e
A L E X A N D E R
Catherine Tantoso
M C Q
S P R I N G / S U M M E R
Marini Putri
2 0 1 5
C O L L E C T I O N
Nadia Annette
Ratu Inesa
Alexander McQueen Fashion Designer March 17, 1969 - February 11, 2010 London, United Kingdom
BIOGRAPHY
Alexander McQueen was born on March 17 1969, in Lewisham, London. He enrolled at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design and received his M.A in fashion design in 1992. Before he achieved his master’s degree, he offered an apprenticeship at Savile Row Tailors Anderson and Shephard and then moved to Gieves and Hawkes. Decided to continue his career in cloth making, he moved to theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans where the melodramatic style of the clothing that he made there has become a McQueen signature. He even travelled to Milan and worked for Italian fashion designer Romeo Gigli as a design assistant. He was the head designer of the Louis Vuitton owned Givenchy, a French haute couture house, before he was starting his own line. In 2004, he launched his own menswear line, and won the British Fashion Council’s British Designer of the Year award four times. McQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world in less than 10 years. He is best known for his fanciful runway shows and the shows known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. McQueen committed suicide in 2010, shortly after his mother death.
OVERVIEW
The brand that embodies an urban and young British, McQ is the contemporary brand from the famous British brand Alexander McQueen. Founded in 2005, McQ exclusively designed by Alexander McQueen, one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. McQ began as a vibrant alternative to the ethereal fantasy and couture craft of the main line, Alexander McQueen, McQ established itself as the brand that represents young, renegade yet always capture the signature McQueen style. McQ carries men and women’s ready-to-wear collections as well as the accessories. Unlike the core Alexander McQueen brand, McQ targeted more into the younger age starts from 20s to 40s. McQ has always taken inspiration from street scene and bring to mind the varied and ever-evolving style tribes that spring up around Britain’s rich music and art scene. In addition, the sense of individuality and rebellious spirits continue to inspire the brand. McQ presents the relaxed, raw interpretation of the house codes with the traditional techniques that are used in contemporary ways. Yet, since the death of Alexander McQueen, McQ run by the Creative Director, Sarah Burton that said to be the one who has the strongest signatures in fashion. With years of experiences in the industry, she will never run out of ideas to liven up this sister brand of Alexander McQueen.
SPRING/SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION
CONTENTS SIGNATURE STYLE INSPIRATION TARGET MARKET COLLECTION SILHOUETTE & CUTTING FABRIC & COLOR ANALYSIS INTERVIEW
As McQ is a second line started by the late Alexander McQueen. Other than McQ , Alexander McQueen also has the leading brand with his name that has a more detailed, couture pieces of clothing that is not ready for wear and are targeted for many ages, depends on who order the designs which mostly are Celebrities or the Royals. McQ itself is now lead by Sarah Burton as the creative director of fashion brand Alexander McQueen. Unlike the leading brand, McQ has more to ready to wear, fresh and young collection that targeted the younger age starts from the 20s to the 40s. Taking the young British people as the inspiration, McQ bring up the boldest colours, patterns and fabrics as their signature style. The combination between black, white and red compiled with the tartan prints on the most stylish yet comfortable cotton and leather fabric. Even though as we all may have reckon that tartan prints wasn’t started by McQ or Alexander McQueen himself, McQ has it’s own kind of tartan which implies in some transparent squares and some more opaque ones with smaller red lines and bigger, darker lines so it makes the MCQ tartan one of a kind and different than the other tartans. In addition, McQ famous for its symbols, razor and swallow that often used in the design of their ready to wear collections especially for the accessories. McQ also frequently use their signature “McQ” logo that we can find it mostly in menswear, on the polo shirt, shirts, hoodie, t-shirts and also on the casual collections of the women’s wear, such as on the t-shirts and sweater as well. However, even McQ tend to concentrate on the ready to wear and youngsters’ pieces of clothing, McQ also has some collections of evening wear such as dresses and heels for women and fancy button down shirt for men. But, not to forget their signature style, even evening wear are mostly the ones with beads or some sheer and heavy fabrics, McQ’s dresses, are simple and young with no heavy beadings, floor sweeping long dress or complicated cuttings. We can mostly find mini, midi or maxi dresses in simple cuttings and easy openings that we can just slide in and ready to be in action. While most designers have their own muse or favorite icons to be in their designs, not with McQ. McQ use the young British people as their muse and core value, and by not specify it to one person, McQ believes that McQ has their own specialty to be able to attract young people due to their wider range of ‘muses’ and inspirations. McQ tend to not following the current trend, instead they create and have their own style. Nothing says McQ better than Edgy, Bold, Young, Fresh and British. With it’s black, white, red colours and tartans on the premium fabrics like the signature leather and cotton of McQ , McQ gives you the young spirit you’ll ever need to stay fresh and edgy.
SIGNATURE STYLE
SPRING SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION When summer and spring collections are mostly dominated by flowery, flowing kind of dress or some bright flower printed shirt for the guys, McQ always go for the better different way. Unlike the other brand who go with the bright colours and pattern, McQ uses their signature colours and prints for their new collection; McQ Spring/Summer 2015 which are Black, White, Red and Metallic, followed by tartan, checkered, photocopy – like prints, ¬denim and even a little leather for the print, fabric and texture. McQ Spring/Summer 2015 collection is inspired by the 90’s look that have some taste of punk, grunge, sporty and wearable messy touch on the designs. The inspiration started by examining the young British culture that is really varied when it comes to fashion but most of them always go with the famously known and get – on – the – go look such as: Plaids, Denim and Tartan. By this matters, McQ tend to absorb this culture and make it a signature for their spring summer 2015 collection but not forget to give a little high end touch by also inserting some metallic schemes and leather into their designs. The British youth are known for their opened mind and braveness in trying some new trends and fashion items. Talking about metallic jacket or tartan long – dress that can really drag attention and bring the people who wear it as the center of the crowd. As McQ targets are the young, fresh minded and spontaneous youngsters, the designs are not the kind of a fancy, body hugging, sensual, or beaded kind of pieces of clothing. Still keeping their signature design of young and edgy, MCQ S/S 2015 mostly go with the silhouette of blazer, denim shirt, straight cut pants, midi dresses, flowing skirts and jacket for the womenwear and for the menswear, the main items are jackets – varied from army jackets, leather jackets, parachute jacket to metallic jacket, patterned shirt, sweaters, calf length rolled up pants, bleached denim shirt patterned pants and cardigans.
Talking about the 90’s fashion, we all might have some rock stars and rock icons like Kurt Cobain and his lovely wife, Courtney Love, or the famous 90’s supermodels Cindy Crawford and the lovely Jennifer Anniston. But, that is not all what MCQ try to rise in this new collection campaign. The collection might have a little grunge like Kurt Cobain, a little teasing like Courtney Love, bit of smoldering sexy like Cindy Crawford and a taste of playfulness like Jennifer Anniston. While punk and edgy are also what MCQ try to bring up this upcoming season, MCQ try not to be too harsh on showing it. There are no studs nor spikes and patches in this collection. Therefore, we think that it is quite safe to say that although this S/S 15 of MCQ brings up the theme of 90’s punk, edgy, rock and young Brit, they still keep their signature style of clean cut and well tailored. Not just by the clothing pieces itself, the edgy – punk rock grunge – Brit style is also being brought up through the campaign, for example the photo shoots and the catwalk. When we look at the photo shoots for this upcoming collection of MCQ S/S 2015, we can see that the female model have the kind of un-brushed, medium length platinum bleached blonde hair that is really big during the 90’s that gives the feeling of messy and rebel look followed by nude makeup, while the guy has that kind of 90’s rockstar look with pretty messy longer blonde hair and careless – but – hot kind of appearance. To sum up, MCQ S/S 2015 offers something different than most of other spring/summer collections that has flowery or other nature objects on its flowing, beach friendly fabric. The statement black, white, red colour combined with the tartan, photocopy – like and metallic touch will get you the most different spring summer look. Edgier, fresher and bolder spring and summer for the youngsters it is!
INSPIRATION
Urban Culture; Familiar to digital technology, communication and information technology, user of social media (Facebook, Youtube, Instagram, Twitter, Path, Pinterest), love to hang out, shopper, gym goer
Update with the latest trend and information (fashion, music, movie, etc), easy going, independent, energetic
Occasional and Regular Shopper Strong
Personality
Purchase Occasion Loyalty Status
A-B+
Female and Male Locals or Foreigners 20 - 45 Bachelor, Master Degree Gen Y (born on 1980s - 2000s) - Gen X (born on 1960s - 1980s) House Wife, Entrepreneur, Employees (Top Level), Entertainers Modern - Small Single, Married IDR 300.000.000/year - and above
Life Style
Social Class Psychography
Demography Sex Citizenship Age Education Generation Occupation Family Size Family Live Cycle Income
TARGET MARKET
SPRING
SUMMER ‘15 C O L L E C T I O N
SILHOUETTES & CUTTINGS A L E X A N D E R
Empire Line
M C Q
S P R I N G / S U M M E R
2 0 1 5
C O L L E C T I O N
Dropped Waist Princess Line
Asymmetric
Romper Suit Goucho Pant Asymmetric Skirt Wrap Dress
Biker Jacket Dinner Jacket
V-Neck
Round Neck
TOP : Cardigan wore on the top of round – necked T-Shirt. BOTTOM : Patterned Bermuda
TOP : Striped Bomber Jacket BOTTOM : Patched Jeans Pants
TOP: Button Down Shirt with traditional collar BOTTOM: Patterned Bermuda
TOP: Motorcycle Leather jacket layering a round neck graphic T-Shirt. BOTTOM: Striped Bermuda
TOPS: Graphic round necked T – Shirt layered by a patterned traditional collared shirt and layered again by traditional collared denim shirt with photocopy prints. BOTTOM: Ripped Skinny Jeans.
FABRIC COLOR Inspired by 90’s , McQueen use these several colors and fabric for Spring / Summer 2015 collection. For McQ upcoming collection, Metalic leather will be main color for making its standout, combined with other color which is McQ’s basic colors and fabrics.
Scratch lines
Black Cotton
White Cotton
White Silk
Black Silk
Denim
Metalic Silver Leather
Metalic Gold Leather
Red Tartan
Grey Tartan
INTERVIEW ANALYSIS Concept and Inspiration When summer and spring collections are mostly dominated by flowery, flowing kind of dress or some bright flower printed shirt for the guys, McQ always go for the better different way. Unlike the other brand who go with the bright colours and pattern, McQ uses their signature colours and prints for their new collection; McQ Spring/Summer 2015 which is Black, and combined with White, Grey, Red, Brown, Blue and Metallic, followed by tartan, checkered, photocopy – like prints, ¬denim and even a little leather for the print, fabric and texture. McQ Spring/Summer 2015 collection is inspired by the 90’s look that have some taste of punk, grunge, sporty and wearable messy touch on the designs. The inspiration started by examining the young British culture that is really varied when it comes to fashion but most of them always go with the famously known and get – on – the – go look such as: Plaids, Denim and Tartan. By this matters, McQ tend to absorb this culture and make it a signature for their Spring/Summer 2015 collection but not forget to give a little high end touch by also inserting some metallic schemes and leather into their designs. The British youth are known for their opened mind and braveness in trying some new trends and fashion items. Talking about metallic jacket and cardigans or tartan long – dress that can really drag attention and bring the people who wear it as the center of the crowd. As MCQ targets are the young, fresh minded and spontaneous youngsters, the designs are not the kind of a fancy, body hugging, sensual, or beaded kind of pieces of clothing. Still keeping their signature design of young and edgy, MCQ S/S 2015 mostly go with the silhouette of blazer, denim shirt, straight cut pants, midi dresses, flowing skirts and jacket for the womenwear and for the menswear, the main items are jackets – varied from army jackets, leather jackets, parachute jacket to metallic jacket, patterned shirt, sweaters, calf length rolled up pants, bleached denim shirt patterned pants and cardigans.
Talking about the 90’s fashion, we all might have some rock stars and rock icons like Kurt Cobain and his lovely wife, Courtney Love, or the famous 90’s supermodels Cindy Crawford and the lovely Jennifer Anniston. But, that is not all what McQ try to rise in this new collection campaign because is not important who represents the brand as long as it portrays the signature styles or image of McQ which is edgy, young Brit. Yet, the collection might have a little grunge like Kurt Cobain, a little teasing like Courtney Love, bit of smoldering sexy like Cindy Crawford and a taste of playfulness like Jennifer Anniston. While punk and edgy are also what McQ try to bring up this upcoming season, McQ try not to be too harsh on showing it. There are no studs nor spikes and patches in this collection. Therefore, we think that it is quite safe to say that although this S/S 15 of McQ brings up the theme of 90’s punk, edgy, rock and young Brit, they still keep their signature style of clean cut and well tailored. Not just by the clothing pieces itself, the edgy – punk rock grunge – Brit style is also being brought up through the campaign, for example the photo shoots and the catwalk. When we look at the photo shoots for this upcoming collection of McQ S/S 2015, we can see that the female model have the kind of un-brushed, medium length platinum bleached blonde hair that is really big during the 90’s that gives the feeling of messy and rebel look followed by nude makeup, while the guy has that kind of 90’s rockstar look with pretty messy longer blonde hair and careless – but – hot kind of appearance. To sum up, McQ S/S 2015 offers something different than most of other spring/summer collections that has flowery or other nature objects on its flowing, beach friendly fabric. The statement black, white, red colour combined with the tartan, photocopy – like and metallic touch will get you the most different spring summer look.
Edgier, fresher and bolder spring and summer for the youngsters it is! Target Market As we have already observed by visiting the McQ by Alexander McQueen store at Plaza Senayan, people who come to the stores are mostly male aged 30 and above. Some of them dress casually and seem to have good taste of fashion from the way they dress, and the rest look professional, they dress on their office attires. There were also female aged 25 and above, we can see that some of them are housewives because she brought her children to the store and the others are office workers. We can see that the people who visited the McQ store are from B+ class from the way they dress and what accessories they wore. Men who visited McQ store dress nicely and look neat. As for the women, some of them dressed casually and fashionable and the rest dressed on their professional yet fashionable office attires, some of them were also using branded stuffs as well. Since it is the first store of McQ by Alexander McQueen in Indonesia; they see the importance of understanding the needs and desires of the targeted customers in terms of the fashion style. As we know the fashion style in Indonesia and UK is a bit different, with the rebellious spirits that inspire the brand and edgy style of the young Brit, it seems that some of the collections will not be fit with fashion style in Indonesia. Therefore, the McQ team in Indonesia always trying to follow what kind of collections that people in Indonesia, especially Jakarta do like. They frequently do research on this and every time they are going to buy the new collection for Jakarta’s store, the team do cater several collections and pick the collection based on the result of the survey on what kind of style that goes all with the Indonesian market. As for the Spring / Summer 2015 collection that inspired by the 90s look that presents the punk rock and edgy style, the team see that they do have
people who like the edgy style of McQ and the edgy style in Indonesia start to emerging right now. Though the collections of the Spring/Summer 2015 presents the grunge, edgy and punk styles, all the designs are still subtle and it fits with the daily wear of some of the youngster in Jakarta. Since people in Jakarta not really playing with the extreme colors, the colors chosen are neutral with the main color of black and white with a bit touch of grey, red, and the splash of metallic colors to portrays the modernity. As for the menswear, denim is the main items in this collection, which is blue and the combination of black, grey, brown and a bit of metallic colors as well. The Spring/Summer 2015 collection also depicts sporty looks, which nowadays become a current fashion trend for the youngster in Indonesia, especially Jakarta. And to be honest, the silhouette and cuttings is pretty simple, it is just right to dress simply and be relaxed for spring and summer. Talking about the competitors, though McQ create and bring their very own trend or styles, they would see Alexander Wang somehow has the same look and feel with them. They are thinking See by Chloe since that brand has the same positioning with them. Color Scheme For McQ spring/summer 2015 collection, the inspirations behind the label’s creation have always been unusual. The color should be represented edgy, brit and young style since it is the core values of McQ. Most of the McQ’s collections majorly set in dark color tones, particularly they have black for every season, it is such a basic color for them. But for this upcoming Spring/Summer 2015, the color had been combined with white, red, blue, brown, grey and metallics. Since the mood for this collection depict 90s mood, edgy, grunge, punk and also sporty styles, the colors used in Spring/Summer 2015 collection are in line with the image they want to show by using the darker color. Other than that, this collections using metallic colors and it
mixed well between the darker and calm colors that could represents 90s edgy, grunge and sporty look with the combination of metallic color to add the high end touch. The color chosen, especially the metallic ones will give different image and more standout from the previous McQ’s collections since it is the first time they are using metallic colors. In addition, with the basic colors like black, white and red that McQ using in almost every season, it gives the idea of McQ stays with the images of using the black, red and white color combination. Moreover, the colors chosen reflect the simplicity in this collection. Not only for ready to wear collection, the bag, shoes and accessories will be used the same color palette too.
But they still use the same classic McQ color palettes, which exhibit a lot of white, black, red, and their signature tartan.
Fabric Choices The fabrics used in the Spring/Summer 2015 collection are denim, metallic leather (silver and gold), leather, flannel, cotton, silk, crochet, feathers, jersey, knits, metallics knits, nylon, broderie anglaise, parachute. By using denim as the fabrics it captures the main inspiration of this Spring/Summer 2015 collection which is 90s fashion, since denim is became the trend back then. This collection using Tartan motif pattern, which is identical with the 90s fashion style and it has always become McQ’s signature style in most of the season as well. McQ never use metallic colors before, yet for this upcoming collection, they use a lot of metallic colors and it will make the collection more standout as well.
As for the Spring/Summer 2013 ready to wear menswear collection, it balances between strictly high-end, contemporary menswear with elements of offbeat and unconventional details, prints and cutting. There is some silhouettes from this collection that used in the Spring/summer 2015 collection, such as jeans, slim fit shirts, knitwear, and bomber jacket.
Sillhoutte, Cuttings and Stylings For the Spring/Summer 2014 ready to wear collection, digital prints take centre stage and the drawing inspiration from reptile skin and lace. There is only one silhouette from this collection that used in the Spring/Summer 2015, which is the biker jacket. They have totally different styles, since most of the Spring/Summer 2014 looks are using pants and Spring/Summer 2015 emphasizing more into dresses therefore they don’t have many same silhouettes.
The styling of the Spring/Summer 2015, the combination of top, bottom and outerwear of the collection really represent the 90s fashion, edgy, grunge, and sporty styles. In addition, what makes it more stand out is that how different the feel and mood of McQ’s Spring Summer 2015 compare to other designers. Other ollection tends to be flowery, bright, cheerful and use a lot of pastel colors. When McQ keeps their own groove and go for their edgy street look that screams 90’s fashion. McQ definitely took 90’s fashion to a higher level.
The similarity of the cuttings in the collection is quiet noticeable. They use a lot of loose cuttings, there is only a little tight and body shaping cuttings in the collection. They pretty much adapt the cuttings and silhouette from the 90s fashion.