52 Degrees and Above: A Guide to the Shores of the Baltic Sea

52 Degrees and above

T

o mark the 25th anniversary of the Council of the Baltic Sea States, we map the contemporary landscape of our region, taking you on a journey through all our capitals and introduce you to some of the locals who call this corner of the earth home.

Travelling north from 52 degrees to 65 degrees, this book offers places to stay on any budget, where to grab a coffee, what to see and where to dine, as well as where join the locals for a drink afterhours.

ËšN

ËšN 52 Degrees and above

T

he Council of the Baltic Sea States is an intergovernmental organisation established in 1992 to strengthen dialogue between the countries of the Baltic Region. Currently marking 25th years of cooperation the organisation endeavours to build trust and frameworks that create a sustainable and resilient future.

The member States of the Council are Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Germany, Iceland, Latvia, Lithuania, Norway, Poland, Russia and Sweden alongside the European Union.

The Council implements its work through the three priority areas of Regional Identity, Sustainable & Prosperous Region and Safe & Secure Region, with an international secretariat based in Stockholm.

Publication CBSS Secretariat 2017 CBSS Homepage www.cbss.org CBSS Twitter @CBSSsecretariat CBSS Facebook @CBSSpage

a travel guide to the shores of the baltic sea and beyond

A PUBLICATION TO MARK THE 25th ANNIVERSARY OF THE COUNCIL OF THE BALTIC SEA STATES

“The water connects us,

4

T

he contemporary space we inhibit is not static. In the light of the 25 years since the Council of the Baltic Sea States was established, the Baltic Sea Region has grown and shifted. The region has changed, yet stayed the same. It has become closer and farther apart - much like the waves that roll up on the shores of the sea we share.

There is a sense and appreciation that comes from living in a place that enjoys short but light summers, tempered by long and dark winters. That essence engenders a certain can do attitude. The somewhat “harshness” of the weather mixed with our past has entrenched within us a feeling that some things must get done and that whatever happens, we must continue moving forward.

So on our 25th anniversary instead of looking backwards, we look to the future. We map the contemporary landscape of our region, taking you on a journey through all our capitals, introducing you to some of the locals, who call this corner of the earth home, and hear what they have to say about their hometowns.

The Baltic Sea Region is a special place where all capitals are located above 52° North. The region spans from Reykjavik to Moscow, from the coastline to the mountain ranges. Most communities of the vast swathes of the European Plain didn’t settle this far North and this makes our

but culture unites us.�

region particular. The wind is bracing. The water freezes.

This Northernness lends itself to a certain connection. The driftwood from the tall spruce, pines and birch, of the taiga currents, washing up on the shores further south.

In this guide we make the journey from 52 degrees to 65 degrees up north (with a little sidetrack to Zakopane further south and Lofoten further north). Here we have collected a number of choices that capture at this very point in time what represents the potential of the region – to present the region as a whole, in a travel guide that has not grouped these countries together before. Here you coffee during your time in one of the towns or cities, what to see if you have some spare moments and where to dine if you want to experience the culinary delights of our region, as well as join the locals for a drink afterhours.

5

table of contents

Denmark 8

Estonia 34

Finland 56

Germany 76

Iceland 108

Latvia 132

Lithuania 152

Norway 172

Poland 194

Russia 216

Sweden 248

denmark

55.6761° N Capital: Copenhagen

D

enmark´s rolling plains of low-lying pastures are edged with sand swept beaches of dunes and heathland. The main peninsula of Jutland is tipped by the artists haven Skagen, with its horizon hues and painterly coastal landscapes. The archipelago, and larger islands of Fyn and Sjælland, lean eastwards towards the outer island of Bornholm in the Baltic Sea. The dramatic meeting of waves off the Skagerrak strait and the Kattegat, adjoining to the Baltic, punctuate the north and have wrecked many a ship. Susceptible to the low pressure from the Atlantic, the weather can be unstable and the grey overcast sky, portrayed in recent Danish television exports, is reminiscent of a darker image of Copenhagen. Yet away from the movie scenes and under brighter skies, the Danish capital is known for its bustling cultural scene and nightlife, with the outside world increasingly looking towards Denmark for lessons in hygge. An atmosphere, a sense of belonging and contentment in one´s surroundings, a happiness away from the NorN take you to a geography and topography that could not be more different from continental Denmark. Across the Atlantic, to the west lie the Faroe Islands, part of the Danish realm alongside Greenland. We focus on the nearer of the two, with its steep cliffs offering a height and perspective not available on the mainland.

11

Copenhagen Mikkel Marcker Stubgaard

C

openhagen is booming, with thousands of people moving to the city each year. This puts pressure on space and property prices, but also adds to the city’s vitality, with lots of new venues, restaurants, bars and urban spaces opening up. For an architect there is a lot going on with many new city developments like Carlsberg, Nordhavn, Ørestad etc.

Nowhere seems to beat Copenhagen, when it comes to life quality and the fact that you can bike around everywhere in the city. For breakfast I tend to go to Granola, bordering neighbourhoods Frederiksberg and Vesterbro. This little gem on the small ‘French’ street Værnedamsvej with its old seems to go out of fashion and is the perfect place for a quick breakfast or to meet old friends. Try the Cocotte or the Croque Madame, or to cure a hangover a ginger shot and a classic milkshake does the trick. Bonus info: Further

Copenhagen city centre has lots of new good restaurants and bars coming and going. However, the centrally located seafood restaurant Fishmarket, just off Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn and the Royal Theatre, is a place I keep returning half circle table in the corner overlooking the restaurant. ing myself and my friends, I go for the ‘Plateau Fruit de Mer, Royale’ - the name speaks for itself!

restaurant and bar llama, which is a great place for South American food with a Nordic touch. I tend to make my own tapas menus by ordering a lot of different starters to share with friends while having great cocktails.

Granola:

www.granola.dk Café Viggo:

French restaurant Café Viggo, cozy wine and tapas bar Falernum and even the pet shop ‘Boutique Le Chic Dog’ run by the sweet French vet Geneviéve.

www.cafeviggo.com Falernum:

www.falernum.dk Westmarket:

Coming home from work, ‘Westmarket’ with its atmosphere is perfect for a casual dinner and drinks if you are in a hurry, or simply to hang out. This new unpretentious Vesterbro version of the more upmarket Torvehallerne (food halls at ‘Nørreport’ in the city centre), offers a mix of

www.westmarket.dk Torvehallerne:

www.torvehallernekbh.dk Fishmarket:

www.fishmarket.dk llama:

You can order food at one food stall and eat it either there or at one of the long common tables, or bring it to the small bars, where you sit and eat while trying mini brewery beers from around the world.

www.llamarestaurant.dk

MIKKEL MARCKER STUBGAARD IS AN ARCHITECT AT BJARKE INGELS GROUP (BIG) IN COPENHAGEN. ORIGINALLY BORN IN COPENHAGEN, BUT BROUGHT UP IN NORTHERN JUTLAND, HE RETURNED TO STUDY IN COPENHAGEN IN 1993.

HE HAS LIVED IN LONDON, BERLIN AND NEW YORK, BUT THERE IS NO PLACE LIKE HOME.

where to stay? copenhagen

Hotel SP 34 14

SANKT PEDERS STRÆDE 34, COPENHAGEN www.brochner-hotels.dk/da/vores-hoteller/hotel-sp34

L

ocated in the Latin Quarter, the Hotel SP 34 spans the options from cozy single rooms to the loft suites with balcony views over Copenhagen. The use of natural light and cool grey tones blends with the wooden details to bring an airiness to the stay. The organic breakfast and special port wine selection for the evening makes your time at Hotel SP 34 that little extra. The hotel has a roof terrace for the spring and summer and there is even a cinema.

Urban House COLBJĂ˜RNSENSGADE 11, COPENHAGEN www.urbanhouse.me

U

rban House is a hotel-hostel hybrid in the Vesterbro district of Copenhagen. The Urban bar has a happy hour and live music. There is a bike shop (naturally), resident tattoo artists and numerous events. The rooms are bright and give the possibility to book smaller rooms for singles, couples or the family, as well as the larger dorms for a more social stay.

Hotel Alexandra H. C. ANDERSENS BLVD. 8, COPENHAGEN www.hotelalexandra.dk

D

ating back to the 1880s with rooms dedicated to different Danish designers like Grethe Jalk, Nanna Ditzel and Hans J Wegner there is something for everyone´s style among the Danish design inventory. High ceilinged, spacious rooms with adequate lounge and desk space create a feeling of home. The epitome of hygge.

15

where to eat? copenhagen

Geranium PER HENRIK LINGS ALLÉ 4, COPENHAGEN www.geranium.dk/en

16

I

nspired by nature, Chef Rasmus Kofoed takes diners on a culinary discovery of his native homeland focusing on organic and biodynamic ingredients when possible. The restaurant is located on the 8th in Ă˜sterbro. Awarded three stars in the Michelin Guide in 2016, the menus change seasonally where the chef elevates tures and unique components.

The Standard: Almanak & Studio HAVNEGADE 44, COPENHAGEN www.thestandardcph.dk

T

he stunning art deco facade of pale green hue on the waterfront of the København Kanal lays out the view of Christianhavn before you. The building that Kristoffer Nyrop Varming designed in 1937 hosts a jazz club, the Almanak and a 60-metre summer terrace, where you can sample limfjords oysters, and lastly Studio. Torsten Vilgaard is the Head Chef behind the teams Studio experience tasting menu, combined with wine pairings with Danish lamb mixed with

17

Manfreds JÆGERSBORGGADE 40, COPENHAGEN www.manfreds.dk/en

C

hristian Puglisi´s restaurant focuses on Danish produce and feels authentic and rustic, with cutlery coming in brown paper bags and the unpolished wooden furniture aligning with the humble vegetables. The kale and beetroots of the region are treated with respect and everyone talks about the beef tartare.

Papirøen (Paper Island): Copenhagen Street Food Warehouse 7&8 TRANGRAVSVEJ 14, COPENHAGEN www.copenhagenstreetfood.dk/en 18

P

apirøen can be reached by crossing over the new bridge for pedestrians and cyclists, Inderhavnsbroen, which connects Nyhavn and Christianshaven, with a beautiful view to the Operahouse and the Royal Palace. Papirøen hosts Copenhagen Street Food market, pop-up cafes and ping-pong bars and the contemporary gallery Copenhagen Contemporary. At the end of 2017 the Street Food Market will move to an old warehouse "Storms Pakhus" in Odense, where the focus will be on local produce.

Torvehallerne (Market) FREDERIKSBORGGADE 21, COPENHAGEN www.torvehallernekbh.dk

T

he black metal structures of the two glass covered market areas, on a cobbled square by Nørreport Station, were designed by architect Hans Hagens. Opened in autumn 2011, a range of around 80 stalls and stores within have a coffee or freshly made juice and pick up a spot of lunch. The seating outside is lovely on a warm sunny day.

where to have a coffee? copenhagen

Coffee Collective JÆGERSBORGGADE 57, COPENHAGEN www.coffeecollective.dk

T

he third edition addition to a coffee collective family, opened in July 2012, in a beautiful, old industrial building in Frederiksberg. A little city within the city of Copenhagen, the location is also the roastery. The relationship with the farmers is direct, so you know where the brew originates.

19

Møller Kaffe og Køkken NØRREBROGADE 160, COPENHAGEN www.kaffeogkoekken.dk

A

n excellent brunch place at Nørrebro, with strong coffee from a local roastery, organic milk, rye bread with avocado and ginger shots at a decent price.

Central Hotel and Café TULLINSGADE 1, COPENHAGEN

T

his smallest hotel in Copenhagen & the little coffeecellent and strong coffee. The hotel & café is owned by the same people as Granola on Vesterbro.

Café Atelier September GOTHERSGADE 30, COPENHAGEN www.cafeatelierseptember.com

A

esthetically pleasing café and boutique with your latte

connected arty bohemians. However, do not ask for soya or almond milk, here they only serve organic whole milk.

Frederik Bille Brahe keeps it simple.

where to drink? copenhagen

Duck and Cover DANNEBROGSGADE 6, COPENHAGEN www.duckandcoverbar.dk

W

ith furniture from the 50s and 60s and a splash of Danish aquavit, Duck and Cover´s wooden slated panels and soft lighting are reminiscent of a retro living room. The menu changes with the bartenders giving seasonal twists to the drinks. The warmth of the leather and wood materials gives a welcoming atmosphere.

21

Ruby NYBROGADE 10, COPENHAGEN www.rby.dk

22

A

speakeasy with an outdoor courtyard terrace by the canals. The place lacks pretension despite the upscale decor and location. At Ruby you are there for cocktails and drinks, no matter your age or persuasion. The bar was ranked number 34 on a top 50 best bar list in 2015. The owners are also behind Lidkoeb on Vesterbrogade - a former pharmaceuticals factory turned cocktail bar over three

Vedstranden 10 VED STRANDEN 10, COPENHAGEN www.vedstranden10.dk

S

ommelier Christain Nedergaard´s selection of natural wines and small producers give this wine bar a special touch. The location right by the canals makes this a perfect spot to spend an evening with a glass and a platter.

23

Jolene FLÆSKETORVET 81-85, COPENHAGEN www.facebook.com/JoleneBar

J

olene represents some of the roughness of Kødbyen, the meatpacking district of Copenhagen, which still retains an edge despite the many gourmet establishments moving into Kødbyen. Good dj’s, strong drinks and late nights.

what to see? copenhagen

Den BlĂĽ Planet JACOB FORTLINGSVEJ 1, KASTRUP www.denblaaplanet.dk/en

24

T

he National Aquarium of Denmark is stunning with its curved lobby and swirling architecture inspired by a whirlpool. The views of the Ă˜resund region beyond make for the Danish National Aquarium was opened in 2013 and outlines an extensive presentation of Northern lakes and seas with sections on creeks, streams, sea otter habitats to name a few, and even a Faroese bird cliff.

Royal Danish Playhouse SANKT ANNÆ PL. 36, COPENHAGEN www.kglteater.dk

25

D

esigned by Lundgaard and Tranberg, the building has won a RIBA European Award. Buttressing the Frederiksstaden neighbourhood and harbour front, the building gave the earlier Black Diamond a run for its money as the talked about building, when it opened in 2008. The building bour, makes for a visually alluring long suspended projection.

Københavns Havnebadet

T

he Copenhagen Harbour Baths consists of four outdoor bathing venues along the waterfronts of

Brygge in 2003, followed by Copencabana (more commonly known as Fisketorvet) and Svanemølle, with the newest inauguration at Sluseholmen in the south harbour in 2011. They are a must in summer, if you don´t make it out of the city to Kastrup Sea Bath (Kastrup Søbad) or Amager Beach park.

48h getaway?

faroe islands 62. 0079° N

26

T

he 18 islands of the Faroes are separated

and distinctive arĂŞtes of the highest mountain formations give way to swathes of green pasture in the valley below. The Faroese language is closely linked to written Icelandic and spoken dialects of western Norway. The islands lie 300km Northwest of Scotland, 430km south east of Iceland and 600km west of Norway. Self-governing since the Home Rule Act of 1948, the Faroe Islands are a semi-autonomous region, encompassed by the external sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark.

Hotel Føroyar 45 OYGGJARVEGUR, TÓRSHAVN www.hotelforoyar.fo

A

bove the capital, up on the hill above Tórshavn, sits the Hotel Føroyar, designed by Friis & Moltke A/S and opened in 1983. The elongated stepped building structure becomes one with the landscape, the turfed grass roofs subsuming the architecture into the hillside, only revealing the black outline of the eaves above the glass window panes of the rooms. The view from above the town looks directly onto the opposite island of Nólsoy and the panorama of the Faroese weather.

Gjáargarður Guesthouse DALAVEGUR 20, GJÓGV www.gjaargardur.fo

I

n the village of Gjógv, the Gjáargarður Guesthouse is the place to stay to begin to explore the north islands.

Gjógv, meaning cleft or gorge, is perched on the tip of Eysturoy, looking over to Kalsoy and further to Kunoy. The Guesthouse has a traditional turfed roof and striking red and black wooden detailing, offering a welcoming stay and familiarity. Gjógv is a short distance across the plateau to the two sea stacks Risin and Kellingin. Legend tells us that these rock formations were once giants turned to stone in the morning light, after a failed attempt to tow the Faroe islands towards Iceland.

27

Magenta Boutique Hotel JATNAVEGUR 31, MIÐVÁGUR, VAGAR ISLAND www.magenta.fo

M

arit Jóhansdóttur Magnussen has through sheer

in Miðvágur and taken the visitors back to the charm of 1950s interiors. The bay living room and the garden room are sumptuous and there are meeting room possibilities also alongside relaxation. You need to contact the hotel directly to check availability.

Koks Í GEILINI 13, 175 KIRKJUBØUR, STREYMOY www.koks.fo

28

S

ituated in new premises in the ethereal medievalism of the hamlet of Kirkjubøur, KOKS represents a fresh approach and negotiation to Faroese cooking. KOKS won the The Nordic Prize For Best Restaurant in the Nordic countries in 2014 - no small feat for a Faroese restaurant, and in After pioneering the new nordic cuisine on the Faroe islands under Leif Sørensen, KOKS now has a new head chef Poul Andrias Ziska, and the head sommelier Karin Virth has lead their team to new heights. The smoked langoustine, mahogany clams and sea urchin, horse mussel roe and kelp from the sea, effortlessly match the turnip, rhubarb, angelica and mutton of the land. A focus on local produce and the beauty of drying, fermenting, curing, pickling and smoking continues to prize seasonality and depth of palette.

Barbara Fish House GONGIN 4-6, TÓRSHAVN www.heimaihavnbarbara.one

T

convivial similarity of the Basque North Atlantic cul-

blues and whites cut into the rock to give a cosy atmosphere.

Ræst GONGIN 8, TÓRSHAVN www.raest.one

O

dedicated to fermented fare. Blood pancake on rye

lamb, stewed apple and rhubarb can all be sampled at Ræst, which means fermentation in Faroese. The experience is an unforgettable journey to days gone by and honed traditional preservation methods of available food stocks on the islands. A revival and re-evaluation of historical processes have opened the experience to the outside world.

29

Etika ÁARVEGUR 3, TÓRSHAVN www.etika.fo

S

lands grow slowly due to the cold temperature, giving vour unlike elsewhere. In between shopping at Gudrun & Gudrun or the Føroya Heimavirkisfelag for knitwear, Etika is the perfect place for lunch.

Áarstova 30

GONGIN 1, TÓRSHAVN www.aarstova.one

C

arefully chosen wines and Scottish ales, located in a historic building dating back to the 1600s down by the harbour. Literally the house by the brook. A bisque of langoustine, followed by a lamb broth and combined crispy lamb with beefcake, with Liquorice ice-cream is just the treatment after a long day of hiking through the wilderness and mists.

Café Fríða NÓLSOYAR PÁLSGØTA 7, KLAKSVÍK www.frida.fo

T

ake a drive through Norðoyatunnilin – an underwater tunnel, which connects you to the North Islands, and you will come to Klaksvík. The second largest community in the Faroe Islands, Kalsvik with around 5000 inhabitants is the administrative centre of the North. Café Fríða serves the best coffee in town and offers a cosy interior escape terrace overlooking the Föroya björ brewery and the harbour. The Faroese speciality platter is a must.

Sirkus GRÍMS KAMBANS GØTA 2, TÓRSHAVN www.facebook.com/sirkusfo

S

irkus offers a chance to meet the artists and locals of Tórshavn in the evening. Sunneva Háberg Eysturstein created the community in the Faroes in part to honour the original Sirkus bar, where she had worked earlier in Reysic, have a bite to eat or a drink in the intimate bar on the scene is small in the Faroe Islands, at one time or another everyone passes through Sirkus.

31

The Nordic House Norðurlandahúsið 32

14 NORÐARI RINGVEGUR, TÓRSHAVN www.nlh.fo

D

N narsdóttir from Iceland, the Nordic House opened in 1983 to strengthen the cooperation between the Faroe Islands and the broader Nordic region. The Nordic House is under the auspices of the Nordic Council of Ministers and provides a full programme of arts and culture all year round.

Displaying exhibitions, hosting events, screenings and concerts the house is one of the main venues in Tórshavn. The house delivers numerous options across the different spaces and halls to connect with Faroese and Nordic culture.

Saksunar Kirkja

T

he village of Saksun rests above the Pollurin tidal lagoon, which can be seen from the stone church above.

The open sea mouth can be reached along the black sand at low tide and can be approached from the western side of the Dalá river. Be careful not get trapped by the tide.

33

Mykines Island

T

he westerly point of the Faroe Islands, Mykines is only accessible by boat, which sometimes due to the unpredictability of the weather and the peculiarity of the ocean mood is not able to dock. Helicopter is another possibility, but the island can be cut off for periods of time simply because of the storm forecast. This adds to the sense of intrepid remoteness. The arching stunning precipitous cliffs and the gannets who nest there.

Estonia

59.4370° N Capital: Tallinn

E

stonia is a Nordic country with a pagan heart and an eye on the future. After years of developing a country brand which would

tech-savvy, nature-focused and future-looking destination. Estonians have always held a close connection to the nature that surrounds them: forests cover half the land, with the sea wrapping around more than 3000 km of coastline, braced by the cool Baltic winds. This has entrenched in Estonians a humble approach to nature and an appreciation for solitude & simplicity. In modern times these values are Hence one can become an Estonian e-resident 3 minutes and do it all via one of the public Northern ingredients and changing seasons, as well as a cultural scene bubbling under the radar, Estonia has something for the young & the restless, as well as those looking for a break in nature away from the crowds.

37

Tallinn Andreas Kask

W

night out, head to Lekker. A line-up of bookings from near and far, great sound system, friendly crowds, and in true Tallinn fashion, open until very late. For pure New York vibes, Frank Underground, a little underground cocktail bar, is the place. It gets busy and crowded, but the people are friendly and the bar service is fast. Frank serves the best negronis in town, and they have Bistro Frank next door if you’re craving some late night snacks. Paar Veini is a wine bar unlike any other. It is mostly known for its loud and rowdy resident nights, I have a resident night there as well with my friends called Mahagon, where we play old school house, disco, italo and soul classics, always a good time. Another spot is EKKM - the acronym of the Contemporary Art Museum Estonia. It was established as a DIY initiative and and artist run spaces. During the weekends it doubles as a bar and music venue.

For things to see around town I would recommend Rotermanni Quarter. Its a former industrial district built in the 19th century. The buildings have been renovated, turning the neighbourhood into an interesting urban space. The sophisticated architecture is home to Scandinavian style cafes and restaurants. Pop into FLAMM and RØST, and take a moment to explore the concept store Sfäär. For streetwear, Reede is the place to be. Telliskivi Loomelinnak on the other hand is kind of like the Hackney of Tallinn. Its home to bars, cafes, bakeries, restaurants, shops and a lot of young creamanifests itself at its worst, with the new swallowing up the old. A stroll around the block is a must if you take an interest in urban planning.

In terms of food, Burger Box & Põhjala Brewery Bar is a local favourite for burgers & beer. These two are connected through a hole in the wall, so one could easily enjoy a pulled pork burger & kimchi fries with some delish local beer. For vegan food V is a restaurant which will leave everyone hapyoung head chef Mikk Mägi is devoted to pushing ahead with veggie food culture and has a few new tricks up his sleeve every week. Noodle Box is also a vegan delight. A noodle bar dishing out Asian fare. Good food, best place! Kolm Sibulat & Moon are two sibling restaurants, which are somewhere in between the worlds of fast and slow food. They will treat you right no matter if it’s brunch, lunch or dinner. Moon is the pioneer of modern Russian cuisine, while Kolm Sibulat is world food with a Russian twist, “fusion-confusion” in outdoor area is the real gem here. Located in Kultuurikatel, which is a limestone building that used to be a power station’s boiler room and where the cult movie "Stalker" was you’re craving for an authentic, carefully crafted sourdough pizza is Kaja Pizza Köök. It is a local spot with a lot of heart and soul.

Lekker: www.lekker.bar Frank Underground: www.frankbistro.ee Paar Veini: www.paarveini.ee EKKM: www.ekkm.ee Burger Box & Põhjala Brewery Bar: www.speakeasy.ee V: www.veganrestoran.ee Noodle Box: Telliskivi 24, Tallinn Kolm Sibulat: www.kolmsibulat.eu Moon: www.restoranmoon.ee Korsten: www.korstenresto.ee Kaja Pizza Köök: www.kajapizza.ee

39

ANDREAS KASK IS A CREATIVE PRODUCER AT NAFTA FILMS, RUNS THE CLUB LEKKER TOGETHER WITH HIS FRIENDS, IS INVOLVED IN ORGANISING THE ELECTRONIC MUSIC FESTIVAL INTO THE VALLEY, AND PRODUCES MUSIC & PLAYS RECORDS U N D E R T H E N A M E K A S K ( SOUNDCLOUD.COM/KAZK) .

where to stay?

Tallinn

Three Sisters PIKK71/TOLLI 2, TALLINN www.3s.ee

40

I

f you’re looking for medieval charm with a modern twist, then the Three Sisters boutique hotel, tucked away on the cobbled streets of Tallinn Old Town, should be your destination. Its 5-star luxury is combined perfectly with historical features, preserved from the 14th century and giving each room a unique shape and feel. Be sure to take a stroll through the small side-streets of Old Town and head over to Leib Resto & Aed for dinner.

Fat Margaret´s Hostel PÕHJA PUIESTEE 27, TALLINN www.fatmargarets.ee

L

ocated at the gate of the famous watchtower ”Fat Margaret”, on the edge of the Old Town. While the low-cost price tag and no-frills interiors could be considered to make this a ”budget stay” option for travellers, Fat Margaret’s hostel has a few tricks up its sleeve. Built in 1913, in late art nouveau style, the buildings current somewhat modest The hostel facilities include a fully-equipped modern kitchen

palace hotel VABADUSE VÄLJAK 3, TALLINN www.palace.tallinnhotels.ee

F

public chic”. While the building carries functionalist and

each room is equipped with an iPad connected to different functions for the room, as well as a soundsystem, which extends to the bathroom. Make sure to take advantage of the pool and sauna in the hotel, and invest some time in enjoying the superior breakfast, complete with on demand omelettes and pancakes. After breakfast head down to the modern central square of Tallinn – Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square), which the hotel overlooks. The square is centred around the famous glow-in-the-dark Freedom Monument buildings, as well as the Estonian design shop Nu Nordik.

41

where to eat?

Tallinn

noa chef’s hall RANNA TEE 3, TALLINN www.noaresto.ee

42

N

oa’s Chef Hall has been voted the best restaurant in Estonia for the year 2017, making history in the propassed the best restaurant in Finland according to the Nordic White Guide 2017. (For the ever-competitive neighbouring countries, this comes as quite a victory of course).

Set in the stunning coastline surroundings outside Tallinn city centre, the restaurant’s grand interior overlooks the city tion menus showcase the best of Estonian ingredients and offer something for “herbivores” and “omnivores” alike.

restaurant Ö MERE PST 6E, TALLINN www.restoran-o.ee

T

he letter Ö symbolizes many things. While in Swedish the letter stands for “an island”, in Estonian the letter is symbolic to one island in particular – Saaremaa. Here the local dialect is unique compared to the rest of Estonia and the letter “Ö” has a special standing. The restaurant “Ö” has a special connection to the island Saaremaa. Its food is inspired by Nordic nature, unpredictable seasons, the sea, dark forests and forgotten methods. The dishes convey a playful and almost magical feeling, with each course carrying with them their own story. The strong connection to nature terior- a perfect mixture of Estonian paganism and metropolitan glamour.

43

pegasus HARJU 1, TALLINN www.restoranpegasus.ee

44

L

ocated in the Estonian Writers House in the Old Town, Pegasus offers a combination of old school intellectual and artistic modernism. With its futuristic 1960s inspired decor and a simple Nordic menu, it’s a perfect spot for meeting friends for a lunch around town or an afternoon cocktail.

The literary theme of the building extends to the restaurant, with all the checks delivered wrapped in Estonian literary classics.

rataskaevu 16 RATASKAEVU 16, TALLINN www.rataskaevu16.ee 45

R

ataskaevu 16 is one of the most popular spots for dinner in Tallinn at the moment. Its no-nonsense menu combines local ingredients with a worldly touch and its minimalist interior gives central stage to the food. Its reputation for outstanding food, friendly service, great prices and central location make reservations a must. Check out also their new and smaller location extension- Väike Rataskaevu 16 on Niguliste 6.

f-hoone TELLISKIVI 60, TALLINN www.fhoone.ee

B

y now F-hoone has become somewhat of a staple location on the Tallinnn scene. Set in an old industrial brick building, its menu feels simple, fresh and diverse. The atmosphere is relaxed, making it the perfect spot for a postshopping late lunch or a quick dinner, before you head to check out some of the many new craft beer bars or cocktail to open in the Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi Creative City). By now this location is swarming with new cafes, food spots, shops and creative agencies. A worth-while destination for anyone interested in beer, coffee, bikes, industrial conversions and bars made from old train wagons.

where to have a coffee?

Tallinn

Renard TELLISKIVI 62, TALLINN www.facebook.com/renardcoffeeshop

46

A

relative newcomer on the Tallinn coffee scene, Renard has quickly become the go-to destination for some of the best coffee in town. Located on the edge of Telliskivi Loomelinnak, Renard is neatly situated in the most bustling part of trendy Tallinn. The café overlooks the old train tracks of the once notoriously abandoned “Balti Jaam” area. These Tallinners, looking to get their hands on the latest gossip from their friends over brunch, before they head off to one of the many vintage shops & markets nearby. Also check out Peatus next door – a group of old train wagons converted into a hangout spot with food, drinks and djs.

Klaus (With Estonian Design Shop)

KALASADAMA 8, TALLINN www.klauskohvik.ee

J

ust around the corner from the architecturally imposing Linnahall and the towering Kultuurikatel, lies Klaus. A cosy and stylish café and restaurant. Head over for a good cup of coffee and an afternoon meal after bracing the cool winds on the Tallinn seafront. Klaus is also housed in the Estonian Design House, which means you can also browse the local shop for some design pieces.

Björn Espresso Bar MAAKRI 28, TALLINN www.facebook.com/BJÖRN -Espresso-BAR-966948210026880

H

idden away between the glass sky-high new architecture of Tallinn, is Björn Espresso Bar. Its name says it all: you can grab a delicious fresh coffee during the day, or an aperitivo after work. Its interior is the ideal mix of conand exposed brick walls are perfect for hiding away from the rain and snow during the colder seasons.

47

where to drink?

Tallinn

Whisper Sister PĂ„RNU MAANTEE 12, TALLINN www.whispersister.ee

48

A

speakeasy bar, hidden in a basement in the Tallinn city centre. With its impressive line-up of cocktails and classy surroundings, it should be a destination for any drink connoisseur in Tallinn.

Frank & Frank Underground SAUNA 2, TALLINN www.frankbistro.ee

F

RANK is one of these locations, which is suitable for any occasion. A bistro serving coffee, brunch, lunch, dinner

panelling and has a metropolitan feel to it, creating a contrast to its medieval Old Town setting. Make sure to try one of their Juniper cocktails, served in brass covered cups.

Lekker VABADUSE VĂ„LJAK 10, TALLINN www.lekker.bar/web

S

ituated on the Freedom Square in the centre, Lekker is undoubtedly one of the best clubs in Tallinn. Its superior sound-system and ability draw in top techno and house djs from all over the world, as well as having recently hosted all clubbers.

A few doors down sits Frank Underground, serving some of the best cocktails in town. The setting of dimmed lights, yone lose track of time. Perfect for a post-dinner cocktail before you head into the Tallinn nightlife.

what to see?

Tallinn

Eesti Rahvamuuseum (Estonian National Museum) 50

MUUSEUMI TEE 2, TARTU www.erm.ee

E

esti Rahva Muusem (Estonian National Museum), located a 2,5 hour drive from Tallinn in the city of Tartu, has been one of the more ambitious architectural undertakings of the last decade. Commissioned in 2005, with the

from 1909, with the location used as a military base in the post-WWII years. After more than 50 decades of travelling around various museums and storage units, the collection of artefacts of Estonian life from the 19th and 20th centuries have found a home among more contemporary pieces re-

imposing glass facade of the building blends into the old military runway on which its stands. The museum is built on the premises of the original Estonian National Museum

one can observe homes, explore the food, dress, language and customs of Estonians from all ages.

Linnahall &Lennusadam www.linnahall.ee www.meremuuseum.ee/lennusadam/en

L

innahall is one of the less obvious tourist attractions in Estonia, as to most it represents a concrete relic of Soviet architecture. Built for the sailing event of the Moscow Summer Olympics in 1980, these days this concrete monument with its 5000-seat amphitheatre is more of a ghost town. Yet the spot remains popular among young skatelarge concrete canvasses and stunning city views.

Take a walk from the recently renovated towering Kultuurikatel (an old power plant transformed to a popular event venue) up the steps of Linnahall and down the waterfront

51

via Kultuurikilomeeter. Down past the famous Patarei Vangla (a 19th century prison now standing empty) you will soon end up at the grand structure that is Lennusadam (Sea Plane Harbour). This newly renovated sea plane hangar is home to the Estonian Maritime Museum and a number of large scale events, including fashion shows and club nights. But seeing the imposing structure of this building is worth a trip in itself.

In fact, the whole coastline described above is in the mist of a large regeneration project. So grab a chance to see this bit of historical Tallinn coastline before the future catches up with it.

Simple Session www.session.ee

E

skate and BMX contest circuit: once just a local competition, it has become one of the most prestigious BMX

52 of the world championships in skateboarding World Cup that never fails to impress, laid-back vibe, massive media coverage and biggest names in the business it has become one giant party that keeps on trying to stand for everything that is real about BMX and skateboarding.

Instikurmu Festival www.kurmu.com

A

musical escape to the forest. Still a relatively smallscale festival, Intsikurmu puts on the freshest of home-grown talent in a relaxed bohemian setting. With each year the festival brings in also artists from further

Tallinn Music Week www.tmw.ee

H

eld each spring in Tallinn, Estonia since 2009, Tallinn Music Week is a weeklong celebration of talent, curiosity, creativity, freedom and equality. Having started out as a music industry conference and talent showcase festival, TMW has broadened its concept further into an all-encompassing city festival, covering arts, design, technology, city space, food culture and various societal issues. Already in its 9th year, TMW is one of Europe’s fastest growing city festivals and major meeting points for Eastern, Western and Central European creative communities.

53

48h getaway?

The Islands

W

ith its 2222 islands and islets, the Estonian coastline is a great getaway to enjoy the long light summer nights. They say time has a different way of passing on the islands, and while the islands are popular among the locals 54

empty stretches of pristine beaches. So grab a map, leave your phone at home, and enjoy the sea breeze on the islands.

Hiiumaa 58. 9240° N

www.ungrumaja.ee | www.restokuur.ee

I

f you are looking for a bohemian weekend, escape to the western island of Hiiumaa. Also known as the “surfers ning beaches for those looking for a more relaxed holiday away from the crowds. We recommend you stay at Ungru Guesthouse and head for the main village Kärdla for a meal

at the local restaurant Kuur, where the dishes change each fer. Make sure to also take a trip to the other side of the island and visit Kalana, with its pale-blue beach views and harbourside restaurant.

Muhu 58.5794° N

www.padaste.ee

F

or a more glamorous getaway, book yourself into the Pädaste Manor and enjoy a meal at their resident restaurant Alexander- rated the second best restaurant in Estonia, surpassed only by the NOA Chef’s Hall. Known for its stunning countryside views and 5-star facilities, Pädaste is located on the small island of Muhu, between the mainland and the country’s biggest island Saaremaa.

Once you’ve made the most of the luxuries at the manor, including their spa facilities, head to the main village Liiva, where the local bakery Muhu Leib makes some of the best black rye bread in the country.

55

finland

60.1699° N Capital:helsinki

F

inland´s swathes of forested land piqued with lakes present a special type of seclusion.

Tucked up in the northern corner of Europe Finns have always prized craft and self-reliance.

Design thinking and innovation are necessities when you are left alone to look after yourself.

Finland bridges an arching Baltic Sea coastline of gneiss and granite rocks and skerries with a sparsely populated taiga forest bordering neighbouring Russia. The mist of the lake in the morning and dusk falling slowly, splintering the light through the pines enables one to think. A history of production and resource eftainability and continued regeneration of Finnish values and purpose. Away from the sauna, the quirks of karaoke, death metal and tango, as the innovators to watch post Nokia. The relocation of Helsinki´s main port and it´s urban renaissance, combined with a new direction towards Asia, make Helsinki a destination to revisit. The Åland islands give a chance to explore the archipelago and its natural tranquility. Contemporary Finland has been built on a strong architectural legacy, strength in education and transparency in governance. Experimentation sal basic citizen income to Finns and then inno-

59

Helsinki Anni Korkman

I

’m originally from Helsinki and I have lived here for most of my life. Some years ago I moved to Milan for a bit and after that I have lived in New York, and lately London.

Throughout these years I have always had a home in Helsinki. I work for Helsinki Design Week, an annual, multidisciplinary design festival presenting design from a number

For dinner it has to be either Baskeri & Basso, an amazing little bistro (also check out their wine bar), or Sea Horse, which is also fun. Very traditional, therefore exotic - especially for lovers of butter, double cream and baltic herring!

Another favourite is Ateljé Finne. Just order the liquorice crème brûlée and thank me later.

culture (www.helsinkidesignweek.com).

For an evening activity I would recommend visiting the Culture Sauna. I almost don’t want people to know about this place. So don’t tell anyone! But go! If you still feel like going for drinks after sauna, try Puttes Bar & Pizza for a glass of wine and pizza, or Siltanen Bar and Kaiku Club.

I would say a perfect day in Helsinki includes exploring the archipelago: there are so many beautiful little islands only a few-minutes boat ride away. Also walking by the water or on the ice in the winter is a nice way to start the day.

I would say the best breakfast is at Café KUUMA in Punavuori. They make very “Instagramable” smoothies and avocado toast. Run by two lovely sisters, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming.

Café KUUMA:

Albertinkatu 6, 00150 Helsinki The Aalto House:

www.alvaraalto.fi/studioaalto Bas & Bas:

After breakfast head to Punavuori Design District. There are lots of independent design shops, such as Nide Book-

www.basbas.fi; www.basbas.fi/winebar Sea Horse:

www.seahorse.fi shop Proloque on Iso-Roobertinkatu (www.proloque.com) and of course Arela (www.arelastudio.com) and everyone’s

Ateljé Finne:

www.ateljefinne.fi Kulttuurisauna:

com). Also the beautiful gallery space and concept store Lokal is always worth a visit (www.lokalhelsinki.com). If you´re interested in Finnish design, you should also visit Alvar Aalto’s Home and Studio for some inspiration.

www.kulttuurisauna.fi Putte’s Bar & Pizza:

www.puttes.fi Siltanen:

www.siltanen.org/siltanen Kaiku:

www.clubkaiku.fi

ANNI KORKMAN IS A PRODUCER SHE IS CURRENTLY COMPLETING IN INNOVATION MANAGEMENT MARTINS, UNIVERSITY OF

AND A STRATEGIST. A MASTER’S DEGREE AT CENTRAL SAINT ARTS LONDON.

where to stay? helsinki

Lilla Roberts PIENI ROOBERTINKATU 1-3, HELSINKI www.lillaroberts.fi

62

S

ituated majestically in one of the prestigious residential areas of the city, in the middle of the Design District, Lilla Roberts Hotel will delight the most sophisticated tastes.

Its stylish and extravagant interior impresses with a glossy monochrome, an Art Deco theme and a giant black horse ish word for a Nordic coziness and life’s simple pleasures. A harmonic fusion of modernity, history and classical splendour, as well as a calm and quiet location, ensure the most enjoyable stay.

Hotel Kämp POHJOISESPLANADI, 29, HELSINKI www.hotelkamp.com

T

th

century building in the heart of the exclusive city centre of Helsinki, Hotel Kämp presents historical authenticity and classical luxury. Famous for its prestigious past, when it was a residence for artists, intellectuals and the political elite, Kämp maintains a balance between traditionalism and modernity. Stylish rooms with lush furniture and marble bathrooms perfectly combined with modern facilities.

If you want to experience the highest standards with a cosmopolitan luxurious touch, Kämp is the best choice.

The Yard Concept Hostel KALEVANKATU 3 A 45, HELSINKI www.theyard.fi

A

bove the archway is a sign that says City Forum Hos-

concept hostel – The Yard. In an iconic building built in 1912, in the center of Helsinki with Stockmann Departof everything. The Yard gives a light breakfast and caters for the individual traveler or groups. A cool common room to hangout in after a full schedule gives opportunity to meet others in a relaxed atmosphere and more budget to spend in town.

63

where to eat? helsinki

Ask VIRONKATU 8, HELSINKI www.restaurantask.com

64

A

sk, both modest and astonishing, is the top restaurant in Finland that received the prestigious Michelin star in 2014. This small and intimate Scandinavian spot is run by a wife and husband, providing a truly familiar atmosphere.

Their concept is based on fresh and seasonal vegetables or simply - the nature. The last one is a major inspiration for the carefully selected daily menu that changes depending on the availability of natural products.

The Cock FABIANINKATU 17, HELSINKI www.thecock.fi

A

vibe of a family-style food culture. The Cock is a casual eating and drinking spot that serves healthy food and seasonal ingredients. Delicious breakfasts, lush lunches and drinks till late night – all of a very good quality and taste.

The excellent food goes hand in hand with a light and contemporary interior design, providing you with extraordi-

Gaijin BULEVARDI 6, HELSINKI www.gaijin.fi

I

f you dream of a taste journey to North Asia, visit Gaijin. This is a unique spot that offers an excellent fusion of Japanese, Korean and Chinese dishes. The restaurant, with its dark, contemporary dĂŠcor, a warm atmosphere and long communal tables, is a place based on the culture of socialising, with even the dishes designed to be shared. Excellent cocktails and tasting menus with delicious samples boldly served with a modern touch.

Strindberg POHJOISESPLANADI 33, HELSINKI www.strindberg.fi

T

his is one of the oldest restaurants in Helsinki. Overlooking Esplande Park, Strindberg combines a modern simplicity with a classic elegance. It consists of a cafe and a pastry shop on the street level of the building, and a dinthe heart and a soul of the place. An impressive continental interior with comfortable chairs and big windows create a busily urban yet relaxing atmosphere. The menu is a mixture of simple, Nordic classics, a modern continental style

Story VANHA KAUPPAHALLI, ETELĂ„RANTA, HELSINKI www.restaurantstory.fi

S

tory is a cafĂŠ-restaurant set in the middle of the Old Market Hall, with a wonderful view over the sea. This is a place where traditionalism mixes with a modern, minimalistic Scandinavian design. A natural light, high ceilings and big windows create the atmosphere of spacious cosiness. With love for food based on the best ingredients found at the nearby market hall, Story offers the highest quality breakfast and brunch dishes. Selected bread and coffee from local manufacturers as well as wine from small wineries allow you to take part in a real feast of homemade cuisine.

Holiday Bar KANAVARANTA 7, HELSINKI www.holiday-bar.fi

D

o you need a short vacation from your regular life?

As the name suggests, Holiday Bar is a perfect spot for that. It is a bright, vibrant restaurant, bar and terrace, located just by the water on the island of Katajanokka. and modern veggie dishes. Served on a large outdoor terrace in the summer, its meant for fully enjoying sunny days.

where to have a coffee?

Helsinki

La Torrefazione ALEKSANTERINKATU 50, HELSINKI www.latorre.fi/en/location/aleksanterinkatu

K

nown as one of Helsinki’s best coffee houses. A tiny café, located in the heart of the city, with big windows tu. La Torrefazione takes its coffee seriously. It does not only serve coffee but also roasts its own beans, paying special attention to all the steps of sustainable coffee production. Take a break to taste a cup of high-quality coffee and enjoy the story that stands behind each of its blends.

Kaffa Roastery PURSIMIEHENKATU 29 A, HELSINKI www.kaffaroastery.fi

K

affa Roastery is a coffee roastery and a café located in the hip neighborhood of Punavuori. The place is run by coffee professionals – the real masters of their craft with a passion for everything connected to coffee. This small roastery offers freshly roasted coffee beans and unique recipes, bringing out all the natural sweetness and magic of the black liquid.

where to drink?

Helsinki

Bier-Bier EROTTAJANKATU 13, HELSINKI www.bier-bier.fi

68

B

ier-Bier is a stylish, dark and intimate bar with a small

over the world. It is located in a unique, antique building that is preserved by the National Board of Antiquities, being one of the treasures of Finnish cultural heritage. An independent handpicked selection of high quality wine, craft beer and cider will satisfy all tastes.

Liberty or Death EROTTAJANKATU 5, HELSINKI www.libertyordeath.bar

L

iberty or Death is a small hide-away cocktail bar located in the middle of Helsinki's Design District. It is well known for its dark moody atmosphere and a great cocktail menu. Its brick walls, bar candles, vintage oil lamps, antique cocktail tools and a good selection of innovative beverages make you feel transported to another era.

Siltanen HÄMEENTIE 13 B, HELSINKI www.siltanen.org

S

iltanen, sometimes called the “Hipster Heaven”, is a favourite spot for the creative bunch. Its minimalistic Scandinavian décor turns into a more intimate ambience at night time. Located in the middle of one of the busiest streets in Helsinki, is always full of people. You can go there at any time of the day, any time of the week, to enjoy a drink or a great dinner in a cosy and relaxed atmosphere.

69

what to see?

Helsinki

Design District & Design Museum 70

D

PUNAVUORENKATU 7, HELSINKI KORKEAVUORENKATU 23, HELSINKI www.designdistrict.fi www.designmuseum.fi

esign District is a creative area full of the best Finnish design. There are over 200 spots - from fashion shops, museums, art galleries and restaurants to design studios and hotels – covering over 25 streets of the city centre. It is more than a district. It is a unique space for creativity and Finnish urban culture, which promotes young local design-

ers, as well as the most recognisable names, brands and trend-setters. To complete your design experience, visit the Design Museum that is situated in the heart of the district.

It is one of the oldest museums in the world that has a vast collection of contemporary design, architecture, fashion, graphics and technology.

Kiasma MANNERHEIMINAUKIO 2, HELSINKI www.kiasma.fi

F

inland's famed Museum of Contemporary Art is, as its symbolic name implies, a design of intersections. Ki-

is to be an open space for contribution and interaction. The Museum’s collection and special exhibitions include works, ish and international contemporary artists. Its monumental design is based on exposing and embracing the natural Nordic light that constantly changes depending on a season and the time of day.

Flow Festival PARRUKATU 2, HELSINKI www.flowfestival.com

F

low Festival is an urban music festival located near the heart of Helsinki. It is one of the biggest music, arts and cultural events in the Nordic region, set in a unique industrial location of an old disused power station. It’s famous for drawing in established acts from the international alternative scene, as well as new and emerging artists. A varied selection of music from indie rock to jazz, folk and club art installations make the festival a true paradise for people hungry for culture.

71

Löyly HERNESAARENRANTA 4, HELSINKI www.loylyhelsinki.fi 72

T

he steam from pouring water on hot stones in a sauna is called “löyly” in Finnish. And that is what this place is all about - an extraordinary space which is a perfect combination of saunas and a restaurant. It is well known for the soft minimalism of an exceptional wooden architecture, a waterfront location and a large terrace with a stunning sea view. Its architectural environmentally-conscious approach extends to the kitchen, based on organic products from the region. There is no other place like it in Helsinki: when you can relax, socialise, purify and meditate under one roof.

48h getaway?

Åland/Ahvenanmaa 60. 1785° N

T

he Åland islands (Ahvenanmaa in Finnish) are located in the Baltic Sea, midway between Stockholm and Helsinki. The archipelago, that consists of around 6 500 islands and only one little town - Mariehamn, is an autonomous province of Finland. For a place that ingly easy to get to. Located less than an hour away by plane from Helsinki or Turku, Åland is an outdoor lover’s paradise. With its beautiful ing, cross-country skiing or cycling depending on the season.

Brobacka Guest House & Café ÄNGSGATAN 177, JOMALA www.brobacka.ax

B

robacka is a beautifully situated guest house and a café in Björsby, Jomala. A wooden house built in traditional Åland style, surrounded by a charming garden and a great view over the Ämnes stream creates a truly idyllic atmosphere. Brobacka consists of six brightly decorated rooms with a cosy, country style interior, a shop with local handicraft and a summer café with homemade dishes and sweets based on seasonal products. With its eco-friendly, environmental approach and the wild surroundings, Brobacka is the best spot for all the nature lovers.

73

HavsVidden Hotel HAVSVIDDSVĂ„GEN 90, GETA www.havsvidden.com

74

H

avsVidden, with its outstanding location near the sea and wild cliffs, is a spot for tranquility and seclusion. The hotel, with exclusive cliff houses, is surrounded by walking trails, beautiful views and untouched nature. Away from the relaxing in its sauna, pool or deep waters of the sea.

Kvarter 5 NORRAGATAN 10, MARIEHAMN www.kvarter5.ax

K

varter 5 serves a unique combination of traditional menu with a modern touch, inspired by Nordic cuisine.

Vibrant and varied dishes prepared from scratch are based on raw, seasonal ingredients from local producers. A passion for cooking with a pinch of craziness, perfectly combined with a wide selection of wine and champagne from all over the world as well as selected beer from the local

Smakbyn Restaurant SLOTTSVĂ„GEN 134, KASTELHOLM www.smakbyn.ax

75

S

makbyn, just a stone cast away from the medieval castle of Kastelholm, is a restaurant, distillery and a shop in one.

It is strongly focused on serving the best artisan food from locally produced, basic ingredients which keep changing according to the season. Inspired by its love for Nordic cuisine, Smakbyn also produces its own special blend of spirits and liqueurs, with its legendary apple brandy. The impressive simplicity of the food and beverages as well as the raw beauty of the interior make the place a perfect representation of

Stallhagen Brewery GETAVĂ„GEN 196, GODBY www.stallhagen.com

S

tallhagen is a local microbrewery, famous in Finland and duction is founded on natural raw products, according to the handmade, slow beer principle. It brings out a different variety of specialty and prize-winning seasonal beers both in bottles and on tap. Perfectly balanced, with a harmony of taste, colour and aroma, it is the natural choice for beer ble beer tasting.

germany

52.5200° N Capital: berlin

G

ermany is an economic and diplomatic engine room of Europe. The south is dominated by the German Alps. The peak of the Zugspitze surveys all, and as one looks northwards to the shores of the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, the lands slope downwards from the forested uplands to the familiar northern lowlands pines and larch of the sandy soils and pebbled beaches of the coast. Passing rows of strandkorb beach chairs at the seafront, known as the German Rivera, gives a sense of traditionalism and reminds you of the strong belief that the country holds for craftsmanship and production.

Being in the midst of Europe, this third largest the wind steered by the North Atlantic drift, as well as by continental climate coming from the East. Germany´s position encapsulates the capital Berlin as a glimmering showcase.

The city has witnessed many transitions and the renewal is palpable, balancing tenaciously the love for historic buildings and the hunger for engineering and new innovations. For our getaway we take you to Hamburg, the Free and Hanseatic city and one of the top 20 container ports, to take in the sea breeze and some new architectural prowess.

79

berlin Marie von Stauffenberg

A

ll the things people tell you about Berlin are true. You can go out all week, people are naked in the saunas,

As an inhabitant of this city, this is not news for me anymore, however the city never stops surprising me. After

Kohlenquelle for some tank beers and ping-pong games before jumping into a cab towards livelier parts of town. In Kreuzberg you can either hit Farbfernseher on Skalitzer Straße for some dancing that feels like you are in someones attic. For more of a clubbing-vibe Prince Charles is where you want to be. Nightlife options in this area are really endless and it's up to you if you want to spend your Sunday

Fridays is some beers at Meine Bar on Auguststraße. It's a

though you might end up dancing there, too.

me into a much nicer part of Mitte, with beautiful old buildings and nice restaurants.

Meine Bar:

unpopular.

www.meinebarici.com Silo Coffee:

On Saturdays I cycle to Friedrichshain, a 15-minute ride from my Prenzlauer Berg home. Lots of brunch places are waiting there for you, as well as a wonderful farmer's mar-

www.facebook.com/silocoffee Kanaan:

www.kanaan-berlin.de/en Kohlenquelle:

ket). Try Silo on Gabriel-Max-Straße for great coffee and divine poached egg breakfast. On the way back I stop at Volkspark Friedrichshain, a busy place that the locals use for exercising as much as for boozy picnics. Have a sausage from the stand outside Schönbrunn and share your bun with the ducks in the pond. If it is sunny, it is perfect to hang there the whole afternoon. If it's raining kill some time at Buchbox on Greifswalder Straße (Ecke Hufeland), a bookstore with a great selection and super-dedicated staff.

No need to dress up for nights out in Berlin, so you can head straight to the northern parts of Prenzlauer Berg for dinner at Kanaan. This small gem is situated by the train racks at Kopenhagener Straße in a little shack. It's run by a Palestinian-Israeli team sending a political message along with great vegetarian food from the Middle East. Cross the street to

www.kohlenquelle.de Farbfernseher:

www.farb-fernseher.de Prince Charles:

www.princecharlesberlin.com

MARIE VON STAUFFENBERG WORKS WITH POLITICAL COMMUNICATION AT THE AGENCY SCHOLZ & FRIENDS IN BERLIN. WHILE A BAVARIAN AT HEART, SHE HAS PREVIOUSLY ALSO CALLED LONDON AND STOCKHOLM HOME.

where to stay? berlin

Das Stue TIERGARTEN, DRAKESTRASSE 1, BERLIN www.das-stue.com

82

C

ombining neoclassic architecture, warm and elegant design with an exquisite black and white photo collection, Das Stue (Danish for ‘living room’) opened in 2012 right next to Tiergarten Park. Most of the rooms offer not only panorama windows overlooking Berlin’s largest green area, but also extra-long beds and whenever possible a freestanding bathtub. Enjoy classic cocktails from the 1920s and 1930s in the hotel bar or take a stroll in the zoo using the hotel’s very own exclusive entrance.

Michelberger Hotel WARSCHAUER STRASSE 39-40, BERLIN www.michelbergerhotel.com

C

olourful, adventuresome, stylish and in the midst of everything – the hotel designed by Werner Aisslinger is a phy of its location in Friedrichshain/Kreuzberg. Book-lovers will appreciate the library-themed room whereas others will enjoy having a hideout from Berlin’s nightlife with an own sauna as well as dinner and breakfast served in the room.

Hotel Oderberger ODERBERGER STRASSE 57, BERLIN www.hotel-oderberger.berlin

T

he heart of this hotel is the historic natatorium from 1902, re-opened in 2016. Located in the cosy district Prenzlauer Berg, the building’s substance was widely preserved, hosting the restaurant in the previous heating room and integrating original tiles, windows and doors in the design. The hotel is cooperating with Berlin-based artists, exhibiting their works in the rooms and halls, and has become an extravagant event location offering the swimming pool hall as space for performances and (light) installations.

83

Plus Berlin WARSCHAUER PLATZ 6, BERLIN www.plushostels.com 84

H

aving an indoor swimming pool, a sauna, a beach bar during summer time and weekly yoga sessions, Plus Berlin Hostel&Hotel can easily compete with the wellestablished humming bar and club scene around. Hit the popular hang-out spot on the OberbaumbrĂźcke bridge close-by to watch the sunset and enjoy the open view over the Spree river.

where to eat? berlin

Mogg & Melzer AUGUSTSTRASSE 11-13, BERLIN www.moggmogg.com

F

or lunch step by Mogg & Melzer, housed in the same building as Pauly Saal. It’s a Jewish pastrami deli, inspired by the streets of New York. The food is excellent, with a great atmosphere and friendly service.

Nobelhart & Schmutzig FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 218, BERLIN www.nobelhartundschmutzig.com

B

efore going here, make sure to have the address right met restaurant is easy to miss. All ingredients are exclusively from the capital itself and its surrounding regions and even the plates, lamps and candles come from local or

Pauly Saal AUGUSTSTRASSE 11-13, BERLIN www.Paulysaal.com 86

L

ocated in the former gym of a Jewish Girl’s School, the kitchen of Pauly Saal with its 1920/30 inspired interior focuses on German and Austrian cuisine with a modern twist and serves only set-course meals. If not distracted by the 6-meter-large rocket by artist Cosima von Bodin, you can take a look in the glass kitchen underneath and see the chefs at work.

Facil at Mandala Hotel POTSDAMER STRASSE 3, BERLIN www.facil.de

T

he 2 Michelin-star restaurant and the self-designated shooting star chef Michael Kempf’s cooking accentuates oasis in “Berlin’s new centre” captivates its guests with high-class cuisine without frills, using mainly regional and rounded by a dense bamboo garden. seasonal products. The purity and effortlessness of the

where to have a coffee? berlin

Bonanza Roastery Café ADALBERTSTRASSE 70/ ODERBERGER STRASSE 35, BERLIN www.bonanzacoffee.de

W

hen opening in 2006, Bonanza Coffee was a pioneer amongst the micro-roasteries and coffee gourmets.

Now, with the coffee scene quickly expanding in Berlin, Bonanza Coffee remains an institution. In 2016 it introduced a new, bigger venue in Kreuzberg, making it the mecca for the smoothest cappuccino in Berlin.

87

Café Leuchtstoff SIEGFRIEDSTRASSE 19, BERLIN www.facebook.com/leuchtstoffK

88

W

ith its raw, wooden living-room-like furnishing, Café Leuchtstoff could be the hub for start-uppers and the likeminded. The café is off the beaten track however, it has a laptop-free zone, high-quality coffee supplied directly from smaller roasteries and supports local community projects.

Five Elephant REICHENBERGER STRASSE 101, BERLIN www.fiveelephant.com

T

he coffee comes from the nearby Five Elephant microroastery in Kreuzberg and is best enjoyed in the minimalistic steel and hardwood furnished café close to the canal and Berlin’s infamous park “Görlitzer Park”. Rumor has it that this third-wave coffee shop serves the best cheesecake in town.

CafĂŠ Fleury WEINBERGSWEG 20, BERLIN www.facebook.com/CafĂŠ-Fleury-108988229123298/

W

hile sitting outside on the terrace and having a coffee and croissant, it is easy to imagine being in Paris while in the middle of the Prenzlauer Berg district. The and the joint little store sells French gourmet food from home-made jam to wine and mustard.

89

where to drink? berlin

Katz Orange BERGSTRASSE 22, BERLIN www.katzorange.com

90

A

could be cast as a typical Berlin hipster bar with nonmatching vintage furniture, brick walls and a semi-hidden location (in the backyard of a former brewery). But the food, as well as the cocktail creations, are above the ordinary. Katz Orange is also a member of the ‘Contemporary Food Lab’ Community, aiming to combine gastronomy, food innovation, entrepreneurship and cultural programming.

Cordobar GROSSE HAMBURGER STRASSE 21, BERLIN www.cordobar.net

A

fter exploring the many galleries in near-by Auguststraße, Cordobar is a cool and elegant wine bar to let the evening fade away. Specialised in Austrian and German wine, the little restaurant also serves small savoury and sweet dishes, which would never fall under the label bar-food.

Prater Biergarten KASTANIENALLEE 7-9, BERLIN www.pratergarten.de

U

nder leafy chestnut trees and dimmed fairy lights, the oldest beer garden in town offers refreshments and a cultural programme ranging from theatre to concerts to variété since 1837. The atmosphere, as well as the drinks and food menu is down-to-earth, listing Berlin’s special beer “Berliner Weiße” and German classics like potato salad.

Weinerei VETERANENSTR. 14, BERLIN www.weinerei.com

M

ost of the guests will remember the rather special payment system, which this wine bar and café Weinerei has: pay as much as you want when you leave (with a minimum amount). What should be even more memorable is the wine itself: coming from the owner’s family vineyard in Northern Bavaria and from befriended wine-makers from around the globe, which can be tasted throughout the whole evening.

Klunkerkranich NEUKÖLLN ARCADEN, KARL-MARX-STRASSE 66, BERLIN www.klunkerkranich.de 92

E

scape from Neukölln’s noisy streets via an elevator to probably Berlin’s best view and alternative rooftop bar.

On the last two levels of the car parking deck of the local tive cocktail bar. Food and cake is served, as well as upbeat electronic music or soothing jazz.

ora ORANIENPLATZ 14/ERKELENZDAMM 1, BERLIN www.facebook.com/oraberlin

I

n the spirit of a Viennese coffeehouse, ORA is open all day long, transforming from a breakfast location to a brassiere, with a lovely cake selection, to a late-night cocktail bar. Choose from “classic”, “invoked” and “forgotten” cocktails or go seasonal with a asparagus-infused corn brandy when sitting in this former pharmacy, with most of the interior and furniture remaining.

what to see? berlin

Feuerle Collection HALLESCHES UFER 70, BERLIN www.thefeuerlecollection.org

A

sculptures and Imperial Chinese furniture, juxtaposed with international contemporary art, can only be arranged by appointment. Asked to leave phones and cameras at the entrance, the visitors are led down into the concrete art space of the former telecommunications bunker from

93

the Second World War. Apart from the carefully chosen exhibits of the art collector Désiré Feuerle, the “Lake room” (a 2000 sqm underground water expanse) and the soon to be opened “Incense Room” (showcasing an old Chinese spiritual discipline and incense ceremony) present a more contemporary approach to ancient art.

Tempelhofer Field

A

fter a referendum in 2014, the former central Tempelhof Airport was closed down, slowly transforming into a park of vast expanse of grass and trees for public use.

Now kitesurfers, cyclists, roller skaters and people barbe-

in the streets nearby.

Kunst-Werke Institute for Contemporary Art

94

AUGUSTSTRASSE 69, BERLIN www.kw-berlin.de/en

T

he KW Institute is the venue and laboratory for young contemporary art in the German capital. Co-founder Klaus Biesenbach, now chief curator at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York, left his mark on the institution.

The institute does not have a collection on its own, but hosts changing exhibitions by international upcoming artists and offers a broad educational and cultural programme including installations, performances and music.

Hebbel am Ufer HAU1, STRESEMANNSTR. 29; HAU2, HALLESCHES UFER 32; HAU3, TEMPELHOFER UFER 10, BERLIN www.english.hebbel-am-ufer.de/home

T

he three venues of the Hebbel Theatre are known for their international programme of theatre, dance and performance art. Panel discussions, readings, visual art and concerts complement the repertoire of the theatre, which wants to be so much more: experimental area, artistic and political meeting point, a stage for new-coming choreographers and dancers and a space for searching forms and manners of expression.

53.5511° N Hamburg

where to stay? hamburg

25Hours Hotel Altes Hafenamt 98

OSAKAALLEE 12, HAMBURG www.25hours-hotels.com/de/altes-hafenamt/home

T

gineering accommodates one of the three 25Hours design hotels in Hamburg. The “Altes Hafenamt” combines cosmopolitanism and innovation, playing with the original features of the building and creating living room cosiness with a touch of the quirky. The hotel features Samova tea stations and Bluetooth speakers in all the rooms. For exploring the city, rent the hotel’s minimalistic and elegant bikes.

Superbude St. Georg SPALDINGSTRASSE 152, HAMBURG www.superbude.de/hostel-hamburg-st-georg

T

he cheeky, colourful and quirky merge of a design hotel and youth hostel surprises with its unusual combina-

feeling deceives: behind the concept and realisation stands the creative hotel magnate Kai Hollmann, co- founder of the 25Hours Hotels.

Hotel Louis C. Jacob ELBCHAUSSEE 401-403, HAMBURG www.hotel-jacob.de

L

ooking back on 226 years of history, the hotel is a wellestablished name in the Hanseatic town, remaining one of the top addresses on the Elbe riverbank. Amongst the famous hotel guests throughout the times was also the German painter Max Liebermann, who is honoured with a themed room - including the original view from the terrace spiration for the large oil painting hanging in the hotel’s hall.

99

where to eat? hamburg

Bullerei LAGERSTRASSE 34B, HAMBURG www.bullerei.com

100

B

ullerei has a pleasing rustic dĂŠcor and casual, open atmosphere, making it the ideal spot to relax and enjoy

of the meat, sustainable and organic farming, and local products.

Restaurant Witwenball WEIDENALLEE 20, HAMBURG www.witwenball.com

B

ehind the Art-DĂŠco walls of this former 1920s dance club hides a restaurant with a focus on wine, featuring a vivid wine bar and a well-assorted wine store. All bottles come exclusively from German eco-friendly, pristinelyworking wine-markers.

Klippkroog GROSSE BERGSTR. 255, HAMBURG www.klippkroog.de

K

lippkroog is one of these spots that’s perfect for breakfast, lunch coffee and an evening meal alike. The food represents German cuisine with a hip twist. The interior and the atmosphere are laid back, making it a great spot for catching up with friends.

101

The Table SHANGHAIALLEE 15, HAMBURG www.thetable-hamburg.de

102

T

he name speaks for itself: only one large, winding wooden table is to be found in this restaurant opened in 2015.

Despite the open and fashionable sitting area, a cosy intimacy arises quickly when dining here, since only up to 20 guests can book “The Table� on a given evening. The poetic the youngest 3-Michelin-star bearer in Germany.

where to have a coffee? hamburg

Milchfeinkost DITMAR-KOEL-STRASSE 22, HAMBURG www.facebook.com/milchfeinkost

I

n the 1950s, when this café was still a dairy shop, people queued to get their milk bottles here. Now, after opening in 2015, locals stand in line for the delicious breakfast, pastry and coffee in this dog-friendly café.

Elbgoldkaffee LAGERSTRASSE 34C, HAMBURG www.elbgoldshop.com

D

espite its spacious location with a rustic and industrial interior, this café and roastery can easily get crowded.

Coffee lovers appreciate the taste of the organic fair-trade coffee from all over the world, the milk comes however from (happy) local cows pasturing in the west of Hamburg by the Elbe riverside.

where to drink? hamburg

Walrus Bar WOHLWILLSTRASSE 47, HAMBURG www.thewalrusbar.de

104

A

relaxed atmosphere and bartenders who know their handcraft: the tiny Walrus Bar is a destination for highend cocktail lovers and local craft beer drinkers.

what to see? hamburg

Elbphilharmonie PLATZ DER DEUTSCHEN EINHEIT 1, HAMBURG www.elbphilharmonie.de/en/elbphilharmonie

T

he never-ending construction process of the philharN opened in 2017, the Elbphilharmonie overwhelms and stuns all its critics with its unique, wavy shape and the clean acoustics of the three concert halls.

105

Staatsoper Hamburg DAMMTORSTRASSE 28, HAMBURG www.staatsoper-hamburg.de

R 106

ebuilt in 1955 in Bauhaus-style, and encased with a concrete and glass construction in 2005, the Hamburg opera house is an eye catcher in the rather motley architectural assortment of this inner city street. Nowadays, it accommodates besides the City Opera also the Hamburg Ballet and the internationally renowned symphony orchestra Hamburger Philharmoniker.

Dockland VAN-DER-SMISSEN-STRASSE 9, HAMBURG

T

ing, designed in the shape of a ship’s prow, rewards with

Speicherstadt

C

obbled streets, red-brick buildings and the dozens of narrow canals and little bridges make this Hamburg’s warehouse district, and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the perfect destination for a Sunday walk.

107

iceland

64.1265° N Capital: Reykjavík

I

celand is an island buffered by the Norwegian Sea and the Greenland Sea in the Northern tip of the North Atlantic Ocean. Just skimming below the Arctic Circle, the majesty of the barren tundra landscape stretches before you, unfolding in a rare remoteness that opens perspectives and faces the unknown. Iceland exudes a particular magnetism, with the supernatural force of nature laid bare. The long, dark winters are unforgiving but beguile with the Aurelia Borealis dancing overhead. In turn the season gives way to the endless summer light of midnight sun. Leaving the capital for a drive through Iceland is a recommended adventure; even a short journey can entail diverse landscapes and weather for all four seasons. Iceland has always pioneered democratic values and in modern times the promotion of gender equality its small population of 300 000 inhabitants, the locals share a sense of harmony and togetherness in their community. The extremity of Iceland’s nature means that large parts of the country remain unpopulated, yet Iceland is full of gastronomical experiences, luxurious stays, boutique shopping and geothermal baths.

Leave your phone behind and synchronise your breathing with the sound of the waves crashing on the shoreline. The island gives an opportunity to connect with what matters most.

111

Reykjavík Hlin Helga Gudlaugsdottir

I

think this is one of the places in the world where you can feel the Universe breathe. If one listens, that is. It’s a good place to create. It’s a very real place. A place where climate sea. You feel the urgency. It’s so real, so intense - and so mystical at the same time. We have some surreal natural wonders here, but I think the real beauty of the island lies deeper. In fact Björk describes the Icelandic nature as being spiritual. I think that’s a good way to put it. I think it’s a place to be. Tune in. A space of “nothingness” like Kenya Hara, the Japanese art director notes; is one of possibility. In fact, creativity is sometimes said to breed out of boredom.

Reykjavík is a good place to live and I feel that the quality of life here is high; with none of the metropolitan time consuming commuting, chances of running into your friends

My favorite places are to be found in the vastness of the highlands. I like to breathe them in through hiking or horseback riding. Some are just overwhelmingly beautiful in their contrasted natural beauty; black sands, glaciers against the neon-green moss and liparit mountains like Þórsmörk. Others are just deserts of sand with mountains on the far horizon and tiny arctic roses at your feet like Sprengisandur.

Completely silent and strong. My secret place of indulgence though is the hot tub at my parent’s cabin with a view of the glaciers and blue mountains and the sound of the river in my ears. It’s the perfect place for doing absolutely nothing, just exhaling. Just being.

www.kaffifelagid.is Sundhöll Reykjavíkur:

Barónsstígur 45a, Reykjavík high. Kids roam around freely and then there’s the luxury of regenerating public swimming pools with their end of the day rewarding saunas and hot tubs. My favorite is Sundhöll

Matbar:

www.matbar.is Grandagarður 20, Reykjavík

This urban village has some very good cultural and culinary spots; MATBAR is the perfect place for a treat, whether it’s an aperitivo, dinner or just deserts and drinks with friends N dishes and amazing view of the Reykjavík skyline. It’s really nice to stroll around in the Grandi harbour area, with design studios, gourmet shops, restaurants and places such as the to the sea in the other direction to Grótta and enjoy the spectacular midnight sun in June.

HLIN HELGA GUDLAUGSDOTTIR IS A CURATOR, EXPERIENCE DESIGNER, UNIVERSITY TEACHER AND A CONSULTANT TO COMPANIES ON DESIGN T H I N K I N G , I N N O VAT I O N A N D C R E AT I V E L E A D E R S H I P. SHE CURRENTLY LIVES DOWNTOWN IN REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND WITH HER FAMILY, AFTER HAVING SPENT HALF OF HER ADULT LIFE IN CITIES AROUND EUROPE.

where to stay?

Reykjavík

Apotek Hotel AUSTURSTRAETI 16, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.keahotels.is/en/hotels/apotek-hotel

114

T

his boutique hotel is located in the heart of Reykjavík, with a tower suite offering panoramic views over Reykjavík.

the former State Architect of Iceland and the man behind the clean lines of the Hallgrímskirkja up on the hill. Today this hotels´ historical status blends perfectly with fresh Icelandic rant which draws you in with its stylish interior, cocktails and a delicious menu.

Canopy SMIÐJUSTÍGUR 4, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.canopy3.hilton.com

C

anopy by Hilton is located off the main street in downtown. The lobby and spacious entrance area offers many places to lounge and relax all in a stylish setting. The hotel also hosts the chic restaurant Geiri Smart. If you are looking for that little extra, the essence of Hilton Hotel Canopy is modern and simple yet luxurious.

Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon HNAPAVELLIR, 785 ÖRÆFI www.fosshotel.is/hotels/fosshotel-in-the-south-east/ fosshotel-glacier-lagoon

W

hile this hotel is located 4 hours from Reykjavík, the location of this new hotel is more than worth the drive.

Standing between two of Iceland’s most visited natural attractions; the largest glacier in Europe Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Skaftafell, not only is the hotel surrounded by modern interiors. Its cosmopolitan design blends beautifully with its rough natural surroundings, making it the perfect out of town retreat spot.

115

Kex Hostel SKÚLAGATA 28, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.kexhostel.is

L 116

ocated in an old biscuit factory in downtown Reykjavík, KEX hostel has been the place to go since it opened.

While this hostel & hangout has been around for a while, it never ceases to draw in the crowds. Its modest entrance hides an eccentric and welcoming atmosphere, with an eclectic vintage interior and the large windows overlooking the Esja mountain. Kex is within walking distance to the harbour, the main shopping street and an array of restaurants. With so much more to offer than a this location in the evenings, for its gastro bar Sæmundur í Sparifötunum and live concerts.

where to eat?

Reykjavík

Snaps Bistro ÞÓRSGATA 1, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.snaps.is

V

isitors and locals alike are drawn to this award-winning restaurant for the welcoming atmosphere and authen-

emphasise fresh locally sourced produce and the menu is inspired by the modern Icelandic cuisine. Snaps is modelled upon the French bistro tradition and offers exquisite yet affordable courses. The feeling of home is enhanced by the plants scrambling over the windows giving a semi-atrium feel. Whether you are after a drink or a coffee at the bar, a light meal or a culinary experience, your requirements will be met.

117

Dill Restaurant HVERFISGATA 12, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.dillrestaurant.is

118

D

Star and has been voted one of Iceland’s best restaurants on several occasions. The restaurateur’s ambition is seen in every little detail and a visit to Dill becomes a journey, were the ingredients are allowed to shine in their own simplicity. Tucked down a side street you might miss the kitchen and glass windows to an inner courtyard which embrace a contemporary line without losing warmth. Embracing old traditions yet with their own touch, this pioneering new nordic cuisine uses distinctive indigenous ingredients and invites the guests on a culinary adventure.

Bullan GEIRSGÖTU 1, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.bullan.is

S

erving savory burgers by the old harbor in Reykjavík,

location, a short walk from the centre on Geirsgötu 1, gives you the option of walking off all those calories alongside the Reykjavík waterfront. The building is special too.

Mat Bar HVERFISGATA 26, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.matbar.is

Q

uickly gaining status as one of Reykjavík’s most cherished dinner spots, Mat Bar is a new favourite among the locals. Focusing on the simplicity of Italian kitchen with a Scandinavian approach, an array of tapas dishes are offered as soon as “aperativo” starts ticking. Whether it’s for drinks or dining, the guests are in for a unique experience.

Matur og Drykkur GRANDAGARÐUR 2, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.maturogdrykkur.is

L

fer dishes inspired by classic Icelandic cuisine given a contemporary twist. Recognised for the chef’s attention for details, exceptional service and informative waiters the restaurant was nominated with the Michelin’s "Bib Gourmand" signature.

119

where to have a coffee?

Reykjavík

Reykjavík Roasters KÁRASTÍGUR 1, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.reykjavikroasters.is

120

F

or a cup of high quality coffee or perfectly brewed tea, Reykjavík Roasters is the place to go. Living up to their

enhance the local coffee culture. Also, the friendly atmosphere and good service keep you coming back for more.

Kaffi Vínyl HVERFISGATA 76, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.facebook.com/vinilrvk

K

ens this is the perfect place for a coffee and a vegetarian and vegan friendly lunch while listening to vinyls and peoplewatching.

where to drink?

Reykjavík

Gallery Restaurant at Hotel Holt BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 37, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.holt.is

U

ndoubtable a hidden treasure, not many are aware that within the walls of Hotel Holt is an extensive collection of artwork. Being the home to numerous works by Jóhannes Kjarval, one of Iceland’s most known painters, guests now have the ability to admire works of art while enjoying happy hour from 16-19 every day. Gallery Restaurant transcends the description of a typical hotel bar as the surroundings create a unique atmosphere were you have a large collection of whisky, appetising cocktails and local microbrew to choose from.

121

Bar Ananas KLAPPARSTIGUR 38, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.facebook.com/barananas.tikibar

C

raving for that sunny beach and a warmer climate?

Well it´s not really warm or sunny, but Bar Ananas creates their own little paradise were some of Iceland’s most wanted dj’s warm up the night with electronic beats. This is most likely Reykjavík’s only tiki-themed bar, a unique exotic venue where they have mastered the art of making outstanding cocktails.

Boston Bar LAUGAVEGUR 28B, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.facebook.com/boston.reykjavik

W

hile it is best known for its soft jazz sounds and folksy patio, Boston Bar also delivers with happy hour and charming bartenders. Climb the stairs off the main street and the low ceiling wooded interior gives a laid back authenticity to the place. During weekends the spot turns more lively with locals keen on dancing with a drink in their hand.

Kaldi Bar LAUGAVEGUR 20B, 101 REYKJAVĂ?K www.kaldibar.is

K

brewery. It is safe to say that Kaldi Bar has its own atmosphere and is popular among locals. The piano is known to be played once in a while by the guests with talent, adding to the intimate salon surroundings.

123

what to see?

Reykjavík

Marshall House GRANDAGARÐUR 20, 101 REYKJAVÍK

L

ocated at the industrial end of Reykjavík’s harbor, the Marshall House serves as one of the main hubs for the countrys´ art community. The brand new contemporary art museum showcases artist-lead initiatives featuring many of the key individuals on Reykjavík’s creative scene. This historic former herring factory has been converted into a cavernous arts complex; accommodating the works of Gallery Kling&Bang, Gallery i8, The Living Art Museum and the studio and exhibition space of the renown Icelandic/ Danish artist Ólafur Elíasson.

Harpa AUSTURBAKKI 2, 101 REYKJAVÍK www.harpa.is

O

ne of Iceland’s most powerful landmarks, where the -

by the Icelandic/ Danish artist Ólafur Elíasson. The building of Harpa marked a milestone for Iceland´s cultural scene.

Grotta Island Lighthouse SELTJARNARNES, 170 REYKJAVÍK

A

boundary for land and sea, the Grotta lighthouse stands at the end of Greater Reykjavík’s peninsula. If you wish to take a walk with the stunning panorama views of the mountains across the bay, then Grotta’s black beach will not be disappointing. As you need to rely on the tidal causeway, make sure to dress according to the potential weather and check timings before heading over. With raw Icelandic nature at its best, the light pollution at this location has been kept minimal, leaving this a perfect place to enjoy the sight of Aurelia Borealis.

Now home to the Icelandic Opera and the Iceland Symphony Orchestra the building is always full of life. The unique design of the building interplays softly into its surroundings as the facade mimics the light interplay of Northern Lights. Located by the old harbour in Reykjavík, it becomes a part of the sky, land and sea.

Iceland Airwaves www.icelandairwaves.is

W

ith its unique character, this urban music festival attracts people from every corner of the world. For

with concerts and entertainment taking over every corner of the city. From 2017 Iceland Airwaves is expanding to Akureyri in the Northern part the country. Recognised as one of the world’s top music festivals, the festival attracts top indie and electronic music acts from home and across the seas.

126

48h getaway?

D

riving Northwest of the capital to Stykkishólmur, across the SnÌfellsnes peninsula, gives the opportunity to leave everything behind and follow the twists and turns of the ragged landscape. Travelling through the settings of the Laxdœla saga, the curves of the peninsula will lead you northwards towards the drama of the Western Fjords.

127

Stykkishólmur 65. 0729° N

www.stykkisholmur.is

E

arly in Iceland’s history, Stykkishólmur became an important trading post thanks to its´ natural harbour location. The charismatic coastal town and municipality is situated in the northern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula and serves as a gateway to Breiðafjörður and Flatey in the Western part of Iceland.

Narfeyrarstofa Restaurant AÐALGATA 3, 340 STYKKISHÓLMUR www.narfeyrarstofa.is

A

fter you’ve explored the surroundings, head to Narfeyrarstofa for a meal. This pearl in the center of Stykkishólmur and is open all year round, although the menu and opening hours follow the seasonal changes. Enjoying a well-deserved reputation of quality and success, Narfeyrarstofa offers divine dishes, exceptional service and a great atmosphere.

Library of Water BÓKHLÖÐUSTÍGUR 17, 340 STYKKISHÓLMUR www.artangel.org.uk/project/library-of-water

O

verlooking the coastal town Stykkishólmur and the ocean, melted water from Iceland’s glacier mass is

portrayed. This phenomenal exhibition was created 2007 entanglement with the immediate culture, climate and geography of Iceland.

Flatey Island

O

nce you have explored Stykkishólmur, it’s time to hop on a boat. The Ferry Baldur sails from the coastal town of Stykkishólmur to Flatey, which is distinguished by its birdlife, alluring surroundings and the fascinating fact that in the winter season the total number of inhabitants is only 5. The ferry operates during the summer time and is a novel way of travelling; arriving in Flatey feels like travelling back in time, no cars are allowed and the stillness of the island soothes all senses. This is a perfect destination for explorers eager to discover the remote areas of Iceland.

129

Westfjords 130

66. 0611° N

www.westfjords.is

T

dramatic and well-preserved nature, famous for its breathtaking landscapes. Take advice from the locals before embarking on the journey as the unpaved roads and extremely steep hills can make the journey challenging, but one thing is for sure: this scenery is something you will never forget.

Being the largest municipality in the Westfjords Peninsula, the town Isafjördur hosts a variety of restaurants and

accommodation, as well as some of the most popular music festivals in Iceland such as "Aldrei fór ég Suður". Whether its horseback-riding, sightseeing or bird-watching. As Ísafjörður is subject to sub-arctic winters, some of the attractions are limited during the winter season. The more brave and sporty shouldn’t miss out on the European championship in Swamp soccer, which is held once a year in Isafjördur. This popular competition will leave you covered in mud from head to toe, yet with a large smile which is not easy to wipe off.

Hornstandir

S

afely tucked away, Hornstrandir nature reserve is considered one of the most remote places in Europe, where true wilderness thrives. Unspoiled nature and distinctive silence, give the traveller a glimpse back to the times before modern conveniences. Due to its fragile vegetation, this area has some of the strictest preservation rules in the country and for reasons of safety it is also strictly off limits during the winter season. One can easily get from Isafjördur to Hornstrandir with a ferry in the summer period.

LĂĄtrabjarg

A

rope’s largest bird cliff, home to birds in unfathomable numbers. This astonishing place is captivating; you can look lence (wind and birds notwithstanding). With photographic opportunities everywhere it is good to be aware that the cliff is extremely steep and the frail ledges can shatter. The fall is high: 441 meters of a vertical drop to be exact.

131

Dynjandi Waterfall

C

onsidered by many to be the most beautiful waterfall in Iceland, it is actually a series of seven waterfalls disN

which angle you look at Dynjandi, far down or at the symmetric top tier after hiking up, its views are grandiose.

Latvia

56.9496° N Capital: Riga

W

rapped around the Gulf of Riga sits a country of mystery and art. Latvia delivers bohemian chic effortlessly. The capital Riga N by. Make sure to visit the Riga Opera House and take a stroll in some of the charming parks.

Yet with all its history, Riga feels young and vibrant. These days many of its grand buildings are home to hip coffee places, bars and design shops. There is a sense of lightness and a relaxed atmosphere in the air, which extends beyond the Latvian capital. Take time to explore the coastline, as well as the picturesque small towns hidden between the country’s rolling

135

Riga Justine Kaleja

T

he one thing I love about Riga is its diversity. Colourful neighbourhoods, dynamic architecture, a lot of water spots, beautiful bridges, green parks, great museums, charming places and so on. Riga is alive, dynamic and worth exploring.

I spend a lot of my time outside Riga (either working or having outdoor adventures somewhere in the nature), but when I decide to stay, just a bike ride through the city and great coffee is needed to make me feel like the happiest person in Riga. I usually grab a coffee at Innocent Café, Miit or Rocket Bean Roastery. Why? Because I believe in passion and these guys loooove coffee.

Just biking through Riga and seeing the real city is amazing, but there is one place in particular I can suggest to experience – the promenade next to the Spikeri quarter. It’s one of the most beautiful public spaces in the city, which runs by the Daugava River’s right bank. You will meet locals and foreigners here, see the most beautiful sunsets, catch the biggest wind and enjoy different city landscapes. It’s a great place for walking and jogging, skateboarding, riding a bike or just doing nothing but watching waves in the river and laughing with friends. In the Spikeri quarter a lot of events

Riga is particularly charming in the warm spring and summer evenings, when every occasion feels more special.

One place, where you may celebrate something or nothing more than just seeing friends, is Valmiermuiza Beer Embassy in Riga. It’s a place for the best selection of Latvian beers (especially amazing craft beers from Valmiermuiza itself) and to taste food that comes from Latvian nature and seasons. The chef Dzintars Kristovskis is the ambassador of the European Region of Gastranomy 2017, which is the Riga-Gauja region in Latvia. This place is my favourite not only for its great drinks and local food but the atmosphere, where everything that you hear in the evening is happy people talking and laughing.

Innocent Café:

www.facebook.com/innocentcafe Miit:

www.facebook.com/miit.tiim Rocket Bean Roastery:

www.facebook.com/RocketBeanRoastery Spikeri Quarter

www.facebook.com/spikeri Luzumpunkts:

www.facebook.com/rigaslaivas Valmiermuiza Beer Embassy in Riga:

and more. In the end of the riverside there is a neighbourhood Andrejsala (the pier), where you can rent a kayak from the adventure organization Luzumpunkts to explore the Daugava River and its half-islands. It’s a beautiful adventure in the city and it’s so much fun. Don’t forget to grab some sandwiches, coffee and have a picnic just by the river!

www.facebook.com/ValmiermuizaRiga

JUSTINE KALEJA WORKS IN MARKETING IN RIGA, WITH A PASSION FOR CREATING FOOD AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURES.

where to stay?

Riga

Bergs ELIZABETES 83/85, RIGA www.hotelbergs.lv

138

Q

uietly tucked away in a courtyard a few steps from the Riga Art Nouveau district, lies a true gem – Bergs Hotel. This glamorous 5-star hotel is perfect for those looking for a luxurious getaway or for a conference on the top views. While Bergs offers a multitude of services, it still manages to feel warm and private. The Bergs restaurant downstairs is perfect for a business lunch, as well as a gourmet dinner. The hotel is situated around the corner from exploring. Once you get tired of the shopping, grab an afternoon glass of wine on the hotel summer terrace or in the beautiful hotel lounge.

Seagulls Garret Hostel VALNU IELA 41, RIGA www.sghostel.eu

O

n the edge of the Riga Old Town sits Seagulls Garret Hostel. The hostel offers affordable accommodation with a charming interior and a terrace overlooking the rooftops of the historical buildings of Riga. The location includes private rooms as well as dorms, a fully equipped kitchen and large common rooms.

Neiburgs JAUNIELA 25, RIGA www.neiburgs.com

T

o get a sense of this stylish Art Nouveau hotel, one has to simply look at its stunning external architecture.

back to its beginning of the 20th century glory. This boutique hotel offers self-contained apartment rooms, with fully equipped kitchens. However, if you don’t feel up for

139

cooking yourself, step downstairs to the Neiburgs restauand its modern Latvian cuisine, you would be excused for not wanting to ever move from the hotel. If you do however decide to venture outdoors, head to the Latvian National Opera and Ballet nearby. If not for the world-class repertoire, its lavish interiors are enough to make the trip worthwhile.

where to eat?

Riga

3 Pavaru JACOB'S BARRACKS, TORNA IELA 4,RIGA www.3pavari.lv

140

W

hile the 3 Pavaru restaurant is located in the historying on the edge of the Old Town, its cuisine is anything but dated. As you sit down, you’re faced with a table arrangement, which doubles as condiments for the fresh bread, as well as an art piece. The dishes are contemporary, combining local ingredients with a global touch. The interior complements the food, with its blue and yellow tones and pristine original features.

Muusu SKÃRNU IELA 6, RIGA www.muusu.lv

I

nconspicuously lined up on the streets of Riga Old Town sits a real treasure - Muusu. As you step in you can’t help but be taken in by the warmth of this location. With a piano in the restaurant for the more musically talented guests, and its spiralling wooden staircases, the location has an almost familiar atmosphere. The food plays to the same notes: while its ingredients are simple, its combinations

Ferma Restorans VALKAS IELA 7, RIGA www.fermarestorans.lv

F

erma, a relative newcomer on the Riga food scene, has already won the hearts of many locals. The focus is on serving Latvian cuisine with a modern twist. The atmosphere is relaxed, yet effortlessly stylish. Located opposite the Viesturdārzs Park, and with its summer terrace and a fect for a warm evening in the city. If you are looking for a more personal gastronomical experience, book the Chef’s Table, where you and your friends are welcomed to learn more about the gastronomic methods of Ferma in a personal conversation with the people behind the restaurant.

141

Mr. Fox DZIRNAVU IELA 34A, RIGA www.mrfox.lv

142

F

resh, healthy and delicious - perfect for a spot of lunch or a healthy breakfast. Mr. Fox is situated in the Art Nouveau district of Riga, with the interior perfectly mixing classical details with bright and playful elements. The food is prepared from local products in season, with dishes also for vegans and people observing a gluten-free diet.

The menu includes stir-fry & wok dishes, breakfast bowls and pancakes as well as delicious smoothies and day-cakes/ tartes tailor-made by the arbOOz confectionary.

where to have a coffee?

Riga

MIIT Coffee LACPLEĹ A IELA 10, RIGA www.miitcoffee.com

M

IIT offers a coffee selection from small farms and cooperatives from Ethiopia, Columbia, Kenya, Guatemala and more. You can select between various preparation methods such as V60, aeropress, French press and chemex. But MIIT is about much more than coffee. The place offers excellent vegetarian lunches, dinners and brunches. In the evenings MIIT turns into a lively spot for those craving a coffee and something stronger alike.

The Rocket Bean Roastery 144

MIERA IELA 29, RIGA www.rocketbean.lv

T

he Rocket Bean Rostery was founded by a group of coffee-lovers back in 2013. Situated in an old sock factory on Miera Street, the location is the perfect setting for a stylish roaster and eatery. Supplying green coffee from around the world and delicious treats to go with your cup.

where to drink?

Riga

Garage BERGA BAZARS, ELIZABETES STREET 83/85, RIGA www.vinabars.lv

G

arage is a wine bar situated next to the Bergs hotel. It’s a perfect spot for tapas and a glass of wine from the extensive Garage wine menu. The tapas are matched perfectly to the wine suggestions and the interior creates the perfectly sophisticated atmosphere.

145

Piens Bar ARISTIDA BRIANA IELA 11, RIGA www.klubspiens.lv

A

cab-ride away from the city centre is the cocktail bar Pi-

renovated 19th century brewery is certainly worth the trip.

146

mixing with funky 60s and modern furniture. Head over for a relaxed drink or stay late and enjoy the evening while the from here.

Kanepes Cultural Centre SKOLAS IELA 15, RIGA www.kanepes.lv

K

anepes Culture Centre is a bit of everything – it’s a bar, club, music venue and an overall gathering spot for likeminded people. The centre is housed in a grand townhouse, which looks like its landed from an alternative century into the middle of a modern city. The place has a large terrace, sive external sculpture and eclectic interior the place feels eccentric and perfect for a drink and an intellectual debate.

what to see? latvia

Kim? Contemporary Art Centre SPORTA IELA 2, RIGA www.kim.lv

K

im? Contemporary Art Centre was founded in 2009.

The name of kim? is no less than an abbreviation of an insistent question “what is art?” (“kas ir māksla?” in Latvian).

The organisation offers a range of activities such as exhibitions, lectures, discussions, a library, publications and other events related to recent art, theory and social issues introduced by means of local and international corpus of ideas, beliefs and individuals.

Spikeri Creative District MASKAVAS IELA 6, RIGA www.spikeri.lv

T

his restored quarter of 19th century warehouses on the Riga river bank, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has been renovated into a home for cultural organisations,

Old Town and enjoy some panoramic views of the Riga TV tower and new National Library on the opposite side.

Latvian National Museum of Art JANA ROZENTALA LAUKUMS 1, RIGA www.lnmm.lv

148

T

he recently renovated Latvian National Museum of Art is hard to miss. This grand statuesque building stands proudly between Riga old town and the Elizabetes area, also known as Riga’s Art Nouveau district. The museum has a permanent display of Latvian art from the 19th century all the way through to the 2000s, as well as changing contemporary exhibitions. The revamped building showcases its stunning original architecture from 1905, as well as a new wing covered in impressive glass structures, with the new modern features such as a gold-embossed cubic staircase, perfectly melting together the old and the new.

Ezera Skanas Festival www.ezeraskanas.lv

3

0 km from Riga lies Kāla Ezers (Kāla Lake). Every sum-

the unique festival Ezera Skanas (Lake Sounds). Ezera Skanas is a musical, visual and metaphysical event that starts before the sunrise - 5:00 AM. Events unfold on the stage in the middle of the lake. It is momentary in its nature. It resembles a dream with its misty dawn setting. The artists

to enjoy the nature, and the sounds surrounding it.

48h getaway?

CEsis 57.3086° N

A

n hour and a half away from Riga, Cēsis is the perfect destination for a short getaway. This small town of 18 000 people has a rich history and a relaxed atmosphere. While in the past the town has been a home to the Livonian knights and some of the biggest military battles of Baltic history, these days Cē fes, peaceful parks and visitors looking for a break from the big city buzz. What remains from the city’s unruly past are the cobbled streets, historical houses and its imposing Cēsis Castle ruins. Take time to explore the greenery of the city, check out the recently renovated Cēsis Concert Hall and enjoy one of the many concerts in the city.

149

Gludas Grava GLUDAS IELA 6A, CESIS www.gludasgrava.lv

A

ēsis, Glūdas Grava offers modern accommodation within a relaxed atmosphere. The location also offers a bike rental service, so you can make the most of the lush green meadows surrounding the city. With no reception in the hotel, booking online is essential.

Art Space Mala

150

LIELA SKOLAS IELA 4, CESIS www.facebook.com/telpamala

A

rt Space Mala is an eclectic spot. This wooden location serves as a stop for a simple and tasty local meal & a coffee after you have walked around the city. It’s an art space, a concert venue and a design store. Mala was established by a group of creative minds seeking to combine all aspects of the arts in one space. The result is a bohemian venue with a vintage feel, which draws you in with its ambience.

Zala Zale RIGAS IELA 25, CESIS www.facebook.com/zalazale

Z

ala Zale is another CÄ“sis gem, which serves organic beef burgers, Italian wines, locally roasted coffee and beer in the backdrop of vinyl records and live music. The venue has a rustic & vintage feel to it and its courtyard is the perfect location for relaxing on a summer afternoon.

Fonoklubs RIGAS IELA 47, CESIS www.fonoklubs.lv

A

fter a day of touring the city and some dinner, its time to head to Fonoklubs. This local bar is the place to be for anyone looking for a lively venue with a great mix of people and music genres. In the summers the venue´s gigs move outdoors, turning the place into a local outdoor nightlife hub.

lithuania

54.6891° N Capital:Vilnius

L

mined land. With one of the fastest growing economies in the European Union, Lithuania is on the move. The whole country holds an entrepreneurial feeling, with a focus on growing new businesses and innovating enterprises.

Yet with all this focus on metropolitan ventures, Lithuanians hold a close connection to the wilderness. Similar to its Baltic Sea neighbours, nature has a special meaning to people from these ends of the European woods. And with its ancient forests and stunning coastline along the Curonian Spit, its not hard to see why.

155

Vilnius Dominykas Karpovic

V

ilnius is the place where intellectual potential and everyday bustle is in harmony with cosiness and nostalgic landscapes of the city.

Some days start with an early morning breakfast in the city centre, let’s say at St. Valentino, ordering a buckwheat porridge. Or experiencing the delight of a perfect egg Benedict at Stebuklai, situated next to the Parliament.

In the weekends we like to head out to secluded, yet comfortably civilised, places to inhale fresher air and lay our eyes on a slowly shivering horizon. Such experiences can be fully embraced at IDW Esperanza, which is about 40 minutes drive from Vilnius. In the event of a longer get-away-weekend, we would always choose Šturmų rant, overlooking the Curonian Spit, is where simplicity transforms into perfection.

To me personally, lunch is the most unpredictable meal of my day, therefore, I usually stand by my two favourite options: Vegafe where every detail of the environment is setup to make you feel so relaxed, and Leleko restaurant. My tip: never order the “business lunch”, better go with the menu options. You will wait longer but it will be worth it.

Last but not least - my hometown Palanga is where we go more often. It blossoms in the springtime and has the most breath-taking fall moments. The early autumn is when you want to walk in the botanic garden, it becomes an explosion

I am very keen on the idea that mornings are the essential part of your day, they have a certain magical aura about them, whereas, evenings are a bit powerless and blunt to me. When I choose to go out for dinner or drinks later at night, I tend to

ė is a straight-to-the-holiday mood path. This is what I believe is worth experiencing. Subjectively by all means. Nevertheless, I hope it will help you indulge into the everyday-ness of Lithuania.

glass with a stream of intrinsic value embedded in the location’s DNA. Saint Germain is the best place for delicious food and a lovely chat. Newer places in town - Trattoria da Flavio and Ti’ana - are different in context, but share the same much appreciated customer service and a focus on exquisite taste.

Trattoria is a true Italian homey restaurant with straightfrom-Italy ingredients. Ti’ana, on the other hand, is a posh metropolitan place for a delicious octopus salad or beef tartare. You may close your night in the city with perfectly tailored cocktails at the bar Alchemikas. My all time favourite “The Old Fashioned” with an extra dash of angostura bitters.

St. Valentino: www.stvalentino.lt Stebuklai: www.facebook.com/stebuklai.restoranas Vegafe:www.facebook.com/vegafe-449558878424742 Leleko: www.facebook.com/lelekorestoranas Saint Germain: www.saintgermain.lt Trattoria da Flavio: www.trattoriadaflavio.lt Alchemikas: www.facebook.com/bar.

are few. Pleasant pampering at Palanga SPA luxury and

alchemikas/?rf=117820371747086 Ti’ana: www.facebook.com/tiana-restoranas-1631233670422598 Tamsta: www.tamstaclub.lt IDW Esperanza: www.idwesperanzaresort.com Šturmų švyturys: www.sturmusvyturys.lt/hotelrestaurant-330 Palanga SPA Luxury: www.luxury.palangahotel.lt ė: www.facebook.com/vilazvaigzde

DOMINYKAS DESCRIBES HIMSELF AS “A HUMAN BEING SHAPED BY PHILOSOPHICAL MINDSET AND ENTREPRENEURIAL CURIOSITY”. TOGETHER WITH PARTNERS HE HAS LAUNCHED VENTURES SUCH AS THE STRATEGY AND INNOVATION ADVISORY GROUP “HOMO EMINENS”, INNOVATIVE FEEDBACK PLATFORM “SYPE”, LUXURY FASHION HOUSE “HOUSE OF FAIGE” AND MORE.

where to stay?

Vilnius

Artagonist Hotel PILIES G. 34, VILNIUS www.artagonist.lt

158

A

rtagonist Art Hotel is a must for anyone looking for a chic stay in the Old Town of Vilnius. The hotel is housed in a 15th century building, with the traditional backdrop being mixed with a touch of contemporary and the eccentric. The hotel is decorated with pieces by Lithuanian artists, featuring paintings, murals and sculptures.

With the whole hotel feeling like a grand art installation itself, downstairs offering an a la carte menu, as well as a bar overlooking Pilies street- you wouldn’t be blamed for not wanting to leave the place. Once you venture outside, take a walk to the Town Hall Square, St. John Church and Cathedral Square – all just a few minutes walk away.

Comfort Hotel LT Rock’n’roll KAUNO G. 14, VILNIUS www.comforthotel.lt

W

alking distance away from the Vilnius Old Town, is a hotel with a music theme and its own rock station.

Comfort Hotel Rock’n’roll feels contemporary while paying tribute to some of the rock’n’roll heavyweights such as the Beatles and the Rolling Stones. The hotel offers free organic breakfast, free coffee around the clock and a downstairs gym restaurant TIME downstairs. The food at Time is inspired by contemporary Nordic cuisine and its ingredients are locallysourced. The menu includes fresh salads, a selection of pasta,

159

160

Fabrika Hostel and Gallery A. VIENUOLIO G. 4, VILNIUS www.fabrikahostel.com

F

abrika Hostel & Gallery is the more affordable option for a stay in Vilnius. It is located just off the lively Gediminas Avenue, making it the perfect spot for making the most of your stay in the city. With so many buildings, coffee places and shops to explore, you’ll hardly have time to stay indoors. Fabrika offers a full range of services, and also functions as an art space.

where to eat? lithuania

Kitchen DIDŽIOJI G. 11, VILNIUS www.inthekitchen.lt

T

lessly contemporary menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, such as pastas, risottos, quiches, salads and soups.

The setting with its communal tables feels relaxed and is perfect for a light lunch or a dinner with friends. In the summer, the restaurant opens up to a balcony overlooking the Vilnius street life.

161

Ciop Ciop ŽVEJU G. 2, VILNIUS www.ciopciop.lt

162

F

or a completely different dinner experience you should head to Ciop Ciop. The restaurant offers a wide array of different cooking courses, so you can combine a dinner out with a chance to brush up on your cooking skills.

With branches also in Kaunas and Klaipeda, and the opening of its own winery, Ciop Ciop is starting its own culinary movement of sorts. Book in advance for one of the cookup dinners or a larger party with friends. Its restaurant in Vilnius is located on the picturesque Neris riverside, with a terrace for enjoying summer evenings overlooking the historic architecture of Vilnius.

Dublis TRAKU G. 14, VILNIUS www.dublis.eu

I

to Dublis on Trakų Street. The interior is minimalist and stylish, with a cool and clean feel. The menu is Scandinavian-inspired and the dishes deliver not only in taste but also visually. This restaurant has been named as one of the top restaurants in the country. It serves quick lunches, weekend’s brunches, tasting dinners as well as the evening’s a la carte menu. For a break of coffee and a slice of cake, stop by the Dublis Brasserie, perfect for a small celebration during the day.

where to have a coffee?

Vilnius

Sviezia Kava

by Huracan Coffee VOKIECIU G. 15, VILNIUS www.huracan.lt

P

art of a larger coffee movement in Vilnius by the coffee brand Huracan Coffee, this industrial café in Vilnius Old Town feels modern and vibrant. Its stylish brass interior, mixed with wood, impresses but leaves room for the main act – the coffee itself. Open from early hours til late,

looking for a pick-me-up on their tour of the city.

Crooked Nose & Coffee Stories ŠALTINIU G. 20, VILNIUS www.crooked-nose.com

A

must-stop for coffee enthusiasts visiting Vilnius. Expect freshly roasted micro batches of different world beans and an array of preparation methods. The location feels fresh and minimal with wooden structures and greenery adding to the atmosphere. Coffee education is taken seriously here: sign up for one of the coffee tastings or head down to the yearly coffee conference called Dark Times.

where to drink?

Vilnius

Peronas GELEŽINKELIO G. 6, VILNIUS www.facebook.com/peronasbaras

164

P

street is a bustling bar on the edge of the city’s train rails.

Housed in an old train station the bar feels effortlessly cool and buzzing with the young population of Vilnius. The eclectic interior mixed with fairy lights provides the perfect creatives and live music.

Distilerija VILNIAUS G. 28, VILNIUS www.distilerija.lt

D

istilerija is more than just a distillery, it’s a bar and a hangout spot for the trendy folk of Vilnius. Its industrial metal and sleek interiors give it a metropolitan loft feeling with plenty of space. In the weekends the place turns into a busy cocktail bar with dj sets. Make sure to try one of their own beers and keep an eye out also for one of their Sunday dj brunches.

In Vino AUĹ ROS VARTU G. 7, VILNIUS www.invino.lt

I

f cocktails are not your thing and beer leaves you cold, the you should head over to In Vino, known for their excellent choice of wine and accompanying cheeses. While the wine bar itself is rather small and the interior kept to a minimal, In Vino impresses with its cosy courtyard in the heart of the Vilnius Old Town. On a warm summer night In Vino transforms this part of Vilnius into a Mediterranean dream.

165

Baras Kablys KAUNO G. 5, VILNIUS www.mankablys.lt

C

oncerts, club nights, drinks, impressive architecture and food- Baras Kablys has it all. A worthwhile destination for anyone interested in nightlife and eager to check out the local Vilnius club scene. The building is divided into different areas, depending on your mood you can either in” in one of the club and bar areas. On Fridays and SaturVilnius, eager to celebrate the weekend. The 300 squaremeter complex with its imposing pillars is sure to leave you entertained.

166

Opium Club ISLANDIJOS G. 4, VILNIUS www.opiumclub.lt

O

pium Club is one of the more prominent techno and house music venues in Vilnius. With an impressive soundsystem, geometrical structure interiors and imposing

of an ambiguous bar and gives little away from the outside.

Expect a stern “face-check” on the door. Once you make it in, get ready for a party until the early hours of the morning.

what to see?

Vilnius

Bernardinu Sodas B. RADVILAITES G. 8A, VILNIUS 167

B

ernardinai Garden is a public park in Vilnius, located on the grounds of an ancient pagan oak forest. Ever since it was founded by a group of monks in the 14th century, it has seen a turbulent history sweep across it. The park has recently had a complete renovation and is open to all walks of life. Whether you are looking for a morning run spot, a day out with the kids or a lazy afternoon exploring the botanies of the garden, this green haven in the middle of the city has a little bit for everyone.

Art Factory Loftas ŠVITRIGAILOS STR. 29, NAUJAMIESTIS, VILNIUS www.menufabrikas.lt

L 168

oftas is an event & concert venue, a festival and a discussion on the future of the music industry. It’s a movement exploring the local Lithuanian cultural scene and Europe as a whole. Besides events linked to music, the venue also hosts the yearly innovation conference Whats Next?, as well as the fashion and design fair Uptown Market. Visit the Loftas homepage to explore their full range of events.

Arts Printing House ŠILTADARŽIO G. 6, VILNIUS www.menuspaustuve.lt

T

he Arts Printing House is a performing arts centre, housed in an old printing house dating back to 1585. The current centre was set up 2002, formally transforming the historical building into a space for theatrical, contemporary dance, new circus, interdisciplinary and educational projects.

Open Kitchen Street Food Market in UĹžupis TYMO TURGUS, AUKĹ TAICIU G. / MAIRONIO G.,VILNIUS www.openkitchen.lt

O

pen Kitchen is a street food market, organised every Friday during the summer in a lovely outdoor market

different restaurants offering food, the place is perfect for lunch or for afterwork snacks and beer. The market also includes activities like foosball, live music and exhibitions. lent history of its own: once home to the Lithuanian Jewish community, after WW2 the area became a neglected district for those living on the edges of society. Soon enough the bohemian, young and restless started moving in. Today number of art centres, cafes and bars bubbling with energy.

48h getaway?

Nida 55. 3030° N

F 170

or a weekend of seaside air and beautiful sandy landscapes, jump in a car, brave the ferry waves and land on the Curonian Spit – a UNESCO World Heritage site for its natural N with its traditional wooden houses and beachside trails, is the perfect location for bohemian artists looking for an inspiration escape, as well as the families looking for a beach holiday.

If its artistic inspiration and collaboration you are after, head to the Nida Art Colony. Surrounded by pine trees and run by the Vilnius Academy of Arts, it’s a creative gathering spot, providing space for workshops, intensive courses, exhibitions, seminars, rehearsals, artists’ talks and screenings on its premises of 2,500 square meters. The architecture of the colony in itself is inspirational, with its mixtures of old & new, wood & metal, red & black tones.

For a bohemian adventure and to explore some concrete functionalist architecture, head over to Plunksna. It’s a creative guesthouse, which also hosts a wine bar In Vino on its rooftop, with great views across the Nida nature. If you are travelling with family, book one of the self-contained apartments at Preilos Krantas on the calming coastline. Once you have taken a stroll down the stunning Nida sand dunes and explored the cute traditional red-housed streets, head over to the trendy BO House Restaurant for some local cuisine and drinks. Make sure to also check out the Varna terrace, as well as the Mr Snob Greenhouse restaurant on the waterfront.

www.nidacolony.lt www.plunksna.eu www.invino.lt www.preiloskrantas.lt www.facebook.com/bohousenida www.facebook.com/varna.terasa www.facebook.com/mrsnobgreenhouse

171

norway

59.9139° N Capital: oslo

F

acing the north Atlantic head-on, Norway has historically had to hold resolve against the odds. Undaunted by the stunning adversity its geography has presented. The chill from the Arctic - the ravishing northern winds from the west whistling between the deep crevasses of rock through the fjord and into the remote valleys. Norwegians hold a close and respectful approach to the natural drama around them.

The silence of space, the light across the glacial formations and the ethereal stillness across mountainous terrain all conjure strength and N with a rich belief in pragmatism and equality. New architectural standpoints in Oslo, the electronic music emanating from Bergen and Tromsø, teamed with a coastline of curated architecture and infrastructure, blending art and engineering, mark a renewed solidity. Draw in the landscape contrasts by taking an escape just outside of our region and dipping your toe just above the Arctic Circle with a weekend in the Lofoten Islands.

175

oslo nils bech

S

tart your day at Bristol, a hotel located in the city centre, with a charming old school brunch restaurant. You can order traditional Norwegian sandwiches like «karbonadesmørbrød» while drinking sparkling wine or order an English tea menu, and if you're lucky they also have someone at the piano. Around the corner is my favorite spot in like entering a worn down disco, like they used to be in the 80’s and 90’s on the Scandinavian ferrys- the boats that Norwegians take to Copenhagen or Germany to buy cheap tax-free. The basement, also a bit worn out, is a traditional pub with a pool table and jukebox, I think they want it to look like a traditional English pub, hence the name, and in some ways it does - it’s an extremely welcoming place.

For drinks me and my friends always go to our regular bar, Bar Robinet, I think it’s the smallest bar in Oslo, also a bit worn out, but with a nice interior and an iconic art piece by the Norwegian artist Pushwagner, who used to be a regular there back in the days. The music is extremely eclectic, and it I used to work there every Wednesday for two years many years ago and have been a regular at both London Pub and Bar Robinet since I was in my 20’s. For me this bar is the best bar in the world. They do some cocktails and stuff, but if you are picky with your drinks or only drink dripped coffee and that kind of stuff, you should try somewhere else like Fuglen.

Kunstnernes Hus is an art institution next to the casa beautiful functionalist building built in 1931 and is worth a vist even if the art space is closed. They have a great terrace and a lovely pizza place in the hall. I also recommend Den

Franske Sal at the National Gallery for lunch and if you are into organic food and afraid of getting a cold I would stop by the café at Doga’s Funky Fresh Food, for a ginger shot and a so I wouldn’t know if the food is great at any of these places, but for the atmosphere alone go to the Theater Cafén next to the National Theater for dinner or Lorry’s located just

For culture I would go to the art centre Henie Onstad, it’s a the travel, located by the fjord, with a beautiful permanent sculpture graden and an exciting exhibition program including a lot of amazing concerts. The centre was build by the Norwegian ice skating queen Sonia Henie and opened it 1968. If the weather is nice, you could also go for a swim there is a lovely little beach at the property. I would also recommend my friends Ida Ekblad, Marie-Alix Isdahl Voisin and Matias Faldbakken’s new gallery Schloss at Grünerløkka. It’s quite close to the botanical garden at Tøyen. And if you happen to visit Oslo during the summer you have to take the fer-

Kristian IV's gate 7, Oslo London Pub: www.londonpub.no

Mariboes gate 7, Oslo www.kunstnerneshus.no Universitetsgata 13, Oslo www.funkyfreshfoods.no www.theatercafeen.com Lorry’s: www.lorry.no Henie Onstad: www.henieonstadsanatorium.no Schloss: www.schloss.no

NILS BECH IS A NORWEGIAN ARTIST. A FORMER OPERA SINGER, HE RELEASED HIS FOURTH ALBUM “ECHO” IN 2016 AND HAS BEEN FEATURED ON THE HIT NORWEGIAN TV SERIES SKAM, WITH HIS COVER OF “OH HOLY NIGHT” FOR THE SHOW BECOMING AN OVERNIGHT VIRAL SENSATION.

where to stay? oslo

Hotel Christiania Teater 178

STORTINGSGATA 16, OSLO www.christianiateater.com

T

he gilded and mirrored splendour of the Hotel Christiana Teater is elegantly situated in a building from 1917.

The listed building, which used to be a theatre and hotel, was renovated in early 2016 and lies in the heart of Oslo just around the corner from the main thoroughfare Karl Johan. The wine bar offers an unrivalled amount of 1400 distinct bottles of wine to choose from. The plush lounge and entrance lobby is a great place to relax just before a play at the colonnaded National theatre.

Camilla´s Hus PARKVEIEN 31, OSLO www.camillashus.no

179

J

ust behind the Royal Palace Gardens lies Camilla´s Hus offering seven unique rooms by the interior designer Tine Ramstad. The house is named after a former tenant, the author and women´s rights activist Camilla Collet, who wrote the novel Amtmannens Daughters. The Steen family has renovated and refurbished the buildings to cultural There is even the possibility of booking the whole hotel.

Smart Hotel ST. OLAVS GATE 26, OSLO www.smarthotel.no

I

f you're on a budget, stay at Smart Hotel. The hotel is modern and covers all the essentials without fuss.

where to eat? oslo

Maaemo SCHWEIGAARDS GATE 15B, OSLO www.maaemo.no

180

E

sben Holmboe Bang at Maaemo illustrates the Norwegian cultural landscape and natural experience through distinct culinary expression. Receiving a third Michelin star in 2016, it has reached a rare awarded excellence. The extensive tasting menu lays out the Norwegian wilderness in haunting beauty. A closeness to the natural source is tangible in preparation and pairing.

Kontrast MARIDALSVEIEN 15, OSLO www.restaurant-kontrast.no

K

ontrast represents modern Scandinavian cuisine. A presentation based on locally-sourced and available organic ingredients. Mikael Svensson has focused on what the region has to offer, gathering a delight of specialities.

Kontrast has one star in the Michelin guide.

Piscoteket BASTUGATA 1, OSLO www.piscoteket.no

C

eviche holds a certain closeness to Norwegians, prepa-

the salmon, it was natural for Oslo to have a hip Peruvian restaurant. Why didn't Piscoteket arrive earlier?

181

Fiskeriet Youngstorget YOUNGSTORGET 2, OSLO www.fiskeriet.com

M

arius Brandl was the interior architect in charge of this

Spain or Italy, where you can have a glass of wine with your frøya scallops. Placed on Youngstorget, the view outside gives you a chance to while away the afternoon, or pick up ingredients for a dinner later if you don't stay for food here.

No table reservations are taken so you can just drop in.

Mathallen Oslo VULKAN 5, OSLO www.mathallenoslo.no

182

O

n the bank of the river Akerselva a new neighbourhood has sprung up. This is where Mathallen is located. The food hall is an indoor market with 30 speciality shops selling local produce from Norwegian small scale producers combined with a restaurant, cafes and eateries.

where to have a coffee? oslo

Tim Wendelboe GRÜNER GATE 1, GRÜNERLØKA/AKERSELVA, OSLO www.timwendelboe.no

T

im Wendelboe has been in the coffee business for 20 years - ten with his own concern in Oslo. He owns a biological coffee farm in Columbia called Finca el Suelo, so takes the business and production of coffee seriously.

If you value coffee this is a good place to start to introduce yourself to the Norwegian love of coffee.

Java ULLEVÅLSVEIEN 47, OSLO www.javaoslo.no

I

n the beautiful St Hanshaugen district of Oslo Ullesvålsvein serves many great options for coffee, brunch, pastries and wines. A good start to the day with large windows, high ceilings and the green tiled walls - your morning will feel fresh before it has truly begun.

Fuglen UNIVERSITETSGATA 2, OSLO www.fuglen.no

184

F

uglen, meaning "bird", is a cafĂŠ and a cocktail bar, which has existed since 1963. Sourcing coffee from four of Oslo's roasteries, the coffee and tea shop also specialises in Asian tea selections. The other speciality is the retro vintage interior, gathering the best of the 50s and the 60s.

Fuglen also has a branch in Japan.

Rouleur ULLEVĂ…LSVEIEN 16A, OSLO www.rosl.no

R

ouleur is a spot for coffee, cocktails and bikes. A selection of wine, excellent gin&tonics and a fully manual Strietman espresso machine ensuring a shot or two, while you await service done on your bicycle.

where to drink? oslo

Sentralen Gold Bar Ă˜VRE SLOTTSGATE 3, OLSO www.sentralen.no/en/food-and-drinks/bar-extravagant

T

he Gold Bar is part of the Sentralen complex and only open for special evenings (check their Facebook for when they're next open). The interior is decorated with details from the banks' long history, and in collaboration with Fuglen, given a unique setting. Sentralen opened in spring 2016 and operates as a workshop and performance venue focused on culture and innovation.

185

Chair THORVALD MEYERS GATE 45, OSLO www.chairoslo.no

I

f a wide selection of premium gin to mix with your tonic is what you are after, then Chair is your place. Another Grünerløkka haunt known for their Thursday night real and variety will serve every taste.

The Villa MØLLERGATA 23-25, OSLO www.thevilla.no

I 186

f there is one place to dance in Oslo, it is the Villa. Celebrating its tenth anniversary in spring 2017 it is still going strong. The combination of the dj line-up, quality sound-system and innovative light design keep the Villa at the center of the Oslo club culture.

Nedre Løkka Cocktailbar THORVALD MEYERS GATE 89, OSLO www.nedrelokka.com

A

new incarnation for the building since December 2016, Nedre Løkka cocktail bar and lounge is another welcome addition the area of Grünerløkka in the north brick and plush padding has utilised the space well, making it the perfect place to start or end the evening in this humming neighbourhood.

what to see? oslo

Operahuset KIRSTEN FLAGSTADS PLASS 1, OSLO www.operaen.no

T

he new Oslo Opera House, designed by Snøhetta at the foot of the old Bjørvika harbour, is part of one of the largest regeneration programmes in Europe. The knock-on effects of Fjord City are still being seen as the entire stretch of harbour, with the head of the Oslofjord remodelled.

Since 2008 when the Opera House opened, it has become the landmark of Oslo internationally. On the other side, the plans for the relocation of the Munch Museum, the new Oslo public library and the Stenersen Museum move forward.

187

Vigeland Sculpture Park NOBELS GATE 32, OSLO www.vigeland.museum.no/no/vigelandsparken 188

T

here is nothing like Vigeland Sculpture Park - a true labour of love for Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943), it took ten years to create. The 212 bronze, cast iron and granite sculptures literally dance through the park. The sculptures culminate at the Monolith of climbing naked bodies. The park is open all year round making multiple visits in different seasons a treasure to behold, as the refracted light moves over the different forms.

Nobel Peace Centre BRYNJULF BULLS PLASS 1, OSLO www.nobelpeacecenter.org

T

he Nobel Peace Centre tells the story of the Nobel Peace Prize awarded in Oslo every year. The museum uses interactive technology and documentary photograph rent times. The building is the former Vestbanen railway station and the gallery concept is by the British architect David Adjaye.

Kunstnernes Hus WERGELANDSVEIEN 17, OSLO www.kunstnerneshus.no

J

ust across the palace park is Kunstnernes Hus, an artist ist architecture. The gallery and foundation specialise in contemporary exhibitions, with a new cinema room which specialise in documentaries and video art.

189

Henie Onstad Art Centre SONJA HENIES VEI 31, HĂ˜VIKODDEN www.hok.no

T

he Norwegian icon Sonja Henie (1912-1969) was a

married to the shipping magnate and art collector Niels Onstad. Opened in 1968 the Art Centre is their legacy. Set in a sculpture park on the Oslofjord peninsula, the Henie On-

stad Centre is worth the trip. At the forefront of architectural design, the centre had been extended a number of times and with continuous restorations. The Siberian larch clad extension to the gallery space by Stein Halvorsen from 2005 is a beautiful addition in keeping with the park surrounds.

48h getaway?

Lofoten Islands 68. 2343° N

190

T

he Lofoten Islands are in the Nordland county in the far north of Norway. The peninsula sweeps outwards, tapering a landscape that is truly breathtaking, with mountain peaks cascading and piquing down to the sea. Meandering these islands from end to end is a journey quite apart.

Lofoten Suite Hotel Svolvær TORGET 21, SVOLVÆR www.lofoten-suitehotel.com

S

ituated directly on the bay of Svolvær harbour, the contemporary lines of the Lofoten Suite hotel curve around the edge of the square. Juxtaposing the wooden panelling with the metal framing of the jutting balconies, it offers impressive panoramic views of the sunrise in the morning over the Vest Fjord and the Norwegian Sea. Breakfast and at lunch you can also have sushi on the split level Rå Bar upstairs. Next door is the restaurant Bacalao.

Børsen Spiseri on Svinøya GUNNAR BERGS VEI 2, SVOLVÆR www.svinoya.no/restaurant

T

he small island of Svinøya is just across the waterfront from the Svolvær harbour. The special Rorbu cabins give

Spiseri, located in a wharf from 1828, the speciality of stockalso houses an old general store “krambua”, which is meticucatch is direct sea-to-table.

191

Maren Anna in Moskenesoy 8392 SØRVÅGEN www.marenanna.com/en 192

F

-

originally from 1914, has had many guises: beginning life as a cod liver factory, then later a tannery and now Maren Anna.

The simple interior and relaxed warm welcome gives way to a deliciously complex presentation and a blend of tastes, all sup-

Horse Riding at Hov on Gimsøya North Beach TORE HJORTSVEI 471, GIMSØYSAND www.hovhestegard.no

T

he island of Gimsøya could easily be missed between stops, but drive around the edge of the island and you reach the stables of the Hov riding centre. Here Icelandic horses and Shetland ponies offer the possibility of rides across the beach, or inland to explore the heathen monuments and historical areas noted in the sagas.

Kaviar Factory Modern Art Gallery HENNINGSVÆRVEIEN 13, HENNINGSVÆR www.kaviarfactory.com

A

rt collector and curator Venka Hoff begun converting the The Kaviar Factory in 2006, to house her art collection of Norwegian and international artists and give emphasis to young artists. Initially, the Kaviar factory started production of caviar in Henningsvær in 1924, when Mathilde Bordewick started her business. The white cube dates from the 1950s and each year the gallery mounts a

Hike to Kvalvika Beach 193

www.68north.com/outdoors/hiking-kvalvika-beach

T

he long stretches of sandy beach of the Lofoten islands give many a stunning view, but Kvalvika gives an extra special panorama. Partly because you have to hike on foot to access the beach - unless you have a canoe of course.

The steep sides of Moskenesøy engulf you on either side as the horizon opens before you.

Drive to Rambergstrand on Flakstadøya

I

f you seek a more accessible vista then Rambergstrand is perfect for the “drive by Instagram image”.

poland

52.2297° N Capital:Warsaw

P

oland represents a certain resilience and ambition, with an intrinsic belief in the opportunities of the future. Its capital Warsaw is a growth engine in every sense, with its new skyline representing its ever-growing economic power. On the backdrop of this skyline, with a modern take on Polish cuisine, bars and re-claimed city-spaces, all fueled by a young population eager to implement their global ambitions in their own hometown. With a population of almost 40 million people, Poland is diverse in its landscapes and culture. Its 320 miles of coastline are perfect for exploring the quintessential Baltic Sea landscapes and historical charms. Head to the south of the country for stunning views over miles of mountain landscapes unchanged by time, an immense primeval forest and a breath of fresh air.

197

warsaw Pawel Bik

W

arsaw is probably not the most beautiful city in Poland, but for what it lacks in beauty it makes up for in its dynamic culture. The city hardly survived the bombings of World War II, but with its previous beauty lost, a new initiative has appeared, and to this day the city is constantly changing.

Although there are some interesting zones other than places to live, with a lot of restaurants and cafes along with beautiful pre-war architecture) my playground is Centrum.

For lunch I usually choose Palmier – a French themed

But the best place to grab a drink would be Weles Bar. It’s hidden in a little courtyard just behind the Palmier, you can also reach it from Nowogrodzka street. It has a dark, decadent and a luxurious vintage interior, with old chandeliers hanging above deep leather sofas, in which you can immerse yourself and be served artisanal cocktails - a work of elaborate craftsmanship. Believe me – they know everything about cocktails.

If you are in the mood for a more lively atmosphere – you should head to Smolna Club on Smolna 38 street. The hot spot of the city, it hosts the best electro music in Warsaw, it always has an interesting line-up, and its huge space is

high ceilings, colonnades and stonework, with the outdoor Palmier: good place for breakfast or lunch, but also great for an evening cocktail.

www.facebook.com/palmiercafebrasseriebar Weles Bar:

www.welesbar.pl Smolna Club:

www.smolna38.com

P A W E L B I K A K A P A U L B I K ( W W W. P A U L B I K . C O M ) WA S B O R N I N WA R S AW, A N D N O W L I V E S A N D W O R K S B E T W E E N M I L A N A N D WA R S AW. H E I S A N A R T I S T PRODUCING RELIEF-PAINTINGS USING A SELF-DISCOVERED TECHNIQUE. HIS STYLE REFERENCES ITALIAN SPATIALISM AND ITALIAN AND POLISH ARCHITECTURE OF THE 50’S AND 60’S.

where to stay? warsaw

Hotel Bristol KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIESCIE 42/44, WARSAW www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

200

O

ne of the most remarkable landmarks and a real national treasure. Located in a prestigious area of the city, next to the Old Market, Royal Castle and Presidential Palace, the Bristol is the oldest hotel in Warsaw. The hotel will delight you with its exceptional design, where the belle ĂŠpoque period style combines modernity and contemporary luxury. If you seek a place rich with history and magthe Bristol Hotel will be the ideal space for you.

Hotel Sixty Six NOWY SWIAT 66, WARSAW www.hotelsixtysix.com

T

he Hotel SixtySix is a combination of tradition and fresh modern design that enchants with its casual elegance.

With black and white mixing with gold, the sleek interior is an instant modern classic, guaranteeing a luxurious stay. This little boutique hotel is located in a restored old classical building next to the Royal Route in the heart of Warsaw. Close to a vibrant and cultural part of the city, it is a perfect place for people who are fascinated by art and a rich social life.

201

H15 Boutique Hotel POZNANSKA 15, WARSAW www.h15boutiqueapartments.com 202

A

central Warsaw and housed in a 19th century build-

embellished with elements of Socialist Realism. H15 manages to retain an intimate atmosphere even with its large apartments ranging from one bedroom suites to spacious studios. Characterised by a contemporary interior and individually designed vibrant artworks serving as glorious examples of 21st century-luxury. The Signature Restaurant deserves special attention with modern cuisine with

Chillout Hostel POZNANSKA 7, WARSAW www.chillouthostel.pl

C

hillout Hostel, as the name suggests, is above all a place to relax. Located in the city centre Srodmiescie, it is close to the most popular cafes, restaurants, bars and tourist spots in town. Created for people who love travelling and looking for inspiration, new cultures and meeting locals. The hostel offers private and shared rooms with a simple minimalistic design. The cosy open common area with comfortable sofas and a big dining room is the perfect place to relax and socialize.

where to eat? warsaw

Belvedere AGRYKOLA 1, WARSAW www.belvedere.com.pl

B

elvedere is the best place to enjoy exceptional Polish cuisine in a stunning surrounding of extraordinary nature. Located in the heart of the Royal Lazienki Park’s 150 year old New Orangery. The surrounding romantic alleys, rose gardens and peacocks wandering the grounds, create an atmosphere of a mystic and almost magical world.

The original design of the restaurant consists of natural walls of tropical plants, 100 year old palm trees, large glass pavilion windows, subtle light and modern furnishings. This outstanding connection to nature, in contrast with a combience for all the senses.

203

Amber Room AL. UJAZDOWSKIE 13, WARSAW www.amber-room.pl

W

ing rooms and a beautiful terrace, surrounded by greenery, the Amber Room delivers historical charm and a feeling of being treated to something special. Its cuisine combines Polish traditions, seasonal ingredients, modern twists and an array of preparation methods - all creating an experience worthy of the yearly high rating from the Michelin Guide.

204

Qchnia Artystyczna JAZDĂ“W 2, WARSAW www.qchnia.pl

S

imple, bright and healthy, with a big selection of creative dishes based on seasonal products from Polish cuisine.

Qchnia is a modern and popular spot with an amazing summer terrace and a great view of the Agrykola Park, perfect for a sunny evening in the city. The menu also includes a wide range of vegetarian, lactose free and gluten free propositions, as well sophisticated dishes served in a beautiful and unusual way.

Atelier Amaro AGRYKOLA 1, WARSAW www.atelieramaro.pl

A

received a star in the prestigious Michelin Guide. A small and chic spot with a simple and elegant interior allowing you to focus on discovering contemporary Polish cuisine. A characteristic menu, which changes every week, is based on nature’s seasonal calendar. Searching for biodiversity, Polish unique ingredients and seasonal products, Amaro is a place where nature meets science. As a result, Amaro offers creative and innovative signature dishes in one of three different degustation sets which consist of 3, 5 or 8 courses called “Moments”.

Zorza ZURAWIA 6, WARSAW www.zorzabistro.pl

Z

orza is above all a place to meet, eat and drink at all hours of the day. Open from early morning till very late, seven days a week, its concept is set on light breakfasts and lunches, original dishes and great cocktails, with a special place for American cuisine. It cooperates with local suppliers and private producers, providing the best seasonal products and carefully selected ingredients. All that at a very reasonable price, in a stylish interior packed with gold and wooden decorations, with a creative mixture of art deco and modernity.

205

where to have a coffee? warsaw

STOR Cafe TAMKA 33, WARSAW www.facebook.com/storcafe

206

S

TOR is a little, urban-style café situated in Powisle.

Bright and simple, with high, big windows and an unusual design full of green plants, STOR feels cosy and friendly.

A wide choice of drinks – from a variety of alternative pourover coffee to wine and “bubbles” - allows you to relax and enjoy lazy afternoons. For hungry souls there are also homemade sandwiches, cakes and lovely banana bread.

Everything completed with a small shop, where you can buy simple coffee equipment and different types of coffee beans served on the spot.

Ministerstwo Kawy MARSZAĹ KOWSKA ST 27/35, WARSAW www.ministerstwokawy.pl

M

inisterstwo Kawy literally means the Ministry of Coffee and it can fairly be considered as such, especially if you are a great fan of all types of coffee variations. As they claim themselves, the one thing, they are serious about, is coffee. They brew coffee in a coffee machine or with more alternative methods such as drip, Chemex and aeropress.

207

where to drink? warsaw

Bar Studio PLAC DEFILAD 1, WARSAW www.barstudio.pl

208

A

social-cultural and political centre located in the heart of Warsaw, in the Studio Theater foyer in the Palace of Culture and Science. Open from early morning till late at night, when you can try simple, seasonal breakfasts, light lunches, snacks and drinks. In the evenings the venue transforms into a bar with DJs, where the selection of cocktails will satisfy even the most demanding guests. In addition to food and drinks, Bar Studio organises a number of cultural events, exhibitions and concerts, making it a universal place

Luzztro ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE 6, WARSAW www.luzztro.com

L

uzztro is notorious on the Warsaw nightlife scene, famous for its late-night clubbing. The club consists of two stages dominated by techno, electro house, deep house, tech house, vocal trance, minimal, psychedelic and everything inbetween. The club attracts the best Polish and international DJs, with the music lasting up to the white dawn.

Iskra WAWELSKA 5, WARSAW www.klubiskra.pl

I

skra is an unconventional club that combines nighttime entertainment and daytime relaxation. Located in Pole Mokotowskie, a large park complex near the centre of bar and a swimming pool which is open all day long during the summer season. This is a dream summer destination hidden away from the city bustle, with great music until the early hours of the morning.

209

what to see? warsaw

Neon Museum 210

MINSKA 25, SOHO FACTORY, WARSAW www.neonmuzeum.org

A

must-visit on the map of Warsaw is the Neon Museum.

One of the few museums of neon in the world, dedicated to the documentation and the preservation of Cold and unique neons and electro-graphic items, designed by famous artists, graphic designers and architects of the age.

Neon signs, created as state propaganda to light up Polish cities during the post-war period, were a major part of

urban architecture and design. Despite their purely utilitarian role, they were almost like a piece of art. There were over two thousand neons of different forms and shapes in Warsaw. However for the last decade they have been slowly disappearing from the public space. Now they have found their place in a museum where they can shine and delight with all their beauty.

Hala Koszyki KOSZYKOWA 63, WARSAW www.koszyki.com

O

only place of its kind in Warsaw. A historic hall from the beginning of the 20th century, it has been transformed into a culinary market and artistic space, maintained in a post-industrial surrounding. The place is something between a breakfast market and a food festival, where you can eat and buy the best food in a town. Restaurants and cafes with cuisine from all over the world, a huge bar in the centre, many shops with healthy food, as well as a cultural space for constantly changing artistic and social activities, line its historic walls. There is no other spot like it!

Museum of Modern Art

211

WYBRZEZE KOSCIUSZKOWSKIE 22, WARSAW www.art.pl

T

he Museum of Modern Art has been called the “Museum by the Vistula� due to its new exhibition space, opened on the banks of the Vistula River in March 2017.

A mission of the new headquarter is centered around art exhibitions, cultural and educational events and art publications. It will mostly focus on modern art research programmes, visual arts, graphic design, industrial design, and

architecture. The Museum is located next to the Copernicus Science Centre in a modern pavilion designed by the Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz. Its elevation will be completely covered with paintings. In the pavilion you will surrounded by terraces perfect for outdoor activities.

212

By the Vistula River www.facebook.com/kawiarniaplazowa Temat Rzeka: www.tematrzeka.com Hocki Klocki: www.facebook.com/HockiKlockinadWisla

www.facebook.com/CudownieNadWisla

D

uring the summer months there is only one queen in Warsaw – the Vistula River. This is the place where

partying all day and night long. Sun, wild beaches and cold drinks are the best alternative for everyone who visits the capital city in the summer. The Vistula seasonal clubs and drink bars with sun loungers and hammocks are crowded

your Vistula River journey. Cultural and sport events, concerts, outdoor cinema, workshops, picnics or yoga classes at sunset – all that just by the river next to the city centre.

48h getaway?

zakopane 49. 2992° N

C

alled Poland’s winter capital, Zakopane is the most famous Polish mountain town, full of cultural activities, winter sports, mountain hikes, landscapes and nightlife. Just two hours by car from Krakow, situated at the foot of the Tatra Mountains, is the main base for the most popular mountains trails. The Tatra Mountains are the highest mountains in Poland, which present Alpine characteristics, spectacular views and picturesque mountain lakes. They give plenty of options for short and easy trips, as well as more demanding excursions.

213

ARIES Hotel & Spa Halka Restaurant MARIUSZA ZARUSKIEGO 5, ZAKOPANE www.hotelaries.pl www.halkazakopane.com

214

T

he legendary Tourist’s House with a stunning panorama of the Tatra Mountains combines fascinating history with local, alpine and avant-garde styles, creating a place egance. All the rooms designed with a unique artistic sense provide an unforgettable experience of comfort, functionality and warmth. Make sure to visit its fabulous Halka Restaurant, where tradition mixes in an extremely harmonious way new combinations full of Podhalan soul.

Goralska Tradycja Restaurant KRUPÓWKI 29, ZAKOPANE www.goralskatradycja.pl

C

reated with passion and love, it combines what is best in the culture of Zakopane region. Sophisticated and charming - it is Goralska Tradycja, a real tradition where your visit is like time travel back to the 19th and 20th centuries. Handcrafted interiors with handmade furniture, a carved bar, woven tapestries and elaborately wrought iron details. In such surroundings regional dishes are a unique journey to local tastes and modern discoveries. A breathtaking panorama of the Tatra Mountains completes the meal.

STRH Cafe & Gallery KRUPÓWKI 4A, ZAKOPANE www.facebook.com/strhcafeandgallery

A

chic and stylish café and gallery in one, with wonderful ambience and a gorgeous view to the surrounding skyline of the Tatra range. With its bright, spacious, loft style interior you can experience great coffee, delicious breakfasts, as well as well as a selection of drinks. If you need a little cosmopolitan break after hiking, skiing or Krupowki shopping, STRH Cafe is the right place to go.

215

Russia

55.7558° N Capital:moscow

R

ussia is a country of contrasts. A land where old meets new, the future meets the past and vast empty landscapes mix with metropolitan hubs bustling with people. It draws you in and keeps you on your toes. Each city and corner of the country brings new experiences and its unique culture. The long white summer nights of the north contrast with the bracing winters of the inland. The capital Moscow is truly a metropolis, which never sleeps, with its cial life. Meanwhile, St Petersburg represents old world glamour, rich in history and the arts.

Once home to the famous Russian nobles, the city to this day carries a historical and elegant gravitas. Kaliningrad, perhaps one of the lessknown Russian destinations featured in this book, boasts miles of seaside landscapes and room for exploring.

219

moscow Daria Shulga

I

f you come to Moscow just for a couple of days, here are a

pretend it is summer and you start off your promenade

If you are not familiar with Russian cuisine, make sure to check out the Zhivago restaurant, you might want to book in advance. For a place with authenticity — Danilovsky Market is my personal choice. More that 15 counters with

the Strelka Institute premises. You can always check out our lectures, movie screenings and parties at strelka.com. listen to the latest trends and party. We are an institute, a

Then you walk down the bridge towards Muzeon park with a collection of 20th century art masterpieces at the Central Artists House. From there on head towards the Moscow Central Park or Gorky Park. You can go through Garage

a pint of cider, play pétanque and listen to nice dj sets and

Moscow has had a couple of popular pop-up projects over the last summers for partying. Check out Rabitsa for techno and unpredictable parties. If you want to get a glimpse at Moscow’s high and fun life — head to Denis

In the morning you can check out Nude near Patriarchy Pond for a good coffee and breakfast. Its a great area for wondering around. You can also get some coffee and beer at the Progress Cafe near Mayakovskaya metro stathe best places. Stop by Strelka, to ask for anything.

Nude Cafe:

www.facebook.com/coffeeandwinebar Rabitsa:

www.facebook.com/rabitzamoscow

DARIA SHULGA IS THE DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC PROGRAMME AT THE STRELKA INSTITUTE FOR MEDIA, A R C H I T E C T U R E A N D D E S I G N I N M O S C O W, AND THE MANAGING DIRECTOR FOR THE AFISHA PICNIC FESTIVAL.

where to stay? moscow

Savoy 222

ROZHDESTVENKA UL., 3/6, MESHCHANSKY, MOSCOW www.eng.savoy.ru

R

ich in history and in dĂŠcor, the Savoy is at the top-end of the hotel market in Moscow. Located within walking

distance from the Bolshoi and Maly theatres, Red Square, Kremlin museums and luxury shops, the hotel is a perfect The whole hotel feels almost like a time capsule, transporting you back to a Moscow from the beginning of the 20th century.

Brick Design Hotel MYASNITSKAYA UL., 24/7 BLDG.3, MOSCOW www.brickhotel.ru

S

afely tucked away in a courtyard off the historical Myasnitskaya street lays Brick Design Hotel. Its modest courtyard surroundings hide a true treasure. This four-star boutique hotel delivers style and luxury hospitality effortlessly. With its trendy interior and original art pieces from the non-conformist artists of the 20th century, the hotel feels welcoming and unique. Enjoy some handmade Siberian sweets and a cup of fresh coffee from the beautiful porcelain cups in the hotel’s recently opened library room and browse some of the many art books lying around. The hotel breakfast is sure to turn anyone into a morning person with its array of freshly squeezed juice, fruits, pastries and dairy products, all delivered from a farm nearby.

Sputnik Hostel BOLSHAYA DMITROVKA UL., 20, MOSCOW www.sputnikhostel.ru

S

putnik is located in one of the most fashionable areas of the city, surrounded by restaurants and boutiques, such as Prada and Louis Vuitton, with endless store windows adorned in impressive displays. The hostel itself is stylish and minimalist, with its exposed brick walls, black tones rooms, as well as cleverly designed dormitory rooms. Make use of the communal kitchen, take a break in one of the

223

where to eat? moscow

White Rabbit SMOLENSKAYA SQUARE, 3, MOSCOW www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru

224

L

ocated under a glass dome on the 16th

rateur Boris Zarkov and chef Vladimir Mukhin. Most recentth N best restaurant in the world by the Telegraph in 2016, White Rabbit represents the best of Russian cuisine. Its name is a nod to the playful nature of its cuisine, which makes use of often long-forgotten traditional Russian preparation methods with a modern twist. Book for dinner and enjoy the sundown as it lightens up the metropolitan Moscow skyline.

Grand Café Dr Zhivago MOKHOVAYA UL., 15/1, MOSCOW www.drzhivago.ru

H

ead over to Dr Zhivago for a true Russian brunch.

Carrying the name of the famous Russian novel, this

Hotel National. Booking is essential. Just a short walk from the Red Square and the Kremlin, it’s the perfect start to a day of exploring the historical landmarks of Moscow.

Voronezh PRECHISTENKA UL., 4, MOSCOW www.voronej.com

H

oused in a late 18th century mansion, Voronezh delivers 1000 square meters of variety, united by a common meat gastronomic concept. The complex houses a snack bar and a modern butcher’s shop with meat

the renovated and legendary “Meat Club”. The menu on all

225

Burger Brothers 1-Y TVERSKOY-YAMSKOY PEREULOK, 11, MOSCOW www.facebook.com/TheBurgerBrothers

B

urger Brothers has a relaxed atmosphere and some of the best burgers in town. Located in the creative district once inhabited by the Red October chocolate factory, this burger joint is in the heart of the hipster culture of Moscow. The interiors are light and airy, letting the burgers speak for themselves.

Savva TEATRALNY PR., 2, MOSCOW www.savvarest.ru

226

A

stonethrow away from the Red Square and the luxury department store GUM is the trendy restaurant Savva. The restaurant opened its doors in 2015 at the premises of the Metropol hotel, named after the hotel’s founder Savva Mamontov. The interior is classical, with its marble columns, wall paintings and high-ceilings from 1905 intact. The food however represents a new era, with N N

Ugolek BOLSHAYA NIKITSKAYA UL., 12, MOSCOW www.facebook.com/Ugolek.Moscow

A

t UGOLEK almost all the dishes are made only in an

belongs to Moscow's new cuisine movement - trendy and on the move. The interior impresses with its blend of industrial design and decorations inspired by nature.

Severyane BOLSHAYA NIKITSKAYA UL., 12, MOSCOW www.severyane.moscow

A

new hit on the Russian culinary scene, which places itself as a restaurant focusing on non-traditional cuisine. The decor is urban rustic and all the dishes have been invented by the award-winning chefs, who pride national kitchen. Reservations essential.

227

Moloko BOL. DMITROVKA 7/5, BLDG. 5, MOSCOW www.facebook.com/cafebarmoloko

A

former Soviet-style dairy store, which has now been converted into a stylish black-wood panelled cafe for tea, cocktails and snacks, perfect for an afternoon break from touring the city.

Cafe Pushkin TVERSKOY BOULEVARD, 26A, MOSCOW www.cafe-pushkin.ru/en

228

C

afé Pushkin is one of Moscow’s landmark spots. The restaurant opened on June 4, 1999, yet is housed in a well-preserved nobelmans’ baroque mansion in the heart of Moscow from the 1780s. Expect Russian cuisine and a grand atmosphere.

where to have a coffee? moscow

Chelovek i Parokhod UL. MYTNAYA, 74C3, MOSCOW www.instagram.com/chip_coffee

T

he Chelovek i Parokhod cafe, (meaning “Man and a Steamboat�) is a cozy little brew bar in the corner of Danilovsky Market. The market has a gastronomic focus, hosting a number of small restaurants, which attract milscene of Moscow and next to their top quality coffee they also serve a great selection of tea and treats.

229

LES coffee (ЛЕС) 2 ZUBOVSKY BULVAR & 10/7 ROZHDESTVENSKY BULVAR, MOSCOW www.facebook.com/lescoffeemoscow

230

L

ES has been often named as one of the best spots for coffee in Moscow. They have a few shops around Moscow, including one in Muzeon Park, but the place to visit is their café next to the Museum of Moscow. Their white courtyard with beautiful lilac trees is ideal for enjoying a

KM20 UL. KUZNETSKIY MOST, 20, MOSCOW www.en.km20.ru

W

hile KM20 is primarily a fashion store, retailing some of the edgiest collections around, this location also hosts a cool little coffee and hangout space in the back. The staff are relaxed and friendly, serving coffees for all tastes, as well as food and drinks. The atmosphere feels hip and fun, with a great soundtrack always on.

where to drink? moscow

Strelka Bar 14 BERSENEVSKAYA EMBANKMENT, BLDG. 5, MOSCOW www.strelka.com/ru/bar

S

trelka Bar is the social heart of Strelka Institute of Media & Architecture in Moscow. Located in the Red October factory district, the eclectic interior of the bar brings together art deco elements with Italian and Scandinavian design. Guests can choose from an extensive cocktail list and a metropolitan-feeling menu, which includes seasonal dishes and local ingredients. The summertime rooftop ter-

231

race overlooking the Moscow River is not to be missed.

Take a walk in the surroundings, step into the Strelka bookshop and grab some street food from the kiosk on the Strelka Institute premises during the day. In the evenings and weekends the bar turns into a lively socializing spot, hosting parties with a special music programme, from djsets to live performances.

Keanu Bar MALAYA BRONNAYA UL., 28, MOSCOW www.facebook.com/Keanu-Bar

K

eanu is an Asian gastro bar with Korean food and themed cocktails, located in the Patriarch's Ponds area of Moscow. In Korean, Keanu means "cool breeze over the

232 a nod to the famous actor, Keanu Reeves. Once the summer arrives, the whole street turns into one large street party in the evenings, with guests from the nearby bars enjoying their drinks outdoors.

Denis Simachev Shop & Bar PER. STOLESHNIKOV, 12, MOSCOW www.facebook.com/dsbar

S

ituated on the fashion street of Moscow, this eclectic bar

dĂŠcor is a favourite amongst the creatives and fashonistas of Moscow. The bar is open 24h, serving cocktails, as well late evenings with a colourful bunch of people looking to mingle to the mostly electronic music at the bar. While the door policy can be selective, the atmosphere is welcoming and jubilant.

Arma 17 LOWER SUSALNY, 5, BUILDING 3A, MOSCOW www.arma17.ru

I

f you wonder where all the young and the restless of Moscow go to dance the night away, they are probably headed to Arma17. It has a local as well as an international reputation for techno parties, which go on until the early hours of Monday. Located in an industrial complex a short taxi ride away from the city centre.

what to see? moscow

Gorky Park: Garage Museum of Contemporary Art & La Boule 234

S

ince its recent renovation, Gorky Park has become a crown-jewel of greenery in Mosocw. Once a dilapidated Soviet-era amusement park, Gorky Park is now a stunning scene of deckchairs on grass, restaurants, food & drink stalls and outdoor events. Once the sun hits the sky, the busy streets of Moscow. The park is also home to the famous Garage Museum of Contemporary Art. Founded

as well as showcasing local art. Make sure to treat yourself to an apperativo in the museums outdoor restaurant after you’ve toured the building. Once you’ve explored the Grarage exhibitons, head to La Boule for a game of petanque. This quirky petanque café, hidden in the back line of the park, hosts a kitchen and a bar, and is perfect for an afternoon outdoors.

Garage Museum of Contemporary Art:

surroundings with its grey metallic symmetrical structures. The museum hosts the best of international artists,

www.garagemca.org/en La Boule: www.facebook.com/La-Boule-petanque-cafe

Muzeon Park

F

rom Gorky Park take a stroll down the Moscow waterfront and you will soon end up at Muzeon Park. While this is in fact an open-air museum of sculptures from 1930s-1950s, the waterfront of the park offers a great view of Moscow architecture, as well as the imposing Peter The Great Statue. This whole area has been through From here on you are also just a short walk away from the Red October district – former site of a chocolate factory, which is now home to creative agencies, trendy hangout spots and the Strelka Institute of Media & Architecture.

235

Multimedia Art Museum UL. OSTOZHENKA, 16, MOSCOW www.mamm-mdf.ru

T

he Multimedia Art Musem is dedicated to the presentation and development of art related to new multimedia technologies. The museum was opened in October 2010 on the grounds of the Moscow House of Photography. This contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts exhibitions, many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. It is considered a great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene.

59.9343° N st petersburg

where to stay? st petersburg

W St Petersburg NEVSKIY PROSPEKT, VOZNESENSKY AVE, 6, ST PETERSBURG www.wstpetersburg.com

238

W

offers a 5-star stay in the heart of St Petersburg. Located on a side-street just minutes from the Hermitage, this trendy hotel gathers visitors and locals alike. The hotel includes 137 rooms, spa facilities, a rooftop terrace for cocktail hour, as well as a renowned restaurant Cococo with locals eager to enjoy a drink and some music on the backdrop of the historic St Petersburg cityscape.

Villa Perlov 2 BOLSHAYA KONUSHENNAYA UL., ST PETERSBURG www.villaperlov.ru

H

otel Villa Perlov is a small boutique hotel based on the concept of offering a designer space on the one hand and a homely feel on the other. The hotel offers 5 different rooms – 2 studios and three apartments with 2 bedrooms and a living room each. Each room is designed with a different concept in mind. The hotel also includes a tea room and serves breakfast with fresh pastries.

Angleterre Hotel ST. ISAAC'S SQUARE, UL. MALAYA MORSKAYA 24, ST PETERSBURG www.angleterrehotel.com

A

ngleterre Hotel represents a more classical stay in St Petersburg. Located opposite the St Isaac’s Cathedral and connected to the Astoria hotel next door, Angle-

back to another time. The hotel restaurant adds a contemporary angle to the hotel and serves a superb breakfast.

The hotel also has spa facilities, perfect for relaxing after a tour of the city.

Soul kitchen hostel MOIKA EMBANKMENT 62/2, APP 9, ST PETERSBURG www.soulkitchenhostel.com

S

oul Kitchen is a hostel situated in the heart of St Petersburg, and overlooks one of the historical canals stereotypical to the city. The hostel offers shared rooms, as well as private family rooms. The hostel is housed in a 150-year old neo-baroque building, within a short walkingdistance to all the major attractions of the city. Soul Kitchen feels cosy and friendly with its spacious lounge and balcony, and is sure to make you feel at home.

where to eat? st petersburg

Moroshka dlya Pushkina 240

EMBANKMENT RIVER MOYKA, 3A, ST PETERSBURG

“M

oroshka dlya Pushkina” stands for “Cloudberries for Pushkin” and is a reference to the famous Russian poet, as well as the restaurants’ creators looking to build on Russian food in their own creative way. Housed in a unique round corner-house, the restaurants’ décor is as unique as its cuisine. The wine list focuses on wines from the Northern hemisphere, served in custom-made glasses from Austria. This is not a place for a quick meal, but a special occasion location, with reservation essential.

Duo Gastro Bar KIROCHNAYA UL., 8, ST PETERSBURG www.duobar.ru

T

his pleasant bar and restaurant has been welcomed by the trendy St Petersburg crowd, who appreciate its simple but well-executed Mediterranean food and relaxed dishes and the whole experience remains within a reasonable price range.

Co-op Garage GOROKHOVAYA UL., 47, ST PETERSBURG www.cooperativegarage.com

I

f you fancy a beer and pizza dinner in a relaxed atmosphere, walk down Gorokhovaya street, make sure not to miss house number 47 and behind this simple black gate step into the Co-op Garage Pizza & Garden, one of the most underground places of the city. This cafĂŠ-garage serves sigdishes. Make sure to taste some of the local beers and enjoy the industrial open courtyard.

241

where to have a coffee? st petersburg

Verlé Garden KAMENNOOSTROVSKY PROSPEKT, 25/2, ST PETERSBURG www.facebook.com/verlegarden

A

design. Its interior is minimal, playing strongly to pure white tones and clean Scandinavian lines.

Bonch Coffee BOLSHAYA MORSKAYA UL., 16, ST PETERSBURG www.bonchcoffee.ru

A

chic café ideal for breakfast, coffee break and lunch.

and delicious cakes to taste. The café offers a dark wooden interior, as well as a wonderful summer terrace.

where to drink? st petersburg

Dead Poets UL. ZHUKOVSKOGO, 12, ST PETERSBURG www.deadpoetsbar.com

A

whiskey bar created for those looking for an evening of

with great background music. The bar offers a wide range of whiskey, as well as accompanying snacks. Its interior feels cosmopolitan with a nod to its art nouveau past.

243

Brimborium UL. MAYAKOVSKOGO 22-24, ST PETERSBURG www.facebook.com/brimboriumbar

B

rimborium is known for its array of spiced vodka drinks in

before you head into the St Petersburg nightlife. Watch out for the unique psychedelic wall painting in the bar.

Tantsploshchadka

244

KONYUSHENNAYA PL., 2, ST PETERSBURG www.tancplo.com

F

or a night of clubbing, cocktails and late-night food head to Tantsploshchadka. This industrial location encompasses a range of entertainment for the young and sleepless, with the music not stopping till the sun hits the sky.

The location attracts the hip crowd of St Petersburg and its dj list includes the best of Russian and international talent.

what to see? st petersburg

Hermitage 20/21 at the State Hermitage Museum DVORTSOVAYA SQUARE, 2, ST PETERSBURG www.hermitagemuseum.org

W

hile its easy to get lost in the hundreds of rooms and millions of pieces of art at the world-famous Hermitage, you should most certainly also visit the contemporary wing of the museum, located at the General Staff Building.

The contemporary wing is a part of the 5 building-complex of the Hermitage, which includes the historical Winter Palace, Small Hermitage, Old Hermitage & Hermitage Theatre. For-

the new wings goal is to collect, exhibit and study contemporary art. The glass and stone structures of the new wing feel modern and airy yet blend beautifully with its more traditional surroundings.

245

CREATIVE SPACES OF ST PETERSBURG:

Loft Project ETAGI & Taiga space

L

T

an urban rooftop.

Loft Project: Etagi Ligovsky Ave, 74, www.loftprojectetagi.ru Taiga Space: Palace Embankment, 20, www.taiga.space

oft Project ETAGI feels like a creative playground. This multi-complex centre occupies the building of a former bakery and its surrounding courtyard. Its home to art galleries, exhibition areas, designer shops, cafes and even a hostel. Make your way through the buildings corridors and browse through the various shops until you reach the

aiga stands on the St Petersburg waterfront moments way from the Hermitage. It’s a mansion house that hosts several designer shops, creative bureaus and a courtyard with a café and a bookstore. The building feels old and grand, with a bohemian DIY do-up.

Au Pont Rouge EMBANKMENT RIVER MOYKA, 73, ST PETERSBURG www.aupontrouge.ru

A

in the world: founded in 1907, it was reopened after 108 years in 2015. Once the “local shop” for the Imperial Family of Russia, the department store is now home to the latest fashion and trends, hosting an exhibition space and

tion of eclectic cosmopolitanism, where the current trends meet grandeur of the past. Seeing its blend of stunning art nouveau architecture with sleek utopian lines alone is worth a visit.

48h getaway?

KalInInGraD 54. 7104° N

K

aliningrad is one of the most under-explored locations on the Baltic coastline. Yet this Baltic Oblast of the Russian Federation features miles of unspoilt seaside and lush green scenery. For a true getaway, check yourself into the Schloss Hotel Yantarny. This 19th century mansion has been converted into a luxurious hotel and spa, only minutes from the sea. Alternatively, Koika Go offers simple and modern accommodation in the main city Kaliningrad. But to make the most of your stay, rent a car and tour the coastline. For lunch head over to Usadba. This hotel and restaurant features a gorgeous courtyard, perfect for the Baltic summer months. Once you’ve made the most of the beach weather, visit some of the galleries in Kaliningrad city: keep your eyes out for contemporary exhibitions at the Vorota Art Gallery housed in a medieval tower, National Center for Contemporary Art (NCCA) and the Kaliningrad State Art Gallery, with its functionalist architecture. Finish your weekend with a dinner at the Tchaikovsky Hotel, serving some of the best food in town in a grand setting.

Schloss Hotel Yantarny: ul. Sovetskaya, 68, Yantarnyy, Kaliningrad oblast,

www.schloss-hotel.ru/en KoikaGO Hotel: Bogdana Hmelnitskogo 33-37, Kaliningrad,

www.koikago.ru/en Usadba: 8, Zarechnaya st., Orlovka, Kaliningrad,

www.ageevgroup.ru/en/hotels/usadba Tchaikovsky Hotel & Resturant: 43, Tchaikovsky st., Kaliningrad,

www.ageevgroup.ru/en/hotels/tchaikovsky

sweden

59.3293° N Capital:stockholm

S

weden has a progressive tradition of welcoming the new. Whether it´s in fostering openness, adopting early innovations, experimenting digitally or creating and awarding excellence in research & development - Sweden creates a curious outward stance. The freedom to roam both physically and digitally is enshrined in everyone´s right. An egalitarian fairness permeates the culture, which values personal space and independence, just as much as it values the rights of the child and equal parenting. Social ates daily life, just like other community bonds & candles, and warm family Fridays with candy.

The power of Sweden is both generous and soft, holding an outsize position in reach, just as the expanse of the country stretches beyond the horizon from north to south. The capital Stockholm operates as a cluster for world shaping companies, ideas and trends, especially in the production and distribution of music. When quietness and distance is needed, the Scandinavian mountain chain that separates Norway to the west, and the islets, skerries and rocks of the coastline to the east, entice with endless possibilities to escape. If you want to explore the densely forested center, just remember to not annoy the moose. Our getaway gives ideas on how to get the best out of Sweden´s second city Gothenburg and the rugged seas around.

251

Stockholm Canan Yasar & Maria Hazard

“S

tockholm i mitt hjärta” is one of the classic songs about Stockholm – and that is precisely what we feel about this city. Coming from small cities in Sweden, both of us love what this big city has to offer – but our favourite area is, and will always be, Södermalm. malm and just a quick bike ride from our homes, we often end up at Babylon – the friendliest bar in town and our goto for a glass of wine and amazing kumminost. A must-have if you, just like us, have a thing for fried cheese. However, sometimes we do prefer something slightly healthier and that’s when we head a little bit further down on Götgatan to Bananas for pizza and bubbles! Our favourite one is

There is only one place in Stockholm we go clubbing at and its Trädgården. It’s like having access to a festival every day country, so during winter we end up at bars. Linje Tio for their cocktails – not only is the atmosphere amazing but their cocktails always surprise our palettes. Last year it also got awarded as one of the world 50 best bars!

Babylon:

Björns Trädgårdsgränd 4, Stockholm Bananas:

www.bistrobananas.se Pom & Flora:

www.pomochflora.se Greasy Spoon:

www.greasyspoon.se On weekends, Canan often ends up at Pom & Flora for their yoghurt, or Greasy Spoon for Stockholms best avocado sandwich with poached egg – our go-to places for brunch or really late breakfast. As Maria has two kids she’s already had

Petrus:

www.facebook.com/bageripetrus Trädgården:

www.tradgarden.com Linje Tio:

her, she’s enjoyed bread from Petrus, just two minutes from her apartment at Högbergsgatan. Sometimes we also hang out during the weekends for some shopping and strolling N hand-shops in combination with Swedish brands at Grandpa and more international ones at Sarah Clausin. But don’t

www.linjetio.com

CANAN YASAR & MARIA HAZARD RUN THE STOCKHOLM-BASED PR AGENCY OBEYA. OBEYA IS AN AGENCY THAT CREATES IDEA -DRIVEN COMMUNICATIONS SOLUTIONS, HELPING COMPANIES AND ORGANISATIONS CHANGE BEHAVIOURS AND BUILD RELATIONSHIPS.

where to stay? stockholm

Nobis Hotel 254

NORRMALMSTORG 2-4, STOCKHOLM www.nobishotel.se

N

obis Hotel opened in 2010 on Normalmstorg in central Stockholm, with the two adjacent buildings from the 1800s that the hotel inhibits, given a full renovation and refurbishment from their previous residential nature.

The architect and design studio Claesson Koivisto Rune channelled the mood and colours of the city itself, with subtle shadows and low lighting to re-create the ambience of a winter day. The textiles, interior designs and furniture A gold bar, a bistro on the lobby level and a trattoria on the all complement the overall approach. covered lounge with a stunningly high 28-metre ceiling.

Ett Hem SKÖLDUNGAGATAN 2, STOCKHOLM www.etthem.se

S

taying at Ett Hem is like being a guest in somebody’s rather beautiful private home. Originally a private residence built in 1910, Ett Hem is located in the area of Lärkstaden in Östermalm. The name originates from the larks that dominated the area before the brickwork. The town plan was conceived by the architect and planner Per Olof Hallman. Ett Hem encompasses twelve rooms and a walled garden, with interiors designed by Ilse Crawford.

HOBO Hotel BRUNKEBERGSTORG 4, STOCKHOLM www.hobo.se

H

obo is a new design hotel on Brunkebergstorg in Stockholm. The hotel has quickly gathered popularity thanks to its ability draw in a good line-up of djs for its bar downstairs. HOBO also includes a pop-up space called SPACEby, which operates as a show room for young artists from around. The rooms themselves are simple and functional. At Hobo you can borrow stuff while you stay so no need to carry everything with you for your Stockholm experience. Check out the events page on Facebook for djs and openings, or enjoy the rooftop terrace and restaurant TAK, which connects HOBO and its sister hotel At Six.

255

Generator 256

TORSGATAN 10, STOCKHOLM www.generatorhostels.com/destinations/stockholm

G

enerator offers affordable accommodation in a trendy and central setting. The downstairs cafĂŠ and bar area is the perfect setting to kickstart your day or for winding down before you hit the town in the evening. The rooms are great value with either doubles or singles or the shared options. Make sure to also check out the art gallery Bonniers Konsthall up the street from Generator.

where to eat? stockholm

Imouto KUNGSTENSGATAN 2, STOCKHOLM www.imouto.se

O

makase is a Japanese phrase, which means to put your trust in the chef. In an Omakase format Sushi is served harking to an inspiration from Tokyo´s vibrant scene. The bar area for eight or nine guests offers a sort of “chef´s taselected from Scandinavian waters, is the simple description - the reality is beyond an expectation of Finnish caviar, N star in the Guide Michelin in 2017 and is located, together with its exquisite big sister Restaurant Esperanto, in what used to be foyer to the old Jarla theatre.

Le Nom ROSLAGSGATAN 6, STOCKHOLM www.lenom.se

T

he playful pinks and golds and hints of turquoise of the open interior never fail to lift the mood. The old world wine lists and menu composed by chef Andreas Johansson make for a relaxed and uplifting occasion. The eclectic surroundings are reminiscent of bistro dining with velvet curtains and wooden curved back chairs, mixed with little booths to cluster around. There is sociability about Le Nom that alalong the same street have grouped together for an open summer terrace, which will take the atmosphere outside.

K25 KUNGSGATAN 25, STOCKHOLM www.k25.nu/en

T

his food court on Kungsgatan has eleven restaurants to satisfy all tastes, offering dishes from around the world, from burgers to sushi to tacos. Its generous seating allows for the prefect afterwork snack with friends, before heading out for the evening.

Its convenient location is also ideal for grabbing a bite for lunch while shopping, or collecting your coffee and snack to go.

Linje Tio / Tjoget HORNSBRUKSGATAN 24, STOCKHOLM www.linjetio.com

258

L

inje Tio - named after an old tramline that linked the north with the south of Stockholm - is now connecting the cuisines of Southern Europe, the Middle East and Sweden. Coming 25th on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, the bar and restaurant is well-known for its divine cocktails and Mediterranean wine selection. Situated in the heart of the trendy Hornstull area, the spot is popular among the creative locals. Grab a drink at the speak-easy style bar or book in advance to guarantee a seat at one of the tables.

where to have a coffee? stockholm

Snickarbacken 7 SNICKARBACKEN 7, STOCKHOLM www.snickarbacken7.se

S

nickarbacken 7 sits in the heart of Stockholm, in a former building for stables from the late 1800’s. It´s a café, exhibition space and a concept store. The store offers a careful and personal selection of homeware, jewellery, stationery, coffee supplies and more. The café is integrated with the exhibition space and serves both breakfast and lunch. A true hidden gem off Birger Jarlsgatan.

259

Kaffeverket SANKT ERIKSGATAN 88, STOCKHOLM www.kaffeverket.nu

260

A

favourite among the Vasastan locals, Kaffeverket is a coffee and cake-lovers gem. The café serves fresh sandwiches, salads, and delicious breakfast foods in a The sandwiches, made on sourdough bread, are delivered directly from the nearby Bakery & Spice, and there’s always fresh juices to choose from.

Kaffebar BYSISTORGET 6, STOCKHOLM www.facebook.com/KaffebarBysisTorget6

K

affebar in Söder is perfect for sitting outside - especially in May when the blossom is in full bloom - and grabbing an espresso. This small coffee bar on Hornsgatan serving espresso, juices and light snacks is always fresh. The coffee is roasted by David Haugaard and prepared with great care and the grilled sandwiches are deli standard. A perfect pit stop while browsing the area.

where to drink? stockholm

Taverna Brillo STUREGATAN 6, HUMLEGĂ…RDSGATAN 19, STOCKHOLM www.tavernabrillo.se

T

averna Brillo is an Italian brasserie in a Swedish form.

The large dining room is surrounded by bars and a deli, which give a selection of charcuteries and other delicacies.

You can order pizza, ice cream or take a shot at the espresso bar. The range is as generous as the opening hours, from early morning until late night. The menu has its roots in Italian cuisine, with interpretations by Taverna Brillo´s chef Henrik Erdmann. Whether you want a drink at the bar, a long evening for an intimate dinner or an afterwork with colleagues, Brillo offers something for all.

261

Morfar Ginko SWEDENBORGSGATAN 13, STOCKHOLM www.morfarginko.se

M

orfar Ginko is a perennial on the Söder scene, located just off Mariatorget. It’s a place for drinks and food, or even getting your hair cut in the barbershop downstairs.

Ginko hosts a diverse line-up of djs every week, and besides the bar and restaurant area, also includes a courtyard in the back, as well as seating outside in the front of the bar.

With its great deals on cava and a lively crowd, the place

Under Bron Trädgården HAMMARBY SLUSSVÄG 2, STOCKHOLM www.underbron.com; www.tradgarden.com

262

T

he Underbron and Trädgården combination is the winter and summer of Södermalm nightlife. In the summer at one time or another you will end up at the queue to Trädgården. This popular outdoor club under a highway bridge feels like a festival playground for party-goers, with different bar areas, food spots and decadent decorations.

The dj line up and concerts throughout the week make for a great night, while the day sessions during the weekend are perfect for a sunny afternoon. In the winter the clubbing moves indoors and transforms into Under Bron – a late-night maze of club rooms, together with a cocktail corner and hidden restaurant area.

what to see? stockholm

Fotografiska STADSGĂ…RDSHAMNEN 22, STOCKHOLM www.fotografiska.se

F

meeting place where everything revolves around photography. Located in the heart of Stockholm, the museum features world-renowned exhibitions in its extensive industrial gallery space. Beyond the photography exhibitions, -

the Stockholm waterfront, overlooking the Skeppsholmen island on the other side. A perfect spot to end your art tour with a glass of wine.

263

Hallwylska Museum HAMNGATAN 4, STOCKHOLM www.hallwylskamuseet.se

I

n the end of the 19th century, the couple Wilhelmina and Walter von Hallwyl chose this location, right opposite to Berzelli Park, as the place for their Stockholm winter home.

The palace was completed in 1898 to the design of Isak Gustaf Clason, who is also behind the imposing Nordiska Museet (Nordic Museum). The couple´s huge collections stand as a rare testament to the décor and preoccupations of the high society of Victorian Stockholm. The tours of the house reveal the intricacies and peculiarities of the time in all of their former owner´s individual splendour.

Stockholm Music & Arts www.stockholmmusicandarts.com

264

S

tockholm is a city that brims with life in the summer and

the calendar. Located on the beautiful island of Skeppsholmen, also the location of the Modern Museum, surrounded by the city’s glittering waterscapes, it lies at the heart of Stockholm. Acting as a cultural hub for both Sweden and Scandinavia, Stockholm is a city well deserving of its own international music festival in a distinctive urban archipelago setting. A trip out to Artipelag while visiting Stockholm will give a great accompaniment to your arts programme.

Stiftelsen Rosendals Trädgård ROSENDALSTERRASSEN 12, STOCKHOLM www.rosendalstradgard.se

W

hen taking a stroll in Djurgården, Stockholm forest and meadow-covered island and park, your last stop should be Rosendals Garden with a farm and plant shop on site, selling unique (potted) plants, gardening tools and accessories and ceramics. Enclosed is also an artisanal bakery, in which the delicious bread and pastry come diwhile sitting at the many tables and benches spread over the rose garden and little orchard - or on rainy days, in the lovely, airy greenhouse.

265

48h getaway?

Gothenburg 57. 7089° N

266

H

op on one of the vintage blue trains from Stockholm westwards and you’ll soon come to the city of Gothenburg on the Western coast. Here the busyness and hustle of the capital are replaced with a laid-back atmosphere of warmth and appreciation for taking things as they come. Gothenburg is famous for its rain downfall, but also for the friendliness of the people who live here and the endless ways in which the city can entertain you. Cosy cafes, specialist beer spots, relaxed champagne bars and a bustling music scene, as well as a stunning coastline – you might just consider a move to this Western gem.

Hotel & Ristorante Bellora KUNGSPORTSAVENYN 6, GÖTEBORG www.hotelbellora.se 267

T

his boutique hotel on the main boulevard of Gothenburg is inspired by 1950s and 60s Italian lifestyle and in 2016 opened a rooftop bar, which quickly became the town’s new hotspot. Thanks to the in-house baker, origispecial breakfasts are a hit with guests and locals alike.

STF Göteborg City Hotel DROTTNINGGATAN 63-65, GÖTEBORG www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/anlaggningar/ stf-goteborg-city-hotell

T

he combined hostel and hotel is characterised by its bright and light ambience. While the colours in the lobby are inspired by Gothenburg itself, the rest of the building and the rooms are designed in colours representing South, Middle and Northern Sweden. The associated little deli and bar serves home-made food and the lounge area with its comfy chairs invites to work or read.

SK Mat och Människor 268

JOHANNEBERGSGATAN 24, GÖTEBORG www.skmat.se

A

hands-on mentality can be experienced in this Michelin-star restaurant when booking the “chef’s table”: here the guests can prepare and cook the own meals. Of course under the protecting wings of an expert chef team, lead by award-winning Stefan Karlsson. For the guests with less enthusiasm, the restaurant offers also excellent table service in the modern and graphic sitting area.

KoMex Market ROSENLUNDSGATAN 8, GÖTEBORG www.marketrosenlund.se

V

Feskekôrka, Korea meets Mexico. The witty fusion kitchen does not spare on surprising food combinations nor on (hot) spices, so be sure to catch a seat in the outdoor area for a cooling breeze coming from the riverbank across.

The Barn KYRKOGATAN 11, GÖTEBORG www.thebarn.se

269

W

arm and dimmed is the wooden inside of this burgerrestaurant, located in a little side street not far from

on meat, with some vegetarian and vegan options. Most ingredients come from West Sweden, with commitment to organic farming and sustainability.

Da Matteo MAGASINSGATAN 17A, GÖTEBORG www.damatteo.se

D

a Matteo, with its numerous small cafes around Gothenburg, has its main warehouse in Magasinsgatan. It is a mix of a café, roastery and bakery, with sacks of coffee beans coffee culture, Da Matteo offers the old tradition of baking and roasting in 21st century shapes and tastes.

Juan Font Vinbar TEATERGATAN 36, GÖTEBORG www.juanfont.se

N

o wine list can be found in this lively and vibrant wine bar, so you have to ask the staff to get the best glass for every occasion, from their broad collection of Basque and Pyrenean wine. Along the same lines is also the food,

Bar Kino at Hagabio LINNÉGATAN 21, GÖTEBORG www.hagabionscafe.se

T

he micro-brewery Stigbergets Bryggeri, located in the hip district Majorna, sells its classic and new beer creations in this charming bar with a snug outdoor sitting area during summer time. The location is shared with the local cinema and an inventive vegetarian restaurant and café, making it easy to spend a whole day here.

Champagnebaren Forssén & Öberg KYRKOGATAN 13, GÖTEBORG www.forssenoberg.com

A

laid-back atmosphere, wonderful green courtyard and French bubbly characterise this bar dedicated to

champagne from smaller and more established producers, together with matching snacks and delicious food. A classic on Sundays: Champagne breakfast!

Röda Sten Konsthall RÖDA STEN 1, GÖTEBORG www.rodastenkonsthall.se

T

o see the newest paintings, photography, perfor- restaurant, which offers “meat-free Sundays” and brunch mances, video and sound art work of both Swedish and buffets during spring and autumn. Also the area around international artists, visit the art gallery Röda Sten. The the gallery is worth a visit, giving a view of the impressive bridge over the Göta Älv.

Brännö 57° 39´ N, 11° 4 7 ´ O

I

t is hard to choose which one of the islands populating the archipelago of Gothenburg is the most beautiful one. Brännö however boasts a sandy beach, an alternative happy café and being the most mentioned island in Swedish songs (mostly thanks to the Swedish ballad composer Lasse Dahlqvist, who also lived and died on the island).

Since there are no cars allowed, you are certain to have a calm and relaxing stay.

Photo and Artist Credits by country

COVER Book Cover Image / Math / unsplash Book Inside Cover Image / Gatis Vilaks / Mangalsala, Riga, Latvia / unsplash

Intsikurmu Music Festival / Magnus Heinmets Kalana / Visit Estonia

FINLAND DENMARK Cover Image / Denmark - Bornholm / Thomas Høyrop Christensen / Visit Copenhagen Cover Image / Copenhagen - Cykelslängden / Thomas Høyrop Christensen / Visit Copenhagen Mikkel Marcker Stubgaard / Jørgen Stubgaard Hotel Alexandra / Arne Jacobsen Deluxe Room Geranium / Claes Bech-Poulsen Manfreds / P.A. Jorgensen Papirøen / Renè Roslev Torvehallerne / Thomas Steen Sørensen Coffee Collective / Chris Tonnensen Central Hotel and Cafe / Jon Nordström Den blå planet / Sandro Katalina / unsplash Royal Danish Play House (Skuespilhuset) / Jens Markus Københavns Havnebadet - Islands Brygge Harbour Bath / Visit Copenhagen Cover Image / Faroe Islands / Visit Faroe Islands Koks / Claes Bech-Poulsen Koks / Visit Faroe Islands Sirkus / Ditte M. Joensen The Nordic House / Finnur Justinussen Saksunar Kirkja / Visit Faroe Islands Mykines Island / Karsten Koehn / unsplash

ESTONIA Cover Image / Estonia / Visit Estonia Cover Image / Tallinn / Visit Estonia Andreas Kask / Sohvi Viik Noa Chef’s Hall / Tonu Tunnel Pegasus / Eesti Maitsed Täna Eesti Rahvamuuseum / Takuji Shimmura Linnahall / Visit Estonia Lennusadam - Hangars side view / K. Haagen Simple Session / Teddy Morellec Tallinn Music Week / Palsatka Tallin Week Music / Top page image / Diana Pashkovich

Cover Image / Finland / Jussi Hellsten, visithelsinki.smugmug.com Cover Image / Helsinki - Löyly / Pekka Keränen Anni Korkman / Eeva Rinne Story / Joanna Laajisto Design District / Katri Miskanen, Fashion House Design Museum / Rauno Träskelin Flow Festival / Annikki Valomieli Löyly / Exterior / Rakennus Kuvalähde Kuvio Löyly / Interior / Tilat Brobacka Guesthouse & Café / Brobacka Guesthouse & café

GERMANY Cover Image / Germany / Robert Katzki / unsplash Cover Image / Berlin / Palsatka Nobelhart & Schmutzig / Marko Seifert Facil at Mandala Hotel / mandala.de Café Leuchtstoff / Marlene Riedel Five Elephant / Magnus Pettersson Café Fleury / Christof Rieken Katz Orange Anna Küfner (cocktail) Cordobar / Jens Oellermann Prater Biergarten / Marlene Riedel Klunkerkranich / Julian Nelken Feuerle Collection / Installation view of The Feuerle Collection. nd Platform, Han dynasty, 2nd Century AD, conglomerate. Lake Room and Khmer Sculptures in the background. Photo: def image © The Feuerle Collection Tempelhofer Field / Mirjam Külm Kunst-Werke Institute / “Flesh” by Hanne Lippard (courtesy to the artist and LambdaLambdaLambda, Pristina) / Frank Sperling Kunst-Werke Institute / Backyard 2017 / Frank Sperling Hebbel am Ufer / Dorothea Tuch Cover Image / Hamburg / Fynn Lehnert / unsplash 25 Hours Hotel Altes Hafenamt / Stephan Lemke for 25hours Hotels Hotel Louis C. Jacob / Louis C. Jacob

Photo and Artist Credits by country

Klippkroog / Rob Bye / unsplash The Table / Food / Rene Riis The Table / Restaurant / The Table Kevin Fehling Elbphilharmonie / Robert Katzki / unsplash Elbphilharmonie / Interior / Iwen Baan Staatsoper / Light sculpture by Rosalie C. Wolf / Dieter Gericke Dockland / Jörg Angeli Speicherstadt / Roman Kraft / unsplash

ICELAND Cover Image / Iceland / Amy Hanley / unsplash Cover Image / Reykjavik - Harpa / Anthony Jay Olsson Canopy / Anthony Jay Olsson Dill / Mikael Axelsson Bar Ananas / Anthony Jay Olsson Boston Bar / Anthony Jay Olsson Kaldi Bar / Anthony Jay Olsson Marshall House / Lilja Birgisdóttir, with courtesy of the Living Art Museum, nylo.is Harpa / Anthony Jay Olsson Grotta Island Lighthouse / Anthony Jay Olsson Iceland Airwaves / Högni Egilsson (Hjartalín) / C Siggi Cover Image / Western Fjords / Martin Jernberg Stykkisholmur / Sumarliði Àsgeirsson Narfeyrarstofa / anok.is Library of Water / View from the Library of Water, Roni Horn, Library of Water (2007), commissioned by Artangel Flatey Island / Visit Westfjords Westfjords / Mahkeo / unsplash Hornstandir / Nicholas Kampouris / unsplash Látrabjarg / John Salvino Dynjandi Waterfall / Visit Westfjords

LATVIA Cover Image / Latvia - Museum of Art Nouveau / Lita Krone (courtesy of Latvian Institute) Cover Image / Sea / Daiga Ellaby, momenti.lv Muusu / Kaspars Jansons / Pastaiga Fonoklubs / Ewert and the Two Dragons / Fonoklubs

LITHUANIA Cover Image / Lithuania / Palsatka Cover Image / Vilnius / Sakuru Zydejimas Dominykas Karpovic / Guoda Jucevičiūte Ciop Ciop / Joana Burn Opium Club / Rita Bacytė-Starkuvienė Crooked Nose & Coffee Stories / Darius Petrulaitis Bernardinų Sodas / Palsatka Arts Printing House / Laura Vansevicieni Nida Art Colony / VAA Nida Art Colony, passage, Niranga, Lithuania, 2015; photo by Andrej Vasilenko Nida Art Colony N residency studios, Niranga, Lithuania, 2015; photo by Andrej Vasilenko

NORWAY Cover Image / Norway / Christiann Koepke / unsplash Cover Image / Oslo - Opera House / Oliver Cole /unsplash Nils Bech / Benjamin Alexander Huseby Hotel Christiania Teater / Marcin Ptak Maaemo / Dish / Jimmy Linus Maaemo / Girl / Tuukka Koski Kontrast / Lars Petter Pettersen Piscoteket / Javier Auris Mathallen Oslo / Finn Ståle Felberg / Mathallen Sentralen / Tom Victor Gausdal Nedre Løkka / Nedre Løkka Tim Wendelboe / Benjamin A Ward Java / Java Oslo Operahuset / The Oslo Opera House / Operaen / Erik Berg, The Norwegian National Opera & Ballet Operahuset / Exterior / Anthony Jay Olsson Vigeland Sculpture Park / Visit Norway Nobel Peace Centre / "The Nobel Field at the Nobel Peace Center" / Johannes Granseth for the Nobel Peace Center Kunstnernes Hus / Varvin H. / Christina Leithe Hansen Henie Onstad Art Centre / Copyright holder BONO Lofoten Islands / Visit Norway / Sven-Erik Knoff Lofoten Suite Hotel / Anthony Jay Olsson Borsen Spiseri, Svinoya / Rorbuer L / Wouter Kaviar Factory Nodern Art Gallery / Kristin Folsland Olsen © www.folsland.no Kvalvika Beach / Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands / Cody Duncan Rambergstrand / Visit Norway

Photo and Artist Credits by country

POLAND Cover Image / Poland / Warsaw Centre / Peter Heeling Cover Image / Bridge / Patrycja Polechonska Atelier Amaro / four-magazine.com Ministerstwo Kawy / Ministerstwo Kawy, Warsaw Neon Museum Museum of Modern Art / Museum on the Vistula pavilion / Jakub Certowicz Vistula River / Temat Rzeka Cover Image / Tatra Mountains / Janusz Maniak / unsplash

RUSSIA Cover Image / Russia / Trees / Anton Strogonoff / unsplash Cover Image / Moscow / Mike Kononov /unsplash Strelka Bar / Mirjam Külm Denis Simachev / Anthony Jay Olsson Muzeon Park / Mirjam Külm Cover Image / St Petersburg / konstantinks, shutterstock.com Hermitage 20/21 / Mirjam Külm Au Pont Rouge / All images are courtesy of Cheungvogl, cheungvogl.com

SWEDEN Cover Image / Sweden / Huvudskär / Ola Ericson Cover Image / Stockholm / Jon Flobrant / unsplash Taverna Brillo / Niklas Alexandersson Under Bron / Visit Sweden Hallwylska Musuem / Arild Vågen Stiftelsen Rosendals Trädgård / Katja Halvarsson Cover Image / Gothenburg / Beatrice Törnros (Göteborg & Co.) Hotel & Ristorante Bellora / Hotel & Ristaorante Bellora (Göteborg & Co.) Da Matteo / Liv Omsén Bar Kino / Beatrice Törnros (Göteborg & Co.) Champagnebaren Forssén & Öberg / Beatrice Törnros (Göteborg & Co.) Röda Sten Konsthall / Hendrik Zeitler Brännö / Emil Fagander (Göteborg & Co.) ALL OTHER IMAGES ARE REPRODUCED HERE COURTESY OF THE ESTABLISHMENT. ANY OMISSION IS UNINTENTIONAL.

CONCEPT BY: Anthony Jay Olsson & Mirjam Külm

MANAGING EDITORS: Anthony Jay Olsson & Mirjam Külm

DESIGN AND LAYOUT: millstudio.pl

WRITERS: Anthony Jay Olsson Ewa Strozniak Jóna Dögg Þórðardóttir Marlene Riedel Mirjam Külm

CONTRIBUTORS: Andreas Kask Anni Korkman Canan Yasar & Maria Hazard Daria Shulga Dominykas Karpovic Hlin Helga Gudlaugsdóttir Justine Kaleja Marie von Stauffenberg Mikkel Marcker Stubgaard Nils Bech Pawel Bik

WITH INPUT FROM: Adina Popescu, Alexandra Sophie Jarolim, Anniina Jokinen, Brian Jones, Ekaterina Klink, Jan Wroblewski, Johan Engström, Kirill Gurbanov, Kristina Cheremushkina, Kristiāna Kārkliņa, Lindsay Tingstrom, Maria Veits, Peeter Ilison, Peter Oskar Shapiro, Reinis Spaile, Sophia Jänicke, Szymon Keller & Yaroslav Misonzhnikov.

52 Degrees and above

T

o mark the 25th anniversary of the Council of the Baltic Sea States, we map the contemporary landscape of our region, taking you on a journey through all our capitals and introduce you to some of the locals who call this corner of the earth home.

Travelling north from 52 degrees to 65 degrees, this book offers places to stay on any budget, where to grab a coffee, what to see and where to dine, as well as where join the locals for a drink afterhours.

ËšN

ËšN 52 Degrees and above