Ccercle n15 by Ccercle

A N E W E X PE R I E NC E BE YON D LU X U RY

I S SU E N.15

M A DA M E DU BA R RY M A Î T R E S S E - E N -T I T R E

I N D I A’ S G O L D E N T R I A NGLE

TH E HOUSE OF BORGH E SE I TA L I A N A R I S T O C R A C Y

A TRIP TO REMEMBER

CA ROL I N E SCHEUFELE& C H O PA R D A VISION OF SU S TA I NA BL E LU X U RY

1 76 8. In the conquest of the oc ean s, e v e ry m i n u t e c ou n t s. Tossed about on the waves of the Atlantic Ocean a corvette sailing ship belonging to the King of France, heads for Santo Domingo. On board are two marine chronometers created by Swiss watchmaking genius, Ferdinand Berthoud. Helping to calculate longitude to the nearest half-degree, these timepieces would guarantee the success of this 12-month expedition on the high seas. The era of great scientific

exploration is born. Two and a half centuries after this feat, the timepieces of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD live on, in a contemporary interpretation of these extraordinarily precise measuring instruments. The Chronometer FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB1 in white gold was awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2016.

Chronometer FB 1.4-1

L E C H R O N O M É T R I E R D E S E X P L O R AT E U R S ferdinandberthoud.ch GENEVA, LUCERNE, ZURICH Les Ambassadeurs · DUBAI Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons · GERMANY Wempe PARIS Dubail · SINGAPORE Sincere Fine Watches · TOKYO Yoshida

EDITOR S LETTER

She takes a look at the longevity industry, which has really just emerged in the last few years and has attracted some heavy hitting players including Google. Even young startups have been receiving high levels of funding including Unity, which now has investment from Amazon’s Jeff Bezos. Unity aims to clear the body of senescent cells that have lost the ability to divide and hang around in the body emitting damaging cellular byproducts. The aim is to extend a healthy lifespan by as much as 30%. Looking at a more aesthetic version of health Dr Valeria Acampora shows men different ways in which they can age gracefully along with the secret to maintaining health, energy and happiness. Of course men still want to live with plenty of energy, enthusiasm and excitement long after the age of 50 but many men are not able to enjoy this opportunity. This could be for a variety of different reasons as she points out. Looking at design trends of the future Ksenia Mezentseva and Andrea Belba report back from Maison & Objet in Paris and Art Basel Miami respectively. With more on the subject of interior design with have an interview with Helene Benhamou.

Dear Friends, Welcome to our spring/summer edition of Ccercle Magazine. Political tensions and technological advances are still shaping our world and it is becoming clear that we will all have to adjust. This includes the luxury industry. Our front cover star for this edition is Caroline Scheufele, the artistic director and Co-President of Chopard. Born into the famous family of jewelers and watchmakers she has proved herself to be an accomplished businesswoman in her own right, helping to grow the brand to further acclaim. A strong believer in sustainable luxury she enlightens us on the subject of ethical gold and her commitment that from July this year Chopard will only be using this type of gold in their creations. It goes without saying that this is the future and we hope that the Chopard approach will be followed by many more luxury brands in the industry. Another remarkable businesswoman is featured in ‘My Vision of Life’. Lina Haidar is a woman not just surviving but thriving in what is generally perceived to be a man’s world as CEO of Cap Energy. She gives us a unique insight into succeeding in the world of oil and gas, doing business in Africa and encouraging more women into starting their own businesses. We bring you our fashion week stories from New York, Milan, London and Paris and an interview with avid watch collector Duke Theerathada who updates us on the surge in value of some vintage pieces. Thus touching again on the theme of sustainability, cherishing what has value and moving away from a throwaway culture. This new way of thinking is also making us rethink our use of plastic after the program Blue Planet educated us on the damage that it is doing to our Seas. Helga Piaget looks at this, the importance of water and how we need to cherish it for the sake of our planet, in her article Passion Sea. Not only is it important that we take good care of our planet but it is important that we take good care of ourselves also. Helene Rambaud looks at the shift from the treatment of disease to its personalized prevention. Following on from the old adage that prevention is better than cure.

Film fans will be entertained with stories from the Oscars and the Golden Globes. It’s been a time of seismic change for this industry as was evidenced by our writers reporting back from both events. At the Oscars the best picture, best director, best original music score and best production design all went to The Shape of Water, a film about a lonely woman who falls in love with a monster. At the Golden Globes the dress code was black not because it was a funeral but as part of a co-ordinated campaign called ‘Times Up’ initiated by many notable women in Hollywood including Halle Berry, Reese Witherspoon, Eva Longoria and many more in order to raise money for the legal costs and to demonstrate solidarity with the victims of sexual harassment in the entertainment industry and beyond. This sea of blackness does however raise issues with freedom of expression and the expression for freedom as Monella Kaplan points out in her article. The subject of a movie herself and an interesting character Madame du Barry was the last mistress of Louis XV. Caroline Von Krockow writes on her interesting story and the French mistress phenomenon which looking at some recent politicians of the day has not entirely died out. Travel is good for the soul and providing you with some inspiration for your future journeys Victoria Kolossov writes on her trip to Beirut, Diane Ackermans gives us her tour of India’s Golden Triangle and Monaco resident Eugenia Smerkis writes on ‘Glamorous May’ an overview of the South of France’s most fun filled month. From The Cannes Festival to The Grand Prix and all of the parties that accompany these events such as the amfAR Gala there is a lot going in this beautiful part of the world. Polo enthusiasts amongst you will be interested to read our articles on polo from Dubai, St. Tropez and Baku. Alessandro Borghese tells the extraordinary story of his family history in The House of Borghese and Yaron Hubin writes about democracy in his article, The Good Lobby. We hope that this edition both inspires and entertains you. Enjoy,

G ABRIELE SALVADO RI Fo unde r & Edito r-in-Chief

BOUTIQUES GENÈVE • PARIS • LONDON • BERLIN • NEW YORK MIAMI • BEVERLY HILLS • LAS VEGAS MOSCOW • DUBAI • TOKYO • HONG KONG SINGAPORE • SAINT-TROPEZ • CANNES COURCHEVEL • ZERMATT • ZÜRICH

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Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic Blue. Blue ceramic case. In-house manual movement, with a 10-day power reserve and an innovative architecture inspired by Meccano-type design. Rubber strap.

CONTENTS

MY FAVOURITES

JEW EL LERY

B US IN ES S

MY VIS IO N O F L IF E

FAS H IO N

INTERIO RS

WATCH ES

ES SAY

Caroline Scheufele

Chopard Red Carpet Collection New York Times Luxury Conference

Lina Haidar

Pitti Uomo 93 New York FW Milan FW Paris FW Design Trends 2018

The Art of Time by Duke Theerathada

The House of Borghese

ART

Art Basel Miami CIN EM A

The Golden Globes 2018

66 72

TRAVEL

CH ARITY

I N CO NVERSATIO N W ITH

Paris of the Orient

Passion Sea Helene Benhamou

PO LO

Polo Challenges around the World

104

E d ito rial co o rdinato r: Cathe rine M c Q ue e n Fo r a d ve r t is in g p le a s e co ntac t: N adya.Ars e k ina@c c e rc le .co m | +44( 0 ) 7 9 8 5 342246 Publisher Ccercle Ltd ® 5 Vigo Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 3HB, UK Ccercle is a ® Registered Trademark. Printing in whole or in part is expressly forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The publisher declines any responsibility for manuscripts and photos sent directly. The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine. © 2018 - Ccercle Ltd ®. All right reserved. Print: Petrilli Group S.r.l - Italy Print run: 20.000 copies Follow us on Twitter @ccercle, Instagram @ccercle & Facebook

CMY

EVENT

Glamorus May

MY FAVOURITES

Caroline S cheufele

Little diamonds do great things Chopard Co-president and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele’s energy and passion for design are notably illustrated by the brand’s first jewellery collection, Happy Diamonds, the Happy Sports watches featuring a world-first combination of steel and diamonds, as well as the dazzling Haute Joaillerie Red Carpet and Animal World collections. She has also contributed to Chopard’s international exposure by connecting its image with the world of

Cannes Film Festival of which Chopard has been the official partner since 1998.

cinema and iconic events such as the

Caroline Scheufele’s dynamism and insatiable creativity are matched by a devotion to philanthropy expressed by support for charitable

American Foundation for AIDS Research (amFAR) and the José Carreras Foundation against Leukaemia. She has also promoted corporate social responsibility, including Chopard’s membership of the Responsible Jewellery Council since 2010. causes such as the

In September 2014, she was honoured at the Fashion 4 Devel(F4D) annual First Ladies Luncheon for her role in the 2013 launch of Chopard’s Journey to Sustainable Luxury latter multi-year programme that aims to place ethics at the heart of aesthetics by sourcing from businesses that are demonstrably committed to responsible ethical, social and environmental practices. Two months later, in November 2014, she was also named “Environmentalist of the Year” in the BRAVO Business Awards. opment

FAVOURITE THINGS I love travelling around the world and meeting new people but of course I love coming back home to spend time with my family. I also enjoy reading and going to museums or art galleries where I can discover exceptional art pieces. I also cannot live without music. SUSTAINABLE LUXURY Sustainable luxury is knowing how your luxury items are made and where they come from. This is what Chopard is achieving with the Journey to Sustainability project, a multi-year programme we started in 2013. We have recently announced that from July 100 % of our gold used in production will be ethical, this is the direction we have been heading in since the Journey to Sustainable Luxury began. INSPIRATION The extraordinary thing about inspiration is that it can come from anything: from a sentence, an object, a memory, a landscape, a colour. The beauty of nature can be the spark that gives life to wonderful creations and that has often been my case. PHILANTHROPY I think that “Little diamonds do great things”! That is definitely an important motto for me and for my family. We are supporting the Jose Carreras Leukemia Foundation to help the fight against this disease whilst supporting a dear friend of Chopard. We also support Petra Nemcova’s Happy Heart Foundation, which aims to rebuild schools in countries, which have been affected by natural disasters. We started working with Centrepoint which is a fantastic charity helping young homeless people in the U.K, a great cause supported by the Duke of Cambridge and “Education above all” a Qatari Foundation set up in 2012 by Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser. A new collaboration will be announced soon during the Cannes Film Festival but I can’t give you more insight on this at the moment! FUTURE VISION As an independent family owned company, we have the privilege to determine what the future holds and I hope we will continue to lead the way in sustainable luxury. My vision of the future of luxury has to include - as an important feature - the sustainable sourcing of raw material. Our project called The Journey started in 2013 and is aimed at leading our company towards sustainable luxury. For this, we work closely with Livia Firth, Creative Director of Eco Age. The Journey began with ethical gold certified Fairmined. It continues with our intention to have more and more responsible “coloured” stones. ETHICAL GOLD This year during Baselworld, we made an incredibly exciting announcement, that all of our creations from July 2018 will be crafted from ethically sourced gold. This is a huge step not only for Chopard but for the watch and jewellery industry as a whole and we are glad to be leading the way! We are very humble in our journey to sustainable luxury. We are improving our supply chain and production as much as possible. We are on a good path to a more sustainable luxury.

We have been able to achieve this because more than 30 years ago we developed a vertically integrated inhouse production system and invested in mastering all crafts internally, from creating a rare in-house gold foundry as early as 1978, to the skills of high jewellery artisans and expert watchmakers. From July 2018 we will use gold sourced from two traceable groups: artisanal mines that have been certified over the past and that we support and small scale mines either participating in the Swiss Better Gold association or RJC Chain of Custody gold.

FUTURE EXPANSION We have expanded our retail activities a lot over the past few years, but I think there is room for growth in Asia, this is such a dynamic area! The US are coming back on the luxury landscape with some very significant cities in Texas for instance where we recently opened a boutique in Houston. Australia is also very interesting for us. Two boutiques opened in the two major cities of the country and for sure Africa will be showing great potential. HOME

LUXURY INDUSTRY OF THE FUTURE I think the luxury industry will have to be more transparent in the future. Luxury is not only about the item presented to you, it is also very important to know its origin. The second key issue will be to address the millennials. We have very attractive products and online communication for that. EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES As a woman, I think that it is important in today’s society that women are considered equal to men. Chopard advocates the respect of the values stipulated in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, such as the fundamental human rights, in the dignity and worth of the human person and in the equal rights of men and women. Chopard endorses the diversity of its work force and nourishes a company culture where any employee can freely develop to her/ his best potential. The company promotes the principle of equal opportunities to all its employees and offers a discrimination and harassment free working environment. All employees are thus entitled to fair and equal treatment, regardless of gender, race, age, disability, nationality, sexual orientation, marital status or any religious or cultural background. FAVOURITE CITIES I like the sophistication in Paris and the freedom of London. I also love to see how Shanghai changed so quickly. Finally, I enjoy being in Italy and its eternal cities of Rome, Venice, Milan and Florence.

I am a real citizen of the world travelling all the time but Geneva is and remains definitely a place that I call home. I love relaxing at La Réserve, I like eating at the Tse Fung Chinese restaurant in La Réserve. I enjoy a drink with friends on a Geneva rooftop and spending time at home with family. COLLABORATIONS I like collaborating with high-end luxury fashion brands as well as the most famous stars. In 2016, we revealed a capsule collection of Green Carpet High Jewellery together with Julianne Moore.

MY FAVOURITES

Creations were crafted from ethical gold and featured the validated emeralds from Gemfields and diamonds sourced from the IGC group, which is certified by the RJC Code of Practices. It has been challenging at times, but the results are incredible. Chopard is defined by true luxury and today this means knowing where the precious materials in our jewellery come from. Gemfieldsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fabled emeralds are a wonderful addition to our Green Carpet Collection. In 2017, I collaborated with Chinese designer Guo Pei, it was a fantastic project because we sat down and put our heads together, sharing our creative vision in order to create pieces. HOPES AND DREAMS I hope more companies from our industry will join us in this movement and effort to sustainable luxury by putting ethics at the heart of aesthetics. I hope they will see the benefits of certifying the mining sites, covering social welfare, practicing environmental protection, providing training provision and better security for workers. It would be fantastic if everyone could play a part in educating the young and future generations about these important values. I am also proud of the fact that Chopard is an industry pioneer on the journey to sustainable efforts. As I say, Rome was not built in a day. It is not an easy journey, but it is the right one.

JEWELLERY

Chopard

unveils

the first creations in a

Glistening

collection

RED CARPET COLLECTION 2018

As the Cannes International Film Festival approaches, the High Jewellery workshops of the Maison Chopard are giving life to a splendid collection envisioned by Caroline Scheufele. An anthem to femininity and beauty, these exceptional jewellery creations will adorn the greatest actresses on the red carpet, making Chopard an inescapable lodestar when it comes to glamour. Partnering with the Cannes Festival for 20 years, the Maison annually crafts the legendary Palme d’or, made from Fairmined-certified ethical gold. While the High Jewellery ateliers are hard at work on these unique works of art, Caroline Scheufele – the woman who inspired them – announces an edition brimming with surprises.

Secret watch in 18ct white gold and titanium featuring a black opal of 72cts and set with carved jadeite, turquoises, onyx, pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, brilliant-cut emeralds and brilliant-cut tanzanites. Dial set with pink mother-of-pearl and chalcedony. Bracelet composed of tanzanite beads for a total of 235cts. Ref. 104422-9001

Necklace in 18ct white gold set pear-shaped diamonds (38cts) and briolette - cut and brilliant-cut colored diamonds. Ref. 818044-1001

Necklace in 18ct white gold and titanium, composed of tanzanite beads for a total of 459cts, and set with ceramic, a pear-shaped aquamarine of 12.4cts, one golden pearl of 12.7cts, pear-shaped aquamarines, pear-shaped tanzanites, pear-shaped tsavorites, brilliant-cut and marquise-cut pink sapphires, brilliant-cut spessartine garnets, brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut yellow sapphires. Ref. 818009-9001

JEWELLERY

Red Carpet Collection 2018 Every year since 2007, Chopard Co-President and Creative Director Caroline Scheufele has been imagining a High Jewellery collection taking up the extraordinary challenge of releasing a number of jewellery models equivalent to the edition number of the Festival. Stemming from her boundless imagination and from the peerless mastery of diverse skills within the Chopard workshops, a complete collection of 71 creations will be rolled out this year, dedicated to the world’s greatest actresses for their red carpet appearances. This year, the Red Carpet Collection is inspired by the various travels and dreams of its creator. Year in and year out – like the members of her family who used to voyaging the globe with trunks filled with precious merchandise, journeying as far as the court of the Tsar of Russia – she tirelessly tours the many countries in which the family Maison’s creations are present. These peregrinations are a perpetual source of inspiration for Caroline Scheufele, who jots down and sketches her impressions in her travel diaries. With the Red Carpet Collection, she invites us into the secret world of her reveries and personal intuitions, offering a delightful, generous and mysterious revelation. She is inspired by anything and everything: architecture, art, literature and cinema. A tiny detail is enough for this fervent gem lover to dream up the most splendid – and above all most ingenious – adornments. Nature also remains a powerful source of fascination for her creative mind. Witness one of the star models in the 2018 Red Carpet collection: an astonishing necklace of real feathers, inspired by the costumes, traditional skills and crafts of the peoples on the Mongolian Plateau. In a major first for the Maison, this airy creation combines a magnificent sculpted cameo graced by volutes of precious stones with a feather necklace. The resulting shimmering work of art draws upon the mastery cultivated within the Chopard High Jewellery ateliers, the largest in Switzerland and home to more than 45 specialised artisans. Combining traditional crafts with technical innovation, they are also distinguished by a constant quest for new materials – because High Jewellery is perpetually reinvented through the most unexpected raw materials. The 71 unequivocally ingenious and stunning models in this impressive collection will be unveiled on the red carpet of the world’s largest film festival from May 8th to 19th 2018. A sure promise of dreams and enchantment.

Chopard and the Cannes Festival: an enduring love story

A keen film enthusiast, Caroline Scheufele has transformed her own love story with film-making into an ongoing, over 20-year partnership with the Cannes International Film Festival. The Palme d’or – which she personally redesigned and is crafted in the Chopard workshops from Fairmined-certified ethical gold – is the dazzling symbol of this sparkling pairing. Eager to support the world of cinema and to promote its youthful talents, Chopard also awards a prodigious annual prize to a promising young actor and actress: the Trophée Chopard. While the workshops of the Maison are hard at work on giving life to a new range of contemporary design wonders, and the Trophée Chopard jury is commencing its deliberations, Caroline Scheufele – who is never short on ideas – is secretly preparing a series of new surprises that will ensure Chopard continues to shine on La Croisette. 21

BUSINESS

L uxury

in a

Turbulent World By Gemy Kim

a world that seems to be undergoing many political and social changes, the luxury

Brussels in November 2017 by The New York Times, Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Next? The impact of politics, the growing power of millennials, the digital world, the changes in customer behavior, and how to deal with these whether it is with a different language, business model or interface were some of the topics that they tried to address during these sessions. conference that was organized in tried to answer the question:

Around the world there has been a shift in politics, the strength of social media and the speed at which the opinions of influencers are spread on the web, has made a change in the election process, and therefore the results, towards more populist choices: Brexit, the US elections, the Cataluña referendum, the examples are plentiful. How will these have an impact on what a luxury brand stands for? Should it take a stance? Should it stay neutral? That is what Jean-Marc Loubier (Exec. Chairman of Delvaux), Jonathan Akeroyd (CEO Gianni Versace) and Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye (CEO Chloé) shed light upon during their discussion. As opinions in the social sphere become more and more polarized, it creates pressure to take a position and some houses do so. Jean-Marc Loubier is not afraid to be part of the social political discussion, showing the company’s support during the New York fashion shows in 2016 by inviting Hillary Clinton to the Sonia Rykiel show. He believes this show of support of his values give strength to the company, the employees and the brand. Some brands, like Chloé, decide to stay more neutral arguing that the political arena is not their competency. They concentrate in making women feel good and free with their clothes but acknowledge their limitation and will not try to transcend it. And some will take a stance with chosen social movements, as is the case of Donatella Versace supporting the #metoo campaign. What is clear from this discussion is that whether the brand is political or neutral, the key is that the standpoint supports the values of the brand and is an extension of its principles, strengthening the label and its personality.

European luxury brands are rich in their history; they have inherited a story that transcends generations. Now that Europe itself is trying to define itself, what way will these houses be affected? As Enrico Letta, a former Prime Minister of Italy, explains, in the 1950s and 1960s Europeans were 1 out of 6 in the world, but in 20 years’ time, they will be 1 out of 20. How can these European luxury houses adapt their communication so that they sell European, but have enough in common with the rest of the world to make a connection? The answer for most Houses is to be present in their emerging markets and to accommodate to the different customer, as is the case of Aston Martin. Marek Reichman (CEO) talks about the differences in demographic, in traditional markets, their main customer is 95% male and between 45-50s, whereas in newer markets the average age is 30, comprising 50% female and 50% male. In order to deal with the change, they’ve had to renovate some of their communication to target a younger customer in these newer markets and have increased their presence online. Millennials are becoming more and more the focus of many labels, as they are already 30% of the world, and $2.45tn of global spending power. If the Brands want to be relevant, they will need to cater to this growing community. One of the biggest changes for businesses that deal with this segment of the market is the influence of social media and how the new generations use it. Francesca Belletini (President & CEO of Saint Laurent) explains, “Our clients are not only the people that buy our product, but also the people that want to engage with

BUSINESS

the brand”. The visibility of people’s posts and comments on platforms such as Instagram, Facebook and Twitter is so great they need to become an integral part of the Company’s communication. Chanel, for example, had 876 official posts as of November, but 52 million #’s from the public open platforms, as presented by Natalie Remy of McKinsey. In an interface where a like or a dislike is just a click away, companies need to cater to these “customers” so they support their communication and create an image that is in agreement with the brand. An example of using social media to strengthen the brand is the collaborations of some houses together with bloggers as is the case of Tao Liang (Mr. Bags) and Gucci or Louis Vuitton, having great success in the Chinese market. It is paramount for companies to keep social media as one of the biggest elements in their communication mix, a key part of the brand ecosystem, otherwise they will lose visibility and this could potentially have a negative effect. As the World is getting richer, millennials have changed the way we buy. Millennials look for value, they don’t mind spending money (and mostly have no savings), but they spend it where they think they find value. People all across the spectrum are spending money on beautiful things and when buying, are ready to mix and match their shopping: they will fly on a low-cost airline and then spend their vacation in a luxury hotel. This has created an opportunity for companies like Paddle8 to cater to these customers, by “democratizing” art, becoming an online auction house accessible to everyone. With their expertise, they give a seal of approval to their pieces and are able to sell online to both established and to new collectors that have not always been in the habit of buying art or are too far to shop in auction houses regularly. Another example of broadening the market through the availability of being present online is the RealReal, a second hand online store that sells clothing and accessories as well as jewelry and has already made sales of up to $200,000. The one trend that is now evident is that there is no top limit on the price category of sales online, as customers

become more accustomed to buy online they are ready to spend higher amounts at the time of sale. In the ocean of available products and business models, all companies need to be clear on their branding to have a defined image in the customers’ heads. In order to do so, not only should the product line and shopping experience be homogeneous, but very often can gain strength from having an aligned set of core values that are communicated wherever the customer looks. Stella McCartney is able to do this because she works very hard in having her set of values permeate the whole company. She has always been a strong advocate for sustainability and the environment, with her campaigns against fur and her materials and production lines being ethical. Now she has developed a wool yarn that has received the certification of Cradle 2 Cradle, a material that is ethical from beginning to end, changing the use of pesticides and detergents. The result is a Gold Level Wool Yarn that has set a new standard in the market. One of the most inspiring presentations during the Conference was given by William McDonough, co-founder of Cradle to Cradle, an institute that operates “in an economic, industrial and social framework that seeks to create systems that are not only efficient but also essentially waste free.” McDonough argues that we need to change our language in order to change our ways, which are depleting the resources of the earth we live in. We currently speak of a 20% reduction in carbon emissions by the year 2020; we are essentially aiming to be 20% “less bad” by 2020. How is that a goal? We should be aiming to “be good,” not less bad. To create luxury “goods” and not luxury “bads.” With that in mind, Cradle to Cradle was born, so that products and materials are part of an ecosystem, instead of being things that go from Cradle to Grave. They aim to make a good economy, in which waste becomes the input for new products, good energy, which doesn’t pollute our environment, good water, clean and available, and good lives, safe, dignified and creative. Last year they were able to cooperate

with C&A to manufacture a cotton T-shirt, which received the Cradle 2 Cradle certification. The water waste of the mill was drinking quality, dyes were ecological and clean and the people that worked to manufacture the T-shirt were treated fairly and with respect. The T-shirt was sold in the market at the starting price point of €7.99, and when the T-shirt is thrown into a compost heap, it will become compost in only 11 weeks. As we become increasingly pressed to deal with the damage done to the environment, these kinds of products will have to become more mainstream. McDonough encourages everyone to think about what we can leave for the next generations, to have an heirloom notion, and to have the wisdom to know how to act. “A manager’s job is to be efficient and to do something the right way, but it’s the executive’s job to do the right thing, because what if you’re doing the wrong thing and doing it perfectly? You have become perfectly wrong!” To have values and to live by them are the key to a world of Luxury “Goods.” To do so, McDonough urges everyone to change how we speak of the things we see,

“how can something be beautiful if it damages children’s health or destroys the environment?” Also, he conveys his dislike in the word sustainability, giving the example that if someone is asked about his marriage and his answer was “sustainable,” it would be nothing to be proud of. His aim is higher than just sustainable and would like to speak of deeply beautiful things that are timeless and transcend generations. This conference showed that though the year ended well for luxury, growing at 5% to $1.2 trillion globally, it still has much space to adapt to the changes in the market. Millennials with their new habits are on the rise, the political landscape, the need for a better environment, and the pressure or opportunity for change were some of the topics touched upon throughout these talks. As the fashion editor of the NYT, Vanessa Friedman says in her closing words: “There is a need, a kind of an imperative to take risks… it is from strength that we need to take chances. And it’s scary, but the most dangerous thing is not to do it at all. So, leave here, go find a cliff, and jump off it, and come back next year to tell us about it.”

MY VISION OF LIFE

L i n a H a i da r Lina

is the

CEO

Cap Energy,

an oil and gas company focused

on the exploration, production and development of oil and gas assets in sub

Saharan Africa. Very

much a woman not just suc-

ceeding but thriving in what is generally perceived to be a man’s world she spoke to

Ccercle to give her Vision of Life.

EARLY LIFE I was born in Beirut and grew up in Nigeria to a family of five. My Grandparents migrated to Ghana then my parents moved to Nigeria in the early 60s. My father was an entrepreneur and had multiple businesses in Nigeria. I grew up in an entrepreneurial environment in a country that was just starting to develop with many opportunities. I did my undergraduate studies in management and computer science in Lebanon and my MBA in Monaco. CAREER I started my own business when I was 25 in Nigeria and had no prior experience in leading or managing any business. I learnt the hard way but I was fortunate enough to be surrounded by successful entrepreneurs such as my father, my husband, and my two brothers. They guided me and I always went to them for advice when I faced difficult times. I kept borrowing money from my family to run my business: the first year I operated at a loss, the second year at an even greater loss, until I finally broke even in the third year. Despite the challenges, nothing frightened me – I had no fears and strongly believed in what I was doing. When things were down and slow during economic downturns, I would go full throttle on expanding my business by acquiring more equipment and increasing my output and number of staff. Nigeria is a significant oil producing country and there are a lot of expatriates working in the oil industry there. I knew things would pick up whenever they were down and I started my business primarily to supply services to the oil industry. I was exposed to all sorts of people, but mainly shrewd, tough, arrogant people. I was extremely fascinated by the oil business and with time I believed I could own my own oil block and start my own oil company. I was convinced that none of the people I came across were any smarter than I am, though they surely were bigger than me – but that did not deter me.

I was growing a business that kept facing losses until one day when I decided to bid for a contract for a large oil company, although I had nothing near the capacity or number of staff required to fulfil the job. I remember participating in the bid when there was just 48 hours left until the deadline and I had to submit a 500-page document. I immediately sent my manager to purchase the bid booklet and get our entire team working over night to respond to the bid questionnaire. I recall my husband smiling and telling me that I had no chance against the other large bidders, but I never felt anything was bigger than me. To cut the story short, I won the bid! This was the key to success in my small business. It was a 1-year contract with milestones to deliver. There was a team that monitored my on-going performance and this was a real learning process for me in terms of understanding how the oil and gas companies operate. The project was designed for 3 companies: Baroid, Dresser Kellog, and Root & Brown. While I was delivering the project, the Nigerian Naira (local currency) devalued so much that this job, which I expected to deliver the highest profits, turned out to be the greatest loss. Nevertheless, I remained determined to delivering the highest quality and service without cutting any corners, as I believed that delivering this job to the highest standards would attract all the other major oil companies to work with me. I delivered the project as planned, on schedule, and everyone was impressed by the work I delivered. This job

did indeed attracted the other oil companies and I started getting one job after the other, rapidly expanding my company through projects that kept getting larger and larger. DRIVERS If you believe that nothing is guaranteed then you will direct your efforts and focus towards straightening everything that’s off track. Working in Nigeria with a lack of basic infrastructure exposes you to the fact that nothing is guaranteed. Nigeria is a very difficult and tough place to work in; we always have plans to forecast and overcome the obstacles we are faced with on a day-to-day basis. You learn that things don’t necessarily go as plan and this promotes your creativity and flexibility. You become immune to the disruptive changes around you and instead of simply being reactive, you learn how to be pro-active and arrange alternative plans. It is all about being prepared, not being afraid, and knowing that no matter the issue there is always a way around it – this is my firm belief. The best way to predict the future is to create it. PASSIONS Art is my passion, I escape through exploring art. I have been an art collector ever since I was 17. I go out of my way to explore new artists, develop them, help and direct them; it’s one of the things that brings out a deep relaxation in me. I also enjoy travelling and exploring new territories and cultures. Simplicity, dignity, and morals are all things that are important to me.

PHILANTHROPY I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe in simply donating funds to charities due to the lack of traceability involved once these funds are donated. I do support quite a few charities such as the SOS village in Nigeria and the Medecin Sans Frontiers in Monaco but I recently set up my own foundation, the Said Haidar Al Jawad Foundation, in my memory of my late father. The Shaljawad Foundation is dedicated to youth empowerment through education. I am currently mentoring kids from West Africa and Lebanon, directing them, supporting their educational endeavours and training them to become entrepreneurs. I finance the entire foundation myself and spend a lot of time, daily, talking and supporting my mentees.

ENCOURAGING WOMEN INTO BUSINESS Educating girls from a young age and preparing them during their school years is key in encouraging them to later becoming confidant women. They need to develop their capabilities and the confidence in their abilities to be future leaders. They also need significant exposure to various fields and disciplines in order to find an area in which they can thrive. They must be taught to take risks and overstep the boundaries that they often set for themselves. VISION No matter how tough times can be I always have faith and believe that things will only get better and focus on turning things around to the way I want them. I am never deterred by obstacles no matter how big they are nor do I stress about anything, I keep things aside and deal with them at the right time.

FASHION

Pitti Uomo 93 By Daria Longinotti

Menswear collections are staged from the 9th to the 12th January 2018 at Pitti Uomo, edition number 93, set and stage of the most international men’s fashion show in the world. The theme is Pitti Live Movie, a real film festival that the protagonists are all the actors in, the textile-clothing supply chain that is punctually found twice a year in Fortezza da Basso in Florence. A film that tells a story of the fashion of today: its energy, transversality, of it being ethical and sustainable, traditional and contemporary. Among the stands of the ancient exhibition space, masterpiece of Renaissance architecture that was erected by the Medici we find 1,230 brands, among them new entries, great returns and authoritative confirmations while the entire city lives for 4 days a dream Red Carpet between classic, innovative and provocative looks, accessories and perfumes: anticipations for the autumn winter 2018-2019. Fourteen sections on 60,000-meter paintings for a 360-degree journey into the world of men’s fashion. In Florence commercial and cultural excellence meet each other, buyers and journalists from all over the world, protagonists and witnesses of this “world fair” as the administrator rightly defined it Delegate of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone. A unique showcase that turns the spotlight on international creativity, on the scouting of new talent institutions, on the search for sustainable and environmentally friendly purchasing methods, on the lifestyle for men and on an increasingly sophisticated and attractive selection of brands. Pitti Uomo is the first stage for the presentation of the trends for next autumn and winter, then the relay race in Milan with Milano Moda Uomo to create an intense and influential Italian fashion week. Among the initiatives of this “cinematographic” edition with special posters for each section of the fair, the “dressing”

of light by Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia in the performance “The fashion is art” signed by the contemporary artist Felice Limosani, initiative promoted by the wool mill, deserving a special mention is Luigi Ricceri of Prato; in the Salone dei Cinquecento of Palazzo Vecchio, under the battles of Vasari, for the first time ever, the show of a legend of male elegance, Brooks Brothers, has chosen Florence to celebrate it’s 200 years of history and tradition among blue blazers and button down shirts; in Piazza della Signoria at Palazzo della Mercanzia the spotlight on Gucci Garden lights up, a place of wonders between super exclusive creations of the historic brand for sale only here, the three Michelin stars of Massimo Bottura’s restaurant and the renewed Gucci Musem by the curator and critic Maria Luisa Frisa. At the Stazione Leopolda there will be a fashion event with two consecutive shows, never seen before. The protagonists are two Japanese creatives, guest designers of this edition: Jun Takahashi who designs Undercover and Takahiromiyashita by The Soloist. Among the events in the program that are particularly popular is the Gala Dinner at the opening of the exhibition offered by the Center of Florence for Italian Fashion and held in the majestic and scenic context of the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti. Among the guests of honor is Roberto Capucci, Master of High Fashion, returning at the age of 87 to Florence where he first appeared in the Sala Bianca in 1951, to inaugurate the amazing exhibition of costume designs at the Andito degli Angiolini made for the theater entitled “Capucci dionisiaco”. For four days the city comes alive with an unstoppable succession of events, inaugurations, breakfasts, cocktails, dinners, parties and long nights that seem to never end. Stylish and tireless, elegant and sometimes excessive actors and protagonists of this unmissable spectacle frantically travel the luxurious and historic streets of this incredible city that for centuries has been the ideal theater and stage for every form of art, including fashion.

photo credit: Daria Longinotti

FASHION

New York Fashion Week R eport By Angelika Bolliger

New York, New York, the financial and fashion capital of the world. It is where big fortunes are made, bigger fortunes lost, but fashion somehow manages to stay alive, extravagant and very wearable unlike some of the gorgeous Haute Couture shows in Paris or London. Clothes exude the cities energy, attitude and mood even the foreign brands with a US presence. In fact more international designers decide to showcase their lines in New York instead of Europe. That does not reflect badly on the old continent it just means that fashion is in need of a new world vibe, new energy, strong city attitude and diverse ideas. This February we were lucky to witness some more magic created by Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford, Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang and Jeremy Scott to name a few. Bottega Veneta an Italian fashion brand associated with remarkable craftsmanship, specializing in unique leather technology, decided to showcase their new Fall/Winter collection in New York as part of the promotion of a big opening of their new flagship store in Manhattan on Madison Avenue.

Among the events in the program that are particularly popular is the Gala Dinner at the opening of the exhibition offered by the Center of Florence for Italian Fashion and held in the majestic and scenic context of the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti. They decided on the New York stock exchange as their venue and they had an amazing turn out of the brand’s followers including Pryianka Chopra, Salma Hayek, Julianne Moore and many more. The show was very rich and opulent in colour and texture. Irina Shayk entered the runway in a gorgeous, ruched at the waist, mustard yellow, velvet dress/coat sweeping the ground. The piece was special for it’s texture, richness of colour and elegance that it exuded. Gigi Hadid also wore a show stopping number, a floor length black silk, and velvet gown to die for. Some dresses and coats had a geometric look seemingly inspired by the cities architecture. I especially liked the gorgeous silk pajamas worn under amazing coats to give that I don’t give a damn look, I am strong, I am cool and I can wear pjs On Park Avenue if I feel like it.

Tom Ford always liked to ad his personal touch through his sex references. The last few seasons we saw little locks on stilettos, 70’s style leotards and this time ‘Pussy Power’ written in crystals on a handbag. There was no reading between the lines it was right there in your face. An old truth about the power of a women even if it was presented in a slightly pornographic sort of way, it was cool. His collection was vibrant, full of Technicolor cheetah printed coats, colourful leggings, huge earnings. I liked the silver lame blazer and the snakeskin printed suit. It had an 80’s feel borrowing inspiration from the Italian masters like Versace or Cavalli. It was kitsch, but great kitsch. Fun, sexy, retro yet modern. With Pointer Sisters on the speakers one could easily imagine being in Studio 54 with Diana Ross sporting a sequin oversized sweatshirt with zebra print leggings and a feminist crystal embellished pussy power handbag. Tom Ford has combined his European and American sensibilities both east coat and most recently west coast creating a strong, fresh, fun collection and homage to 80’s and 90’s Italian fashion. The front row was star studded with Julienne Moore, Zayn Malik, Hailey Baldwin, Anwar Hadid, La La Anthony and Sistine Stallone admiring Ford’s fun creations. Alexander Wang, the NY rebel, decided that this was his last show during fashion week and that he will do his runways only in June and December from now on with little glimpses throughout the year. He chose the old Conde Nast office on Times Square for his show which was partially inspired by office bitches, which in his words are strong, independent business women who don’t conform to the 8-5 kind of job. We saw the usual Wang studs finishing on gloves, belts and crystal lunch bags. The bad girl, Wang girl attitude. A lot of black, some asymmetrical body hugging dresses, zippers, and mink collars worn over jumpers and small cat eye, Matrix sunglasses. It was classical Wang fashion, which won’t disappoint his followers.

Victoria Beckham; an English woman in New York. She has been very consistent in her style and her message for the past 10 years promoting an image of a strong, independent, minimalist women who’s power lies in choosing understated designs. Like Phoebe Philo when she was at Celine, Victoria continues that similar vibe in her own line. Good quality, great shape an elegant colour palette. Her fans can depend on her to deliver a smooth, wearable, strong collection every season based on a powerful coat and well cut trousers. This time around we saw some beautiful, opulent wool coats in olive green and khaki. You could see her English heritage coming through her designs. The coats had a military, country fishing and shooting kind of vibe. Trousers were long, covering up the shoes, wide fabric belts synched at the waist made the coats and jackets look stronger, more powerful. The palette was earthy and clean. Everyone loved the leopard print coat, which is such a chic and universal piece along with a mustard yellow patent leather coat. Victoria was supported by her husband David and their children, who looked very proud of their mum. The show proved to be a success. Jeremy Scott put out a crazy show as always filled with space type fabric skirts and glitter, cotton candy tights, furry moon boots and neon wigs. Gigi Hadid opened the show followed by Stella Maxwell rocking insane designs, bondage style inspired by the Star Wars, Star Trek and the Fifth Element. It was a crowd pleaser for those who love to party, music people and anyone else not afraid of dressing with an edge. The guests later attended the after party among them 21 Savage, model Winnie Harlow, Ellen Von Unwerth and Jodie Harsh. Fol l ow m e on Insta g ra m @ 5 i nch stile tto

FASHION

Milan Fashion Week By Ekaterina Shevlyakova

MAIN HIGHLIGHTS OF MILAN FASHION WEEK 2018. Never has the weather been so cold and rainy during Milan Fashion Week as it was this February. The fabulous international jet set and fashion crowd were literally soaked under rain one day or freezing in the cold another. If there had to be a motto for this MFW it would be “fashion under the rain”. Top bloggers and influencers, international celebrities and models wearing their kinky outfits put plastic boots on their sexy little shoes and raincoats on top of the gorgeous gowns. However the rain and cold didn’t stop the party and fashion week in Milan, as usual, was one of the most awaited fashion happenings. Without any doubt, the most talked about and exciting fashion shows of this season was the Gucci fashion show. This time Gucci and the designer Alessandro Michele presented something that no one has shown before – on the runway the models were carrying copies of their heads instead of their bags and one model was cradling a pretty little dragon down the runway. This iconic Dragon actually became the real symbol of this fashion week! Dressed up in colourful and multi ethnical clothing the models represented Alessandro Michele’s metaphor for how people today build their identities and undergo self-regeneration through the powers of modern technology, Instagram and the Gucci brand too. “We are the Dr. Frankenstein of our lives,” said Michele. “There’s a clinical clarity about what I am doing. I was thinking of a space that represents the creative act. I wanted to represent the lab I have in my head. It’s physical work, like a surgeon’s.” 34

The collection full of Russian themed head scarfs, original folkloristic costumes and dresses, huge Gucci logos on many creations had a very unisex style. Michele explained it as a logical breakdown of the gender in new clothing – according to him in modern society everybody should decide if they want to dress up as a boy or as a girl. A comfortable thought for those who hesitate with what to wear in the morning! However, the return of the head scarfs could have definitely helped to resist the cold Milan weather… The international fashion crowd was both impressed and shocked by Michele’s creations, but even though the criticism was rather high the fact remains that Gucci is one of the leaders in terms of sales at the moment. Carrying an animal instead of a bag down the runway was literally the new fashion trend of the week. Tods’s answer to the “cyborg” dragon of Gucci were the puppies that the models were carrying on the runway. The natural beauty Gigi Hadid opened the brand’s show carrying a little black and white puppy under her arm and wearing the most comfortable leather pants that any of us would wear on an autumn winter day. Very stylish and practical, full of brown, yellow and grey colours Tod’s new collection on the Milan runway was an example of comfort and class. Another evidence of real class was the new collection of Paul Surridge for Roberto Cavalli. Held in a spacious warehouse build-

ing on the outskirts of Milan Roberto Cavalli ’s fashion show was pure class and glamour. Attending the fashion show were the hottest stars of fashion and young models like Lucky Blue Smith, Stormie Bree, Golden Barbie, Johannes Huebl and many other. Paul Surridge has done the tricky job of preserving the ravishing glamour heritage of Roberto Cavalli, but adding to the new collection a touch of British class and modern comfort. ‘”Glamour for me is attraction, attraction is confidence, and confidence is comfort. If you’re not comfortable, you’re not confident” says the designer. Indeed, the models, including the lovely Bella Hadid in the lead, looked very comfortable wearing the leather jackets and skirts, chic blazers and the classic Cavalli snake or leopard evening dresses. The theme of a song from INXS remembering the roaring 90 s at the end of the fashion show made it a bit nostalgic. But Cavalli is definitely back and presenting a new comfortable and modern approach to classic glamour. Another brand that is keeping up the revival of the 90s theme in their new collections is definitely Versace. Presenting her new collection at the historical palazzo Reale of Milan, Donatella Versace proved that she is faithful to the classic Versace prints of the 90s created by the great Gianni. Any piece of the collection shows its origin – from high boots to pop art yellow and bright pink dresses and jackets. 35

Black and gold and the classic medusa rule in the new collection and prove that Versace is always Versace, no matter what happens. This year the show was separated into two parts as the Royal Palace of Milan wasn’t able to hold so many spectators. The guests of the show who arrived early waited patiently to see the show under the pouring rain and extreme cold of that evening. Leading the models on the runway of Palazzo Reale was the most beautiful and famous Russian model Natalia Vodianova. The same evening Bulgari threw their usual party at the Bulgari hotel of Milan and this was the most important venue. Full of celebrities, wearing the new Bulgari bags and accessories, the party was crowded but definitely a success. Their brand ambassador Jasmine Saunders, known as Golden Barbie arrived at the event sparkling in a glittering gold gown, a snake-headed, bejewelled beast wrapped seductively around her neck. The most important event of the fashion week was definitely the auction and party held by Anna dello Russo, one of the most famous Italian fashion journalists and the editor of Vogue Japan. Known as the ultimate fashionista and for her extravagant outfits Anna organised an amazing event and party during which most of the private collection was sold off at the auction to the guests. The aim of the auction was to support new designers and the evening was reserved for VIPs and celebrities with a secret location and an incredible setting.

FASHION

The best shows on Sunday were definitely Trussardi and Laura Biagiotti .Classic yet modern and extremely trendy, Trussardi were presenting their collection in a new location. Tommaso Trussardi and Michelle Hunziger as usual were great hosts of the show. The most beautiful couple of Milan were one of the main attractions of the fashion show and the collection was very fresh, sporty and at the same time very classic Trussardi. Lavinia Biagiotti was faithful to the location and the show as usual took place in the elegant theatre Teatro Piccolo. It was the first collection that Lavinia designed herself after Laura passed away and it was a success. Elegant and modern creations proved that Lavinia is a perfect heir to the throne of Biagiotti. As usual the fashion show was full of Italian celebrities and had a special elegant touch to it. Biagiotti and Trussardi are definitely two extraordinary “made in Italy” brands that prove that the real “Made in Italy” is always alive and that the herit

age of the founders is carried on perfectly by the new generation. Milan Fashion Week was a great success, Made in the USA Tommy Hilfinger presented his lively and colourful creations in Milan with Gigi Hadid as his muse. All American style with the colours of the American flag and sporty outfits rocked Milan on Sunday evening. Cold, but happy visitors to this fashion week proved that even bad weather conditions can’t stop the love for fashion and the desire to see new trends. I received a touching message on my Facebook paige from a man asking me if I could share an invitation to a fashion show for his girlfriend who has been very ill, but her huge desire was to see a fashion show. I contacted them in the morning to say I had an invitation for her in the evening. They rushed from another city and in a couple of hours they were already in Milan to pick up the invitation. Fashion makes people dream and sometime it can help to heal or even grow as it is not only business, but also a fairytale and one of the most beautiful forms of expression of modern art.

FASHION

Fashion

Paris Week 2018/19

By Aldy Gdowska Przylipiak Di Cappadocia

Paris Fashion Week is the last appointment during the fashion season but one of the most important, where all the luxury fashion houses as well as small, up and coming designers propose their style for the next year, for the Winter 2019 season. Paris as usual is full of celebrities, models, musicians, influencers, prs and events. Fashion world buyers, designers, showrooms and their clients are there to see the preview of their wardrobe for the following year. SAINT LAURENT This Fashion week opened with a spectacular show from Saint Laurent in front of the Eiffel Tower. The whole of Eiffel Square was shining, lit by a huge spotlight and together with the music brought to the public a rock

concert atmosphere. Models going around with small leather shorts and high hill boots, iconic style Saint Laurent jackets in different fabrics showing a little burst of chiffon with lace tops and shirts. Sexy short dresses with 80’s shoulders with wild v-neck openings. Saint Laurent woman is sexy, self-confident and rock as usual. OFF-WHITE AND HEAVENSAKE The most talked about designer of the moment, young and creative, loved by buyers, press and celebrities from all over the world is Virgil Abloh. Off-White proposed extravagant style mixing luxury with street-wear. Virgil proposed the ‘Sex in the city’ women, cosmopolitan and confident yet practical. Bustier, t-shirts, leather, sequins and light silk matches together, that’s how Virgil presents Off-White’s modern femininity.

After the show followed the party in the Crillion Hotel with a special drink selection of Heavensake cocktails. Designers, influencers and models were all in attendance. Off-White and Heavensake in the lobby bar of the historical Hotel, which is known well for its Bal des Debutantes in Paris. The atmosphere become hot testing oriental sake drinks accompanied by music from Blond:ish DJ. BALMAIN Of course we could not have missed the Balmain Show where all the glamour happens. Silver metallic, shiny pink, grey and blue with a touch of sequins looking like sparkling scales. The new style for Balmain are the day forms, which are a bit less slim fitting than usual but in metallic tones. The In the Night part was filled with short sexy dresses, multicoloured in strong tones, flue pink, yellow, green, orange and blue seeming like a rainbow in a fashion silhouette of models. Wearing Balmain it is impossible to pass by unnoticed. The design genius of Oliver Rusting, loved by women, models and actors who want to be sexy, transforms the iconic style of Pierre Balmain using technical metallic fabrics for a sensual, futuristic woman. Sexy and glamorous. Oliver also come back in 80’s forms with pronounced shoulders in his special jacket and in mini dresses, you could not miss the Swarovski and sequined embroidery on the outfits. Shoe details in transparent PVC complete the futuristic genius look. GIVENCHY Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy Fall Winter 2018 proposed a darker, quite raw style but with a really sophisticated accent of Parisian style. Simple but with special details, with the addition of some shiny finishes. We can find huge Bows on the shirt, plissé drop dresses and amazing fur coats with a few colour fantasies. The designer gives a woman elegance, simplicity and feminist allure.

BALENCIAGA For Demna Cristobal it wasn’t difficult to catch with attention to detail the style from the archives of Cristobal Balenciaga and to present it in a modern way. Classic black dresses with mini variation, velvet or fantasy drapery mini dresses, female plissé skirts in fluo outfits or a mix of strong colour patterns and fantasy all together only for real fashion addicts who know well how to play with fashion. We can find a touch of couture in male and female jackets with pronounced waists. VALENTINO Pierpaolo Piccioli from Valentino came back to long dresses with chiffon and silk fabrics, over-sized but romantic forms. The Valentino collection for Fall Winter 2018/19 is simple but special all matched in strong colours passing from light pink to fuchsia, to red, classic red Valentino and Bordeaux. Dare to mix red and fuchsia pink in a day outfit, which can become the evening one. Dare but dare with elegance and style. Fluid forms and fabric with layers. Valentino woman is romantic but at the same time more sophisticated and a connoisseur. CHANEL The most attended show during Fashion Week is always Chanel for its spectacular genius of design, for Karl Lagerfeld and of course for the Grand Palais atmosphere. The dream of every fashion and luxury lover is to attend the Chanel show. It is not only the fashion event which presents the new collection, it is also society meeting journalists, buyers, influencers, celebrities, top clients, everybody with some piece or a total look from the new collection. Grand Palais dressed in the autumn atmosphere with a huge forest and leaves everywhere, brings you immediately into the next Fall Winter dream. Chanel came back to celebrate nature, in every single detail. Using iconic buckle jackets and coats in soft nat-

ural and autumn colours from beige, browns and grey shadows to dark green. Long dresses, short and long jackets, classic long coats, simple classic skirts and feminine under the knee length trapeze skirts, as well as over sized trousers, knitwear dresses with natural colours and fur jackets. All get strength with details so important for the Maison, they give the women elegance, simplicity and feminine allure with lurex finishing, Chanel pearls, collars and jewellery, gold-bronze metallic accessories and pieces of strong fluo colour inserts, details which complete looks in a perfect Chanel mood. The grand final with all the models, all of the outfits, all the colours and all the details walking in the forest. Femininity, sophisticated, elegant and romantic at the same time.

LV The last appointment of the winter fashion season is the Louis Vuitton Show. Of course where is a better place to celebrate than in the historical Palace du Louvre. Nicolas Ghesquiere brings luxury sport style to a simple, classic and elegant outfit matching classic skirts with precious sweatshirts and shirts. Dresses take a female form but with sporty stripes details. The lines are simple, quite classic as well as colours, which are soft and warm. Welcome in the space with LV uniforms where the genius of the outfits is in the details of the bags, gloves, shoes and belts, more luxurious than ever.

FASHION

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INTERIORS

Design Trends

2018

By Ksenia Mezentseva

In January Maison & Objet named Cecilie Manz the designer of the year. The “Queen of Dutch design” gave an interesting presentation at the show. Among other topics the importance of materiality, texture and colors were highlighted. “Colors are not something you splash on at the last moment. It should be build up from the beginning of the process”.

Color is definitely one of the main trends of 2018. Bold, bright, vibrant. Do not expect to see a lot of neutrals this year. The main colors of the year are strong blues and vibrant greens. Panton named Ultra Violet it’s color of 2018. From mass market Ikea to exclusive brands like Fendi Casa we see emerald, teal and deep blue in major ads and collections. When dealing with bright fashionable colors that are trendy one year and may not be the next, I suggest using them in accessories – cushions, vases, throws, even chairs that can be easily changed in the future. Another creative way to stand out and to highlight your house is with a colorful door! I am a huge fan of doors - they are gateways to our homes and they are the first glimpses of the interior that one sees. If you are not a fan of the afore mentioned bright shades, then the upcoming pastels may be for you. Pistachio, lime and baby peach

are also going to appear in this year’s interiors. Rich and expensive textures are still in trend in 2018. Natural stones like marble and onyx are very much in. For finishes think brass, bronze, black nickel and copper and be free to intermix them. Just remember that when mixing metals pick one dominant metal to carry the room and use others as accents. Fringe is making its way into fashion in both lights and furniture. And of course luxurious velvets - we will see them in jewel tones and deep palettes across major design houses. Eco-themed-style is definitely going to enter many interiors. Whether it’s tropical patterns in fabrics or stump-like shaped side tables the trend is clearly in.

Personalized design is taking over from curated and measured designs. People want their homes to look different and not like a magazine ad. They want to come to a home filled with objects that create memories and aspirations. Thus custom made pieces are going to be essential and details will play an important role. Wood marquetry, fringe tassels, or sophisticated patterns can act as key nuances to a bespoke distinctive design. And last but not the least is my recent favorite topic - ceilings. And how delighted I am to say that I am not alone in stressing its importance. In 2018 the ceiling is expected to take a more central stage. Colors, patterns, lacquer, timber beams and even wallpaper can lift your ceiling to a new height.

And what will be out? 1. Black and white as well as all white, beige and very neutral interiors. Given the upcoming trend for color, it is apparent that the time for all white kitchens, bathrooms and beige bedrooms has passed. 2. Millennial pink has been very popular in the past several years but it is going to become outdated pretty soon. 3. Industrial chic and Scandinavian styles are going out. People lean towards warmth, details and comfort and away from minimalism and â&#x20AC;&#x153;hotel styleâ&#x20AC;?. Midcentury modern is probably next and it will still stay through 2018.

PLACES

Fa i r m o n t R e y J ua n C a r l o s I BARCELONAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ONE AND ONLY URBAN RESORT

This vibrant city has established itself as one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important cultural and business centers, a renaissance symbolized by the hosting of the 1992 Olympics for which the Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I was built. A wealth of UNESCO World Heritage sites, wonderful dining experiences and world-class shopping nestled between mountains and sea create a destination full of charm. The elegance and sophistication of this iconic urban resort in Barcelona has made it the number one choice of the international jet set for its excellent service, exceptional cuisine and perfect combination of refinement and comfort. Set in 25,000 square meters of breathtaking 19th century gardens and revealing an unparalleled view of the stunning skyline; this luxurious urban hotel provides guests with a tranquil retreat in Barcelona. With a privileged location and surrounded by major attractions such as the famous Camp Nou stadium and the Barcelona Polo Club, Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I will ensure the most memorable stay with impeccable service and glamorous character. The contemporary design of its 432 guest rooms and suites greets the sophisticated traveller with natural colours and chrome finishes. The guest rooms stun at first sight with distinctively large windows revealing incomparable views over the city. Decorated with warm undertones providing calm and peacefulness, the distinguished guest rooms are enhanced by art pieces inspired by the city of Barcelona itself, lending each space a true contemporary feel. 44

Gastronomy – A resplendent combination of innovation and authenticity. Restaurants and bars offer a sumptuous locally and internationally inspired cuisine, as well as cutting-edge cocktails and an extensive wine selection. Claudio Aguirre, the acclaimed chef behind the scenes, creates this gastronomic experience with a deep culinary understanding driven by incomparable passion. Wellness – Royal Polo Club Fitness & Spa – The most exclusive wellness treatments and services. Guest can access the exclusive 5,400 m2 of facilities where they can enjoy revolutionary spa treatments, fitness facilities and luxury products to help achieve harmony of the body, mind and soul.

The urban resort has been recently awarded with prestigious international awards from the luxury hotel sector such as the 2017 World Luxury Hotel Awards, that recognize it as the Best Luxury Hotel and Conference Center in Southern Europe, the Best Luxury Business Hotel in Spain and the Best Luxury Destination for Weddings in the country. Also recognized with the 2017 Reader’s CHOICE Award as the Best Hotel in Barcelona by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler and awarded with the International Hotel Award for the Best International Convention Hotel 2017-2018.

WATCHES

The A rt of Time by Duke Theerathada interview by Catherine McQueen

Developing the Interest Born in Washington DC to Thai parents who had relocated to the US, Duke attended The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill where he studied Political Science. Shortly after graduating he moved back to Thailand to pursue his career. This proved a wise move and he has helped international companies such as Orange, GE and ING Bank both enter into the market and restructure existing ventures in Thailand. This included several years at TMB Bank for whom he shot an award winning commercial. I recommend a look, based on a true story it is truly inspiring, you can find it online if you put into Google “TMB” and “Football”. Duke now runs his own private practice focused on personal executive development. A successful career in business has no doubt helped him to be able to engage in, an albeit surprisingly, lucrative hobby; that of watch collecting. Starting the Collection The first watch that Duke received was a gift from his father; it was an Omega. Duke states that even when he was a young boy and could not even actually tell the time he wanted to wear a watch. It felt sophisticated and grown up. Today it is the art of the watch that he loves. He likens them to cars; both 46

the look and the functionality drive the appeal. The collecting bug got to him when he became interested in milestone watches. Looking to purchase the first automatic chronograph Duke ended up buying the Seiko, Zenith and Heuer/Breitling as most people felt the race to that milestone was actually a virtual tie between all 3 brands. Milestone Watches When looking for a milestone watch you are essentially looking for a watch that has served an amazing function, like being the first watch to go to Space, or reach a depth below 600 meters. Or one that is a breakthrough watch: such as the first automatic chronograph watches or the first Steel watches created by Gerald Genta. Even watches that are associated with a strong personality can command a huge premium and not just the watch that they themselves might have worn but also that entire make of watch. An example of this is the Paul Newman Daytona. His Rolex Cosmograph Daytona sold for a record $17.8m last year at Phillips auctioneers in New York. It had been expected to sell for $1m but demand was higher than expected. The watch had been a gift from his wife Joan Woodward; she had it engraved with the message, “Drive carefully”. Another is the Jackie Onassis Cartier Tank. Her watch

sold last year at Christies in New York for $379,500. This was 3 times what had been expected. What is interesting about both of these sales is the halo effect that the high prices achieved put on all the other models of the same watch. The Vintage Market The vintage market appears to be where it is at right now. In that last 5 years Duke tells me that the prices of Vintage watches have sky rocketed whereas the sales of new luxury watches have dropped. Maybe there is a correlation here? Anyway as with all markets the basic principles of supply and demand apply. Demand for quality, particularly the milestone watches, is high and supply is low. As Duke explains to me, if you are lucky enough to get hold of one you won’t want to sell it. To him this is why it is almost a guilt free pleasure, he can buy the watches, enjoy wearing them and then pass them onto his children with, the way that prices are at the moment, the value in many cases actually increasing. Duke believes that the reason that the market for Vintage is so strong is that the new watches are simply not as interesting as the old ones, the prices are very high and in most cases the value depreciates as soon as you have bought them, the main exceptions to that being Patek Phillipes and certain Rolexes. To him the heyday of watch making was the 1970’s when “the styling was more innovative and the design funkier”. Where to Buy Duke looks mainly to the auctions to buy his watches. He also has trusted dealers in Miami and New York and some in Hong Kong and Tokyo. He once flew to Zurich and then drove 3 hours to Stuttgart to buy a watch from a dealer there. He also advises if you are new to collecting watches it is ok to start small. You can still find collector’s pieces that won’t break the bank and of course still have the potential to increase in value. Even Swatch watches are

being sold on eBay for double the original price. I suppose its back to the basic sales principle that something is only ever worth what someone else is willing to pay for it and with watches there are all kinds of people all over the world looking for a certain milestone “piece”. That piece then has a value that people will pay a premium for. Avoiding the Pitfalls Whilst buying on EBay was something Duke was happy to do a few years ago he feels that due to the soaring popularity in vintage watches this is no longer the case. The gains on offer have attracted unscrupulous sellers who can create “Frankenstein watches” this is essentially a watch that looks like an original but might in fact contain separate individual parts from all different kinds of watches that have been put together by someone who is certainly not the original watch maker. The provenance of the watch then comes into question. Again the analogy of a car comes into play. Like a beautiful old Ferrari that from the outside looks like a Ferrari but actually if you lift the bonnet the engine is from Volkswagen. That’s the kind of thing you need to look out for when buying vintage watches online Duke tells me. His advice to avoid getting scammed is to do your research. A lot of reading and studying needs to be done in order to avoid being ripped off as well as doing online comparisons. Another good move is to join a watch community where the people involved are passionate and knowledgeable on the subject. Dream Pieces Currently Duke’s dream piece to buy would be the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona, not his actual watch but one of the same model. With regard to Patek Phillipe watches apparently it is the Nautilus collection that everyone wants so of course that commands a premium. The Nautilus watch came out in the 1970’s and along with Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak watch,

they were the first watches to be made out of steel that were treated and marketed as if they had been made out of a precious metal. In this way the steel watches had the same prices as gold watches commanded in the day. The designer of these watches was the legendary Gerald Genta. These pieces now command a premium as they were the first production or “A” series watches. Duke is lucky enough to already have the Patek Nautilus A series and the AP Royal Oak A series in his collection. Personal Favorites In a similar fashion to the Paul Newman watch Duke’s favorite piece in his own collection is the one that was given to him by his wife; it is an Enicar. He notes that it has a beautiful 70’s design and of course to him it also holds sentimental value. Another personal favorite from his collection is the so-called “King of Thailand Watch”. This was a special commemorative watch made by Jaeger LeCoultre as a tribute to King Rama IX who passed in 2016. Only 39 of these watches were made and their value is further increased by the huge amount of respect that the Thai people had for this King. Others love it for its distinctive yellow color, which is rarely produced for Jaeger LeCoultre Reversos. To Duke what he loves most about collecting watches is the way in which it brings people together. He recalls a time he was sitting in an important meeting with a Government official. Duke remembers that he was wearing a relatively obscure Omega PloProf diving watch. The official noticed it immediately, he too was a big fan of Omega; “it’s a great ice-breaker”. Not only are they likely to go up in value they can help you in business too. Duke believes that the prices of vintage watches are currently soaring because people are finally beginning to realize their value not just as watches but also as works of art in themselves.

WATCHES8

The Baikal Ice M arathon 2018 Listvyanka, March 7, 2018

Located

Siberia, Lake Baikal is the largest, deepest, and richest freshwater lake in terms of biodiversity in the world. The annual Baikal Ice Marathon offers competitors from around the globe the opportunity to race across the frozen surface with the goal to help keep the water clean. With their participation in the 14th Baikal Ice Marathon, Carl F. Bucherer once again demonstrated a respectful attitude toward the environment and the brand’s commitment to the value of preservation. in

The idea of participating in one of the world’s most difficult tests of strength and endurance was born in September 2017, when the Swiss watch manufacturer’s Executive Vice President Sales, Laurent Lecamp, and friend of the brand, renowned businessman, and four-time IRONMAN finisher Vladimir Voloshin first met at the opening of the Carl F. Bucherer boutique in Moscow, Russia. Along with the values of the watch brand itself, both men share a passion for sport, considering it a source of inner strength and inspiration that allows them to move forward innovatively while preserving traditions. Challenging Race on a One-Off Running Surface One of the top 25 adventure marathons in the world, the Baikal Ice Marathon is both psychologically and physically demanding. The event is held at the start of March, when practically the entire lake is covered in ice. It is a long, cold, lonely 42.2-kilometer trail across the barren white landscape where progress is marked only by checkpoints positioned at 5-kilometer intervals. The vast open spaces, the bright rays of the sun, and the incredible, breathtaking beauty of the landscape help the hundreds of elite runners complete the course between the opposite shores. To prepare for the challenging race, Laurent Lecamp and Vladimir Voloshin, who live in different parts of the world, developed a groundbreaking formula for cooperation based on their shared outlook and values. Due to extreme weather conditions, temperatures of –31°C, and a wind speed

of 108 km/h, this year’s marathon had to be cut short after 21 kilometers, turning it into a challenging half-marathon with 153 participants. Laurent Lecamp and Vladimir Voloshin both finished 56th. Clean Water Preservation Run Lake Baikal is located on the border of the Irkutsk region and Buryatia and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The lake’s shape is reminiscent of a giant crescent moon, stretching some 620 kilometers from the Northeast to the Southwest. Its width ranges from 24 to 79 kilometers. The ice marathon crosses over one of the most beautiful parts of the lake. As part of the Winteriad, a larger winter games festival that takes place at Lake Baikal, the Baikal Ice Marathon is held for a noble cause – the preservation of clean water. All of the participation fees from all of the athletes are donated in full to protect the lake and to maintain its purity and beauty. By participating in the event, Carl F. Bucherer is once more demonstrating their commitment to the value of preservation by supporting various international environmental projects. A Strong Friendship The Baikal Ice Marathon marked the start of a close relationship between Carl F. Bucherer and Vladimir Voloshin. In April, Vladimir Voloshin visited the company’s headquarters in Lucerne and the manufactory in Lengnau, Switzerland. “Being a friend of the watch brand Carl F. Bucherer is a great honor and a great responsibility at the same time,” said Vladimir Voloshin. “We complement one another perfectly because we share the same goals and values. Reliability, accuracy, and quality are extremely important to me, as these characteristics are what enable people to achieve good results in both business and sport.” Laurent Lecamp said: “Our shared experience of coping with extreme situations was unforgettable. It was proof that together, we can overcome any obstacle.” Vladimir Voloshin With a career in international marketing that spans more than 20 years, Vladimir Voloshin has worked for global companies in the Baltic states, Scandinavia, the United Kingdom, and Russia. He is the Managing Partner of Newman Sport & Business Consulting, founder of the international IRONSTAR triathlon competitions and the ROSA RUN festival, host and moderator of a talk show featuring business leaders and top athletes, and an expert speaker at international marketing conferences and at TED events. He is also the first President of the Moscow School of Management SKOLKOVO Alumni Association. About Carl F. Bucherer The Carl F. Bucherer name has been synonymous with quality, innovation and passion since 1888. Founded in Lucerne, the Swiss family business has become an internationally renowned global brand characterized by its founder’s pioneering spirit and the cosmopolitan esprit of its home. Carl F. Bucherer is one of the few remaining family-owned Swiss watch manufacturers and is now headed in the third generation by Jörg G. Bucherer. Timepieces and movements are developed and produced in the brand’s own workshops in Switzerland. Milestones are the manufacturer’s own movement families, which are partly driven by an external rotor – an innovation that Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put into series production. With its exclusive watch creations, Carl F. Bucherer epitomizes high-quality Swiss craftsmanship, unmistakable style and detailed sophistication.

ECONOM ICS

D emocr acy: A C ivil

responsibility By Yaron Hubin

Whether we allow ourselves to learn from history or not, there is no denying that there are patterns worth observing. Since our humble beginnings to our smug present, sapiens have propelled from our natural spot at the middle to the top of the food chain. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to note that we appreciated our place in history as part of a complex system in which we had to survive. From the very start, our successes were tied to a sense of clear accountability. The resources were there but standing between them was our desire and ability to survive using the natural skill sets to adapt, fight and communicate. As time and circumstances developed, raw, natural and unforgiving levels of accountability watered down more and more as the complexity of society, economics and governance started dictating the new changing modus operandis around the world. Some conditions for mankind grew harder, and others â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;easierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; but our access to these resources that ultimately gave sapiens a fighting chance grew harder to attain in their entirety. Ergo, so did our relationship with nature, fellow man and accountability. Today, that lack of accountability is polluting democracy as we find ourselves at a point in which too much information is forcing people to focus on sound bites instead of inspiring discussions. There are some that champion the cause of mobilization, quality information and inspiring entrepreneurship but factors make it difficult to sustain. It requires mass mobilization, confidence and stamina to execute. The dominance of mind

numbing journalism has falsely led citizens to believe they are informed has covered much of the electorate with a veil of ignorance to the deeper truths. Rising economic uncertainty, concerns over security and political/social volatility has triggered citizens to retract from global to worry more local. This makes sense when you consider Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs emphasizing human’s basic needs as warmth, security, safety, food, water and rest. It concludes that when people lack those basic needs or feel as if they are under threat, the chance we retract to unpredictable creatures increases. This does not go hand in hand with democracy and generally supports a modern conclusion that “economic uncertainty may influence the leaders we choose”. That with our historical evolution and ‘new’ place in society is not daring to suggest that today’s economic factors guarantee our basic needs ergo our survival. I would extend this conclusion by saying that economic factors therefore directly determine our political, social and economic environment. If we know that our basic needs are largely the bedrock of realizing stability, we are handling this modern crisis in democracy in all the wrong ways. That is if we wish to save it. The article “Why We Prefer Dominant Leaders in Uncertain Times” drew from evolutionary and social psychology conclusions to understand whether in times of uncertainty attracted characters with more Prestige or Dominance. The research concluded that it’s the latter, which in the context of modern democracy is extremely important. Max Webers essay of Economy and Society in 1925 suggests that leadership is attained through a realization of ordinary men recognizing something in the candidates personality holding ‘exceptional powers and qualities … A spark that enables him to see what other men do not, to understand what the mass of his fellow men fail to comprehend”. Though there is some truth to this when we consider the psychology of elections, it builds a stronger case for the importance of civil lobbying that will nip apathy, tackle misinformation and use our democracies to their fullest extent. To ensure that, not only do citizens have to evolve but our systems with them. They need to inspire citizen contribution, debate and opportunity. I have had many conversations that highlight various problems with democracy over all: It fails to be very representative. It is slow at responding to new challenges. Parties sacrifice their ideological roots in trying to be “catch all”. ‘The Establishment’ doesn’t relate to the average person. Business interests are on par if not greater with constituent interests. Etc.

Though the remedies lay between structural and ideological. The most obvious is creating a system that allows for stability but promotes representation and accountability. As past articles of mine have suggested, we are increasingly finding ourselves in crises within our modern democracy. If we were to take the words of Jean Claude Juncker seriously when he boldly stated the wind was back in Europe’s sails, we get a hybrid reality of the problem. Though perhaps there is reason to be optimistic with recent positive economic data, the structural issues remain and its remedies largely against what European citizens want. The State of the Union speech boldly claimed that 2017 saw the halt of populism and an endorsement of the European project. Guy Verhofstadt made clear the answer was deeper integration. Martin Schultz, leader of the SPD in Germany has recently called for the United States of Europe and the President of France Emmanuel Macron has called for more federalization of Europe. That’s all fine but the statements have all something in common. Ambitious, massive but all with no mandate with popular sovereignty. This is largely happening across political spectrums across the western world. We know that national developments across Europe have painted a rather different picture than those outlined in the European Union State of the Union 2017. If the timeframe of a forecast is one election cycle then recent election results have served as an endorsement for the European project. If you however compare electoral successes of Eurosceptics both of the left and right during the last decade and forecast based on current trends, there appears an alternative reality, one that highlights the distrust of the political establishment, lack of confidence in the economic system and increasing social volatility. This not only threatens the original aims of the European project but more worrisome the stability of the nation state that serves as its core. Today a lack of security surrounding our basic needs is thrusting political and economic uncertainty giving rise to radical parties within the electoral system. The moral of the story is that uncertainty requires more authoritarian power providing a perception of control and the restoration of faith and ‘calm’. My problem with this reality is that citizens have at this point given up. Accepted that circumstances are out of their control despite a system designed for that very purpose. That their, or the nations fate, is dependent on the role of an authoritarian figure with our democratic integrity at their hands.

ECONOM ICS

Citizen lobbyists must become our new means of collective confidence. Democracy is after all about converting governance into a collective system. Our economic lives, the impersonal that is social media and the clickbait journalism that has drip-fed individuals already over burdened with daily life. It has thus carved and led much of our mainstream discussions, polluted discourse and divided civic society creating a political environment in which politicians and the press dictate the narrative. No longer should it be allowed that the ‘establishment’ manipulate but that it be receptive of the people’s immediate desires. Though this article seeks to address some ways in which we could strengthen civic society to mature its response to uncertainty and subdue natural instinct to crisis, it will be further discussed in the second part of this article that will be published later in the year. It is also clear to state that the article isn’t suggesting we ignore our natural instincts only that we let experience subdue it in times of uncertainty where it is most susceptible to rash decisions. As stated in previous articles, the issues facing our democracy are institutional, generational and complacency. With economic outlooks looking bleak and social issues threatening stability, civic society is turning to career politicians whom for all intent and purposes have to deal with an increasingly aggressive divided electorates or/and external influence. Therefore it is important we provide the tools to the new generations to come and handle the problems together, not dump them on the establishment. Education has been an area of much discussion though its influence on the democratic process is never fully appreciated. Thus, creating a mature civic society means investing in a primary, secondary and higher education curriculum that allows students to flourish in their chosen subjects but retain a seasoned understanding of basic politics, civic responsibilities and macroeconomics. As political stability is often tied to respect of political culture, it’s important to understand the historical context of a nations national and regional issues to make informed decisions rather than purely idealistic ones. I put a lot of emphasis on political culture not because I enjoy being a cracked record, but because people will most likely engage with what is familiar than what is foreign to them. A recurring theme throughout human history. To empower the individual in a democratic society is to give them the same means to succeed in their environment as we would a place of work. Democracy is more than an election but developing and maintaining that relationship between local government, regional government and national government. Empowering the citizen with outlets to get involved as well as the tools to do so is to reduce the risk individuals feel disconnected and out of control of their own destiny. Like with everything, it’s prudent to ensure that the core of a system is at its strongest, which is what a proper education can ensure. What is democracy, how does it work and what can I do? Strengthen local civil society and the ripple effect will take care of the rest. Consequently this means that some countries would have to redesign the means in which administration is handled. I have always advocated regional government not necessarily from a distrust in central government but for the efficiency localism can deliver and

engage with the average citizen. Creating a sense of identity and community can also mature citizens civically by institutionalizing and mainstreaming petitions, regional referendums and more meaningful elections. People are fearful that democratic exhaustion might result but it is better to achieve a lower over all vibrant civic engagement than a high electoral turnout every election. With local accountability derived from popular sovereignty, regional issues that persist or fail to be taken care of allows national government to assume a more authorative role based on accountability. In aims of promoting more control, what better way to give citizens a sense of predictability than have manifestos that reflect the core objectives of parties seeking power. A clear manifesto with institutionalized means of holding regional government to account on its (or failed) implementation will allow for a systematic and engaging process than one that leads to protests and prolonged division. Accountability is not the only benefit to localism. Regional government is able to act more responsively to issues as they develop. 2016/2017 has been a period in which national results and shock referendums have failed to reflect regional desires. Tackling this perception by creating more reflective societies is the only way that democracy can remain stable and avoid a crisis that hands national powers to groups looking to regress democratic progress. Finally, the greatest lesson in stamping out radical characters is using the prestige within our economies, political spheres, universities and private sector to be bold and ambitious. The chronic ills we are facing en mass where manufacturing is dwindling, austerity is holding back investment and unease at fast pace societal changes represent an underlying problem between the ‘career’ politician the post war created and the people. This underlying problem is giving popularity to candidates claiming to be part of the average Joe. The problem is that with inefficient systems of civic engagement there exists a divide between ‘the establishment’ and the people. Whether we are discussing local infrastructure, education, policing, environmental policy, energy, - the only way there will be sustainable governance is where the mandate is secured from local popular sovereignty. This sacred principle was even realized by Napoleon Bonaparte who ordered the creation of petitions and plebiscites in France and his conquered regions. Referendums were used to secure mandates for major political developments and petitions for foreign populations to air their disagreements with a French ruler to be installed. Though these practises were heavily rigged and riddled with corruption it is telling the lengths the state went to make sure it had a semblance of actual popular support in carving a sense of accountability. The official roles of provincial administrators also included the regular tracking of popular opinion. Low approval or disapproval numbers would be met with reprimand to provincial administrators failing to get citizens to the polls or investigations to find out the source of the disapproval. Though Napoleonic France was far from the civil society I’d imagine living in, it shows the importance enlightened rulers like Napoleon placed on accountability. Though its pretext was a decade

ECONOM ICS

of volatility that was the French Revolutionary period, we would do well to remember how discontent can materialize. Especially with fast evolving methods of information mobilization. No problem is too big for a solution. Especially an intelligent one. It is rather unfortunate that though today great minds are coming together in both the public and private sector to try and solve these problems, we seem to be lacking the civic society to support it. Essential in a democratic society is stability. Recognizing the elements that achieve sustainability and creating efficient means to tackle them civic governance and citizen lobbying can replace the need to rely on representatives to funnel political agendas. The beauty of democracy is that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a mirror to its actors. Though there is undeniable good, there is equivocally much more to be done. Photo Credits: Aziz Acharki â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Unsplash.

ESSAY

The House

Borghese

By Alessandro Borghese

The winter of 1605 had been a particularly bitter one. Indeed, the unforgiving cold had taken away Alessandro de’ Medici, the son of one of Italy’s greatest renaissance dynasties, just 27 days after his election as Pope Leo XI. The task of announcing the new Pope was, as per tradition, accorded to the Cardinal Protodeacon Francesco Sforza, who also descended from a powerful family who had ruled the Duchy of Milan. Yet on 16 May 1605, the keys of St Peter’s passed to a man of relatively humble origins: Cardinal Camillo Borghese. The new Pontiff was the son of a lawyer from Siena. His ancestors had been part of the ruling elite of that small Tuscan republic that no longer existed. As a member of the lower nobility he had had to work his way up the Church’s ranks, yet nevertheless managed to become one of the most esteemed prelates of his time. He had the skills of a man who is both a legal scholar and a theologian, both of which were needed to head the much-feared Roman Inquisition. He was admired throughout the courts of Europe as a man of unwavering, at times rigid faith but also as a capable diplomat. For these reasons he was the only man on whom the votes of a conclave that lasted 21 long days could finally converge on. Although Borghese did not have the grandiose background of his predecessor, or indeed of many of the other cardinals, his election was his family’s first step towards that status. In fact, a few years after, the King of Spain made the Pope’s brother Prince of Sulmona, a title that is still retained by the Borghese heirs. 54

Camillo Borghese reigned for 16 years as Pope Paul V, an unusually long period by 17th-Century standards. His papacy brought about a period of remarkable spiritual zeal, and is seen as an incredibly important period of time for the Church, Rome, and the world in general. From the point of view of architecture, Italy waved good-bye to the elegant simplicity of the renaissance to welcome the elaborate grandeur of the baroque period. Paul V himself commissioned one of the first masterpieces of this nascent style: the façade of St Peter’s Basilica, on which his engraved name still dominates. Yet as the grand marble face of Christianity’s most important church was being built, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the son of his beloved sister Ortensia Caffarelli, had his interest kindled by another artistic feat. Cardinal Scipione had risen within the church thanks to his uncle’s election. The man was not a gifted cleric, yet few can deny he had an eye for art that few people could ever match. While visiting the workshop of the sculptor Pietro Bernini, who was working on the family’s new chapel, Cardinal Scipione noticed that the master’s 9-year-old son had an incredible talent at working marble. Indeed, the boy was Gian Lorenzo Bernini, one of the greatest sculptors to have ever lived. Under the Borghese patronage, the young Bernini developed his artistic talent and produced some of the most remarkable masterpieces, among which are Apollo and 55

Daphne and the Rape of Proserpina. Yet Cardinal Scipione’s keen eye did not stop at Bernini; he was also the patron of Caravaggio, amongst other great artists of the time. He also sought to enrich his family, and used his status and cunning to buy up a large estate just outside Rome. Today, that estate is Villa Borghese, Rome’s main public gardens, which houses the Galleria Borghese, in which one can admire Cardinal Scipione’s magnificent art collection. Yet one of the most stunning artworks one can find in the Galleria Borghese was made almost two centuries later. When one starts wandering the museum’s chambers, he is sure to encounter one of Antonio Canova’s masterpieces, a white-marble sculpture representing a semi-naked woman, lying sumptuously on a divan. She is Princess Pauline Borghese, the wife of another Camillo Borghese, the great-great-grand-nephew of Paul V. Prince Camillo had married a woman like few others, a true revolutionary and the sister of the most powerful men of the time: Napoleon. The marriage brought the Borghese considerable influence; Prince Camillo was made Governor of Piedmont when Napoleon conquered Italy. In his time in Turin, he was the godfather of a local nobleman who was named after him: Camillo Benso. The future Count of Cavour would be one of the key figures in the unification of Italy and the country’s first Prime Minister. Yet the marriage to Pauline Bonaparte also came at a cost. Camillo sold much of the family’s

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artwork to his brother-in-law for a very inconspicuous price. For that reason, a good part of the collection is housed in the Borghese wing of the Louvre, in Paris. The rise of the House of Borghese commenced with the death of a Medici pope. In the 1800s, Prince Marcantonio Borghese purchased one of the Mediciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twelve hunting estates in Tuscany, a Medicean Villa in the small hilltop village of Montevettolini. The high towers that now constitute the villa were the subject of one the first artistic experiments of Leonardo da Vinci. Indeed, the great renaissance polymath was born in the town of Vinci, which faces Montevettolini across a small valley. The estate was, in the 19th and early-20th centuries, an example of efficiency and agricultural productivity. Up to our days, the Villa has hosted some very well-known celebrities, which recently included actors Michael Douglas and his wife Catherine Zeta-Jones, and Sylvester Stallone. In fact, the area around Montevettolini presents many great opportunities, being close to touristic centres such as Florence and Pisa as well as the world-famous thermal baths of Montecatini and the seaside resort of Forte dei Marmi. The heirs to the estate, the Princes of Leonforte, occasionally rent the estate, which is an ideal luxury location for summer holidays where one can enjoy an interesting and relaxing vacation in a unique setting, just a few miles away from the familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ancestral birthplace. (more details on www.princeborghese.com). 56

ESSAY

M adame

Barry

By Caroline Von Krockow

Mistresses were prevalent in all European courts, but only in France did they become official maîtresse-en-titre, which meant that they were generally well enough born and became part of the court. Louis XIV had several mistresses among them Catherine Bellier, Louise de la Vallière, Anne-Lucie de la Mothe-Houdancourt, the famous Françoise Athénaïs de Rochechouart de Mortemart known as “Madame de Montespan”(she had seven children by Louis XV), Olympe Mancini, Mademoiselle de Marivault, Marie Mancini and the famous Madame de Maintenon. After the queen Marie Thérèse’s death Madame de Maintenon even married the king in 1684. Louis XV also had many mistresses like Catherine Éléonore, Françoise de Chalus, Marie Anne de Mailly, Irène du Buisson de Longpré, Marie Anne de Coislin and Madame de Pompadour, who “reigned” for more than twenty years, to name but a few. Madame du Barry only stayed at the court for 5 years, she was Louis XV’s last mistress and her story interests us today. When Marie Antoinette arrived at the French court she was horrified to discover about the acknowledgement of Jeanne du Barry. Marie Antoinette’s mother, Maria Theresa,

prevailed upon her young daughter to be kind to Madame du Barry and to keep in mind that things in France were done differently than in Austria. Nevertheless Marie Antoinette refused to speak to her, until one day she gave in and remarked to du Barry, “There are a lot of people today in Versailles.” This eased some of the tension, but Marie Antoinette’s antipathy towards the courtesan remained. When Louis XV got sick with small pox and died shortly after Marie Antoinette succeeded in persuading Louis XVI to ban Madame du Barry from court and she was exiled to the Abbey du Pont-aux-Dames near Meaux-en-Brie. Years later Madame du Barry retired to her country estate near Sceaux. She tried to hide her jewellery in England and made frequent trips to London. The revolutionaries observed her and her extravagances caught up with her. Madame du Barry was also one of the victims of the reign of terror. It is said that she became hysterical on her way to the execution begging the executioner not to hurt her. Her last words were, “One moment more, executioner, one little moment” but were not granted. She was beheaded on the Place de la Revolution, now Place de

la Concorde on 8 December 1793. Her beautiful jewellery was later sold at Christie’s auctions. The diamond necklace, which was commissioned by Louis XV in 1772 for Madame du Barry is perhaps her most famous piece due to the diamond necklace affair. It was a special gift with an estimated value of around 15 million dollars in today’s money. Louis XV requested that Parisian jewellers Boehmer and Bassenge create a diamond necklace that would surpass all others in grandeur. The chef-d’oevre was not finished and unpaid for by his death. The jewellers tried to sell it to Marie Antoinette several times, but she refused it. Nevertheless the costs of it would later be unjustly attributed to her, increasing the accusations against her, which had cost her her head years before Madame du Barry on 16 October 1793 on the Place de la Revolution.

ESSAY

But how did it all start? Madame du Barry (1743 – 1793) was born the illegitimate daughter of a dressmaker. She was a beauty and her face her capital. As reflected in art of the time, Jeanne was a remarkably attractive blonde woman with thick golden ringlets and almond-shaped blue eyes.

She started her “courtesan career” at 15 when she slept with her employer and as Jeanne Vauberier entertained in Madame Quisnoy’s brothel. Her beauty came to the attention of Jean-Baptiste du Barry, a high-class pimp who owned a casino. Du Barry made her his mistress and named her Mademoiselle Lange. Du Barry helped establish Jeanne’s career as a courtesan and this enabled her to have a good part of the French aristocracy as her clients. As Mademoiselle Lange, Jeanne became a sensation and was showered with lavish gifts, jewellery and furs much to the envy of the wives. She had many lovers from the king’s ministers to his courtiers. Maréchal de Richelieu, for instance became a frequent lover. Jean du Barry therefore saw her as a means of influence over Louis XV. She could however not become a maitresseen-titre if she did not have a title. Until then the mistresses came from a “better” background than Jeanne. This should not be an obstacle though and was solved by her marriage on 1 September 1768 to du Barry’s brother, Comte Guillaume du Barry. The marriage ceremony included a false birth certificate created by Jean du Barry himself, making Jeanne younger by three years and of fictional noble descent. The ageing king Louis XV sig

nalled immediate interest in her by sending her bouquets of roses tied with strings of diamonds. Madame du Barry was soon afterwards installed above the King’s quarters. She quickly got accustomed to luxury, having also been given a young Bengali boy by Louis XV, Zamor, whom she dressed in elegant clothing to show him off. Jeanne was a tremendous triumph and now wore extravagant gowns and jewellery covering her bosom, neck, ears, wrists and fingers. While Jeanne managed to rid herself of her rivals, the faction around duc de Choiseul, she was unlike her predecessor, Madame de Pompidour not interested in politics. While Jeanne was known for her good nature and support of artists, she grew increasingly unpopular

because of the kings’ financial extravagance towards her. Since Madame du Barry’s “reign” at court only lasted five years it was not long enough to leave a strong impression in the artistic landscape. However, her collection shows her great taste including a portrait of Charles I by Van Dyck, paintings by Fragonard, de Vernet, de Vien and de Greuze. She also had an interesting library and befriended Voltaire. But her greatest influence was perhaps in fashion and surpassed even Madame de Pompadour’s extravagance. She made stripes à la mode, combined lace, silk and a multitude of fine materials. Madame du Barry hired the best designers like Carlier, the hat maker Chardon and Rose Bertin, who would also become the minister of fashion for Marie Antoinette. Her style was ephemeral and splendid.

&ART

A rt Basel Miami By Andreea Belba

From

the

7th to the 10th Miami revealed

itan city of

December, 2017,

the cosmopol-

again a mixture of exacerbated ro-

Art Basel Miami Beach, an ineffable canvas for vernissages, galas, VIP parties, dinners, etc. This emblematic art fair with over 500,000 square feet of exhibition space embraced the art world with highend galleries from North America, Latin America, Europe, Asia, and Africa, eccentric exhibitions, and artistic talents attracting more than 70,000 visitors. With three annually staged shows in Switzerland, Florida, and Hong Kong, the Art Fair took place at the Miami Beach Convention Centre showcasing impressive paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, photos, video, digital art, and films of established and emerging creators and enabled substantial acquisitions by museums, collectors and curators. manticism and extravagant culture at the glamorous

Art Basel Miami’s unique configuration into ten sectors: Galleries, Nova, Positions, Edition, Kabinett, Survey, Public, Film, Magazines, and Conversations triggered an insightful dialogue between galleries, curators, collectors, and artists during the Art Week. The 2017 edition included 268 leading galleries from 32 countries, a broad collection of artworks, separate curatorial spaces and a completely brand-new floor plan with larger booths and aisles. Nine exhibitors came from North and South America (Anat Ebgi from Los Angeles; Chapter NY, David Lewis Gallery and Tyler Rollins Fine Art from New York; Inman Gallery from Houston; Patron from Chicago; Galeria Jaqueline Martins and Ricardo Camargo Galeria from São Paulo; and Isla Flotante from Buenos Aires) and 11 from Europe and Asia as first-time participants (A arte Invernizzi from Milan; Applicat-Prazan and Ceysson & Bénétière from Paris; Dépendance from Brussels; Hales Gallery, Offer Waterman and Richard Saltoun Gallery from London; Antenna Space from Shanghai; and Takuro Someya Contemporary Art and Taro Nasu from Tokyo). One prodigious artist was Dora Longo Bahia whose paintings exhibited at Vermelho, São Paulo investigated two human-made catastrophes after the nuclear disasters from Fukushima and Chernobyl. Galleries, the epicentre of the show with almost 200 art galleries from North and Latin America, Europe, Africa and Asia featured paintings, drawings, sculptures, installations, prints, photography, film, video, and digital art. Galleries like 47 Canal, Bureau, Kalfayan Galleries, Peres Projects, Galeria Plan B, Sfeir-Semler Gallery,

Jessica Silverman Gallery and Tokyo were former participants in Nova, Positions or Survey whereas Gallery Applicat-Prazan was a newcomer and Konrad Fischer Galerie and Fergus McCaffrey returned to this sector. Edition presented eleven global leaders in prints and editioned works: Alan Cristea Gallery, Crown Point Press, Sabine Knust, Carolina Nitsch, Pace Prints, Paragon, STPI, Two Palms and ULAE. Leading publishers of editioned works, prints, and multiples exhibited the results of their collaboration with renowned artists providing the opportunity to see rare publications. Positions featuring fourteen solo booths enabled the attendees to spot new talents via a platform to highlight major projects by a single artist. Xu Qu’s new series of ceramic pot sculptures and typographic prints at Antenna Space revealed how religious activities affected the Chinese society while Adam Gordon’s performance installation rendered a mysterious woman wandering in the proximity of the booth. Jamal Cyrus analyzed the cultural politics of Black American music and the civil rights movement of the 1960s and 1970s at Inman Gallery while Koichi Enomoto explored the conflicts and relationships between humanity and technology using mythological motifs like good and evil, truth and falseness. Nova exhibiting fresh, cutting edge works in twenty-nine galleries provided a three-artist platform for fresh, vibrant artwork designed in the last three years. Dépendance with drawings, sculptures, paintings and film by Ed Atkins Gillian Carnegie and Peter

Wächtler, David Lewis Gallery, Tyler Rollins Fine Art Manuel Ocampo were among the exhibitors. To investigate America’s colonial history in his homeland, Ocampo resorted to bizarre works that borrowed images from the Philippine–American War. The political and social presentations describing concepts of communities and their transformational power (Prometeogallery di Ida Pisani featuring Santiago Sierra, Regina José Galindo and Hiwa K) stirred interest in issues like race, sexuality and gender in today’s society (David Castillo Gallery). Dodd’s large-scale biomorphic painting and Kasper’s “chandeliers” enchanted art lovers with their originality. Survey displayed artwork for historical projects from solo shows to juxtapositions and thematic exhibitions created before 2000 by artists who embodied various generations, cultures and artistic perspectives: Sérvulo Esmeraldo at Galeria Raquel Arnaud; Judith Bernstein at The Box; Wesley Duke Lee at Ricardo Camargo Galeria; Claude Viallat and Noël Dolla at Ceysson & Bénétière; David Driskell at DC Moore Gallery; Carlos Leppe at Espaivisor; Alexis Smith at Honor Fraser; Frank Bowling at Hales Gallery; Dadamaino; Letícia Parente at Galeria Jaqueline Martins, etc. Peter Saul distinguished by his surrealistic political caricatures of Trump at New York’s Mary Boone Gallery (President Trump Becomes a Wonder Woman, Unifies the Country and Fights Rocket Man, 2017). His work is humorous when portraying Trump as Wonder Woman fighting with Kim Jong-un in a hysterical battle involving nuclear warheads. Nate Lowman at New York’s Maccarone individualized with his three large-scale paintings based on radar images of 2017 major hurricanes: Harvey, Irma, and Maria revealing sarcastically the force of tropical phenomena. São Paulo’s Galeria Jaqueline Martins consecrated its booth to Letícia Parente a Brazilian artist who dedicated her experimental body of work to domestic space considering the human body “as something produced by bio political forces.” Conversations brought together artists, collectors, art historians, curators, museum directors and critics in nineteen talks that featured prominent names like Stefania Bortolami, José Carlos Diaz, Jordan Casteel, Charles Gaines, Juan A. Gaitán, Alberto Ibargüen, Pamela Joyner, Daniel Knorr, and Anne Pasternak among many others. The program started with the Premiere Artist Talk featuring Charles Gaines who discussed his work with Brian Stevenson, Executive Director of the Equal Justice Initiative, and Naima Keith, Deputy Director, Exhibitions and Programs, California African American Museum. This sector scheduled by Mari Spirito, the Founding Director of Protocinema, moderated a series of panels, lectures, and artist talks with various critics, curators, gallerists, artists, collectors and other cultural speakers. It focused on the global contemporary art scene providing a platform for interactive dialogues between representatives of international art world who shared their viewpoints about art production, collection and showcase. Kabinett enabled participating galleries to exhibit within a separately delineated area in their booths the work of a single artist or a group of their choice. This year, the sector included 24 projects by Etel Adnan, Anni Albers, Taku Aramasa, Alice Attie, Ashley Bickerton, Andrea Bowers, Colette Brunschwig, Flavio Garciandía, Hans Hofmann, etc. The Public sector in partnership with the Bass Museum of Art and patronized by MGM Resorts Art & Culture took place at Collins Park featuring large-scale sculptures and installations by preeminent and emerging worldwide artists. The Film sector in association with David Gryn, Director of Data Editions and London’s Artprojx showcased dynamic film productions displayed on a 7,000-square-foot projection wall belonging to artists Jibade-Khalil Huffman, Jen DeNike and Tin Ojeda, and a series of short films from the Chicago Film Archives collection. In his work “If She Hollers” Jen DeNike explored Hollywood archetypes and the cult of masculinity discussing gender, race and sexuality. Additionally, David Gryn made a film selection about global language of dance and its connection with movement and music whereas Maxa Zoller planned a daunting artwork program to cultivate the dialog about the today’s medium of film. Magazines were exhibited in single or collective magazine booths by international Art publications promoting presentations, lectures or art discussions. Gradually germinating into a second vibrant venue with a rich history, Miami’s savour morphed into a multifaceted experience for art connoisseurs from a quiet stroll on the beach in the roar of the waves, a dance under the moonlight, or a romantic date in an exquisite restaurant, to a moment of intense reverie in the privacy of a fabulous art fair… 64

CINEMA

Black is solidarity but Hollywood is still a colorful place By Monella Kaplan

THE GOLDEN GLOBES 2018

On the 7th of January 2018 millions of people from around the world watched the 75th annual Golden Globes, hosted by the Hollywood Foreign Press Association, an organization currently made up of about 90 foreign journalists. I was one of the viewers, comfortably nestled with my industry friends in front of a big screen at the Soho House West Hollywood. 66

We were all wearing black. Not because we had attended a funeral, but as part of a coordinated campaign called ‘TIME’S UP’ initiated by many notable women in Hollywood, including Halle Berry, Reese Witherspoon, Eva Longoria, and more, to raise money for legal costs and to demonstrate solidarity with the victims of sexual harassment in the entertainment industry and beyond. The rumor was that all stars will be participating in this campaign and wear black and we were eagerly awaiting the red carpet to see who would stand out and what the reactions would be. A few did, fueling an incendiary controversy carried out on social media: Latin actresses Blanca Blanco, wearing red, Hollywood Foreign Press Association President Meher Tatna also in red and German actress and model Barbara Meier in a spectacular floral gown in pastel colors. The rest conformed. The display of blackness, while impressive in its expression of solidarity, also reminded me of the much praised, Golden Globe award-winning show “A Handmaid’s Tale”, about a totalitarian society in what used to be part of the United States. I found myself wondering afterwards about the bigger implications of conformism. Having lived part of my childhood in communist Romania where I was required to wear a uniform growing up, I dreamt about the glamour of the west and freedom of expression. My parents instilled in me an unquenchable thirst for individuality and freedom. Yet here I was myself following a trend, a movement, or a shtick? I was torn between freedom of expression and expression for freedom. 2017 was a record setting hurricane season. It was led in August by hurricane Harvey, who left devastation in its wake and was the costliest tropical cyclone on record. That same year, only a few months later, another hurricane with the same namesake swept through the entertainment industry. It also left devastation in its wake and created havoc. Other, equally high-profile named tempests followed, unraveling a movement geared towards abolishing sexual harassment and assault, and establishing gender equal salaries.

Indeed a fresh wind is now sweeping through Hollywood, yet it must have started as a breeze a while back. An unprecedented amount of female driven movies and TV shows were produced and presented at the awards shows this season, whether studio or independently financed. DC Comic’s heroine “Wonder Woman” was revived by Gal Gadot and directed by Patty Jenkins; “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri” starring Frances McDormand, about a woman seeking justice and to find the man who raped and murdered her daughter, “I, Tonya”, the unconventional biopic about Tonya Harding, produced by and starring Margot Robbie and Golden Globe winner Allison Janney, “Molly’s Game” with Jessica Chastain about a woman reinventing herself in the world of Hollywood celebrity gambling was produced amongst others by former studio head Amy Pascal; The later also produced “The Post” starring Meryl Streep as the first female publisher of a major American newspaper, Katharine Graham, and her fight to expose a massive cover-up of government secrets. In “The Shape of Water” Sally Hawkins plays a mute cleaning lady who falls in love with a captured sea monster and the comingof-age story “Lady Bird” was the brainchild of writer-director Greta Gerwig, produced by Evelyn O’Neil and starring Golden Globe winner Saoirse Ronan. Equally female driven were the winning TV shows: “Big Little Lies” which garnered Nicole Kidman a Golden Globe, “A Handmaid’s Tale” with a win for Elizabeth Moss and “The Marvelous Mrs. Meisel”. The fact that no woman candidate was amongst the director’s nominees did not go unnoticed, also not by its presenter Natalie Portman interjecting while reading “And here are the all-male nominees.” At the same time, for the first time since the inception of the Cecil B. deMille at the Golden Globes award in 1952, an African American female entertainer was recognized for “outstanding contributions to the world of entertainment”, Oprah Winfrey. The highly publicized movement translated into many A-listers deliberately choosing labels helmed by female designers for their black outfits, including Elis-

abeth Moss and Natalie Portman in Dior (with Maria Grazia Chiuri as its first female artistic director since 2016), Claire Foy in a Stella McCartney suit, Samira Wiley in Romona Keveza Collection, and Sam Rockwell, Diane Kruger and Gary Oldman in Prada. Marchesa, the label founded by Georgina Chapman, soonto-be-ex-wife of Harvey Weinstein, was clearly absent from the red carpet. Hollywood has a tradition of using awards shows as platforms for political statements and this Golden Globes will most probably be remembered as one of the most political expressions yet. Starting with the black clad celebrities on the red carpet to express solidarity with sexual assault victims, to a feminist movement geared towards equal pay, to speculations of a potential presidential candidate for the next elections and a range of political remarks in between. This tradition is deeply rooted within the choices of plots, themes and characters of the movies Hollywood selects. The protagonists are purveyors of diversity, fighters against prejudice, injustice, inequality, and being different is not something one should be ashamed of, but proud of. Freedom of expression is the fabric Hollywood webs in its dream factory. So while the causes are noble that led to this somber display of solidarity that turned into political manifestations, Hollywood bears a responsibility to stand by it’s own credo: diversity and freedom. Shaming someone for wearing a different color dress seems not far away from shaming for other differences, such as the color of skin or sexual orientation or belonging to another gender. “There’s a new era underway,” host Seth Meyers joked, “and I can tell because it’s been years since a white man was this nervous in Hollywood.” Hurricanes leave devastation behind, be it in the meteorological or entertainment world. Yet they also leave the air clean and give an opportunity to restore. To rebuild a new society, create a clean slate and pave the way for a new beginning, where the rules of engagement are better defined and dictated by merit. The issues are bigger than the color of the gown. Yes, TIME’S UP.

PONER Nikol and Jakub. Two siblings who have influenced fashion in the Czech Republic. They are designers working with clients who appreciate luxury and uniqueness. The PONER brand was established in 2015, and the beginnings were tough. They had nothing. And then, within an unbelievably short time, their name became a phenomenon; to wear one of their dresses at an event is now an honor. They appear at the most prestigious social events, and even at official state events. One of their most recent orders was an inauguration dress for the first lady and her daughter. They use only the most exclusive fabrics; hand embroidered laces are complemented by stones made of Bohemian crystal. Their models are the synonym of luxury. Special occasion dresses for women are the most dominant part of their work, and thanks to the meticulous and demanding handwork they are a hallmark of exceptionality. The rest of their work includes, among others, various accessories such as brooches, underwear, suspenders or their iconic shoes called “PONERKY”. They have recently moved their atelier right into the very heart of Prague, you will newly find them at Maiselova 21, Prague 1 – right at the beginning of the famous fashion street Pařížská. When you come to Prague, do not forget to visit their atelier located in this century-old, historical, and ever-luxurious building. Just knock on the door ... In fact, Nikol and Jakub are known in the Czech Republic for meeting their clients in their atelier. They firmly believe that the personal approach is exactly what each designer should invest in their customers.

PONER

To see their work, follow them on instagram, their name is @poner_official, or have a look at their website w w w.p o n ero f f icial . co m .

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CINEMA

The Oscars By Maite Plimmer

“Whatever form your dreams may take, it’s through passion and perseverance that the impossible is possible” Glen Keane. Animated Short - Dear Basketball Best Picture, Best Director, Best Original Music Score, Best Production Design - The Shape of Water. Thank you Guillermo del Toro for this delightful and magical movie. At first I found it a bit repulsive, I mean a lonely woman that couldn’t speak falls in love with a monster? However the movie grew on me and I tried to avoid the obvious in order to find the message. Then I remembered that very often, the purest diamonds are found in the hardest places to get to. Love isn’t always easy and perfect. Magic starts outside of one’s comfort zone and unconditional love often requires extraordinary powers, as well as a pinch of madness and lots of courage. A very refreshing take on romance, in a world that forces you to fit in. The soundtrack is equally enchanting. Best Actor- Gary Oldman for The Darkest Hour. From the moment I saw the trailer of this movie, I knew that Gary was the best Churchill impersonator I had ever laid my eyes on. Nicholas Soames, Winston’s grandson, in fact said “ Gary Oldman nailed it. His portrayal of my grandfather is very vivid. One of the very best”. The movie also took home the Oscar for The Best Makeup. Gary stated he would only play Churchill if Kazuhiro Tsuji was in charge of the transformation. Best Costume Design- Mark Bridges for The Phantom Thread. I am not sure I agree with this one. The movie is a story about obsession and manipulation . Although not based on any Couturier in particular, I could recognize a few eccentricities of many. The costumes were ethereal and elegant but not overwhelmingly elaborate. I personally thought the costume designs of “ Murder on the Orient Express” deserved the statuette.

Best Film Editing, Best Sound Mixing, Best Sound Editing for DUNKIRK. This is a master piece really. Until I watched “The Shape of Water” I thought this would take the Best Picture award. Then I realised that in the times like today, we need to hope, dream and believe. We also need to remember without glorifying, the past, so we do not repeat it. Best Documentary Feature- ICARUS Film maker Bryan Fogel, started the project as a personal experiment on the effects of doping in sports, and it turned into a thriller. A must see. Doping, Olympics, Russians, Americans, Unexplained deaths. It’s all there. Best Actress and Best Supporting Actor- Frances McDormand and Sam Rockwell for Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri. This movie really touches on a variety of issues that are very current. The three main characters remind me of an extreme divided US of A. It is a satire with some moments of humour and decency. The reality of the truth often hurts , even with the lack of closure. Real and RAW. Best Original Song- Remember Me and Best Animated FeatureCoco, PIXAR’s come back ? A very touching movie. Reminding us that there is an after life, using the Mexican tradition of “Dia de los Muertos” in which we are supposed to remember the deceased otherwise they die a second death, alone and forgotten. It holds a great message. Very clear about family values, Respect the elderly, take good care of your loved ones, even after they die. A great family treat .In this day and age of superfluous morals, I liked the obvious simplicity. A kids movie in which they do not try to manipulate them. I must congratulate some designers in going back to simple forms without baroque connotations. Less is more. The best dressed in my humble opinion were Laura Dern in Calvin Klein, Zendaya who looked like a Grecian Goddess in Giambattista Valli. Timothee Chamelet, a very sophisticated and brave young man to wear a white ensemble, in Berluti and what can I say about Armie Hammer in Giorgio Armani? He just effortlessly oozes , if I may say, an old school style from every pore. Last but not least ,Phoebe Waller-Bridge in Vionnet who looked adorable.

EVENT

Glamorous M ay By Eugenia Smerkis

For more than five years I have been living in the magical Principality of Monaco on the beautiful French Riviera, which has become my loving home. Monaco residents are truly blessed with mild sunny weather, picturesque nature and a variety of social events such as glittery balls, elegant gala dinners, top ranked sports competitions, amazing opera and ballet performances, fantastic music concerts and unique art exhibitions. Nevertheless, every year with great anticipation I am waiting for the month of May which, in my view, is the most socially important and the most glamorous month of the year on the French Riviera. For the first time in my life during the 2010 Cannes Film Festival, wearing a dazzling Roberto Cavalli dress, I walked up the iconic red-carpeted steps at the Palais des Festivals. After watching the world premiere of the controversial “Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps”, starring the Hollywood legend Michael Douglas, I was invited to the “Vanity Fair” dinner after-party where I met Oliver Stone, the remarkable Hollywood film director who produced this film and had a thrilling conversation with him about the influence of films on modern society. Since then I know that at the Cannes Film Festival, which is one of the world’s most widely publicized events and certainly the most important film festival in terms of worldwide impact, one can expect the unexpected! This May, the 2018 Cannes Film Festival will open on Tuesday, 8th May with the premiere of Asghar Farhadi’s, one of Iran’s most influential and internationally recognized film makers, psychological thriller “Everybody Knows,” starring Spanish stars Javier Bardem and Penelope Cruz. The President of the 2018 Competition Jury will be Australian actress Cate Blanchett. The closing party and the awards ceremony of the Cannes Film Festival will be on Saturday, 19th May 2018. The world’s leading brands, charity organizations and film production companies will host their glitzy Cannes parties. Last year during the Cannes Film Festival I had a unique opportunity to attend one of the most desirable among celebrities and socialites, “galactic with a touch of diamonds” Chopard’s space-themed party. For this occasion I was wearing a blue shimmering Zuhar Murad dress and of course my favorite Happy Diamonds collection from Chopard. When I was entering the futuristic VIP entrance, which

was replicating the lit-up triangle on the official Chopard Cannes invitation, I had a feeling of entering the gates to the Galactic portal. After the exclusive strictly invitation-only dinner I greatly enjoyed an incredible private disco performance by Rihanna and Bruno Mars. Courtesy of Chopard, that was a truly unforgettable evening!

Among the other art works auctioned off by the famed art curator Simon De Pury at the amfAR Cannes gala included a vibrantly colored, large-scale “Dancing Fairy” sculpture by Monaco resident designer and entrepreneur Vasily Klyukin. It was bought for 300,000 dollars by philanthropist and art collector Len Blavatnik.

To benefit amfAR, the Foundation for AIDS Research, the 25th amfAR Gala Cannes will take place at the fabled Hotel du Cap on Thursday, 17th May 2018.

This year’s Cannes Film Festival will coincide with the 11th Historic Grand Prix in Monte-Carlo from Friday 13th May to Sunday 15th May 2018.

Despite recent scandals, amfAR remains one of the world’s most successful benefit events and the most coveted ticket during the Cannes Film Festival. To date, this spectacular, star-studded event has raised more than 210 million dollars for amfAR’s life-saving research programs and has helped keep the fight against AIDS in the global media spotlight.

Personally I would recommend a weekend break from the ten-day party packed Cannes social marathon with a short escape to nearby Monaco to watch the Historic Grand Prix.

In a spectacular runway show at the 2017 amfAR Cannes gala, the world’s top models showcased a unique collection of gowns - “the Golden Age of Hollywood”, curated by the famous French fashion editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld, which was then auctioned off in its entirety for 3 million dollars.

The event is organised by the prestigious Automobile Club of Monaco on the same circuit as the Formula 1 Grand Prix with the charming pre-war and post-war Grand Prix cars. Two weeks after the Historical Grand Prix, from 26th May 2018 to 29th May 2018, the glamorous 74th Grand Prix of the Formula 1 World Championship is held in Monaco.

The Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix is the hardest circuit of the Formula 1 World Championship, one of the greatest and most challenging racing events on the sports calendar. It is the most prestigious motor race in the world, under exceptional conditions. Monaco changes totally during the days of the Grand Prix. It really and truly becomes a circuit, and living here, we practically experience the race from the inside. Despite plenty of excellent options to watch the exciting Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix race, during the past years I repeatedly chose the fabulous terrace of the flagship Louis XV restaurant of Hotel de Paris. I enjoyed being in the epicenter of the breathtaking Grand Prix race as much as the gourmet 3 Michelin starred lunch courtesy of world-famous chef Alain Ducasse.

The ongoing refurbishment works of the Hotel de Paris will be complete by the beginning of May this year and I very much look forward to experience its renovated luxury settings again. The evening programme during the Monaco Grand Prix is as exciting and intense as the day races. It includes celebritiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; boat parties, unique one of a kind Amber Lounge Formula 1 Racing Drivers, Fashion Shows and Live Auctions, fine dining, and disco parties at Jimmiz, Twiga and Amber Lounge to name just a few. I am wishing all readers of Ccercle Magazine who are lucky enough to be on the French Riviera in May, to have the most extraordinary time. Life is a highway â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the enjoyment you get depends on the lane you choose!

Improve

your

L ook

By Stefano Pera

Man’s concept of beauty has changed throughout the ages and it is likely to continue to do so for the rest of man’s tenure on earth. Nowadays there is an incessant search for youth, an attempt to slow time. The ageing face shows the change of the orbitopalpebral district of the cheeks, of the neck, the facial expression changes. Cosmetic Plastic Surgery of the face can help a lot. The brow lift, the upper and inner blefaroplasty, the meloplasty and the lifting of the neck can improve the overall look of a person. With any procedures relating to the face it’s a surgeon’s goal to restore the features with the least possible amount of scarring and trauma. Thereby improving the attractiveness of the patient’s appearance. Because of a healthier and more youth conscious middle aged and older age group, the plastic surgeon now sees problems related to the ageing of the face with increasing frequency. The changes are particularly reflected in the eyelids, cheeks and neck, and are brought on not by the passage of time alone, but by many other factors, including exposure to the sun, weight gain and loss and hereditary factors. Marked blefaroptosis and blefarocalasis or relaxation and ptosis of the soft tissue of the face including marked rhytides occur frequently. The face lifting and related procedures for the eyelids and neck started about in 1930. Today modern techniques allow for good results, faster recovery and greater satisfaction for the patient. There are many variations in techniques applicable to varying situations that can solve most of the problems incurred by ageing. However, the excellence with which they are performed and the judgment of the surgeon in selecting procedures which accomplish the best results with the least surgical hazards are of vital importance.

Stefano Pera Contacts: Mobile: +39 335 404407 E-mail: perachirplastica@icloud.com

Via Arginvecchio, angolo via Aurelia, Forte dei Marmi/ Focette Italy Phone: +39 0584 267139

TRAVEL

Paris

of the

Orient

By Victoria Kolossov

Beirut, Lebanon

Going to the airport during holiday season is always a challenge, even more so in Russia where everyone receives a week off at the same time to indulge and recharge their inner batteries. Making your way through the hustle and bustle of crowds at the airport you find families greeting each other, couples making their way to exotic locations, or individuals like me - off on an adventure to Lebanon, a country full of mystique and excitement. As I sat in the business lounge at Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow waiting to board the four-hour long flight, I wondered if Beirut would be the dream destination I imagined and heard it to be. The plane ride was a breeze and we soon landed in Beirut. After a polite official stamped the passports, we were on our way downtown to the Luxury Boutique Hotel O Monot where it was time for rest in our presidential suite. Drawing the curtains the following morning, we were greeted with the sight of the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, the largest mosque in Lebanon and the accompanying Maronite Cathedral of St. George.

At night, these picturesque locations are flooded with light and the church bells and call to prayer sound multiple times throughout the whole city. Before heading to dinner, our group, a mix of Institut Le Rosey alumni, entrepreneurs and fashionistas made our way to a local favorite ‘The Bar’ at the Four Seasons. This intimate retreat remained a favorite of ours throughout the trip, perfect for catching up with friends, enjoying the soothing fireplace, and having a couple of glasses of Arak, a national drink, or my personal favorite, a gin and tonic. Feeling the hum of the city, we were excited to meet with friends, stopping off at another Beirut hot-spot ‘Bar Centrale’. The elevator resembled a ski-gondola, similar to those found in St. Moritz or Gstaad and opened up to a dark tunnel like atmosphere, buzzing with people. One thing is for certain, the Lebanese have a knack for letting you feel at ease, greeting you with kisses and hugs, and of course a must at Centrale, a Moscow Mule. After what seemed to be only a few minutes we were on our way again, this time to Em Sherif Café, a necessity for anyone seeking the most stylish ‘it’ location. We let our local friends choose the dishes, and shortly the table was filled to the rim with hummus, tabbouleh, fattouch and a local delicacy, hummingbirds. One of the things that surprised me most about the trip was the local Lebanese wine. Not heard much of in Europe, the light fruity taste of the rose and white wine was delightful, Chateau Ksara was a group favorite. Next stop was the legendary club BO18, where electro meets house under a vibrant tent full of dancing and champagne. 77

The following day was New Year’s Eve where lunch and shopping were on the ‘to-do’ list. We headed to Leila, a quaint restaurant located in the Beirut port, where accompanied by a light breeze we enjoyed lunch over a couple bottles of local wine and hummus. Beirut restaurant staff are overly kind and accommodating, making the dining experience a treat. The girls split from the men, who decided hammam was on the cards, and went to the Beirut Souks for some light shopping. That evening, after caviar and champagne was shared with friends we headed out to a local house party, common for the jetsetters of Beirut. The party, at an extravagant penthouse, was catered by the best local kitchen, with a feast of salmon tataki, steak and mushroom risotto awaiting us. Fireworks and celebrations filled the city, as we met 2018 on the balcony with champagne in one hand and new friends in the other. The after-party followed at ‘Grand Factory’ where our host rented the exclusive private room for his friends. The vast building, as deducted from the name, a disaffected factory, was filled with music, dancing and celebrations that went on till the early morning. What could be better the following day than a Bloody Mary? A must go to place for one of the best and spiciest is the Phoenicia Hotel, a favorite of LA based real estate developer and father to models Gigi and Bella, Mohammed Hadid. We went back there a couple times for this reason, and to walk the beautifully decorated stairs that resembled the Wienerwald in Austria. The spa at the Phoenician is also a great location for massages and easy sports, in a delightful pool accompanied by indoor palm trees.

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For the second half of the trip we changed hotels, deciding to enjoy the sea after having spent time in the city. Our choice was Movenpick, a quaint seaside resort with waves lullabying you to sleep. However, having not been refurbished for some time, my recommendation would be to stay at Le Gray, Four Seasons or the Phoenician. Of course, Lebanon is more than parties and drinks, and we soon found ourselves renting a Sixt car and heading South to visit the city of Tyre (Sour in Arabic). A beautiful seaside village, Tyre holds the largest Roman Hippodrome in the world, a UNESCO heritage site. After exploring history and the village itself we settled for a late lunch at Le Phenicien, with a view of the local port and a loyal dog guarding his masters boat. After returning to Beirut and a short relaxation at the hotel we headed out to dinner at Babel, a famous fish restaurant by the port (locally caught fish with butter is a must-have). The following day, we were invited by Alice and Roger Edde, the famous political family, to Byblos, a city that has been inhabited for more than 7000 years without interruption. Alice kindly showed us the cobbled streets of the old Souk and the famous Byblos fortress. Unfortunately, due to time constraint and rainy weather we were unable to visit the famous Grotto, a must for the next trip. The day trip to Byblos was finalized by an authentic massage at Edde Sands Spa, and we soon returned relaxed and content to Beirut. That night we were invited by the owner of The Luxury Network to Liwan, a Lebanese live music restaurant. The feast of local delicacies and live music put us into the spirit and we found ourselves once again indulging in the nightlife of Beirut. Unfortunately the majority of the trip was accompanied by stormy weather, so the following day we decided to visit a couple of malls in Beirut. I was later informed by my local friends that most of the Lebanese do their shopping abroad, however, a highlight was seeing my sister, Lexie Kolossov’s, worldwide Sunglass Hut commercial on the posters.

Dinner that day was at my personal favorite restaurant, Liza. Although reservations are hard to come by, you will not be disappointed with the exquisite food and fantastic atmosphere (6 birthdays and 1 engagement!). The night was rounded up by visiting Music Hall, a fantastic nightclub that really shows Lebanon in its best light. With live bands and singers on stage, and shaped like a theater, the club performs a mix of modern and Arabic music, a perfect location to dance the night away and learn the trends of Arabic music charts. Although we took our ski clothes with us on the trip, there wasn’t enough snow to ski. This did not stop us from driving to 1850m to visit the InterContinental Hotel located in Mzaar, Faraya. It was a fantastic experience to see the Mount Lebanon Range in contrast with the waves located just an hour away. In the evening it was time to put on our best dress and head to Mayrig, an Armenian restaurant for Russian Christmas dinner. Our last day of the trip was filled with sightseeing as we visited the National Museum of Beirut, the Mosque, and walked around downtown, to be rounded off by one last drink at Four Seasons and dinner at the wonderful restaurant Seray. Then waving back at the city it was time to board the plane back to Moscow. My personal conclusion? Beirut isn’t just ‘Paris of the Orient’, but much, much more. I will definitely be back soon, Inshallah! About the author: Victoria Kolossov was born in Moscow and grew up between Vienna and London. After working for FashionTV, she moved to Moscow to pursue a career as Marketing and Strategic Director of the fastest growing microfinance organization in Russia. She speaks English, Russian, German and French, and has degrees from multiple universities such as Warwick and Wharton.

London Marriott Hotel County Hall Truly luxury accommodation in the heart of the capital

London Marriott Hotel County Hall is the luxury option on the South Bank. From the moment you arrive through the elegant courtyard and impressive iron doors, you are welcomed to a truly five-star experience. Get the most from your stay with the help of our award-winning concierge team, on hand to cater to every need from one-to-one personalised itinerary planning to lavish in-room services. Thanks to our enviable position at the foot of Westminster Bridge, you’ll enjoy an effortlessness that comes from being front and centre of the action. Touch the London Eye from your balcony and toast to the famous London skyline, hear the applause from The Globe, and take in extraordinary views from the hotel’s 460 windows. With over 20 top attractions just a short walk away, including the National Theatre, Tate Modern, and Thames sightseeing river cruises, there is an abundance of options on your doorstep to make the most of your time in the capital. Inside the hotel, swim in the biggest hotel pool in London, enjoy seasonal, best of British dining at Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar and indulge in a bottomless Afternoon Tea with delicious handmade sandwiches and cakes in The Library. For ultimate luxury, stay in one of the hotel’s 12 suites, each of which boasts a spectacular 180-degree view across London. Seven of these feature a private balcony for uninterrupted viewing pleasure.

F o r m o re info rmation, p lease visit

www.marriottcountyhall.com

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Th e

In di a: G o l d e n Tr i a n g l e By Diane Ackermans

« There are some parts of the world that, once visited, get into your heart and won’t go. For me India is such a place. »* Few countries in the world carve such a deep, lasting impression on a traveller as India

does. India overloads the senses with its cacophony of sounds, it’s vibrant colours, smells and tastes.

The Golden Triangle is the most popular tour-

ist route in India, and for very good reason.

Delhi, Jaipur

and

Agra

are three cities that

capture your imagination and take you into the fascinating, decadent and passionate world of the maharajas.

What

they left behind is some

of the world’s best architecture, from the

Hu-

Delhi (Unesco world heritage Amber Fort in Jaipur and of course the Taj Mahal in Agra. mayun tomb in site) to the

Here’s how my family and I discovered the highGolden Triangle:

lights of the

The

New Delhi:

province of

Rajasthan

in the north of

India

conjures

Maharajas and Moghuls, of Majestic forts and Rajasthan than all of India combined. up images of

opulent palaces. It is said that there is more history in

The Hotel: Chosen as India’s best “Luxury historical Hotel”, The Imperial(5*)is an iconic property and the most distinguished address in New Delhi. The Hotel is steps away from Connaught Place, the renowned shopping district and is very close to the city’s major attractions. The property has a royal feel and thus reminds its guests of the British Raj. One of its five restaurants, “the Spice Route” has been termed as one of the world’s top ten restaurants by Condé Nast Traveler. The chef prepares lip-smaking asian delicacies and the decor is equally amazing. Embracing the chaos is an important part of any trip in India ! There will be endless traffic jams, crowded streets, incessant honking of horns, swerving motobikes and rickshaws… Learning to go with the flow will facilitate a much deeper understanding of the nation and culture. That’s why we often got off our private minivan to explore the city with a tuk tuk to the delight of my daughter.

I am listing the best of Delhi’s monuments, which you need to put at the top of your list for a heritage walk worth looking back on: - Humayun’s tomb: The fusion of Persian and Mughal architecture has lured its visitors since its creation (ended in 1572). UNESCO too was moved by the structure and listed Humayun’s Tomb as a World Heritage Site. - India Gate: The monument commemorates soldiers of the Indian army and officers from the UK, who sacrificed their lives in the third Anglo-Afghan War. - Jama Masjid: The last architectural Shah Jahan extravagance, it is one of the largest mosques in India. - Gurudwara Bangla Sahib: One of the most prominent Sikh temples. Best pilgrimage spot in Delhi. The concept of langar is practiced, and all people, regardless of race or religion may eat and drink fresh water. At the Gurdwara, visitors are requested to cover their hair and not to wear shoes. The place was crowded by indians and sikhs and we were the only tourists: total immersion! - Gandhi’s memorial: A simple black marble platform that marks the spot of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation. For a lot of Indian and European people this was the main attraction

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Jaïpur:

Jaïpur, populary known as the “Pink City” or “Paris of India” is the Capital of Rajasthan state: a city of deserts, royalty, craft and culture, Jaïpur and its people thrive in their vibrant and awe-inspiring surroundings. The people adorn traditional attires that reflect their grandiose past.

The hotel: The Oberoï Rajvilas is unique amongst hotels in Jaïpur; a royal resort set in a breathtaking thirty two acre oasis of beautiful landscaped gardens, filled with trees and exotic birdlife such as peacocks. This five star luxury hotel epitomises traditional Rajasthani charm. Don’t miss the charming outdoor dinner (even if it is cold outside in winter!). There is a magical atmosphere with flaming torches warming the guests and live folk music to accompany the dining experience. - Amber Fort: This palace is a dream come true. It is spectacular. An architectural pearl. Don’t miss the elephant ride to climb to the very top of the fort: It is definitely one of those moments when the rich history of India felt very vivid, allowing us to time travel to the era of Emperor Akbar. - Birla Mandir: a stunning white marble Hindu temple. - The Jal Mahal: (meaning “water Palace”) is a palace in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake in Jaïpur City. - The City Palace: It was the seat of the Maharaja of Jaïpur. The Chandra Mahal Palace now houses a museum, but the greatest part of it is still a royal residence. - Hawa Mahal: a.k.a. Palace of wind with its honeycomb architecture. Since the Rajput royal ladies should not been seen by strangers in public areas, its small windows allowed the queen and princesses to enjoy any processions and activities on the street without beeing seen by the public. - Jantar Mantar: The observatory consists of nineteen instruments measuring time. Enlightening! - Gataji temple (my crush of this trip): Considered as one of the jewels of Rajasthan, this hindu pilgrimage place is also called monkey temple because large tribes of monkeys have made it their home. (The temple has also been covered by National Geographic)

Fatehpur Sikri:

Jaïpur to Agra we stopped in Fatehpur Sikri, a town in the district of Uttar Pradesh. The city itself was founded as the capital of Mughal Empire In 1571 by Emperor Akbar. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre. The mosque also known as the “Friday mosque” is one of the largest mosques in India (165 m in lenght) our way from

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Agra: Being

the overexcited jumpy person

am,

thought that our next stop was one of the

got more hyped and eager at the

“7 Wonders of The World”!

Home to the exquisite Taj Mahal, Agra is the last city of our tour. The hotel: The Oberoï Amarvila enjoys an unrivalled position amongst luxury hotels in Agra, being located just 600 m from the iconic Taj Mahal (guests can travel there by private golf buggies). The spectacular view from the balcony suite is fascinating, for sure the best you can have in Agra. By the way the hotel is a real Palace; a Mughal style quadrant is ornemented with cascading fountains and framed by an arched passageway and gold leaf frescoes. - The Taj Mahal: The Taj mahal is widely considered one of the most beautiful buildings ever created. The exquisite white marble structure is a mausoleum, an enduring monument to the love of a husband to his wife (completed in 1648) - The red Fort: This walled city was the main residence of the Mughal dynasty till 1638, when the capital was shifted from Agra to Delhi. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site. - Itimâd-ud-Daulâ: Often described as a “jewel box”, sometimes called the “Baby Taj”, this tomb is often regarded as a draft of the Taj Mahal.

Conclusion:

Now I can say: Why did we wait so long before visiting India? Sure I will come back! It’s effervescent traditions, customs and appeal is so breathtaking. “It was as if all my life I had been seeing the world in black and white and, when brought face-to-face with India, experienced everything re-endered in brilliant technicolor”* *Keith Below

A special thanks to Jai, our private guide for the whole trip: his kindness and knowledge really involved us in Indian culture (Swagatam Tours Pvt Ltd)

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Tr o p i c a l Fa m i ly Christmas By Leila Russack

The sparkling Yuletide stars draped Sloane Street like a bejeweled necklace. The cosy European Christmas was soon too in the rearview mirror of the car. I was getting very comfortable on my flight to Sydney, sipping Arabic coffee and choosing candied orange-filled dates. The A380 landed into Kingsford Smith when light had dawned, and it was already 20 degrees outside. My Emirates chauffeur took me directly to Circular Quay. I left my luggage at the hotel, and began my Sydney rituals. My beacon is Balmoral Beach. One of my favourite views is this part of the Harbour from the slow, steep drive down Awaba Street. Paddle boarders and yachts are tiny trinkets in the calm cerulean water. When I arrive at the Bathers’ Pavilion, I am taken to a table by the glass shutters. The breeze is warm and fresh. I order the Tea Centre’s special-

ty Stockholm Blend and watch the sultry tide wash in, and out. Local artists adorn the walls with their garrulous paints and their swimmer’s dreams. Outside, a few parasols are perched for a day of sand and sun. I finish my tea and I’m ready for my pedicure to be praised by the shallows and massaged into the spongy foreshore. Immersed in the water’s cadence, my skin catches the first sunrays in months with a cute yellow bikini. Sir James Martin, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of New South Wales and thrice the State Premier, was honoured as Martin Place was officially opened in 1892. Martin Place is full of heritage-listed buildings, well distinguished by the plethoric use of rusticated rock-faced trachyte, a rough volcanic rock popular in the time. My favourite building is the Federation Romanesque former Bank of Australasia Building of 1904, now the home of Paspaley

Pearls. Complete with plush carpets, intricately molded vast ceilings and the original birdcage lifts, natural light dazzles the jewelry and, “What is that?” I am in love. A heavy, orient pearl from Northwest Australia is trapped in a rose gold and fine opal net. Can’t let go! “Lavalier! You found her.” And yes, he found me, finding my Christmas present. What a magical place to exchange gifts. “Champagne?” Kiss and fly, I’m on a plane to Far North Queensland, soon greeted by thick humidity and my lovely sister at Cairns airport. I assure her that Santa’s gifts have been carefully arranged in two suitcases, and we plan for the bags to be hidden from childrens’ sights until Joulupukki tiptoes around the tree late on Christmas Eve. Though my sister lives in the tropics, it doesn’t mean they don’t try to hold on to as many traditions from her and her husband’s Nordic and Continental heritages as they can. Their clean-lines open-plan kitchen with polished concrete everything is so spacious compared to my pokey cupboard of a kitchen in Central London. “Water?” She asks. “Tea?” I reply. Palm trees sway lazily, sunbirds twitter about, and one of the children points to a fairytale blue Ulysses butterfly. We start on creating the perfect Christmas condiments. We simmer an Australian Merlot and blackcurrant cordial with spices, stir the rice porridge forever, and whisk Yamagashi yolks ready for the best eggnog recipe on the planet (we’d like to thank Jamie Oliver personally). Somehow we have prunes with the pitts, and so we are rather discouraged from making luumukiisseli and prune stars. And with all the exciting discussions from the children, we lack

concentration for the appropriate time to add the eggs to the gingerbread recipe. A few fails, but oh my goodness, the gloggi makes up for it all! The painstaking prune soup is served with cream in Iittala kastehelmi dessert bowls, we can only use the Moomin Winter spoons and must pat our mouths with the Joulutonttu serviettes. Now we really deserve to relax into our Yuletide, and watch Home Alone Lost in New York and ignore the fact that air conditioning is necessary 21 hours of the day. The likelihood of snow in this part of the world is the next ice age. “Santa’s been!” The children chime at the first light. 5am. “I’m not ready!” Someone needs to put on the Tonttu hat, otherwise no gifts will be given out. It’s tradition! My Little Ponies glean from wrapping, and a racecar is held up high - not the size I wanted, so I pass it to my nephew! Besides of course the lustrous Lavalier pendant, my favourite gifts are the impossible to find FS Fitzgerald I’d Die for You and Other Lost Stories, and Goldie Hawn in The Devil Becomes Her. “Our new Christmas movie!” My sister and I laugh. “You put a hole in my stomach!” We heat the rice porridge for the spritely children and for us sleepy adults. A little sprinkle of cinnamon and sugar, and we thank goodness for our foresight. A few days later, my sister and I take the car up along the Captain Cook Highway, where the Macalister Range tropical forest shoulders the mesmerising iridescent blue Coral Sea. Our first stop is Pebble Beach, famous for its stacks of balancing rocks. We breathe the crystalline air, and put down our souvenirs as we see the sign - Do Not Remove the Stones! “Been told!”

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We drive further up into the range, past an eerie sonorant sugar cane plantation, and over a single lane bridge we park the car under the pendulous tropical rainforest, and follow signs to the vestibule of the Silky Oaks Lodge. Green orchids, cut free in tiny vases on tables, we find we have the most delicious view of a hinterland stream as we â&#x20AC;&#x153;kippisâ&#x20AC;? our coconut pina coladas. Bathers gather up on a fallen log and find towels warming on smooth stones. Parakeets scare a tree monitor half way up the canopy. A canoe floats easily below in the speckled sunlight. Before being enticed to another drink, we sensibly meet the family back at Palm Cove for a swim between the nets. This time of the year, the Northern Australian beaches are rife with the minute deadly stingers Irukanji and Box jellyfish, so we heed warnings and stick to the lifeguarded area. In the New Year we meet a CSIRO researcher with samples of algae and a soft shell crab shell. She tells us about the study of the suspected breeding waters around the Double Island Reef, from which the stingers travel in the Northeasterly current directly to the popular beaches. She also tells us that today is the last day to swim safely in the nets, as the ocean will be riddled with the toxic swimmers who can easily get through them.

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There’s no way to escape the heat, but on Palm Cove there is enough breeze to sweep away the mosquitoes and the sweat beads. Almost as soon as we are seated at our terrace table, we dive into the wine list. They used to serve a Bindi Pinot Noir, but then for want of a white, we opt for a Yarra Valley Chardonnay. Well of course I’m sad to leave, however, one has to agree with the reasoning of my beautiful little niece who said to her serious older brother “Aunty has to go back to London to her home now.” Thank goodness we didn’t suffer the tears that normally happen at the airport. And it was a tiny white lie that I was going home so soon already, as I had a few more plans before my real departure, back in Sydney. My friend and I meet at the Aria roundabout and praise the weather for our choice of wedge heels, as the Sydney Opera House is no longer accessible by car. The sun is not yet close to setting at seven-twenty in the evening, but it has perfected a glow on one million chevron Sydney Tiles, which arduously enamour and mirror the Harbour’s sky in all its varying lights. We skip through into our seats in the Joan Sutherland Theatre ready for the operetta. The Merry Widow is so hilariously quick witted and theatrical. The stunning soprano Danielle de Niese has us in stitches with her characters’ leitmotif

“Ladies’ Choice” and her voice has us in goosebumps at times. The hottest day in Sydney was my last day, and while some were in snow, I was taking the stepping-stones from the heat. The first 45-degree stroll was from the Intercontinental to the Calyx pollination exhibition in the Botanical Gardens, where Moth Orchids and carnivorous plants were set in the most artful potted and walled display. Then I hoped I had enough water for the walk to the Art Gallery of New South Wales, where I saw the Rembrandt and the Dutch Golden Age exhibition. Though I have been to the Rijksmuseum before, it was a beautiful excuse to get out of the heat and see my favourite contrived still life by Jan Davidsz de Heem, who painted the most valuable and tradable florals of the 17th Century: tulips, carnations, peonies and daffodils. Details like the roaming insects and the reflection of a window in the vase are repeated in other works of the school. After star spotting in the Robert Mapplethorpe exhibition downstairs, I figured by then it was time for lunch. I had a good feeling I would be treated well and fed superbly at Otto’s on Woolloomooloo Wharf. When the hostess brought me a Champagne cocktail, Bellini, I knew I was right! I had a little wander down the wharf, seeing the yachts Kokomo and Kokomo II gave me enough for my sweet dreams on the plane back home to London.

A hotel with more charm than luxury, more elegance than formality and more choice than waste in the heart of Veneto. A landing place and not a place to transit: a perfect mix of progress and tradition. The hallmark of the 5 Star hotel AbanoRITZ is not opulence, but hospitality, tranquility, comfort and exclusivity. Time for yourself, time earned. At the AbanoRITZ you will be immersed in a suggestive atmosphere. An environment expertly designed and managed directly by the Poletto family, a great family that is and has always been an example and a mix of different generations and that has turned hospitality into a profession, a vocation.

Abano Ritz Spa & Wellfeeling Resort The AbanoRITZ has always followed its path believing in the value of tradition and has invested in the passion for progress, as we think that those who don’t have a past will have no future. We wanted tourism to have a human side: that of the Poletto family, of the people who work with them and especially that of the many guests who every year choose the AbanoRITZ again and reward us with their trust. Offering a very warm welcome to our guests is our way of doing business, faithful to the authenticity of our proposal and proud of our 50 years of work.

CHARITY

P a ss i o n S e a By Helga Piaget

artworks from their international children art contest, with words of wisdom, from royalties, celebrities, world record holders and scientists; the volume celebrates the vision on water of the 21st century. “We are so grateful for everyone who was involved in the process,” affirms the President. Bridging generations and opinions helps bring awareness to this important cause. Messages from H.S.H Prince Albert II, Andrea Bocelli, Michael Jordan, Ringo Starr are intertwined with pivotal scientists such as Dr. Masaru Emoto, Dr. Gerald H. Pollack, JeanMichel Cousteau and John Englander. Each person involved brings his or her unique vision and perspective. Art is a universal tool and language. By the use of symbols, colors, forms, composition and perspective children bring forth their narrative. The three art contest winners, James Murphy (4 years old, United Sates of America), Hudson Kaplan (10 years old, United States/ Japan) and Tamana Khan (7 years old, India), received a cash prize for their education and are featured at the beginning of the book. Their works brilliantly show their input and observation of water though their pure minds. The colorful spectrum of the production and its flow bring forth a positive outlook for change and possibilities. After reading the book, you really understand how water connects us all and is essential for our survival. With the educational content, some very interesting facts about memory- how water is affected by energy such as words and vibrations- culture, traditions and pollution invite us to delve deeper into some fascinating knowledge and facts. In the last fifty years industries and farming only looked to increase productivity, neglecting all consequences for the environment. Plastic, was first seen as a great invention, but is becoming a life-threatening enemy for ocean life. There is so much to learn about this subject that you realize how little you know; a fascinating experience.

Passion Sea brings awareness about water and our future Passion Sea is a nonprofit organization promoting, on an international scale, the respect and preservation of our waters through education and creativity. Helga Piaget, CEO, founded Passion Sea in 2014 and is the visionary behind the global effort to rehabilitate, restore and cherish the water of our planet. She is directing multi-level projects in conjunction with her daughter Fiona Tan, a world-renowned artist, who is combining creative and visual elements as well as forging the connection between technology and nature. Sandro Piaget, a professional golfer, adds the sporting component, raising the awareness and connecting its mission with world-renowned athletes. Passion Sea focuses on youth during their formative years, as they become aware of the importance of protecting the Earth’s waters. Children are in charge of the world of tomorrow and will shape its future. The nonprofit nominated two Children Ambassadors to represent its mission and message around the world. Princesses Maria Carolina and Maria Chiara Bourbon of the Two-Sicilies are the “voices” speaking on behalf of children across the globe, collaborating with great enthusiasm for exposure in various media. “We see the protection of the seas and oceans as a way of giving back to the world all the privileges we have had by birth. Somewhere being “Princesses” is for us like a motor, which propels us to do beautiful things! “ Declare Princess Maria Carolina and Princess Maria Chiare Bourbon of the Two-Siciles. The nonprofit makes an impact all around the globe in many ways: through art, education, films and books. “We allow children to understand that Water is Life: it is not only what we need, it is what we are” explains Helga Piaget. Passion Sea released their new book “Water is Life: Thoughts of Our Generation”. This beautiful publication is a work of art created by vice president and creative director Fiona Tan. By combining

“The preservation of the seas is a vital cause for the living environment of future generations”, HSH Prince Albert II

Piaget, the jewelry brand, is one of the main sponsors. Their focus on creativity, innovation and excellence joins parallels for the education and preservation of water, a luxury to be reminded of. The nonprofit organized multiple galas and events in Monaco, Palm Beach, Italy, Slovenia and Switzerland to name a few. Children around the world are being taught important facts about water, where it comes from, what it reacts to, what it is used for, from drinking to production of any technology and fashion, how they can help sustain it and make better choices for the future. Talks with scientists as well as art sessions are regularly organized; they help them understand, appreciate and love this precious gift of nature. It is knowledge and action that help create a better future and change the patterns of the past. The future is full of water sensibilization. When discussing the projects ahead, the following has been cited. “We are mounting collaborations with schools and different educational entities; establishing programs, finalizing a book series for children, revealing compelling facts and experiments as part of their educational progression. We are working with world-class entertainment producers and composers on a Passion Sea signature theme song and musical production to spread the message across the globe. Respecting water helps children respect our planet as well as each other, “a humanitarian endeavor which can build exponentially!” explains Helga Piaget.

B EAUTY

Th e S h i f t f r o m Tr e at m e n t t o P r e v e n t i o n By Helène Rambaud

While the longevity industry has really just emerged within the past few years, it already has a number of big-name players. Take Calico for example, a venture launched by Google in 2013 with the explicit goal of extending healthy longevity and tackling age-related diseases. Calico’s operations are very stealth, but from what has thus far been publicly disclosed we know that it has a very long-term mission, and that it is setting its sights on treating the process of aging itself as a disease. Lead by CEO Arthur D. Levinson, Chair of Apple, the company has had investments of $350 million by both Google and AbbVie, each with the option to invest $500 million at a later date. And Google is not alone. Take HumanLongevity Inc. (HLI), founded by genomics pioneer J. Craig Venter (one of the men behind the Human Genome Project), Peter Diamandis and Robert Hariri. HLI’s strategy is to build the largest and most comprehensive database linking human genotypes, microbiomes and phenotypes. Using this database, HLI hopes to be able to use Big Data types of analysis to discover the genetic and molecular basis underlying disease and aging. In order to facilitate this type of analysis, HLI has hired Franz Och, the former head of Google Translate to be its Chief Data Scientist. It has thus far received just under $300 million in funding, and stands as one of the future leaders of the industry.

A more recent example is Unity, a startup founded in 2009 that received a whopping $116 million from investors during its second round of equity investment in 2016, one of whom is the current CEO of Amazon, Jeff Bezos. Unity aims to clear the body of senescent cells - that is, cells that have lost the ability to divide and hang around the body emitting damaging cellular byproducts. They aim to translate existing laboratory research, in which clearance of the senescent cells of mice extended their healthy lifespan and extended their maximum lifespan by a substantial 30%, into practical therapies for use in human patients. Unity stands out as a promising geroscience venture due to the massive amounts of funds that they were able to acquire despite not having had any human clinical trials yet, backed solely on the credibility of their science. These examples serve to show that, what was once considered fringe science, is now a veritable industry being led by some of the world’s top entrepreneurial visionaries. But beyond the work that has thus far been described as characterizing the emerging longevity industry, there exists two other markets that, while perhaps not a part of the “true” longevity industry per-se, are distinctly related and convergent with it. These are the AgeTech market and the P3 medicine market. P3 (personalized, precision and preventative) medicine encompasses the use of therapies that are personally tailored to individual patient populations based upon their own unique genetic profiles, which in turn determines how they respond to a given treatment. Because patient response is a highly variable phenomenon, drugs don’t work equally well for all patients. By combining genetic testing with tailored treatments, medicine as a whole can be vastly improved. By combining preventative therapies - that is, therapies that are given to prevent disease rather than treat them after the fact, of which geroscience therapies are one example - with person-

alized therapies, P3 medicine is born. While not as new to the scene as the longevity industry, P3 medicine is still an emerging industry with great potential, that needs to be fostered in order to mature into a strong, impactful industry. P3 medicine is still a somewhat advanced concept that has not yet been integrated into traditional medical practices and healthcare systems in the developed world, that is where the trend is heading, as more and more evidence on improvements in clinical outcomes as a result of P3 medicine accumulate. Despite this fact, the necessary science and technology for a first-generation P3 medicine clinic is here now, able to be implemented for those who can afford it, before P3 medicine becomes the standard-of-care in developed nations, covered by the majority of citizens’ insurance plans. Such a clinic would consist of a suite of diagnostic tests to measure various parameters of bodily health, as well as those parameters that partly determine patient-specific responses to treatments, which are correlated via data analysis software to patient specific therapies and/or therapeutic doses that are chosen so as to have maximum therapeutic effect for each of the clinic’s patients. Examples of diagnostic technologies that could be implemented today include genetic marker testing (i.e. sequencing and determination of genetic markers of health and disease), whole-genome sequencing, whole-epigenome sequencing, whole-body MRI, telomere-length measurement and measurement of a suite of bloodbased markers of disease and health. Examples of personalized therapies that could be implemented today include patient-specific nutraceutical and small molecule cocktails delivered at patient-specific doses, personalized diet and behavioural recommendations, and cell and gene therapies once they are approved for use by developed nations’ regulatory agencies.

B EAUTY

Both geroscience and P3 medicine are part of the same paradigm shift in modern medicine and healthcare, away from single-disease treatment after the fact and toward personalized multi-disease prevention by targeting the biological processes that underlie and lay the foundations for the diseases of middle and old age. While P3 medicine and geroscience are distinct fields, their union - that is, personalized geroscience therapies - is going to be one of the key trends behind the eventual success of the longevity industry, and the best foreseeable means of maximizing the therapeutic effect and success of geroscience therapies. Meanwhile, demographic ageing (i.e., the ongoing and accelerating increase in the size of developed nations’ elderly demographic) continues apace, and may reach levels that make it necessary for older demographics to remain a part of the workforce before the longevity industry bears its fruit in the clinic. Enter AgeTech. The AgeTech market encompasses any non-biomedical product or service that helps seniors stay active within society and cope with declines in productivity and functionality. Much of the current AgeTech market consists of assistive IT products and services that make it easier to remain actively engaged in society and to remain productive in the workplace. Due to the process of demographic ageing, the potential size of this market is poised to explode over the course of the next few decades. And, indeed, because elderly workers are expected to have to remain a part of the workforce in order to prevent economic collapse due to the eventually-unsustainable costs of elderly securities like Medicaid and Medicare, it is in businesses’ best interest to begin integrating such technology into the workplace. Take, for instance, BMW, who chose workers of an average age of 47 for one of their assembly lines as an experiment to determine what kinds of workplace changes would be required to sustain productivity in the face of an older demographic of workers. The workers making up this assembly line are 8 years older than the

average BMW production line employee, and the program, titled ‘Today for Tomorrow,’ was designed to simulate the kind of workforce they expect to employ in a few years’ time. BMW managers in coordination with the production line employees instituted 70 changes to the workplace to accommodate this older workforce, and the team increased it productivity by 7% throughout the year, in the end becoming just as productive as the younger production line teams through the workplace changes they instituted. And it is not just industry that is taking note. At the 2015 White House Conference on Aging (a once-per-decade conference involving parties from all variety of sectors serving older citizens), the Obama administration declared that they see technology as the future of old age. For every one of the four topics that were focused upon, including promoting healthy aging, building long-term services and supports, promoting elder justice and preventing abuse and improving retirement security, advancements in technology came out as the key solution. BMW’s project should serve as an example for every business, who can expect to be employing a workforce with increasing numbers of older workers, because the AgeTech industry is going to be their key to maintaining workforce productivity in the face of demographic aging in close times to come. Thus, we see that the longevity industry is still young, but growing up fast, and that in the meantime, we have a number of distinct but related and convergent fields and industries, like P3 medicine and AgeTech, to help us along the way until the longevity industry really begins to bear its fruit in the clinic. P3 medicine can contribute to the minimization, but not the true prevention, of age-related disease, and AgeTech can help the elderly demographics of developed nations stay active and productive in society, remaining in the workforce for long enough and with enough productive functionality to stage off the demographic ageing crisis that threatens to cripple if not collapse whole economies due to unsustainable increases in nations’ old age dependency ratios.

B EAUTY

H ow

M e n: A g e G r ac e f u l ly By Dr. Valeria Acampora, MD

Antiaging Medicine, London

A not so funny thing happens to men as they mature. After the career is launched, the job and family fortune secured, the promise of youth gives way to “I’ve made it,” what’s next? Men still want to continue to live with plenty of energy, enthusiasm and excitement way after 50 years of age. However, not enough men are capable to continue enjoying that opportunity. They notice, their muscles shrink, their performance in the bedroom falls off, they tire easily, they gain weight, especially around the middle, they don’t sleep as well, they experience memory loss and difficulty in concentration, they acquire dark spots on the skin, they might even be overtly anxious or depressed, they feel their motivation is decreased; in other words, there is a loss of excitement about life and career and they experience a lowered self-confidence. No matter what a man has achieved in his life, or maybe still wants to achieve, there is no point whatsoever to it if he is no longer enjoying life to the full. The reality is that, although it is considered to be a taboo subject, men also experience age-related changes in their hormone levels. Unlike the more dramatic reproductive hormone plunge that occurs in women during menopause, hormone changes in men occur gradually. Some people like to call it “male menopause” but in medicine we use the term “andropause” to describe aging-related hormone changes in men. The truth is hormone production starts declining in men each decade after

their 20s. By the time they’re in their 70s, they’re only producing a fraction of the hormones they made in their youth. Those changes they’ve been noticing (lack of energy, belly fat, loss of muscle mass, and mood changes) are not coincidental. And even their high cholesterol levels can be due to hormonal imbalances. The decline of our hormones’ levels are, in fact, also associated with an increased risk of a variety of chronic age-related conditions, such as osteoporosis, sarcopenia, cardiovascular disease, stroke, diabetes, dementia and other neurodegenerative diseases. Increases in life expectancy have led to an increase in the number of people living with those chronic age-related diseases. Luckily science has collated the evidence and created a tailor-made solution capable to shed some of the more destructive side effects of the hormone decline and of the so-called “andropause”. The solution is called “bio-identical hormone replacement therapy or BHRT”. It consists of the use of hormones to resolve symptoms related to the decline in hormone production tied to aging, and to prevent age-related diseases. Men need to wake up to their physiology. Pretending that everything’s fine is no longer acceptable. It’s time to realize that there’s nothing admirable or courageous about holding everything in. The world has moved on. Women have moved on. It’s time men moved on, too.

DESTINATION

L’A l b e r g o d e l l a R egi na Isa be l l a R e s o r t & H e a lt h S pa Between the stars and the sea the only 5* luxury hotel of Ischia

Ischia

is an enchanting place with expansive views from which to enjoy its breath-

taking landscape.The largest island in the

Gulf of Naples, Ischia offers visitors a Aragonese Castle, built by Gerone, tyrant of Syracuse in 474 B.C., to the Archeological Museum of Pithecusae. Other attractions include, the Italian film director Luchino Visconti’s summer residence “La Colombaia” which now hosts the International Cultural Centre; the Maddalena forest and Mount Epomeo, ideal for naturalistic excursions; and “La Mortella” – the botanical gardens created by English musician William Walton. variety of attractions ranging from the

L’Albergo della Regina Isabella is located in the northwestern part of Lacco Ameno, an area that extends from the sea to the slopes of Mount Epomeo. Lacco Ameno is the smallest municipality of the island, famous since ancient times for Queen Isabella’s thermal waters. The thermal baths at Lacco Ameno were known as long ago as the 5th century B.C., when it was a popular resort of Imperial Rome. L’Albergo della Regina Isabella was built in the 1950’s by Angelo Rizzoli.The island’s beauty and thermal baths captivated the illustrious publisher and film director. In 1956 he decided to enlarge historic Regina Isabella’s thermal baths and build a resort over the ancient Greek - Roman ruins. After just a few years, Ischia and “L’Albergo della Regina Isabella” became the centre of attraction for cosmopolitan worldliness. Celebrities such as Richard Burton, Liz Taylor, Maria Callas, Alberto Sordi and William Holden enlivened those popular years making it one of the most exclusive and glamorous destinations. In more recent years, representatives of the entertainment and business industry, as well as politicians and intellectuals gravitate around the hotel attracted by the prestigious cultural events that are organized in Ischia. L’Albergo della Regina Isabella resides directly on the seashore, in the midst of a peaceful bay surrounded by rocky shores and lush Mediterranean vegetation.The main entrance of the hotel faces the picturesque square of Santa Restituta, known for the church bearing the same name. The bright and lofty Mediterranean-style interiors are decorated with hand-painted Neapolitan-tiled floors, derived from the old tradition of the school of Capodimonte. L’Albergo della Regina Isabella offers its guests the possibility to choose between three restaurants, managed by Michelin-star Ex ecutive Chef Pasquale Palamaro, in which to dine with magnificent 95

sea views and numerous delicious traditional Mediterranean dishes accompanied by the finest wines. . L’Albergo della Regina Isabella is very famous by its prestigious spa. The qualities of the waters, called “multi-active,” have beauty and healing benefits, according to careful scientific research. A medical team, in fact, is ready to welcome every guest and to make a customized beauty and wellness course. Le Terme della Regina Isabella offer a variety of treatments that take advantage of the beneficial effects of various massages, nutrition and fitness programmes. Attentive toward any new breakthroughs in the aesthetic and medical field, the spa offers thermal plastic (anti-aging) dermatological treatments. These are true miracles of eternal youth that use the benefits of thermal waters to produce a longer lasting effect in the prevention of skin aging and other skin problems.A sinergy between tradition and modernity that we call Health Spa. The treatmens are effective about four areas, Medical-Spa, Wellness, Beauty, Relax, and can be more effective depending on total course structure. In the land of volcanoes, “multi-active” waters and mud baths have been renowned, since ancient times, for their remarkable regenerative and therapeutic qualities. The thermo-mineral springs of Lacco Ameno are “hyper-thermal,” that is they gush out at a high temperature (80 °C) and are rich in minerals such as: chloride, sodium, bicarbonate, sulfur and magnesium. They are known as “multi-active” waters because of the numerous beneficial qualities they possess. These thermal waters have been studied since the early 1900’s - Nobel Prize winner Marie Curie was one of these scientists - and certified through medical literature.

IN CONVERSATION WITH

I n C onversation with H elene Benhamou

a well-known interna-

and lifeHelene has lived in Los Angeles, Paris, New York and most recently, London. With an established social and profestional

interior

style designer,

sional network around the world, she has developed a

great following in the art, design and fashion worlds.

Given the wonderfully prominent social base she has established world-wide, she has been approached by many global brands such as Christian Dior, Ralph and Russo and Chanel Haute Joaillerie amongst others to wear their garments to events, attend fashion shows and help connect their brand with her extensive network. Along

with her personal network, she has developed a great following on

social media and has become an influencer within the fashion industry.

Many

garments featured in her posts are enquired about in store by her followers and in many cases have sold out.

One with

of her most successful partnerships to date was an event organised

Christian Dior in their beautiful Bond Street flagship boutique.

She is a person who lives life to the fullest and who is known for curating the beautiful everywhere she goes.

Before

becoming an interior designer you were an antique dealer in Paris. Please could you tell us a little bit about this time in your life ?

After having lived in LA for ten years, I decided to move back to Paris, to be closer to my family, which also gave me the opportunity to pursue one of my passions - art. I opened a gallery in the flea market in Paris and it was truly a memorable and great time in my life. I had so much fun sourcing antiques from all over Europe, meeting exceptional artists and turning my gallery into an ever-evolving Pompeian villa. It quickly became a staple where I would host weekend brunches, cocktail parties and events for amazing friends and clients.

What inspired you to move into interior design ? I would say that I had two turning points which propelled me into the world of Interior Design. I have always somehow worked in the creative world, whether in Fashion, Art or the Gallery. That said, when I moved to New York in 1998, I fell in love with an extraordinary space on Madison Avenue that I just knew needed something special, something different. That is when I came up with the idea of creating a beautiful home decor boutique with amazing furnishings and accessories from Europe. What made it truly different was that the entire store, called A La Maison, was set up like a real home. So every month or so, I had the chance to redesign the space completely! By then, friends and clients from around the world would frequently come to me asking for advice, which went beyond simple accessories. It was with that, that I chose to throw myself into interior design starting both in New York and London.

that when you do something from your heart, only good can come of it. I am blessed that I am able to pursue my passions, what makes my heart race, what makes me smile in the morning and make a business out of it. Naturally, there are always difficulties in overcoming challenges with suppliers, the emotional trials of designing someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home and the stresses of deadlines, but just like with anything, it is those obstacles that make me appreciate the rewards all the more. Being able to translate someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dreams into a physical space, traveling the world to discover new techniques and making people smile are ultimately some of the best rewards of my job.

Which is your favorite city and why ? My heart, despite all my travels and all my homes, has always and will always be in Paris. It is my true home and where I feel the most comfortable. Not to mention, it has the best shopping in the world!

well as being an interior designer you are also a lifestyle designer please can you explain how you can help people in this way ?

The idea of lifestyle designer is clearly a much looser term for the fact that many of my clients and friends love to know what I do, where I go, where I eat, how I travel, etc. This quickly translated into an opportunity to positively influence those around me by inspiring them to enjoy life to the fullest in every way. It could be something as simple as giving relationship advice, brainstorming career opportunities or helping put together the birthday party of a lifetime - there are no rules, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s partially why I love it so much.

What

What do you think constitutes a fabulous lifestyle ?

I believe that like with anything you do in life, there are good times, and less good times. That said I also believe more than anything

A fabulous lifestyle is one that is enjoyed to the fullest. Savouring each and every moment and not taking anything for granted are essential to truly understanding what a rich and fabulous life really

are the best and worst aspects of being an interior designer ?

IN CONVERSATION WITH

is. Waking up with the feeling that today you can get that much closer to your dreams and what you truly want to achieve far outweigh the material nature of life. I take this approach with everything that I do, and I find that I enjoy my life so much more for it.

I have to say that I am most proud of my two children. It is certainly a never-ending job but one that never ceases to amaze me!

What

To follow your heart and be excellent in everything you do. Before you show your client anything you most adore it and your client will feel your passion and energy and love it too. Interior design is a business of love and passion and you must communicate that is what you do.

design project that you have undertaken are you most proud of ?

I would have to choose a stunning Dacha (Russian country house) that I designed outside of Moscow. The architecture was so unique and traditional that it was a rare chance to carry that lavish Russian style from another era throughout the interiors. Every space from the bedrooms to the pool was intricately designed, and I am so happy to see how even today nothing seems dated.

You have lived and worked all over the world, where do you feel most at home and why ? Paris and London equally feel like home for meâ&#x20AC;Ś oh and on an aeroplane!

your many achievements in life what are you most proud of?

you have any advice for any aspiring interior designers hoping to break into this competitive industry?

What are you working on at the moment? This is an exciting time. I am continuing to grow and work on amazing design projects around the world, in addition to which I have now been able to work with some truly special charity foundations that are very close to my heart. I am starting to work on some inspirational projects (top secret for now!) that I cannot wait to share with you very soon.

What do you value most in life and design? Beauty, quality, sophistication and elegance.

PHILANTHROPY

Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou Giving Back To Society by Simon Piggott

The Foundation gives support in four main ways: scholarships (Stelios’ almae matres Doukas School in Athens, London School of Economics and City University - Cass Business School), supporting entrepreneurship with cash prizes (Leonard Chesire Charity helping entrepreneurs with a disability in the UK), donating money to environmental and other charities (WWF, Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation) in his chosen areas of focus, and operating a programme in Greece and Cyprus called “Food from the Heart” (about 12 million snacks have been distributed since 2013 to help those in need) as well as fostering bi-communal relations between Greek and Turkish Cypriots who cooperate on the island of Cyprus in order to promote lasting peace in this community via cash prizes for setting up businesses together. Many people in Europe might have heard the name Stelios before in connection with Easyjet, the low-cost airline he founded in 1995, which has become a household name over the past twenty-odd years.

“My belief is that nobody has a monopoly on good charitable ideas, and the problems in our world will never go away. So we have to keep helping, within our means, forever …”

But not all of Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou’s 81 million passengers in 2017 are may be aware of an important element that has shaped his actions over the past 10 years – giving back to society, having been at least “twice lucky” as he likes to say.

We would like to take this opportunity to remind our readers of the upcoming 6th Annual cocktail party in aid of WWF to be held in Monaco which will include a silent auction of works of art in July. Have a look at the link for past events https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=13&v=7MRwWvyWCQ8 For further information please contact info@stelios.org

“I inherited some wealth from my father, a self-made Greek-Cypriot shipping magnate and then I was lucky enough to have been at the right place at the right time to start a business that did much better than I ever could have hoped. However by creating easyJet, the successful London based and now pan-European lowcost airline in 1995, when I was 28 years old, and then by building a royalty income stream from the easy family of brands (www. easy.com), I regard myself as doubly fortunate.” So much so that after having set up the Stelios Philanthropic Foundation in the UK and Monaco (www.stelios.org) some years ago in May 2017 he committed half of his wealth through The Giving Pledge (www.givingpledge.org), a group of philanthropists headed by Bill Gates, thus raising even further awareness about giving back. The mission statement of his Foundation is to support philanthropic activities primarily in places where the founder has lived and worked : the UK, Greece, Cyprus and Monaco.

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POLO

Polo Challenges A round the World by Irina Kazaridi, equestrian and polo photographer • ww w. i r i na ka za r i di co lle c ti o n. co m •

The

polo season brings together top patrons and professionals

from around the world to compete in the most prestigious locations.

True

to form, stylish afternoons of chic summer whites

and stimulating thrills.

Whilst the United Kingdom prides itself Europe enjoys an equally challenging season from a more approachable angle. with the highest goal tournaments, the rest of

Polo communities are rightfully called “the nomad tribe”. Starting in United Kingdom in May it moves to the South of France where summer polo opens in the beginning of July. The St Tropez Polo Club has become a force to be reckoned with in the polo circuit flaunting more stables, more professionals and competitive patrons than ever before. This allows a high goal polo throughout the summer. Another notable place in Europe at the height of the summer season is Sotogrande, which is in the south of Spain, near Gibraltar. Polo communities flock here in August along with their families and friends. Here you can meet a constellation of 10 goal polo players - they spend a month practicing on the private fields in the picturesque Ayala Polo Club and in the Dos Lunas Polo Club. There are also stables with the best polo horses, which are delivered by trailers from England, where the season at this time ends. Some are even flown in from Argentina by airplane. The competitions are held in the Santa Maria Polo Club. Last year, Ayala Polo Team were the winners of the 46th International Polo Tournament, competing among the strongest teams such as La Indiana Polo Team. Next, polo follows its true homeland in Argentina, and from January to April it goes to Dubai and Wellington, Florida where polo patrons and the best polo players are fighting for the title of the winners of the tournament. The International Polo Club Palm Beach is the premier polo destination in the world, hosting the largest field of high-goal teams and the most prestigious polo tournaments in the United States. Polo enthusiasts descend upon Wellington each winter season to enjoy their love of the sport in the most prominent and well-equipped polo facility. Polo matches are open to the public, with a wide range of hospitality and guest seating that includes

104

POLO

Robert Strom

and Aristide Faggionato swimming with the horses at Rio De Guadiaro, Sotogrande.

Portrait of Grant Ganzi with his polo horse ATM at the stables of Santa Rita Polo Farm.

Nic Roldan with one of his horses at Dos Lunas polo club.

Early morning horse walk at the Santa Rita Polo Farm

105

Ignacio Novillo Astrada and Marc Ganzi, Coca-Cola vs Audi Polo Team.

Josefina Aldanondo, beautiful polo-wife of 10 goaller Juan Martin Nero in Sotogrande at the Dos Lunas Stables.

elegant grandstand viewing, field tailgating, stadium seating, field-side champagne brunch at The Pavilion, and exclusive sponsor boxes. Santa Rita Polo Farm, one of the biggest polo farms in Wellington, owned by Melissa and Marc Ganzi- successful amateur player-patrons. Grand Champions Polo Club belongs to them as well. During fall, winter and spring seasons, Grand Champions Polo Club hosts polo tournaments ranging from six to 26-goal in addition to special events on its 10 well-manicured fields.The club features monthly 6, 8 and 12-goal tournaments and women’s weekly league play during the winter season in addition to two 16-20 tournaments, $50,000 National 12 Goal, $100,000 World Cup winner-take-all 0-40-goal tournament, Sunny Hale’s Legacy WCT Final and USPA National President’s Cup.

106

POLO

British Polo Day celebrates 10 th

anniversary event in in the

Year

Zayed

Photos by Sam Churchill

British Polo Day, presented by Chelsea Barracks and hosted by the Al Habtoor family, celebrated its 10th event in Dubai on 30th March 2018. In advance of the first British Polo Day in New York this summer, the invitation only event is now firmly part of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sporting and social calendar.

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Dubai

British Polo Day is an unparalleled platform celebrating the history and heritage of polo with a global community, bringing together the world’s top companies and key influencers. It provides a platform for business in emerging and growth markets, giving partners enviable access to international contacts.

A brilliant play by Malcolm Borwick let them sneak the vital fifth goal with 15 seconds to play on the Jaeger Le Coultre scoreboard, and thus a rare victory against Habtoor. A game played at great pace with great skill by both teams.

Returning to Dubai for the 10th year, British Polo Day saw four teams battle it out for The VistaJet Cup and The Habtoor Plate. Over 250 top British and international players have played at British Polo Day since its inception, and this year attracted well known names from across the polo world, such as World Number One female player Nina Clarkin and her husband JP Clarkin, Captain of the New Zealand polo team; and Rashid Al Habtoor, leading Habtoor Polo this year.

Tom Hudson, Co Founder and Chairman of British Polo Day, said: “British Polo Day is incredibly honoured to be celebrating our 10th Dubai event. Our great partners – with over 2,000 years of combined heritage between them – say so much about the relationship building opportunities that British Polo Day creates. The CEO Ben Vestey and I are extremely proud that this event is taking place during the Year of Zayed, at a time of increasingly blossoming relations between UAE and the UK. So many exciting technological innovations are happening here, and we look forward to many more years of being at the heart of the action in UAE. We are hugely grateful to the Habtoor family for all their support.”

The British Exiles have never beaten Habtoor Polo in the nine years they’ve been playing, and despite the presence of Nina Clarkin and Malcolm Borwick, at half time it seemed that Habtoor Polo would be victorious with 3 goals to the stick of Guillermo Cuitino in the second period. The vital third chukka saw no score by either team, despite heavy pressure by Habtoor Polo on the British Exiles goal. It seemed a hill too steep to climb, but some brilliant work mid chukka by JP Clarkin saw them half a goal behind going into the last 30 seconds.

The success of the British Polo Day has been largely down to word of mouth endorsement from many guests and supporters including key figures in government, diplomats, military, fashion, art and popular culture. In addition, British Polo Day has hosted members of 12 royal families, 100 independent billionaires and leaders in world innovation including Sir Richard Branson and Elon Musk. Over 20,000 guests have enjoyed British Polo Day in the last seven years, and British Polo Days have to date raised over $2 million USD, from the start in 2011.

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