwait and Oman because all the people from the GCC travel internally very frequently, and they like what we do,” he said.

The Muscat location will be a standalone restaurant, and the brands will be decided once locations are confirmed.

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What's cooking

Picture perfect

Clive Pereira, head chef, West 14th Steakhouse (centre) collects the Gastronomic Superstar award at BNC Publishing’s Leaders in Hospitality Awards, which took place on Tuesday 19 April at St. Regis Dubai. A total of 18 categories were awarded, with full details of the winners on Hotelnewsme.com

In a nutshell: Mahiki Dubai Stanislas de Boissieu, new general manager of Mahiki Dubai says the nightclub’s June refurbishment will showcase it in a “brand new light” What attracted you to your new role as GM of Mahiki Dubai?

It’s a new challenge working for a longestablished brand. The company is great and Mahiki has a fantastic reputation worldwide; there is so much we can do to develop the brand.

What would you like to improve about the venue?

Mahiki is now five years old and we are looking to refurbish in June. It will be a big project that will showcase Mahiki in a brand new light for our customers, bringing them a whole new experience. We 10

Catering NEWS ME April 2016

What is the biggest challenge of your new role?

My biggest challenge is re-building the Mahiki brand in order to make us the top destination in the nightlife industry in Dubai.

want to improve the atmosphere in the club by drawing attention to our theatre and dancers and implementing the “Aloha” spirit. We will also be bringing different DJs in very soon!

Who has been the most inspiring person of your career so far?

The GM of Café de Paris in Monaco.

He is such an incredible and inspiring person, managing 200 employees and working professionally every single day.

What's cooking Dining

New report reveals UAE consumers most likely to visit a mall just to eat

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new ‘Food and Beverage in a Shopping Centre’ report from CBRE has revealed that UAE consumers are the most likely across the EMEA region to visit a shopping centre with the sole purpose of eating and drinking.

The report was launched at the World Retail Congress 2016, which took place from 12 – 14 April at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai.

The results were collated following a survey of 22,000 people in 22 markets, across Europe, South Africa and the UAE. While 31% of people reported that they visit a shopping centre

just to eat and drink, this percentage was significantly higher in the UAE, where more than 50% of consumers said that eating and drinking was their primary reason for visiting a mall.

The report explains that warmer climates in the markets of the UAE and Turkey allow for al fresco dining. However, as the summer heat gets less bearable, shopping centres also offer an air-conditioned environment in which to dine, which echoes the Far East shopping centre dining culture.

Citing the example of Dubai, the report highlights that Dubai Mall has over 150 food and drink

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outlets and Mall of the Emirates has 95 outlets with both open until 1am, which shows why consumers in Dubai might want to visit a shopping centre just to eat and drink.

However, globally, the trend for vising malls just to eat and drink is set to increase substantially over the next five years, with CBRE’s research predicting that this will rise from 30% to 50%.

The increase will be driven by quality of offer, innovation and consumer acceptance of shopping centre F&B offers, the report says.

Even for those that don’t go

Nick Maclean, MD, CBRE Middle East to a mall just to eat, for UAE respondents the availability of F&B influenced the decision of where to shop for 66.1% and the country was also well above the average when asked whether eating and drinking is an important part of the shopping experience, with more than 50% claiming it is.

What's cooking

Openings A brief look at regional F&B openings

Bateel, Avenues Mall, Kuwait Gourmet food business, Bateel International has entered the Kuwait market with a boutique and café. Located in Avenues Mall, the Bateel boutique will feature the company’s full range of gourmet products, such as dates, chocolate, praline, truffles, nuts and dressings. Café Bateel will offer an elevated casual dining experience with Mediterranean cuisine. With

a presence in 14 countries, Bateel has over 40 boutiques and 16 cafés across the globe. For the first time Bateel has partnered with interior design agency, Bishop UK to tailor the look and feel of the outlet for the Kuwait market. The boutique and café combined spans more than 4,500ft2, with the café seating up to 150 guests and featuring a balcony terrace on the first floor.

Mcgettigans, Madinat Jumeirah Irish bar McGettigan’s will open its sixth UAE outlet in Dubai at Souk Madinat Jumeirah this summer. The bar will open in partnership with Utopia, Viva Entertainment at the site currently occupied by Frioul restaurant, which will close on 13 May. Situated underneath Pacha Nightclub, the site has a waterfront terrace with views of Burj Al Arab. McGettigan's will offer its signature live music, sports coverage and pub food. The first McGettigan’s Pub was opened in Ireland in the

1960s on Queen Street in Dublin by company founder, Jim McGettigan. In late 2010, the awardwinning bar entered the United Arab Emirates, opening its first international branch in Dubai at the Bonnington Hotel, JLT.

Ceviche, DIFC, Dubai Peruvian restaurant Ceviche has opened its doors at Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The concept was founded by Lima-born sous chef Percy Cubas and chef Gonzalo Alberto, who heads up the culinary team has also been instrumental to concept development. The pair want to offer customers “the closest culinary experience to authentic Peru12

Catering NEWS ME April 2016

vian flavours” using modern presentation and techniques but without losing the soul of Peruvian food. The menu includes Peruvian staples such as ceviche (spicy marinated raw fish), Ají de Gallina (chicken in a creamy yellow chili sauce) and Anticuchos (marinated and grilled beef hearts). Open for lunch and dinner, Ceviche has a seating capacity of 50.

Yannis Anagnostakis, CEO, RAK Hospitality Holding

RAK Hospitality Holding signs with US restaurant brand for 6 UAE outlets Hakaya Collection, a subsidiary of RAK Hospitality Holding (RAKHH) has signed a franchise development agreement with American grill and sushi bar brand, Kona Grill to roll out six restaurants in the UAE. Kona Grill will join Hakaya’s collection of Ras Al Khaimah restaurants, including Marina Muse Bar and Restaurant, Motor Mouth Food Truck, The Bay Sports Bar, Yansoon and Pesto.

The restaurants are to be developed over a seven-year period.

Commenting on the agreement, Yannis Anagnostakis, chief executive officer of RAKHH, said: “We are excited to partner with Kona Grill because of their unique concept, which we believe will meet the increasing demand for premier casual dining concepts in the UAE. Kona Grill owns and operates 37 restaurants across 19 American states, and Puerto Rico. The menu features contemporary American items, sushi and cocktails.

In the US, Kona Grill restaurants are located in high-activity

areas such as retail centres, shopping malls, urban entertainment districts and lifestyle centres.

Berke Bakay, president and CEO at Kona Grill, said: “We are pleased to partner with Hakaya and RAKHH for the development of six Kona Grill restaurants.

“Their vast experience in hotels and restaurants makes them the right partner to build our brand in the UAE. The signing of this agreement marks another milestone in our international strategy and follows the Mexico development agreement signed earlier this year.”

Established in 2014 by the government of Ras Al Khaimah, RAK Hospitality Holding LLC was formed with a mandate to consolidate and asset manage a portfolio of government owned hotels, hospitality and leisure assets.

RAKHH’s subsidiaries include RAK National Hotels, which owns hotel assets in Ras Al Khaimah including Hilton Resort and Spa and Rixos Bab Al Bahr; RAK Hospitality Logistics, and Hakaya Collection.

What's cooking

New appointments

Rosalind Parsk appointed new head chef at The Ivy Dubai

Chef Rajiv Ranjan joins Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Beach

IIir Caushi returns to Zuma Dubai as GM

Rosalind Parsk has moved from her role as head chef of Jumeirah Restaurant Group’s Pierchic, where she oversaw a team of 28, to become head chef of The Ivy at Jumeirah Emirates Towers. Originally from the UK, chef Parsk trained at Marco Pierre White’s The Belvedere in London and under Gordon Ramsey at the Michelin-starred Menu and The Grillroom in The Connaught Hotel, London. In 2007 Parsk relocated to Dubai as part of the opening team for Rhodes Mezzanine by Gary Rhodes as chef de partie and later held roles at the Capital Club in DIFC and at Cavalli Club.

Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Beach, Dubai has appointed Rajiv Ranjan as its new executive chef. Chef Ranjan first joined Mövenpick Hotels & Resorts in 2010 when he was appointed executive sous-chef at Mövenpick Hotel & Apartments, Bur Dubai. The Indian chef started his career with Oberoi Hotels & Resorts in India in 2001 then travelled to the UK, Australia and South-East Asia to gain experience. He has worked with international hotel operators such as Hilton Worldwide, Jumeirah Group and Taj Hotels & Resorts.

Japanese restaurant concept, Zuma, has appointed IIir Caushi as general manager for its Dubai location. Caushi has been part of the Zuma family for over seven years, having first joined the Dubai restaurant in 2008 as assistant general manager, before transferring to Zuma Abu Dhabi to head up the team as GM in 2013. Caushi began his career at 17 in London where he worked at Quaglino’s in London’s Mayfair. He continued working within the Conran stable, opening Paternoster Chophouse in the city. Caushi’s first UAE venture, and his role before joining Zuma, was the opening of Mourad Mazouz’s Almaz by Momo.

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April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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New places

JB’s Gastropub Amwaj Rotana director of food and beverage, Hossam El Said showcases JBR Walk’s latest addition, JB's Gastropub How would you describe the concept?

It’s something JBR has been missing – a gastropub. It’s not just a pub or a sports bar, but a true gastropub where the food doesn’t take a backseat. When you think JB’s, you think simple food, done well, and fun for sharing. However, the first thing that strikes you when you walk into JB’s is its appearance: an uncovered warehouse with antique travel-themed bric-a-brac dotted around. JB's enjoys an entrance right off the street from The Walk, which is also unique for Dubai.

What are the signature items on the menu?

While the concept of a gastropub is British, we wanted to feature a variety of cuisines on our menu. There are numerous options for a light bite or a full meal. Some of our signature items are the crunchy fried dill pickles with ranch dip, the combo board of cured meats, with cheese and olives, which is perfect with our craft hops and grape. Sausage by the metre can be ordered in a choice of 50cm or one full metre, brisket on a burger, aka “The Bob” is our signature burger topped with shaved brisket and BBQ sauce. We also do ninehour braised beef short rib, with horseradish mash, grilled broccoli and pan jus, and one of our desserts is “The Strawberry Yum”, a posh nosh ice cream Sunday.

What is interesting about the beverage offer?

What’s unique is the extensive selection of grape, all present-

SUMOSAN Sumosan owner, Janina Wolkow, explains why new private members’ club, Bilionaire Mansion at Taj Dubai, is the perfect location for the Japanese restaurant concept How would you describe the concept?

Sumosan is a contemporary Japanese Restaurant that puts a lot of emphasis on the quality of its food. It constantly evolves, adding new twists.

How will Sumosan stand out from other Japanese and sushi restaurants in Dubai?

Sumosan is housed within Billionaire Mansion, a 360-degree venue.

While keeping the original ethos of Sumosan, it also serves amazing Italian cuisine by Billionaire Grill. There are dinner shows, a terrace, and a lounge, offering something for everyone.

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Catering NEWS ME April 2016

Please introduce the culinary team: The head chef at Billionaire Mansion is Batuhan Piatti Zeynioğlu, who is absolutely incredible - a very talented chef. Sun Min Hwang, who has been with the group for more than 15 years, will be based in Dubai and will oversee the restaurant. Bubker Belkhit, executive chef of the Sumosan group will be travelling to Dubai on a regular basis as well.

What is your hero dish on the menu and why?

One of my favourite Sumosan dishes is the salmon rice pizza. I am bit of a Sushi addict and we have been receiving tuna of the most incredible quality. I am also in love with the strozapetti lamb from the Billionaire Grill menu.

New places ed in our full glass cellar. We also offer our house grape by the glass in red and white varieties. For fans of hops, there are 12 taps of the popular pours, including one craft beverage on draft, and a selection of craft bottles.

Who designed the interiors and how do they reflect the concept?

The interiors were designed by LW Design Group LLC, which has established a concept talked about by everyone who visits JB’s. The shell of the outlet is an uncovered warehouse where you see traces of old tiles on a cement floor and oldfashioned light fixtures. They went to great lengths, even in the bathrooms, which feature faux copper cisterns and brass taps. Antiques such as vintage luggage, clocks, books, cash registers and a sign made out of an antique bicycle add to the experience.

How will the venue compete on the competitive Dubai market?

Having enjoyed huge success with our three award-winning restaurants, and taking the feedback of our most loyal guests, we felt the need to create a fourth restaurant. When we researched the concept, we found that JBR was missing a gastropub and considering our existing clientele, we knew it would be a concept they would be excited about.

Will you host any special promotions or events?

Adding value for guests is important, which is why we’ve ensured that our cheese, charcuterie and wine nights also have cold cuts instead of the usual cheese and wine that most places offer. The idea is to go one step further to increase value for guests. Similarly, we introduced our Ladies’ Night on a Wednesday since most places offer it on Mondays or Tuesdays.

Weslodge Saloon Maher Murshed, Icon Legacy Hospitality’s managing partner, introduces Canadian concept, Weslodge Saloon to Dubai’s JW Marriott Marquis

and attitude captures the essence of those individuals who dare to be different.

What are the signature items on the menu?

Signature dishes are the Weslodge chop, the Weslodge burger and of course our southern fried chicken, brined for 24 hours, soaked in Laban then dredged in seasoned flour, and drizzled in our home made Tabasco & honey sauce.

What is interesting about the beverage offer?

A hand-selected team of expert mixologists have been brought in from across the world, all originally Canadian. My favorites have to be the orange spiced Old Fashioned and the barrel aged Negroni, which we actually have on tap.

How would you describe the concept?

It’s creatively cool, elegant and modern; we wanted to create an upscale yet inviting atmosphere. The music, design, food, drink

Who designed the interiors?

The interior was designed by a Canadian company, Navigate Design. We have floor-to-ceiling windows and views of Burj Khalifa and The World islands. We have everything from faux animal skulls to hand crafted portraits to mini lounge designs in every booth opposite our bar.

April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

15

Talent

Consistency is key Rees Whiteley, one of Bistrot Bagatelle Dubai’s talented waiters reveals his most inspirational career mentor, his dream job and why consistency is the most crucial aspect of a restaurant operation

Describe your first ever role in the F&B industry?

My first ever role was five years ago while studying politics at university in London. I was a banquet waiter for an event staffing company called Brightsparks, working at big events over the Christmas party period.

Who has been your biggest career inspiration?

Alexis, the previous manager for Bagatelle who was just 24 and had achieved a lot in a very short space of time, but had an amazing passion for the hospitality business.

He had impeccable focus, was great with guests, but also taught me that to be successful in this industry, consistency is key.

I now view this as the most important component to any successful restaurant.

How do you view the F&B scene in the region?

The F&B scene in the middle east is developing incredibly quickly. When you work in London, you see many great restaurants, but the scene has been around for much longer. Ten years ago in Dubai, there wasn’t much of a market, but now you see Michelin-star worthy concepts, and also crazy fun concepts such as Bistrot Bagatelle, which give you great food and atmosphere. We give you a place where you can start and finish your night, with the end being where you can dance with your waiter to Alicia Key’s “New York” until the lights go up. I’ve never experienced anywhere like this in London.

What is the biggest challenge of your role?

By far my biggest challenge is meeting each and every different guest expectation.

Whether that’s giving you and your fam-

ily a great dinner, or a champagne show of crystal, or whether you simply just want to have fun. I have to adapt myself and read each and every guest to make sure you get that true Bagatelle experience.

What is your favourite aspect of the role?

I’m given the opportunity to create something truly unique in Dubai’s restaurant scene, playing a key part through knowledge and genuine passion. I take a lot of pleasure in seeing guests enjoy every aspect of the restaurant.

the door to when you finish your meal, every little bit means a lot to them. If you’ve visited the restaurant a few times, the team will know your name, which dishes you enjoy the most, and what to recommend to you to keep things fresh and exciting. This is something I appreciate over everything, since feeling comfortable and at home in a London restaurant isn’t easily achieved. The second company is Caprice Holdings, who created institutions such as The Ivy. For me, they are the godfathers of London hospitality.

If you could work in any restaurant in the world which would it be?

There are two groups I would love to work for. The first would be Corbyn & King, the London restaurateurs behind The Wolseley. Not only do they have exceptional contemporary European eateries, but they focus heavily on the overall experience. From when you walk through

What tip would you share with new staff starting out in the F&B industry in the Middle East?

Go into your new role with passion, and the desire to grow. With this growth comes long hours, some unpleasant experiences, and a few knock-backs along the way. But overall, if you wish to succeed in this industry, Dubai is the place where anything is possible.

opinion

Embarking on a taste bud journey Nicholas Couvaras, managing director of F&B consultancy, Kroma, believes that diners today can travel the world without even having to leave Dubai

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s a guest of a restaurant with a specific cuisine-related theme, we now expect to be lifted away to a far off place through interior design that reflects the culture, authentic staff with local character and food served just as it would be in its country of origin. Eating out in Dubai is a way of escaping the city and transporting yourself to another place. Whether you’re looking for a quick Parisian lunch or an evening in a South American city, Dubai has a dining destination to suit all tastes. With the trend towards more authentic design and intriguing menus, there are hundreds of F&B outlets in the city, such as Eat Greek and Tribes, that are true to the cuisine they offer, helping diners feel the experience of that country when they visit.

And it’s not only the menu that counts.

Living in a city bursting with food and beverage concepts, as residents we are now getting a little picky and want more for our money. No longer do we accept a great tasting dish as the standard for a good evening out. We now expect more of an experience, that not only entails outstanding food, but also great service, unique interior design and an authentic identity, all perfectly combined to create the ultimate guest experience. Concept creation and branding is now becoming so precise and authentic to the country of food origin, that you can feel like you are already there. La Petite Maison is a perfect example of how all of the key elements combine to create a synchronised guest experience.

More authentic experiences – far removed from the international franchise idea we are used to seeing here – are also being seen in fine-dining restaurants, such as the newly opened Siraj in Souk Al Bahar. Along with Siraj, Logma in Box Park also demonstrates an increase in the amount of homegrown Emirati concepts cropping up, showing consumer demand for a truly authentic taste of the UAE. And as the expectations of residents and tourists increase, we are seeing more European and Western styles of entertaining opening up, with places like Ripe Market, Jumeirah Fishing Harbour and The Beach at JBR creating a varied “outdoor living” offer. New neighbourhoods and their restaurant concepts are now offering guests an escape: walking down JBR or through Citywalk, you do feel like you have left Dubai.

We crave character and personality in our gastronomic trips and urge restaurants to stand out from the crowd and offer us something totally different. As more F&B concepts and cuisines ‘trend’ around the world, such as the latest to hit Dubai – Latin American food, and in particular Peruvian in the likes of Coya – we can expect more interesting, authentic and culturally accurate places to open their doors in Dubai.

As the saying goes: “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things”. With that in mind, it’s now time to leave your passport at home and take a trip somewhere around the world without even having to exit the UAE.

About the author Nicholas Couvaras is the managing director of Kroma, a dedicated F&B advisory consultancy, which offers the entire ‘kitchen sink’ of services, from initial concept development to optimising existing portfolios and localising international concepts to the Middle East. www.kroma-me.com April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Cover Story

Feeding the

future A lack of education on nutrition is one of the key factors contributing to the Middle East’s childhood obesity epidemic. Catering News explores the role chefs play in tackling the issue

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Cover Story The experts

Emiliano Bernasconi, group director of culinary, JAS Hospitality Group

Chefs believe that food still has to be fun for kids

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raditionally a problem associated with the Western world, in particular the US, childhood obesity has in recent years reached epidemic proportions in the Middle East. And given the combination of high incomes, an abundance of fast food restaurants, a lack of education on nutrition, and physical inactivity due to the extreme climate of the region, this isn’t surprising.

A population-based study published in February 2016 titled ‘Obesity Science & Practice’ by John Wiley & Sons Ltd, World Obesity and The Obesity Society, revealed an alarming rise in the rate of childhood obesity in the UAE. The study, investigating the prevalence of obesity in 44,942 students attending governmental schools in Ras Al-Khaimah, revealed that obesity increased in a linear fashion from ages three to 12 years, and that 25% of children aged 11 – 14 in the UAE are either obese or extremely obese.

Meanwhile, from ages 15 to 18, 10% of boys and 3% of girls are extremely obese.

The study concluded: “Improved public awareness and pre-emptive measures are required to tackle this emerging problem in the country”.

According to chef Emiliano Bernasconi,

group director of culinary, JAS Hospitality Group, which is behind homegrown concepts, Qbara Restaurant Lounge & Bar, and Fümé at Pier 7 and Manzil Downtown, “The UAE government is very active on this topic”.

In recent years, the UAE government has ramped up its efforts to improve public awareness of children’s nutrition and in 2009, the Ministry of Health along with other government agencies formed the National Nutrition Committee to draft a strategy for reducing obesity and related illnesses. And at end of last year, Abu Dhabi Quality and Conformity Council (QCC) issued the second edition of Abu Dhabi’s manual for school canteens, which outlines requirements to be met, along with health guidelines for food sale, cooking, handling, distribution and disposal.

However, Bernasconi still feels there is more to be done to actually educate children directly on nutrition. “Dedicating one hour a week during school time to teach the basics of nutrition and the importance of a healthy life, starting with what we eat, could be helpful,” he says. Rob Paterson CEO, Aqualine Middle East, the brand owner of The Rhodes Programme, believes that chefs have a responsibility to contrib-

Rosalind Parsk, head chef, The Ivy, Dubai

Ryan Waddell, head chef at Reform Social & Grill, Dubai

Mike Walden, commercial director, 4 Corners

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Cover Story Gary Rhodes (right) and Wayne Tapsfield are behind the Rhodes Programme for schools

ute to children’s education on nutrition.

“Well trained chefs would endeavor to do this as standard,” he says.

Chefs can do a lot to influence positive change, as exemplified by Jamie Oliver, whose campaigns in the UK have made a huge impact on improving school meals.

He managed to capture the attention of Prime Minister Tony Blair following the airing of the series ‘Jamie Oliver’s School Dinners’ in 2005, which highlighted the dangerous amount of processed junk food used in school dinners. The UK government as a result, took steps to improve the situation, with certain junk foods banned or limited in school dinners.

Similarly, in the UAE, Gary Rhodes has been involved in raising awareness of healthy eating in schools, and in 2014, he introduced the Festival of Rhodes Programme, during which he taught children at Foremarke school in Dubai about ingredients and nutrition. The Rhodes Programme has been running for two years now, with the aim of providing high quality food for children in schools in Dubai, 20

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“If all children know is fatty food and fizzy drinks, chocolate and sweets, that really doesn’t give them the best start in life. It’s about educating children on tastes, ingredients and health awareness from a young age to make a change” Rosalind Parsk and according to Paterson, the feedback from students, teachers and parents has been “fantastic”.

“We have been successful in ensuring that everything we provide is freshly prepared with no additives, preservatives or artificial chemicals,” he says, explaining

that the programme has offered children a culinary education by introducing them to new flavours, and has encouraged catering companies to change the way they think about what should be provided during school dinners.

However, according to Paterson, a barrier to healthier children’s menus, is misguided perceptions of what children like to eat. The Rhodes Programme is therefore conducting a survey among children, asking them what their favourite and least favourite items on the menu are.

“Of course we cannot please all palates, however we are striving to offer the highest quality with variation in our menu, which runs on a 20-day cycle. When we have collated our data, we will find the least popular four dishes and modify these or create new menu items for children to enjoy,” explains Paterson.

The Rhodes Programme has partnered with 4 Corners, a one-stop-shop supplier for the foodservice industry to ensure ingredients are of the highest standard. Mike Walden, commercial director of 4 Corners comments: “We are increasingly aware of the requirement for better quality products for children’s food. It’s refreshing with the Rhodes Programme that there is so much emphasis on this, however, when you see what is on offer elsewhere, we still have a long way to go in the UAE market.”

Many chefs in the region are now coming round to the idea that they should be playing a role in educating children about healthy eating. Izu Ani, for example, who left his position as head chef of Emaar Hospitality’s La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie in April, is looking to get behind the cause by setting up his own research and development hub in Dubai [full story on p8], where he will educate children on ingredients and nutrition.

“I’m not saying I’m a fan of Jamie Oliver, but he’s done so much to raise awareness about how to eat properly for schools,” says Ani. “Who’s thinking about getting young school kids to understand that everything that is grown comes from the ground, from the soil, not just from a supermarket? To understand we can eat something tasty without doing it processed — that’s what I want to do.”

Rosalind Parsk, the new head chef at The Ivy, Jumeirah Emirates Towers agrees,

Cover Story adding: “If all children know is fatty food and fizzy drinks, chocolate and sweets, that really doesn’t give them the best start in life. It’s about educating children on tastes, ingredients and health awareness from a young age to make a change.”

The Rhodes Programme believes that offering children smaller versions of adult dishes is one way to get them to understand new flavours and tasty alternatives to children’s favourites. Dishes such as cauliflower soup, and a full traditional British Sunday roast dinner followed by apple crumble are on the menu, and Paterson believes that the foodservice industry should be doing the same rather than offering up the usual sugar- and salt-laden options, such as chicken nuggets and fish fingers.

“In our eyes, [adult meals] are suitable for adults and children and we feel that restaurants should offer smaller portion sizes of their menus for children,” says Paterson.

Ryan Waddell, head chef of Reform Social & Grill, Dubai, which relaunched its children’s menu in January, says that all of

Adding hidden vegetables into pasta sauce is one way in which Ryan Waddell of Reform Social & Grill is improving the nutrition of kid’s meals

Cover Story

Kids brunch at Fumé the children’s options at the restaurant are made to the same standards as the adult menu items.

“Our meals are prepared from the same high quality ingredients and produced inhouse. For example, the children’s burger is prepared using the same beef and to the same recipe as our adult’s Angus burger.”

The relaunch focused on reducing the number of fried options, and increasing the fruit and vegetables on the menu, including the hidden varieties.

“Chicken nuggets were removed and replaced with a simple grilled chicken breast with steamed new potatoes and green beans, and the option of a light chicken wrap, and an avocado salad. Alongside our spaghetti Bolognese, we are offering a tomato pasta with baby spinach, and within the recipe we have packed additional vegetables to boost the vitamin count in the sauce, without any visible vegetables.”

Parsk says the same thing is happening in her restaurant. “There are more options instead of fried foods on the menu, so instead of fried fish there’s a steamed fish with vegetables option,” she says.

And in response to recent increased public awareness of the negative impact of sugar on health, Waddell and Parsk say that replacing refined white sugar with natural sweeteners has also helped to create a 22

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“People want their children to eat healthier, although this can be difficult, and the most important thing is that they actually eat a proper meal. Parents see dining out with their children as a treat so they want the child to enjoy their meal” Ryan Waddell healthier menu overall.

Despite these efforts, children are often picky eaters, and the truth is that for parents, the priority is sometimes simply to get their child to eat, which could explain why at Reform, even though the grilled chicken option is available, 70% of the orders are requested with French fries instead of new potatoes.

“People want their children to eat healthier, although this can be difficult, and the most important thing is that they actually eat a proper meal. Parents see dining out with their children as a treat so they

want the child to enjoy their meal,” says Waddell.

Parsk agrees that “children do love The Ivy classics such as the burger and chips or fish fingers and chips”.

To offer healthy options while maintaining the fun element, Fümé at Pier 7 has introduced a children’s brunch, incorporating items from the adult’s menu such as “Punky carrots”, in addition to kid’s favourites like fried chicken.

“We saw the need for the parents to enjoy a nice meal over the weekend while their kids play and eat the food they love, so what better way to do this than by creating a brunch for kids?” comments chef Bernasconi.

“Parents are always interested in offering their children healthy and nutritious options, but at the end of the day, food needs to be fun for kids,” he adds.

Whether children choose to go with the chicken nuggets or the grilled fish and vegetables, for chefs it’s important to offer the option. As children start to sample dishes that taste great without the excess sugar and salt, perhaps they will come to make healthier choices naturally, and in doing so, will learn about the nutritional importance of good food.

As Waddell points out: “The simple addition of choice is a great factor”.

The business

The restaurant & lounge will seat 185

The ess Busin

Bucking the trend One of a string of Peruvian restaurants to open in Dubai International Financial Centre this year, Totora Cebicheria Peruana promises to compete with a truly authentic taste of Peru.

Crystal Chesters reports 24

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ith European, Asian and African flavours weaved together and underpinned by indigenous traditions, it’s no wonder Peruvian food has exploded in Dubai, which itself is a melting pot of cultures.

While the trend first spread throughout the US and London, it took a little longer to reach the shores of the Gulf. However, today there are some very strong players on the market, including The Act at Shangri-La Dubai, Coya at Four Seasons Dubai at Jumeirah Beach restaurant village, and Taj Dubai’s Tesoro, among others.

And now the trend is expanding beyond five-star hotels, establishing itself in independent restaurants, most notably in Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), which this year has become a hotbed for Peruvian cuisine. Three have opened in 2016 alone — Ceviche, Mayta by Jaime Pesaque, and the latest addition, Totora Cebicheria Peruana, named after the indigenous Peruvian plant.

Behind Totora is Rania Al Khalifa, a member of the Bahraini royal family and Lebanese investor Ali Sidani, who last year opened casual dining outlet Pollo Pollo in the Umm Suqeim area, marking Dubai’s first Peruvian pollería (chicken rotisserie). However, for Al Khalifa, Totora is her debut F&B investment, so she felt the need to work with a strong partner who could offer the best know-how from an operational perspective, which is why Ròya International was brought on board.

“I think it goes without saying that Ròya International has a broad experience in Dubai and the international hospitality sector, so we’re very lucky and privileged to have them as our partner,” she says.

And while the timing of the opening makes it seem like the investors are jumping on an already-established trend, they had in fact been mulling the idea of bringing a Peruvian concept to Dubai before it became so popular. “We started thinking of this two years ago so it’s been a bit of a journey, but now there are so many Peruvian concepts coming in,” says Khalifa.

Sidani, a software engineer by profession, comments: “Food was

always my passion and when I married my Peruvian wife I started learning more about the cuisine and culture and thought this would be very interesting to bring to the UAE.” Meanwhile, Al Khalifa’s F&B experience comes from her time working on New York’s Wall Street. As a research analyst at Credit Suisse, she dealt with food businesses and later moved over to the asset management side as an analyst covering food investment. When the global financial downturn hit, she decided to return to the Middle East where she met with Sidani and realised they had the same aspiration – to create a truly authentic Peruvian concept for Dubai. And despite the competition today, Al Khalifa is confident there is still space on the market for such a diverse cuisine.

“We’re really passionate about Peruvian cuisine and we think it’s relatively unexplored for the breadth of its offer.

Everyone knows Thai, everyone knows Vietnamese but Peruvian has got so much more in terms of its cuisine than some of the others, and people don’t really know about it,” she says.

Ahmed Ramdan, founder and CEO of Ròya International agrees, but admits the competitiveness of the Dubai market does make Totora a bold venture.

“It’s a challenge but I think we’re willing to go through it,” he says. “Generally, Dubai is becoming a more mature market for restaurants. Before it was New York and London, but Dubai has joined that market. Once the city matures in hospitality then it’s time for you to bring all types of restaurants and there’s a market for everyone. Is it sustainable? That depends: I guess if it’s a very trendy restaurant, the life-expectancy is much shorter.”

But Totora isn’t looking to be the latest flash-in-the-pan hotspot. An all-Peruvian back-of-house team is on board, headed up by chef Alex Barrera, who first met Sidani in Peru while working for Lima restaurant chain, La Bomboniere, and last year opened Sidani’s Pollo Pollo in Dubai.

Likewise, ingredients are to be sourced directly from Peru, which the team believes is essential for creating authenticity.

Sidani explains: “We knew this wave of Peruvian was coming but what differentiates us is that many of our core ingredients are brought straight from Peru and we utilise these as our base items. That makes us way more authentic that what exists here.”

Al Khalifa chimes in: “Not only is our executive chef Peruvian, but he’s complemented by a whole back-of-house and kitchen team that are Peruvian so I think as our operations director would say: ‘that’s 10 more than the next guy!’

“Some of the chefs have worked on the chifa type of cuisine, which is the Chinese-influenced Peruvian food, whereas others are experts in the cold station, making tiraditos and ceviche – they all have a value-add in terms of where they’ve worked and what segment of cuisine they bring,” says Al Khalifa.

Above: Scallop Tiradito Left: Lima Colada cocktail

“We knew this wave of Peruvian was coming but what differentiates us is that many of our core ingredients are brought straight from Peru and we utilise these as our base items. That makes us way more authentic than what exists here” Ali Sidani April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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The business Having spent time in Peru, Sidani and Al Khalifa want to showcase the heritage, depth and complexity of the cuisine. Al Khalifa asserts that it is more accessible that people think and doesn’t have to be toned down or altered for the Middle East.

“When you start to taste it you realise the fried rice resembles Chinese, the raw fish resembles sashimi from Japanese cuisine, and the arroz marisco is like paella, so it’s far more approachable than most people realise. Most people haven’t even tried it – they only know ceviche and quinoa but there’s so much more we’re excited to teach and showcase to the Dubai community,” she says.

Ramdan agrees that so far, the Dubai market has mostly sampled a fusion take on Peruvian cuisine in the existing outlets, and Totora will address this gap in the market.

“There are similar restaurants in Dubai but usually only a small part of them is really Peruvian, and they are really more European or fusion. Ali and Rania are trying to make Totora very authentic so that’s what will differentiate it,” he explains.

The 6,000ft2 venue is open seven days a week, serving food between noon and midnight, Saturday through Wednesday and until 1am on weekends. It will seat 88 people in the ground floor restaurant area, including four seats around a cevicheria

“Not only is our executive chef Peruvian, but he’s complemented by a whole back-of-house and kitchen team that are Peruvian so I think as our operations director would say: ‘that’s 10 more than the next guy!’”

Rania Al Khalifa The focal point of the entrance is a rope bridge, reminiscent of the last remaining Incan rope bridge in Peru

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The Business bar, while downstairs in the lounge area, there are 96 seats. Ramdan explains that the decision to make the space a restaurant-meets-bar-and-lounge, a set-up being seen in many new Dubai F&B outlets, was commercially-driven.

“We would like to capture pre-dinner and post-dinner customers rather than simply having dinner from 9-11.30pm. Primarily it was a commercial decision, but secondly it was to complement the environment and allow for diverse audiences to enjoy it.”

Designed by Lebanese architect, Fadi Sarieddine, the space features two floors, and the focal point of the entrance is a rope bridge, reminiscent of the last remaining Incan rope bridge in Peru. The concept evokes a physical journey through the landscape of Peru with a caballito de totora — a traditional Peruvian fishing vessel — the statement piece.

Located opposite Boca, in the space that used to house the Andrew Martin store, the team admits that the conversion of the shop space into a restaurant hasn’t

come without its challenges. Ramdan is used to these of course, having opened five concepts already in DIFC, however for Al Khalifa and Sidani, the frustrations are less familiar.

“Construction is always a challenge: planning permits and trying to get contractors to meet your deadlines, and the element of surprise when the space you lease isn’t built to be a restaurant. Eventually once we open, licenses will be the last hurdle,” explains Ramdan.

With an opening date first agreed for March and then pushed to the end of May,

the team are anxious to get started, and Khalifa says that within 12 months’ time she would like to see the restaurant matching — and hopefully exceeding — expectations.

“We are really very passionate and very driven in what we seek to achieve and we really want to create the best in terms of experience, the quality of food, and everything from the staff interaction to the music, atmosphere and value,” Al Khalifa comments.

“We want the full package and we hope to achieve that and more, and maybe win a couple of awards on the way.”

What's cooking

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The business

t s i l y t s d foo The secrets of a Catering News goes behind the scenes with Food Art Concept’s Caroline Ismail to find out what it takes to create a picture perfect dish

very marketer working in the hospitality industry knows the importance of good imagery today, as online booking platforms and review sites become the number one source of information for potential customers. And while restaurants often do well to showcase their interiors, some could do better to make their food offer look as good as it tastes, particularly with the rise of delivery sites such as Deliveroo, which use just one image of a menu item to encapsulate an entire restaurant, meaning that if the potential customer doesn’t like the look of that dish, they will scroll on to a competitor. Caroline Ismail, food stylist and founder of Food Art Concept, which operates in Dubai and Beirut, understands the importance of imagery well, having started her career in the hotel industry.

“It’s all about social media; every business out there that wants to survive has a Facebook and Instagram page. We create food moments for the pleasure of your eyes because you eat with your eyes first.

As technology advances, the more timerestricted the consumer is. If your food is more or less as good as your neighbour, what will be the differentiating factor? The

way you present your website, the way you keep entertaining your clients. When we do this amazing food photography, every picture can be used as a standalone tactical promotion,” she asserts.

Half Romanian, half Lebanese, Ismail studied hotel marketing in La Rochelle, France, before moving to Dubai to take on the role of PR coordinator at Sheraton Dubai Creek. She became intrigued by the hotel’s monthly food photoshoots, but it wasn’t the photography itself that captured her imagination: it was the behindthe-scenes work that went on prior to and during the photoshoots. “I always looked forward to those shoots; there was a lot of creativity involved so you’d see it and think ‘this is me – I contributed to this!”

Having parents that were interested in food and table set-up is a factor Ismail attributes to her interest in food styling. “We had flowers on the table, the napkins and table cloths would be looked at in detail…

I was raised with this mentality of making the table look ‘wow’ before we sat down,” she says.

Ismail set up Food Art Concept in January 2015. Wearing her ‘Food Art Concept

by Caro’ apron during our interview in the BNC Publishing office, she holds six cherry tomatoes on a spatula, blowtorching them

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The business

Caroline Ismail giving a demonstration at the BNC offices. to create a barbequed effect. Next to her is a toolbox with several weird and wonderful objects, including micro fine tweezers, pins, paint brushes and various sprays, which she refers to as her ‘secret ingredients’. Ismail explains that food photography is actually much more intricate than the naked eye gives it credit for, with salad leaves held together by pins, fruit and vegetables sprayed with special ingredients to create a dewy effect, and cotton wool used to prop elements of a dish into the right position.

And aside from the physical challenges of setting up a shoot, there is the education of every party involved on the importance of food styling. Even if one person in a business understands the value of having a food stylist on board to ensure everything on a plate is picture-perfect, Ismail admits there is usually someone that just doesn’t get it — and it can be particularly tough to get the chef on board.

“Sometimes chefs feel you are stepping on their toes but then you have some of them who are more open. You have to educate them and tell them you’re not trying to take credit for their job, that you’re here to help them enhance their work,” she says.

A lot of preparation is required prior to the shoot and Ismail normally meets with the agency, the client and the chef first to 30

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ensure everyone is on the same page. The chef then sends over the components of the dish, so that Ismail can go out and buy the freshest ingredients with the best colour, shape and size for the shoot. However, this is another hurdle to explain to some chefs, who prefer to use their own selection of ingredients.

“They’ll often come back and say they’ll buy it for me, but the point is that I know which ones will look good in a picture and which will be bulky,” she explains.

The plating of the dish is also required, which can often be a challenge for takeaway restaurants that don’t necessarily have a set plating. In these instances, Ismail asks the chef to come up with a plating, or she offers to do it herself. Either way, plating must be decided in advance of the shoot as there is never time for it on the day.

She also advises clients not to overpromise in their photographs. “In the picture it should be exactly what [the guest] gets in terms of quantities and items,” she warns. While some clients aren’t sure what items to have shot, Ismail recommends the best- and worst-sellers, and to avoid anything obvious, such as lentil soup, which nearly always looks the same.

Surprisingly, burgers and sandwiches are

the most complex dishes to get right, with one to two hours of prep needed prior to the shoot.

“It’s about complexity and layers.

You can’t just put a skoosh of mayonnaise on it and shoot. You have to dehydrate the bun to make it waterproof.

Sometimes you’ll have a batch of 30 and you’ll have to choose the best one.”

The bun is dehydrated using a car spray before the edges are cleaned up. The burger patty is then moulded into the perfect circular shape, using meat that is undercooked and then painted with a glaze to get it to the right shade.

“If it’s too dark you have to throw it out and start again so that’s why I always ask the chef not to overcook it,” she says.

Once the patty is in place, the tomatoes come next, followed by the cheese, which is melted on the side and then inserted into the bun right before the shoot. The sauces are placed on right at the end and instead of using real sauce, Ismail uses a secret ingredient mixed with mayonnaise or ketchup to make it stick there. She even uses white glue sometimes to create the semblance of mayonnaise. When assembling the burger, the salad is pinned together and the patty is pushed in from the back using sponges or pieces of cotton.

The Business Carolines top tips for improving your food photography

Giving cherry tomatoes a new look

Lighting Use daylight as much as you can. If you’re using a professional camera and don’t have enough flash, use your phone light.

Colours and decoration Food styling and food photography is all about mixing and matching colours.

Avoid busy napkins or materials that are highly reflective and don’t forget that the dish also has its own colours.

Dishes If sauce is too prominent, filter it before shooting. If the dish is too busy, try to focus on the dish itself and avoid too many props and decorations Research Keep searching, reading and being

Food Styled by Caroline Ismail Photographed by Neil Walton All rights reserved to http://soulfull.ae/

inspired, but don’t copy from food blogs, website or Instagram foodie accounts. Be creative!

Notebook Keep a notebook handy and every time you notice an interesting food item, write down the shop name and the price – you may need it in future.

For professional food styling, contact: caro@foodartconcept.com www.foodartconcept.com Understanding the angles and lighting is also very important for Ismail. For example, she will arrange lemons and other reflective objects such as cutlery to ensure they are furthest from the flash, and she works on her knees at the same level as the dish to give a 3D effect, since the camera shoots at a 45-degree angle. “Daylight doesn’t work because you can only shoot for two or three hours per day and you don’t have that amount of time. I don’t

get involved in the photography though, I concentrate on what I’m best at.”

Still learning on the job every day, Ismail says that food styling is all about practice, and often she has to start over if she can’t get it right. She often refers back to the books that first taught her the art of her trade, written by Delores Cluster and Denise Vivado, the women she refers to as “the Gods of food styling”. And to further her education and consolidate her

experience, Ismail last year travelled to New York City to be certified at the International Culinary Centre of New York as a food stylist.

“The more you practice and try, the better. If you try and it doesn’t work you put it to the side and start again and that’s the process that teaches you how to improve yourself,” she says. foodartconcept.com April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Out to lunch

Out to h Lunc

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Phil Crozier, director of wine for Gaucho Restaurants discusses his mission to open Dubai up to an exciting new world of Argentinian vintages, and the unique challenges he faces along the way

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What's cooking

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s the fifth largest wine producer in the world, yielding more than Chile, Argentina, and New Zealand put together, it’s surprising that Argentine grape is so under-represented on the global marketplace. According to Phil Crozier, director of wine for Argentinian steakhouse brand, Gaucho Restaurants, Argentine varieties make up just 2% of the UK market, one of the most competitive beverage markets in the world.

And in Dubai, a very young market for grape, Argentine products have only been around for a few years and face a number of challenges due to the extremely limited beverage supply chain in the emirate, as well as a lack of education on the product. When Gaucho Dubai first opened in October 2011, there was “virtually nothing”, according to Crozier, who looks after a portfolio of 14 Gaucho venues in London and the Hong Kong and Dubai locations. Yet today he believes “there is quite a good showing” of Argentine beverages and he has made it his mission to help open the market up even further, both in Dubai and the UK. Crozier even complained to the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) – the international body for educating sommeliers – that the level three section on Argentina was “a joke”, and offered to re-write it.

Having penned 17 pages on Argentine grape, WSET came back to him and said Argentina couldn’t possibly have 17 pages dedicated to it – because Bordeaux only had 16. “[WSET] is not currently in touch with what’s going on in the beverage world, which changes so quickly,” says Crozier. “The point is we need to start thinking differently about the world of wine because at the moment, we’re educated about Bordeaux, Burgundy, Italy and Spain and then there’s everything else. The world of wine is very different to that, and we need to reflect it.”

And it’s not just the country of Argentina that Crozier wants to promote, but the sub-regions too.

“In the not-too-distant future I want people to come into the restaurant and say ‘I like my Malbec from the Uco Valley; I like my Malbec from Lujan de Cuyo; I like my Malbec from Patagonia’. That’s not going to happen until we start selling the products on that basis – which we do – but it will take time for people to understand,” he says.

But getting people to understand requires education,

and with Argentine beverages so under-represented everywhere, including Dubai, consumer knowledge is a barrier to its growth, and to further demand.

Crozier does his share, visiting Dubai each year to update the Gaucho beverage list, carry out tasting sessions with customers, and generally act as an ambassador for Argentine beverages in Dubai. He does the same in London, working the floor four nights a week at different Gaucho restaurants as a sommelier, and enjoying the unique position of being at the forefront of the entire process, from commissioning, to importing, and then the final sale to the customer.

“It gives you a very unique insight into what sells, what doesn’t sell, what people like, and what they don’t like, and most of that is education,” he says.

And while the London restaurants have roughly 200 varieties each, Dubai has only 120, which is down to the challenges presented by having just two suppliers – Maritime and Mercantile International (MMI) and African & Eastern. This means that far fewer options are available on the market, and up until recently, Gaucho had relied mainly on special imports.

“I’d like to see an increase in the diversity of wines.

Right now we have a number of special imports, but with importers now bringing in new wineries from Argentina, it gives us a little bit more flexibility because it means we’re not having to rely so much on special imports, which logistically is really difficult and puts a strain on the resources of the importers,” he says.

Crozier currently works with 65 wineries and produces beverages with every one of them, including those specially commissioned for Gaucho, such as Susana Balbo blends. “I’ll go to Susana Balbo and she’ll line up a range of single vineyard wines of different grape varieties before she does her blends and I’ll say, ‘ok, I like that one – let’s make 250 cases of it’. It will be a Susana Balbo wine but it will be our own brand developed with her,” he explains.

Revealing he’d like to do more commissioning, Crozier says that more restaurants in Dubai have to buy from Argentina in the first instance. “It lessens the exposure of the two importers, which is a very unique challenge. If I were asking them to do 200 wines just for Gaucho, imagine what their stockholding would have to be like!” he says, explaining that in the UK it’s different because while you may have 200 wineries with 200 importers, they all have agencies, which makes it easier.

“Some beverages are deep, dark, rich and voluptuous.

Others have tonnes of energy; you have to think about it; they challenge you; they are very high in acidity; they’re very fresh and have a lot of youth and vibrancy. To me, this is where the business is going”

April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Out to lunch

Gaucho's 6.5-hectare vineyard in Argentina

Nevertheless, sourcing a portfolio of all-Argentine bottles has its challenges, even in London.

“If you want to do all Argentine, you have to go as close to the source as possible, which means going to the agency, which is normally a wholesaler. If nobody else can do Susana Balbo products, for example, you have to buy from there, so that means I have 25 suppliers. Logistically, when you’ve got 16 restaurants, that’s not easy!”

Crozier regularly visits Argentina to taste the Gaucho produce, staying in a house near the company’s 6.5-hectare vineyard, which was planted in 1929. An agronomist looks after the vineyard and Crozier tastes the beverage after it has been in oak for a year and decides whether it’s going to be made into a barrel selection. If so, it gets kept in the bottle for an extra year, and while the yield is low, the quality is high. There is one wine maker employed full time and Crozier occasionally brings another maker into the vineyard to create a different product, explaining that the people are just as important as the terroir.

“Different wine makers make different wines and you can see the difference in the human element. I want to make this much more of a focus because Argentina is a nation of immigrants – it has Spanish, French and Italian influence,” he says.

Plans for Gaucho Dubai mainly revolve around people, as Crozier looks to bring in the latest creations from the new kids on the block,

Gaucho Dubai was recently refurbished

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Catering NEWS ME April 2016

Gaucho Dubai terrace in particular the Michelini brothers, four siblings producing in Gualtallary, a sub-region of the Uco Valley where the soil has high levels of calcium, resulting in a ‘boney’ quality to the product.

Referring to the brothers, Crozier says: “They’re very much the young, cool, rock and roll of wine makers and are doing things very differently. They have a clear vision, are very esoteric and are breaking the mould with new grape varieties. Their wines are electric; they are just full of energy,” says Crozier, who believes that varieties such as these are the future for the industry.

“Some beverages are deep, dark, rich and voluptuous. Others have tonnes of energy; you have to think about it; they challenge you; they are very high in acidity; they’re very fresh, and have a lot of youth and vibrancy. To me, this is where the business is going,” he says.

And there is a lot more potential for Argentina in the Dubai market, according to Crozier, who believes Gaucho needs to be leading the revolution by introducing new varieties and “shouting about them from the rooftops”. That said, he also wants to see other restaurants in the emirate doing their bit – and he believes this is starting to happen.

“I think a lot of young sommeliers are seeing the world in a much more expansive way – that it’s not just Burgundy and Bordeaux.

They are embracing new places, putting some diversity on their lists, and hopefully they’ll have space for Argentina and some new products from there. That’s what I’d like to see,” he concludes.

The big e chees

NATHAN OUTLAW British Michelin-starred chef, Nathan Outlaw is getting ready to introduce a more accessible F&B offer to the luxurious Burj Al Arab with his signature fine-dining, sustainable seafood

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The Big Cheese

D

ubai has been on Nathan Outlaw’s radar since Gordon Ramsay first opened Verre at Hilton Dubai Creek in 2001, however he had never been to the emirate before being offered the opportunity to open a restaurant at the iconic Burj Al Arab Jumeirah in the space occupied by seafood venue, Al Mahara. He had never even planned to do a restaurant abroad, explaining that his career has evolved “organically”. However, when he received a phone call from the recently-appointed general manager, Anthony McHale, who had eaten at one of Outlaw’s Cornwall venues, he jumped at the chance.

“He gave me a call and I thought someone was winding me up,” Outlaw tells Catering News. “Obviously I knew about Burj Al Arab, and when he invited me over I fell in love with the place.”

Outlaw began his career working with the late Peter Kromberg at InterContinental Hyde Park in London, and later held positions alongside Gary Rhodes and Eric Chavot. However, it wasn’t until he joined Rick Stein in the seaside town of Cornwall in the south-west of England in 1998, that his passion for seafood was sparked.

In May 2003, Outlaw opened his first restaurant, The Black Pig, and was awarded his first Michelin star a year later at the age of 25. Today, the chef has four restaurants in the UK: Nathan Outlaw and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in Port Isaac, Cornwall, Outlaw’s at the Capital Hotel in London, and The Mariner’s Rock Public House in Rock, Cornwall.

With the Dubai restaurant having been in the works for around a year now, it’s been a tough job for Outlaw to keep quiet on his plans, he admits, particularly at Taste of Dubai earlier this year where he got the chance to meet his competitors-to-be. “The Taste festival helped because I got to meet a lot of people, albeit they didn’t know what I was up to!” he says. And while he has only been in Dubai a handful of times, Outlaw is impressed with the restaurant scene. “I’ve now been to Dubai three times and have eaten out at a lot of the restaurants. I think it’s become much better: it’s so vibrant and it will continue to get better and better, so it makes complete sense to do something here.”

Having started his career in a hotel, and currently operating a restaurant within the Capital Hotel in London, Outlaw has no qualms about opening his first Dubai venture within a hotel, and is in fact positive about this. “I find hotels a much more supportive environment,” he says.

“You have your ups and downs whether you’re a standalone or whether you’re in a hotel. The relationship you have with a hotel really works as long as you pick the right ones, and for me it makes big sense to be associated with a hotel like [Burj Al Arab].”

The chef is well-known for his British seafood, high quality ingredients, classic, yet accessible fine-dining

style, and a focus on sustainability, which is something he is very keen to continue for the Dubai chapter of his story. So while he will take inspiration from signature dishes on the UK menus, Outlaw is going to incorporate local ingredients as much as possible.

One of his “old faithful” signature dishes, which has been in his repertoire since the opening of The Black Pig, is the lobster risotto, for which he has already sourced local produce. “I learned about a local lobster that yields quite a lot of meat so we’re going to see if we can do something with that. That’s why I’m trying to use the fundamentals of my cooking, but incorporating as much local stuff as I can,” he says. “I’m searching out a lot of the local seafood to see what it’s about and finding out what I can do; how I incorporate it into my food. I think that’s really important and it’s how I run my restaurants in the UK.” Outlaw spent some of his time during his recent trip to Dubai down at the seafood markets in Deira and met a man he describes as “the selfproclaimed guru of the Dubai fish market”, who explained to him which sustainable varieties are available.

Since overfishing is a well-documented problem in the waters around Dubai, Outlaw says he will have to be extra cautious.

“I’m very careful The Burj Al Arab, Dubai with [sustainability] so they would have to really prove to me that it’s sustainable and I’d have to see it with my own eyes before putting it on the menu,” he says.

Outlaw is also intrigued to discover that many of the local varieties of fish and seafood are best suited to a raw preparation, and he looks forward to putting some marinated dishes on his menu as a result.

“It’s quite exciting for me because that’s one of my favourite types of preparation — the raw dishes,” he says, adding that he doesn’t like to call raw preparations ceviche since they are not necessarily Latin American. “I just call it marinated!” he laughs.

The menu itself won’t be a tasting menu or à la carte, April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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The big cheese

The floor-to-ceiling aquarium will remain a key feature of the restaurant

but a four-course set menu with six or seven options for each course, making up a total of 24 dishes, which will evolve with the seasons. And embarking on his first venture abroad, Outlaw is excited about the potential for experimentation this presents.

“The reason I get out of bed to cook seafood is because I love the potential for it to be different, so I’m like a kid in sweet shop coming to a new country where I’ve got so many things I can do,” he says.

In addition to learning about local produce, Outlaw has been doing lots of research into local tastes and one thing he has picked up on is the regional love Baked turbot of desserts.

“One of the greatest things I’ve discovered is the sweet tooth of the Arabic market, which is perfect because I’m going to do British puddings and they are really sweet,” he says. “Something like a sticky toffee pudding with dates as the main ingredient would be right up their street.”

To ensure the food and service is up to the same standard as his British venues, Outlaw has appointed two trusted employees, who opened his London restaurant just over three years ago. Head chef Pete Biggs and general manager Sharon McArthur have been working with Outlaw for 15 and 10 years respectively, and he believes they are indispensable to the project.

“This will ensure the standards I want and the standards the hotel wants from the restaurant are there. When I was invited to open the restaurant here, they were the first people I spoke to. If they had said no, I wouldn’t be doing this. It’s almost impossible to do something like this without having people that have worked with you for a long time.”

And Outlaw himself will spend two to three weeks in Dubai to ensure a successful launch in September, and aims to be back in the emirate every seven to eight weeks to check that everything is running smoothly.

He feels that his restaurant will also help to improve the image of Burj Al Arab’s F&B offer, with something more accessible than what has existed before.

“Going forward it’s part of our agenda to make sure people realise that Burj Al Arab is accessible, that you can afford to eat there. It’s not going to be overpriced, and we’re going to make it really inviting to come here,” he comments.

The restaurant will close between May and September for an extensive refurbishment, which will include the addition of a terrace to create extra light, and hopefully drive in more lunch business. However, the signature floor-to-ceiling aquarium will remain in place.

Explaining how the restaurant will compete on the Dubai market, Outlaw says: “With all the seafood restaurants I’ve seen in Dubai, I haven’t seen too many fine-dining ones. Even though we’re going to make it more accessible and relaxed, it’s still going to be a fine-dining restaurant because that’s what I’m known for.

“I think the street food and casual dining trend is very fashionable, but only really the good ones will survive in that space,” he says, adding that his strength is in being classical.

“Everything comes around, but my food has a touch of classic in it, and classic never goes out of fashion, especially if you do it well. I think we’ll stand out as a restaurant like no other in Dubai, which is really the aim of what we’re doing.”

“Everything comes around, but my food has a touch of classic in it, and classic never goes out of fashion, especially if you do it well.

I think we’ll stand out as a restaurant like no other in Dubai, which is really the aim of what we’re doing”

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Catering NEWS ME April 2016

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Out of this world

Out is of th World

Out of this World: Thai Catering News Middle East examines the trends, preparations and challenges of Thai cuisine in the Middle East How popular is Thai food in the Middle East?

Somporn Sintawee: I believe that character and flavour make the cuisine famous in the region, or it might be the fact that Doha is so multicultural. You can find many Thai restaurants in various styles, including Thai cooking classes as well.

Peter Tseng: There are more than 50 Thai restaurants in Dubai, which is testament to its popularity, however there is still a long way to go as far as being a standout compared to other cuisines like Italian, French or Japanese. Thai food has immense potential in the region and a lot more aspects of the cuisine are yet to be explored and introduced, which although challenging, will open up a whole new perspective on the cuisine, beyond the usual tom yum goong, pad Thai or green curry.

Aphichat Amatmontri: Looking at the current trends, Thai food is one of the most popular cuisines, and Asian food in general is being explored widely.

Peter Boripat: Thai cuisine has become immensely popular in Dubai, the Middle East and around the world. Over the past three years, a large number of Thai restaurants have opened in key locations and it is a common offering in reputed hotels. Thai food has a balance of flavours that makes it easy to cater to almost everyone’s tastes. People also appreciate the use of fresh ingredients and the health benefits of the herbs and vegetables used in Thai cooking.

Khamphun Plangthaisong: Thai food is really popular; it’s actually one of the top five most popular cuisines here in Dubai.

Have you adapted Thai food to suit local tastes?

Somporn: We can adapt the level of spice so diners can enjoy the food more. The locals are mostly attracted to seafood so we

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Catering NEWS ME April 2016

have created some seafood dishes using various methods of cooking and sauce selections on the side so they can enjoy it to their liking.

Peter Tseng: The majority of our diners are Asian people who are accustomed to the spice, while for most of our European and Emirati diners, we tone down the heat without compromising on the flavour profile that the dish demands, and that is where training the front of house staff comes into play. At Mango Tree, we spend a considerable amount of time training our servers, with clear explanations of the flavour profile, spice level, ingredients used and the allergen profile (we have a gluten-free menu too).

Feedback and guest preferences play a major role in menu changes and recipe development.

Aphichat: As the kitchen uses a lot of spices, we are adapting the spice levels of some of our dishes to tailor them to the mar-

Out of this world

Pai Thai, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

THE CHEFS Khamphun Plangthaisong chef de cuisine, Spice Emporium, The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi Beach Resort and Marina, Dubai

My hero dish: Stir-fried mixed meat and seafood with spicy Thai herbs

Peter Boripat chef de cuisine, Sontaya, St. Regis Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi

My hero dish: E-san combo, a Thai-style beef sausage with chili tamarind relish, accompanied by toasted and flavourful, authentic Thai vegetables, including white turmeric, local fern and Asian penny presented in a modern way.

ket. Upon request, we can add more or less spices accordingly. We don’t touch our recipes in any other way as they are traditional.

Peter Boripat: While the preparation method is somewhat authentic and similar to the old way of cooking, recipes nowadays have not only been tweaked to suit local audiences but also upgraded to enhance the dining experience. We make sure the food is less spicy to suit the local palates for a more enjoyable experience.

Khamphun: I adapt the dishes but not too much. I still keep the original authentic taste as I want to present real Thai cuisine.

What are the key trends emerging in Thai food?

Somporn: Presenting different Thai traditions and styles, such as street food.

Peter Tseng: Going forward Thai cuisine will be influenced, arguably, by four main aspects: marriage of locally-sourced ingredi-

Aphichat Amatmontri head chef, Pai Thai, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

My hero dish: Green curry chicken is known worldwide as one of the traditional dishes of Thailand

April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Images courtesy of Sontaya, St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, Abu Dhabi

ents and organic produce with Thai ingredients; toning down the spice; modern interpretations of the classics; and the rise of native Thai regional cuisine, such as Isaan, Eastern Thailand and Southern Thailand.

Aphichat: Authenticity, and using the original flavours is one of the trends.

Peter Boripat: Authentic Thai cuisine with modern interpretations is common around the globe and in the Middle East. There is a great emphasis on using the freshest and highest quality ingredients available, while still maintaining the authentic flavours of Thai cuisine, like we do in Sontaya.

Where do you source the produce for your menu?

Somporn: Most of the necessary ingredients are brought over from Thailand, for example coconut milk, lime, curry paste and sauces. However, we use some items from the local area, such as meat or vegetables for freshness and quality.

Peter Tseng: There is nothing you cannot get in Dubai; it is a chef’s paradise because it relies heavily on imports. All of our Thai vegetables and herbs are flown in fresh from Thailand including lemongrass, galangal, fresh peppercorns, morning glory and even Thai mangoes, routed through our distributors in the region. Provisions such as fish sauce, soya sauce and oyster sauce and Thai jasmine rice are also im42

Catering NEWS ME April 2016

ported from Thailand through the local distributor here in Dubai. Most of our seafood comes from France, Scotland and the Gulf coast, while the red meat comes from Australia, the duck from Thailand and the chicken from France and Brazil.

Aphichat: We have several privately imported items on a weekly basis in order to ensure the local flavours in our food.

Peter Boripat: Every holiday I visit Thailand to experience the local Thai restaurants, which helps me innovate my cooking methods and bring the latest Thai products to the Sontaya kitchen. St. Regis is committed to giving guests a bespoke experience and this is one of the many ways in which we contribute to the hotel brand promises. The availability of Thai products

in the local market has improved recently.

In the UAE, there are several suppliers specialised in importing Thai products.

Khamphun: I try to source as much as I can directly from Thailand.

What products do you find challenging to source?

Somporn: Delayed transportation is a challenge as produce takes a long time to arrive, which can affect the operation and the cost of products as well.

Peter Tseng: Ironically, locally grown products and seasonal produce are hard to source and they are in limited quantities. It is challenging to find the right channel for these products as not many people are taking the initiative to promote locally grown

Out of this world produce, but on the positive side, most of the chefs in hotels have made the effort to make provisions for sourcing or cultivating local produce, teaming up with farmers in the area or setting up a vegetable garden in the provisioned hotel space.

Peter Boripat: The St. Regis Saadiyat Island culinary team has a strong relationship with food suppliers and are the only hotelier to import some of the highly authentic Thai products directly from Thailand, including Thai vegetables and herbs, which are flown in frequently to ensure freshness.

Khamphun: Coconut milk and Thai fresh herbs can be difficult to get hold of.

How do you see your menu evolving over the next 12 months?

Somporn: We may create promotions such as Thai fruit week, or we might bring flavours from each region into the menu, present street food style options, or find new ways of creating contemporary Thai food with authentic flavours.

Peter Tseng: The coming months are exciting times for Mango Tree. One may see more and more organic and local produce on the menu and some classic Thai dishes deconstructed with molecular cuisine elements.

Aphichat: We will add more traditional dishes to the menu.

Peter Boripat: The menu is changed seasonally and based on the demands of our discerning guests. Every dish is critically reviewed by dining aficionados for valuable feedback before being included as part of the menu offering.

Khamphun: Our menu has proved very popular, so there are no immediate plans to make any changes at the moment.

What is the future of Thai food in the region?

Somporn: It will continue to increase in popularity and there will be more authentic food and fusion items to suit local tastes.

Peter Tseng: Diners in the region are becoming more experimental and are seeking creativity and excitement in their dining experiences. Posed with these challenges, Thai food has to evolve.

It will always remain in the preferred top five cuisines in the region and as more and more restaurants adopt a more pan Asian approach, Thai restaurants serving authentic Thai food will stand out. The only question is which restaurants will evolve and survive and pioneer modern Thai cuisine, and there is no better place to begin than right here in Dubai.

Aphichat: As people travel more and explore, Thai food will become more popular and necessary to the region, and the number of competitors will increase.

Peter Boripat: Thai cuisine is not only about tom yum, pad Thai, chicken green curry or papaya salad: there is a lot more to explore. The challenging thing is to be selective and create and introduce the dishes in ways to ensure that the customer is willing to try something new, in other words, to educate the customers about the cuisine. To do so, a chef needs to be innovative and flexible enough to make the dishes more approachable, look more attractive and be fun to try.

Khamphun: With Thai food being seen as a healthy choice, we’re seeing it becoming more popular and expect this to continue.

THE CHEFS

Somporn Sintawee chef de cuisine, Isaan

My hero dish: Pad Thai, which is stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, tofu, and flavoured with tamarind juice, palm sugar, fish sauce, and optional dried shrimp, grounded peanuts or shallots.

It may contain shrimps or chicken with vegetables, like bean sprouts.

Peter Tseng head chef, Mango Tree, Dubai

My hero dish: My personal favourite is the Gaeng Kiew Wahn Gai, or corn fed chicken in green curry. It is initially marinated in fresh green curry paste and later roasted and cooked in its own fat, and then finished in Thai green curry with eggplant and pea aubergines, spiked with chili and fresh sweet basil.

April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Food trends

Food s trend

PALEO As the prehistoric Paleo diet morphs from a trend into a lifestyle, Catering News asks how easy it is to follow in the Middle East, and whether it’s really as healthy as it seems

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T

he Paleo diet is based on foods mainly assumed to have been available to humans that existed during the prehistoric Paleolithic era, consisting of things like vegetables, fruits, nuts, roots, meat, and fish, while excluding dairy products, grains, sugars, legumes, processed oils, salt and alcohol or coffee. Endorsed by celebrities such as Uma Thurman and Megan Fox, the diet has become almost as household as vegan according to Patrick Ikinofo, executive chef at The Cycle Bistro, which has a menu largely made up of Paleo items.

Given the widely varied interpretation of Paleo, and the fact that some people deem it unhealthy to abstain from grains, The Cycle Bistro offers quinoa in the breakfast section of the menu, which explains why only 95% can be called truly Paleo. “We believe that we are Paleo and beyond. So if we use a product, it’s because we believe that it is worthy enough health-wise to be incorporated in our menu,” says Ikinofo.

The benefits of the Paleo diet are very clear to many, with Anette Lind, GM at DinnerTime, which provides Paleo grocery boxes with the ingredients and recipes for a week of home-cooked healthy dinners, commenting: “I would say that you perform better, feel lighter and fresher”. Chef Ibrahim Osseiran, executive chef of Mexican restaurants Flooka Dubai and Abu Dhabi, which have menus that are rich in salads, and fish and meat dishes, comments: “The Paleo diet is rich in antioxidant vitamins, omega-3 fatty acids and monounsaturated fat. It’s also naturally gluten-free and low in added sugars, trans fats, salt, and carbohydrates.”

Another advantage of the diet according to Osseiran is that it is easy to follows since “there are no shades of grey”, and no calorie counting or guessing appropriate portion sizes.

“Foods that people are more likely to over-indulge in, such as a rich chocolate brownie, are completely off limits. Therefore, the health benefits, improved energy levels, and generally feeling better, may be less associated with this specific diet and could be the result of cutting out high-calorie processed foods,” he adds.

On the flip side, there are some disadvantages of going Paleo, according to Arjun Bhattarai, head chef of Tribeca Kitchen & Bar, which earlier this year introduced a special Paleo menu, including items such as cauliflower rice, and Paleo banoffee pie with coconut, pecan nuts and chia seeds. He highlights that eating out can be difficult since many restaurants don’t yet offer Paleo options, and the diet is also “difficult to follow at a dinner party”.

“The main barriers for people adopting a Paleo diet in Dubai and the Middle East are the lack of outlets that serve a Paleo menu. I do think that this will change as the region becomes more educated about the benefits of a Paleo lifestyle,” he says.

Lind of DinnerTime also points out that a lack of information on recipes and where to buy ingredients is a barrier for those looking to get on board with Paleo, and Ikinofo of The Cycle Bistro says that this can even be harmful.

“Some people adopt this lifestyle half-heartedly and haven’t edu-

Food trends

Flank Steak Tacos with Mango Salsa

Salmon Cakes with Sweet Potato Fries

April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

All images courtesy of The Cycle Bistro

Tamari Fried Cauliflower Rice

cated themselves enough, so end up on some high protein, low carb diet and burn themselves out from lack of energy and vitamins,” he says.

In addition to this, the fast-paced nature of lifestyles in the region means that people often don’t have time to cook Paleo and opt for fast food instead. And even if they have the time, the ingredients for Paleo cooking can be expensive, and difficult to source.

“It’s going to take a while before we have Paleo ingredients easily available at grocery stores and supermarkets,” says Osseiran, who isn’t 100% convinced that Paleo is as good for the body as celebrities would have people think.

“The diet is heavily reliant on meat, and meat today isn’t as lean as it was thousands of years ago. In addition, adopting a diet from ancient times, when the average lifespan was in the 20s, seems less than appealing when one considers the average lifespan of today, which is in large part due to the eradication of nutrient deficiencies, thanks to fortified foods and dietary supplements. The Paleo diet falls short on some of these micronutrients, namely calcium and vitamin D,” he says.

That said, with levels of obesity and diabetes type 2 skyrocketing in the region, many experts believe that the Paleo diet is here to stay, with more followers likely to catch on over the coming years.

Ikinofo comments: “In only one year I have seen a lot more local followers of this diet and it’s on the rise. I believe it’s about educating our young people so we can avoid all the diseases and health issues that are so widespread today.”

Bhattarai adds: “More people in the Middle East are adapting to a Paleo lifestyle as more and more advocates including medical practitioners, nutritionists, fitness and lifestyle coaches and celebrities are openly discussing the benefits. The key in this region, is education, especially in schools.

“More restaurants are starting to focus on healthy eating and this is apparent with the number of new venues emerging that offer healthy eating choices. As demand increases so too will the number of venues that cater to various healthy lifestyle choices.”

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Live cooking demonstrations of the VarioCooking Center

Frima and Rational showcase VarioCooking Center S

mart cooking solutions providers, FRIMA and RATIONAL hosted an intimate gathering of key buyers, F&B professionals, chefs and members of the media at The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management, Dubai to showcase FRIMA’s VarioCooking Center.

Live cooking demonstrations of the VarioCooking Center, which was launched at this year’s Gulfood, highlighted the smart technology of the cooker by demonstrating its flexibility through different functions, including boiling, searing and deep-frying.

The VarioCooking Center is available in four sizes: 2x14L, 2x 25L, 100L and 150L. The appliance offers maximum flexibility and provides a sufficient frying surface and boiling capacity. It can even be used for pressure cooking. The height of the pan base also facilitates long frying processes compared to similar large tilting pans or multifunctional appliances.

Speaking exclusively to Hotel News ME, Nicolas Makowski, international sales director, FRIMA International said: “The VarioCooking Center is essentially the world’s fastest 46

Catering NEWS ME April 2016

cooker. Through being able to integrate previously complex processes, chefs can now incorporate boiling, baking and frying all in one place. With more than 20,000 installed, VarioCooking Center, FRIMA is the marked leader for multifunctional cooking appliances.

“The new 112L model caters to an under-represented market. The VarioCooking Center is ideal for anyone with limited space who requires flexibility and the capacity to produce larger quantities during peak times.”

The VarioCooking Center achieves maximum energy savings of up to 40% compared to other conventional cooking appliances.

It is also up to four times faster. The overnight cooking function creates additional capacity as it allows users to cook a roast or make a stock without supervision.

The integrated cooking intelligence achieves perfect cooking results. For example, pasta is automatically drained at the end of its cycle and the unit notifies the user when pan fried food needs turned. The machine also regulates temperature to the precise degree, so that liquids can never boil over or burn.

Marketplace

VarioCooking Center April 2016 Catering NEWS ME

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Marketplace

Forking out

Catering News takes a look at the latest cutlery products on the market, with style, functionality and user-comfort the key attributes of the most competitive players

Bahraja General Trading Bahraja General Trading’s latest launch is the new LUCE collection of cutlery, which features a synthesis of quality and Italian design. The high level of craftsmanship is what differentiates the product on the market, with each piece treated with the latest technical processes to ensure the products resist scratching and oxidation. The company offers a wide range of models that can meet any request for customisation.

This year, Bahraja is also looking to expand its tableware range, from glasses to contemporary metal plates and accessories.

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Marketplace

1765 Gemini UK brand Robert Welch, supplied in the region by 1765 Gemini, has recently released extensions to both the mid-century chic Limbrey collection and the Drift collection, which features wave-like designs. As with all Robert Welch products, the care and attention to detail in the design is what sets these pieces apart from others. The design team strives to create aesthetically pleasing, functional products, which are timeless, high quality and unique since they are protected worldwide and cannot be copied.

Prices are competitive and 1765 Gemini holds stock in UAE, and prides itself on offering fast service for the local market.

This year, 1765 Gemini is increasing stock levels across all of its ranges to over US $1million. This includes Robert Welch, Churchill, Stรถlzle Glass, IVV glass, MStyle, Pordamsa and Toyo Sasaki as well as its own brand designs of tabletop products.

Marketplace

Villeroy & Boch Villeroy & Boch’s latest addition to its cutlery collection is the luxurious partially gold-plated flatware series, La Classica Partially Gold-Plated. The range is manufactured from stainless steel 18/10 and possesses a minimalist, linear design, creating a restrained appearance. The silhouette of La Classica accentuates its slenderness and the partial gold-plating further emphasises its elegance. The matte, velvety gold creates a charming contrast to the brilliant stainless steel, without disturbing the balanced, smooth overall appearance. All pieces of the La Classica Partially Gold-Plated series, especially the high quality and well-balanced hollow handle knife, are eye-catching and sit comfortably in the hands of the user.

The hotel and restaurant division of Villeroy & Boch provides customers with competent and solution-oriented services, both before and after purchase. The company also continues to add more colour to the table this year with the recent launch of Genesis by Affinity, a new tableware range.

A. Ronai LLC Ronai is the distributor for the Oneida range of flatware throughout the Middle East. The company has a host of new collections available for 2016, including the Cabria range and a variety of steak knives and serving accessories. The distinctive pattern of Cabria showcases a modern silhouette and contour, with a bright hammered textured finish.

The forks and spoons feature a gentle curvature through the handle, making this pattern a pleasure to hold, and offering a distinctive design for any table. All of Ronai’s cutlery is made of high quality 18/10 stainless steel with classic ranges as well as a more contemporary offering. The company carries a wide variety of pieces in stock with competitive prices so it can cater for every requirement. Ronai has recently partnered with Row & Sons, a UK based company producing a host of uniquely designed wooden chopping boards, butchers blocks and serving pieces, perfect for the kitchen, restaurant or buffet. Row & Sons has also combined ECS wood fibre technology to make its Pro Duet serving platters, creating a dishwasher safe serving solution.

Marketplace

Procurio Ercuis, supplied by Procurio, has recently launched the Chorus range, a bold and contemporary solid steel flatware range, which presents a double-sided design, with front and back offering a different visual impact and soft curves creating a rippled effect. Applying a distinctive and contemporary creative approach, Ercuis has rejuvenated its solid steel collection, giving the brand a more modern appeal through the new flatware range. In 2016, Ercuis will also present NUAGES, a new tableware range of servers with steel and silver-plated options. The range is elegant, modern and functional, and reinvents serving methods at a dinner table or buffet. Inspired by the natural environment, the tableware collection enhances dishes with multifunctional design that inspires culinary creativity and individuality.

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Marketplace

Saudi packaged Nespresso launches Aguila 220 food company Goody professional barista machine expands to UAE

Saudi Arabian packaged food business, Goody, has entered an exclusive partnership with Gulf Trading & Refrigerating LLC (GULFCO) to distribute its packaged products to the UAE. Initially the company will launch its core ranges of pasta, tuna, peanut butter and canned corn in the UAE, a market it estimates being worth AED 16 billion for the Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) sector, with a 3% growth over the past year.

Khalid Temairik, general manager of Goody commented: “With one of the most dynamic food and beverage sectors in the region, entering the UAE now allows us to target both the domestic and trade arenas, providing quality packaged foods and diversity of choice to customers.

“Partnering with GULFCO allows us to facilitate a smooth entry, and provides us with access to the UAE’s leading retailers and traders, through their longstanding and committed relationships.”

Goody has an initial target of 400 plus stores in modern trade and 500 stores in traditional trade, with a growth potential of 11,000 stores across the country.

The company also has plans to tap into the UAE’s horeca sector, which could represent up to 50% of Goody’s business in the country.

Khaled Issa, chief operating officer at Juma Al Majid Group, the partner company of GULFCO, said: “Goody represents decades of trust and quality from the region that families and professionals have come to respect and trust.

“This partnership provides us with the opportunity to offer more choice to our customers, while giving consumers quality products made in the region, and designed to cater to a modern way of life.”

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Nespresso has introduced the Aguila 220 coffee machine, which is designed to meet the needs of large horeca operations.

With a smaller footprint and the same technology as the Nespresso Aguila 420, first launched in 2011, the Aguila 220 features a range of one-touch gourmet recipes, and is convenient to operate and maintain.

Oliver Perquy, head of out of home channel, Nestlé Nespresso SA commented: "Our professional customers are very important to us and we are thrilled to extend the Aguila range to include the innovative and compact barista machine, Aguila 220.

"The Aguila range reflects Nespresso’s desire to provide our professional partners with the highest quality coffee, choice, convenience and service that consumers have come to expect of their coffee experiences."

The machine can make up to 4,000 coffees per month and has two extraction heads allowing for simultaneous preparation of beverages.

It creates temperature-regulated milk foam, four one-touch recipes, 12 pre-programmed hot milk-based coffee recipes and three programmable cup sizes for ristretto, espresso and lungo.

The launch of the Aguila 220 further strengthens Nespresso’s professional offering, which includes a complete machine portfolio and 11 Grand Cru coffees.

Royal Catering chefs demonstrate skills at BRIDE Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi-based Royal Catering this year elevated its sponsorship of BRIDE Abu Dhabi as Official VIP Partner and its chefs demonstrated wedding cake, dessert and fruit carving creation at the show, which took place from 13-16 April at Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre (ADNEC).

Royal Catering chief operating officer, Jean Pierre Garat said: “Royal Catering understands the importance of presenting a wedding with elegance and attention to detail, whether it is welcoming a traditional Emirati celebration, or an intimate friends-and-family-only occasion.

“Royal Catering’s longevity in creating memorable celebrations finds a synergy with the Bride Show, which led us to increase our level of sponsorship for such a prestigious event to Official VIP Partner.”

Royal Catering has sponsored BRIDE since 2013, and this year as Official VIP Partner, the company presented a 60m2 stand and a 6m2 ‘Creating Celebrations’ zone, where couples were advised on themes and menus for their wedding day.

Royal Catering’s chef Mulham demonstrated his expertise with wedding cake design on the main stage of the show, and chefs Eric and Fabrice offered tasters of their sweets and desserts, including nitro-ice cream with frizz popcorn and the Emirati dessert, Luqaimat, in different flavours. Meanwhile, vegetable carver, chef Sisil Weddikkara, was on the main stage demonstrating his fruit carvings.

The stand also displayed crockery and flatware, along with table settings and linen.

Based in Abu Dhabi, Royal Catering provides catering and hospitality services across its three main divisions: contractual, commercial and creative innovation.

Marketplace

PRECISION REFRIGERATION Nick Williams, managing director of Precision Refrigeration showcases the Counter 670 series

What is unique about the Counter 670 series?

With over 12,000 possible configurations, this range is extremely flexible to suit most requirements with options for front-ofhouse use as well. There are different door and drawer height combinations to fit in with kitchen workflow and the products are made in the UK. The units are front breathing and venting so they can be completely built in to save space in a busy commercial kitchen. Worktops are removable for builtin applications. Designed for low energy consumption, the 670 units have a large LCD controller screen showing status. An anti-drip worktop stops water from tracking back underneath the worktop and dripping down on to the door and drawer gasket and potentially entering the storage area.

What is the most important feature of the perfect refrigerator?

Refrigeration operates 24/7 so it needs to be reliable and backed up by great service at a reasonable price.

What are the latest trends in refrigerators?

Energy labeling will allow customers to choose the most energy-efficient refrigeration. With the advent of theatre-style cooking, more equipment is situated at front-ofhouse, meaning refrigeration needs to look good and have design flexibility, so it can fit in with dĂŠcor and branding.

What maintenance service do you offer your clients?

We offer a two-year parts and labour warranty. Maintenance is provided through our network of kitchen equipment dealers.

Nick Williams, managing director of Precision Refrigeration

Contact W: precision-refrigeration.co.uk T: +44 (0)1842 753 994

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Spill the beans

Some of La Serre's signature cocktails

La Serre Interior

Spill the beans Henrik Baecklund, the new head bartender at La Serre Bistro Bar Dubai, reveals the secrets of the venue’s new cocktail menu

What experience do you bring to La Serre?

With a professional background in hospitality, I have worked in many bars and nightclubs around the world, gaining solid experience in high-end cocktail crafting.

I therefore bring a strong background in cocktail development, with an emphasis on creating cocktails tailored to individual requirements. I like to add a friendly and welcoming vibe to a bar.

Why did you accept your new role?

Having spent time managing a number of large-scale events here in Dubai, I decided to go back into bar tending and focus on the fine art of cocktail making. At an establishment like La Serre, I am given the chance to use the finest raw materials, including freshly squeezed fruit juices, homemade sugar syrups, and top quality spirits. I work with a very knowledgeable team that helps me drive the cocktail bar forward.

How have you developed the new cocktail menu?

By picking up regional ideas and trends and combining these with my personal tastes. I love to experiment with flavour and texture and the menu sees the use of fresh herbs, berries, fruits, fresh fruit juice squeezed in-house and high quality ice blocks and 54

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hand-cut spheres. The bar features interesting and high quality spirits, including house spirit infusions such as blueberry vodka, which is a key component of one of our signature cocktails, The Parisian 769.

What are the latest trends in cocktails and ingredients?

I can see an emerging trend of working with scrubs (fruit or herbal), which is a way of macerating sugar, vinegar and fruit for a longer period to make a type of sugar infusion which is used as a sweet or savory ingredient in cocktails. Another trend is to infuse spirits in oak barrels with prebatched cocktails to enhance the flavours and aromas, for example, with the Martinez, Negroni, and the Old Fashioned.

In addition to this, more and more bars are developing their own recipes for bitters and mixers, such as ginger beers and homemade tonic waters. There is also a strong emphasis on the type and shape of ice used in each cocktail, which can be either in block shapes or in spheres to give that extra-special presentation, while keeping the cocktails chilled to perfection.

Do you face any challenges when sourcing cocktail ingredients in Dubai?

There are no huge challenges when it

comes to finding good raw materials here in the Middle East as most of them are available either for regular import, special import or can even be found locally. However, the spirits offering is much more limited in comparison to Europe. I think over time we will see an increase in the availability of speciality spirits and with this, a steady demand for the less commercialised spirits. If the ingredients are not available, it forces bars to develop their own bitters, syrups and mixers, which is healthy for the progression of the bar and drives the cocktail scene forward in Dubai.

What is your signature cocktail?

One of my favorites at the moment is the “Chocorange” which is a twist on the popular Old Fashioned. It’s made with a delicious variation of Diplomatic 12 years, Cointreau, Mozart dark chocolate liquor, homemade dark cherry syrup, chocolate bitters and orange bitters all stirred and served in a crystal glass on a hand-cut ice sphere. The last crucial thing is to grate some French premium Valrhona chocolate on top of the drink with some orange oil from orange zest to create that finishing touch. It’s sublime!

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