THE GOLDFIELDS

Good as gold

The legacy of Victoria’s gold rush is alive and well in these charming country towns, from museums and architecture to a veritable treasure trove of dining experiences

Catch major exhibitions at some of Australia’s best regional art galleries and join in the fun at local festivals. Dine out at bustling cafes and fine dining restaurants, sample varietals at cellar doors, or try some retail therapy at specialty shops, markets and boutiques across the region. Continue your adventure by hitting the tracks and trails at nearby lakes, national parks and nature reserves.

EAT & DRINK In Ballarat, enjoy sensational Spanish cuisine including wine, tapas and deli treats at Meigas (33 Armstrong Street North, Ballarat), or feast on delicious Ethiopian fare at Cafe Merkama (30A Doveton Street, Ballarat). For a hint of sophistication, head to Masons of Bendigo, or take one of their Market to Paddock to Plate tours (masonsofbendigo.com.au). Not far away, Percy and Percy is a Melbourne-style cafe with a seasonal menu and inviting outdoor space named after the former owners of the repurposed grocery store it occupies (percyandpercy.com.au). There are also a host of wineries that oenophiles won’t want to miss, including Heathcote Winery, Balgownie Estate in Yarra Glen and Bridgewater on Loddon’s Water Wheel Vineyards, to name just a few.

SEE & DO One of Australia’s most popular tourist attractions, Sovereign Hill brings Australia’s 1850s gold rush

to life with street theatre, costumed characters, and the chance to pan for gold (sovereignhill.com.au). Also in Ballarat, the Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka (MADE) uses the latest interactive technology to the history of democracy to life (made.org). In Bendigo, Central Deborah Gold Mine reveals the town’s golden heritage with a unique range of underground experiences (central-deborah.com). Those who prefer to stay above ground can explore acres of stunning botanical gardens in Ballarat, Bendigo and Castlemaine. Art lovers will delight in the riches of the goldfields, including Australia’s oldest and largest regional gallery, the Art Gallery of Ballarat (artgalleryofballarat.com.au), as well as noteworthy galleries in Bendigo (bendigoartgallery.com.au) and Castlemaine (castlemainegallery.com). You’ll also find quaint villages packed with quirky stores, arts and crafts, engaging theatre and natural wonders. DV

For more information, or to plan your trip, go to visitballarat.com.au, bendigotourism.com or maldoncastlemaine.com.au

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Castlemaine Art Gallery, Castlemaine; Balgownie Estate Cellar Door; Alexandra Fountain Bendigo; Masons of Bendigo. OPPOSITE: Sovereign Hill.

Bendigo Boomtown

This regional gem in central Victoria is a treasure trove of gold rush history, culture and colonial architecture, Stephanie Williams writes

The gold might have all but gone but there are still good times to be had in the elegant and historic regional centre of Bendigo. Its grand buildings, Chinese heritage and living museums are a visible legacy of the gold rush that transformed the region in the 1850s and 60s. Bendigo’s arts scene is thriving with major and independent galleries, workshops and theatres. The gold rush wealth funded many fine buildings, including Bendigo Town Hall, the restored Alexandra Fountain, the magnificent former post office and law courts. Stroll through the broad boulevards and tree-lined streets or call in to one of the quality wineries nearby to get a true taste of the Bendigo terroir, or the Heathcote region just south of Bendigo which is known for its outstanding shiraz. For a taste of modern Bendigo architecture and design, check into the Schaller Studio, inspired by the working studio of contemporary Australian artist Mark Schaller.

CULTURE FIX Walk along View Street to discover Bendigo’s vibrant arts precinct. Be sure to visit the Bendigo Art Gallery. First opened in 1887, it’s one of the best art galleries in regional Australia with dynamic global exhibitions and a permanent collection dating back to the gold rush (bendigoartgallery.com.au). Explore smaller galleries such as the Post Office Gallery and antique shops like Valentine’s Antique Gallery

(valentinesantiques.com). Catch a show at the elegant Capital Theatre, opened in 1873 or for contemporaryflavoured entertainment (thecapital.com.au), the new Ulumbarra Theatre in the grounds of the old Sandhurst Gaol (ulumbarratheatre.com.au). The Schaller Studio hosts artisan markets and other events in its landscaped gardens.

LIVE A MINER’S LIFE Don a hard hat and explore the hidden underground tunnels of a real gold mine that operated during the gold rush at Central Deborah Gold Mine. The mine operated from 1939 to 1954 and extracted almost one tonne of gold in that time. That’s about AUD $46 million in today’s prices. You can descend to 228 metres and see first-hand how the gold was mined amid such harsh conditions (central-deborah.com).

VISIT AN 1850S JOSS HOUSE When gold was discovered in Bendigo in 1851, Chinese miners flocked to make their fortune and in the 1870s a temple was constructed for the miners’ spiritual wellbeing. Standing for more than a century, the Bendigo Joss House Temple is one of the few remaining buildings of its type in Australia. The distinctive red building is dedicated to Guan-Di (Kwan Gong), the god of war and prosperity, and is open to visitors daily between 11am and 3pm (bendigojosshouse.com). The Golden Dragon Museum is a hub of Chinese cultural activity in Australia, where the fascinating connection between Chinese miners and rural Bendigo comes to life. Visit the gardens modelled on Beijing’s Imperial Palace and see the work of traditional artisans (goldendragonmuseum.org).

RIDE THE TALKING TRAM Trams began operating in Bendigo in 1890 and continued to operate until 1972. Luckily the tracks, trams and depot were preserved and have morphed into the Bendigo Tramways Talking Tram, which takes visitors on an historic tour of Bendigo. There are a number of different touring trams, such as the Vintage Talking Tram, the Anzac Centenary Tram, and the Blues Tram complete with a live blues band on board (bendigotramways.com).

GET BEHIND THE WHEEL Australia’s oldest working pottery, Bendigo Pottery has been turning out high quality ceramics such as clay pipes, roof tiles, bricks and tableware for more than 150 years. See the most significant collection of ceramic wood-fired kilns left in the world and visit the Interpretive Museum, a converted kiln itself. Here you’ll learn about the techniques the potters and kiln workers used to create the renowned pottery and see how it is produced today (bendigopottery.com.au).

DISCOVER ABORIGINAL STORIES Long before the Chinese and Europeans came to Bendigo, the indigenous Jaara Jaara people lived on the land where gold was discovered. You can celebrate with descendents of the Jaara Jaara during July’s Naidoc Week festivities. Witness the flag raising ceremony to mark the start of the week, which increases awareness of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture, or see fascinating Jaara Jaara rock wells on the nearby Eureka Reef walk.

NATURE FIX When you’re done with history, relax in one of the city’s beautiful parks, visit a local winery like the well established Balgownie Estate (balgownieestatewines.com.au) or cycle the 65-kilometre Bendigo Bushland Trail past dazzling flowers, abundant wildlife and famous heritage buildings. DV

Getting there

The trip from Melbourne to Bendigo takes just under two hours either by car or on a VLine train from Southern Cross Station (vline.com.au). If driving, you can break the trip in pretty Kyneton village.