C California Style by C Magazine

C CALIFORNIA STYLE CALIFORNIA STYLE

AMBER VALLETTA TURNING THE FASHION WORLD RIGHT SIDE UP

BEHIND THE SEAMS

DVF LOOKS BACK WHILE GAP GOES GLAM

ON POINTE

S.F.’S PRINCIPAL BALLERINA TAKES CENTER STAGE

SPRING FASHION ISSUE

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VA L E N T I J N D E H I N G H H I N G H

Photographs by Bruce Weber

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C march 2014

features

158 POINT OF VIEW

A shining vision at Walt Disney Concert Hall, Amber Valletta proves that beauty comes from within. After 20-odd years in front of the camera, the devoted mother breathes new life into the ecofashion movement. Jenni Kayne finds out how she does it all.

166 FIRST POSITION At the War Memorial Opera House, San Francisco Ballet principal Maria Kochetkova turns out in spring finery.

The dress that started it all under a ’70s mirror ball is now 40 years young. As a new generation slips into it seamlessly, designer and global society girl turned business tycoon Diane von Furstenberg proves she’s about as American Hustle as it gets. Improbably, she chose Los Angeles to fête her iconic frock and secure her own very personal legacy.

182 LIGHT & SPACE Laura Love embodies the minimalist California movement in a play between volume, scale and the sun’s soft rays. AMBER VALLETTA, in Salvatore Ferragamo top and skirt, Cartier bracelet and Christian Louboutin pumps, page 158.

C 40 MARCH 2014

192 SUPERLALOVE For Nina Garduno, FREECITY is more than just clothing—it’s about the whole neo-hippie experience.

CHRISTOPHER FERGUSON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

178 IT’S A WRAP

ÂŠ2013 Cartier

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C march 2014

FIRST POSITION, Jason Wu dress, page 166.

departments 56 FOUNDER’S LETTER

twist. Edun’s Danielle Sherman walks

A fresh outlook for spring.

on the wild side.

60 PEOPLE

113 BEAUTY

Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

Eva Guerrand-Hermès debuts catwalk-

in at The Line in Koreatown.

145 CULTURE Inside O.C. photographer Todd Selby’s chic new tome. S.F.’s hottest young dealer

69 SPLASH

Neuwirth’s new beach-infused scent for

153 COVET

A look at new and exciting people,

Barneys New York.

Spring’s must-have tribal accessories.

Violet Grey’s big reveal. The many

121 HOME

201 SHOPPING GUIDE

goings-on at MOCA. Gap’s inspiring

Eco-friendly landscapes from Scott

first collection from Rebekka Bay. Meet

Shrader; René Lalique’s legacy shines

202 CALIFORNIA

Kieley Kimmel, the West Coast’s most

bright. Entertaining tips from the pros

Valentino Garavani takes

promising new designer.

behind Hudson Grace.

to the streets of Hollywood.

84 REPORTS FROM THE SOCIAL FRONT

131 MENU

ON OUR COVER

C’s social scribe ends the year

local salts. Plus, Suzanne Goin’s item-

with a bang.

ized shopping list.

93 FASHION

139 TRAVEL

A denim bible for the fashion faithful.

Chanel does Dallas: A roundup of top

Trendspotting: beige gets an urban

to-dos in the Lone Star city. Checking

places and products around the state:

Spice up the season with a blacksmith’s

AMBER VALLETTA photographed by Christopher Ferguson in Lanvin top, skirt, and belt, Jennifer Fisher necklace, and Van Cleef & Arpels rings. See Shopping Guide for more details, page 201. Styled by Samantha Traina. HAIR Maranda C at The Wall Group. MAKEUP Shane Paish using Dior Beauty

at Walter Schupfer.

C 46 MARCH 2014

ABBEY DRUCKER. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

inspired workout gear. Plus, Irene

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JENNIFER HALE

Founder + Editorial Director

LESLEY CAMPOY President + Publisher JENNY MURRAY Editor

PAUL MEANY

SUE CHRISPELL

Art Director

Associate Publisher, West

KELSEY McKINNON

RENEE MARCELLO

Senior Editor

Associate Publisher, East

BRIAN D. LEITCH

CRISTA VAGHI

Features Director

Account Director, California

SAMANTHA TRAINA

ALEXANDRA VON BARGEN

Fashion Editor

Account Director, New York

ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD

CAMERON HARROS

Design + Menu Editor

Director, Business Development

ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

TRACY SKYTT

Arts + Culture Editor

Pacific Northwest Director

ANN SONG

MARY KENNEDY

Director of Digital + Integrated Media

Account Director, Home + Beauty

ELIZABETH VARNELL

ANNE MARIE PROVENZA

Digital Editor

Account Manager

ANNINA MISLIN

CATHERINE ABALOS Sales + Marketing Manager

Associate Fashion Editor

KRISTA NATALI

JACKIE TREITZ

Administrative Assistant

Designer

TROY FELKER

TARA MINSHULL

Finance Associate

Photo Editor

SANDY HUBBARD

MOR WEIZMAN

Information Technology Director

Art Production Assistant

MEGAN MEYER

ALLISON OLESKEY

Assistant Editor

Special Projects Director, SHO & Company, Inc.

STYLE EDITOR-AT-LARGE

George Kotsiopoulos

SAN FRANCISCO EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Diane Dorrans Saeks

DESIGN EDITOR-AT-LARGE

CIRCULATION CONSULTANTS/CIRCULATION SPECIALISTS, INC. SPECIAL PROJECTS CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Andrea Stanford

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Kendall Conrad

Greg Wolfe, Russell Marth

Jill Borenstein, Stephanie Steinman

Christine Lennon, Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith,

Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Caroline Cagney, Molly Creeden, Cat Doran, Marshall Heyman, Deborah Schoeneman

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS INTERNS

David Cameron, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Lisa Romerein, Williams + Hirakawa

Bertie Jimenez, Fiona Park, Ada Madigan, Chase Wilt, Lindsey Cook, Ellie June

C PUBLISHING LLC TEYMOUR BOUTROS-GHALI

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Vice President + Chief Financial Officer C OFFICES CALIFORNIA NEW YORK

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B L O O M I N G DA L E ’ S - N O R D S T R O M

founder’s letter

pring is always a time of rebirth…in nature, in resolutions and in fashion. I find the reawakening refreshing (even if we didn’t go through the polar vortex that many endured). My view on all seems to start anew: I clean out the closets, edit down my stuff to the (luxe) necessities, go through my files and desk drawers and organize the

heck out of them. I feel lighter and ready to tackle the year ahead. The same can be said for the magazine. While we strive to always be beautiful and represent California,

it can’t hurt to tweak a thing or two along the way. You will see little elements throughout the book that have been updated to keep us au courant. With the help of our new art director, Paul Meany, a talent who has come to us from Vogue Australia, the small changes are fun, fresh and exciting. Another addition is our new features director, Brian D. Leitch. With an impressive background in fashion, screenwriting and editorial, Brian brings years of experience from W, WWD, The New York Times Magazine and The New

Yorker. After he’d resided in Paris and N.Y. for many years, California captured his heart—a true testament to the pull and power of this state. Which brings us back to the point: celebrating the best of California. In this, our fashion issue, we highlight one of our all-time favorite supermodels, Amber Valletta. Now an actress and entrepreneur, Amber tries on the season’s cool metallics against the backdrop of Downtown L.A.’s Walt Disney Concert Hall. Another portfolio special to our environs is that of Nina Garduno’s FREECITY. From the way her clothing line is inspired, to the way her products are made, to her workshop of ideas that generate from FREECITY’s Hollywood flagship, it is an only-in-California story that we are thrilled to have the exclusive on (and shot by the über-cool Lisa Eisner to boot). Switching gears to a major trend for spring, we present the best of white on in-demand model Laura Love. Having grown up in Los Angeles, the daughter of Vogue’s Lisa Love has found her own path in the fashion world and is on quite a trajectory. And with the return of pretty fashion comes our feature set within the famed San Francisco Opera House. Principal dancer Maria Kochetkova stars in clothes that are perfectly dramatic and movable at the same time. Finally, we sit down with Diane von Furstenberg, the fashion legend (and part-time CA resident). When it came time to honor the 40th anniversary of her iconic wrap dress, she chose Los Angeles as the place to hold her international retrospective. Just another example that the world is looking to the left

Jennifer Hale Founder & Editorial Director

WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 56 MARCH 2014

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people WHO’S WHO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THIS MONTH’S ISSUE, PLUS THEIR FAVORITE CALIFORNIA PLACES

Jenni Kayne

“It was so fun to reconnect with Amber [Valletta], who really understands the importance of sustainability in fashion. I’m excited to see her new project come to life,” says Jenni Kayne about chatting with Amber Valletta for “Point of View” (p.158). The designer known for her Cali-inspired ready-to-wear recently opened the first Jenni Kayne Home store in Montecito. C SPOTS • Juices from Pressed Juicery • Escuela Taqueria • Bloom & Plume—they have the best flowers

Enzo Angileri

“When you combine the beauty of Laura Love with great makeup, fantastic natural light and the angles David Cameron shot, the end result is stunning,” says Hollywood hairstylist Enzo Angileri of “Light & Space” (p.182). C SPOTS • Bike rides in the Santa Monica canyons • San Francisco—the people, restaurants and neighborhoods • Napa’s wine country

Christopher Ferguson

“I always enjoy working with

C; We had a great day shooting Amber [Valletta] for this issue,” says L.A.-based photographer Christopher Ferguson of this month’s cover story “Point of View” (p.158). C SPOTS • Baked “donuts” from Fonuts • Watching the San Diego Chargers • The

“I adored working with [photographer] David Cameron and

landscape are like no other

Laura Love

“Jessica de Ruiter used to work with my mom

Laura Love, such a beautiful girl,

at TeenVogue. It was cool to work with her as a stylist

in a breathtaking location,” says

now,” says model Laura Love of shooting “Light &

Italian makeup artist Francesca

Space” (p.182). The L.A. native has also appeared

Tolot who contributed to “Light

in Vogue and French Vogue. C SPOTS • Sugarfish

& Space” (p.182). C SPOTS

• Wi Spa—the best place for a massage • Granola

• Pampering at Robert Vetica

with yogurt and apple butter at Sqirl

Salon • Hennessey + Ingalls bookstore • Sushi at Sugarfish

C 60 MARCH 2014

KAYNE: YAYO AHUMADA. TOLOT: ALBERTO TOLOT. LOVE: WILLIAM LORDS

Francesca Tolot

California desert—the colors and

NICOLE KIDMAN WATCH THE FILM AT JIMMYCHOO.COM BEVERLY HILLS 220 NORTH RODEO DRIVE LOS ANGELES BEVERLY CENTER CANOGA PARK WESTFIELD TOPANGA COSTA MESA SOUTH COAST PLAZA SAN DIEGO FASHION VALLEY SAN FRANCISCO 166 GEARY STREET SAN FRANCISCO BLOOMINGDALE’S

people Abbey Drucker

“I am thrilled to be a part of the March issue of C,” says N.Y.-based photographer Abbey Drucker, who captured Maria Kochetkova in “First Position” (p.166). Drucker’s work was recently featured in The Teen Vogue Handbook. C SPOTS • Hiking Griffith Park • The Getty Museum • SLO, Carpinteria and Ojai—all magical little towns that take you far from city living

Columbine Goldsmith

“Diane [von Furstenberg] was an even more immaculate hostess than I could image. She moved around the room greeting everyone, and looking so graceful doing it,” says bi-coastal photographer and filmmaker Columbine Goldsmith of “It’s A Wrap” (p.178). C SPOTS • El Matador Beach • Picnicking at Intruder Rock in Joshua Tree • The Esalen Institute

Brian D. Leitch

“DVF has done it ALL—and with all the best people! The ultimate international sophisticate, but un-snobby in the extreme, she even inquired after my love life!” says C Magazine’s Features Editor Brian D. Leitch after interviewing the designer for “It’s A

Wrap” (p.178). C SPOTS • Galerie Half • Mario’s Peruvian • Elizabeth Stewart’s Fierce Friday Night Cook-Offs—where the famous and not-so get the knives out!

Paul Meany

“I’ve worked in New York and Sydney. L.A. feels like the best of both,” says Art Director Paul Meany, who was with Vogue Australia before joining the C team. C SPOTS • Minty Hawaiian smoothies from Fred Segal’s Mauro Cafe • Hearst Castle • Arcana: Books on the Arts—like a library of cool

C 64 MARCH 2014

Megan Meyer

“Talking to Hollye [Jacobs] about her experience was incredibly eye-opening for me. Her positive outlook on life’s challenges is such an inspiration,” says C Magazine’s Assistant Editor Megan Meyer (“Silver Linings Playbook,” p.116) who formerly interned at Santa Barbara Magazine. C SPOTS • Refugio State Beach • SOhO Restaurant & Music Club • Tart on Fairfax—the best for brunch

DRUCKER: NICHOLAS STRINI. GOLDSMITH; PHOTO BOOTH, PALAIS DE TOKYO. LEITCH: ELIZABETH STEWART. MEYER: BOBBY MACIAS

WHO’S WHO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THIS MONTH’S ISSUE, PLUS THEIR FAVORITE CALIFORNIA PLACES

magazinec.com C in Motion Want to see more? Photographer Christopher Ferguson’s ethereal short film of this month’s cover shoot, “Point of View” (p.158), takes a closer look at the modern metallic trend.

Plastic surgery what’s the limit?

CALIFORNIA STYLE

Fresh Fashion

spring’s Best Bags Bay area designer Boom caroLina herrera’s caLiFornia dreams

FLASHBACK

angeLic amBer

Brand new Looks

One tO watch in hOllywOOd

Valletta’s first C cover was March 2007.

March–the Virtual Edition Log on to the newly redesigned magazinec.com to learn more about the making of our spring fashion issue

Style, Delivered

Sign up for the csocialfront.com newsletter and get the inside scoop on parties, designers and trendsetters sent straight to your inbox.

SITE UNSEEN FASHION, INTERIOR DESIGN, FOOD, ART, CULTURE AND THE SOCIAL SCENE ALL HAVE A FRESH NEW LOOK ON MAGAZINEC.COM. CONNECT WITH C MAGAZINE C 66 MARCH 2014

Behind the Scenes Before Maria Kochetkova [on Instagram @balletrusse] took a single leap, she had to stretch and primp. We captured the San Francisco Ballet principal dancer pre-shoot, along with the moodboards, props and fashion that inspired “First Position” (p.166).

VALLETTA: CHRISTOPHER FERGUSON

Inset caption in sea while firming the

ITALIAN VOGUE, 1984 © ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE FOUNDATION; COURTESY: OHWOW, LOS ANGELES

FASHION SHOW

OhWow fuels L.A.’s nostalgia for Robert Mapplethorpe with “As Above, So Below”

Italian Vogue, 1984. In recent years, LACMA and the Getty Institute have jointly acquired more than 2,000 Mapplethorpe works. Through March 29; oh-wow.com.

EDITED BY KELSEY McKINNON MARCH 2014

C 69

TRADE ROUTES

Hand-painted sweaters from the GP Blue collection.

This past fall, designer Gregory Parkinson decided to make a detour while vacationing in India to visit the knitting mill in central Nepal he had employed for the first two collections of his cashmere line, GP Blue. After working directly with the region’s craftsmen for seven days—hand-painting wool from Mongolian goats—Parkinson returned to his L.A. studio to design the line’s newest collection. He also plans to return to the region in March to work on new concepts. “I’m able to come into contact with people one never would when traveling as a tourist. That is a big part of the inspiration.” From $245; Barneys New York; gregoryparkinson.com.

THE COAST IS CLEAR What better way to celebrate the big 3-0 than with a classic California beach party? Tommy Hilﬁger’s landmark spring collection of sporty wave-making looks hit a catwalk of wooden planks wrapped around sand dunes with songs from the Beach Boys reminding us that summer is just around the corner. 157 N. Robertson Blvd., WeHo, 310-247-1475; usa.tommy.com.

ALL THAT GLITTERS From Dorothy’s ruby slippers to the Rodarte tutus in Black Swan, Hollywood’s illustrious love affair with Swarovski crystals continues this month on Tinseltown’s grandest stage. Weighing close to a ton, the beaded Oscar curtain designed by Derek McLane is itself worthy of a golden statue. The iconic Austrian brand—started by a Bohemian inventor in 1895—has also begun to infiltrate a deeper fashion consciousness. Collaborations with cutting-edge designers this season include L.A.’s Juan Carlos Obando, Maison Martin Margiela and Christopher Kane. Obando’s Roxbury ring, Camden bracelet and Bel Air necklace pay respects to the designer’s hometown while making a claim for new-Hollywood glamour. atelierswarovski.com.

Tommy Hilfiger Spring/ Summer 2014.

C 70 MARCH 2014

Juan Carlos Obando in studio. Atelier Swarovski by Juan Carlos Obando Glen bracelet, $195. Obando’s sketches.

FROM TOP

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON AND MEGAN MEYER. GP BLUE: COURTESY OF GREGORY PARKINSON. SWAROVSKI: PUNDERSONS GARDENS

splash

Dee-S espadrilles, $380.

STEP UP After 17 years of buying trips in New York and Paris for Kristen Stewart wearing Jillian Dempsey jewels at the Chanel Fall 2013 Couture show. Baby Crown stacker rings in 18K rose gold, $250/each. Spike necklace with diamond, $1,050. FROM LEFT

her eponymous shop in the Palisades, Elyse Walker decided to get creative. This spring, she launches a shoe collection of espadrilles (made in Spain) and ladylike suede slingbacks. 15306 Antioch St., Pacific Palisades, 310-230-8882; elysewalker.com; forwardbyelysewalker.com.

MALIBU

GOLDEN GIRL

Makeup artist Jillian Dempsey has spent many years beautifying Hollywood A-listers and now applies her clean, modern style to a line of fine jewelry. Her fascination with form and sculpture started two years ago when the Malibu resident enrolled in a local pottery class. “I wanted to feel my way through this and discover what I gravitated toward,” says the designer, who hand-sculpts each piece from wax. Next up: leatheraccented accessories for men. Maxfield Malibu, 3939 Cross Creek Rd., Malibu, 310-270-9009; dempseyjewelry.com.

C 72 MARCH 2014

Jillian Dempsey

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON AND MEGAN MEYER. KENZO: PIERPAOLO FERRARI. STEWART: COURTESY OF CHANEL HC SHOW FW 13-14. DEMPSEY: NATASHA CALZATTI

SEA CHANGE California-based creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s spring collection for Kenzo is a mashup of ocean motifs, surf culture and nods to L.A.’s underground music scene. A portion of the proceeds from the “No Fish...No Nothing” tee beneﬁt the Blue Marine Foundation to prevent overﬁshing. kenzo.com.

Kenzo Spring 2014 RTW. BELOW L.A. model Devon Aoki models in the campaign.

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

splash FACE TIME Beginning Oscar week, beauty buffs can peruse

the Serge Lutens and Dior-lined shelves at Violet Grey— both online and at the recently renovated Melrose Place atelier designed by Studio Soﬁeld. Founded by Cassandra Huysentruyt Grey (the better half of Paramount’s Brad Grey), the site is populated by industry insiders offering everyday and red carpet essentials. 8452 Melrose Pl., L.A.; violetgrey.com.

HANDS-FREE The season’s “it” bag takes the shape of an elegant, grown-up backpack FROM LEFT Proenza Schouler large PS backpack, $2,150. Balenciaga Le Dix backpack, $1,765, Neiman Marcus. The Row grey calfskin backpack, $3,900, Amaree’s.

All American

Gap’s new creative director pushes the boundaries of red, white and blue When Gap handpicked Rebekka Bay, the veteran Danish designer who launched H&M’s COS and had never actually lived in America, to be creative director, it raised the question: Will she be the fashion world’s next Jenna Lyons? As bloggers deliberated the possibilities, Bay settled into her New York office last October and set to work designing her first collection for the 45-year-old S.F. company. “One of the things I did do was to reread Take Ivy [written by Japanese stylists in 1965], which was a great field study into American campus style. [It] left me with an understanding of American style being less about trends and more about attitude.” The new approach is perhaps just the ticket to bring the heritage brand up to snuff. The relatively fashion-forward spring collection, inspired by “the big outdoors—from the surf on the West Coast to the pastel colors of Miami’s Art Deco architecture,” is Gap through a sleek, minimalist lens (daring a Céline or Jil Sander comparison or two). Bay explains, “I am learning how far I can stretch an iconic piece before it loses its iconic status.” So far, it feels like a perfect fit. gap.com. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Looks from the Spring 2014 presentation. Rebekka Bay. Clean low Vacchetta leather sandal, $39.95. Small leather flap clutch, $39.95. Tropical print bomber jacket, $98.

C 74 MARCH 2014

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON. EVA MENDES: GUY AROCH. LIPSTICK: DIMITRI NEWMAN. GAP: COURTESY OF GAP

FROM LEFT The Violet Files, Violet Grey’s digital publication, featuring actress Eva Mendes. Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Color in Red Amour.

It’s Personal

After years of editorial and red carpet styling, Mary Alice Haney launches Haney, a concise line of demicouture gowns that can be customized by color, neckline, hemline, fabric and embellishments. Invite-only trunk shows are hosted by brand ambassadors (Alexandra von Furstenberg, Minnie Mortimer and Alexis Traina...). From $1,000; net-a-porter.com; shophaney.com.

The Jessica, $3,370. RIGHT

Mary Alice Haney.

Starburst Ball earrings in gold and sapphire, $2,800.

Installation view of “Selections from the Permanent Collection” at MOCA. DOWNTOWN L.A.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD Following an intense vetting process, MOCA’s board chairs, Maria Arena Bell and David G. Johnson, along with Andy Warhol Foundation Philippe President Joel Wachs and artists Vergne John Baldessari, Barbara Kruger, Catherine Opie and Ed Ruscha, have filled the museum’s top spot. Frenchman Philippe Vergne, 47, joins the reenergized institution from the esteemed Dia Art Foundation in New York (the post formerly occupied by LACMA’s Michael Govan) and previously the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis. Among the director’s first orders of business? Hosting the museum’s 35th anniversary gala in partnership with Louis Vuitton on March 29th, followed by the much-anticipated retrospective of late L.A. artist Mike Kelley March 31-July 28. moca.org. ABOVE Mike Kelley’s Friend of the Animals and Animal Self, 1987.

DELICACIES After helping launch the culinary empire of her husband, chef Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun, Trois Mec), Sarah Hendler indulges her taste for ﬁne jewelry with a line inspired by family heirloom pieces. sarahhendler.com.

LAND ROVER For The Manifest Destiny Billboard Project, L.A. artist Zoe Crosher and LAND’s (Los Angeles Nomadic Division) director and curator, Shamim M. Momin, enlisted 10 artists (John Baldessari, Sanford Biggers, Eve Fowler, et al.) to create billboard “chapters” along I-10 from Florida to California illustrating the story of the great American ideal. Downtown L.A.’s Institute for Art and Olfaction has created a scent to correspond with each stop. nomadicdivision.org.

C 76 MARCH 2014

ABOVE Chapter RIGHT The

#1: Shana Lutker’s Onward and Upward,, 2013, Jacksonville, FL. Manifest Destiny Billboard Perfume for artist Zoe Crosher, $75.

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON. PHILIPPE VERGNE: PETER GREGOIRE. MIKE KELLEY PAINTING: HELENE TORESDOTTER, COURTESY MIKE KELLEY FOUNDATION FOR THE ARTS. MOCA: BRIAN FORREST. SHANA LUTKER, ONWARD AND UPWARD, 2013, JACKSONVILLE, FL., BILLBOARD. A LAND EXHIBITION: THE MANIFEST DESTINY BILLBOARD PROJECT

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CREATIVE LICENSE

Kieley Kimmel rethinks the art of fashion with a clean, Cali-minded line

FROM TOP Kimmel’s inspiration collage for spring features images from artist Adriana Varejão, the Sutro Baths, raindrops on concrete, fabrics and Bondo textures. Spring looks. Reflective raincoat, $598. Arcade skirt, $446.

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WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON. PORTRAIT: LOGAN WHITE. RAINCOAT AND SKIRT: MOR WEIZMAN

realized the textile business was a place where I could do both painting and fashion,” explains Kieley Kimmel of her crossroads as an undergrad at RISD (Rhode Island School of Design). The early seeds of her collection were sown while working on a project for her thesis called Marfakind, based on time living in the Texas desert town with her older sister, Erin. After graduation, Kimmel, an S.F. native, moved to New York to apprentice at Rachel Comey and 3.1 Phillip Lim. She also worked with interior artist Matt Austin on projects for Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs. Two years later, she recruited her sister, then a curator at Ballroom Marfa, to conceptualize the first collection. The decision to officially launch Kieley the line also involved a move back Kimmel west. “I wanted a change of lifestyle plus more space and light to create my work. I love New York but felt distracted there,” says the designer, who now collaborates with her sister on all aspects of the line out of a studio downtown. She lives with her partner, a Light+Space installation artist, in Lincoln Heights. Kimmel’s spring collection, her second season, draws from Walter Benjamin’s Arcades Project and the emergence of leisure culture in Paris. While reading the thick, unfinished manuscript, she was reminded of something from her childhood. “My sister had a friend who lived next to the Sutro Baths, and we always played in the ruins, turning them into forts,” Kimmel says of the 1890s S.F. bathhouses, which have twice burned down. References to water and concrete are expressed on space-dyed linens, leathery washed silks and chunky knits—samples of which are made on a hand loom in her studio. She’s teamed up with other up-and-comers (Clyde, David Michael, Arielle De Pinto and Open House) to open YES Showroom on N.Y.’s Lower East Side, where she’ll debut her third collection. Imagine pieces inspired by concepts in Michael Taussig’s What Color Is the Sacred?…and decide whether you want to hang them Sacred? in your closet or frame them on the wall. From $180; available at TenOverSix; kieleykimmel.com. kieleykimmel.com •

20 ✹ STUDENTS ✹ BEVERLY HILLS

Distinguished by thick wavy manes, porcelain skin and mature, oft-coordinating style, Palestinian twins Sama and Haya Khadra captivated onlookers while attending Paris Fashion Week with their mother as teenagers. Now, as USC film students, Karl Lagerfeld’s young muses share their cool-school approach. STYLE We’ve been really influenced by ’90s hip-hop fashion and early-’90s Chanel. INSPIRATION Other than our mom [who owns an upscale boutique, The Art of Living, in Riyadh], our little sister “Baby G.” Style is usually more about attitude than anything else. DIRECTORS We love Woody Allen, George Cukor and Howard Hawks. MOVIE Clueless. RESTAURANTS Gjelina, Matsuhisa, Night + Market and The Daily Dose. HIDDEN TALENT We have our own secret written and spoken language. CALIFORNIA Driving down palm-tree-lined streets blasting music, chasing sunsets. LEFT, ON HAYA Fendi

mink dress. Cartier Juste un Clou ring (index finger), $4,050, and bracelet, $12,600. ON SAMA Fendi leather dress. Cartier Juste un Clou ring, $4,050. All other jewelry their own. FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN

EDITED BY KENDALL CONRAD PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CAMERON

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HAIR: CHRIS McMILLAN USING LIVING PROOF. MAKEUP: ERIN MOFFETT USING LAURA MERCIER COSMETICS AT STARWORKS GROUP. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

HAYA + SAMA KHADRA

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SPR IN G FORWA R D IN ST Y LE MARCO BICEGO

Lunaria collection: 18K hand engraved yellow-gold collar, $7,410. Saks Fifth Avenue, 9600 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-275-4211; marcobicego.com.

BALLY

Accordion handbag, $1,250. 340 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-271-3310; South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-557-1914.

NIC + ZOE

Twirl dress, $198. nicandzoe.com.

POMELLATO

18K rose-and-white-gold rings with faceted amethyst, blue topaz and lemon quartz with white diamond pavĂŠ, $5,800 each. 320 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-858-1300; pomellato.com.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Leather color block zip tote bag, $2,035. 9534 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310-724-8118; South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-957-6930.

MAX MARA

Ginevra calf leather color block bag, $995. 415 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-385-9343; 175 Post St., San Francisco, 415-981-0900.

SANDRO

Calfskin leather moto-jacket, $1,140. 310 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-281-0083; 2033 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-292-4841.

MAJE

Black lace dress, $470. Beverly Center, 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 310-360-4888; maje.com.

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ROBERTO CAVALLI

Red perforated lace-up leather bootie, $1,125. 362 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-276-6006; South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-850-1400.

T H E

W O R L D ’ S

P R E M I E R

C O L L E C T I O N

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M A R K E T.

CrystalsAtCityCenter.com • Located next to ARIA ® Resort & Casino • Clothing and accessories provided by Donna Karan • Jewelry provided by Bulgari

reports from the

SOCIAL FRONT Sizing up California’s glamorous scene one bash at a time Edited by Phoebe Doheney Tatum and Alexander Getty

Joy Venturini Bianchi

S.F. SYMPHONY Billy and Vanessa Getty orchestrated a lavish 80th birthday celebration for Billy’s father, Gordon (a classical music composer himself and benefactor of S.F.’s music scene), at the San Francisco Symphony. Michael Tilson Thomas conducted the impeccable Plácido Domingo and Frederica von Stade— and an orchestral performance of one of Getty’s compositions.

Sabrina Buell and Yves Béhar

Dede Wilsey, Sloan Barnett

Ken Fulk, Alexis Traina, Madison Cox

Johnny Depp and Amber Heard

Chanel hosted a dinner to launch Drew Barrymore’s new book, Find It in Everything, at the fashion house’s West Hollywood boutique. Guests including Chelsea Handler, Reese Witherspoon and George Kotsiopoulos turned out to celebrate the book of Barrymore’s photographs of hearts found in unique places.

Minnie Mortimer

Kelly Sawyer Patricof Gillian Jacobs

Michael Polish and Kate Bosworth

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Paz Vega

Busy Philipps

Ann Getty

CHANEL

THE ART OF ELYSIUM A Champagne reception kicked off The Art of Elysium’s seventh annual Heaven Gala at the Skirball Cultural Center honoring Linda Perry, Ali Larter and Hayes MacArthur for their contributions to the charity. A-listers were also treated to a traditional sitar set.

Gavin Newsom and Jennifer Siebel Newsom

Reese Witherspoon

Will Kopelman and Drew Barrymore

GORDON GETTY: MOANALANI JEFFREY PHOTOGRAPHY. THE ART OF ELYSIUM: RACHEL MURRAY FOR GETTY IMAGES. CHANEL: KOURY ANGELO FOR BFANYC.COM

Gordon Getty, Vanessa and Billy Getty

reports from the

SOCIAL FRONT Lisa Eisner

Jessica Alba, Tory Burch

Rashida Jones, Eva Amurri Martino

Liberty Ross

TORY BURCH

Ahna O’Reilly, Emmy Rossum, Hailee Steinfeld, Brooklyn Decker

Tory Burch celebrated the opening of her Rodeo Drive flagship in style with L.A. friends Jessica Alba and Rashida Jones, both in pieces from the designer’s Spring 2014 and Pre-Fall 2014 collections. Attendees enjoyed music by Q-Tip and a short film by Lisa Eisner while touring the new Beverly Hills boutique. Amanda de Cadenet, Olivia Wilde

ACE HOTEL

Nikolai Haas

Marisa and Adam Tomei

The Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles celebrated its grand opening at the historic United Artists building. Guests including Jared Leto, Olivia Wilde and Lisa, Natalie and Laura Love noshed on provisions by the hotel’s restaurant L.A. Chapter and toured the hotel’s Commune Design-styled interiors before making a tribute toast to the late Ace founder Alex Calderwood.

GEORGE KOTSIOPOULOS

George Kotsiopoulos

The dapper cohost of E!’s Fashion Police (and C’s fashion editor-at-large), George Kotsiopoulos, recently fêted his first book, Glamorous by George ($20, Abrams), with friends in Beverly Hills. Throughout the honest and witty guide to gorgeous, the red-carpet style expert offers tips on how every woman can pull off Old Hollywood glamour... “Chapter One: Dressing like a movie star (on an extra’s budget).” For Kotsiopoulos, it’s a nostalgic ambition. “I long for the return of the real movie star—the allure, the wit and the mystique.”

Margot Robbie in Gucci

Kerry Washington in Balenciaga

GEORGE’S BEST-DRESSED PICKS FROM THE GOLDEN GLOBES C 86 MARCH 2014

Cate Blanchett in Armani Privé

Lupita Nyong’o in Ralph Lauren

TORY BURCH: GETTY IMAGES FOR TORY BURCH. ACE HOTEL: MICHAEL UNDERWOOD FOR ABIMAGES. KOTSIOPOULOS: AMY GRAVES FOR WIREIMAGE. WASHINGTON: COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA. BLANCHETT: COURTESY OF GIORGIO ARMANI. ROBBIE: STEVE GRANITZ/WIRE IMAGE/GETTY IMAGES. NYONG’O: JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE

Jessica Joffe, Carlos de Souza, Lisa Love, Nathalie Love, Brad Wilson, Laura Love, Hamish Bowles, Fernanda Abdalla

NICANDZOE.COM

reports from the

SOCIAL FRONT Stella McCartney models

Christos Garkinos, Julia Sorkin Colleen and Bradley Bell

Erin Wasson

PSLA

The Philanthropic Society Los Angeles’s fourth annual Autumn Party—cohosted by an expecting Rochelle Gores Fredston—celebrated British fashion and fare at the Bel Air home of Colleen and Bradley Bell. Guests including model Erin Wasson, designer Monique Lhuillier and Portia de Rossi got a sneak peek at Stella McCartney’s Spring 2014 collection and dined on shepherds pie and beef Wellington. The English-inspired bash benefited L.A.’s Children’s Institute, Inc.

Christine Chiu

Molly Sims Kelly Osbourne

Marlien and Coliena Rentmeester

Angelique Soave, Jane Ross

Monique Lhuillier

Larissa Sabadash, Tatiana Sorokko

Portia de Rossi

Louise Roe

Shiva Rose, Alice Ryan Caitlin Fitzgerald

Dita Von Teese

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Taryn Cox, Anna Kendrick

Michelle Dockery

LOVEGOLD LoveGold celebrated actress Michelle Dockery amid an exquisite arrangement of poppies, roses and lilies at a luncheon at Chateau Marmont’s Selma House. Friends gathered to honor the “Downton Abbey” star and browse pieces from the label’s most cherished collections.

AUTUMN PARTY: STEFANIE KEENAN. LOVEGOLD: JOHN SCIULLI FOR GETTY IMAGES

Rochelle Gores Fredston

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Blue Jean Baby

HILARY WALSH

From three L.A. experts, A Denim Story chronicles the wardrobe staple in all its many forms “The notion of freedom is as American as apple pie and blue jeans. Whether it be Rosie the Riveter advocating women working during wartime, or hippies in painted and patched bell-bottoms, denim is the fabric of independence and selfexpression.” —A Denim Story ($32.50, Rizzoli) EDITED BY SAMANTHA TRAINA MARCH 2014

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fashion

fter seven years of conversing daily about jeans while building their line, Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, with their frequent collaborator, fashion photographer Hilary Walsh, have assembled a Jessica Hart photographed complete tribute: A Denim Story ($33, Rizzoli). In bellby Hilary Walsh. bottoms and cutoffs, modern muses like L.A.’s Angela Lindvall are represented alongside icons Jane Birkin and Marilyn Monroe. As for the future of blues: “Everyone’s been talking about the end of color and print and the resurgence of classic black and white denim—getting back to basics,” says Current. Walsh, though, doesn’t anticipate a seismic shift away from skinnies and boyfriends anytime soon. rizzoliusa.com.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

TBT STYLE

Longing for the early days of hip-hop? Opening Ceremony’s La Cienega flagship is home to the brand’s second collaboration with DKNY, featuring bodysuits, raincoats and unisex T’s emblazoned with the ’90s-throwback DKNY logo. 451 N. La Cienega Blvd., WeHo, 310-652-1120.

FROM TOP Renaissance

bracelets in black aluminum, $350, white gold with pavé diamonds, price upon request, rose gold, $9,500.

( DON’T ) KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF FROM LEFT

Stepping straight off the runways: Emporio Armani, Chanel and Miu Miu. A look from Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection.

C 94 MARCH 2014

Thirty years after jewelry designer David Yurman first crafted the Renaissance cable bracelet, he is celebrating its success with special anniversary renditions. Yurman’s wife, Sybil, a cocreator of the line, has worn the signature piece almost daily. With the couple’s son, Evan, chief design director, the collection includes six cable bracelets fully covered in white or black pavé diamonds, which are hand-set by a master gem setter. 371 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-888-8618; davidyurman.com.

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON AND MEGAN MEYER. A DENIM STORY: HILARY WALSH. OC/DKNY: ANTHONY MAULE

Heirloom Pieces

beverly drive, beverly center, fillmore street

fashion Andrea Lieberman

Haut Monde After meeting through a mutual friend,

L.A.-based fashion maven Kelly Wearstler joined French designer Thierry Lasry to create “Anorexxxy”—a collection of colored acetate sunglasses handmade in France that combine Lasry’s ’80s-influenced frames with Wearstler’s signature metal and marble detailing. 8440 Melrose Ave., WeHo, 323-895-7880.

Black-and-grey acetate frames with marble, $555.

THE LIST Designer and stylist Andrea Lieberman,, beloved for her effortless, sophisticated ready-to-wear line A.L.C. (alcltd.com), ), debutes a handbag collection this spring. Here, her favorite places to show off new fold-over briefcase clutches, carryalls and boxy cross-body bags in leopard pony hair and chestnut-brown leather: • LILY ET CIE My happy place. The one-of–a-kind pieces—think Lacroix and Kawakubo—are unbelievable. 310-724-5757. • HOT 8 YOGA The only way to really clear my head. 310-986-6420. • HINOKI & THE BIRD For the pumpkin toast with miso jam. 310-552-1200.. • JUST ONE EYE The books, art and clothes are all so perfectly curated. 888-563-6858. • LACMA I keep bringing friends to the James Turrell exhibit. 323-8576000. • THE BRENTWOOD COUNTRY MART For jewelry scanning at Broken English (310-458-2724)) and the mint ice cream at Sweet Rose Creamery (310-260-2663).

RUMOR HAS IT

California expat Rick Owens is on the hunt for a new home for his avant-garde wear in Los Angeles. It would be a homecoming for the designer, who had his first atelier on Las Palmas Avenue in the mid-’90s. rickowens.eu.

BASIC INSTINCTS

Black crossbody bag, $895. LEFT A look from A.L.C.’s spring ready-to-wear line.

Former L.A. resident, stylist and Kitson buyer Christina Minasian launches Chalk with a debut collection of price-conscious cutout cocktail dresses and tailored separates. Working with a neutral palette, Minasian uses sheer fabrics with leather and lace details to bring a polished finish to contemporary street wear. chalkthelabel.com.

HAT TRICK Creatures of Comfort proprietor and L.A. native Jade Lai is topping off her spring line with wovenraffia hats inspired by ’60 Capri and crafted by N.Y.’s millinery master Kokin. 7971 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-655-7855. Natural raffia Yasmine hat with hand-dyed indigo band, $450.

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Field dress in white neoprene, $352.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGENY AND MEGAN MEYER. LIEBERMAN: COURTESY OF A.L.C. CHALK: SPREADHOUSE

ANDREA LIEBERMAN’S L.A.

fashion FROM TOP

THE PERFECT PAIR

Former C Magazine and Vogue staffer Florence Kane with Vogue contributor Jane Herman Bishop (of the Ron Herman family) launched the blog Jean Stories in November for people who love denim as much as they do. The site spotlights well-worn pairs and new purchases of noteworthy fashion friends, including Venice-based jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth and L.A. handbag designer Clare Vivier. Visitors can

also shop the looks and share their own obsessions via Instagram @jeanstories. “A lot of it happened organically,” Herman Bishop explains of their subjects. “Some have been colleagues of ours…others simply have style that we admire.” Some current favorites? “Right now I’m really loving a pair of relaxed skinnies from Koral,” says Kane—for Herman Bishop, Nudie’s Grim Tim style. jeanstories.com.

SAN FRANCISCO

SNAKE CHARMER

Salvatore Ferragamo is releasing a limited-edition bag exclusive to San Francisco. The pink snakeskin carryall in the classic “Sophia” shape was influenced by S.F.’s Legion of Honor museum—a grand French neoclassical palace. 236 Post St., S.F., 415-391-6565; ferragamo.com. Blush mini bag, $2,650.

BEVERLY HILLS

Vera Wang

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90210 Part-time Hollywood resident Vera Wang is moving her Melrose Avenue ﬂagship to Rodeo Drive this spring. The new locale is styled by N.Y.’s Brian Sawyer and will house the brand’s bridal couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections. 428 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H; verawang.com.

WRITTEN BY MEGAN MEYER. KANE/HERMAN BISHOP: JUSTIN BISHOP. THE LINE: TAYLOR JEWELL. LOVE: ELLE MULIARCHYK

The Line’s Vanessa Traina, Morgan Wendelborn and Kate Wendelborn; Vogue’s Sally Singer; jewelry designer Pamela Love.

Jane Herman Bishop and Florence Kane

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P a s a d e n a.

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fashion spotlight

Danielle Sherman

Wanderlust

Edun’s new creative director, Danielle Sherman, brings her travels to the runway

FROM ABOVE

Sherman during her trip to Africa. Edun cofounder Ali Hewson and Sherman in Africa.

BELOW, FROM LEFT

A snapshot of Edun’s Spring 2014 show. Ali Hewson. Looks from Edun’s Spring 2014 ready-to-wear collection.

It’s been a whirlwind! I’ve loved every second of it,” says Danielle Sherman, who came from T by Alexander Wang last April to assume the role of creative director of Edun. Previously, the L.A. native cofounded and launched The Row with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. Among the highlights of her first year at the company’s helm was a summer trip to Tanzania, Kenya and Madagascar, where she visited the brand’s factories (founded in 2005 by Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson, Edun brings jobs and trade to Africa by sourcing much of its production there) and met with the artisans with whom she collaborated for the spring line. “We partnered with URU in Tanzania and Penny Winter in Kenya, who are both new to this brand,” she says. “It’s these relationships that are very important to Edun and will hopefully continue to grow.” The trip was equal parts industry and inspiration for Sherman, who also brought her fiancé, photographer Todd Selby (see page 145). “In Tanzania, we visited the Stone Town in Zanzibar, which was a trading mecca in the 19th century,” she recalls. “I was especially drawn to the intrinsic sense of symmetry, balance and repetition in the small city.” Those shapes inevitably found their way onto the runway. “The collection was about taking graphic elements and interpreting them into classic silhouettes,” she says of the pants, wrap skirts and jackets. Sherman envisions the line evolving to encompass lifestyle elements, like home and eyewear. “We designed all of the furniture in our New York and Paris showrooms,” she notes. “So you never know what’s to come.” edun.com. •

SHERMAN (TOP 3): TODD SELBY. HEWSON: HELENA CHRISTENSEN. RUNWAY: NATALIE POETTE. MODELS: DAN LECCA

BY MOLLY CREEDEN

WHERE BLUE JEANS ARE A STATE OF MIND

luckybrand.com

*Share your blue jeans inspirations #californiadreaming

fashion

AU NATUREL Let springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s earthen-hued totes, mules and shades set the tone for an urban safari PHOTOGRAPHED BY JUSTIN COIT

Etro bag, $3,570. Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra mules, $805. Bally sandals, $350. Marc Jacobs sunglasses. Longchamp tote, $765. ON MODEL Equipment blouse, $208. Michael Kors skirt, $595. Mulberry clutch, $1,200. David Yurman cuff, $625, and watch. FROM TOP

FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN

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B E V E R LY H I LLS - Beverly Drive LO S A N G E LE S - Beverly Center www.maje.com

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FROM TOP CĂŠline

bag, $2,450, Neiman Marcus. Banana Republic sunglasses. Tom Ford pumps, $1,250. Brunello Cucinelli sandals, $1,385. Delfina Delettrez ring, $1,885, Opening Ceremony. ON MODEL Salvatore Ferragamo blazer. HermĂ¨s top. Joie shorts, $158. Reed Krakoff bag, $2,190. David Yurman rings from $1,550.

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8459 MELROSE PLACE, LOS ANGELES, CA 90069 W W W. E Q U I P M E N T F R . C O M

fashion Vacheron Constantin watch. Salvatore Ferragamo heels, $1,150. Donna Karan sandals, $695. Guess sunglasses, $82. Louis Vuitton bag, $3,700. ON MODEL Michael Kors top, $3,995. Ralph Lauren Blue Label trousers, $445. Valentino Garavani bag, $1,995. Joie sandals, $255. David Yurman watch, $5,000, crossover ring, $850, and champagne citrine ring, $4,600.

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HAIR & MAKEUP: KENDRA RICHARDS USING HEIR ATELIER AT CLOUTIER REMIX. MANICURIST: EMI KUDO USING CHANEL AT OPUS BEAUTY. FASHION INTERN: KATHERINE SHUKHMAN SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

FROM TOP

FEATURING THE ANORAK JACKET, UTILITY BLOUSE AND LACE SKIRT

L I F E I S I N T H E D E TA I L S

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fashion jewelry box Mish New York earrings, $5,800.

Chanel High Jewelry watch.

IN THE CLEAR Perfect layered with color or on their own, springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s translucent pieces are easy to wear and hard to forget Roberto Cavalli Boucheron necklace.

Baccarat ring, $590, South Coast Plaza.

David Webb cuff.

Pomellato ring.

C 108 MARCH 2014

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

Vhernier earrings.

FEATURING THE CHAMBRAY BLAZER, BIB TEXTURED BUTTON-DOWN AND THE CHAMBRAY SHORT

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Events Laura Dunn, NJ Goldston

Susan Casden Linda Valle, Veronica M. Toub

Kendall Conrad

Rosetta and Balthazar Getty

Liane Weintraub, Isaac Joseph

Colleen and Caroline Bell

Angela Janklow and Jeffrey Stein

Joelle and Mike Hamontree

Susan Franklin, Debra Gunn Julie Downing Jaffe

SOUTH COAST PLAZA

South Coast Plaza joined C Magazine and the team behind Giorgio’s for a night of disco and dancing at The Standard Hollywood. Bryan Rabin hosted the soiree, while DJ Adam XII spun hits, bringing everyone back to the ’70s. The night celebrated the decadence of the era with a delicious menu by Chef Nina Clemente, a grand piano topped with cookies, cupcakes and multiple layer cakes by Sweet & Saucy Shop, and red roses and orchids from Empty Vase.

Tracy Schroeder, Jassel Lizardi

Angelique Soave

Fran Wittenberg Cashen, Ellen Herman

Stephanie Steinman, Anne Crawford

Carlo Traglio, Kathy Hilton

CHOPARD

Chopard USA President & CEO Marc Hruschka and C Ambassador Jennifer Segerstrom hosted a cocktail reception to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Happy Sport timepiece collection. Guests gathered at the Jewel Court of South Coast Plaza to preview the exhibition and kick off the season with bites by Crème de la Crème foods and wines by Robert Mondavi Winery. Chopard donated a portion of sales to the Orange County Museum of Art’s award-winning school and tours programs.

PROMOTION

Brigette Romanek

SOUTH COAST PLAZA: STEFANIE KEENAN. CHOPARD: MIKE GARDNER. SAKS: DONATO SARDELLA

Gelila Assefa Puck

Anton and Jennifer Segerstrom, Marc Hruschka

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE C’s Jennifer Hale and Vhernier President Carlo Traglio joined Saks Fifth Avenue to host an exclusive viewing of Vhernier’s latest collection. The ladies of Beverly Hills flocked to the Gagosian Gallery for a sit-down luncheon while models showcased the jewels.

Shiva Rose

Brooke Davenport

ARBITER OF TASTE THE AMERICANA AT BRAND DINING COLLECTION

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Authentic Botanical Perfumery Available at MAXFIELD 8825 MELROSE AVENUE LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA | MAXFIELDLA.COM STRANGE INVISIBLE PERFUMES 1138 ABBOT KINNEY BOULEVARD VENICE, CALIFORNIA | SIPERFUMES.COM

THE BODY SHOP Eva Guerrand-Hermès works out a solution to tired fitness wear WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

Eva Guerrand-Hermès believes women want more than wicking and reflecting out of their sportswear; they want freedom, versatility and world betterment—and a little lace and cashmere wouldn’t hurt either. The Montecito- and Paris-based co-owner (with CEO Bernard Mariette) of athletic clothing label Lolë sees her company as an antidote to the “pure-sweat classic model” by offering separates that aspire to the soft lines of Donna Karan and the structural vision of Jean-Paul Gaultier while facilitating a modern woman’s lifestyle and wellness. >>

ELENA BROWER: COURTESY OF LOLË

Vinaya leggings, $120, and Lona bra, $60.

EDITED BY JENNY MURRAY MARCH 2014

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HABIT FORMING

World-renowned L.A.-based oncologist Dr. David B. Agus outlines the secret to reaching centenarian status in his new handbook for healthy living, A Short Life. “People want preGuide to a Long Life scribed rules,” the author of New York Times bestseller The End of Illness explains of the 65 dos and don’ts included within, which touch on everything from vitamins to airport scanners. “And while nobody can do all of them, based on your value system and where you want to focus, you can choose the prescription that’s right for you,” he adds. Schuster. $18; Simon & Schuster

WATER BABY Celeb favorite jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth conjures the sun-baked essence of her native Venice Beach for an eponymous new fragrance exclusive to Barneys New York. “I wanted it to feel like you just got out of the ocean— kind of salty and like you have Coppertone sunscreen on, but more sophisticated than that,” she says of the white ﬂoral scent. $195; Barneys New York. C 114 MARCH 2014

WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN. LOLË, GRAND PALAIS: COURTESY OF LOLË; STORE: BLUE CALEEL; PORTRAIT: T.C. REINER. IRENE NEUWIRTH: COURTESY OF IRENE NEUWIRTH

FROM TOP Lolë White Tour at the Grand Palais in Paris. Asha pants, $200. Lona bra, $60. Lolë’s Santa Barbara flagship store.

<< That final point prompted the 2010 launch of Lolë’s White Tour: a series of globe-spanning large-scale yoga sessions that lured thousands of practitioners to classes in awe-inspiring venues such as Paris’s Grand Palais and Montreal’s Olympic Stadium. This year’s circuit will include stops in L.A. and New York. “Well-being is at our core,” says Eva Guerrand-Hermès Guerrand-Hermès of Lolë, which stands for Live Out Loud Everyday. “So we wanted to create a collaborative movement to bring people together in a unique and memorable way.” Lolë’s newly launched White Label takes its name from the traveling retreat and marks the brand’s debut luxury line, with pieces that range from perfectly draped pants in sand-washed silk to lingerie-inspired sports bras with sheer racerback detailing. And while the looks don’t come wrapped in the iconic orange box synonymous with Guerrand-Hermès’s family name, they do share the fashion house’s consummately French sophistication: “There is a reminiscence of eveningwear everywhere,” says Guerrand-Hermès. “But with a daytime wearability.” 714 State St., Santa Barbara, 805770-7948; lolewomen.com.

Irene Neuwirth (left) collaborated with perfumer Ralf Schwieger for Barneys’ third installment in the Designer Fragrance Collection, which balances notes of jasmine and rose with neroli and coconut.

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Silver Linings Playbook

Hollye Jacobs offers advice to cancer patients on how to react, recover and get their sexy back BY MEGAN MEYER

fter being diagnosed with breast cancer in October 2010, Santa Barbara local Hollye Jacobs turned to writing on her personal health and lifestyle blog, The Silver Pen, to share her experience with friends and family. The site quickly gained attention and has now evolved into Jacobs’ newest work, The Silver Lining: A Supportive & Insightful Guide to Breast Cancer. The book—which is illustrated with photographer Elizabeth Messina’s unretouched images of Jacobs throughout treatment, is filled with helpful tips and inspiration that reminds readers to look for the good. As Jacobs explains, “We don’t make the cancer experience beautiful, but we do add some beauty to the experience.”

NOTES OF SPRING FROM LEFT Jo Malone Wisteria & Violet, $120, jomalone.com. Valentino Valentina Assoluto, $88, Barneys New York. Christian Dior Les Elixirs Précieux in Musc, $300, Bergdorf Goodman exclusive. Etro Jacquard, $90, Etro, Beverly Hills. Gucci Guilty Stud, $80, gucci.com.

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The Silver Lining, $29.99, Atria Books; thesilverpen.com.

was because I spent my adolescence in the middle of Indiana during the eighties, when seemingly everyone (including boyfriends one, two, and three) had Mohawks. He just chuckled and said, “Sure, whatever you want.” To Mohawkville I went. Buzzzzzzzz. Oh my goodness, did we ever laugh. It was the first time I had laughed—really laughed—since I began treatment. It felt so incredibly good. When the deed was done and I was bald, I realized, as is the case with everything in life, that the anticipation was far worse than the reality. I shaved my head and now it was bald. It was as simple as that. I put on my new wig (which the HOTY and I picked out on the colitis tour of L.A.) and was ready to walk out into the world. While I didn’t quite feel like “bald is beautiful” (on me), I did leave the barbershop feeling that “bald ain’t so bad.” •

THE SLIVER LINING: ELIZABETH MESSINA

Two weeks after my first dose of chemo, my head felt prickly and itchy, which, I assumed, was the precursor to hair loss (bingo!). The best way to describe the feeling is as if I had worn a hat all day, from morning until night, then took it off and needed a really good rub to get rid of the prickles and itches. In addition to the prickles and itches, I Author, had clumps of hair coming out in my hand. survivor, Big clumps with absolutely no pattern RN, MS and MSW whatsoever. Ewwww. So, with this unsolicited Hollye outpouring of hair follicles, I knew it was Jacobs. time to shave my head… My barber was the most amazing man imaginable. He was kind, gentle, thoughtful, sensitive, and he had a fabulous sense of humor!… Before he started, I asked him whether he would give me a Mohawk (I had secretly always wanted to see myself in a Mohawk). Why? Heaven only knows—perhaps to add a little humor to the situation? Or maybe it

THE CONTINUED DISCOVERY OF THE CALIFORNIA DREAM. Born in 1964 when the youthful American spirit was at its pinnacle, SeaVees is the story of Authentic California.

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Located in the heart of the Las Vegas Strip, ARIA Resort & Casino is a AAA Five Diamond Award-winning destination that is different by design. From technologically advanced guest rooms to world-class dining and entertainment, ARIA will leave you breathless. For reservations and to sign up for exclusive offers, visit aria.com.

GUESS, the global lifestyle brand famous for its iconic ad campaigns and trendsetting denim, is proud to introduce GUESS Originals, a collection of women’s apparel inspired by the roots and heritage of the brand. The collection perfectly marries the nostalgia of past GUESS styles with fashion-forward denim styling through a modern lens. guess.com.

Truly Zac Posen is head-turning, high-wattage glamour. It’s style that celebrates every curve, that revels in femininity. It’s the confidence that comes with feeling perfectly embraced by a gown’s silhouette. It’s a love note to women everywhere—to their authenticity, and the radiance that comes when a woman is truly herself. See the collection of bridal gowns, social occasion dresses, and accessories at davidsbridal.com/trulyzacposen.

S:7.125”

It is our entire automotive philosophy set in motion. Again.

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Introducing the 2014 S-Class. 127 years ago, the founder of Mercedes-Benz challenged his employees to deliver “the best or nothing.” The 2014 S-Class is proof that his words still resonate to this day. Building on its own history of innovation, the groundbreaking new S-Class features dual 12.3" high-resolution screens, hot stone massage seating and an aromatic filtration system on the inside, while outside, a revolutionary MAGIC BODY CONTROL system uses cameras to scan the road for imperfections and instantly adjust the suspension for a superior ride. The 2014 S-Class is the flagship Mercedes-Benz that not only makes a statement, but answers a calling.

2014 S 550 shown in Iridium Silver metallic paint. May include optional equipment. No system, regardless of how advanced, can overcome the laws of physics or correct careless driving. Please always wear your seat belt. ©2014 Authorized Mercedes-Benz Dealers For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.

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MARK ADAMS PICTURES

In this Hancock Park garden, a steel trellis provides shade and a living space that can be heated and lit with LED lights.

The Hard Life

L.A. landscape architect Scott Shrader leaves the grass behind BY ANDREA STANFORD

EDITED BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD MARCH 2014

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In Santa Monica, Shrader accented a 1940s-era home with Japanese maples and boxwood globes, he says, “to create a very simple but pleasing feel.” An inviting firepit is a useful focal point. Scott Shrader. Gray brick was reclaimed from China and layered in a herringbone pattern. The Hancock Park project’s gravel garden was planted in a Mediterranean palette. An outdoor room, protected from the elements. FROM TOP

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MARK ADAMS PICTURES

t does seem a bit ironic that in sunny Southern California, landscape architect Scott Shrader’s signature backyard boasts not a single blade of grass. While his sustainable terrains represent a trend gaining momentum statewide, Shrader, who earned his master’s degree in landscape architecture and trained with John T. Lyle of the Lyle Center for Regenerative Studies, is far from new to all of this. (Lyle, a former Cal Poly Pomona landscape architecture professor, was a 1970s pioneer of available renewable resources.) He credits another mentorinstructor for his encyclopedic knowledge of plants that are native to and compatible with the CA climate; Bob Perry penned the 2010 bible Landscape Plants for California Gardens. “Don’t trust any landscaper who hasn’t heard of it,” he says. In a state where year-round al fresco entertaining is virtually de rigueur, Shrader’s talent is the outdoor room— one complete with the ideal amount of shade, often with trellises supporting heating and LED dimming. Because he’s also a licensed landscape contractor, multilayered outdoor spaces are as stunning as they are responsible. His reliance on permeable gravel and stones in lieu of lawns encourages drainage and prevents runoff. To that end, he utilizes unique appointments that otherwise would have been tossed aside at a construction zone. Centuryold pavers, for example, have been reclaimed from a Guatemalan plaza, while antique bricks of the perfect gray hue are reintroduced in a herringbone pattern. Environmentally sensitive restrictions in native plantings and hardscaping does have its tonal challenges. Shrader recalls a prospective client who requested one particular color story. “My practice is different than interior design. I mean, Mother Nature’s palette is not unlimited!” That said, he’s experimenting beyond his go-tos (like versatile dwarf olive trees). Shrader recently completed a Santa Monica garden that offers an East Coast sensibility, thanks in part to a newfound favorite: the coral bark Japanese maple. “The morphing colors of the bark and leaves offer a palette beyond green, white and purple—and a change of season.” shraderdesign.com. •

SPRING AHEAD BURBERRY

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home

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Monelle

Totah, Gary McNatton. HG tapers. Dinner party musts, from Roma tureens to sea grass and braided placemats. HG linens are handmade in S.F. Wooden planks and boards. R. Nichols candles.

Masters of the House Monelle Totah and Gary McNatton opened the stylishly appointed Hudson Grace on Sacramentro Street in 2012 with one thing in mind: entertaining. The award-winning tabletop and fragrance design vets (Williams-Sonoma, Banana Republic, Restoration Hardware, Dyptique) stock a fresh, modern mix: white serving platters and planks for cheese, party-friendly glassware, hotel silver and adorably chic R. Nichols candles, proprietary HG olive oil, and linens in dozens of hues. Late last year, the duo expanded to the Marin Country Mart (a branch in Montecito opens March 1). Here, a couple of planning tips

from the pros: • A welcome table filled with big bowls of abundant seasonal fruit or unique branches sets the mood. • When arranging the menu, ask your guests if they have food allergies. • Signature cocktails add a touch of sophistication and cool. (McNatton is drinking sidecars these days; Totah loves a martini.) • Dim the lights! Use candles for the perfect look: unscented where food is served; scented throughout other rooms. R. Nichols candles can leave a wonderful memory of the evening. Don’t forget hurricanes outside for a beautiful glow. Marin Country Mart; Montecito Country Mart; hudsongracesf.com.

PASADENA

SHEAR LUXURY All Hollywood Regency without a trace of Grandma’s perfume, House of Honey hits spring redesigned with exclusive capsule collections, including this new sling seat by N.Y. designer Taylor Forrest. 1518 Mission St., Pas., 626-441-2454. SAN FRANCISCO

Coming Soon

Serena & Lily’s latest goods are as vacationhome ready as ever: formal—but kid-friendly —tufted sofas, lanterns and crisp bedding in chambrays and blues (no doubt inspired by their bayside headquarters in Sausalito). A Pac Heights brick-and-mortar is in the works. serenaandlily.com.

Taylor Forrest Fur Chair, $2,800, houseofhoney.la.

Chambray border frame duvet, $180-$280, and shams, $68-$78; navy French ring sheet set, $130-$250; navy diamond lumbar pillow cover, $68.

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THE ILLUSIONIST It’s no surprise that L.A. designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard named some of his new Schumacher wallcoverings after Italian interiors master Renzo Mongiardino; the theatrical designer took simple materials like cardboard and fashioned new dimensions. Bullard, too, finds unusual depth and polish in Carrara, lapis and carnelian hues for a collection as ready for a Zeffirelli set as it is for your powder room. To the trade; martynlawrencebullard. com; fschumacher.com. FROM TOP Martyn Lawrence Bullard for Schumacher wallcoverings: Florence in Lapis; Romeo in Carrara; and Florence in Carrara.

WRITTEN BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD. HUDSON GRACE: ANDI HATCH PHOTOGRAPHY

LARKSPUR

home

Fine art and craft meet in Lalique’s redesigned L.A. showroom

ABOVE Doors for L.A.’s Oviatt Building, c. 1928. RIGHT René Lalique.

It was astonishing: worldly haberdasher James Oviatt’s Downtown L.A. building on South Olive Street and its fixtures, doors, elevators and windows. Thirty tons of glass passed through the Panama Canal to fulfill René Lalique’s vision in 1928— among the most lavish Art Deco detailing the city had seen (and still one of Lalique’s top achievements). A marvel, perhaps, but this ornamentation was his craft. As relevant as ever in L.A., the storied French brand, colorful Perruches Vases and all, is set to unveil a redesigned interiors boutique this month. It’s a home for its bespoke services, classic pieces and introductions—like Olivia Putman’s ocean liner-nod Orgue LED chandelier, and an upcoming vase collection with architect Zaha Hadid. The heart of its decor efforts is the newly minted Lalique Maison, a collaboration with U.K. designers Lady Tina Green and Pietro Mingarelli. In contrasting ivory and black lacquers, gleaming linens and case goods sparkle with iconic motifs: an ebony bar affixed with crystal dragon pulls; frosted grapes paneling skyscraper-like lamps. Seen in all its glorious facets, the revived artistry of the heritage house is crystal clear. 238 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-271-7892; lalique.com.

GARDEN PARTY

Get your Post-its ready for Gardens Are for Living: Design Inspiration for Outdoor Spaces ($50, Rizzoli). With imagery ranging from midcentury Slim Aarons to her painted illustrations and client projects, so-very-Californian Elysian Landscapes designer Judy Kameon shows that “being outside is often the better choice.” “The book began with how I found historic inspiration and translated it to my own garden,” she explains. What’s more, the most useful features need not be permanent at all. Sling the mattress from one of her Plain Air daybeds onto the ground for movie night, or cart art supplies to the patio for the afternoon. Dynamic features such as tire swings and raised garden beds can be removed when outgrown. “If you provide something families will interact with, it becomes part of the day-to-day experience.” While Kameon recommends kids have one of their own, a playhouse can prove irresistible to all. “The first party a client had, [their teepee] was filled with grown-ups!” 213-380-3185; elysianlandscapes.com. Beneath the olive trees, a Heath Ceramics-tiled water feature with Plain Air furniture and striking encaustic Granada Tile underfoot.

Movie night done right: daybed mattress on the floor, outdoor projector and lanterns.

Studio Andrée Putman’s LED Orgue chandelier. BELOW Intricate pillows from the Green-designed Maison collection.

Lady Tina Green

4 FRONT YARD PLANTS FOR THE NOT-SO-GREEN THUMB

Blue Flame Agave

Bloodgood Japanese Maple

Large Purple Aeonium

Cassa Blue Flax Lily

Kameon says kids should have a space of their own.

WRITTEN BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD. LALIQUE MAISON, PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF LALIQUE. CUSHIONS: MIKE BURNS PHOTOGRAPHY. GREEN: AGI SIMOES

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Y WEIGHT GAIN WAKE-UP CALL came in a fitting room last February. I needed another size up… yet again. That was it. I went to my car, called JumpstartMD and made an appointment for the next day. –

Dawn Agnew

MY BEFORE Typical mom stress, poor nutrition and no “me-time” took their toll on my waistline. As my weight went up, my health and my self-esteem headed downhill. MY AFTER I’m 35 pounds down, and my waistline is 12 inches smaller! I wear 4s or maybe 6s now, and clothes are fun again. Thank you Me Now - Shopping is fun again! JumpstartMD for restoring my health – and my joy of shopping! MY STORY I’m not a model or celebrity spokesperson; I’m a Bay Area wife and mother who’s a real JumpstartMD patient. If you’re like me and Me, this time you’d rather lose your extra weight than “watch” it, I hope my transforming weight loss story will inspire your own! last year

A year from now, you’ll wish you had started today.

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SHAKING IT UP

A top chef’s pantry, a blacksmith’s secret salt, a dialed-in culinary store—here, the newest ways to relish California’s spice world

KELLY ISHIKAWA

Sacramento Street destination March has launched online with everything from customcrafted islands to kosher salt. marchsf.com.

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD

menu Angelo Garro and his Nonna.

In 2006’s bestseller The Omnivore’s Dilemma, there’s a rather poignant chapter about Michael Pollan’s hunter-gatherer mentor. A blacksmith with a storied kitchen in a San Francisco forge, Angelo Garro travels with the author to the Sonoma Coast, where they forage for chanterelles and hunt wild boar. The outspoken Pollan has shied from endorsements; however, in his words, “My debt to Angelo is so deep, and his salt so special, that I have no choice. Rule broken.” You see, anyone who has picked grapes or pickled herring with Garro, or attended one of his feasts, has likely clamored for his salt. “About 20-some years ago, I started to make a mix that I was going to use for rubbing on meat, and fish and vegetables. And I did it and gave it to friends, and they loved it—and came back again and again and again,” says Garro. “I’ve been sharing recipes forever—except for the recipe of the salt.” Garro is native to sun-drenched Siracusa, where wild fennel grows rampant and sun-drenched Nero d’Avola grapes grow plump in volcanic soil. The Sicilian wind carries ancient history along with the fragrance of Tarocco oranges. Both his mother and “Nonna” taught him to cook. “My grandmother said, ‘As long as you have black pepper, red pepper and salt, you can make everything taste OK.’” The artisan blacksmith learned his trade in Switzerland and established a distinguished career in Toronto. He decamped to San Francisco in 1983, and he has remained a master of ironwork, from romantic balustrades to Omnivore Salt, cast sculpture. During this time, Garro’s Renaissance Forge has become far more than a metal $10/6 oz., fabrication studio. From the rafters, salumi dangles like pendant lighting as it cures. Barrels of omnivoresalt.com. wine wait, and animals are whole-roasted. Pasta, sunny from the semolina, is from scratch. Everything is handmade. Of the convivial dinners, says longtime grape-picking companion and business associate Beth Malik, “Friends bring friends. It’s always growing with new people.” A year ago, Malik—a former product development specialist at Levi Strauss—told Garro about crowdfunding website Kickstarter. (She would soon help with sourcing and production.) Garro says the time was right: “I’m semiretired. I still do some metalwork, but not like in the old days. I could start doing something.” CONTINUED ON PAGE 200

THE CURE Selmelier Mark Bitterman has penned the definitive salt block guide. $25, Andrews McMeel Publishing.

ON THE BLOCK: CUCUMBER SALAD 1 (8x12x2-inch or 10x10x2-inch) salt block 4 small Kirby (or 2 med. English) cucumbers, cut in ¼-inch slices

2 T. extra virgin olive oil 1 small garlic clove, minced ¼ small red onion, finely chopped ¼ t. ground black pepper

Arrange the cucumber slices in a single layer on the salt block, as though setting up a checkerboard (you will have to do this in batches). Let sit for 2 minutes. Flip the slices and let cure for another minute. Remove the slices from the block and put in a clean, lint-free kitchen towel. Wrap the towel around the slices and wring purposefully but gently to remove any excess moisture. Put the cucumbers in a serving bowl. Wipe off the block and repeat the process with the remaining cucumber slices. Add the oil, garlic, onion, pepper, vinegar, and dill to the bowl. Toss to coat evenly. Serve immediately, or refrigerate for up to 2 days.

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1 T. rice wine vinegar or white wine vinegar 2 T. chopped fresh dill SERVES 4

GARRO AND NONNA: URSULA HELLER. SALT (2): LAURIE FRANKEL

Worth His Salt

Photo Credit: Auberge du Soleil

Celebrate the elemental connection between wine & the arts in the Napa Valley...Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to stay a little longer. In addition to its internationally renowned wine and food, the Napa Valley has yet another rich, diverse and remarkable aspect to offer visitors: the extraordinary arts exhibits available in wineries throughout the valley. Come explore what makes the Napa Valley legendary. For special lodging offers and a complete list of participants, go to VisitNapaValley.com/ArtsinApril

menu LOS ANGELES

PERFECT PLATE

O SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

The Pinot Files Gavin Chanin, the young winemaker with status on culinaria’s various “30 under 30” and “40 under 40” lists, now offers his sophomore effort, Lutum Wines. Wines Latin for “soil” or “dirt,” the name reflects a true expression of the terroir. An effort with veteran Bill Price, the 2012 vintage culls grapes from destination vineyards such as La Encantada in Sta. Rita Hills (where boutique makers like Habit and Sandhi are as common as the afternoon breeze). The next release arrives in May. $50-$60; lutumwines.com. FROM TOP

LOS ANGELES

GIRL TALK

wearing a linen apron, $68. Acacia salad bowl, $120.

WRITTEN BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD. LUTUM: ANDREW SCHONEBERGER. REPUBLIQUE: RYAN TANAKA. SLATKIN: GINA CONTE

AIR APPARENT Not unlike the Belgian merveilleux currently the rage in N.Y., ’s specialty pâtisserie Bo Nuage’s heavenly confection is a sandwich of whipped cream between two meringues, enrobed in a soft cream “cloud,” topped with delicate chocolate curls. 8010 Melrose Ave., L.A., 310-880-2065; bonuage.com.

As part of her Farmgirl series, Beverly Hills cooking instructor and tastemaker Dana Slatkin has a busy season ahead, including a Great Freshpectations class on the spring roster and a new online shop. Her new essentials? A giant acacia-wood bowl for fresh salads; eco-friendly nonstick pans; adorable prep bowls; and a can’t-live-without digital scale. 90210farmgirl.com.

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The vaulted structure was originally built by Charlie Chaplin.

La Encantada Vineyard. 2011 Lutum Pinot Noir, La Rinconada Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, $50.

The design by J. Marx Atelier accentuates the rainbow of 15 flavors. RIGHT Strawberry nuage, $6.

FROM LEFT Slatkin

n the former site of 1990s trendsetter—and chef incubator—Campanile comes a worthy successor: S.D.-born, European-trained, Californiadistinguished (Patina, Bastide, L’Auberge Carmel, Church & State) chef Walter Manzke’s years-awaited bistronomie project, République. 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310-362-6115; republiquela.com.

Corner view, corner view, or corner view? From a corner window in every guest room to the soaring three-story lobby, every view is an exceptional one. Aria.com Live the M life at this MGM Resorts International速 destination.

menu pantry

What’s the tool prep cooks swear by? Ever wonder which olive oil makes a.o.c.’s romesco a revelation? Chef Suzanne Goin of Lucques, a.o.c., Tavern and The Larder opens up the back-of-house and shares her must-haves (and new obsessions) 1. EVERYDAY OLIVE OIL California Olive Ranch Arbequina Oil. $16.69, shop.californiaoliveranch.com. 2. AND VINEGAR Sánchez Romate sherry vinegar. chefshop.com. 3. ON COOKING SALT VERSUS FINISHING SALT I started out cooking with kosher salt, and sometimes those habits do not die. Your fingers get used to a perfect pinch, and it’s so hard to switch. For a finishing salt, I like a Portuguese Flor de Sal we get from Mitica. forevercheese.com. 4. DAIRY Nothing beats real French butter, but I also love Straus Family Creamery in Tomales Bay. strausfamilycreamery.com. 5. THE BEE’S KNEES I’m sort of obsessed with honey. When a friend goes somewhere exotic and 6 asks if I want anything, I always ask for a local honey. I love thick, creamy, white honey. My fave of the moment is Star Thistle Honey from Bee Raw Honeys in Colorado. $14/10.5 oz., beeraw.com. 6. UNDER THE SEA Anchovies. Always in salt and always whole. I like Agostino Recca brand. $14.25, amazon.com. 7. CELESTIAL SEASONINGS Le Sanctuaire has wonderful spices. Also, The Spice House in Chicago is available online. 1 Seek out a small local purveyor, if you can find one. Shichimi Togarashi, $9, le-sanctuaire.com. 8. FLOUR POWER Giusto’s flour mill. Organic Whole Wheat 00 Flour, $12/5 lb. bag, giustos.com.

Suzanne Goin 5

9. DO YOU FEED A WILD YEAST STARTER?

a.o.c.

Yes, our wholesale bakery supplies The Larder. larderbakingco.com. 10. NUTS FOR... Hazelnuts from Trufflebert Farm in Oregon (life-changing!); Santa Barbara Pistachios (mind-blowing!) and S.B. walnuts by La Nogalera (try their delicious walnut oil, too). trufflebertfarm.com; santabarbarapistachios.com; lanogalera. com. 11. LEGUMES Zürsun Idaho Heirloom Beans. We don’t even soak them because they are so fresh. Calypso beans, zursunbeans.com. 12. CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT A cast-iron pan. 13. MOST USEFUL KNIFE FOR KITCHEN PREP

14 7

Two: a chef’s knife and a paring knife. 14. KEY TOOL I always love a mortar and pestle. Magnus Lundstöm mortar and pestle, quitokeeto.com. 15. BAR ESSENTIAL A bartender! 16. WOOD WORKS Spoon (Blackcreek Mercantile for March sugar maple ladle, $150, marchsf.com). lucques.com; aocwinebar.com; tavernla.com; larderatburtonway.com. •

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GOIN: DAVID YOUNG-WOLFF. LARDER: AARON COOK/AACK STUDIO. AGOSTINO RECCA: AGOSTINO RECCA. BEE RAW HONEY: BEE RAW HONEY. CALYPSO BEANS: ZURSUN IDAHO HEIRLOOM BEANS. WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR: GIUSTO’S. LADLE: KELLY ISHIKAWA. OLIVE OIL: CALIFORNIA OLIVE RANCH. A.O.C.: AARON COOK/AACK STUDIO. SHICHIMI TOGARASHI: LE SANCTUAIRE. MAGNUS: QUITOKEETO.COM. VINEGAR: SANCHEZ ROMATE

Shopping List

2 8 E A S T S I X T Y T H I R D S T R E E T, N E W Y O R K , N E W Y O R K 212 838 1400 R E S E RV A T I O N S @ L O W E L L H O T E L . C O M W W W. L O W E L L H O T E L . C O M

The ringleader, Karl Lagerfeld.

RODEO STAR

COURTESY OF CHANEL

Chanel hosts a no-holds-barred hoedown in Dallas, Texas Late last year, some 900 guests, including Lauren Hutton, Dakota Fanning, Alexa Chung, China Chow and the new face of the line, Kristen Stewart, arrived (via private jets) at Dallas’ Fair Park to preview Chanel’s Métiers d’Art Pre-Fall 2014 collection. Preceded by a drive-in screening of The Return, starring actress Geraldine Chaplin (also in attendance) as Coco Chanel, the event featured a dirt-paved runway rife with cowboy and Indian >>

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY JENNY MURRAY MARCH 2014

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Poppy Delevingne

Chanel’s Pre-Fall 2014 show.

<< references and denim and fringe to boot. Designer Karl Lagerfeld described it as “not Dallas cheerleader” but “the West of the Mexican border in the time of the Civil War, a more romantic Texas fantasy.” And a BBQ, bull riding and line dancing kept the after-party kickin’. chanel.com. Atlanta de Cadenet, Laura Love Kristen Stewart

DOIN’ DALLAS DINE Café Pacific For birthdays and power lunches, the place to see and be seen. 214-526-1170. • Le Bilboquet This French-inspired Manhattan export is the hot spot in 469-730-2937. • Mi Cocina A popular, casual family Tex-Mex town. 469-730-2937 eatery. 214-521-6426. SHOP Forty Five Ten With a little bit of everything, this is the chicest place to shop. 214-559-4510. • CBD Provisions A brasserie and so much more. 214-261-4500. • Neiman Marcus The original Neimans! It helped put Dallas on the map. 214-741-6911. • Highland Park Village Home to the Chanel boutique ((214-520-1055), it’s the Beverly Hills of Dallas. PLAY Klyde Warren Park Dallas’ Central Park. • Katy Trail Stretching 3.5 miles through town and perfect for jogging or biking. • Round-Up Saloon So much fun for a night of dancing. 214-522-9611. STAY Mansion on Turtle Creek This is where Mr. Lagerfeld stayed—enough said. 214-559-2100 214-559-2100. • The Joule A sleek boutique 214-748-1300. • hotel. 214-748-1300

Jessica Joffe

Lily Collins

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COURTESY OF CHANEL

Zoë Kravitz

FASHION VALLEY BLOOMI NGDALE’S N EIM AN M ARCUS GUCCI LOU IS V U IT TON PR ADA SALVATORE FERR AGA MO OVER 20 0 SHOPS S H O P FA S H I O N VA L L E Y M A L L . C O M

travel

FROM LEFT Rooms

On the Map Andrew Zobler, of N.Y.-based Sydell Group (NYC’s NoMad, The Saguaro in Palm Springs, Ace), puts the finishing touches on The Line, a 388-room hotel at the corner of Wilshire and Normandie, revealing his extensive community outreach: Venice-based cofounder Sean Knibb redesigned the Brutalist space; the Houston Brothers (La Descarga, Harvard & Stone, No Vacancy) created the lounge bar; the couple behind Poketo will open their second retail post. Says Zobler, “We want our guests to know they have arrived in a place that is uniquely Los Angeles.” From $240/night; 3515 Wilshire Blvd, L.A., 213-381-7411; thelinehotel.com.

COOL WATERS FROM LEFT Prada bag, $2,200, prada.com. Miu Miu sunglasses, $390, miumiu.com.

NEW YORK CITY

Live It Up Some things go in and out of fashion, but the Upper East Side has long been the swank heart of New York City, albeit a slightly staid one. Injecting some modern glamour is The Surrey, a boutique hotel perched among art galleries, restaurants, bars and a heart-stopping array of designer stores. Originally built in 1926 as residential apartments, it later housed John F. Kennedy and Bette Davis, and a tasteful overhaul guided by interior designer Lauren Rottet has taken nothing away from its high-society heritage. Sumptuous suites overlooking the Manhattan skyline welcome travelers; while downstairs, Daniel Boulud’s Michelinstarred Café Boulud and Chanel-inspired Bar Pleiades draw local crowds. From $450/night; 20 E. 76th St., N.Y., 212-288-3700; thesurrey.com.

WRITTEN BY NAOMI CHRISOULAKIS, KELSEY McKINNON AND JENNY MURRAY. THE LINE: ADRIAN GAUT. THE SURREY: TOM McWILLIAM. BACARA: JIM BARTSCH

KOREATOWN

boast original artwork by local artist Kevin Hanley, Negril chairs by Knibb, Baxter of California products and views of the Hollywood Hills. Chef Roy Choi is set to open two restaurants on the property: Pot and Commissary. The Wilshire Boulevard exterior.

Stuart Weitzman sandals, $398, stuartweitzman.com.

SANTA BARBARA

NATURAL RESOURCES

The Spa at Bacara Resort.

Taking its cue from nature’s bounty, Bacara Resort’s 42,000-squarefoot spa has enhanced its treatment menu. Local citrus, avocado, honey, lavender and grape seeds beckon, as does the brand-new rooftop Mud Bar, with a selection of marine muds. 8301 Hollister Ave., S.B., 855-968-0100; bacararesort.com.

The Penthouse Suite.

A Luxury Salon guest room.

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Kate Moss photographed by Chuck Close, 2007.

Snap Happy

Orange County-born photographer Todd Selby points his lens at the fashion industry in his latest coffee table tome, unearthing the creative processes of designers and their inspiring environs

Sisters Kimberly and Nancy Wu, the designers behind the Downtown L.A. accessories line Building Block.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TODD SELBY WRITTEN AND EDITED BY ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

MARCH 2014

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COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP Building

Block’s form-based white leather bag. A collection of Building Block bags, “designed to emphasize the usefulness of a product while disregarding anything that could possibly detract from it.” Model and actress Kiko Mizuhara in a Sretsis dress and Miu Miu shoes. Iris van Herpen’s Thorn shoe. Van Herpen’s inspiration board. Van Herpen in front of a dress made for Björk.

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THE SELBY. BAG (1): BUILDING BLOCK

hen Todd Selby decided to photograph his fabulous friends and other creators, in situ, for his new blog, The Selby, he didn’t expect things to take off quite so quickly. But within three weeks he was getting invitations from artistic types across the globe eager to have their homes and work spaces captured by Selby’s special sauce of documentary journalism. To be interviewed by The Selby goes like this: The former Details photographer shows up at your studio, chatters away, gets you comfortable, then takes pictures of your products, and all those objects that just say you: clothes, jewelry, tchotchkes. At the end of the session he hands you a Proustian questionnaire of sorts—hastily drawn on a sheet of paper in which he asks you, the subject, to draw a garden or answer a question such as, “What are the six best things about black?” You sketch in your answers, creating a time capsule of the day that is both a snapshot and a collaboration. From those first weekly blog posts came professional gigs galore: the now-defunct Selby blog in T Magazine, projects with Japanese magazines, columns with Le Monde and The Guardian, and book deals such as the cult favorite Edible Selby and his latest, Fashionable Selby ($25, Abrams). It’s a global jaunt through the studios of some of the most innovative people in the fashion space. Dries Van Noten opens the doors to a former warehouse filled with a sea of fabric bolts and impeccably arranged samples; Iris van Herpen unveils her experiments with seamless latex, laser-cut textiles and flexible dresses; model/actress Kiko Mizuhara shows off her unusual collection of vintage accessories and professes her love of Tex-Mex. “When I was growing up in O.C., there were a lot of strip malls,” Selby remembers. (The Brooklyn resident is currently house shopping in L.A.). “I always liked quirky things, like the Rutabegorz restaurant, and there wasn’t much of that in O.C., so I think it drove me in that direction.” Fashionable Selby falls into that eccentric vein, but it’s also an eyeopening look at process. “There are so many big personalities in fashion,” Selby says. “But I wanted to show another side of the velvet curtain”—whether that’s how Isabel Marant doesn’t have a fit model and builds a collection on herself, or that Fred Butler, the Brit designer behind Lady Gaga’s blue telephone helmet, uses layers of leftover acetate scraps, >>

EQUINOX MADE ME DO IT. e qu inox .co m

culture LEFT British designer Butler’s workbook. BELOW, FROM RIGHT Butler

answers Selby’s questionnaire. Dries Van Noten doing a fitting in his Antwerp studio. A selection of Van Noten’s threads.

<< vinyl and glitter to make her ’60s-style earrings. Nancy and Kimberly Wu, the Downtown L.A. designers behind the minimalist accessories line Building Block, had heard a few things about Selby before he approached them, such as he “wears cat T-shirts” and gets to “see inside the lives of unique people around the world,” Nancy says. What surprised them the most about the photographer who’s hung out with Karl Lagerfeld and Pharrell was just how casual it all was. Selby arrived without preamble, no scouting, no entourage, just himself and his camera. “We loved how down-to-earth and excited he was,” says Kimberly. Fred Butler in one of her prototypes. Within two hours Selby had taken images of the light-filled loft of the former industrial designers (who previously worked with Honda and Nike), their carefully chosen greenery and their funky, shape-driven handbags and shoes. “What feels right are designs that are self-evident in their construction and beautiful simply because of the honesty of their material and forms,” says Nancy. The group hit it off so well that they collaborated to launch a special series of tassels to decorate cameras for The Selbz, Selby’s capsule collection of camera accessories, which are sold at Colette in Paris and MAC in San Francisco. “Building Block’s work is incredible and unique,” marvels Selby—an emblem of what the book became for him. “This book is very personal. I learned about the work and process that goes into all these things.” •

THE SELBY

Todd Selby

EQUINOX MADE ME DO IT. E QU INOX .CO M

culture

Julia Pevzner makes her directorial debut at the theater with Billy Budd.

The 100th anniversary celebration of modernist composer Benjamin Britten’s birth continues this season with the L.A. Opera’s rendition of the seaworthy classic Billy Budd. Uncharacteristically, Britten called for a large, lavish orchestra for this opera, and the production, originally launched in Covent Garden, retells the tragic Herman Melville story of a sailor accused of mutiny. Sung by an all-male cast, the opera also marks the debut of Wagnerian bass Greer Grimsley as the jealous Claggart. Through March 16; laopera.org.

BERKELEY

KEEP ON TROCKING Decades after Cal Performances ﬁrst introduced Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo to the West Coast, the NorCal institution hosts the campy, simply wonderful company of ballet in drag. March 25, 8 p.m.; calperformances.org. Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo is affectionately called “the Trocks.”

GALLERY GAL “I think Claudia Altman-Siegel is one of the best young dealers here in S.F.,” says Sabrina Buell, art adviser with Zlot Buell and Associates. The East Coast dealer moved west after an international art career with Luhring Augustine gallery in NYC, where she first started out as a security guard. “I wasn’t very good,” says AltmanSiegel. “I read a lot of books: War and Peace…” Promoted shortly after to director, she spent the next 10 years canvassing the art world. Since her arrival in S.F. in 2008, Altman-Siegel has opened her eponymous gallery to strong success. Her focus on emerging museum-caliber artists who “need someone to take them to the next level” has proven valuable to Berkeley-educated Trevor Paglen and mixed-media artist Liam Everett—both now in high demand. This month she highlights Tokyo artist Shinpei Kusanagi’s dreamy abstractions. How does she pick her next big thing? “For me, it’s almost a buzz that I get,” she says. March 6-April 19; altmansiegel.com. LEFT Night

Crusing, 2009, by Shinpei Kusanagi. BELOW Claudia Altman-Siegel.

LOS ANGELES

Everyone’s a Critic

“Take It or Leave It: Institution, Image, Ideology” culminates seven years of plotting and planning for Hammer Senior Curator Anne Ellegood and The New Museum’s Johanna Burton. Bringing together 35 game-changing artists who beg, borrow and steal from mass media to ask big questions about the role of a museum, this exhibition is already being celebrated in the art world. Through May 18; hammer.ucla.edu.

FROM TOP Allan McCollum’s Collection of One Hundred and Twenty Drawings, 1989/93. Nayland Blake’s Feeder 2.

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LEVISON. ALLAN McCOLLUM: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND PETZEL GALLERY, NEW YORK

Ship Shape

BILLY BUDD: KEN HOWARD/L.A. OPERA. TROCKADERO: SASCHA VAUGHN. ALTMAN-SIEGEL: MARK

LOS ANGELES

EQUINOX MADE ME DO IT. Los Angeles

Orange County

San Francisco

new york

los angeles

MONIQUELHUILLIER.COM

MAKEUP: KENDRA RICHARDS AT CLOUTIER REMIX. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

COVET

WORLDS AWAY

Fit for a tribal goddess, spring accessories venture into exotic new territory PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMANDA DEMME

Roberto Cavalli necklace, price upon request. FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN MARCH 2014

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Valentino bag, $1,845. Alexander McQueen clutch, $2,595. Roger Vivier clutch, $2,250, South Coast Plaza.

FROM TOP

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newstyle

Find The laTesT spring sTyles in our newesT sTores. kiTson MarTier CarMen sTeFFens BlooMingdale’s porsChe design BCBgMaXaZria pirCh MiChael kors VileBrequin

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Christian Louboutin pumps, $1,095. Manolo Blahnik mules, $865. Jimmy Choo pumps, $595.

FROM TOP

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BEVERLY HILLS, 9546 Brighton Way, CA 90210 MIAMI, 135 San Lorenzo Avenue, Suite 790 - Coral Gables, FL 33146 SAKS FIFTH AVENUE: Beverly Hills - New York - Houston - Palm Beach

Max Mara top, $535, and dress, $850. Cartier bracelet. FASHION EDITOR: SAMANTHA TRAINA

POINT OF VIEW A shining vision at Walt Disney Concert Hall, Amber Valletta proves that beauty comes from within. After 20-odd years in front of the camera, the devoted mother breathes new life into the eco-fashion movement. Jenni Kayne finds out how she does it all Photographed by Christopher Ferguson

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Altuzarra dress, $7,100, net-a-porter. com. Repossi earrings, Opening Ceremony. Jennifer Fisher x Stop It Right Now ring, $100. Van Cleef & Arpels yellow gold ring, $800, and rose gold ring, $1,350. OPPOSITE Dolce & Gabbana dress. Manolo Blahnik sandals, $725, neimanmarcus.com.

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here comes a day when you start to think twice about what you are wearing: What, exactly, are nylon and polyester? Who made this? For Amber Valletta, those questions incentivized her mission to promote responsibly made, fashion-forward lines. Last fall, she dovetailed her modeling career with the launch of Master & Muse, a multi-brand online marketplace. Here, Valletta sits down with L.A. designer Jenni Kayne to discuss the new way forward. JK: Tell me about the premise of Master & Muse. AV: We look at how people source and produce their clothing and accessories. Do they have integrity? Are they collaborative? Innovative? Are they spreading awareness? This is the lens we use to vet a brand. And it’s not just about the environment. It’s about the human issue too: losing jobs to Third World countries and those countries not having great labor laws or enough safety requirements. People are getting sick and dying. Fashion should be fun. It’s creative. It’s a way to express ourselves and through creativity we can bring about amazing change. JK: When did you become so passionate about this? AV: My mom was an environmental activist in Oklahoma. She protested to stop a nuclear power plant from being built when I was a child. My grandparents also had a farm, so I was always out in the country. I saw the importance and the value of respecting the land and what it means to fight for it. As I got older, I tried to figure out what I could do of service that has meaning to me, combined with what I’m good at. Work can’t be just about money. It has to be about making your life better and other lives better. Don’t you think? JK: Yes, especially at this point in our lives. As moms we want to live in a healthy responsible way and think about the future. AV: That’s how this whole thing started. I knew my roots and what I care about. When you become a mother, you think about what you are leaving behind for your children, other children and future generations. JK: So your company is a mix of designers who manufacture responsibly and use eco-friendly fabrics? AV: More often than not, brands we choose do a multitude of things. We work with designers who use leather like Clare Vivier. But we only buy pieces that are naturally tanned, and she is lining them with organic fabrics for us. We know she produces locally and pays her workers fairly, and obviously the style component is there. We work with M. Patmos too, and not everything she makes is 100% ecofriendly. It is partly because we respect that she has made an effort to get other brands and other people in fashion to design more responsibly—like her fish-scale collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. We recognize people and designers who are making an effort as much as those who are using nontoxic materials. JK: They are doing the best they can. That’s how I live my life. It may seem silly, but I cut out plastic in our house. No plastic water bottles—we reuse glass bottles. It’s something so little, but to me it’s something you can do every day. Imagine the amount of waste we were creating in our house. It’s where I can make a small difference. Do you feel like you are alone in your efforts, or do you think everybody is looking in a similar direction? AV: By launching the online store, I do feel like I have stepped out in front a little bit. But I certainly am not going to take credit for the movement because there are people who have been at this for so long. The owner of Patagonia has been talking about this for years. I’m willing to say this matters and to use the power of my image and my voice to instigate the conversation and really be out there. It’s certainly not new news, but I can definitely say that I have been taking a risk. JK: Yes. We’ve tried to move most of our manufacturing to local factories. I still make my shoes in Italy, which is a super-old-school operation—a mom-and-pop. It is not at all what you picture happening in other parts of the world. CONTINUED ON PAGE 200

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Gucci top, $2,400, bra, $595, and pants, $1,300. Jennifer Fisher x Stop It Right Now cuff, $250.

LOCATION: WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL; LAPHIL.COM. HAIR: MARANDA C AT THE WALL GROUP. MAKEUP: SHANE PAISH FOR DIOR BEAUTY AT WALTER SCHUPFER. MANICURIST: KAIT MOSH FOR DIOR VERNIS AT CLOUTIER REMIX. TAILOR: TATIANA SALI. ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN. FASHION ASSISTANT: ALI MILLER. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

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Lanvin top, $1,380, skirt, $1,095, and belt, $540. OPPOSITE Roberto Cavalli dress. Jennifer Fisher necklace, $225. MAKEUP Dior blush in Rose ChĂŠrie, 5 Couleurs Trianon Edition eyeshadow palette, Brow Styler and Iconic Mascara in Black. Givenchy Rouge Interdit lipstick in 2 Beige Champagne.

FIRST POSITION

At the War Memorial Opera House, San Francisco Ballet principal Maria Kochetkova turns out in spring finery By Elizabeth Khuri Chandler Photographed by Abbey Drucker

Dolce & Gabbana dress. Sethi Couture rings, from $1,750, Roseark. FASHION EDITOR: SAMANTHA TRAINA

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Vera Wang dress and slip. De Beers necklace. Capezio leotard, $40. OPPOSITE Balenciaga dress, $8,450. Graff Diamonds bracelet.

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Louis Vuitton dress. OPPOSITE Prada bra top, $3,300. Dior skirt, $2,400. Jack Vartanian bracelet, Roseark.

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hen the curtain goes up for the second half of the San Francisco Ballet Opening Night Gala, Russian ballerina Maria Kochetkova is sprawled across an unmade bed. She’s dressed in a slip, and her hair is askew. Across from her at a desk sits Danish guest artist Johan Kobborg. The two dancers launch into one of the late British choreographer Sir Kenneth MacMillan’s most romantic pas de deux from the ballet Manon— the Bedroom Pas de Deux—in which Kochetkova’s character declares her love for Kobborg’s and has what is joked about among dancers, one of the longest makeout sessions in any stage production. Beyond that passionate kiss, though, what’s notable about the tiny Kochetkova is the way she moves: limpid, flowing from one step into the next, luxuriating in every développé, grande battement and gesture. She’s a consummate dancer who combines technical mastery with superb acting. As we chat over coffee at Arlequin Cafe in Hayes Valley, it is obvious that there is much more to the Kochetkova myth than just her ability to execute a perfectly balanced pirouette or an arabesque arching toward the rafters. She sits in the corner, pecking at her cell phone, dressed in an acid-green boxy coat and wearing playful patterned black-and-white leggings. “Masha,” as she is known among friends, embodies the spirit of San Francisco: an artist/ technophile, who also has a reputation for gamechanging fashion. As an artist, the 29-year-old finds herself in heavy rotation each dance season. This year she’s slated to perform in her idol Natalia Makarova’s La Bayadère, Wayne McGregor’s Borderlands, the up-and-coming Russian choreographer Alexei Ratmansky’s Shostakovich Triology, Giselle and Christopher Wheeldon’s brand-new production of Cinderella. “He’s the reason I came to San Francisco, you know,” she says in her quiet, slightly breathless voice. In 2007, Wheeldon knew the company director, Helgi Tomasson, was looking for a diminutive ballerina, and at the same time, the Bolshoi-trained, Prix de Lausannewinning Kochetkova was very interested in the S.F. Ballet’s blend of modern and traditional repertoire. She had been dancing in England first for the Royal and then with the English National Ballet for the past five years. Upon Wheeldon’s recommendation and an audition in San Francisco, Kochetkova was rewarded with a principal CONTINUED ON PAGE 200

Rochas dress, $4,365. De Beers necklace worn in hair.

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Michael Kors bandeau, $1,995, and skirt, $9,995. De Beers necklace. OPPOSITE Valentino romper. Graff Diamonds bracelet.

HAIR AND MAKEUP: ERIN LEE SMITH USING CHANEL FOR AUBRI BALK INC. ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN. TAILOR: KIRSTEN TUCKER. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: JACKLYN MARK. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 201

Jason Wu dress, $2,750. De Beers necklace. OPPOSITE Monique Lhuillier top, $1,995. Skirt, Kochetkova’s own. Queen Vee bracelet, $1,100, Roseark. MAKEUP Chanel Vitalumière Aqua foundation in Beige, Les 4 Ombres Quadra Eye Shadow palette in Dunes, Le Crayon Khôl eyeliner in Graphite, Rouge Coco lip color in Charme, Lèvres Scintillantes Glossimer lip gloss in Seashell and Les Beiges Sheer Colour powder. Dr. Hauschka mascara.

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IT’S A WRAP The dress that started it all under a ’70s mirror ball is now 40 years young. As a new generation slips into it seamlessly, designer and global society girl turned business tycoon Diane von Furstenberg proves she’s about as American Hustle as it gets. Improbably, she chose Los Angeles to fête her iconic frock and secure her own very personal legacy By Brian D. Leitch Photographed by Columbine Goldsmith

Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane von Furstenberg

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plopped down on the floor late in the evening, amid the hysteria, on the eve of the show, “for the first time since I decided to honor it, sitting here, now, I can honestly say, ‘I’m impressed!’” She repeats the phrase three times, the laugh lines dancing across her face, which have never been “done,” as she’s often said, because “I don’t want to erase myself.” Unlike Newsweek—long forgotten and looking in retrospect as though it might have actually benefited from a face-lift—von Furstenberg is still here. And thriving. Scanning the legions of chic young women running around in derivations of her dress, then glancing across the room at photos of Cybill Shepherd in Taxi Driver, Jerry Hall (then 19) on the runway and Amy Adams in American Hustle, she sums it up: “I never wanted to do a fashion statement—never! And yet 40 years later, I’m in the sociology books. There was no logo, no marketing plan; it has a life of its own. I’m a testimony of a changing woman, a liberation of women…so it lasted.”

The ’70s. Studio 54. Marriage to German prince and Fiat heir Egon von Furstenberg. Posing for Andy Warhol (perhaps inventor of the first selfie) Polaroids in the kitchen of her über-Belle Epoque apartment, “because it was the only place with plain white walls—I couldn’t imagine how it could turn into anything glamorous!” (The Warhol portraits, along with a

“I’m a love brand...I’m not a businessperson. But I can leave a legacy.”

host of other stellar artworks, are on view in the show.) If those walls could talk! Her parties were an international who’s who of chic and scandalous. Shockingly beautiful, the young von Furstenberg could have been content to perpetually reprise the role of cosmopolitan playgirl, but with two young children and a marriage unraveling, she set about securing her independence instead. So she went to work, and as with anything worth doing, there were obstacles. “Fear is not an option,” her mother, Lily, an Auschwitz survivor, had often told her. The designer endured the proverbial “Project Runway”-style “you’re either in or you’re OUT” rejection period—hers Dylan Penn was in the late ’80s. Amusingly, she and Robin found herself a guest judge on the Wright show when she returned to the height of her totemic powers in 2012. She is never too far removed from her CONTINUED ON PAGE 200 boogie nights:

LEFT (3): COURTESY OF DIANE VON FURSTENBERG. INTERVIEW: PHOTOGRAPH BY PETER STRONGWATER, COVER BY RICHARD BERNSTEIN, 1982. AMERICAN HUSTLE: FRANCOIS DUHAMEL. STUDIO 54: ROBIN PLATZER/THE LIFE IMAGES COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

nnie Leibovitz tipped me off,” says Diane von Furstenberg, the storied designer, trailblazing businesswoman, ’70’s babe and all-around force of female nature. “She had just photographed the First Lady in my chain-link black-andwhite print wrap dress, which matched Bo, the family dog, perfectly…So I picked up the phone and said, ‘Hey, can I get a Christmas card?’” That card, the Obamas’ first postinaugural “Season’s Greetings,” was a fabulous (and fortuitous) holiday gift indeed, as images of every style-maker—from Amy Winehouse in East London to Madonna in Tel Aviv—were appearing in the retro-graphic dresses like a global Pop Art newsfeed. Meanwhile, von Furstenburg herself was décolletage-deep in the planning of her “Journey of a Dress” exhibition, a “NOWtrospective” (somehow “retrospective” seems woefully inadequate to describe the ride the designer—and miraculously, the same dress—have been on since the 67-year-old firebrand started her career in fashion, a newlywed princess, at age 22). The show is currently on view in a spectacularly curated, larger-than-life space at the former Wilshire May Company building adjacent to LACMA. It’s empirically DVF: Empowering women is the cynosure of all she does. In 1976, she was on the cover of Newsweek, touted as the most marketable woman in fashion since Coco Chanel. And now here she stands, commander in chief, in front of an army of mannequins all custom-made with her famous cheekbones, arranged not by era but aesthetically, in a dizzying display of signature prints. Even the most encyclopedic fashion expert could not say for sure which was 40 years old and which was a dress du jour. “Sometimes I resented it. I do so much more than the wrap dress. At first I took it for granted. It paid my bills, it paid for my celebrity, my fame, the Bentley I drive, my apartment in New York.” (And with donations at $35 million and counting from The Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation for the fabulous High Line park, it also paid for a good deal of the view from that apartment too.) “But you know,” she says,

Life of the party. Her “army” of timeless prints. L.A.’s historic May Co. building, site of the exhibition. A leggy, louche ’70s moment with husband Barry Diller at Studio 54. Her second Interview cover. 1981. Amy Adams wraps it up in American Hustle.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LIGHT & SPACE Laura Love embodies the minimalist California movement in a play between volume, scale and the sunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soft rays Photographed by David Cameron C 182

Ralph Lauren top, $1,295. Carolina Herrera trousers. Jil Sander sandals, $695, Barneys New York. OPPOSITE Sportmax dress, $1,190. Kendall Conrad bangle, $210. FASHION EDITOR: JESSICA DE RUITER

Salvatore Ferragamo sweater, $1,230, and bandeau, $870. OPPOSITE Jil Sander top, $740, and skirt, $1,060. Kendall Conrad rings, $170 each.

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Chanel top, $2,950, and skirt, $1,900.

3.1 Phillip Lim sweater, $585, and skirt, $1,095. Kendall Conrad rings, $120 each. OPPOSITE Oscar de la Renta top, $2,690.

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T by Alexander Wang romper, $450. Eddie Borgo cuff, $300. Jil Sander sandals. OPPOSITE Tod’s top, $4,425, and skirt, $2,575. Eddie Borgo bracelet, $355. MAKEUP Dior foundation in Ivory, 5 Couleurs Iridescent Eye Shadow Palette in Earth Reflection, and Rouge Dior lip color in Trompe L’oeil. Covergirl TRUblend Mineral Blush in Shimmering Sands. L’Oreal Voluminous Power Volume 24H Mascara.

HAIR: ENZO ANGILERI AT CLOUTIER REMIX. MAKEUP: FRANCESCA TOLOT USING DIORSHOW AT CLOUTIER REMIX. MANICURIST: JOLENE BRODEUR USING ZOYA AT ABTP. TAILOR: HASMIK KOURINIAN. FASHION ASSISTANT: SHADI BECCAI. FASHION INTERN: KATHERINE SHUKHMAN

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SUPERLALOVE

FOR NINA GARDUNO, FREECITY IS MORE THAN JUST CLOTHING—IT’S ABOUT THE WHOLE NEO-HIPPIE EXPERIENCE By Cat Doran Photographed by Lisa Eisner

A FREECITY employee wears a T-shirt from the FIELDTRIP GOLDENLIGHT GOLDENBOOM collection. OPPOSITE Hero relaxing under a LIFENATURELOVE sail on the deck at Garduno’s home.

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Nina Garduno and Hero at home. Garduno, in FREECITY jeans and a Basic Goodness sweatshirt, holds a down quilt from the FIELDTRIP GOLDENLIGHT GOLDENBOOM collection.

he sparkly eyes. The perfectly messy hair. The sweet voice. The layered T-shirts worn with the artfully patched jeans. Surf sandals with tabi socks. They’re all part and parcel of Nina Garduno’s distinctly Los Angeles, and more specifically, latter-day Laurel Canyon, vibe. Garduno got her start as a sales associate at L.A. institution Fred Segal/Ron Herman; She was VP of men’s before she opened her first FREECITY store in Malibu in 2005. During a trip to Christiania in Denmark, she was struck with the utopian ideal of living in a “Free City” and upon her return began printing T-shirts and sweatpants with the words that were emblematic of her new way of thinking. She expanded the idea of liberating casual wear into a must-have brand for the young Hollywood set. She says, “We were lucky because we started selling FREECITY at Fred Segal, which was where everyone shopped. After a few paparazzi shots of stars and their kids grocery shopping or getting coffee while wearing FREECITY, we had established ourselves as

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what people in Los Angeles dress like in their daily lives.” In 2010, the strip of Highland Avenue just north of Santa Monica Boulevard was essentially a retail wasteland. Garduno relocated FREECITY Supershop to its new, bigger home, and shortly thereafter, other high-end retailers (James Perse) and art galleries (Regen Projects) followed suit. Upon entering the FREECITY Supershop, it’s hard to focus on just one thing. Each year, Garduno turns the entire store over in what might best be described as an art installation. There is always a theme with a quirky name—SUPERSHOP SUPERMAT BIKEFRIEND, FREECITY NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, INMUSICINLOVE VIBRATIONSANDCOLOR— and while you might not truly grasp the meaning of the words on the washed T-shirt you have to have, you certainly embrace the feeling behind it. And it reflects the atmosphere in the store during each iteration: FREECITY NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM was like a mini version of the New York City institution, complete with dioramas; SUPERSHOP SUPERMAT BIKEFRIEND featured explosively colorful bikes and took >>

ABOVE Hero wanders through the living room. All furniture and pillows are by FREECITY. LEFT Gardunoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal collection of records, ceramics and posters.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;After a few paparazzi shots of stars and their kids grocery shopping or getting coffee while wearing FREECITY, we had established ourselves as what people in Los Angeles dress like in their daily lives.â&#x20AC;?

<< inspiration from a neighborhood laundromat. There are other stores that provide cohesive retail experiences— Colette in Paris and 10 Corso Como in Milan come to mind—but none that place the experience ahead of the merchandise so wholly that any purchase is just a small part of your takeaway. Garduno explains her philosophy this way: “I don’t want to minimize the importance of the clothes, because the bar has been raised over and over with what you can do with T-shirts and sweatpants, but they’re very simple items. I start with the environment first—I want to give everyone who is walking through the door enough of a feeling that they want to leave with a souvenir of their time in the store. I really see the clothes as an accent for the environment.” This season, the theme of the installation, FIELDTRIP GOLDENLIGHT GOLDENBOOM, was inspired by a trip Garduno took to India last year. The most striking feature is a forest composed of 31 handmade white plaster-and-mortar trees that range from 10 to 15 feet tall and are arranged in groups throughout the space. Depending on the time of day you visit, the colors of the skylights above stream across, turning the store into a rainbow-hued magical forest. Despite the fact that she is always reimagining the store, when it comes to decorating her Hollywood Hills hideaway of 16 years, she is much more laid-back. “It’s really hard for me to put things in my house. I’d rather have an empty house. I don’t have anything in my closet. If I love something and can’t live without it, then it ends up in my house. And it never leaves. All of that other part of me is here,” and she gestures around the Workshop, where the staff is in the middle of taking inventory—counting stacks and stacks of the printed clothing that has built the brand into a cult favorite. In addition to the sweatpants, sweatshirts, T-shirts and puffer jackets that have been the staples of the FREECITY look since its inception, Garduno is branching out into more tailored clothing with outerwear and jeans in basic work wear silhouettes. The store also features a unique assortment of products from artists, creators and designers—a custom fragrance from L’Oeil du Vert, jewelry from Scosha and Stuart England, ceramic beer tumblers and mugjugs from Matthias Merkel Hess, and honey from San Diego Bees—that enhance the experience and separate the store even further from what you would expect a retail environment to look, smell and taste like. Garduno just might be the most interesting free spirit in retail, and FREECITY just might be the closest thing Los Angeles has to a crafts museum. Should you find yourself in Hollywood (and you should), open your mind with a visit to the Supershop. •

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John and Eli Janik

Sebastian Strote

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Tracee Ellis Ross

Jacqui Getty

Harpal Sodhi

Lola Glaudini and sons Valentino and Montaigne Wilson

Olivia MaronMort

Rene Holguin

TREES AND SHOES (2): PAUL CARTER

Roman Alonso

White plaster-andmortar trees for the FIELDTRIP GOLDENLIGHT GOLDENBOOM installation. Glittering hand of Fatima at the Workshop. Shoes in progress. A tree adorned with marigolds and other India-inspired decorations. FREECITY employees at the Workshop. Sisters Isabella Glaudini and Olivia Giannulli. Shoes covered in clay from the FIELDTRIP GOLDENLIGHT GOLDENBOOM installation.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

WORTH HIS SALT

FIRST POSITION

IT’S A WRAP

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 132

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 172

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 180

Noted filmmaker Werner Herzog stepped in to

contract, and she decamped from London with her

A replica of Studio 54 was a fun throwback for guests

narrate a short film to accompany the Kickstarter

soon-to-be-husband, Edward King, not far behind. She

of the L.A. opening, including Demi Moore, André

project. Garro recalls, “I said, ‘Would you like to look

was 23.

Leon Talley, Gwyneth Paltrow, Rooney Mara (looking

at this video we made?’ He said, ‘Just give it to me. It

Nine months later the couple got hitched in Las

eerily like the late Tina Chow, the ne plus ultra of ’70s

needs some work.’” There were Pollan’s words, and

Vegas. “We met at an illegal nightclub in London,” she

chic) and the ghosts of so many glitterati one presumes

then there’s the immeasurable power of an Alice

says. “It was shut down later.” At the time she was

were also there in spirit. Artist Dustin Yellin’s ethereal

Waters testimonial: “This salt is so indispensable, I

partying with members of the Bolshoi Ballet Academy,

sculpture, an apparition of the dress called A Ghost

bring a bag everywhere I go!”

and King was friends with one of the dressers at Covent

May Come, was perched at the entrance to greet all the

Garden.

“late greats” we’ve long since lost. The former princess

The campaign ended September 7, and 3,057 backers had pledged $141,467—far surpassing the

King perhaps gets some credit for another

muses, “I’m so happy I was old enough in the ’70s to

element of the Kochetkova persona: her social media

have enjoyed it and young enough to experience the

With Omnivore Salt now in production, sales

prowess. Her husband is a classic art-techie: two

Digital Revolution today. You know what the Digital

have begun online and in shops such as Belcampo

years at Imperial College (the MIT of the U.K.)

Revolution is? Transparency. And you know who’s

Meat Co. and Shed in Healdsburg. The Pacific

followed by a degree at Chelsea College of Arts,

afraid? The fakes. Because you can’t fake it anymore!”

Northwest is next. Back at the forge, Garro is still

before entering the tech scene. He’s worked at

There is indeed nothing fake about DVF’s single,

savoring his daily cappuccino, still cooking. Truly salt

various successful socially-focused companies such

simple, steady-as-she-goes mentality: “I became an

of the earth. omnivoresalt.com. •

as MySpace, and just launched his own venture,

empowered woman through fashion, and through

isayu.com, which is a platform for building custom

fashion I managed to empower other women, so I do it

online communities. “He always wants me to help

through my work, I do it through philanthropy [The

him figure out how things work,” Kochetkova says,

Diane von Furstenberg Awards, with grants for

and smiles. “He was the 24th user of Instagram.”

women who display leadership, strength and courage

funding goal of $30,000.

POINT OF VIEW CONTINUED FROM PAGE 162

Letting people know where they can responsibly

So the ballerina set up her own Twitter and

in commitment to their causes]. I do it through

produce won’t affect your business in a negative way.

Instagram accounts, becoming the first ballet dancer

mentoring, through speaking [she’s on the board of

Who wouldn’t want to do that if they had the resources?

to actively use Twitter and growing her Instagram

Vital Voices], so every facet of what I do is the same: to

audience to 29,000 followers.

celebrate freedom and empower women. Basically

AV: And when you are sourcing and producing the right way, you are eliminating a lot of problems. When you do not pay people fairly, you keep them poor. JK: Do you do all the buying for the site? AV: Yes. We partnered with Yoox. They run the shop-

She enjoys demystifying the half-lit world of

what I do is sell confidence.” Sans shoulder pads. And

rehearsals, performances and projects through her

so it is that a dress that carried the DNA of a newly

photos. “Ballet is a bit of a private world. I use it more

single woman’s independence in its seams in the ’70s

like a diary.”

has come a long way, baby.

Scroll her feed and you’ll find plentiful fodder for

ping platform. We work with their buyers, but we pick

her reputation as a globe-trotting fashion trailblazer.

everything. Spring is amazing. We have double the

One moment she’s in Taipei, another in London, then

“I’ve aged 30 years since last week!” she says on

inventory and double the number of designers.

backstage at the opera house doing the splits. Either

the phone, the morning after the opening party, from

JK: Who are you particularly excited about?

she’s in tights and a leotard, or wild polka dot pants

the midcentury Beverly Hills home—well hidden

AV: Svilu-—I actually found them when I was

with yellow accents and huge Harriet the Spy glasses.

behind lush gardens—that she’s shared for 14 years

judging the Eco Challenge for Lexus and the

“I like mixing things that don’t necessarily match,”

with longtime manpanion and media mogul Barry

she says. “It gives me a certain satisfaction.” When

Diller, whom she finally married in 2001. (Agent and

she first arrived in S.F., she sported mostly vintage

provocateur Sue Mengers is rumored to have set them

clothes from the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s, but that stopped

up in ’74.) After some perfunctory party gossip—some

after she realized that the fabric was simply too fragile.

said more A-listers came to the fashion fête than

At a Halloween party last year she went as Lolita,

attended the Golden Globes gala a few days follow-

complete with sailor stripes.

ing—I ask the obvious: “Why L.A.?” I’ve heard the

CFDA. They are two really cool young girls from New York. Jenni, you would love them—they are very clean, simple and modern with great silhouettes. Also, Vitamin A, a swimwear line based

Laguna

Beach

that

incorporates

sustainable fibers like Tencel.

“At the end of the day,” she says, “it’s just my

stock answers—“the light,” “pop culture”—but DVF

JK: As a California girl and a California brand, my

life.” And it’s essential to her that she continue to

delights a little more in the idea of a city full of stage

overall sensibility is rooted here. Living in Los

explore and evolve. “Ballet isn’t just about Swan

sets, a dream factory “that’s glamorous and shiny in

Angeles, we’re exposed to eating well, growing our

Lake. And artists are not just dancers.” She’s work-

the front and a little bit dark and desperate in the

own food, and so many different environmental

ing on a new ballet-influenced fashion line with a

back.” She thinks of Short Cuts and The Day of The

issues. How much do you think it influences you?

London designer; performing in a music video with

Locust.

the S.F. band The Cathedrals; heading to New York

“My children and grandchildren are here, and

City to guest with the American Ballet Theatre; and

I married Barry, who is aristocracy in L.A.” She

recently filmed a three-minute dance video using

continues, sounding more like the CFDA royalty she

the same technology that was used to create the

is, having received the Council of Fashion Designer’s

blockbuster Gravity. “It’s important to be interested

of America Lifetime Achievement award in 2005 and

in other things besides dance,” she says. “Charisma

serving as its president today. “I started in L.A. My first

JK: How about naturally tanned D’orsay flats?

can only get you so far. Once you are on stage, there

personal appearances were at Giorgio’s on Rodeo

AV: Exactly!

is nothing you can hide. And if you are not a deep

Drive. And it’s so visually inspiring. I photograph

masterandmuse.com. •

person, it shows.” •

everything! This city is much more important to

AV: I am based here too and definitely feel like this is a California brand with an elegant, laid-back feel. I hear a lot of conversations that California is paving the way in environmental issues. It certainly is an easy topic here. Jenni, I think we should collaborate.

C 200 MARCH 2014

fashion than people give it credit for. There is a lot of

choice to wear on the big night. (She opted for a more

about the high-stakes journey the belle of the ball and

newness here; it’s on the way to Asia…” Then her

cinematic black-and-gold kimono-sleeved gown at the

her little print jersey dress have yet to go on. Driving

inner Capricorn comes out. “And I slept with a few

last minute instead.) “I am not a businessperson; I am

home from the party on a quiet, breezy L.A. night I

movie stars along the way too, of course.” Richard

not a CEO. But I can leave a legacy. I am in the fall

round the corner at Melrose Place, past the large and

Gere and the always-energetic Warren Beatty purport-

of my life. This kind of spirit, my story, every woman’s

luscious image of bold red lips blowing her customers

edly made the Hot List.

story, has to continue.” With the superwoman strength

a great big DVF kiss from the glossy boutique’s

of her signature chain-link—Mrs. Obama-meets-

window…it’s her, then and now, still talking from

brilliantly so far, to define both DVF the woman and

Madonna

digital

both sides of her seductively feminine and unabash-

DVF the global juggernaut, now in 55 countries and

interactive dialogue is a sort of modern chain letter

edly feminist mouth: “This is the dress that closes the

101 signature boutiques worldwide. “I’m a love

between all the generations of women everywhere

deal.” In more ways than one.

brand,” she declares, and I recall the Love is Life dress

who believe that’s true.

“DVF40: The Journey of a Dress” is on view through April

Combining business and pleasure has worked

print—her

dvfwrapstory.com

she showed me the night before the party, the phrase

As Women’s Wear Daily reports on rumors swirl-

artfully scribbled in a print of her own elegantly un-

ing around the possibility of a blockbuster DVF IPO—

studied handwriting—at that moment it was her first

perhaps imminently—at the time of press, I wonder

ON OUR COVER

Lanvin beige silver lamé top, $1,380, skirt, $1,095, and silver belt, $540, Lanvin, B.H., 310-402-0580. Jennifer Fisher brass rose necklace, $225, jenniferfisherjewelry.com. Van Cleef & Arpels yellow gold Perlée ring, $800, and rose gold Perlée ring, $1,350, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Salvatore Ferragamo gold beaded silk tank top, $6,900, and beaded silk skirt, $16,900, Salvatore Ferragamo, B.H., 310-273-9990; ferragamo.com. Cartier yellow gold Juste un Clou bracelet, $6,850, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. Christian Louboutin gold patent leather pumps, price upon reqeust, Christian Louboutin, L.A., 310-247-9300.

SPLASH

C GIRL p.80 ON HAYA: Fendi blue mink dress, price upon request, Fendi, B.H., 310-276-8888. Cartier Juste un Clou ring, $4,050, and Juste un Clou bracelet, $12,600, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. ON SAMA: Fendi black leather dress, price upon request, Fendi, B.H., 310-276-8888. Cartier Juste un Clou ring, $4,050, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272.

FASHION

Au Naturel p.102 SIDEBAR: Etro khaki stingray bag, $3,570, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra tan leather mules, $805, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310-275-4211. Bally sandals in Marrakech, $350, Bally, B.H., 310-271-3310. Marc Jacobs sunglasses, price upon request, marcjacobs.com. Longchamp nude Roseau Box tote, $765, South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-436-1963. ON MODEL: Equipment blouse in rosewood, $208, Equipment, L.A., 323-330-8889. Michael Kors hemp linen flirt skirt, $595, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. Mulberry pink Clemmie clutch, $1,200, Mulberry, S.F., 415-399-9147. David Yurman gold crossover cuff, $625, and quartz watch with black mother of pearl, price upon request, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. p.104 SIDEBAR: Céline bag, $2,450, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Banana Republic sunglasses, price upon request, bananarepublic.com. Tom Ford ankle strap lock pumps, $1,250, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440. Brunello Cucinelli leather sandals, $1,385, Brunello Cucinelli, B.H., 310-724-8118. Delfina Delettrez colored triple pearl ring, $1,885, Opening Ceremony, L.A., 310-652-1120. ON MODEL: Salvatore Ferragamo tan wool cropped blazer, price upon request, select Salvatore Ferragamo stores; ferragamo.com. Hermès top, price upon request, Hermès, B.H., 310-278-6440. Joie green shorts, $158, Joie, L.A., 323-330-1255. Reed Krakoff clay milled Atlas bag, $2,190, reedkrakoff.com. David Yurman gold Labyrinth ring, $2,700, gold Albion ring with citrine, $4,800, and gold Lantana small dome ring, $5,100, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. p.106 SIDEBAR: Vacheron Constantin alligator strap watch, $18,800, Vacheron Constantin, B.H., 310-598-2026; vacheronconstantin.com. Salvatore Ferragamo brown leather heels, $1,150, Salvatore Ferragamo stores; ferragamo.com. Donna Karan leather Tabac sandals, $695, donnakaran.com. Guess cat eye Riley sunglasses, $82, guess.com. Louis Vuitton tan Neo Noe GM bag, $3,700, select Louis Vuitton stores; louisvuitton. com. ON MODEL: Michael Kors peanut bonded top, $3,995, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. Ralph Lauren Blue Label China cream Kolby trousers, $445, select Ralph Lauren stores; ralphlauren.com. Valentino Garavani cognac Rockstud bag, $1,995, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Joie gravel Lorenzo

sandals, $255, Joie, L.A., 323-330-1255; joie.com. David Yurman rose gold quartz watch, $5,000, yellow gold crossover wide ring, $850, and champagne citrine cable wrap ring, $4,600, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Jewelry Box p.108 Mish New York double crown-cut white topaz Ipanema earrings, $5,800, Mish New York, NY., 212-734-3500; mishnewyork.com. Chanel High Jewelry watch, price upon request, 800-550-0005. Boucheron rock crystal and white gold Cascade de diamants necklace, price upon request, boucheron. com. Pomellato rose gold and white topaz cocktail ring, $21,500, Pomellato, B.H., 310-858-1300; pomellato.com. David Webb platinum, diamond and carved rock crystal cuff, $85,000, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. Vhernier mother of pearl, rock crystal and rose gold Fuseau earrings, price upon request, B.H., 310-273-2444. Baccarat clear crystal and sterling silver ring, $590, South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-435-9600.

COVET

p.153 Roberto Cavalli dragon necklace, price upon request, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. p.154 Valentino Garavani flap bag, $1,845, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Alexander McQueen clutch, $2,595, Alexander McQueen, L.A., 323-782-4983. Roger Vivier suede clutch, $2,250, South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-435-0015. p.156 Christian Louboutin striped pumps, $1,095, Christian Louboutin, L.A., 310-247-9300. Manolo Blahnik embellished Lamballe mules, $865, 212-582-3007. Jimmy Choo woven Anouk pumps, $595, Jimmy Choo, L.A., 310-855-9538.

POINT OF VIEW

p.158-159 MaxMara silver lurex Valette top, $535, and Dallas lurex slip dress, $850, MaxMara, B.H., 310-385-9343. Cartier white gold bracelet, $44,000, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. p.160 Altuzarra gold Lotus draped tank dress, $7,100, net-a-porter. com. Repossi yellow gold Nérée earrings, price upon request, Opening Ceremony, L.A., 310-652-1120. Jennifer Fisher x Stop It Right Now brass ring, $100, jenniferfisherjewelry.com. Van Cleef & Arpels rings, see On Our Cover. p.161 Dolce & Gabanna gold dress, price upon request, select Dolce & Gabanna stores, dolcegabbana.it. Manolo Blahnik black Chaos sandals, $725, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. p.162-163 Gucci dark rust deep v-neck top, $2,400, black mesh bra, $595, and dark rust jogging pants, $1,300, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451. Jennifer Fisher x Stop It Right Now brass cuff, $250, jenniferfisher jewelry.com. p.164 Roberto Cavalli dress, price upon request, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. Jennifer Fisher necklace, see On Our Cover. p.165 Lanvin beige silver lamé top, $1,380, skirt, $1,095, and silver leather thin belt, $540, Lanvin, B.H., 310-402-0580. Manolo Blahnik sandals, see p.161. MAKEUP Dior Vibrant Color Diorblush in 756 Rose Chérie, $42, 5 Couleurs Trianon Edition eyeshadow palette, $61, Diorshow Brow Styler, $29, and Diorshow Iconic Mascara in black, $28.50, dior.com. Givenchy Rouge Interdit lipstick in 2 Beige Champagne, $30, givenchy beauty.com.

FIRST POSITION

p.166-167 Dolce & Gabbana silk dress with flowers, price upon request, select Dolce & Gabanna stores; dolcegabbana.it. Sethi Couture diamond tire ring, $1,750, and diamond stack ring, $1,875, Roseark, L.A., 310-395-6706. p.168 Balenciaga blue Bolero dress, $8,450, Carla Martinengo, 214-739-7076. Graff Diamonds multi shape diamond bracelet, price upon request,

1 at the historic former May Company building, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.; dvf.com/wrap40. •

Graff, S.F., 415-926-7000. p.169 Vera Wang black silk asymmetric sling dress over camisole slip, price upon request, Vera Wang, N.Y., 212-382-2184. De Beers bezel set diamond necklace, $25,000, South Coast Plaza, 714-641-5820; debeers. com. Capezio camisole leotard, $39.50, capezio.com. p.170 Prada embellished Natte’ bra top, $3,300, select Prada stores; prada.com. Dior long silk skirt, $2,400, 800-929-3467. Jack Vartanian white gold tennis bracelet, $29,000, Roseark, L.A., 310-395-6706. p.171 Louis Vuitton black sheer embroidered dress, price upon request, select Louis Vuitton stores; louisvuitton.com. p.172-173 Rochas silk organza dress, $4,365, shopbop.com. De Beers diamond Arpeggia necklace, $32,000, South Coast Plaza, 714-641-5820; debeers.com. p.174 Valentino beaded romper, $12,000, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Graff Diamonds bracelet, see p.168. p.175 Michael Kors chambray denim lace bandeau, $1,995, and skirt, $9,995, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. De Beers diamond Arpeggia necklace, see p.172. p.176 Jason Wu lace peplum tank dress, $2,750, net-a-porter.com. De Beers diamond Arpeggia necklace, see p.172. p.177 Monique Lhuillier blush silk top, $1,995, Monique Lhuillier, L.A., 323-655-1088. Queen Vee stinger bracelet, $1,100, Roseark, L.A., 310-395-6706. MAKEUP Chanel Vitalumière Aqua foundation in 10 Beige, $45, Les 4 Ombres Quadra Eye Shadow palette in 47 Dunes, $59, Le Crayon Khôl eyeliner in 64 Graphite, $28, Rouge Coco Hydrating Crème lip color in 40 Charme, $34, Lèvres Scintillantes Glossimer lip gloss in 87 Seashell, $29.50, and Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour powder, $57.50, chanel.com. Dr. Hauschka mascara, $25.95, store. drhauschka.

LIGHT & SPACE

p.182 Sportmax ivory satin Amico peplum dress, $1,190, Sportmax, B.H., 310-385-9343. Kendall Conrad gold plated Islero bangle, $210, Kendall Conrad, Venice, 310-399-1333. p.183 Ralph Lauren Collection white top, $1,295, select Ralph Lauren stores; ralphlauren.com. Carolina Herrera ivory linen trousers, price upon request, Carolina Herrera, L.A., 323-782-9090. Jil Sander calf leather sandals, $695, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400. p.184 Jil Sander top, $740, and skirt, $1,060, Saks Fifth Ave., B.H., 310-275-4211. Kendall Conrad gold plated brass wrap ring, $170, and Islero rings, $170 each, Kendall Conrad, Venice, 310-399-1333. p.185 Salvatore Ferragamo white knit sweater, $1,230, and white bandeau, $870, Salvatore Ferragamo, B.H., 310-273-9990. p.186-187 Chanel cotton tweed top, $2,950, and skirt, $1,900, select Chanel stores; chanel.com. p.188 Oscar de la Renta white embroidered intarsia top, $2,690, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200. p.189 3.1 Phillip Lim sweater with, $585, and flounce skirt, $1,095, 3.1 Phillip Lim, L.A., 310-358-1988. Kendall Conrad gold plated brass rings, $120 each, Kendall Conrad, Venice, 310-399-1333. p.190 T by Alexander Wang romper, $450, alexanderwang.com. Eddie Borgo cuff, $300, net-a-porter.com. Jil Sander sandals, see p.183. p.191 Tod’s leather top, $4,425, and short leather skirt, $2,575, Tod’s, B.H., 310-285-0591. Eddie Borgo bent pyramid bracelet, $355, Laura Gambucci, 858-551-0214. MAKEUP Diorskin Nude foundation in 010 Ivory, $49, Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in 609 Earth Reflection, $60, and Rouge Dior lip color in 123 Trompe L’oeil, $34, dior.com. Covergirl Trublend Mineral Blush in Shimmering Sands, $9, covergirl.com. L’Oreal Voluminous Power Volume 24H Mascara, $7.95, lorealparisusa.com.

C Magazine March 2014 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail: cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.

MARCH 2014

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california

STORY BYLINE

Imagine looking out the window of your ’50s-era dingbat rental and seeing Valentino Garavani with a gaggle of models in Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1988 gowns parading down the block. Gianni Giansanti, the unofficial photographer of Pope John Paul II (one of the few outside photographers whom the Vatican trusted), was there to capture the unusual scene. It was a very Hollywood moment for the designer—and really, most Angelenos are used to passing roadside photo shoots and pop-up movie sets. Twenty years later, Garavani would be the star of his own film (Valentino: The Last Emperor), which was a hit at the box office—who could forget the divo moments: fashion shows, private planes and an entourage of pugs? The legendary designer, now in his 80s, looks back fondly: “We were in sunny Los Angeles with beautiful girls and glamorous dresses. I loved it!” PHOTOGRAPH BY GIANNI GIANSANTI

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TEXT BY KELSEY McKINNON

GIANNI GIANSANTI, CONDÉ NAST ARCHIVE/CORBIS IMAGES

VALENTINO GARAVANI AND MODELS, HOLLYWOOD, 1988

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