C California Style

Page 1

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marion cotillard the french bombshell Knows no bounds

best in vintage

handbag revivals sonoma Wineries The laTesT from DecaDes

CALIFORNIA STYLE

C a l i f o r n i a’ s l i f e s t y l e m a g a z i n e

temple of treasures

white out

ann getty’s awe-inspiring berkeley Design

moDernist to the max in san franCisCo

the jewelry + accessories issue

TOTALLY ENChANTINg LAYEREd gEmS FALL IN LINE wITh ThE SEASON’S NEw uNIFORm

november 2012

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C november 2012

features

The sky’s the limit for oscarwinning actress marion Cotillard.

108 Getty FAbulOus In the eucalyptus-scented berkeley hills, designer Ann Getty honors the bernard maybeck Temple of Wings with a paean to the Aesthetic movement.

114 INsIde Out Jeff Koons speaks candidly to Jeffrey Deitch in this exclusive from the moCA and Louis vuitton Art Talks.

118 hIGhly decORAted

MARION cOtIllARd in a Gucci dress, Page 100.

Lydia Hearst salutes the season’s military-inspired fashions with statement-making diamonds and a surplus of rings, bracelets and brooches.

MATTHIAS VRIENS-McGRATH. SEE SHoppING GuIdE foR MoRE dETAIlS, pAGE 129

100 New heIGhts

C 16 november 2012

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Š2011 Cartier

Visit and Shop www.cartier.us

Trinity pearls

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Advertiser:

Cartier


C

lydia hearst in a tom Ford shirt, and david yurman earrings, pendant and ring, Page 120.

november 2012

departments there boots. opening Ceremony

C’s multifaceted accessories issue.

fêtes 10 years with a new collection.

24 C PeoPle

67 C beauty

Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

Autumn’s bare essentials. L.A.’s

95 C Culture The latest from vintage proprietor and contributing editor Cameron Silver. For the girls: a Jay DeFeo retrospective at SFmomA.

hottest new health cleanse and five

29 C what’s hot

of our favorite fall scents.

129 shoPPing guide

places and products around the

75 C home

130 C CaliFornia

state: Parabellum goes femme.

Alex Chases’ stylish nob Hill

How madonna “stole” the oscars.

Aerin Lauder’s new flame.

retreat. Suzan Fellman teams

L.A.’s real estate king rick Caruso.

up with coastal-cool decorator

A look at new and exciting people,

Tim Clarke. Foliage for the table.

42 rePorts From the soCial Front

83 C the menu

C’s events diarist is in good

The chocolate revolution continues.

company as she hits some

Start your holiday food and favor

marion Cotillard photographed

unforgettable parties.

shopping now. And, in Sacramento,

by Matthias Vriens-Mcgrath in a Valentino

a culinary talent to watch.

gown. See Shopping guide for more

on our Cover

details, page 129. Styled by Jeanne Yang

51 C Fashion This season, make a statement

89 C travel

with over-the-top baubles,

Pack up your resort whites

disco-chic clutches and up-to-

and escape to Phuket, Thailand.

at the Wall group. HAIR Robert Vetica at the Magnet Agency for Moroccanoil. MAKeup francesca tolot at Cloutier Remix. MAnICuRISt Miwa Kobayashi.

WILLIAMS + HIRAKAWA. See SHoppIng guIde foR MoRe detAILS, pAge 129

22 Founder’s letter

C 18 november 2012

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09252012200600



C JENNiFER HALE

Founder + editorial director

LESLEY CAMPOY president + publisher JENNY MuRRAY editor

PAuL LuSSiER

SuE CHRiSPELL

design director

associate publisher, west

ALiSON CLARE STEiNGOLD

RENEE MARCELLO

senior editor

associate publisher, east

KELSEY MCKiNNON

CRiSTA vAGHi

senior editor

account director, california

SAMANTHA TRAiNA

ALExANDRA vON BARGEN

Fashion editor

account director, New york

ELiZABETH KHuRi CHANDLER

SuZANNE PERREAuLT

arts + culture editor

production director

ANNiNA MiSLiN

CATHERiNE ABALOS

assistant Fashion editor

sales + marketing manager

CAROLiNE CAGNEY

ERiN GWiN

associate style editor

administrative assistant

JACKiE TREiTZ

TROY FELKER

designer

Finance associate

MiCHAEL GREEN

SANDY HuBBARD

contributing photo editor

information technology director

style editor-at-large

George Kotsiopoulos

saN FraNcisco editor-at-large

desigN editor-at-large

Diane Dorrans Saeks

special projects director/sHo & compaNy, iNc. special projects coNtributor

Allison Oleskey

Greg Wolfe, Russell Marth

Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson

coNtributiNg writers coNtributiNg pHotograpHers iNterNs

Kendall Conrad

Stephanie Steinman

circulatioN coNsultaNts/circulatioN specialists, iNc. coNtributiNg editors

Andrea Stanford

coNtributiNg editor-at-large

Cat Doran, Melissa Goldstein, Marshall Heyman, Christine Lennon, Nora Zelevansky

David Cameron, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Jessica Haye + Clark Hsiao, Lisa Romerein, Williams + Hirakawa

Maudie Banta, Kelsey Chapman, Melanie Hervey, Gabrielle Maio, Krista Natali, Melinda Roybal, Mor Weizman

C PuBLiSHiNG LLC TEYMOuR BOuTROS-GHALi

chairman NiCHOLAS HALE

Vice president + chief Financial officer C OFFiCES CALiFORNiA NEW YORK

1543 seventh street, 2nd Floor, santa monica, ca 90401, 310-393-3800

1120 avenue of the americas, 4th Floor, New york, Ny 10036, 212-626-6980 SuBSCRiBER SERviCE

800-775-3066

WWW.MAGAZiNEC.COM

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C Magazine • November 2012 • Single Page • RHP • Trim: 8.125” x 10.875” • Bleed: 8.375” x 11.125” • Job# 158452

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founder’s letter

w

Multifaceted adj 1. (clothing, personal arts and crafts / jewelry) (of a gem) having many facets 2. having many aspects, abilities, etc.

ith this issue focusing heavily on accessories and jewelry (and, yes, right in time to start making your holiday list!), I can’t help but think of multifaceted gems. Of course, I am speaking of baubles and glittering pieces, but I am also alluding to this month’s profiles. Cover girl and Oscar-winning actress, Marion Cotillard is a woman

of many dimensions. Not just a pretty face, Cotillard has such talent that in every role, she so believably becomes her character—whether Édith Piaf in La Vie En Rose, Adriana in Midnight in Paris or Miranda in The Dark Knight Rises (to name a few). When you meet her in person, however, you are surprised at how soft and sweet she really is. We were thrilled to feature her in autumn’s strong, sleek silhouettes at a spot in Malibu that seemed on top of the world…exactly where Cotillard is in her career. Again, she steps outside herself to portray a modern heroine in our portfolio. World-renowned artist Jeff Koons continues to develop an oeuvre that is literally larger

than life. Over decades, his paintings and sculptures have grown while staying personal. C Magazine was the exclusive outlet that got to be a “fly on the wall” during a very cool discussion between Koons and MOCA’s Jeffrey Deitch, presented by Louis Vuitton. We take you inside Eli and Edythe Broad’s breathtaking home for one unforgettable salon. Ann Getty is a San Francisco doyenne through and through. Besides being philanthropic, she envisions and creates the most beautiful homes. C was proud to showcase the interior designer’s classic Pacific Heights abode in our premiere issue in 2005, and we have been excited to track her vast accomplishments as years pass. She releases a book this autumn that encapsulates every facet of her myriad talents. We present a residence in the Berkeley hills that is warm, homey yet utterly chic…just like Getty herself. And, coming back to our focus: jewels! We sure have loads of them in this issue. Our military-inspired fashion story, the best baubles of the season, and the latest in accessories news will have you covered head to toe, sparkling

Jennifer Hale Founder & editorial Director

We’d love to hear from you

AzAbrA PhotogrAPhy

as ever…from the inside out!

Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 22 november 2012

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©2012 Harry Winston, Inc. harrywinston.com

HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION HW_HighJewelry_Cmagazine_Nov.indd 1

TM

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C

people who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite california places

Lydia Hearst “I love the military trend,” says Hollywood model-turned-actress Lydia Hearst, who poses in this issue’s fashion portfolio [“Highly Decorated,” p.118]. “If it’s done right, you get ANN GETTY: DREW ALTIZER. LYDIA HEARST: VIJAT MOHINDRA

that hard-edged elegance...so chic.” The Connecticut native is stationed in the Dominican Republic shooting Cabin Fever: Patient Zero. She also just shot the Miss Me denim campaign, launching in January. C SPOTS • Griffith Park before sunset • Sushi Park for the traditional Nigiri • Sonya Dakar in B.H. is the best facialist

Ann Getty “I am thrilled about the photography, research and Diane [Dorrans Saeks’] text—all wonderful,” says interior

Matthias Vriens-McGrath

designer/philanthropist Ann Getty

“Marion [Cotillard] was a joy to work with and an absolute natural beauty,” says Matthias Vriens-McGrath [“New Heights,” p.100]. “She loved most the picture that made her gain 50 pounds on my iPhone ‘fat booth!’” Between shoots, the photographer and his husband, Donovan, are designing a new collection of shirts for their company BL33N. C SPOTS • Harbin Hot Springs

[“Getty Fabulous,” p.108], who is currently promoting her new monograph and preparing to host events for the Gladstone Institutes and the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African-American History and

• Lead Apron Bookstore • Food+Lab cafe on Santa Monica Boulevard

Culture. C SPOTS • S.F.’s AT&T Park • Wheatland, my home in the country • Spruce and Delancey Streets

Kris Zero “Taking the strongest part of the fall collections and seeing them come to life, military-style, was a blast,” says Kris Zero of styling Lydia Hearst in “Highly Decorated” [p.118]. “Outerwear can be so sexy; it’s your protective shell and first impression.” C SPOTS • Hiking, foraging, camping at Kearsarge Pass • Persimmons are one of my favorite things in fall; Axe does an especially good dessert with them • Drives: Highway 1 in Big Sur, Mulholland at night

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C

people who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite california places

Francesca Tolot “As talented as she is beautiful. That’s what makes Marion [Cotillard] an icon,” says Italian makeup artist Francesca Tolot of this month’s cover subject [“New Heights,” p.100]. “Inner beauty and character are as important to me as outer beauty. Marion is the perfect combination of both.” Tolot has worked with everyone from Elizabeth Taylor to Beyoncé. C SPOTS • Pizzeria Il Fico because it reminds me of home • The rolling hills around Los Olivos and Santa Ynez; every day spent there adds weeks to your life • The Getty gives us great exhibitions in a spectacular setting

Deborah Schoeneman clear blue,” says author Deborah Schoeneman, who penned “New Heights” [p.100]. Schoeneman (pictured here with her three-week-old son, Max) is a writer on the HBO show “Girls.” C SPOTS • Dancing at Melvyn’s in Palm Springs • Beverly Hot Springs • Paradise Cove in Malibu

Paul Dyer

Cameron Silver

“Even after living in San Francisco 15 years, I still enjoy a new perspective,” says lensman Paul Dyer [“Air Apparent,”

“This book took five

p.75]. “Alex Chases’ apartment had fantastic 180-degree

years from start to finish.

views of the city.” An architectural photographer, Dyer

I guess we could call

is shooting Castello di Casole in Tuscany, Italy this month.

Decades the book that

C SPOTS • Crissy Field is my favorite place to unwind

took half a decade

• Tomales Bay for fresh oysters • The art galleries at 49 Geary

to write!” says C

Street—when I want a break from commercial photography

Contributing Editor

CAMERON SILVER: COURTESY OF DECADES. DEBORAH SCHOENEMAN: LAURA LAYERA

“Marion Cotillard is so chic and so French. Her eyes are the most amazing

Cameron Silver [“Something Old, Something New,” p.95], star of an upcoming show on Bravo. C SPOTS • Sunday Hollywood Farmers’ Market • Sunset hikes through Griffith Park • Alegria for pollo en mole

C 26 november 2012

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C what’s hot

Hold On

Parabellum’s new line hits the streets

A WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON

mid scattered piles of responsibly sourced bison hides in their Hollywood loft, Mike Feldman and Jason Jones launched Parabellum in 2007, crafting unisex leather accessories. The supple belts (reinforced with bullet-proof Kevlar), bags, iPhone and laptop cases feature high-tech ceramic hardware that feels like glass but is so strong that the duo’s supplier also produces equipment for NASA spacecrafts. Colette, MaxďŹ eld and Union quickly snapped up the line as big design houses scrambled to emulate the exquisite construction—but to no avail. Collaborations with Oliver Peoples, and Blackman Cruz followed, and, after years in development, the duo unveils a women’s handbag line this fall. “There’s a lot of intent,â€? says Jones of the Emmeline Tote and the Medicine Woman styles. “We thought about what would be the best thing we could make without any [ďŹ nancial or material] restrictions. And this is it.â€? Available at MaxďŹ eld; parabellumcollection.com°ĂŠU

EDITED BY KELSEY McKINNON

Medicine Woman in violet, $1,950.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOR WEIZMAN NOVEMBER 2012

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C 29

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what’s hot

A Brunello Cucinelli display at Wilkes Bashford.

Dear Diary... A ďŹ rst-hand account of a career spanning 20 years at the top of the fashion industry, Kate: The Kate Moss Book features photography from the best in the biz: Hedi Slimane, Juergen Teller, Mario Testino, David Sims and Mario Sorrenti. Moss also digs into her own archives for many never-before-seen images.

SAN FRANCISCO

Welcome Home

A

fter a year of painstaking renovations, Wilkes Bashford opens the doors to a polished townhouse with a grand stone foyer, luxury shop-in-shops and a slew of new designers on offer (including Lanvin, Rag and Bone, Akris and Tod’s). Areas throughout the seven oors make guests feel at ease with a lounge on each level, a penthouse bar and heritage photos on the walls. Just don’t call it a department store. 375 Sutter St., S.F., 415-986-4380; wilkesbashford.com.

OUT OF THIS WORLD This month, De Beers showcases its Imaginary Nature collection, an exquisite, eight-piece offering including a 16.38-carat, pear-cut diamond. 401 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-228-1900.

The Unveiling earrings, price upon request.

Après Ski

LOS ANGELES

Like camping in Lake Tahoe without the risk of bears (and with central heat), the modern, hipster retreat Basecamp Hotel is situated ďŹ ve minutes between the lake shore and the Heavenly gondola. Rooms from $89; basecamphotels.com.

LOOKING SHARP “California is the constant undertone to everything we do,� says Laurel Canyon-based designer Rozae Nichols of Clover Canyon’s autumn laser prints and mixed patterns. Likewise, look for this month’s swim line debut. Available at Saks Fifth Avenue; clovercanyon.com.

King rooms feature art by Wendy MacNaughton.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND KELSEY MCKINNON

$85, Rizzoli.

LAKE TAHOE

Aquarium Puzzle dress, $242.

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In 1821, Nicolas Rieussec changed watchmaking forever with the invention of the first chronograph. Today, the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic is a tribute to 190 years of the chronograph’s technical evolution. 43 mm stainless steel case, skelleted horns and sapphire crystal back, black calfskin strap with white stitching. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.


what’s hot

House Wares This season, Italian luxury label Bottega Veneta reinterprets its signature Intrecciato leather basketweave with eco-friendly recycled jersey in baby blue, pewter gray, black and soft coral. Want to know more? A richly illustrated book ($100, Rizzoli) documents the house’s masterful craftsmanship. bottegaveneta.com.

FROM LEFT Krim

SACRAMENTO Freedom From Want, 1943.

STARS AND STRIPES Originally published in the March 6, 1943 issue of The Saturday Evening Post, Norman Rockwell’s Freedom From Want would eventually become one of the most powerful patriotic images— almost equivalent to the ag. This month, in the state’s capital city, a bounty of Rockwell’s famous works will be on display at The Crocker Museum in an exhibition of “American Chronicles.â€? Nov. 10-Feb. 3; crockerartmuseum.org.

Intrecciato Jersey Duo bag, $1,880, 310-858-6533. The book features a look from Cruise 2010.

STERLING REPUTATION

Ring, $990.

OVER THE TOP Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were attracted to a Sicilian baroque aesthetic for Dolce & Gabbana’s fall eyewear and jewelry. The sunglasses boast opulent gold ourishes, while the Mamma line references ready-to-wear’s needlepoint orals with roses hand-carved from Elatius pink coral. dolcegabbana.it. FROM LEFT Coral and yellow gold earrings, price upon request. Sunglasses, $295.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND KELSEY MCKINNON. ROCKWELL: NORMAN ROCKWELL MUSEUM COLLECTIONS

With silver collection Pomellato 67, the Milanese jewelry house honors its founding year with a fresh line-up of cabochon quartz dome rings, link chain bracelets with marcasite accents, and safari-inspired claw pendants. $395-$4,640; pomellato.com.

C 32 NOVEMBER 2012

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what’s hot RIGHT

LOS ANGELES

POP ROCKS Jumbosized Victorian settings are one of the tell-tales of L.A.-based Rona Pfeiffer’s new collection, Audrey. $800-$20,000; available at Elizabeth Charles, S.F. and N.B.; ronapfeifferjewelry.com. SECOND NATURE

Street Savvy

OAKLAND

Rick Caruso on his ever expanding empire

For the ďŹ fth anniversary of East Bay’s eco-chic emporium Atomic Garden, owners Jamie Kidson and Adrienne Armstrong recently unveiled an equally charming online boutique proffering all types of fair-trade products: Binchotan charcoal water puriďŹ ers, organic blankets from Point Reyes-based Coyuchi and S.F.’s Cloud of Protection aircleansing oils. atomicgar denoakland.com.

Aerin Lauder

Caruso modeled The Grove after historic L.A. buildings. BELOW Rick Caruso.

T

DOMESTIC GODDESS Cementing her status as a global style authority with the launch of her eponymous makeup line, Aerin Lauder expands the label’s offerings this month with candles and home objects. In collaboration with Nest Fragrances, distinctive hand-blown vessels resemble her personal collection of antique and modern Venetian glass. aerin.com.

he Grove receives a staggering 18 million visitors a year. That’s more than the Great Wall of China and the Eiffel Tower. The European-style outdoor shopping center opened 10 years ago on the dusty corner of Fairfax and Third streets. “The Farmers Market was long forgotten,â€? recalls retail magnate Rick Caruso. “The Grove really kicked off a rejuvenation of this area.â€? Impeccably coiffed, the second-generation Angeleno has since brought his alluring concept of shoppable city streets to nine other SoCal communities. And this year, Caruso AfďŹ liated broke ground on the ďŹ rm’s ďŹ rst primarily residential development, a sleek, eight-story glass tower with classic Modernist curves called 8500 Burton, about which Caruso says, “George Jetson should be landing on that building.â€? It’s just a few blocks away from The Grove’s competition. He grins when the Beverly Center is mentioned. “Oh, we want to help them out.â€? They are going to need a lot of help. By this spring, The Grove will have added retail magnets Topshop and J. Crew Collection. Caruso is also introducing local retailer carts for the holidays (Clare Vivier, Heidi Merrick). “You have everybody here. It’s a cross-section of the world,â€? Caruso notes. “It’s almost like you’re living in a movie, with this life going on all around you.â€?

WRITTEN BY JADE CHANG AND KELSEY MCKINNON. CARUSO: CYRILLE MARGARIT/ARTMAN AGENCY

Sapphire Flower ring, $5,300.

Aerin candles, $58 each.

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REINVENT YOURSELF

RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 967A Every woman has a Rendez-Vous, with herself. The Rendez-Vous Night & Day timepiece is entirely crafted and gemset at the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. Its automatic movement keeps pace with the constant changes in a woman’s life, as she perpetually reinvents herself. Rendez-Vous is more than a watch, it is a state of mind.

YOU DESERVE A REA L WATCH Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutiques Los Angeles – 9490 B Brighton Way, Los Angeles, CA 90210 – 310 734 0525 Boca Raton – 312 Plaza Real, Boca Raton, FL 33432 – 561 368 3866 Opening Soon – Las Vegas – South Coast Plaza

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what’s hot one to watch

CloCkwise from ToP lefT an “out of

africa” affair. gold foiled fruits and carved pumpkins. Persimmon, pomegranate and mint salad. serrano chili pepper simple syrup favors with spicy margarita recipes. Black forest layer cake. amy Blessing and annie Campbell. Pine cone tied muslin place settings.

Party Girl From appetizers to the after-party, Annie Campbell specializes in special occasions BY melissa goldsTein

tips & tricks Thanksgiving To keep the bird from drying out, either roast two small turkeys or cook the parts separately. Pre-fÊTe Leave an hour to get ready with a “dresser” (a cocktail for the dressing room). good sPiriTs mix a pitcher of drinks ahead of time—nobody wants to play bartender all night. Take five The magical ingredients that are sure to make any meal better: butter, buttermilk, bacon, marshmallows and maldon salt. Ta da! Homemade gravlax couldn’t be simpler and always impresses. Crashers Prepare enough for the uninvited guest...the more the merrier.

ATMOSPHERE: DAVID JONES (4). FOOD: ANNIE CAMPBELL (2). BOUQUET: LAUREN ROSS

A

nnie Campbell was working as an actress in L.A. when she got her big break in 2010. Childhood pal and event designer Amy Blessing had a friend who needed help with a dinner party. “So Amy says, ‘Oh, hire Annie. She has a catering business!’” recounts the Portland native. A lifelong cook but admittedly not a professional, Campbell whipped up an expert menu of minted curry pea soup and tomato bread pudding. Three years later, her eponymous Laurel Canyon-based company has become a thriving family affair: Campbell, at the helm, designs and executes original courses; neighbor Blessing co-conspires on all things decor; and their respective husbands, writer Greg Murnion and cinematographer David Jones, stand in as bartender, music consultant and house photographer. Après Fête chronicles the group’s efforts in glowy blog detail, from mint mojitos and saffron rosewater ice cream, at Jenni Kayne’s Moroccan-themed 30th birthday, to lingonberry cocktails, dill-flecked buttered egg noodles and Hansel and Gretel-worthy gingerbread houses at a Swedish Christmas feast. Irrespective of themes, mix and match crystal, fireside s’mores and parlor games (Celebrity is a favorite), Campbell points to one crucial ingredient: “You have to have a couple of funny storytellers. It doesn’t matter how good the food is or how beautiful the table is—if you take it all too seriously, then you’re part of an art project. At the end of the day, it’s about bringing people together.” apresfete.blogspot.com. •

C 36 november 2012

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CLAIRE JULIEN 17 < ACTRESS < HOLLYWOOD HILLS

Coming to a theater near you: The daughter of Oscar-winning cinematographer Wally PďŹ ster follows up her on-screen debut (The Dark Knight Rises) with the SoďŹ a Coppola ick The Bling Ring. VIBE A little rock ’n roll and a little beachy. All in all, it’s total Cali-girl style. HANGOUT SurďŹ ng at Zuma, Bay Cities Deli in Santa Monica, SugarďŹ sh in Brentwood, In-N-Out Burger and I love hiking Runyon Canyon at sunset. INSPIRATION My dad. CO-STAR Michael Caine on the set of The Dark Knight Rises—I was blown away by some of the most truthful, raw acting I’ve ever seen. MY CALIFORNIA The contrast of old-school (and often grungy) Hollywood with the glitzy, camera-hungry Hollywood, the chill westside and the escape of Malibu is what makes this crazy city my home. •

EDITED BY KENDALL CONRAD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CAMERON

Monique Lhuillier dress, $2,890. Citrine By The Stones earrings, $255, Roseark. Tom Binns Design rings, $115 each.

FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN. HAIR: CHRIS MCMILLAN. MAKEUP: SAGE MAITRI FOR THE WALL GROUP. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

girl

C 38 NOVEMBER 2012

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Sizing up California’s glamorous scene one bash at a time Edited by Phoebe Doheney

Paul and Nancy Pelosi

Rick and Kathy Hilton

SAN FRANCISCO OPERA Ken Fulk, Denise Hale

Alexis Traina, Dede Wilsey

Deepa Pakianathan

The S.F. Opera opened its 90th season at the War Memorial Opera House with plenty of scene stealers: Deepa Pakianathan in custom Andrew Gn, Charlotte Shultz in Carolina Herrera and Denise Hale wearing custom Ralph Rucci.

Stephanie Ejabat

QUEEN OF THE SCENE

Sonya Molodetskaya

George and Charlotte Shultz

Karen Caldwell

Crystal Lourd, Hillary Thomas, Jenny Belushi

Olya Dzilikhova

FENDI To honor 15 years of the Baguette, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Tommy Perse welcomed a slew of Fendi followers to Maxfield with the first domestic Baguettemania pop-up shop. Linda Monaskanian, Maximillian Chow

Mena Suvari Rita Ora

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PC Valmorbida, Silvia Venturini Fendi

Lydia Hearst

OPERA: DREW ALTIZER. FENDI: DONATO SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE (3); STEFANIE KEENAN/ WIREIMAGE (2). SKETCH: STÉPHANE ROLLAND. RITA ORA: LESTER COHEN/WIREIMAGE

Pop princess Rita Ora dazzled at the MTV Video Music Awards in a Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture white jersey dress with silicone fur sprouting dramatically at the shoulders.

9/26/12 7:03 PM

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C

reports social front from the

Dylan Lauren, Elizabeth Berkley

LACMA LACMA’s Costume Council hosted a special preview screening of Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel at the Bing Theater. A Q&A with Director Lisa Immordino Vreeland in conversation with Booth Moore, Los Angeles Times fashion critic, followed.

Alexandra Von Furstenberg

Andie Macdowell

Katherine Ross

Candy and fashion royal, Dylan Lauren opened the ďŹ rst West Coast outpost of Dylan’s Candy Bar at The Grove to Janet sweet success. Chocolate Jackson fountain, anyone?

Todd Thompson and Giada De Laurentiis

Ty Burrell, Julie Bowen

AUDI / DEREK LAM Audi and fashion designer Derek Lam kicked-off Emmy week with a star-ďŹ lled fĂŞte at Cecconi’s in West Hollywood. Nominees Julie Bowen, Melissa McCarthy and Ty Burrell were all in attendance.

Alexander Vreeland and Lisa Immordino Vreeland, Bent-Jorgen Perlmutt Lisa Eisner

Kiernan Shipka

Rumer Willis, Jayson Blair

Derek Lam

Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor, Jeanne Lee

FASHION’S NIGHT OUT

LACMA: ANDREAS BRANCH/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM. DYLAN’S: JOHN SCIULLI/WIREIMAGE. AUDI: MICHAEL BUCKNER/WIREIMAGE (2). CHARLEY GALLAY/WIREIMAGE (2). CURVE: DREW ALTIZER. FASHION’S NIGHT OUT, SATINE: HUNTER FOX. KENDALL CONRAD: STEPHEN SIMONS

DYLAN’S CANDY BAR

Kristine Miller, John McIlwee

Alex Israel, Gelila Puck

Kendall Conrad, Rachel Roberts Barbara Brown, Cara Connor

For Fashion’s Night Out, L.A.’s “it� girls dashed from Satine in WeHo to Kendall Conrad in Venice...and everywhere in between.

CURVE

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Karen Marley

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Liat Baruch, Nevena Borissova

Nevena Borissova invited Curve’s S.F. devotees to toast the shop’s one-year anniversary on Fillmore— and to unveil the new Bespoke shopping service.

9/27/12 10:57 AM



C Trunk Show PROMOTION

FA LL FOR FASHION

DE BEERS DIAMOND JEWELLERS Talisman Large Diamond Medal in pink gold, $21,500. South Coast Plaza, Ste. 2003, Costa Mesa, 714-641-5820; debeers.com.

STEPHEN WEBSTER Deco Haze large hexagonal 18-karat white gold earrings, set with black diamonds and Green Agate Crystal Haze, $6,400. 202 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 855-551-5577.

JACOB & CO. Agate and diamond chandelier earrings, $33,100. Westime, 254 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-271-0000; jacobandco.com.

POMELLATO 67 Pomellato 67 necklace in silver and marcasite, $3,190. 320 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-858-1300; select Saks Fifth Avenue stores, 877-551-7257.

JOE’S JEANS Leather Skinny in camel, $695. 8432 Melrose Pl., Los Angeles, 323-944-0656; joesjeans.com.

DAVID YURMAN Large Labyrinth Enhancer in sterling silver with citrine and diamonds, $2,950; Large oval link chain in sterling silver, $825. 371 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-888-8618; davidyurman.com.

DIOR TIMEPIECES TUMI Bedford Stamford Weekender in metallic calf’s hair, $2,495. 430 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-623-1186; tumi.com.

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Dior VIII Grand Bal Drape, $32,500. 309 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700; High Glow Jewelers, 18644 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia, 562-402-0112.

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C fashion A layered variety from Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, David Yurman and Eddie Borgo. Fendi shirt.

Arm’s Length STYLED BY KRIS ZERO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

Dare to wear a mix of sparkling metals and bold textures

EDITED BY SAMANTHA TRAINA

PHOTOGRAPHED BY wILLIAMS + HIRAKAwA november 2012

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fashion FROM LEFT Burberry

Prorsum top coat, $3,995, and bag, $2,195.

Le Box clutch, $495; Avedon, 310-8881899.

BOXED UP L.A. accessories designer Kelly Locke goes green this season with a new eco-conscious bag line. Our favorite? A metallic gold, disco-style clutch. kellylocke.com. Asymmetric Bezel earrings, $7,220.

Necklace, $1,550, and earrings, price upon request.

SPOT ON Burberry Brit’s clean-lined biker jackets, knit day dresses and chunky, doublebreasted cardigans have arrived at its new boutique in WestďŹ eld Valley Fair. 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd., Santa Clara; burberry.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND ANNINA MISLIN. BURBERRY RUNWAY: MAURITS SILLEM. MAIYET RUNWAY: DAN & CORINA LECCA

SILICON VALLEY

BEVERLY HILLS

CHINA GIRL While British designer Stephen Webster selected the Chinese New Year as the motif behind fall’s Enter The Dragon collection, his rock-glam still shines through in fanciful cocktail rings exclusive to the Beverly Hills agship. stephenwebster.com.

Otherworldly

Skewing modern—albeit with a classic silhouette—Maiyet works in partnership with Nest, a nonproďŹ t dedicated to training and developing craftsmen around the world. The brand now dives into ďŹ ne jewelry with diamond chokers and edgy labradorite rings. “We discovered remarkable artisans in Jaipur who specialized in gold-casting and hand-setting gems, which led us to expand,â€? says Co-Founder and President Kristy Caylor. “The regions with a rich heritage in jewelry were [also] interesting from a social perspective.â€? Exclusively at Barneys New York; maiyet.com.

C 52 NOVEMBER 2012

THE C LIST VANESSA TRAINA’S CALIFORNIA The pairing seemed inevitable between longtime friends and colleagues: Parisian jewelry designer Gaia Repossi drew from the avant-garde aesthetic of S.F.-raised stylist and muse Vanessa Traina to create Forçat, a capsule collection comprised of black silver cuffs and necklaces made from woven silver chains. • HENNESSEY + INGALLS Has beautiful art, photography and fashion books. 310-458-9074. • POST RANCH INN For a romantic getaway. 888-524-4787. • TACOS GARCIA TRUCK (AT PANCHA’S) Has the best ďŹ sh tacos. 707-980-4896.

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Vanessa Traina and Gaia Repossi in Forçat. Barneys New York, 310-276-4400.

9/27/12 10:45 AM



fashion

Jessica Winzelberg wearing her own designs; Lantern earrings, $2,195.

STARBURST

GILT COMPLEX

Chanel launches the 80th-anniversary haute joaillerie collection, 1932, based on Gabrielle “Cocoâ€? Chanel’s timeless designs and motifs: ribbons, feathers, stars, and introducing lions to the mix. Many of the 80 pieces have a bold, cosmic appeal, like the striking 14.8-carat diamond Comète shooting star necklaces. chanel.com.

A recent trip to Marrakesh set the tone for San Francisco jewelry designer Jessica Winzelberg’s Lantern collection, a 16-piece line-up of earrings sculpted with antique Moroccan gold, and rings accented with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies. $195-$2,495; jessicawinzelberg.com.

Cosmos ring.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND ANNINA MISLIN. WINZELBERG: LISA WISEMAN

SAN FRANCISCO

BEVERLY HILLS

FRESHLY PLUCKED For this season’s Nature Collection, jeweler Martin Katz has produced 15 odes to ora and fauna, including yellow sapphire-adorned tulip brooches and starďŹ sh earrings with Tahitian pearls. martinkatz.com. Ivy clip-on earrings.

Hail Hipsters

I

n honor of Opening Ceremony’s 10-year anniversary this fall, L.A.-based founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon (also creative directors for Kenzo) will launch the retailer’s ďŹ rst handbag lineâ€”ďŹ ve designs in vibrant tangerine suede and patent leather. Terry Richardson has contributed photography for an accompanying book ($65, Rizzoli). $450-$800; openingceremony.us.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

EASY DOES IT

Cross Panel dress, $390, and red leather bag, $775.

Frequent collaborators ChloĂŤ Sevigny and Spike Jonze appear in the book.

If you’re looking for relaxed SoCal separates, L.A. label Joie is still the place. Stop by the brand’s ďŹ rst West Hollywood outpost (designed by Ryan Korban), opening this month, and scoop up a silk shirt, stretch twill jeans, or on-trend smoking slippers sure to last all season. 8414 Melrose Ave., WeHo; joie.com.

Aimee sweater, $198.

C 54 NOVEMBER 2012

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fashion

Bianca Jagger, 1974.

FROM LEFT Emporio Armani slippers, $695. Altuzarra belt, price upon request. David Yurman necklace. ChloĂŠ bag.

Disco Fever Flashy gold accents and knee-high boots add sultry ’70s appeal

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT

BIANCA JAGGER: PA PHOTOS/LANDOV. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

Ralph Lauren

Solange AzaguryPartridge necklace, price upon request. Salvatore Ferragamo cuff, $7,875. Vhernier ring, price upon request. Gucci bracelet, $1,050. Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra boots, $2,124, net-a-porter.com. Diane von Furstenberg by H.Stern earrings, $6,500. Michael Kors sunglasses, $205. Louis Vuitton earrings, $865. Giambattista Valli heels, $1,080, Bergdorf Goodman. Tom Ford clutch, $1,360.

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fashion

Enamel and rose-cut diamond vanity case, circa 1924.

NIGHT VISION

Cartier’s rich heritage sparks a glittering new collection of evening bags

Crocodile minaudière case with diamond and onyx clasp, price upon request, 714-540-8231.

BEVERLY HILLS

IN FULL BLOOM With Belgian designer Raf Simons now front and center as artistic director, Christian Dior forges ahead with the reopening of its Beverly Hills boutique. The fresh interior is a mix of 18th-century detailing with modern elements such as a Rob Wynne mirror glass installation in the ceiling of the handbag salon and a stainless steel Johnny Swing couch. 309 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-859-4700; dior.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY. CARTIER (5): COURTESY OF CARTIER

C

ountless iconic masterpieces have been conceived in the atelier above Cartier’s Paris agship—opened by Alfred Cartier in 1899—from the famed 69.42-carat, pear-shaped diamond Richard Burton gave to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969 to the audacious gold crocodile necklace commissioned by the late Mexican actress MarĂ­a FĂŠlix in 1975. Cartier’s ďŹ rst handbag collection debuted in the early 1900s with spun gold and pleated mesh purses and bejeweled minaudières—a category relaunched in 2007 with its classic Marcello day handbag. From the beginning, the brand excelled in fashionable goods, including the daring Flapper vanity case built to ďŹ t only a lipstick, comb and cigarettes. This season, the house continues to give stylish ladies something to hold onto with an expanded set of offerings inspired by the past. “Today’s woman still wants the same thing,â€? says Director of Leather Creation Marlin Yuson. “The designs are more contemporary and graphic, but the spirit is still very much about a beautiful object that a woman covets.â€? Three ultra-sleek styles—box-shape and elongated clutches, and evening purses—are clad in materials of decadence: black crocodile and python skins, satin with silver silk-thread embroidery, and a hard guillochĂŠ shell. The pièce de rĂŠsistance: a solid-silver Panthère clasp, speckled with black lacquer or onyx, and brilliant-cut diamonds, and framed by two Russian-faceted cabochons in chrysoprase, onyx or carnelian. “For Cartier, evening bags are like jewelry,â€? adds Yuson. “[This is] something unique, timeless and truly glamorous.â€? V>Ă€ĂŒÂˆiĂ€°Vœ“°ĂŠUĂŠ

Backstage at Paris Haute Couture. LEFT Bagatelle ring, price upon request.

C 58 NOVEMBER 2012

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fashion Signature pieces include a shark tooth necklace, price upon request; inďŹ nity ring, $2,400; six-sided stud earrings, $1,000; diamond wrap-wing ring, $6,000, Neiman Marcus, 310-550-5900.

Anita Ko in a Salvatore Ferragamo dress and embroidered belt.

Time to Shine

FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN. ANITA KO PIECES: COURTESY OF ANITA KO (4). ARRANGEMENTS: BOTANY FLOWERS, 310-394-0358. ACRYLIC TRAYS: ALEXANDRA VON FURSTENBERG, 310-777-0253. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

FROM TOP

Inside jewelry designer Anita Ko’s Beverly Hills studio, plus what’s in store BY CAROLINE CAGNEY PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLE LAMOTTE

T

he L.A. woman is laid-back and casual, but she also craves that element of sparkle,â€? says ďŹ ne jewelry designer Anita Ko. Since rolling out her namesake line in 2006 with a diamond circle necklace carried at MaxďŹ eld (which sold to Cameron Diaz, no less), the PaciďŹ c Palisades-born tastemaker has garnered a fan-base of fashion aristocrats—among them Jacqui Getty and Daphne Guinness—in search of elegance with edge: rose gold Spike bracelets, black diamond Snake rings, white-gold and pavĂŠ diamond Wings necklaces. She crafts designs from her expansive, art-ďŹ lled Beverly Hills studio, where paintings by JosĂŠ ParlĂĄ and Phil Frost, and a teddy bear dipped in tar by Mattia Biagi, hang in the lounge.

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Ko’s latest venture is a six-piece capsule collection for modernchic womenswear line Tibi. “I really wanted the look to be beautiful but without fuss. Clean and luxurious— just like Amy Smilovic [Tibi’s designer and her client],â€? Ko says of the white-diamond bar earrings and dagger necklaces, which are currently available at Tibi’s N.Y. agship. For something a bit more exclusive, Ko will soon debut a line of one-of-a-kind diamond collectibles. “I’m inspired by everyone from the matriarch in Bel Air to the ’80s punk-rock kids I knew growing up here; [these] are going to have quite an impact.â€? >Â˜ÂˆĂŒ>ÂŽÂœ°Vœ“°ĂŠU

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Christian Dior Fine Jewelry earrings.

One-of-a-kind pieces for the individualist: conďŹ dent cuffs, chic drop earrings and high-wattage rings

Harry Winston bracelet. David Yurman earrings.

Cartier ring.

Cindy Chao necklace.

Pomellato ring.

C 62 NOVEMBER 2012

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TXEMA YESTE/TRUNK ARCHIVE. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

Verdura cuff.

9/21/12 5:04 PM


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Accessories Antiques Art Beauty Best of L.A. Beverly HillS Books Boutiques CAliforniA Culture Design DeSigner Dining FAshion film Furniture Gourmet HeAltH HollywooD home Decor hoteLs Jewelry loS angeleS music

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C beauty

Flawless Fresh radiance for any occasion “This look is inspired by the new nude,” says Dior Celebrity Makeup Artist Ricky Wilson, L.A. native, of the visage he helped create for the house’s fall runway show. How to get the look: smooth skin, sculpted brows and a naturally pink lip. “My rule is: The more skincare you do, the less makeup you have to use.” dior.com. • edited by jenny murray november 2012

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beauty Karl for Shu palette, $65, and nail color, $18.

Beet, açai berry and turmeric powders in Groovy Greens.

LOS ANGELES

CLEAN UP

The Whole Body Method Nutritionals’ Feeling Groovy cleanse employs powder blends (add to your liquid of choice) that are chock full of Chinese and Ayurvedic herbs and superfoods that balance the body’s deďŹ ciencies, while ďŹ ber and protein (apple, axseed and peas) keep hunger at bay. From $95/7-day program; 323-369-1114.

DRAWN TOGETHER

Designer Karl Lagerfeld joins forces with Shu Uemura (whose eyeliners he has used to sketch for decades) to unveil a limited-edition holiday collection marrying French air with Tokyo pop in shades like soft Parisienne Pink and Luxe Burgundy. shuuemura-usa.com.

Follow Your Nose From bold red pepper, Japanese basil and saffron to heady jasmine, Turkish rose and black violet, spice up your November with this batch of unique scents CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Florabotanica

by Balenciaga, Eau de Parfum (3.4 oz), $125, neimanmarcus.com. Granada by Oscar de la Renta, $150 (3.4 oz), saksďŹ fthavenue.com. Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy, $65 (1.7 oz), neimanmarcus.com. Volutes by Diptyque, $88, (1.7 oz), Diptyque, S.F. Black Saffron by Byredo, $220 (3.4 oz), byredo.com.

Now Open

L

uxury U.K. beauty retailer SPACE NK has revealed a branch in the Marin Country Mart. Find cult favorites like Oribe and Tata Harper. 2011 Larkspur Landing Cir., Larkspur, 415-419-5904; spacenk.com. ĂŠ UĂŠ Hair stylist Neil Weisberg (Neil George) and colorist Tracey Cunningham (Byron & Tracey) are taking appointments as of this month at their new Beverly Hills salon MĂˆCHE. 8822 Burton Way. B.H., 310-278-8930.ĂŠUĂŠ SOULCYCLE ventures to the beach next month with a Santa Monica outpost—locations in Marin County and S.F. are not far behind. (Or, purchase the brand’s stationary bike for your at-home gym.) 120 Wilshire Blvd., S.M.; soul-cycle.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER. GROOVY GREENS: SHANE O’DONNELL

$49, wholebodymethodnutritionals.com.

SoulCycle bike, $2,200. Space NK at Marin Country Mart.

FROM LEFT

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A view of the Grace Cathedral spire from the dining room. A cluster of traditionally handcrafted silver pagodas, collected in Rangoon, Burma. Hermès Toucan settings. Glasses from Sue Fisher King. Tiffany Audubon sterling silverware.

november 2012

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Booked solid a year out at his dual beauty salons in Union Square and Silicon Valley, stylist Alex Chases exercises politesse and intense focus as devoted clients flock to him for perfect blonde tones and delicate ombré effects. At the end of the day, Chases retires to his serene ninth-floor apartment overlooking the Bay and downtown San Francisco. The two-bedroom Nob Hill flat, in a clean-lined Modernist building, has been cleared of extraneous flourishes and color during his decade in residence. White rules. “For me, less is more. It’s wonderful in the evening to have this tranquil retreat waiting,” says Chases. “There’s no distraction, no clutter, and no sounds except the bells of Grace Cathedral chiming the hour. I can dream, read, study and clear my head.” The space has been systematically edited without the assistance of a decorator; Chases is a master of composition and no stranger to design showrooms. Relics of his previous passions— coral Fortuny fabrics and antique Burmese cinnabar lacquer—have been pared down and replaced with a fresh tableau: sculptural fROm ABOvE chairs, a lacquered Chinoiserie coffee table and lavish silk taffeta curtains. lEft Antique While spaces pay full attention to sparkling cityscapes, every detail appears florentine marble spheres, in high relief. The La Jolla native’s collection of rare design books is corralled obelisks and in a foyer cabinet. Hydrangeas and ranunculus are white, naturally. urns; art is by lynn Hershman. A consummate entertainer, he favors an eclectic table, especially Hermès Alex Chases. Toucan place settings for dinner parties. The roster of clients and guests the curtains in the living includes art philanthropist Frances Bowes, San Francisco Chief of Protocol room are ivory Charlotte Shultz, animal healthcare activist Vanessa Getty, social empress silk taffeta. Denise Hale, as well as S.F. and Silicon Valley friends, and visiting royalty. “I first met Alex when he was 19 and an apprentice at I. Magnin,” says Hale. “We’ve been friends ever since. He’s a true gentleman and the most caring and considerate host. Alex entertains impeccably at his apartment, and it is always a delight to be there.” “I have no plans to change this paled-down decor. I’m not craving color,” says Chases. “And in the early morning, it’s like walking in a cloud.” •

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TOP AnD PORTRAiT: BRAD KniPSTEin. LEfT (2) : PAUL DYER

In the living room, Casamance brushed cotton/ linen graces custom-crafted chairs, a sofa and a chaise longue.

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home Kristen Caissie

los angeles

Full Deck

eCho park

Over the MOOn

Victorian birch, bay leaf, and cedar on velvet ribbon.

S

ince 2010, the wild, yet studied aesthetic of Moon Canyon Design Co. from Kristen Caissie and Amy Lipnis has adorned sets, events and weddings for L.A.’s fashionably cool. As late autumn arrives, Caissie— the styling duo’s floral end—is most excited about using goblets as romantic vessels; branches; and crafting lowprofile, lush garlands on tables. “You don’t have to use fresh cuts. Leaves dry really nicely and will keep throughout the season.” 617-304-9949; mooncanyondesign.com.

los angeles

A burst of crimped paper petals.

ROOM TO GROW “Now I can go big,” explains President and Creative Director Heather Pando of Little World Design’s new atelier. By this, she means enormous moss trees, vertical moss and mushroom installations, and a branch mannequin with monarch butterflies escaping from its head. “The street is inspiring,” she says of Quillian, Galerie Half and Reform Gallery, plus Blackman Cruz and J.F. Chen nearby. By appointment; 6912 Melrose Ave., L.A.; littleworlddesign.com. s.F. + l.a. + Costa mesa

foot traffic Stark has just rolled its luxury decor inventory into L.A.’s chic La Cienega Design Quarter. The street-level showroom concentrates on retail, custom and trade rugs and carpets, while a new PDC space will exclusively handle textiles. The revitalized third-generation company is also in expansion mode: a trade-only S.F. spot, and a renovation in Costa mesa’s refined South Coast Collection will make room for furniture and missoni Home goods. 805 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310-657-8275; starkcarpet.com.

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written by alison clare steingold. caissie: katrina dickson; garland: kristen caissie. canasta: sam frost. little world designs: heather pando

Designer Suzan Fellman has the upper hand as L.A. dealer for the Cecil beaton line of textiles and coverings (look for new patterns this fall). Her next play: a collaboration with coastal-chic decorator Tim Clarke featuring Canasta iron-and-rattan lighting orbs. $495-$1,500/18-36”; deringhall.com.

FROM LEFT Samsun Collection, L.A., 310-657-8275; Layla Collection, S.F., 415-861-0466.

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C the menu Jonathan Grahm hand-purĂŠes raspberries and pink peppercorns for an infused ganache filling.

Just Desserts YaYo ahumada

Come november, it’s a different kind of truffle season in brentwood

written and edited bY alison clare steingold november 2012

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meanwhile... Confectionery stalwart Michael Recchiuti introduces his anticipated high-design Chocolate lab cafe in the Dogpatch. Ebonized oak floors, Kettle Collective ironwork, Heath tiles and schoolhouse chairs create a playful, wine-friendly hangout where you don’t need a Golden Ticket. 801 22nd St., S.F., 415-489-2881; chocolatelabsf.com.

Ecuador malt ice cream float with extra-bitter sauce and burnt-caramel spritzer.

T

hough born into the Bonny Doon family, Jonathan Grahm didn’t pursue dessert winemaking—only desserts. “Go figure,” he shrugs. For the prodigious proprietor of 62-year-old Compartes in Brentwood, chocolate is all he has known since he took over the store at 21 and began to produce ganache truffles. Colorful designs adorn each: flamingos on pear-cheese; argyle patterns on toasted pine-nut; lime-green chevrons on lemongrass. His divine caramels and exotic bars are all influenced by art, fashion and travel, whether the shocking neon gradient of Venice Beach at sunset, Día de los Muertos skulls or Peruvian forests. He lives, eats and sleeps chocolate; a journal by his bedside even logs flavor combinations from his dreams. Seems those visions have been embraced; now 28, the Angeleno has been listed in this year’s Forbes 30-under-30 for Food and Beverage—surrounded by bigwigs like Flour + Water’s Thomas McNaughton. Yet, he insists, “I stay in my own lane. I don’t want to be everywhere.” So where is he? Crafting gifts for Chloé and Diesel, and at the Santa Monica Museum of Art, where he painted Beatrice Wood’s iconic stick-figure sketch onto salted treats to fête a recent retrospective. This month, a shop in Japan will join seven recent openings and 100 future pop-ups in the country. The wunderkind will also unveil a handsome redesign of his L.A. tasting salon. There, 34 new indulgences are now stunningly displayed against black-and-white ikat tiling. What’s more, a second kitchen means he’ll launch nationwide. “I get goose bumps thinking about my bars at The Plaza Hotel,” he says. And until he realizes his fantasy of retiring to a cacao plantation in Kauai, a new office, complete with hammock, will do. 912 S. Barrington Ave., L.A., 310-826-3380; compartes.com. •

porTraiT: YaYo ahumada. floaT: Tom Seawell phoTographY

san francisco

Jonathan Grahm in his redesigned shop. RIGHT Artisan dark truffles of fair-trade, single-origin beans from South America.

ABOVE

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Preserves from The Still-Room, $20.

Pajo Bruich. BELOW Chanterelles, king trumpet noodles, dashi gelĂŠe, pineapple gel, poached yolk, micro-shiso.

SACRAMENTO

Talent Scout

Click Fast

J

ames Beard Award-winner Heidi Swanson of NorCal (101Cookbooks.com, Super Natural Every Day) brings her keen eye to QuitoKeeto, a drool-worthy, color-curated online collection of ingenious ďŹ nds: seashore honeys, Opinel cheese knives and Boulette’s Larder culinary salves. Holiday sale begins Nov. 26; quitokeeto.com.

$35, Ten Speed Press.

LOS FELIZ

Founder’s Red Wine, 2008, $20.

NIGHTTIME PROVISIONS

The space was once a Brown Derby.

At chic canteen MessHall, plaid-clad servers proffer small-batch bourbons and seasonal comforts like smoked corn fritters with romesco, and buttery trout amandine. Throwback recipes honor its “for Hollywood, by Hollywood� history. 4500 Los Feliz Blvd., L.A., 323-660-6377; messhallkitchen.com.

SAN FRANCISCO

VIA CUCINA

SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine follows chef Matthew Accarrino and Shelley Lindgren on an inventive regional romp with commentary on the most esoteric varietals, and regional specialties like Umbrian farro-stuffed quail with chestnuts, persimmon and dandelion greens.

SONOMA

OLD GUARD The cellars at Buena Vista—circa 1857— have been fully excavated by the inimitable Jean-Charles Boisset. Its tiered portfolio (including sparklers) beďŹ ts any holiday spread. 18000 Old Winery Rd., Sonoma, 800-926-1266; buenavistawinery.com.

MESSHALL: ALEN LIN. QUITOKEETO: HEIDI SWANSON. ENOTRIA (2): RYAN DONOHUE

SAN FRANCISCO

You can bet liquid nitrogen is now in the kitchen: Up-andcoming toque Pajo Bruich, off a stint at Meadowood, has taken the helm at rising star Enotria. 1431 Del Paso Blvd., Sacramento, 916922-6792; enotria.com.

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C travel

Above and Beyond

Modern luxury meets traditional Thai hospitality Forty minutes from the Phuket International Airport (HKT) is Kamala Bay—secluded from the inux of tourist developments. The only resort along the area’s prestigious Millionaire’s Mile, where part-time neighbors include an Indian government ofďŹ cial and a French fashion designer, Paresa Resort Phuket was originally conceived as a vacation home for its proprietor, Bangkok-based developer Poompong Patpongpanit. The island spread ultimately (and thankfully) made sense as a hotel. >>

PARESA RESORT PHUKET

Guests of Villa Amanzi (villaamanzi.com) have a live-in chef and full access to the resort and all of its services.

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY JENNY MURRAY NOVEMBER 2012

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<< Patpongpanit worked alongside a local architect to create the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired cliffside property, which was completed in 2010. Enveloped by lush vegetation and mature Banyan trees, the 49 rooms, two restaurants, spa, gym and inďŹ nity pool have a modern treehouse effect with sweeping views from every vantage point of the sparkling, azure Andaman Sea. There are ďŹ ve styles of lodging, each impeccably sleek with an open oor plan, seamless indoor/outdoor living and inďŹ nity pool. The Dima Spa Suite is truly mesmerizing; a private treatment area and steam room lead to a oating bathtub within a 32-foot pool that extends the length of the villa. It proves very difďŹ cult to leave, let alone abandon the comforts of your own room, but this is Thailand, after all. The

concierge will arrange elephant treks or charter a yacht to whisk you around some of the most surreal white-sand beaches. Closer to “home,â€? Paresa offers an authentic Dine & Cook experience. Resort chefs guide guests through a nearby market to purchase ingredients, then return for a hands-on master class to prepare such specialties as noodlefried shrimp, cashew chicken and duck green-curry. In the new year, Paresa will help open Za Za Da, a swank beach club on the bustling shores of Surin Beach. Two traditions not to be missed: Pad Thai for breakfast and a Thai massage in-spa or in-room. Ă€ÂœÂ“ĂŠfĂŽĂŽäĂ‰Â˜Âˆ}Â…ĂŒ]ĂŠÂˆÂ˜VÂ?Ă•`iĂƒĂŠLĂ€i>ÂŽv>ĂƒĂŒĂ†ĂŠÂŤ>Ă€iĂƒ>Ă€iĂƒÂœĂ€ĂŒĂƒ°Vœ“°ĂŠU

BAGGAGE CLAIM Board in style with Brunello Cucinelli’s smoky-hued leather suitcase. 310-724-8118; brunellocucinelli.com. Signature Zirconium, $19,400.

Metallic trolley, $4,315.

SPEED DIAL

Need to secure a last-minute ight across the globe on a private plane? Planning a wedding in India and need an elephant? Vertu Concierge will take care of it. A perk of one of the new Signature Zirconium phones: 24-hour assistance, worldwide, in nine languages. vertu.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI: AUGUSTO BUZZEO. SLIM AARONS: MOR WEIZMAN (2)

terrace of the Aqua Pool Suite. The resort’s inďŹ nity pool with loungers.

Roman Holiday

There’s no better way to armchair travel than with “Good Life� photographer Slim Aarons. The only front the late war lensman eventually captured was a social one—artists, celebrities, socialites and aristocrats at leisure—turning his focus on the lucky few in Slim Aarons: La Dolce Vita. $85, Abrams.

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Left: Dress - Carolina Herrera from Neiman Marcus Man’s outfit - Neiman Marcus Above: Cufflinks - GARYS Vases - The Newport Colony Company Cartier watch - Traditional Jewelers

Neiman Marcus

Bloomingdale’s Nordstrom

Macy’s M. Fredric Ella Moss Rebecca Taylor Roberta Roller Rabbit Kate Spade

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ShopFashionIsland.com © The Irvine Company LLC, 2012. All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island is a trademark of Irvine Company.

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C culture

Something Old, Something New Just one more fashion moment for Cameron Silver, the man with the gimlet eye

TOPFOTO/THE IMAGE WORKS

Yves Saint Laurent presents Pop art designs by Andy Warhol in Paris, 1966.

WRITTEn And EdITEd by ElIzAbETH KHuRI cHAndlER november 2012

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V

intage fashion proprietor, designer and snazzy man-about-town, Cameron Silver has come a long way since 1997, when the former cabaret crooner set up shop on Melrose Avenue. “I did vintage because I didn’t think the world needed another multi-brand retailer,â€? explains Silver of Decades. “And here I am, still hustlin’ the vintage.â€? The luxury bounty hunter funnels his 15 years of experience into Decades: A Century of Fashion this month. It’s a chic book, its own superABOVE Cameron model of sorts: tall and Silver. slim and faintly exotic. LEFT Decades: Inside, each of the 10 A Century chapters revisits styles of Fashion, Bloomsbury of a different era, all in Press, $60. Silver’s knowledgeable, slightly sardonic voice. “It’s not a deďŹ nitive history; it’s more like my history,â€? Silver says. “Once we found the motif of the book: modernitymodernity-modernity, it became easy,â€? he adds. In addition to musings on the style of “itâ€? girls Zelda

Fitzgerald and Josephine Baker, to Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and Patricia Field, Silver also highlights trends: the Orientalist craze of the 1910s, the ’60s pillbox hat moment and the high-low looks of the 1990s. There are proďŹ les of one glamorous designer per era, and Silver never forgets to ďŹ t each into the canon. “I always say that there is nothing new to do in fashion,â€? says Silver. “I want you to look at an early ’70s image and reference something that is turnof-the-century, like Fortuny pleats.â€? Over the years, Silver’s horizons have expanded: He has unearthed treasures from the late Princess Irene Galitzine’s wardrobe and dressed the likes of RenĂŠe Zellweger, Nicole Kidman and Dita Von Teese. He’s even starring in an upcoming Bravo reality series this winter, “Dukes of Melrose.â€? That said, the book project (with three more in the pipeline) was pivotal. “You know what surprised me? How much I already knew. Yes, I learned more about early 20th-century fashion, but then you look at a picture of Denise Poriet—wow. We can be bohemian more than once in the 20th century; it’s not exclusive to Talitha Getty. Everything kind of repeats itself in a new and wonderful way.â€? U

LOS ANGELES

SERVE ’EM UP Originating with owners Franck Raharinosy, Andrew Gordon, Jonathan Bricklin and Academy Award-winning actress Susan Sarandon, SPiN Galactic is a modern hybrid of ping-pong, cocktails and online social networking. Self-proclaimed pong propagandist Sarandon calls it the sort of thing that “you can drink while doing� and says the sport cuts across age and gender. “Little girls can beat their fathers.� Downtown L.A.’s Standard is embracing the trend, partnering with SPiN Galactic to open the city’s very own club; the hotel plans to convert the entire mezzanine level to a spread of 12 Olympic-caliber tables, a championship court, private room and lounge with DJ stations. standardhotels.com; standardculture.com.

SILVER: COURTESY OF DECADES. SPIN: NEIL RASMUS/BFANYC.COM

culture

THE ULTIMATE PADDLE David Lowe’s idea for Uberpong started out as a simple project under the umbrella of his trend-hunting website, Originofcool.com. Within a month on Kickstarter, the British entrepreneur had raised enough cash for a “proper business.� His design community devoted to decorative ping-pong paddles is on the hunt for vanguard Californians to add to the fold. Artisan paddle, $40; custom paddle, $65; uberpong.com.

A party at SPiN’s N.Y. club, located in the Biergarten at The Standard, High Line.

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culture San diego

To Have and to Behold

FROM LEFT Salomón Huerta, Untitled Figure, 2000. Robert Henri, Bernardita, 1922. Albert Bierstadt, Cho-looke: the Yosemite Fall, 1864.

Santa BarBara

new noise Part classroom, part playground— the santa Barbara Digital Music Conference & Festival gathers artists and digital music entrepreneurs for a slew of performances, workshops and lectures examining creative survival. Nov. 8-11; newnoisesb.org. San FranciSco

Girl Power

Best known for the ornate, 2,000-pound painting The Rose (1966), an often-overlooked Beat generation crony of Bruce Conner at last gets her first retrospective. The oeuvre of Bay Area talent Jay DeFeo spans paintings, drawings, photography, and more. Nov. 3-Feb. 3; sfmoma.org.

After Image, 1970.

loS angeleS

Toy Story Corsican-born artist Agathe Snow, beloved for her playful tendency toward spectacular, larger-than-life installations and work with found objects (and marriage to late artist Dash Snow), arrives in Los Angeles from N.Y. this month to debut a solo exhibition, “Tout Dit (2D).” Images of cars, guns and blowup dolls, inspired by the films of Abel Ferrara and Franco Zeffirelli, are juxtaposed against colorful wreaths crafted out of flotsam and jetsam. Nov. 3-Dec. 5; OHWOW Gallery, L.A.; oh-wow.com.

curtain call inTiMATE AppAREL A 1905 seamstress who alternately dresses Fifth Avenue matrons and ladies of the night searches for her own

version of love in Lynn Nottage’s critically acclaimed drama. Nov. 6-Dec. 2; Pasadena Playhouse; pasadenaplayhouse.org. ELEKTRA Fresh off a successful premiere in Los Angeles, the American Conservatory Theater’s Greek tragedy heads for San Francisco. Oct. 25-Nov. 18; act-sf.org. yOSHiMi BATTLES THE pinK ROBOTS The Flaming Lips are all over this animé-inspired musical by Wayne Coyne and Des McAnuff—paired with music and lyrics from the band. Nov. 6-Dec. 16; La Jolla Playhouse; lajollaplayhouse.org. Intimate Apparel

After ImAge: graphite, gouache and transparent synthetic polymer on paper with cut-and-torn tracing paper; the menil collection, houston; giFt oF glenn Fukushima; © 2012 the Jay deFeo trust/artists rights society (ars), n.y.; photo: paul hester

F

or the first time, The Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, The San Diego Museum of Art, and the Timken Museum of Art have joined for a team exhibition. Divvied up into three sections (figures, forms and frontiers), “Behold, America!: Art of the United States from three San Diego Museums” presents permanent collection beauties from each venue. Early portraiture by Thomas Scully; American Modernism by Morgan Russell and Manierre Dawson; and Albert Bierstadts’ light-drenched landscapes—think purple mountain majesties, plus Georgia O’Keefe’s otherworldly terrains highlight the show. It’s an exploration of scope and drama, from colonial origins to today’s in-your-face antagonism and bubbling energy. Opening celebration Nov. 9; mcasd.org, sdmart.org, timkenmuseum.org.

Elektra

Yoshimi Battles the Pink Robots

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new heights The sky’s The limiT for oscar-winning acTress marion coTillard

By deBorah schoeneman PhoTograPhed By maTThias vriens-mcgraTh

Christian Dior dress, $5,900. Christian Louboutin pumps, $625. FASHION EDITOR: JEANNE YANG

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Oscar de la Renta blouse, $550. Sonia Rykiel skirt, $1,075. Christian Dior shoes, $1,100. OPPOSITE Giorgio Armani hat, $2,945.

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Hollywood stage with leading roles in The Dark Knight Rises, Inception and Contagion. “It really changed my life into something very exciting and very happy,” she says. One of the many perks of her post-Oscar fame was that she got to meet her childhood hero, Steven Spielberg. “I went back to this little girl watching his movies and dreaming about being an actress and telling stories I cared about,” she says of meeting the director at an event. Raised on a steady diet of cinema by an actress mother and her actor-director-mime father, Cotillard always wanted to perform. A childhood fantasy was to be in the British television show “Absolutely Fabulous.” She still would like to appear in an American comedy. (The only television she watches now is “Mad Men.”) Her unimaginable level of success has also scored her a front-row seat to the high-fashion world, even though that was never a goal. Four years ago, she became an ambassador to Christian Dior, and she credits former designer John Galliano with teaching her to appreciate the industry she previously found shallow and intimidating. “I discovered that it was an art form, not just people who are thinking about fabric,” says Cotillard. With her one-year-old son and his father, Cotillard’s French actor-writer-director beau Guillaume Canet, she hopscotches Paris, New York and Los Angeles, where she’d like to buy a house one day in her favorite neighborhood, Los Feliz. She particularly likes Griffith Park. “I find Los Angeles very inspiring,” she says. “It’s a city in nature, and I love that.” A couple of years ago, she came to L.A. with some friends to play music and hang out. They could have gone anywhere in the world. She adds, “I was in France and I kind of missed being here.” Cotillard has toured and recorded with Yodelice, a French Expressionist-Surrealist band fronted by friend, composer Maxim Nucci. Her instruments are bass guitar, keyboard and tambourine; she performs with them as a man under the pseudonym “Simone,” the name of her grandmother. “Singing is something that I need in my life,” she says. Besides playing music, during her “time off” she’d like to travel more within California. She wants to check out Big Sur and visit her brother in San Francisco, where he works in the tech industry. She’s also planning to spend some time settling down at her apartment in Paris. “I just want to stay home and enjoy my friends and family and do simple things,” she says. Easier said than done for someone who wears so many hats. •

“[winning an Oscar is] an amazing thing, but it’s the cherry On the cake. and it has tO stay the cherry On the cake.”

HAIR: ROBERT VETICA AT THE MAGNET AGENCY FOR MOROCCANOIL. MAKEUP: FRANCESCA TOLOT FOR CLOUTIER REMIX USING DIOR SKIN. MANICURE: MIWA KOBAYASHI. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

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n an unusually drizzly morning in Hollywood, the jaded hostess at Chateau Marmont knew someone was waiting for a reporter on the otherwise empty back patio, but no, she had not seen French actress Marion Cotillard. Turns out that this someone was Cotillard, incognito, in a fedora. She started wearing hats after her 2007 Oscar-winning role as singer Édith Piaf in La Vie En Rose because she had to shave her eyebrows and part of her head to fully portray the tortured chanteuse. Plus, the intense role just exhausted her. “I looked like shit,” she says, laughing. It seems unlikely that Cotillard could look anything but flawless. The star—who’s wearing red studded Chloé boots, a Dior watch, a white knit sweater and a blue print Isabel Marant skirt—appears even more ethereal in real life than she does on the big screen. Her makeup-free, smooth skin looks far younger than her 37-year-old contemporaries. She swears plastic surgery scares her, and no surgeon is that good. Cotillard had just returned from the film festival in Telluride and was heading to the one in Toronto in a few hours to promote Rust and Bone, her new French film, out this month. “I’m taking some time off, even though it doesn’t show right now,” says Cotillard. “You need to go back to your own life sometimes, to get inspired again.” In the movie, she plays a killer whale trainer at an Antibes water park who suffers a horrible accident that costs her both legs. “I read the script and thought it was one of the most beautiful love stories,” she says. “I’m attracted to very deep characters and complexity that leads you to discover different levels of humanity.” Rust and Bone co-writer and director Jacques Audiard agrees. “What Marion did in La Vie En Rose really stuck with me,” he says. “I knew that one day or another I would go to her. She has a way of throwing herself into scenes—as if she’s launching herself off a high diving board. It’s scary.” But first, she had to get over her distaste for animal parks. “I’d rather see whales in their own environment and not in a swimming pool,” says Cotillard, an activist who’s involved with Greenpeace. “I will never go back to a Sea World.” The relatively “ugly” role is already garnering Oscar buzz— not that Cotillard admits she’s listening. “It’s an amazing thing, but it’s the cherry on the cake,” she says. “And it has to stay the cherry on the cake.” Since becoming the second French woman to win an Academy Award for Best Actress, she has dominated the

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HAIR: ROBERT VETICA AT THE MAGNET AGENCY FOR MOROCCANOIL. MAKEUP: FRANCESCA TOLOT FOR CLOUTIER REMIX USING DIOR SKIN. MANICURE: MIWA KOBAYASHI. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

Cédric Charlier dress, $795, Barneys New York. Christian Louboutin pumps, $795. Perrin Paris 1893 gloves, $525.

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CĂŠdric Charlier dress, $895. Barbara Bui sandals, price upon request. OPPOSITE Carolina Herrera gown, $7,990. Jimmy Choo pumps, price upon request.

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GETTY FABULOUS In the eucalyptus-scented Berkeley hills, designer Ann Getty honors the Bernard Maybeck Temple of Wings with a paean to the Aesthetic Movement By Diane Dorrans Saeks Photographed by Lisa Romerein

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In the living room, a circa 1840 ivory and ebony octagonal table with legs turned in the NeoRenaissance style is topped with a rare Tiffany Dragonfly lamp. A Tiffany Wisteria lamp stands on a Bugatti table. The walnut, ivory and brass table (right) is 19th-century Italian. Paintings include The Bath of Psyche by Lord Frederic Leighton (center).

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Le Printemps painting by william-Adolphe Bouguereau. Bernard maybeck designed the original Greek temple-inspired home. Ann Getty. on the mantel in the bathroom, surrounded by rare glass pieces, stands an oil painting from 1900 by the British artist frederick marriott. A series of corinthian columns support the structure. A tiffany lamp illuminates art pottery, including vessels by Grueby. An elaborate carved and gilded wardrobe. the skylit bathroom is centered upon a bath framed in De morgan tiles.

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n 1994, San Francisco-born musician/songwriter John Getty acquired the Temple of Wings residence in the Berkeley hills. This rare gem amid the neighborhood’s many architectural jewels was originally conceived by Bernard Maybeck in 1911 and built in 1914 as a residence and studio for dance teacher Florence Treadwell Boynton, her husband Charles and their seven children. Among visitors to Temple of Wings was famed modern dancer Isadora Duncan, one of Boynton’s childhood friends. Though strongly influenced by utopian ideals of classical revival architecture, Maybeck accommodated the Boynton family’s more practical requirements for a year-round residence. The original Maybeck Greco-Roman structure burned in a 1923 hillside fire (but the columns remained), and it was later rebuilt. Eighteen years ago, John Getty assumed the task of continuing its painstaking restoration, and, naturally, turned to his mother, Ann Getty, to achieve the historically-accurate Arts and Crafts interiors of the Greek temple-inspired residence. For this project, Ann Getty’s 40 years of study in historic decorative arts and in-depth research around the world took on the late-Victorian cult of beauty. (The Aesthetic Movement links late-Victorian revivalism with the coming of Arts and Crafts style.) The resulting rooms are period-perfect and, yet, suitable for entertaining and full-time residency. Over the course of three years, Getty exacted every design detail—from the antique velvet textiles to deep-pillowed sofas. With frequent trips to London to collect paintings, hand-woven carpets and rare porcelain pieces from this specific era, she created a superbly polished and authentic Aesthetic Movement look for the romantic, colonnaded building. Rooms glow with collections of Art Nouveau vases by Daum Nancy and Émile Gallé. Walls are painted in James MacNeil Whistler-inspired peacock blue and pale, golden wheat tones. Getty’s extraordinary eye comes as no surprise to friends and family. Passionate about textiles, ceramics and traditional craft, she voyaged to hidden corners of China, Burma, Vietnam, India and Egypt long before they were fashionable destinations for designers. In previous decades, even before she opened Ann Getty & Associates in 1997, the San Francisco interior designer/philanthropist curated a varied lot: a romantic Turkish-inspired interior in the Bay Area; an English country-house influenced, chintz-accented bedroom in the Sacramento Valley; a poetic Georgian study with peacock-feather walls in Pacific Heights; and a Presidio Heights living room with alluring French silk curtains. These rooms are featured in a new design monograph, Ann Getty: Interior Style, published by Rizzoli. “I always take my lead from the existing architecture and, in this case, the Berkeley structure had an eccentric and intriguing background,” says Getty. “I feel that it is important to listen to the client and incorporate their lifestyle continued on page 128

© ann getty: interior style by Diane Dorrans saeks anD photographeD by lisa romerein, is publisheD by rizzoli new york, october, 2012.

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The study’s gilded leather-topped library desk by Herter Brothers displays a collection of Tiffany Studios gold aurene glass objects, 1900.

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The Wisteria table lamp by Tiffany Studios, circa 1905–10, was designed by Clara Driscoll. Curtains in William Morris fabric. The painting, A Coign of Vantage, by Dutch-British artist Sir Lawrence AlmaTadema (late 19th-century). A favorite of museum curators, the piece has been exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, among others. The octagonal Bugatti table, circa 1900, is crafted with ebony and parchment decoration.

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Rabbit, 1986, stainless steel [Statuary Series].

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INSIDE OUT JEFF KOONS SPEAKS CANDIDLY TO JEFFREY DEITCH IN THIS EXCLUSIVE FROM THE MOCA AND LOUIS VUITTON ART TALKS

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hether skewering art history, repositioning objects associated with childhood, or aggressively confronting our pop culture ideals, Jeff Koons’ bold wit is unmistakable. This past September, the acclaimed artist spoke with MOCA Director Jeffrey Deitch about his formative years and how it has made him the auction record-holder he is today. The ďŹ rst of this year’s three MOCA and Louis Vuitton Art Talks took place at the Frank Gehry-designed home of Edythe and Eli Broad in Brentwood. Louis Vuitton continues its longtime patronage with a new extension launching this fall. Of the Louis Vuitton Young Arts Program with MOCA, says President and CEO of North America ValĂŠrie Chapoulaud-Floquet: “Over the course of nine months, 30 high-school students from the Los Angeles area will work closely with artists Edgar Arceneaux and Retna, gaining professional and personal development through this immersive and engaging journey through the creative process.â€? JEFFREY DEITCH So this is a very special occasion for Jeff and for me. We’ve had a friendship and a dialogue going back 30 years or more. The process of how someone goes from a relatively conventional boyhood in York, Pennsylvania, growing up in the 1950s, and becomes one of the most inuential artists in the world. This is an extraordinary story‌ JEFF KOONS I learned aesthetics through my father. My father had a furniture store and he was a decorator [Henry J. Koons Interiors]. And people say that I am particular. I picked this up from my father. At Christmas time, if we put up a Christmas tree, every Christmas tree ball would be completely polished. If there was a little hole in the tree, you know, we would cut a branch off of another part of the tree and wire it up in that area. My mother’s side of the family—my grandfather in York was City Treasurer—and I always felt that I picked up a kind of political side from my grandfather. And when I say political, just to survive, to have a sense that, you know, you can take care of yourself, and within your community try to achieve things and do things—and that

it was possible to be able to expand one’s parameter. JD You made a special trip from Maryland Institute College of Art to meet Salvador DalĂ­. JK I always liked DalĂ­ and this process of self-acceptance. Automatically, Surrealism is in tune with this journey inward. It’s one of the reasons I love Surrealism: this path of going inward and kind of accepting the not external, but internal self. My mother told me she read that DalĂ­ stayed at the St. Regis Hotel in New York and he’d be there half the year. So I called him up. He answered the phone, and he told me that if I wanted to meet him that would be great: Come to New York. He would be downstairs that Saturday in the lobby of the St. Regis Hotel at noon. I went there, and sure enough, right at noontime he was there. I was very young and nervous. I was just thrilled to meet him and that he took the time to meet with me. JD After the Maryland Institute, you attended the Art Institute of Chicago and Ed Paschke had a big impact on your work. JK He’d say, “Jeff, you know, let me show you this light at this bar over on the Westside,â€? and he’d take me to these clubs, and they’d be some of the strangest clubs in the world. But there would be this light. Like, you’d look at the curtain and maybe the curtain is green, but it’d have yellow lights on it. And he would show me midget bars—just different source material. What he was teaching was that everything is already here, and it’s about looking. JD And here is your best-known piece from Banality. JK This is, I think, my PietĂ . If you look at Michael Jackson, you kind of have the pyramid in the leg. It’s like the three pyramids of Giza there. But it’s making reference to Renaissance structure and the PietĂ . I wanted, in the Banality show, to have a symbol of a contemporary Christ ďŹ gure. I needed spiritual ďŹ gures there that people would go along with as self-acceptance and accepting their cultural histories, accepting the things they respond to in life and to go along with it. I had people like St. John, I had Michael Jackson and Bubbles. I had Buster Keaton. JD This is really the ďŹ rst work you actually put into CONTINUED ON PAGE 128

INTRODUCTION BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER. PREVIOUS PAGE: RABBIT: BROAD COLLECTION/DOUGLAS M. PARKER STUDIO. PORTRAIT: CHRIS FANNING. THIS PAGE: IMAGES (7) COURTESY OF THE BROAD ART FOUNDATION

“WE’RE INFLATABLES. WE TAKE A BREATH, WE INHALE AND WE EXHALE...WE HAVE BLOOD, GUTS, BRAINS, AND IT’S VERY VACUOUS OUT HERE. IT’S EMPTY.�

Michael Jackson and Bubbles, 1988 [Banality Series].

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introDuction by elizabeth Khuri chanDler. preVious page: rabbit: broaD collection/Douglas M. parKer stuDio. portrait: chris fanning. this page: iMages (7) courtesy of the broaD art founDation

Girl with Dolphin and Monkey Triple Popeye (Seascape), 2010. Tulips, 1995-2004 [Celebration Series]. Inflatable Flower and Bunny (Tall White and Pink Bunny), 1979 [Inflatables Series]. Three Ball 50/50 Tank (Two Spalding Dr. J Silver series, Wilson Supershot), 1985 [equilibrium Series]. Louis XIV, 1986 [Statuary Series]. Balloon Venus (Magenta), 2008-2012 [Antiquity Series].

from top row, left

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HIGHLY DECORATED Lydia Hearst salutes the season’s military-inspired fashions with statement-making diamonds and a surplus of rings, bracelets and brooches PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLIAMS + HIRAKAWA

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Max Mara wrap dress, $1,295. Bally boots, $1,395. Harry Winston Straight Line necklace, TrafďŹ c necklace, Sunower bracelet, Lattice bracelet, and ring, price upon request. Wolford tights, $48. FASHION EDITOR: KRIS ZERO

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Dries Van Noten shirt, $360, Barneys New York. Fendi skirt, $5,370, and belt, $1,850. Max Mara hat, $395. Van Cleef & Arpels rings, from $900. Gun holster from AA Surplus. OPPOSITE Tom Ford shirt, $3,560, and skirt with belt, $4,490. David Yurman earrings, $7,900, pendant, $1,950, Starburst ring, $7,800, and Crossover ring, $2,450. Harry Winston ring, price upon request. Hat from AA Surplus.

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Salvatore Ferragamo coat. Equipment blouse, $198. David Yurman earrings, $4,600, and bracelet. Van Cleef & Arpels watch, $7,300. OPPOSITE Prada coat, $3,875. Fendi boots, $1,430. Hat from AA Surplus.

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Gucci coat, $3,450, blouse, $1,150, and pants, $2,750. Van Cleef & Arpels brooch. David Yurman bracelet, $5,400.

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HAIR: ROB TALTY AT THE MAGNET AGENCY FOR SEBASTIAN. MAKEUP: SAGE MAITRI AT THE WALL GROUP FOR CHANEL BEAUTY. MANICURE: LISA POSTMA AT TRACEYMATTINGLY.COM. STYLIST ASSISTANT: SADIE ONTKEAN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129


HAIR: ROB TALTY AT THE MAGNET AGENCY FOR SEBASTIAN. MAKEUP: SAGE MAITRI AT THE WALL GROUP FOR CHANEL BEAUTY. MANICURE: LISA POSTMA AT TRACEYMATTINGLY.COM. STYLIST ASSISTANT: SADIE ONTKEAN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 129

Jason Wu coat, $4,295, Bergdorf Goodman. David Yurman necklace, $625. Hat and whistle from AA Surplus. OPPOSITE Giorgio Armani jacket, $1,950, hat, $2,945, and gloves, $745. Solange Azagury-Partridge brooch, price upon request.

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“ANN GETTY TOOK ON THE LATE-VICTORIAN CULT OF BEAUTY‌THE RESULTING ROOMS ARE PERIOD-PERFECT AND, YET, SUITABLE FOR ENTERTAINING AND FULL-TIME RESIDENCY.â€? Ann Getty: Interior Style, Rizzoli New York, October 2012, $55; rizzoliusa.com.

GETTY FABULOUS CONTINUED FROM PAGE 111

and penchants into the decor. John had a remarkably fine and rare collection that inspired everything in the interiors. It was a team effort.â€? To those who imagine Getty’s life as one long jet-set spree of galas and gowns: The decorator is, in fact, a devoted and hard worker. She stitches silk passementeries on pillows, repairs antique carpets and has even taking up a needle and thread to fix upholstery (like the night in 2003 when she debuted Ann Getty House Collection furniture at the Shears & Window showroom). Today, the Temple of Wings is sensual and stylized, lyrical and light-filled, gleaming with the highest ideals of the power of art, craft, and architecture. Bernard Maybeck ĂœÂœĂ•Â?`ĂŠLiĂŠÂŤĂ€ÂœĂ•`°ĂŠU

INSIDE OUT

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 116

your catalogue raisonnĂŠ. Inflatable Flower and Bunny (Tall White and Pink Bunny) is from the

Broads’ collection. JK I think this is 1979. It’s the first rabbit. I would buy these inflatables, and what I always liked about this piece was I felt that making this work I was always breaking away from my sexuality, my own being. I was going outward and making more objective work. Yet, there is something that is still so strong there in the color and the intensity of those greens, and the pink, and the orange— that it’s almost like there’s no need to get rid of that. And eventually, I learned there is no need to remove the self. JD I always see so much of you in the work, and I always identified you with that rabbit. JK We’re inflatables. We take a breath, we inhale and we exhale, and I think you can look at an inflatable and feel that relationship, but we feel kind of dense inside. We have blood, guts, brains, and it’s very vacuous out here. It’s empty. JD And this is [the] Statuary [Series]. JK There were 10 different objects, and one of them was the rabbit‌

I was really trying to show my own history of the ready-made‌ To me, the rabbit—it’s like they used to put in their yards in Pennsylvania at Easter time‌ The head is like the gazing ball. I also think of it as reference to Dalí. It’s a little bit like The Great Masturbator with the carrot to the mouth. It’s like an orator, like [us] sitting here with microphones; a symbol of the Playboy Bunny. So it has many different references, which helps give it this kind of iconic quality depending on what you see in it or kind of what you need to see in it. The only other thing I want to add is this aspect of the inflatable: When they’re inflated, it’s a symbol of optimism—it’s life. When they’re deflated, it’s our last breath—simple death. When I see one deflated, it’s so sad. So the rabbit is a symbol of, you know, eternal life. JD In January, 2014, we have the honor of hosting Jeff’s definitive retrospective. This is still just the beginning; there is a lot more zcoming. And we look forward to

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on our Cover Valentino black beaded jumpsuit, $14,000, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103.

Table of ConTenTs p.16 Gucci red satin long gown with pleated ruffles, similar styles available, $5,900, select Gucci stores, gucci.com. p.18 Tom Ford black nappa leather shirt, $3,560, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440. David Yurman pavé diamond Starburst ring, $7,800, pavé diamond woven Cable earrings, $7,900, gold Dome Moonlight Ice pendant, $1,950, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618.

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p38 Monique Lhuillier black wool jacquard seamed dress with leather detail, $2,890, Monique Lhuillier, B.H., 323-655-1088. Citrine By The Stones silver Bullet earrings, $255, Roseark, L.A., 323-822-3600. Tom Binns Design silver-plated brass Disengagement stud ring, $115, and silver-plated brass 2 Row ring, Tom Binns Megastore, N.Y., 917-475-1412; tombinnsdesign.com.

C fasHIon arm’s lenGTH p.51 Fendi black lace shirt, $1,190, select Fendi stores, fendi.com. Harry Winston diamond Traffic earrings, set in platinum, price upon request, Harry Winston, B.H., 310-271-8554. Van Cleef & Arpels white gold and diamonds Lotus ring, $32,600, and vintage Alhambra necklace in yellow gold with onyx motifs, $14,800, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. FROM TOP, MODEL’S RIGHT David Yurman woven Cable bracelet with pavé diamonds, $3,600, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618.Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée bangle in white gold, $7,100, and Perlée bangle in white gold with pavé diamonds, $29,400, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. Eddie Borgo rose gold and silver pavé Padlock Chain bracelet, $1,375, Kirna Zabete, N.Y., 212-941-9656. Van Cleef & Arpels yellow gold Jackie-O cuff, $36,100, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. FROM TOP, MODEL’S LEFT Van Cleef & Arpels pink gold Perlée bangle, $6,700 and white gold Perlée bangle with pavé diamonds, $46,000; Charms Mini watch with diamonds set in pink gold, $12,800; pink gold Perlée bangle with pavé diamonds, $29,000, and pink gold Perlée bangle with pavé diamonds, $45,600, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. David Yurman large oval link bracelet, $4,400, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Eddie Borgo rose gold pavé Cone bracelet, $875, Neiman Marcus, neimanmarcus.com. DIsCo fever p.56 Emporio Armani black slippers, $695, armani.com. Altuzarra black leather belt, by special order, josephaltuzarra.com. David Yurman yellow gold hammered Curb link necklace with handset cognac diamonds, $35,000, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Chloé small Lucy white leather bag, price upon request, special order select Chloé stores, chloé.com. Solange Azagury-Partridge yellow gold Tassel necklace, $14,400, Solange Azagury-Partridge, B.H., 310-276-4500. Salvatore Ferragamo gold whipstitch cuff, $7,875, select Salvatore Ferragamo stores, 800-628-8916. Vhernier black jet Nilo S ring in white gold with pavé diamonds, $18,350, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra thigh-high embroidered boots, $2,124, net-a-porter.com. Gucci gold-plated Cavallo bracelet, $1,050,

Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Diane von Furstenberg by H.Stern yellow gold earrings, $6,500, 800-747-8376, hstern.net. Michael Kors black Monroe sunglasses, $205, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. Louis Vuitton golden palladium finished metal All That Jazz earrings with Swarovski elements, $865, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310-859-0457. Giambattista Valli brocade and croc-stamped leather heels, $1,080, Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y., 888-774-2424. Tom Ford tan anaconda evening clutch, $1,360, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440. sInGular sensaTIon p.62 David Yurman emerald and diamond earrings with gem cabochon Colombian emeralds, embellished with cabochon drop Afghani emeralds and diamonds, price upon request, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Harry Winston diamond Draperie bracelet set in platinum, price upon request, Harry Winston, 800-988-4110; harrywinston.com. Verdura lapis, pearl and diamond No. 23 cuff, $32,500, Neiman Marcus; verdura.com. Christian Dior Fine Jewelry Dear Dior Résille Bouquet d’Opales earrings in yellow gold, platinum, black opal, turquoise, diamonds, emeralds, amethyst, demantoid garnets and sapphires, price upon request, 800-929-3467. Pomellato natural white gold Pom Pom ring with oval cabochon, tanzanite and brilliant-cut diamonds, price upon request, 800-254-6020; pomellato.com. Cindy Chao necklace, price upon request, cindychao.com. Cartier Panthère ring with platinum, one cushion-cut sapphire, onyx spots and snout, emerald eyes, diamonds, price upon request, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272.

neW HeIGHTs

p.100-101 Christian Dior black Les Noces dress in stretch silk and wool satin, $5,900, Christian Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. Christian Louboutin red patent Decollete 554 pumps, $625, Christian Louboutin, South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-754-9200; christianlouboutin.com. p.102 Giorgio Armani black hat, $2,945, armani.com. p.103 Oscar de la Renta silk baby-blue blouse, $550, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200. Sonia Rykiel black A-line skirt with button detail, $1,075, soniarykiel. com. Christian Dior tan suede Ballet heels, $1,100, Christian Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. p.105 Cédric Charlier black and white dress, $795, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400. Christian Louboutin leopard-print Decollete 554 pumps, $795, Christian Louboutin, B.H., 310-247-9300; christianlouboutin.com. Perrin Paris 1893 black Cabriolet short gloves, $525, Perrin Paris 1893, B.H., 310-786-9936; perrinparis.com. p.106 Cédric Charlier blue Ink Gazar strapless short dress, $895, cédric-charlier.com. Barbara Bui tan Gaiter sandals in nappa leather, price upon request, Barbara Bui, B.H., 310-275-4452. p.107 Carolina Herrera black and gallery gray abstract Jacquard strapless gown, $7,990, Carolina Herrera, B.H., 323-782-9090. Jimmy Choo silver Anouk mirror pumps, price upon request, select Jimmy Choo stores, jimmychoo.com.

HIGHlY DeCoraTeD

p.118-119 Max Mara olive wrap dress with stamped croco detail, $1,295, Max Mara, B.H., 310-385-9343. Bally lace-up Hellins boots, $1,395, Bally, B.H., 310-271-3310. Harry Winston diamond Straight Line necklace set in platinum, diamond Traffic necklace set in platinum, diamond Sunflower bracelet set in platinum, diamond Lattice bracelet set in platinum, diamond Crossover ring set in platinum; prices

upon request, Harry Winston, 800-988-4110; harrywinston.com. Wolford black seamless Fatal 50 tights, $48, wolford.com. p.120 Dries Van Noten white cotton shirt, $360, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400. Fendi navy pony hair skirt, $5,370, and wing belt, $1,850, select Fendi stores, fendi. com. Max Mara black wool hat, $395, Max Mara, B.H., 310-385-9343. Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée rings, $900-$4,000, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. Gun holster, AA Surplus, L.A., 323-526-3622; aasurplus.com. p.121 Tom Ford black nappa leather shirt, and black nappa leather fitted signature skirt with belt, $4,490, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440. David Yurman pavé diamond woven Cable earrings, $7,900, gold dome Moonlight Ice pendant, $1,950, pavé diamond Starburst ring, $7,800, and small Crossover ring, $2,450, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Harry Winston diamond Crossover ring, set in platinum, price upon request, Harry Winston, 800-988-4110; harrywinston.com. Hat, AA Surplus, L.A., 323-526-3622; aasurplus.com. p.122 Salvatore Ferragamo gray wool coat with astrakhan lining, $10,900, select Salvatore Ferragamo stores, 800-628-8916. Equipment cream blouse, $198, Equipment, L.A., equipmentfr.com. David Yurman gold Starburst earrings with pavé diamonds, $4,600, and pavé diamond woven Cable cuff, $32,000, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Van Cleef & Arpels vintage Alhambra watch, white mother of pearl dial set in an yellow gold case with a black satin strap, $7,300, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. p.123 Prada wool Tricotina wool embellished coat, $3,875, select Prada stores, prada.com. Fendi pony hair lace-up boots, $1,430, select Fendi stores, fendi.com. Hat, AA Surplus, L.A., 323-526-3622; aasurplus. com. p.124-125 Gucci deep brown signature wool oversize coat, $3,450, twilight purple light georgette shirt with pleated scarf, $1,150, and black shiny calf riding pants, $2,750, select Gucci stores, gucci.com. Van Cleef & Arpels yellow gold, diamond and white mother of pearl Rose de Noel brooch, $16,200, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. David Yurman pavé diamond Labyrinth bracelet, $5,400, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. p.126 Giorgio Armani navy jacket, $1,950, gloves, $745, and hat, $2,945, Giorgio Armani, B.H., 310-271-7790; armani.com. Solange Azagury-Partridge diamond and enamel Regalia brooch in honor of the Queen’s Jubilee, price upon request, solange.co.uk. p.127 Jason Wu green wool felt lace cape coat, $4,295, Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y., 888-774-2424. David Yurman textured dog tag, $625, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Hat and whistle, AA Surplus, L.A., 323-526-3622; aasurplus.com. •

CorreCTIons oCTober 2012: C What’s Hot, “Night At The Museum,” p.38, the date of the LACMA Art+Film Gala was incorrect. The correct date was October 27th. • C Fashion, “Blues Brothers,” p.62, the exclusive retailer for the J Brand collaboration is Shopbop.com. • C Home, “Beyond the Sea,” p.77, the website for Rizzoli New York is rizzoliusa.com. C for men, fall 2012: C Style, “AK Takes Ivy,”

p.54, Gant Creative Director Christopher Bastin’s name was misspelled. 1308 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424-272-9558; us.gant.com.

C Magazine November 2012 Volume 8/Number 3 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 17125, N. Hollywood, CA 91615-7125. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail: Ccccs@magserv.com. Domestic rates are $24 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.

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michael Jackson and madonna at the academy awards, 1991 a week before the 1991 academy awards, michael Jackson and madonna (who attended together) met at the ivy to coordinate their looks. as they pulled up to the shrine auditorium, Jackson stepped out in gold-tipped cowboy boots, a glittering diamond brooch and not one, but two gloves. on his arm, the “material girl” beamed in a low-cut, pearl-encrusted bob mackie gown, a fur stole dripping off her shoulders and $20 million in diamonds on loan from jeweler harry winston. host billy crystal welcomed the pop star on stage for her performance of stephen sondheim’s oscar-winning original song for Dick Tracy, “sooner or later (i always Get my man),” as, “the nc-17 portion of our really big show.” PhotograPh by ron galella

text by kelsey mckinnon

Ron Galella/WiReimaGe/Getty imaGes

story byline

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