A/W – S/S 2018 COLLECTION
Catherine Belcher 201221278 DESN 1375
CONTENTS 1 • INTRODUCTION FALL/WINTER 18’ 4 • Cardigan 5 • Bucket Bag 6 • Shirt 7 • Chinos 8 • Hoop Earrings SPRING/SUMMER 18’ 12 • Shell Suit 14 • Loafers 15 • Sunglasses 17 • CONCLUSION REFERENCES FIGURE LIST
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GUCCI 2018 COLLECTION
INTRODUCTION The Gucci A/W 2018 and S/S 2018 collection includes statement pieces which embody a mixture of styles inspired by past eras and re-occurring trends throughout time. Alessandro Michele does this by utilising past trends whilst reworking and adapting specific elements of the pieces with more recent modifications in trends, technology, culture and economics. This is seen through the Fall/Winter collection as Michele has brought together contrasting pieces which have “always been in the DNA of the brand” (Vogue 2019). Similar to this, the for the Spring/Summer collection, Michele has got “pieces borrowed from the past [which] are mixed and transformed into ensembles relevant in the here and now” (Vogue 2019). Therefore, by analysing these two collections, the focus of this report is to explore the multiple influences on the garments through both collections.
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A/W 2018
GUCCI A/W 2018 COLLECTION
Men’s jacket with NY YankeesTM patch
This men’s cardigan became popular after James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, was “removed from a military post for misconduct” (Sims 2011) After the Second World War, the cardigan became a symbol of relaxation due to the soft, thick and fur-trim (Sims 2011) as well as an association with the older
generation because of well-known men such as David Bowie. In the 40s and 50s, the cardigan started to become more common with college and university students. When they reached a “certain standard in their studies or achieved success in a team sport” (Sims 2011) they were awarded with a “chenille letter” (Sims 2011) stitched onto the left-hand side of the cardigan. Michelle has revived this sport-like style through adding the customised Major League Baseball New York Yankees patch. This is a strong contrast between Michele’s normal collaborations, this may be due to Baseball appealing to such a large demographic in the 21st century as well as the logo being so easily recognisable. This allows Gucci to help disguard the stereotypical masculine connotations with sports by putting the logo on multiple garments for men and women (Jasman 2018) PAGE 4
GUCCI A/W 2018 COLLECTION
The
Bucket
Bag
is
a
timeless
accessory, first created in 1932 by Louis Vuitton, created to carry five bottles of champagne. It became the “classy lady’s summertime purse option” (Wellington 2015). From 1962 to 1974, the bucket bag constantly came in and out of fashion without much change in the overall style. During this era, the less embellished bag was more common. Although Michelle has re-worked this famous bag by adding the “beige and ebony GG Supreme canvas” (Gucci 2019) as well as the iconic red and green web stripe, a pattern which broke away from the traditional bucket bag design. Furthermore, the addition of the extra strap allows the bag to be worn as a crossbody which provides more usability as well as style. By the 1980s, a popular trend to hit clothing and accessories were the outburst of names, logos and initials (Costantino 1997). This
Ophidia GG bucket bag
updated version is reminiscent of Gucci’s avant-garde style.
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GUCCI A/W 2018 COLLECTION
Cotton Oversized Shirt Michele has paired this outfit with an oversized striped shirt, the shirt began as a form of casualwear as its first layer was pressed up against the skin as a type of underwear (Sims 2011, p.135). From this point, the shirt symbolised a man’s status and wealth due to wearing fresh linen. The collar became visible during the Thirty Year War as shorter hairstyles came into fashion (Sims 2011, p.135). Michele puts a classic white and blue vertical stripe on the oversized shirt. Compared to a classic look, the shirt is untucked adding a more casual look. As from the Gucci website, the shirt is described as a “broken suit (Gucci 2019) as it is 70s inspired with a new modern fit, presented with sportswear. Michele has reinvented the classic business shirt with more of a relaxed piece, reinforced with the oversized fit.
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GUCCI A/W 2018 COLLECTION
Chinos The foundation of Chinos began with Khaki trousers as a casual alternative to jeans. The strongest associations of these are with cadet war uniforms. For example, British army soldiers in 1845 deliberately discoloured their white uniforms to cope with residual heat and camouflage (Sims 2011, p.135). After the war, these trousers became more common in civilian life as they were comfortable and functional. Michele has reworked the style from 1910 as many men began to wear cuffed trousers cut above the ankle to reveal the shoe, called the ‘American Style’ (Costantino 1997, p.24). This corresponds to the overall Major League Basketball and preppy look. Although the Gucci is known for adding special twists to an older trend, these chinos have no major change to them. This may mean that the style and neutral colour is so iconic that there was no need for change.
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GUCCI A/W 2018 COLLECTION
Single earring with Interlocking G
Jewellery in general was originally seen
The statement jewellery piece was still
as a symbol of “wealth, status and membership” (Sedycias, no date).
popular throughout the 70s and 80s during different music trends (Euse
Furthermore, it “reflected the economic and social changes that contributed to modifying female appearance” (Baudot 1999, p.80). Hoop earrings are a cultural style becoming popular in the “1960s during the Black Power movement” (Euse 2017). A large number of activists and artists such as Tina Turner and Angela Davis adopted an African-inspired look including natural hairstyles.
2017). Although hoop earrings have been a popular trend, Michele has accessorised his spring/summer look with a single gold hoop earring with the emblematic Gucci logo. The Gucci logo itself has been “reintroduced in a variety of forms and interpretations” (Gucci 2019) since the 1960s. The symbolism of gold parallels to the symbolism of jewellery as it implies affluence and wealth.
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GUCCI A/W 2018 COLLECTION
In addition to this, the single earring trend first originated from the ‘Punk’ genre, initially as a way to “freak out the civilians” (Johns 2014). It was worn by Musicians such as Rozz Williams and Saint Laurent muses like Wyatt and Fletcher Shears (Johns 2014). Back in the 19th and 20th Century, men wearing earrings were seen as effeminate, however, nowadays according to more recent culture it has “become a symbol of courage” (Sedycias, no date). This corresponds well to how Michele wanted his collection to be seen by a modern audience due to the acceptance more people have in society today.
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Overall, the Gucci A/W 2018 Collection looks like a classic, American, preppy with the ‘Chenille letter’, but also takes on a symbol of wealth and status shown through the shirt and gold hoop earring. Michele has taken a strong influence from past eras by referencing them throughout the collection. However, in some ways Michele has kept his Gucci brand through the green and red on the Bucket Bag. This shows that although Michele wants to branch out to meet contemporary trends, he still keeps the classic Gucci look throughout his pieces, even if it is just a small stripe, shown on the Ophidia GG Bucket Bag.
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S/S 2018
GUCCI S/S 2018 COLLECTION
Icy Blue Shell Suit The second outfit I am analysing is taken from the Spring Summer 2018 Collection. Although the outfit contains only a few pieces, the striking ice blue ‘Shell Suit’ constructs the main body of the runway look. Sportswear became popular in the 70s due to the rise of new industries focused on leisure. Less money were spent on clothes (Constantino 1997, p.120), therefore the nylon fabric created a loose and ageless look. (Ewing 1992, p.284) “The trend for the full tracksuit has seen another fundamental shift in attitudes in the 1990s” (Ewing 1992, p.284). The most popular styles were brightly coloured tracksuits in a crinkly fabric which appealed to a large demographic of people. PAGE 12
GUCCI S/S 2018 COLLECTION
Gucci’s take on the originally fundamental ‘Shell Suit’ includes trimmed ice blue shoulders with sequined droplets and crystalstudded flames. From the 17th and 18th century, sequins displayed “wealth in places like Egypt, India and Peru” (Spivack 2012) and were intended to “ward of evil spirits” (Spivack 2012). More recently, rhinestones have been worn by Michael Jackson and Elton John as statement pieces. As this collection is based on extravagant 80s fashion and 70s Elton John “glam rock stage clothes” (Vogue 2017), it makes sense that normal functional clothing takes on such retro embellishments. Especially with the elasticated cuffs, chunky white zip and logo ribbon sleeves. The Gucci Logo reworked into the distinctly retro lettering that recalled Sega’s futuristic font” (Pithers 2017) links back to the 90s through its Nintendo red colour scheme. This resurgence of large logos has been reintroduced into fashion trends today, it is a symbol of loyalty to a brand. The combination of sportswear and delicacy from the embellishments fits into the trend of ‘sport couture’.
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GUCCI S/S 2018 COLLECTION
White Crystal Studded Loafers
The original loafer came in the 1930s with the focus on comfort and leisure (Sims 2011, p.89). G. H. Bass added a thicker sole for the US market to which made the style more sturdier and dressier. (Sims 2011, p.89). In recent years, the loafer has been worn by famous men such as Michael Jackson and James Dean, but were mostly worn among subcultures in Europe. Michele has re-worked the classic loafer with large diamantes down the front of the shoe. These embellishments along with a higher heel corresponds to Elton John’s glam outfits in the 70s from which the collection was inspired by. The contrasting white leather could potentially link to the white shoe trend normally seen in trainers more recently, based on a 90s style. In addition to this, the loafer is most known for being a men’s shoe, however, Michele has put this outfit on Alina Pavlushova, a female model, challenging the masculine stereotype.
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GUCCI S/S 2018 COLLECTION
Off-White Rectangular Sunglasses
Michele accessorises the outfit with white square-framed oversized glasses with a black
The popularity of sunglasses sustained to the 70s as the accessory became a symbol of
tinted lens. The oversized glasses trend became a statement piece
experimentation through the types of lenses. Gucci’s
after the 1960s when large glasses came into fashion
rectangular lenses juxtaposes with the gold Gucci logo on the
(Cohen 2014). Fashion icons such as Jacqueline Kennedy and Princess Diana wore huge “bugeyed” and square shaped glasses this which influenced the trend further.
side of the glasses which connote to social status and wealth most common in the 80s. (Moore, 2015, p151) This corresponds to the overall look with the 80s style ‘Shell Suit’. PAGE 15
GUCCI S/S 2018 COLLECTION
Overall, the Gucci S/S 2018 Collection references major eras of fashion trends within the 60s, 70s and 80s. From this, designer brands such as Gucci use past trends as inspiration for their current collections and proves that they respect the origins of the garments
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CONCLUSION Both outfits in the Gucci collection include multiple characteristics from past fashion trends which have been re-introduced and re-interpreted by Michele. He has also ensured that he pushes boundaries to “create a new personality and identity within� (Gucci 2018) the reconstruction of fabrics and materials. Although he intends to create a new personality, the garments still embody old trends whilst fitting with the Gucci brand as a whole. Changes in trends and consumer tastes have allowed these past trends to become re-introduced in the 21st century.
REFERENCES Baudot, F. 1999. A Century of Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Casely-Hayford, A. 2018. Baby Dragons, Snakes and Severed Heads Inside Gucci’s AW18 Operating Theatre. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/2018/02/189922/gucci-fall-2018-show Cohen, L. 2014. Stay Shady: The History of Sunglasses. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/advice/a9907/history-of-sunglasses/ Costantino, M. 1997. Men’s Fashion in the Twentieth Century: from frock coats to intelligent fibres. London: BT Batsford Euse, E. 2017. Who Owns Hoop Earrings? [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/j5mqyy/who-owns-hoop-earrings Ewing, E. 1992. History of Twentieth Century Fashion. London: Batsford Gucci. 2019. Cotton Oversize Shirt. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/men/mens-ready-to-wear/mens-dress-shirts-sportsshirts/mens-formal-shirts/cotton-oversize-shirt-p539707Z372L4421?position=3&listName=SearchResultGridComponent&categoryPath=Men/Me ns-Ready-To-Wear/Mens-Dress-Shirts-Sports-Shirts/Mens-Formal-Shirts Gucci. 2019. Ophidia GG bucket bag. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/women/womens-handbags/womens-shoulderbags/womens-bucket-hobo-bags/ophidia-gg-bucket-bag-p54045796I3T8745?listName=LookDetailsPage&position=2 Gucci. 2019. Single earring with Interlocking G. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/jewelry-watches/fine-jewelry/fine-jewelry-forwomen/single-earring-with-interlocking-g-p542259J85008000?listName=LookDetailsPage&position=4 Jasman, A. 2018. Gucci x Major League Baseball: The collaboration you couldn’t have possible foreseen. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://esquiresg.com/features/gucci-x-major-league-baseball-mlb-fall-winter-2018-fw18the-collaboration-you-couldnt-have-possibly-foreseen/ Johns, J. 2014. How did the Single Earring Trend Get So Big? The Punk Boys of Brooklyn Rocked it First. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/article/single-earring-trend-brooklyn-punk
Moore, J. 2015. Fashion Fads Through American History: Fitting Clothes into Context. ABCCLIO Mower, S. 2017. Spring 2018 Ready-To-Wear. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci Pithers, E. 2017. Why The Shell Suit Is The Most-Grammed Look On The Gucci Catwalk. . [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/guccispring-summer-2018-catwalk-key-look Sedycias, R. 2019. Jewelry – The Symbol of Status and Wealth. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.streetdirectory.com/travel_guide/61267/jewelry/jewelry___the_symbol_of_status_ and_wealth.html Sims, J. 2011. Icons of Men’s Style. London: Laurence King Spivack, E. 2012. A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-ofsequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ Victoria and Albert Museum. 1984. Four Hundred Years of Fashion. London: Victoria and albert Museum in association with W. Collins. Vogue. 2019. Collections Fall Winter 2018-19 Gucci. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/collections-fall-winter-201819/gucci?refresh_ce= Vogue. 2019. Spring Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Gucci. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/spring-summer-2018-readyto-wear/gucci
ILLUSTRATIONS Cohen. 2014. Stay Shady: The History of Sunglasses. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/advice/a9907/history-of-sunglasses/ Epochs. 2019. A Guide to Going Wide. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://epochs.co/articles/a-guide-to-going-wide Gentleman’s Gazette. 2016. Khakis and Chinos. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/khaki-pants-chinos-trousers/ Gucci. 2019. Cotton Oversize Shirt. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/men/mens-ready-to-wear/mens-dress-shirts-sportsshirts/mens-formal-shirts/cotton-oversize-shirt-p539707Z372L4421?position=3&listName=SearchResultGridComponent&categoryPath=Men/Me ns-Ready-To-Wear/Mens-Dress-Shirts-Sports-Shirts/Mens-Formal-Shirts Gucci. 2018. The Poetic Act of Creation. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/pt/en_gb/st/stories/runway/article/women-men-spring-summerfashion-show-2018-details Gucci. 2019. Men’s jacket with NY Yankees patch. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/men/mens-ready-to-wear/menssweaters-cardigans/mens-cardigans/mens-jacket-with-ny-yankees-patch-p536324X9Z404045?listName=LookDetailsPage&position=1 Gucci. 2019. Ophidia GG bucket bag. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/women/womens-handbags/womens-shoulderbags/womens-bucket-hobo-bags/ophidia-gg-bucket-bag-p54045796I3T8745?listName=LookDetailsPage&position=2 Gucci. 2019. Single earring with Interlocking G. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/jewelry-watches/fine-jewelry/fine-jewelry-forwomen/single-earring-with-interlocking-g-p542259J85008000?listName=LookDetailsPage&position=4 Gucci. 2019. Spring Summer 2018 Fashion Show. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/runway/article/women-men-springsummer-fashion-show-2018-gallery Haddad, H. 2018. Everything You Need To Know About Gucci’s Fall 2018 Show. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.harpersbazaar.com.sg/fashion/fashion-news-trends/gucci-fall-2018-show/
HYPETERNdesigns. 2019. Gucci Guccy Sega Inspired Logo Vector Art. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/604696011/gucci-guccysega-inspired-logo-vector Marie Claire. 2019. Every Must-See Moment From Gucci’s Milan Fashion Week Extravaganza. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.marieclaire.com.au/guccishow-milan-fashion-week-spring-summer-2018 Patos, R. 2018. Gucci Continues Its SEGA-Inspired Obsession With New Rhyton Silhouette. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://hypebeast.com/2018/7/guccirhyton-fall-winter-2018-sega-black-release Pinterest. 2019. Discover Ideas About American School Uniforms. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/483503709992117190/ Pinterest.2019. Discover Ideas About Letter-man Sweaters. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/519813981967626762/ Pithers, E. 2017. Why The Shell Suit Is The Most-Grammed Look On The Gucci Catwalk. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/guccispring-summer-2018-catwalk-key-look Simply Eighties. 2019. 80s Shell Suits. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.simplyeighties.com/80s-shell-suits.php#.XMLsri2ZNN1 SSENSE. 2018. Gucci Off-White Rectangular Sunglasses. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.ssense.com/en-gb/men/product/gucci/off-white-rectangularsunglasses/2865928?utm_source=3824485&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=11081012&utm_ content=United%20Kingdom%20GBP%20Product%20Catalog%20%28English%29&cjevent=63 09496e67b511e9815d00e60a18050e Vogue. 2018. Look 27. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-towear/gucci/slideshow/collection#27 Young, S. 2018. Eighties Shell Suits Are Back For 2018. [Online]. [Accessed 10 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/eighties-shell-suit-back2018-fashion-trend-gucci-valentino-prada-a8409961.html